Celebrating complication with 12 of the most complicated watches of all time

Borna Bošnjak

Being a watch fan, chances are you would’ve been asked at some point why relying on your phone for time isn’t enough. And chances are also you already had a witty remark or rant you’ve been practicing in the shower ready to go – though I hope I’m not projecting too much… In any case, we certainly know that mechanical watches are much more than that, even though the technology they’re based on is several centuries old. Ultra-complicated mechanical watches are the best examples of this. While it does seem like we’re increasingly heading in the direction of digital alternatives, there are still some bastions of gears and bearings left fighting the good fight – and these are the best of the best.

Piguet, Muller, Gerber Superbia Humanitatis – 20 complications

As any great artist or engineer may tell you, some creations are rarely absolutely finished. This is certainly the case for the Superbia Humanitatis, which has quite a story. It’s a 130-plus-year-old watch, which has spent most of its lifespan under constant modification, with rigorous devotion from two Swiss master watchmakers. The Superbia Humanitatis, or “Pride of Mankind”, began as one of three pocket watches created by Louis-Elysée Piguet in the late 1800s. Even at that point, it was no slouch when it came to complications, boasting 491 components, a minute repeater, petite et grande sonnerie, and a silence function, though it all but disappeared for around a century. Resurfacing at Basel in 1992, the watch had undergone its first transformation at the skilled hands of Franck Muller, whose name adorns the dial to this day. Muller added a perpetual calendar, moon phase, equation of time, GMT function and a thermometer (because of course he did) to the original movement, upping the part count to a heady 651. The watch was also re-cased in a 39mm platinum case, and treated to an engine-turned silver dial.

The owner of the watch, a collector by the name of Willy Ernst Sturzenegger, decided that this wasn’t quite enough, and contacted Zürich-based Paul Gerber, the only watchmaker prepared to carry out his wild ideas. Preserving the watch’s proportions, escapement and tone of the sonnerie strike, Gerber was tasked with adding a flying tourbillon mechanism, a project which took a further three years, and an additional 121 components, bringing the running total to 772. Sturzenegger had more challenges for Gerber, deciding that the watch also needed a chronograph function (naturally), and so Gerber took on the task, adding a deadbeat-seconds chronograph mechanism, bringing the total number of components to a hefty 1,116, earning it a Guinness World Record in 2005 for the most complicated watch in terms of parts quantity. Shortly after, the watch was sold, and the new owner decided it still wasn’t good enough and had poor Gerber disassemble the movement and review the finish of every single component. Paul Gerber spent 23 years of his life working on this watch, all in all, and has certainly seen more man-hours than possibly the rest of this list combined. It makes for a pretty remarkable story.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime – 20 complications

Patek Philippe is widely regarded as one of (if not the) greatest watch brands around, and is responsible for some of the most complicated and prestigious creations in all of horology. For their 175th birthday in 2014, the Swiss giants announced the remarkable Grandmaster Chime ref. 5175: a commemorative piece, consisting of only seven watches, of which it’s been said to take Patek Philippe over 100,000 hours to produce. Its 47.4mm gold case is ornately decorated to levels rarely seen on anything, let alone a wristwatch, and is enough to make the crown jewels look understated. The watch is so complicated that it needs two dials to display everything neatly, so Patek Philippe decided to work in a swivelling case, allowing you to enjoy both sides of the watch while it’s on the wrist. The exuberance doesn’t just cover the outside, oh no – inside the watch lives the incredible Calibre 300, a hand-wound movement consisting of no less than 20 complications and 1,366 individual components. Listing everything this watch can do seems relatively pointless, as it can do practically everything (and yet this is by no means the most complicated watch on this list) – tell the time, chime the time, chime the date, indicate multiple power reserves, time zones and moon phases – the list goes on. I can’t wait to see what they bring for their 185th, because they’ve got quite a mountain to climb after the Cubitus…

Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication – 23 complications

The fact that most of the watches you’ll see on this list are already some years old is as good of a proof as any that brands have slowly moved away from the ultra-complicated and imposing to the design-driven. The Celestia Astronomical, however, could easily fit into a current Vacheron Constantin collection – maybe a new, all-platinum Traditionnelle variant? When it comes to wristwatches, it’s still the most complicated in terms of the number of complications that the brand has produced, focusing its additional features on astronomical indications. Alongside “pedestrian” complications like a tourbillon, it has a mareograph, tropical and civil year indicator, sunrise and sunset times, quation of time, sidereal time... Despite all that, it manages a 13.6mm thickness and 45mm diameter, which is all due to the phenomenal Calibre 3600. The movement itself measures just 36mm across and 8.7mm in height, but most impressive of all is its three-week power reserve thanks to six barrels. This means you don’t have to worry about constantly winding the watch, and it’s just another show of force by Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers boffins. Not to spoil the rest of this list, but let’s just say that this isn’t the last Vacheron Constantin you’ll see.

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 – 23 complications

I sometimes see questions about why Audemars Piguet deserves to be in the watchmaking Holy Trinity, because (to the passing enthusiast at least) they just make different variations of the Royal Oak, right? Wrong. AP’s latest research and development watch boasts a total of 23 complications incorporated into the new AP Calibre 1000 movement – a self-winding, split-second chronograph, which features a perpetual calendar and flying tourbillon just for starters. Impressively squeezing 1,155 components into a 42×15.5mm Code 11.59 case, the RD#4 has taken seven years to develop, introducing a minute repeater with grande et petite sonnerie with silent modes, with all 40 functions of the watch operated through the three self-positioning crowns. Produced in four variations, including black or beige dials, or the more technically appealing open-worked white gold or pink gold versions, the RD#4 is certainly a contemporary piece that’s not looking to compete (at least visually) with similarly complicated, traditional-looking alternatives from Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin. It’s clear that the RD#4 isn’t in any way a mass-produced commercial venture for AP, but rather a reminder that they are indeed one of the best watchmakers in the world, their work honoured with the Aiguille d’Or at the 2023 edition of the GPHG.

Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication – 24 complications

In the late 1920s, it’s rumoured that a silent battle between two exceedingly wealthy watch collectors raged. Automobile tycoon James Ward Packard had commissioned a particularly complicated watch to be made – however, viciously wealthy banker Henry Graves Jr. had other ideas, and commissioned Patek Philippe to create the most complicated watch ever. He overcame his rival in 1933 when he received the Henry Graves Supercomplication. Consisting of 24 complications made up of 920 individual parts and encased in a whopping, 74mm-wide gold case, the watch weighs over half a kilogram and is technically still referred to as a pocket watch, despite requiring deep pockets in every sense of the word. The featured complications include a perpetual calendar, moon phase, twin chronographs, sunrise and sunset indicators, Westminster chimes, two faces, and a full celestial chart of the sky as viewed from New York City – just to name a few. Only one was ever made, and for many years it was considered the most complicated watch ever made. Since Graves’ death, the watch has changed hands four times, last sold at Sotheby’s for a record-smashing US$24,000,000 in 2014.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica 55 Grande Sonnerie – 26 complications

If you’re looking for an ultra-complicated Jaeger-LeCoultre, look no further than the Hybris Mechanica collection, though looking at that collection today won’t reveal the most complicated member of this family ever made. That honour goes to the Hybris Mechanica 55 Grande Sonnerie, the crown jewel of a trio of watches presented back in 2009. With 26 complications, the Grande Sonnerie housed a three-chime Westminster mechanism and repeater alongside a perpetual calendar with retrograde functions and a tourbillon, developed by now-independent David Candaux. Priced at US$2.5 million, the trio was comprised of the Gyrotourbillon, Reverso Triptyque, and the Grande Sonnerie, their total complication count of 55 giving the collection a name, all fitted into a huge, custom-made safe. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

Honourable mention: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque – 11 complications

There’s something so effortlessly cool about the Reverso. In production since 1931 and unchanged in core design, it’s now a staple in the Jaeger-LeCoultre catalogue, and the brand wouldn’t be the same without it. That’s not to say that JLC are only known for the Reverso, because as it happens, they also know a thing or two about making movements. In 2021, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 was unveiled, the world’s first four-sided watch, combining high-end complications and the classic, rectangular, and flippable Reverso. 11 complications have been packed into a larger version of the Reverso case, which I think we can forgive them for, with functions displayed on the usual twin dials we might see on a Reverso Duoface – but it doesn’t end there. JLC also utilised the additional real estate provided by the cradle of the main outer case. Using a secondary gear train, the case cradle itself hosts the synodic, anomalistic, and draconic lunar cycles in full display, along with a further moon phase portion on the caseback. That’s just the things you won’t see all that often. Up front, we have a flying tourbillon and perpetual calendar display, and on the second dial, there’s a minute repeater. It doesn’t quite reach the 26 complications of its predecessor, but then again, there’s something to be said about how these are counted. It’s certainly worth a mention in our books.

Patek Philippe Calibre 89 – 33 complications

Not content with creating other extremely complicated pocket watches, to mark their 150th anniversary in 1989, Patek Philippe introduced their latest record breaker, the Calibre 89. This time, the Swiss maison had managed to bring together 1,728 individual components to produce a total of 33 complications in a solid gold case weighing a staggering 1.1 kilograms. Just when you thought there were no other functions to be crammed in a watch, Patek succeeded in including all manner of obscurities such as a barometer, altimeter, thermometer and lunar orbit tracks, along with the usual grand comp suspects. Only four were made, one in each of Patek Philippe’s signature precious metals: white, pink, and yellow gold as well as platinum. Boasting so much precious metal along with so many functions would surely command an epic sale price at auction – however, despite being offered at multiple auctions in the last decade, one hasn’t met a reserve price since a 2009 Antiquorum sale. Perhaps one day one will, and with it, take another record.

Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega 5 – 36 complications

The Aeternitas Mega 5 is a fully-fledged FM piece, their most complicated from the catalogue. With an incredible 36 complications and 1,483 components, it compete with pocket watches. Franck Muller has managed to somehow fit 21 hands on the tonneau-cased dial to display pretty much every complication you can possibly think of, including four hammers and chimes squeezed in to operate the carillon Westminster chime. If you’re lucky enough to be able to afford this staggering timepiece, make sure you keep it on a winder, because resetting it would be a unique challenge.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – 41 complications

For the second year in a row, Vacheron Constantin is unveiling an ultra-complicated piece, this time taking the record for the most complicated wristwatch in the world. The Solaria Ultra Grand Complication houses 41 complications, its main focus being astronomical ones, with a celestial vault etched into the sapphire caseback. Combine it with the split-seconds chronograph, and you’ll be able to determine when a celestial object will appear right above your head. This is of course in addition to repeating mechanisms, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon, more than justifying its ultra grand comp moniker. This also means that Vacheron officially takes all three podium positions for the most complicated watches, which is no small feat. Price: on request, each piece will be uniquely customised for the owner

Vacheron Constantin ref. 57260 – 57 complications

Unveiled in 2015, the Vacheron Constantin ref. 57260 is a double-dialled horological masterpiece. It took three master watchmakers a total of eight years to complete, exhibiting a total of 57 complications. Some of the most impressive among them are the double-retrograde rattrapante chronograph, which until this watch was created, had never previously existed, allowing for two separate times to be precisely measured within any given minute. Constructed in 18k white gold, the 98mm “pocket watch” weighs a remarkable 957 grams. Considering there are 2,826 parts, however, it’s hardly a surprise. The hand count totals 31 spread across the two dials, each placed with the utmost accuracy so as not to look too crazy, if that’s even a serious consideration with a watch like this. The watch necessitated Vacheron Constantin filing 12 patents during its creation, while also employing some VC classics, like the tourbillon outlining a Maltese cross every 15 seconds. For nine years, the ref. 57260 held the record as the most complicated watch, only to be dethroned by the next watch on this list

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Berkley Grand Complication – 63 complications

Here it is. Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Berkley Grand Complication not only took the title of the most complicated watch ever made, but it also solved a horological conundrum that had been a challenge to numerous watchmakers in the past. For some time now, we’ve seen all sorts of self-correcting Gregorian calendar mechanisms, from the annual, to the perpetual, and most accurately, the secular. We’ve also seen watches apply this to the Islamic Hijri calendar, but the challenge of a Chinese perpetual calendar remained uncompleted until the Berkley came around. I had the pleasure of having none other than VC’s Heritage Director Christian Selmoni attempt to explain the process of calculating this calendar in perpetuity, his “in a nutshell” breakdown taking the best part of our hour-long meeting in Geneva last year.

In addition to this breakthrough, the Berkley also features nine astronomical indications, the same split-seconds chronograph of the ref. 57260, a grande sonnerie, and alarms, for a total of 2,877 components across four calibre plates, a total weight of 980 grams thanks to an 18k white gold case. The most curious thing of all? The Berkley was commissioned by William R. Berkley, a sort of modern Henry Graves of sorts, who also ordered the 57260 at the same time but had to wait for Vacheron Constantin to figure out the Chinese perpetual calendar challenge. Imagine commissioning the world’s most complicated watch and then commissioning another watch to one-up it – from the same watchmaker – whilst both are being made. Absurd stuff.

All 63 complications of the Berkley Grand Complication, because why not?

Time measurement (9)

1. Regulator-type hours, minutes and seconds for mean solar time
2. Retrograde second for mean solar time
3. Day and night indication for reference city
4. Visible spherical armillary tourbillon regulator with spherical balance spring
5. Armillary sphere tourbillon
6. World time indication for 24 cities
7. Second time zone hours and minutes (on 12 hours display)
8. Second time zone day and night indication
9. System to display the second time zone for the Northern or Southern hemispheres

Gregorian Perpetual Calendar (7)

10. Gregorian perpetual calendar
11. Gregorian days of the week
12. Gregorian months
13. Gregorian retrograde date
14. Leap-year indication and four-year cycle
15. Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar)
16. Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar)

Chinese Perpetual Calendar (11)

17. Chinese perpetual calendar
18. Chinese number of the day
19. Chinese name of the month
20. Chinese date indication
21. Chinese zodiac signs
22. 5 elements and 10 celestial stems
23. 12 earthly branches
24. Chinese year state (common or embolismic)
25. Month state (small or large)
26. Indication for the Golden number within the 19-year Metonic cycle
27. Indication for the date of the Chinese New Year in the Gregorian calendar

Chinese Agricultural Perpetual Calendar (2)

28. Chinese agricultural perpetual calendar
29. Indications of seasons, equinoxes and solstices with solar hand

Astronomical Indications (9)

30. Sky chart (calibrated for Shanghai)
31. Sidereal hours
32. Sidereal minutes
33. Sunrise time (calibrated for Shanghai)
34. Sunset time (calibrated for Shanghai)
35. Equation of time
36. Length of the day (calibrated for Shanghai)
37. Length of the night (calibrated for Shanghai)
38. Phases and age of the moon, one correction every 1027 years

Split-seconds Chronograph (4)

39. Fifths of a second chronograph (1 column wheel)
40. Fifths of a second split-second chronograph (1 column wheel)
41. 12-hour counter (1 column wheel)
42. 60-minute counter

Alarm (7)

43. Progressive alarm with single gong and hammer striking
44. Alarm strike / silence indicator
45. Choice of normal alarm or carillon striking alarm indicator
46. Alarm mechanism coupled to the carillon striking mechanism
47. Alarm striking with choice of grande or petite sonnerie
48. Alarm power-reserve indication
49. System to disengage the alarm barrel when fully wound

Westminster Carillon (8)

50. Carillon Westminster chiming with 5 gongs and 5 hammers
51. Grande sonnerie passing strike
52. Petite sonnerie passing strike
53. Minute repeating
54. Night silence feature (between 22.00 and 08.00 hours – hours chosen by the owner)
55. System to disengage the striking barrel when fully wound
56. Indication for grande or petite sonnerie modes
57. Indication for silence / striking / night modes

Additional features (6)

58. Power-reserve indication for the going train
59. Power-reserve indication for the striking train
60. Winding crown position indicator
61. Winding system for the double barrels
62. Hand-setting system with two positions and two directions
63. Concealed flush-fit winding crown for the alarm mechanism