The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future
Time+TideIn 2017, Rado decided to bring back their 1960s classic, the Captain Cook diver. Sparking positive reactions from the watch media, while making a strong connection with many a vintage watch lover’s heart, it became an instant success. Subsequently, Rado has refused to rest on their laurels by continuously evolving the line. We have seen more sizes introduced, the addition of a contemporary bracelet and a bevy of fresh new colours. But this year, the brand has taken its “Master of Materials” moniker to heart with the release of the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic to show the design in a whole new light. In the process, Rado has returned to its signature material, taking full advantage of the scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic properties of high-tech ceramic.
The Case
The Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic sub-collection has two distinct cases. Three of the four references (R32127152, R32127156, R32127162) are predominantly black ceramic matte while the remaining reference (R32128202) is a predominantly grey ceramic matte. In hand, you quickly realise how Rado makes perfect use of contrast between these matte finishes and the polished surfaces on the watch. More specifically, the polished surfaces outline the most significant parts of the watch; the hands, indices, bezel and screw-down crown.
In terms of colour, two of the four references, R32127152 and R32127156, have a black and white colour way, differing only in the strap or bracelet provided. R32127162 is a mixture of black, gold and white. R32128202 is grey, blue and white.
All four cases come in at 43mm with a thickness of 14.6 mm . Don’t let that thickness deter you as the curvature of the lugs, 50mm lug-to-lug and the boxed sapphire crystal make the watch wear smaller. Furthermore, the 43mm width for a diver still constitutes a reasonable size for such a purpose-built tool watch. When you take into account this case is a sapphire sandwich (all references have a sapphire smokey dark gray caseback) design, while still providing 300 metres of water-resistance, the size becomes an understandable aspect of the watch.
The Dial
One of the most noticeable design elements of the watch is that the dials of the new Rado Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic sub-collection are made of sapphire crystal. The crystal has the same smoky dark grey appearance as the caseback. The hands remain the same classic arrowhead and sword, a mainstay of the Captain Cook collection. Rado were even able to still give us the rotating anchor at twelve.
The applied indices that we were first graced with on the Bronze Captain Cooks continue here, with Rado creating a non sapphire rim, just below the minute track, on which they are placed. This has the added benefit of creating multiple layers and a greater sense of depth.
One thing that you may not immediately notice; and is a first for the Captain Cook collection, is the lack of a date. Regardless of the reasoning behind this, it creates a difference that highlights the importance Rado is placing on this sub-collection and that it stands above the rest of their captain cook offerings. Moreover, with no date wheel impeding your view, the movement inside is on full display. As for that movement…
The Movement
Rado decided to place their R734 movement inside. This is a Powermatic 80 based movement with 80 hours of power reserve and a Nivachron hairspring. The Nivachron is made of silicone and helps protect the watch from the negative timekeeping effects of magnetic fields.
Rado takes further steps by also skeletonising the movement. This allows you to get a great view of the inner workings, such as the mainspring, which you can now see slowly unwinding. The R734 is finished with Cotes De Geneve on the rotor and mainplate when viewed through the caseback. When viewed through the dial, perlage is used instead.
As stated earlier, the watch has no date, with the R734 being a true no date movement. Pull the crown out and you go straight to time setting. No ghost positions here.
The Bracelet
The bracelet on the Rado Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic comes in three flavours; a black ceramic (on R32127152 and R32127162), a grey ceramic (on R32128202) and a rubber strap (on R32127152). The ceramic bracelets are three pieces across, with polished centre links being flanked on either sides by matte links, a continuance of the masterclass in contrast. They measure 21mm at the case, with a taper down to 19mm at the double-folding clasp predominantly made of titanium.
The rubber strap marks another first for the collection as we have yet to see proprietary rubber on a Captain Cook. There is a nice fit at the lugs and the unvulcanized natural rubber has a comfortable feel on the skin. The choice of natural rubber aids towards little to no lint build up. Here, you’ll find the taper is smaller; only 21mm to 20mm.
Within the clasp, (which is made of titanium, stainless steel and ceramic), you’ll find a small yet ingenious feature. One of the folding pieces contains an extension tube. When sizing the strap for that tight fit, this allows the strap to easily expand around your hand before getting to your wrist.
The Verdict
Rado has become synonymous with ceramic and it was only a matter of time before the Captain Cook line received this treatment. Yet, what Rado has presented here isn’t just an obvious progression. This is a cornerstone piece in a marquee collection; the sum of multiple advancements all placed within one watch. It’s akin to the concept car that stands as a testament to what a brand can really do. As the “Master of Materials”, Rado is living up to its name.
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection price and availability:
The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection is $5,750AUD in black, $5,925AUD with rose gold highlights and $6,075AUD in blue with matte plasma finishing. For more details, visit Rado right here.
Made in partnership with Rado. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.