7 of the best big watches giving big luxury
Tom AustinThrough the last 20 years or so, we’ve seen wristwatch trends come and go, and one rather prominent one at the turn of the century was big watches. You know the kind, kicked off in part by hip-hop music videos filled with gigantic iced-out Jacob & Co Five Time Zones, all 47mm of them, and very much in-your-face. Through the 2000s, the trend stretched further, with Panerai interest at a fever pitch. Luckily, as time has moved on, our appetite for larger watches has somewhat subsided, however, this has led to another problem. What if you have wrists that are comparable to tree trunks? While many people will tell you “Wear what you like, size doesn’t matter!”, I can assure you, I’ve struggled with smaller watches in the past – it matters.
It’s frustrating because there are so many watches that the larger-wristed among us would truly love to enjoy. A Cartier Tank, or even in some cases, a 36mm sports watch, just doesn’t work. So what choice do we have? Fortunately, there are some very cool big watches out there, usually measuring 42mm and over, and you don’t have to go back to 2003 to find them – just read this guide.
Casio G-Shock GA-2000S-1AER
If you have arms like Rambo and often find yourself deep behind enemy lines, engaging in a one-man assault to save humanity, or, at least fancy yourself as doing that, then no other watch is up to that job than a G-Shock. In fact, if you look on the wrist of most muscle-bound commandos not only on the big screen but in real life, and you’ll find one of Casio’s finest shock-resistant watches on their wrist. Often chosen for their hard-wearing nature and resilience, G-Shocks on big wrists just give off that hard-as-nails appearance – even if you’re a big softy.
Our choice is the G-Shock GA-2000S-1AER, and while you wouldn’t describe it as a pretty watch, it’s not meant to be. It’s a typical G-Shock design through and through, tough and unapologetic in its wrist presence. At 51.2mm in diameter, it’s one of the largest watches on this list, but this particular G-Shock is circular, which is somewhat unusual for the brand, and tones down its appearance a little, which isn’t a terrible thing. Inside features Casio’s successful Carbon Core Guard technology, ensuring the watch maintains its high levels of shock resistance while remaining lightweight and easy to wear. The watch is packed full of features, too, such as 5 daily alarms, a date and weekday display, a world time function, a countdown timer, and much more. Finishing the watch is a hefty rubber strap, which offers a premium look and feel to this model. The watch is available in monochrome black and white, not-so-subtle black and yellow, olive green and finally, a camo dial variation for when you really need to go into the jungle. As usual, this G-Shock offers tough looks that are easy on the wallet. Price: US$150
Seiko SNJ025 “Arnie”
There are plenty of watches out there that bear nicknames from the actors who wore them in movies, but not many of those actors manage to make a 47.8mm watch look almost small. The Seiko SNJ025 “Arnie” shares its nickname with the ref. H558-5009 it’s iterated on, with that watch featured on the wrist of muscle-bound, 22-inch-armed Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1985 cult classic Commando. Somehow, Arnold managed to make the gargantuan watch look perfect on screen, but in real life, the watch is actually a smash hit, too.
It’s unapologetically large, at 47.8mm wide and almost 14mm thick, it’s not a watch designed to fit under any cuffs any time soon. But that’s the point, it’s a tool watch designed for action, and has the features to back that up, including a solar-powered quartz movement, displaying analogue time and a supporting LCD screen, locking pushers that operate a chronograph function and much more, along with a water resistance of 200 meters. The case can take a battering, too, made from stainless steel, encased in plastic to give it that go everywhere, do everything ability. While you may not be John Matrix called in for one last mission, the SNJ025 is a capable and aggressive tool watch that will not let you down. Price: US$525
Panerai Luminor Marina
As clichéd as it may be, this list would not be complete without a Panerai on it. Through the 2000s, Panerai carved the way forward when it came to big watches. The likes of Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger and Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson showed everyone that a Panerai was cool to wear for those with 18-inch arms and huge wrists. Styles have changed in more recent times, with smaller watches being more favourable. However, Panerai have stuck to their guns and made sure the monstrous guns on their customers have great watches to put on them.
The Panerai Luminor Marina is a classic, hand-wound mechanical watch featuring the indicative oversized hour markers on the matte black dial, cushion case shape and trademarked crown protector. In polished 316L stainless steel, the hefty case comes in at 47mm, and is fitted to a luxuriously chunky dark brown leather strap. Finally, the watch is finished with a bubble-shaped domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire exhibition case back, completing that classic look. The Panerai is a classic-looking piece, which offers vintage style for the larger wristed wearer, and that’s quite a rare thing to find, with most vintage-inspired watches coming in much smaller proportions these days. At 47mm it would seem like the watch is massive, but its distinctive cushion shape calms that down a little, and makes it more of a subtle, dressier wear for larger wrists. Price: US$11,300
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch
Big by name and big by nature, the IWC Big Pilot is a 43mm military aviator’s watch with a huge character to match its size. The Big Pilot’s story begins in 1940, when IWC first made timepieces for military navigators, producing oversized B-Uhr flieger watches with pocket watch movements and distinctive, cockpit-style dials. In 2002, IWC launched an official successor to the famous aviator’s watch, which became the IWC Big Pilot. The latest watch features a generous 43mm steel case (which is nevertheless smaller than the 47mm models that previously dominated the range), wrapped around one of the most legible dials in the business. Large lumed hour markers circulate the dial, with massive sword hands, giving it the perfect pilot’s watch look.
Another distinguishing feature carried over from the originals is the oversized onion crown, designed to allow pilots to operate it easily when wearing gloves. At 13.6mm thick, it’s surprisingly easy to wear, especially seeing as dials like this tend to make a watch look bigger than it is, but this isn’t the case. The Big Pilot is actually a fairly comfortable wear, and of course lends itself well to being worn on larger wrists, especially with the studded calfskin strap. I don’t fly a plane, and I’d hazard a guess that most of you reading don’t either, however, pilot’s watches play a big part in the watch world, and the IWC Big Pilot is one of the best you can buy, even more so if you’ve got a big wrist to put it on. Price: starting from US$12,500
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge
Big missions mean big tools, and if you’re going to the bottom of the ocean, you’re going to need something that can do it. Rolex has a history of pushing the limits with water resistance, with the brand’s rise to fame starting with the Oyster, the first water-resistant watch to make it across the English Channel, attached to the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to make it across unaided in 1927. Things for Rolex have come a few steps on now, with the brand producing watches that boast some of the strongest water resistance levels on the market – indeed, this timepiece holds the record for the most water-resistant commercially available watch on the market.
Unlike its smaller sibling, the Deepsea, the Deepsea Challenge cannot be confused with a Submariner. While all the distinctive Submariner traits are present, such as the black ceramic diving bezel, highly legible dial layout, and Mercedes hands, the one big giveaway that this is something very different is its size. At 50mm wide and 23mm thick, the proportions are almost comical, pushing the limits not only as the largest watch Rolex has ever made but also as their first in their proprietary RLX titanium material. This is all necessary, however, allowing the watch to withstand around 16,00 psi of pressure at 11,000m below sea level, which is mightily impressive. You’ll also need some impressively large wrists to pull this one off, but if you love big watches, this is probably the pinnacle of brutish refinement. The Deepsea Challenge is a humungous watch, but still a true Rolex with all of its attention to detail intact. If you can get a hold of one, the Deepsea Challenge is an excellent execution of burly robustness, matched with heritage and refinement, and of course, ideal for the larger wristed wearer. Price: US$27,300
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
Two decades after the famous Royal Oak had arrived in the Audemars Piguet catalogue, AP needed something fresh. It might be hard to believe today, but in the late 1980s, AP was going through somewhat of a crisis, where its image only seemed to be appealing to the older collector, and the younger crowd was in search of something different. AP’s designer Emmanuel Gueit came to the rescue in 1989 by presenting a conceptual sketch of the Offshore, in all technicality a beefed-up Royal Oak on steroids.
Finally, in 1993, following some pretty damning criticism from the Royal Oak designer Gérald Genta, the AP Royal Oak Offshore was released. Nicknamed “The Beast” due to its weight and Hulk-like proportions, the Offshore was divisive but ultimately a hit, and indeed drew in that younger audience. Fast-forward thirty years, the Offshore we have today is available in endless configurations, from a simple 42mm three-handed diver or a 43mm chronograph to the whopping 44mm ceramic grand comp. The watch is thick, robust, angular, and aggressive, with notable wearers including the likes of Schwarzenegger, The Rock, and LeBron James – none exactly diminutive. Our pick for everyday wear would be the Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26420TI, a titanium beast of a watch, featuring a blue “Méga Tapisserie” dial and interchangeable rubber strap in matching blue, or its stealthier black ceramic chronograph counterpart, similar to Arnie’s. Price: US$46,600 (titanium), US$86,900 (ceramic)
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium
So what do you get if you want something big, but different? You get a Hublot. Hublot is no stranger when it comes to watches with wrist presence; most of their catalogue leans towards the larger side of things, and there are not many of them that you would describe as subtle. If you want a watch that explores the next levels of technical watchmaking, along with exotic materials and design, then the Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium will hit the mark. The Hublot MP collection is where the brand truly lets its hair down, experimenting with new materials, case designs and movement architecture, and with the MP-10 it’s no different.
Featuring a 54.1mm x 41.5mm titanium case, the MP-10’s design incorporates the curved edges of the sapphire crystal to make it look like the crystal is a structural component of the case, finishing off with a large winding crown at 12 o’clock. Inside the watch is where it gets really interesting, with rotating barrels to display the hours, minutes and power reserve, and sliding blocks of white gold to wind the 35-degree inclined tourbillon movement. It’s an exercise in Hublot’s ability to be ridiculous in the best way possible, but also ingenious, and offers something extremely special for those with wrists big enough to pull it off. Price: US$230,000