From the Time+Tide Team

Time+Tide

Posts by Time+Tide:

03.07.2020

Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics)

Editor's note: It doesn't happen very often, but sometimes you can have your cake and eat it too. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is one such occasion, where packed into an ultra-thin, ultra-modern watch, you get the two most practical complications a wristwatch can offer. A GMT and a chronograph. That's right, in this angular meeting of form and function you get two complications that are rarely seen together, but are integrated here remarkably well. Let me say this plainly from the outset. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is just so impressive. Not only is it…

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27.06.2020

VIDEO: Don't take Montblanc seriously as a watch brand? You might want to check out two of the 2020 models

Montblanc have been building their watch credentials over the last few years under the steady hand of Davide Cerrato, the Managing Director of Watches since 2015. With three distinct collections under his influence — the 1858, Heritage and Star Legacy — Montblanc watches have gone from strength to strength over the last half-decade, with 2020 being a particularly strong collection. Here we break down a few of the highlights from this most recent collection, taking a closer look at how each piece within the collection has developed over the last few years, and how that journey has impacted the watches we…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

16.06.2020

The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Editor's note: Every great product has a genesis, and for this Italian-founded watch and jewellery firm it is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic. It was the one that started it all back in 2017, leaving eyes wide open with its sharply faceted design and ultra-thin construction. In the years following, we have seen the same spirit expressed in gold, skeletonised, as a chronograph, in ceramic and most recently in gleaming steel, showing the versatility that comes with such strong design. With all of this progress, it's important to keep the original front of mind, so let's take another look at…

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12.06.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5 reasons to watch the last Basel Video, inc. blowing the lid off the Breitling Party

It's Friday, and usually that means a message from me regarding all the great things that happened during the week. But today, in addition to that, which is captured in the top four stories to check out below, I want to look forward. To tomorrow. Because at midday Australian time, and 7pm LA and 10pm NYC (sorry for the middle of the night drop, Europe; maybe the clubbers will like it!), we're going to Baselworld one last time. It's part 3 of the Home Delivery Watch Fair, Basel Edition and, boy, are we finishing it with a blast. Here are…

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09.06.2020

IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai 'Save The Ocean' SRPC93K

Editor's note: The Seiko Samurai 'Save The Ocean' feels like it's been around forever. It probably has claims, as much as practically any other modern watch, and certainly on any other diver, on being something of a modern icon with its striking 'ventral pleats' horizontally striping the dial, and its top to bottom blue graduation designed to emulate the ocean. It has seen many variations on a theme that is perfectly set out with the SRPC93K. This was first published midway through 2018, and boy, does it look as good as ever two years later. The story in a second: Same great…

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Tan vintage leather watch strap, Bremont

29.05.2020

The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why …

Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but since its inception, founders and brothers Nick and Giles English have made sure that the hard-charging British watchmaker has been at the forefront of not only innovation but also military collaboration and integration. In fact, you can find a Bremont strapped to the wrist of a great many servicemen and women across the globe, and there's a very good reason for this – the British watches offer a great level of robustness and tool watch real-life functionality that borders on being unparalleled in the horological industry. For this reason, Time+Tide is proud…

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Grand Seiko dial

28.05.2020

BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever Grand Seiko dial (and, guess what, no Snowflakes)

Editor's note: If you're wondering, Battle Royale is a relatively new segment where someone in the team nominates a collection or, in this case, a category – Grand Seiko dials – and we figuratively fight to the death for our favourite from said group until there is one opinion standing. Well, not really. That would be bloody, time-consuming, fairly hard to adjudicate and likely to upset HR. So, why don't we just make our case for our pick, and then try to eviscerate each other's (clearly poor) choices in comments? OK. We have news. We may be officially entering a…

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300

23.05.2020

Why the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300 might be the only watch you ever need

Editor's note: There comes a point in every collector's journey where they wish, even if only for a moment, that they had only one watch. That all of their learning, discussing, buying and selling in the world of horology could be focused into a single piece that they could wear every day for the rest of their life. Never again would they hesitate in the morning as they decide what to wear that day, and never again would they wonder where part of their collection was. For many, that watch could be the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300. The…

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22.05.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrating the week we helped Zenith launch the final El Primero 50th Anniversary Edition and Billie Eilish's baller new watch

It's Friday, it's knockoff, and it's a beading glass of vodka and dry ginger I have at my left hand. What a week! Most of it was dominated by the Mission: Possible attempt to film a feature-length special on a Sunday and then publish it at 3am Australian time on Thursday morning. It was ambitious. We were sleepless in Seattle. But it was an honour. The El Primero is among the truly legendary achievements in the pantheon of watchmaking, both as a movement and as a watch. If, like the many new people in my inbox over the last couple of…

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Seikos from Basel

16.05.2020

Revisiting 6 key watches from Seiko's 2019 collection, how do they hold up a year on?

Editor's note: On the brink of bringing you some of Seiko's new novelties via our second 'Home Delivery Watch Fair – Basel Edition' over on YouTube, we cast our mind back to two things. Firstly, the 2019 collection, which is captured here in a video, and in the pics below. What stood out to me was how each of these watches has had major line extensions in 2020. The point was made in this article that Seiko is increasingly codifying its collections year on year. There is ongoing proof of that, as just about every era and style presented here now has…

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15.05.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hemsworth's wrist in Extraction proves that the world's biggest bad-asses wear…

As the world begins to re-emerge from lockdown, so does our awareness of the days. Where in past weeks, Friday has come and gone in a haze of homeschooling and housebound weekends that blur into weekdays, suddenly there's an ever-so-slight sense of TGIF. And that's a pretty sweet feeling for us. So, as we do return to a new normal, blinking in the glare of office lights after so many work from home days, and having to remember to top up long expired public transport cards, the question is: what kind of world are we returning to? We can say,…

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06.05.2020

Hublot, you've come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years

One fact that seems to have been roundly overlooked in recent years is the slow, steady, but really quite emphatic, elevation in Hublot's yearly releases. In terms of technical complexity, case design and overall finishing. The Hublot of 2020 is not the brand that Jean-Claude Biver re-introduced to the world 15 years ago with the Big Bang. The Big Bang took the original spirit of Hublot's previous designs – the rubber strap, exposed bezel screws and "ears" on the case sides – and blew them up in a 44.5mm case, capitalising on the trend of large watches at the time.…

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29.04.2020

Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado

When it comes to big days, they don't come much more memorable or special than your wedding day, especially now, when it seems like every wedding has its own hashtag or custom location check-in. So it's only natural that you'd want to ensure every inch – from top to wrist – is looking its finest. When we think of well-suited weddings, we think Mr Carl Navè, a Melbourne-based tailor who sees plenty of grooms at his Bourke Street showroom. We sat down with Mr Navè to get the lowdown on where men's matrimonial style is at right now. Time+Tide: Are…

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IWC 2020 Portugieser collection

27.04.2020

IWC's 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power

Credit where credit is due. There may well be global turmoil the likes of which we've never seen before, but IWC has taken all in their stride and released a brace of new watches in 2020 that are set to stun. Though quietly, and with the kind of confidence that doesn't require theatrics. It is, overall, a formidable display of power. And, in a fashion similar to what we've seen in previous years, the Schaffhausen outfit has singled out an entire model range for a complete makeover – 2020 is all about the Portugieser. Last year it was the watchmaker's…

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15.04.2020

How did Baselworld die? What happened? We created a timeline of events, and it's basically the plot of 'Marriage Story'

Do you remember the feeling of watching Marriage Story? The way that, despite the flashes of intimacy and connection between Adam Driver and Scarlett Johansson, you just knew the two characters were doomed, and that it was all going to descend to a scene where Adam Driver is singing drunkenly in a bar. Well, that's what watching this Baselworld saga has been like to report on. It doesn't matter who is who, they both – Baselworld and the watch brands – ain't going to end up with each other. That's all that matters. And now we have our Adam Driver…

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11.04.2020

A short history of DOXA, the brand that was almost lost to history

The dusty shelves of antique stores and less-trafficked avenues of eBay are full of watch brands whose glory days are well behind them. DOXA, who date their history back to 1889, was almost one of those brands. But thankfully, the name persevered, and DOXA is still with us today, and the brand's future looks bright – almost as bright as their famous orange dials. The history of DOXA is one that's best told in two chapters. The first is the late 19th century story of a brand that began, like so many, in the Jura Valley – the heartland of…

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29.03.2020

Do media make good watches? We say yes (of course we do), these are our four favourites

Media and watch collaborations: in theory, they should be a match made in heaven … and, let's be honest, they almost always are. That shouldn't come as a surprise, though, considering the people behind these industry hybrids are writing, reviewing and critiquing myriad watches every single day. We should know what's best. And it turns out, we often do. Trouble is, though, there's been more than a few released in the last couple of years, so narrowing down which ones are best can be hard. But that's exactly what we've done. The crew at T+T, after an exhaustive conference call…

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Doxa SUB 200

21.03.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it

Kayaking isn't the sport that immediately comes to mind when you think of DOXA, given that your DOXA is most comfortable hundreds of metres under the water, not necessarily on a narrow boat above the water. But that is exactly where fellow watch writer Sophie Furley from Watchonista took two different DOXA models on quite a cold looking adventure recently, paddling out over Lake Brienz in Switzerland. On the wrists were the DOXA SUB 200 with the turquoise dial, as well as the classic DOXA orange dial SUB 200 T.GRAPH, which represent the diversity of options within the current DOXA…

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08.03.2020

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019?

Editor's note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That's a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made famous by Martin Sheen wearing one in Francis Ford Coppola's Apocalypse Now, the SLA033 is an exacting homage of the original. However, although it may look like the OG, it has all the benefits of a modern watch, such as domed sapphire crystal with an…

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08.03.2020

These are some of the best women's watches money can buy

Happy International Women's Day to everyone out there. This past year has seen the unveiling of some of the best new ladies watches that we've seen in a very long time. In fact, if you're a female watch enthusiast, there's never been a better time to be invested in horology – the offerings from watchmakers are getting so good. With that in mind, we thought we'd share with you some of the best women's watches money can buy. Enjoy. BULGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI While the Octo has perhaps become the male staple in the Bulgari collection, the Serpenti is just as…

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06.03.2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Featuring the best Insta comment thread of 2020, Post Malone's watch collection and we go Into The Wild

Welcome back to the Friday Wind Down, website edition! We don't know how long (a couple of years perhaps?) we've kept the Wind Down exclusively for subscribers, delivered hot to their inbox on Friday afternoon. But we've received enough requests for the old days, when it was delivered just as hot, just as heavy, via the website, right as you are likely taking your Chardonnay or Pale Ale off the ice for a refreshing knockoff beverage. Well, the old days are new again — we are back to the future. In the comeback edition of the Friday Wind Down we haven't…

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colourful watch

06.03.2020

Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch

Some colourful watches are so loud they threaten to leave you with tinnitus. But is a brightly hued timepiece just a harmless switch-up that offers a bit of fun and welcome variety? Or is a super colourful watch an unforgivably gaudy choice that's designed for look-at-me narcissists and the stylistically insane? Luke Benedictus and Nick Kenyon argue it out. Luke Benedictus – The For Argument OK, let's do a little experiment. Look down at the clothes that you're wearing right now. If you're anything like 90 per cent of the male population, I predict the overriding palette is glum. Personally,…

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Victor Vescovo

05.03.2020

Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo

"To boldly go where no man has gone before …" For most people, that's just a hackneyed line from Star Trek. For Victor Vescovo, it's become a personal mission. Put simply, the American private equity investor is hell-bent on pushing his limits. He's the first man to have reached the deepest points of four of the Earth's five oceans, plumbing a world record depth of 10,925 metres when he made it to the bottom of the Challenger Deep last year. Having previously summited Everest, the 54-year-old is now the only man to have ever travelled to the planet's starkest extremities. But…

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best Hublot Big Bang

04.03.2020

Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best Hublot Big Bang

The team have physically and emotionally recovered from the first round of Battle Royale, which saw a war of words fit for a Grecian epic tale. This week, the team are back in the cage to make their case for their favourite piece from the Hublot Big Bang collection, a family of watches that has just about everything you might ever desire in a wristwatch. Without further ado — draw swords! James' choice – the Hublot Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold This Big Bang typifies why many consider Hublot to be at the pointy end of the horological spear…

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NATO strap on a dress watch

03.03.2020

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results

Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist's line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw this head-scratcher out to the Time+Tide community on Facebook to canvas the views of the people. The results were mixed to say the least. "No, it's naff like no socks with a suit and shoes," insisted Martin. "If you still hold that a formal dress…

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01.03.2020

Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already?

Editor's note: As we're sure most of you reading this are already aware, Baselworld 2020 is officially dead. Yes, despite the perplexing decision from officials to say that the world's biggest watch fair had been "postponed" to the end of January 2021, it has, like so many other trade shows this year, fallen victim to the rampant contagion that is COVID-19 aka Coronavirus. But, things haven't exactly been brilliant for the watch fair of late anyway, and some are even speculating that this latest tribulation could be the final nail in Basel's coffin. After attending last year's event, Sandra Lane gave…

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Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

27.02.2020

Complication made simple with the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

Editor's note: When it comes to stunning dials and complicated movements made simple, no one does it better than Moser. The Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold is one such example, with an enchanting fumé dial and a perpetual moon phase that is so simply laid out, those not in the know might miss it. Let's take another look at this wonderful example of what the Meylan brothers do best. There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the…

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NATO strap on a dress watch

27.02.2020

Crime or Sublime: Should you ever put a NATO strap on a dress watch?

This week Time+Tide HQ sees two new opponents enter the ring, with Luke and Nick trading haymakers on the topic of a NATO strap on a dress watch — very vogue, or fashion faux pas? You be the judge of this one. Luke Benedictus – The For Argument In 2020, most of the dress codes surrounding watches are about as relevant as, ooh … Rove McManus. If you want proof things have loosened up, just look at the Oscars. This was, of course, a decidedly formal event, yet a bunch of monkey-suited actors eschewed classic dress watches in favour of sports…

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26.02.2020

Why tourbillons are more accessible than ever thanks to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T

Editor's note: The tourbillon is an anachronism that is representative of the watch industry as a whole in a little way. It was conceived hundreds of years ago to solve problems that were pressing at the time, but despite being technologically surpassed by other devices in the meantime, it is currently facing its heyday with more being produced than ever before for an audience with a growing appetite. TAG Heuer are one tourbillon producer with a difference — they are working very hard to democratise the complication by making them less wildly expensive than other brands. With that in mind, let's…

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five best watches under 1000 dollars

26.02.2020

These are 5 of the best watches you can buy for under a grand

Whether you're just getting in to watches, or looking for something to scratch the itch before your next big purchase, there are plenty of great timepieces out there that won't break the bank. We've put together this list of five watches for under a $1000 Aussie dollars that are, despite their economy, still great. Enjoy. BALTIC AQUASCAPHE Baltic is fast making a name for itself as a seriously cool microbrand with a vintage range of accessibly priced timepieces. The Aquascaphe is the pick of the bunch, with a clean and clear dial that blends both pad-printed lume with a sandwich…

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best modern-day Rolex Daytona

26.02.2020

Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best modern-day Rolex Daytona

It's a new segment. It's called Battle Royale. Someone nominates a collection, and we fight to the death for our favourite from said collection until there is one opinion standing. Well, not really. That would be bloody, time-consuming, fairly hard to adjudicate and likely to upset HR. So, why don't we just make our case for our pick, and then try to eviscerate each other's (clearly poor) choices in comments? The idea was hatched when we came to the realisation that, as a team, we agree on almost nothing when it comes to watches. Agreeing to disagree is such a…

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Wearing jewellery with watches debate results

24.02.2020

Crime or Sublime: Wearing jewellery with watches – the results

Last week, Luke Benedictus and James Robinson were engaged in a ferocious war of words at T+T HQ over whether or not wearing jewellery with watches was a crime or sublime. Benedictus didn't see any issues with it, while Robinson believed the very notion to be simply abhorrent, despite having previously worn jewellery and a watch on the one wrist … the hypocrisy! Anyway, the two decided to settle their squabble by vigorously scribing their arguments, which you can read right here. Both parties were sure they were victorious in the field of literary battle, but there was only one…

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23.02.2020

Sunday Blues: 5 of the nicest blue dial watches money can buy

Blue dials … they are the quintessence of vogue right now in watch world. And, while the last 12 months has spawned many, many timepieces with the arresting colour aesthetic, these five watches in particular stand out as the nicest blue dial watches money can buy right now. BREGUET CLASSIQUE 5177 BLUE ENAMEL At first glance, the Breguet Classique 5177 Blue Enamel's subtle details remain hidden. But this changes in a heartbeat, as you take it in with a longer view. The Grand Feu enamel dial is stunning. That almost goes without saying. But what really brings this piece to…

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Doxa Sub 200 Professional

21.02.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Is the DOXA SUB 200 Professional good value?

This review of the DOXA SUB 200 Professional by our friends at Hodinkee nails the good, the great and the not quite perfect details of what is proving to be a significant release. Not only for DOXA because — as James says, using a perfect music metaphor — the 200 "turns the funk down to a more standard volume". No love for cushion cases? No problem! It is also significant because it is "punching very hard" in the hot sub-$1000USD price point. You'd pretty much have to have never read Time+Tide before to have missed the news that we have been pretty…

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20.02.2020

Join us at our first ever 'Indie Explorer' night at Time+Tide HQ in Melbourne

Friday, February 28 will be our first 'Indie Explorer' night at Time+Tide HQ, with a number of small, lesser-known brands on hand for exploration. They are Laventure, Lundis Bleus, Eza and, of course, DOXA, for whom we are the proud distributor in Australia. We will have a (increasingly) limited range to discover, as well as a quiet drink or two. One watch you'll want to see in the metal is the Laventure Sous-Marine Steel Green, which is, as of just this week, completely sold out. This is the last model for sale anywhere in the world. The other brands will…

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franck muller dial

20.02.2020

Why it's so challenging to paint a Franck Muller dial

Editor's note: Franck Muller are known for their incredibly complex movements, wonderfully curved case designs, and brightly coloured dials. But did you know that each Franck Muller dial is hand-painted? That's right, there is a dedicated dial painter with a very steady hand, who is responsible for adding that characteristic splash of colour to the wrists of collectors around the world. Time+Tide went head-to-head with Franck Muller to see who could paint the better dial — you be the judge of who won … I'm not above admitting it. I'm more than just a bit painful when it comes to painted…

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20.02.2020

Crime or Sublime: Wearing jewellery with watches

In this week's head-to-head battle of words, James Robinson squares off against Editor Luke Benedictus, as Nicholas Kenyon is still recovering from Robinson's knockout blow in last week's Crime or Sublime. This may well be Benedictus's first time in the figurative ring, but he's come out swinging. And the topic for this week's literary battle? Wearing jewellery with watches … Crime or Sublime? Luke Benedictus – The For Argument Oh please. Surely you've mustered enough self-confidence by now that you can get dressed without meekly submitting to one person's entirely subjective rulebook. The truth is that, for some people, anything…

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19.02.2020

Micro magic: 3 microbrand watches that got everyone talking in 2019

The sheer breadth of microbrands currently occupying the horological hemisphere is nothing short of miraculous, and for us enthusiasts, it's a very good time to be into watches. There have been numerous examples of microbrands knocking it out of the park over the last 12 months, and while we'd like to mention all of them, these three timepieces really stood out: MING 17.06 COPPER For a brand that has only been producing watches for two years, Ming have managed to create a remarkably consistent – and eminently recognisable – design language. This is clear in their new 17.06 Copper, an…

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Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

18.02.2020

Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Editor's note: The one-watch collection is forever in the back of the minds of watch collectors, as a consideration of how one's tastes might look when reduced to a single timepiece. A fun extension of this thought is what one might wear during the apocalypse, and you'd be hard pressed to arrive at a better contender than the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V. Be it an apocalypse of the zombie, nuclear or garden (read: ecological) variety, this G-Shock is as tough as it seems. Let's take another look at the watch that is right out of Cormac McCarthy's The Road. Casio's G-Shock has…

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coronavirus luxury watch industry

18.02.2020

3 reasons why the Coronavirus is really bad news for the luxury watch industry

At the time of writing, the Coronavirus outbreak has already infected more than 70,500 people in China and resulted in 1770 deaths. It's forced the quarantine of more than 50 million people in China and resulted in travel and visa restrictions to more than 70 countries. If that's not bad enough, a new article in The New York Times suggests the disease might also plunge the watch industry into crisis. Here's why … 1. Luxury retail worldwide is massively dependent on Chinese shoppers The article describes how, right now, the luxury shopping precincts of London, Paris, Dubai and Hong Kong…

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Hora Mundi ref. 5717

16.02.2020

Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor's note: Breguet has a remarkable history of producing clocks and watches that were designed for travel. Whether it's the marine chronometers made to set sail across the world's oceans, or the more conventional GMT wristwatch, the brand has always understood the human urge to seek what is over the horizon. With the Hora Mundi ref. 5717, we have a GMT complication, but not as you're used to seeing. Let's take a closer look. The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 made its first appearance in 2011, to an enthusiastic reception. Then, in 2016, when Breguet launched an updated version (ref.…

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Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman

16.02.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman

Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand to concentrate on the past and the future, rather than the present. This attitude to prioritise their legacy before the results of the last quarter has seen Audemars Piguet pour resources into accurately recording their history as it occurs, resulting in an impressive archive of…

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15.02.2020

QP Perfection: 5 of the most exciting perpetual calendar watches of the last year

Few watches scream haute horology like a perpetual calendar. In fact, in the eyes of many enthusiasts, a QP is the nonpareil of complicated timepieces … which is totally understandable, especially when you consider that these infinitesimal mechanical movements are capable of accurately giving owners so much information. What's more interesting still is how different one QP can look to the next. With that in mind, we thought we'd share with you five of the most exciting perpetual calendar watches of the last year: HABRING PERPETUAL-DOPPEL Arguably Austria's best known watch brand stormed into 2019 with the Habring Perpetual-Doppel, which…

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Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex

14.02.2020

Franck Muller offers watchmaking that comes from the heart

Editor's note: Today, love is in the air. Florists are being run off their feet, restaurants are booked out and Cupid has spent the week on the archery range. If you're planning to get a gift for your significant other, you'd better hurry up, but don't forget to make sure your gift is a romantic one. As the air is thick with passion this fine Friday, we can't help but consider one of the most expressively passionate watches of the last few years, the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon. Complete with a heart-shaped tourbillon cage, diamond-set flanks and an…

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the various bespoke Nicholas Hacko NH2 Timascus

13.02.2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Giving birth to the Nicholas Hacko NH2 Timascus

It's very easy to get caught up in the aesthetics of a watch and subsequently make a judgement call based purely on how it looks … we've all done it before. And that's not to say that looks aren't important — they are crucial. But equally, if not more important than the way a mechanical watch looks is, well … its mechanism. A timepiece's movement is its heart, its soul — it is the thing that gives it life. Because of this, I reckon more appreciation and admiration should be heaped at a watch's case back, rather than its front. Nicholas Hacko,…

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13.02.2020

Oddballs: 5 of the quirkiest watches released in 2019

While a great many of the best watches unveiled in 2019 were vintage-inspired homages, there were also plenty of timepieces released that were resolutely modern and quite eccentric. And while we'd like to mention all of them, we've narrowed it down to these, the five quirkiest watches released in 2019: SWATCH FLYMAGIC The Flymagic is apparently a Swatch. But beyond the branding, the strap-fitting, the box, and the fact it is available in the Swatch shop, it's not very Swatch at all. While it seems at first glance to be surprisingly expensive for a Swatch, the specs stack up. A…

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13.02.2020

Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020

The gauntlet has well and truly been thrown down on the polished concrete floors of Time+Tide's headquarters in this week's office row, as a truculent James Robinson asseverated that pocket watches in 2020 are about as useful as a solar powered watch in a sensory deprivation tank … that is to say, completely pointless. Deputy Editor Nicholas Kenyon was having none of it, however, and was locked-and-loaded with a counter argument that could've knocked Robinson's Watch Rats socks clean off. Enjoy the figurative fisticuffs. Nick Kenyon – The For Argument Yes, the pocket watch is irrelevant, but so too is…

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first good watch

13.02.2020

Why the Seiko Turtle could be your first good watch

Editor's note: The Seiko SRP77X collection — watches known affectionately as the Seiko Turtle — are unendingly popular with watch collectors and enthusiasts alike for their clean dive watch aesthetic and almost unbeatable value for money. The large cushion case reminds of the shell of a turtle, but it also reminds of the heyday of the mechanical dive watch, in the 1970s before diving computers were all you needed to accompany you into the depths. If you're just dipping your toe into the watch world and are looking for your first good watch that will look great and won't let you down,…

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one watch collection

12.02.2020

This Rolex could be the perfect one-watch collection

Editor's note: If you could wear only one watch for the rest of your days, what would it be? You'd need something legible, with a reliable movement and maybe a date. You'd need something that you can dress up or dress down, that came on a bracelet but you could also wear on a well-made leather strap. And if you were being really picky, you might want a GMT function too, just to make international travel that bit more comfortable. When you add up all of those things, you can come up with a handful of great watches, but none…

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brad pitt 2020 oscar watch

11.02.2020

Brad Pitt didn't wear a watch to accept his 2020 Oscar, but he wore this in his award-winning performance

Editor's note: Last night, Brad Pitt won the 2020 Oscar for Best Supporting Actor for his role as Cliff Booth in the Quentin Tarantino thriller Once Upon A Time In Hollywood. While his tailored shirt cuff didn't reveal his watch during his acceptance speech, if he was wearing one we can be fairly confident it would have been a Breitling, given his membership in the Breitling Cinema Squad. If our dreams could come true, however, it would have been the watch he wore during his award-winning performance as a Hollywood stuntman in Once Upon A Time In Hollywood. In case you missed the story…

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vintage Vacheron Constantin

10.02.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Vacheron Constantin are removing the dangers of buying vintage watches

Towards the end of last year I was fortunate enough to experience the Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs watches in the metal. They are a shining example of something that many watch manufacturers are looking to execute — exceptional pre-owned pieces sold by the manufacturer. The program has been running for a number of years now, where the brand will buy back pristine examples of vintage Vacheron Constantin watches, either at auction or from private collections, before they restore the watches at their factory and offer them for sale with a full archival extract, warranty and authenticity guarantee. In essence, Vacheron Constantin…

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independent watch brands

09.02.2020

The 5 best independent watch brands of the last decade

Independence is a rare commodity in watchmaking. To have it is one thing; to hold on to it is quite another. We've seen many great brands consumed by hungry conglomerates over the past two decades, with several big names falling under group ownership since 2009. But what of those that remain? Which labels still stand firm, able to govern their keels and steer the ship wherever they wish to travel? Our list of the top five independent watch brands of the last decade takes on a journey around the world, stopping off in three countries, in a search of self-governing…

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09.02.2020

This Chopard L.U.C XP is a dress watch with a difference

Editor's note: First released at Baselworld 2017, Chopard's L.U.C XP turned heads from the moment it was unveiled. And, as we wrote at the time, it's a compelling timepiece that blends everyday practicality with real dress watch sensibility. The aesthetics of this watch aren't its only saving grace, however … far from it. Thanks to being an L.U.C timepiece, you're also getting a watch with the mechanical prowess and bespoke finishing only to be expected of Chopard's haute horology offshoot. Below are some further thoughts and specs on this great watch. Enjoy. I don't want to sound like a jaded…

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08.02.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Mike Tay

Few names loom larger in the horological hemisphere than Mike Tay … and it is very easy to understand why. Here is a man at the helm of the largest and most influential watch retailer in the entirety of the Asia Pacific – The Hour Glass. It's a region which many regard to be the preponderant market on the globe. With 40-plus stores under Tay's stewardship, the Singaporean's advice and counsel is sought by pretty much every watchmaker on the planet. In short, he is the pulse of watch retailing in this part of the world. Tay's story of how…

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Eterna WWW Dirty Dozen

08.02.2020

Which were the Dirty Dozen that died?

Editor's note: Releases of reissued heritage field watches over the last few years have been a hugely successful avenue for a number of brands, thanks to the clean design language and no-nonsense layout of the watches. But what about the original examples of these important watches? Originally produced for the Allied armed forces during the Second World War, the colloquially known Dirty Dozen are the template for the barebones time-only watch of today. Let's take another look at the brands that helped establish this iconic style but aren't as lauded in the history books. The "Dirty Dozen" are watches produced…

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07.02.2020

The soft, flowing lines of the Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

Editor's note: After we were recently witness to Hublot's latest novelties released in Dubai, it's worth taking another look at one of the most innovative designs from the brand in recent years – the Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT. Available in three case materials, the gentle curves were a new direction for Hublot, who are known for their bold and angled designs. But why the change of direction? Let's look closer. A Hublot with soft, flowing lines. Now there's a phrase I never thought I'd write. The Ferrari–Hublot collaboration has produced a stream of watches since 2011, each time with…

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06.02.2020

Crime or Sublime: Double Wristing with a mechanical and Apple Watch

This week's office dissension is a contentious one. In fact, it's an argument so fierce that it threatens to tear the very fabric of Time+Tide's own dynamic duo, Nicholas Kenyon and James Robinson. The topic of debate — Double Wristing with a mechanical and an Apple Watch: crime or sublime? Let the sparks fly! Nick Kenyon – The For Argument To sum up the sentiments of the majority of Swiss watch executives who have weighed in on the Apple Watch and its impact on the luxury watch business, they typically argue it is not a watch, it is a wrist-worn notification…

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Breguet Classique 517

06.02.2020

Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look

Editor's note: At a quick glance, the world of high-end dress watches appears relatively same-same, with the important qualities of each piece only coming to light under much closer inspection. Most dress watches will be time-only, offer a simple dial, and arrive on a leather strap, but as you look closer, you will notice the shape of the hands, the application of hour markers and dial text and the dial material before you even inspect the movement. The Breguet Classique 5177 offers exactly this visual feast of minutiae, with its glossy Grand Feu enamel dial, Breguet-style hands and an intricacy…

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Omega Seamaster Professional 300M

05.02.2020

Why is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M such a good daily wear?

Editor's note: If it can be the daily wear of James Bond, it can be yours, too. But how does the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M actually wear on the wrist? If you haven't had the pleasure of experiencing one in the metal, it's a must, because while the brief of making a daily watch might seem simple, it is much harder to execute than you'd expect, and the watch colloquially known as the SMP gets it just right. Let's take a closer look at why it is so successful. We all love a birthday. And watch brands love them as…

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3 brilliant Breguet

04.02.2020

3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud

Breguet had a stellar year in 2019 as they offered a host of new watches, some of which delivered sportiness, and others that brought a sense of refined classicism. While Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Neuchâtel-born founder of the maison, might have been more comfortable with some of the more traditional pieces in the collection, here are three standout watches that he would have been happy to bear his name. BREGUET MARINE 5517 The Breguet 5517 Marine in titanium has the presence of a watch much larger than its relatively reserved 40mm. It benefits greatly from this reduced size, which allows its…

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Audemars Piguet Code 11.59

02.02.2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained

At the beginning of last year, the famed Le Brassus-based watchmaker Audemars Piguet released their first totally new collection in decades, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59. It is safe to say that the release got people talking, with an outpouring of expression on social media articulating many people's disappointment with the collection, blaming it for being underwhelming in the context of the iconic Royal Oak. If you were one of those people who disliked it initially, let's take a closer look now that a full year has passed and any immediate reactions have had time to cool off. Pre-owned watch…

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02.02.2020

11 of the best time-only watches from 2019

Sometimes you just want a watch that does what watches do best — tell the time. The clean designs and open savannahs of negative space give the wearer of a more simple time-only watch plenty of ground to project their own personality, while also offering a sense of simple refinement. With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the best time-only watches from 2019, and see if we can be seduced by the more simple life. BALTIC AQUASCAPHE Baltic is fast making a name for itself as a seriously cool microbrand with a vintage range of accessibly priced…

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Longines Master Collection

02.02.2020

Up close with the Longines Master Collection

Editor's note: The Longines Master Collection is one of the current pillars of the brand, offering you everything you want in a classic dress watch, but in a modern package and at a sensible price. Andrew took a closer look at the full collection just as it was hitting its stride, and it is certainly worth watching if you are considering adding a contemporary dress watch to your collection. When it comes to Longines' yearly new releases, we are like heatseeking missiles for the vintage fire the brand has at its disposal – few archives are as deep or as…

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Rado watches 2019

01.02.2020

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019

2019 was the year that Rado solidified their intent to deliver watches that not only pleased a loyal fanbase but surprised and captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts new to the brand. Everything from classically proportioned dress watches, to handsome and rugged tool watches and even bold reissues were released by the Swiss marque, to a great deal of fanfare. We've picked out the four watches that surprised and delighted us most in 2019 … here they are: RADO GOLDEN HORSE AUTOMATIC With clear design inspiration from the middle of last century, this Rado speaks to a time when a…

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31.01.2020

The Grand Seiko SBGR311 is an explosion of chocolate tessellation

Editor's note: Grand Seiko are known for excellence in most areas of watchmaking, but case finishing and dial execution are up there at the top. The sheer range of dials they have produced over the years boggles the mind, and they aren't slowing down anytime soon, releasing a host of eye-catching new models in 2019. Included in this recent run of delightful dial design, we got the Grand Seiko SBGR311, with a richly tessellated coco dial that radially spirals away from its centre. It's a sight to see, so if you haven't laid eyes on it before, let's take another…

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30.01.2020

Crime or Sublime: Dive watches on leather straps

It's Thursday, and that can mean only one thing — it's time for Nicholas Kenyon & James Robinson to engage in another jousting of words over a watch-related point of contention. In this week's office argument, the two pontificate whether or not it's OK to wear dive watches on leather straps. James Robinson – The For Argument I don't think there can really be any debate on this matter — dive watches look great on leather bands … and that's the end of it. The argument that "they shouldn't be worn on leather because that defeats the purpose of them" is completely…

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serpent bulgari

29.01.2020

Why the serpent is so important to Bulgari

Editor's note: The serpent is a central part of Bulgari's iconography, and has been for the last eight decades since it first entwined women's wrists in the 1940s. While the design has refined over years, shedding old aesthetics in favour of a newer expression of the same feminine elegance, its power as a symbol of Italian sophistication has never wavered. As a part of the "Watch & Act!" World Watch Auction that is currently offering an 18k yellow gold Serpenti Tubogas kindly donated by Bulgari, we wanted to take a look back at the history of the ophidian-inspired collection, which…

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Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow

29.01.2020

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now

If you're reading this, then chances are you've already seen the amazing video on America's Antiques Roadshow of a US Air Force veteran and his mint Rolex Daytona Ref.6263. If not, stop reading this and watch the below video right now: I think we can all agree … this is a pretty staggering video. And it also got everyone at Time+Tide HQ talking about whether there were any watches that you could buy today and stash in your safe for the next 40 years that would net a similarly lucrative result. It ended up being a vigorous discussion (argument) among the…

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best affordable watches

27.01.2020

11 of the best affordable watches that are still seriously cool

If you're just getting in to watches, you don't have to spend a lot to have a diverse and interesting collection to choose from. Here are some of the best affordable watches, that will still turn heads among your watch friends. Swatch Sistem51 You could easily argue that any Swatch on this list would be a good shout (with the possible exception of the curiously priced Flymagic), but the Sistem51 takes the crown because it is not just a great model from a world-famous, incredibly credible brand, but also because it is mechanically interesting. It is pretty darn hard to…

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innovative watches of 2019

26.01.2020

Innovation sensation: 3 of the most innovative watches of 2019

Watches are no longer the robust tools we use in everyday life. We tell the time with our phones, and watches instead have taken on a much more important role as communicating something about ourselves. In spite of this, some watch companies continue to invest heavily in a traditional form of watchmaking where innovation is front of mind as the industry develops. Here are some of those manufacturers, offering us a few of the most innovative watches of 2019. VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE TWIN BEAT PERPETUAL CALENDAR Vacheron Constantin released the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar to great acclaim. It is…

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best German watches of 2019

24.01.2020

The best German watches of 2019

Last year was a solid year on the road to recovery for the industry, with several big names dropping interesting pieces that either expand or embellish existing collections. Over in Germany (Glashütte, specifically), many of the greatest watchmakers beyond the Swiss borders have been particularly busy. A strong year for the Germans was rounded off by the truly stunning news that A. Lange & Söhne was to release a stainless steel sports watch. Of course, the Odysseus model would feature on any rundown of the top German tickers of 2019, but where will it land in our top 5? 5.…

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Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe

24.01.2020

What Sealed The Deal – Jeremy's Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe

A chronograph is an important part of any watch collection, but the decision regarding which brand or model to buy can be a tough one. Time+Tide reader Jeremy talks us through the decision to pull the trigger on what was not only his first chronograph, but his first-ever Swiss watch, a silver dial example of the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe. When did you first see/hear about it? I first heard about Maurice Lacroix when quality and advertising was ramped up in the early 2010s. Their watches looked nice in magazines and I found out that they are amongst a handful…

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Hublot Classic Fusion

23.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 5: A Hublot Classic Fusion, made unique

Another watch conceived from scratch for the 'Watch & Act!' Auction, the Classic Fusion 'Watch & Act!' Unique Piece features a ceramic case, carbon fibre bezel and a shimmering blue dial. The case back is engraved with the words 'Unique Piece'. Before we go on, here's a quick primer on the Classic Fusion line: the collection, introduced in 2010, is intended as a slightly more subtle (dare we say dressier?) offering than the traditional Big Bang, while still possessing some of those indisputable Hublot hallmarks — the 'H' screws on the bezel, the solid end links on the strap, and…

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23.01.2020

Crime or Sublime: In-house movements

In their second office fracas, colleagues Nick Kenyon and James Robinson do battle via the humble keyboard to settle yet another quarrelsome topic: In-house movements — are they brilliant and necessary in horology or, more often than not, disappointing and overkill? James Robinson – The For Argument Allow me, if you will, to begin this discourse with an analogy: let's say that you've worked really, really hard for several years, and to reward yourself, you want to buy a special car. For argument's sake, I'll use the ubiquitous sports car as the example — a Porsche 911. Imagine walking into the…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon

22.01.2020

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing

Editor's note: In 2019 we saw the popularity of existing steel sports watches with blue dials hit fever pitch on the secondary market, as well as a number of brands release their own examples of the watch that everyone wants on their wrist. But what about when a brand produces a watch that doesn't just tell the time in the same way the other sports watches do? Enter the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon, a sports watch that is in line with the vogue, but with a difference that will get the heart racing of even the most seasoned horological connoisseur.…

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Serpenti Tubogas

22.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 3: Bulgari's Golden Serpent

One of the key pieces in Bulgari's recent resurgence, alongside the record-breaking 50+ award-winning Octo Finissimo, the Serpenti Tubogas represents the height of feminine elegance. Note the serpentine Tubogas bracelet that snakes sensuously around the wearer's wrist. It is offered here in 18k yellow gold with a silver opaline dial. This watch has been generously donated by Bulgari. Merging two of the most iconic symbols of Bulgari design, the Serpenti Tubogas evokes both the shape of a woman and the fluid coils of the serpent. This watch marks a distinctive chapter in the constant evolution of Serpenti. It features a…

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Oris Divers Sixy-Five Limited Edition for Hodinkee

22.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth?

Hodinkee's extraordinary run of sold-out limited edition models only became more of a water-cooler conversation topic when the 250-run of the Oris Divers Sixy-Five Limited Edition for Hodinkee was released, to be sold out in less than 10 minutes. The team generously offer one of their own brand new archive models of the highly sought Limited Edition to the 'Watch & Act!' Auction. Modelled after a design originally created by Oris in 1965, the Divers Sixty-Five model was introduced in 2015 and has become a mainstay of the brand's heritage collection, offered in a range of sizes, dial designs…

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U2 bass player Adam Clayton's H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds

22.01.2020

"Watch & Act!" Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton's H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial

The personal watch of Adam Clayton, bass player of U2, this Pioneer Centre Seconds is one of only three Pioneer models in existence without a brand name on the dial. It has not been polished and is literally 'off Adam's wrist to the auction' – light scratches and wear marks remain. Adam has been photographed extensively with the watch, including the attached photo shoot in GQ Magazine. This watch has been generously donated by H. Moser & Cie with the blessing of Adam Clayton. The Pioneer is an extremely curious hybrid of a sports watch and a dress watch. The…

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Oris Aquis Depth Gauge

21.01.2020

This Oris Aquis Depth Gauge isn't trying to be a vintage dive watch

Editor's note: The last couple of years have seen a very distinct trend with the majority of Swiss watchmakers — the rise of the re-edition. You know what I'm talking about: re-edition, re-creation, reinterpretation … whatever you want to call it, vintage-inspired watches are the vogue right now. And I get it, a watchmaker looking to its past to help forge a bright future is great, and consumers get to purchase watches with real antiquated charm and flair, without trawling eBay, op-shops or thrift stores. But — and it's a big but — all this hype around vintage timepieces has…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo

20.01.2020

Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic?

We're not even a month into 2020 but already Bulgari has released a collection of stunning new references in the Octo Finissimo range, with two standout pieces in steel and ceramic. But which piece is more compelling? The team share their thoughts. James Robinson – Team Steel The biggest news, by far, coming out of LMVH's Watch Week in Dubai was Bulgari's announcement that the Octo Finissimo will be made available in a stainless steel case. Mark my words – this watch has the potential to well and truly shake up the watch industry. Not only does the Octo Finissimo…

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20.01.2020

Premier League play-off – which manager is top of the League in the watch department?

The English Premier League (or EPL as some people insist on calling it these days) is known for its fast, physical style of play that rarely translates to international success for the three lions. But with many famous Socceroos having plied their trade in England's top flight, the league has strong exposure Down Under. Under the bright lights, the managers of the best and brightest talents in England's first division would be wise to don a reliable timepiece so they can track just how many extra seconds of stoppage time the ref is (or isn't) giving their team. But some…

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custom Patek Philippe Nautilus

15.01.2020

Customised Watches: Watchmaking Crime or Horologically Sublime?

The debate about customised watches after they have left the factory is one that has been raging for generations. Is personalising your watch a laudable expression of individuality? Or is it a crass bastardisation of the very art of watchmaking? Here, Nick Kenyon and James Robinson tackle the debate head on. Nick Kenyon – The For Argument One of the reasons that I am both appreciative and incredibly lucky to have been born in Australia is there is the freedom to pretty much do whatever you want, so long as you aren't hurting or defaming anyone else in the process.…

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Hublot watches from 2019

09.01.2020

Porthole perfection: Our top 5 Hublot watches from 2019

Horological disruptors Hublot were on a veritable roll last year, releasing a great many new and innovative timepieces that once again show why they are making waves in the watch world. Here are a few special wristwatches that caught our eye. HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO TEAK ITALIA INDEPENDENT TITANIUM Limited to just 100 pieces, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Teak Italia Independent Titanium 45mm is every teak-freak's fever dream. With a bezel made of a mixture of teak and carbon fibre (peak 'art of fusion' right here, folks), this is the perfect watch for all yacht owners looking to recall…

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Universal Genève Polerouter

06.01.2020

Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s

Some watches take the world by storm the moment they are released. Some, however, take a little while longer to be appreciated. The true significance of the Universal Genève Polerouter, first released in 1954, and its subsequent offshoots are still in the process of being properly recognised. Not only was it the first really significant design to exit the pen of Gérald Genta (who would go on to design the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus before overhauling Bulgari's product offering and launching his own brand), it was a trailblazer upon its release. And still, to this…

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05.01.2020

The story of the Rolex with 9 lives, twice

Editor's note: Rolex is probably the strongest watch brand on the planet, but as well as their worldwide fame and popularity, they make incredibly reliable and robust wristwatches. One key part of their success at consistently producing hard-wearing watches is the quality control at their factory, ensuring that every timepiece that leaves the building has met their strict standards. As a result, it's an incredibly rare moment when a Rolex is found with any mistakes, but that is exactly what happened when an Air-King popped up with a very unusual dial. It's a modern-day escape from Alcatraz, where the escapee…

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05.01.2020

A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000

How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists' tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn't much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the industry has seen since the advent of crowdfunding platforms is independence. You don't find micros in a group. They may band together with other micros to pool event resources and widen their audience reach, but they are generally the ones in control of the purse…

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best watch ads

04.01.2020

The best watch ads of the last 50 years

The importance of advertising in the world of luxury watchmaking can hardly be overstated. How a brand is perceived is everything. An effective campaign cannot just establish a model as a classic of the future, but position a brand so effectively that not even decades of half-hearted follow-ups or PR missteps seem capable of affecting its standing. Ambassadorships often go hand-in-hand with advertisements – a trend arguably started by Hans Wilsdorf's decision to strap a Rolex Oyster to Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitze and then featuring her image in the write-up of her endeavours. But that is ancient history. Let's focus…

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exit watch

03.01.2020

What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one?

The idea of a grail watch – the would-be jewel in the crown of our collection for which we all strive – is well established. Not only does it make for some really interesting discussions over coffee, but it also helps shape your collection's direction and deepens your understanding of the watch industry and what you want to get out of it. The term "grail watch" has been used for so long and by so many people that its meaning is already starting to change. Or, should I say, its parameters are starting to relax somewhat. Whereas originally a grail…

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Watches On A Bracelet

02.01.2020

Why you should always buy your watches on a bracelet when you have the chance

Very few watch straps are as integral to the overall look and feel of a watch as a bracelet can be. On occasions, the bracelet is as essential to the watch DNA as the watch head – a continuation of the same concept, snaking around the wrist. The most famous bracelet design of all time probably belongs to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which burst onto the scene in 1972. It not only redefined the genre of steel sports watches, but it also gave the world a willing poster boy for integrated design. Gérald Genta would continue this trend with…

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Transparency In Luxury Watchmaking

01.01.2020

Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know?

It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to "pull back the curtain" on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop rewarding brands for trying to blow the whistle on the inner machinations of the luxury world for the sake of the industry's future? Lies are never good, but mystery has its place in our lives. The idea that luxury should be in any way transparent…

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Clairvoyant Watch Collector

31.12.2019

The clairvoyant watch collector – which brand will establish itself as a big player in the next decade?

In 2009, Rolex performed a miracle. Necromancy. A resurrection. Back from the dead was the oft-maligned sister brand of the Crown: Tudor watches. What followed in the seven years since was the most startling and effective rebrand the world of watches has ever seen. And thanks to an immense financial investment and influential vocal advocacy, underpinned by an excellent product, it looks likely Tudor's star will continue to burn brighter still over the years to come. Watch collecting is not what it was. How could it be? Until 30 years ago the notion of "collecting" watches was as odd a…

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Watch Ambassadors

30.12.2019

Drone pilots? Snooker players? Four watch ambassadors straight out of left field

Some boardroom discussions would be fascinating to observe. The brand decisions presumably make sense at the time, but can appear a little odd to the rest of us. Every so often, however, a brand makes a bold play to distinguish itself from its price-point competitors and it kind of works. Sometimes because the brand chose credibility and congruity over celebrity status, and other times because it's so wacky, it's hard to forget (and thus achieving its objective). So, let's get to know a few watchmaking ambassadors from lesser followed sports. How good a fit do you think these men and…

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rolex daytona

29.12.2019

5 things you never knew about the Rolex Daytona

As one of the most important model series in the world today, the Rolex Daytona is used to living life in the spotlight. What that means is that there are very few things to say about the Daytona that haven't already been said, but here's a rundown of five milestone changes to how the Rolex Daytona is built, which may or may not have popped up on your radar at their time of release. The Daytona was released in 1963 It all began in the early '60s when Rolex decided to nickname one of their new Cosmograph chronographs (reference 6239)…

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best fashion watch brands

28.12.2019

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers

For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term "fashion watch" is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn't have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, following the darkest period in luxury horology's history, during which time quartz watches had threatened to extinguish the craft entirely, it was fashion brands that changed the way watches were seen and worn. Although it seems a bit counterintuitive these days, the idea of a…

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26.12.2019

5 things you never knew about Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak

If you regard yourself as a fan of luxury watchmaking, it's probably fair enough to assume that you have heard of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For those of you that haven't, it is, quite simply, an icon. It is the epitome of luxury steel watches, and there's a good reason for that (read on to find out). Aside from being designed in a single day by the endlessly inventive mind of Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak's popularity has endured. And as one might expect for a model so steeped in history, a few myths and legends have sprung up…

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watch case materials

25.12.2019

Best case scenario: What are the best watch case materials?

For many years now, watchmakers on all levels have tried to separate themselves from the pack by experimenting with different watch case materials. Nowadays, we're used to seeing some highly impressive materials make their way onto our wrists. Ceramics, plastics and carbons are all enjoying their day in the sun, but how do the older, more traditional metals stack up against one another? Here's a quick guide to the most popular metal cases on the market today. Stainless steel Stainless steel is a common, highly resistant, easy-to-machine alloy that comes in a few types. The most common (by far) is…

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Patek Philippe Nautilus

23.12.2019

3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Nautilus forms the basis of this historic brand's sports collection, which rivals the very best in the business. And the genesis of this iconic model shares its history with another legendary sports watch, further cementing the status of the man behind both pieces. Designed by Gérald Genta, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak hit the market four years before he followed up with the Nautilus, which debuted in 1976. Being responsible for two of the industry's most recognisable references firmly established Genta's reputation as the father of luxury sports watches. And while we've had the best part of…

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04.12.2019

The watches James Bond should have worn

If you've ever been on the internet you will have noticed one million and one articles about the watches James Bond has worn throughout his long and many-faced career. If this is your first time on the World Wide Web, welcome and, trust me, 90 per cent of what you've been missing out on comprises James Bond watch articles and funny cat videos. But here at Time+Tide, we want to take you on a journey to an alternate dimension. Here, we pick nine of the best James Bond outings and outfit the famous British spy with a timepiece more suited…

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Rolex GMT-Master Ref.1675 "Pepsi"

30.10.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Darren's Rolex GMT-Master Ref.1675 "Pepsi"

Birth year watches are a pretty special thing, especially if you manage to find one in a watch model that you actually want. But here's something you don't see very often … or ever, really. Darren has gone and bought himself a gorgeous Rolex GMT-Master Ref.1675 "Pepsi" that was not only sold in his birth year but on his birth date! That's pretty remarkable and, if I'm being completely honest, I'm exceedingly jealous. Where did you first see/hear about it? I purchase a lot of my watches from trusted dealers in Singapore, having lived there for a couple of years…

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28.10.2019

Flip it and reverse it – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Moon

Editor's note: Everybody loves a watch with a party trick, and the party trick of the two-faced Reverso is hard to beat. Especially when you add a moon into the mix, as is the case with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Moon. It's fair to say that, for most people, Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2017 has been synonymous with the Master Control series we've spoken about at length. On the one hand, these watches deserve their time in the sun; on the other hand, you might have missed the truly stylish Reversos JLC released this year. For me, the star of the swivelling show…

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27.10.2019

Tudor's Black Bay Steel – all metal, no colour

Editor's note: There's a lot of Black Bays out there, but one of the coolest, in our humble opinion, is the 2017 Tudor Black Bay Steel – a version that strips the colour from the model to reveal its purest, most tool-watch attributes … The story in a second: When the going gets tough, wear a Black Bay Steel. Did you know that this year the Black Bay family is five years old? Well, it is, and the fundamental design isn't showing any signs of flagging. Case in point is this watch, which represents the Black Bay stripped back to…

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26.10.2019

Are watches just an insecure guy thing?

Editor's note: In one of our favourite Sandra stories of all time, she takes aim at all the sacred cows of watch collecting, and skewers them. In style. When I talk with other women about watch collecting, the most common reaction runs along the lines of, "Oh, that's just a sad guy thing" or "I totally don't get why my husband bought such an expensive one/has to own so many/is so geeky about them …" Or even, "Ha! Boys' toys – you know what they're a substitute for …" So yeah, a luxury watch is really just a much more…

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26.10.2019

Grand Seiko's big Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221)

Editor's note: Grand Seiko is typically seen as a restrained brand design-wise (dials excepted), but this 46mm chunk of titanium and ceramic proves that the brand has it in them to pull a modern sports chrono out of the bank when it matters … To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko's contemporary-looking new modular ceramic Spring Drives, I was on the fence. I didn't expect it, and wasn't sure what to think. Of course the quality and technical precision were very much in evidence, but the aesthetics were well outside the norm for the brand. But over time…

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23.10.2019

A quick flyover of IWC's Pilot's collection feat. the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines

A little while ago, Andrew ran a series of overview videos on the various members of the IWC Pilot's family. And, to be honest, it's a story well worth telling, as the Pilot's watch is one of the most recognisable and iconic wristwatch designs of the last 100 years. And while IWC don't have a monopoly on the style, they've certainly made it their own and their various versions are supremely popular for the brand. So, (if you'll pardon the odd visual pun) take another dive into the world of aviation watches as Andrew talks through the oversized crowns and…

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20.10.2019

The incREDible Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic

Editor's note: It should come as no surprise that Hublot know their way around ceramic. I mean, seriously, just look at the vibrancy of this red. It really is magic. Read on for our review … The story in a second: It's big. It's red. It's Hublot. Red is a colour with some pretty specific cultural meaning — danger, passion, excitement and love. And most of these emotions or associations are pretty applicable (danger, not so much) to Hublot's latest hot piece, the Big Bang Unico Red Magic, a statement piece par excellence that impresses on so many levels. The…

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20.10.2019

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton

Editor's note: One of my main criteria for a banger watch these days is wearability. Sure, looks are important, but fit reigns supreme. Luckily, the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton delivers on both fronts … The story in a second: Contemporary design and classic size make this a winning combination. It's no secret that the Defy is Zenith's darling this year. Baselworld 2018 saw them release a swag of different versions, including the crazy Zero G, the impressive chronograph, and this watch, the comparatively simple Classic. And while it may lack some of the fancy functionality of its bigger brothers, for…

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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire

17.10.2019

Black and Hello: Rediscovering the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire

Editor's note: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire perfectly typifies why the Swiss watchmaker is at the forefront of material innovation and design aesthetic — you just don't see many watches out there like this. This particular Spirit of Big Bang was actually the first watch in the world to be made of solid Yellow Sapphire and, when contrasted with its black open-worked dial, crown and pushers, it makes for a very attractive, if extroverted, timepiece. Magic Gold, ceramic, sapphire. We all know that Hublot loves toying with case materials, and their latest comes as yet another clever spin…

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Longines Heritage Military

16.10.2019

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade

Editor's note: From a purely real estate perspective, the dial is the most important part of the watch. It's what you look at most of the time, and it's the functional heart and soul of the watch. And while I'm willing to admit that other parts of the watch might play a role, let's roll with the dial argument for now. Not least because Longines has absolutely nailed it here. Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that's down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and…

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13.10.2019

Spending some quality time with the Omega Speedmaster CK 2998

Editor's note: Believe it or not, earlier this year I spent my first serious time with a Speedmaster on the wrist, in particular the Omega Speedmaster CK 2998. This is how I went … As far as famous watches go, the Speedmaster is way up there. And aside from its famous extraterrestrial exploits, it's also a real staple of the watch world, which is why a Speedy was a natural choice of wrist wear for my recent Swiss trip. The fact that this trip included spending some quality time with Omega only sealed the deal. The next question was: which Speedmaster?…

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13.10.2019

Battle for the blue with the Seiko Samurai 'Save The Ocean' SRPC93K

Editor's note: Seiko's limited editions are pretty legendary, and for good reason. Some of the most coveted are those in the sporty Prospex line. Like this Seiko Samurai 'Save The Ocean' SRPC93K … The story in a second: Same great watch, brand new dial. The centrepiece of Seiko's 2018 Prospex collection is, without doubt, the brand new and very blue 'Save The Ocean' series, offered in Turtle, Samurai and solar variants. It follows on from the recent Black Series and Blue Lagoon. But while last year's limited edition was purely a cosmetic update, the Save The Ocean release has an…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre, watch, JLC

12.10.2019

An exercise in subtlety – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon

Editor's note: Simple style and an exceptional dial. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon has it all going on … 'Novelty' is one of the most abused words in the watch industry. Practically, it's used to describe the steady stream of new models and designs being produced by watchmaking brands. But on top of that, it conveys a sense of newness and — marketing departments fervently hope — excitement. For example, Jaeger-LeCoultre's 2017 novelties were their Master Control trilogy — they excited people, and rightfully so. And while this grey-dialled Master Ultra Thin Moon is a new release, it's not really a…

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11.10.2019

A slightly smaller statement watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 43mm

Editor's note: I'm on record as being quite the fan of TAG Heuer's contemporary take on the Classic Carrera, but I'm fully willing to admit that the original version was a beast on the wrist — 45mm is a big mood, and not everyone is up for that. Which is why the 43mm is such a great call. It's still jam-packed with BWE (big watch energy), but slightly more manageable IRL. Winner. TAG Heuer's avant-garde new take on the classic Carrera, the Heuer 01, has become an increasingly bright — and big — star in the brand's firmament since its release in…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 Review

10.10.2019

Dress blues – Baume & Mercier's Clifton Baumatic with a gorgeous gradient blue dial

Editor's note: Baume & Mercier's flagship dress watch, the Clifton Baumatic, got a deep blue makeover earlier this year, which, combined with the classic styling and impressive movement, makes for a compelling daily dress offering … Baume & Mercier's foray into the world of in-house movements resulted in one of the biggest value propositions of 2018, the Clifton Baumatic. Well, this year the simple steel watch with an impressive five-day power reserve was the subject of a stylish makeover, in the form of a blue dial. But not just any blue. The cadran bleu, as it's called, is a deep,…

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10.10.2019

Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer

Editor's note: Christopher Ward is a name that pops up whenever someone is looking for a watch that offers a solid value proposition, and this remarkably well-priced worldtimer proves the point. Stylish times, no matter where you are in the world … Worldtimers — which allow you to, at a glance, quickly determine the time anywhere across the globe — aren't the most common complications. And typically, this level of mechanical wizardry comes at a cost. Typically. This handsome fella, the C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer from UK-based outfit Christopher Ward, bucks the trend. Before we delve into the details, it's…

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06.10.2019

The dark delights of the black ceramic TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01

Editor's note: I'm a big fan of the Heuer 01 from TAG Heuer. It's a cool, modern watch that looks great in a whole bunch of executions. And, to my mind, one of the best is this fully black ceramic number. Sporty, stealthy and — dare we say it — sexy. In two short years, TAG Heuer's Carrera Heuer 01 has gone from a single statement model to a fully fledged sub-collection, with something for everyone. Having said that, this stealthy, slightly smaller 43mm in matt black ceramic might just be the most versatile model yet. The case There are…

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05.10.2019

This Breguet Classique 7147 is pretty unbeatable as a dress watch

Editor's note: Watch people love nothing more than popping watches into genres or tropes. And while a lot of the time these categorisations can be a little, how shall we put it — arbitrary — in the case of Breguet's Classique 7147 we're pretty comfortable declaring this as a dress watch, and a dress watch in the truest and most classical sense. The Classique 7147 is the definition of a quiet achiever. It's a simple, sturdy watch that does everything asked of it with style, and it does so with a sense of reserved assurance that only a watch with…

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02.10.2019

White light – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic

Editor's note: Who knew that a fully white ceramic open-worked watch would be one of this year's freshest looks? No one, that's who. But that's OK, a surprise hit wouldn't be a surprise if everyone saw it coming. Which is somewhat ironic as everyone will see you coming if you're rocking this bad girl on the wrist … I'm not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the…

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01.10.2019

Vacheron Constantin's Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design

Editor's note: This interview is an old one, from SIHH 2015, and the Harmony is a watch that isn't a massive focus for Vacheron Constantin right now, but the brand's Creative Director, Mr Christian Selmoni, is one of the most articulate and interesting creative minds in the watch business, and definitely worth a read, especially as much of this speaks to the overall qualities of Vacheron Constantin's approach to design and watchmaking. T+T: I understand that along with Vacheron Constantin's 260th birthday you're celebrating your own milestone – 25 years with Vacheron Constantin – congratulations! What was it like…

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15.09.2019

It's 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor's 2019 releases now?

Editor's note: The dust has well and truly settled on this year's watch releases, and they're starting to filter out into the world and onto wrists. This is as true with Tudor as it is with anyone else. Though we haven't seen any P01 watches out in the wild yet, we thought the timing was right to take another look at their 2019 highlights … It's testament to the power and ongoing evolution of Tudor's blue-chip Black Bay family that our top three picks from Baselworld 2019 are all Black Bays, and also — from a distance at least — look…

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14.09.2019

7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum

Editor's note: Seiko is a brand with a pretty incredible history. And a lot of this history goes under the radar, to be honest. Which is why, when Sandra visited Tokyo last year we strongly suggested she make a detour to Seiko's Museum. Here's what she learned … If you're ever in Tokyo, I strongly recommend making time for a detour to Sumida. Where? A residential area north of Tokyo Skytree – a bit of a backwater, to be honest. Why? For the Seiko Museum. Even if you're not particularly a Seiko fan, it's full of horological discoveries. And if…

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13.09.2019

Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775)

Editor's note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models — but it's hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains … Not a Radiomir to be seen this year at SIHH; lots of new Luminor Due variations (including a very good 38mm). However, with Angelo Bonati retiring in April from the brand he built from almost-zero to quite the hero, the halo piece has to be that most "Panerai" of all Panerais –…

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13.09.2019

Champagne campaign – the 37mm Rado Captain Cook Automatic now comes with a lovely light dial

Editor's note: It's no longer news that so-called smaller watches are back. And one of the leading lights in the movement is the Rado Captain Cook. The latest version, with a Champagne dial, is really something to celebrate. We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook models, but now it's official. The fan favourite Rado Captain Cook Automatic in 37mm is now offered in a limited edition Champagne (or to give its official, but less romantic, name — brown sunbrushed) dial. Dial aside, the details are unchanged: polished steel case, ceramic…

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12.09.2019

Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser

Editor's note: While the Pilot might be IWC's hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why … There's a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC's most popular (in Australia at least). It's a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses a grace and charm that belies its large size. This combination makes it one of the go-to statement watches. But did you know that it's also got the weight of history behind it? A little while ago we chatted with IWC museum curator and general know-it-all…

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10.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide

I don't know about you, but I find navigating Casio's iconic and uber-tough G-Shock family a tricky process. It's a reference number dominated space which, to the outsider, is every bit as confusing as the worlds of vintage Rolex or Patek. Adding to the complexity is the sheer profusion of models. Limited editions, collaborations and colourways all play their part. But if you'd like to get your head around the ways of the G-Shock quickly and efficiently you're in luck, because Gear Patrol's Allen Farmelo has written a no-holds-barred breakdown on the line. From Mudmasters to full metal models and…

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10.09.2019

A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date

Editor's note: The Marine is Breguet's star of the show at the moment, with a profusion of new models in the house — including some chic titanium options — but we can't help but have a soft spot for this elegant beast, the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date. What a looker … We're willing to bet that when you think of Breguet, the first thing that comes to mind is slim elegance, or maybe the old-world charm of their vintage chronos. But a casual/luxury sports watch? Not so much. Nevertheless, that's exactly what the Marine 5817 is – Breguet's take…

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09.09.2019

That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas

Editor's note: We, along with the rest of the world, have been on a pretty heavy space-nostalgia trip of late. A trip that naturally led us back to Andrew's 2015 trip with Omega, to the Space Centre in Houston, a place that was, in many ways, ground zero for the mythos that surrounds the Speedy. Andrew's main question before this trip: Does the Speedy live up to the myth? Read on to find out … You don't need to be in the watch industry very long to work out that it survives not on product but on stories. Watches without…

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09.09.2019

Looking back to the future with Rado's Captain Cook Mark III

Editor's note: You don't need to be a naval captain (or even a cook) to appreciate the lovely case shape and bold details of the Rado Captain Cook Mk III. So funky, so so smooth. The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it's time for the other side of the coin, the modern take on an old classic. Meet the Rado Tradition Captain Cook Mark III. On paper, it's a titanium-cased diver with an internal bezel. On the wrist, it's so much more. The titanium case is large (46mm large),…

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08.09.2019

The heavyweight – Patek Philippe's Nautilus Ref. 5740

Editor's note: I'm hoping that we can mark 2019 down in the history books as peak Nautilus-mania, but there's another part of my brain that isn't quite so sure. Either way, your odds of walking into ye oldie AD, dropping down some fat stacks and walking out with this complicated beauty, the Patek Philippe's Nautilus Ref. 5740, are veering heavily toward the 'none' on a spectrum of slim to none. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't try. Here's Sandra's review … One of the big surprises of Baselworld 2018 was Patek Philippe's decision to add a grand complication model –…

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08.09.2019

David Beckham's Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best

Editor's note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn't one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks. Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two of his Tudor watches. And I've got to say, as far as showing what a brand is all about, they're pretty hard to beat. The first video looks at the first Tudor watch Beckham owned and wore, a 1969 Snowflake Sub, which Beckham describes as…

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07.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd

Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world's radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny's career in engraving didn't start with watches — he went through the far more traditional route of fine long gun engraving. And he didn't mess around either, starting at the top of the tree with James Purdey & Sons (a Richemont property, for those into the corporate ownership of luxury brands). I've never made a big mistake on a gun, like…

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07.09.2019

From stylish to rugged – 5 Montblanc watches that cover every base

Editor's note: The watches of Montblanc have been getting better and better over the last few years. Newer, cleaner designs and a streamlined product, along with smart value propositions mean that it's a brand that should be on your radar. Don't believe us? Here are five 2019 releases you should get across. Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc's top watch guy, the brand's timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc's SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a…

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06.09.2019

Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute

Editor's note: Jaquet Droz is a brand with an increasing presence on our fair shores. And while they're best known for their watches that exhibit a decent amount of both pomp and circumstance, there's a lot to be said for their simpler offerings, which are still distinctive as all get-out. Don't believe us? Check out the Astrale Grande Heure Minute … Jaquet Droz is a brand that has built its reputation on incredible automata and extravagant finishing. Fluttering birds, delicate miniature painting, and exquisite handcrafts are all par for the course for the brand. Which is why this watch, the…

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06.09.2019

Slender and springy – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003

Editor's note: There's something in the air at Grand Seiko. The brand is busting out new designs left, right and centre. It's an exciting time to be a fan of Japan's premier watchmaker. Case in point, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 … Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 and, boy, does the Spring Drive — that unique trifecta of electronic, kinetic and magnetic energy — feature strongly. But not just the Spring Drives you know and love, with that arching power reserve at eight. No, in honour of the movement's 20th anniversary, there…

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05.09.2019

Sports Luxury – 5 watches that deliver on both fronts

Editor's note: We're deep in the age of premium athleisure, so it makes sense that this patrician approach to utility is extending to our wrists. But can the two — seemingly polar opposite — aesthetics peacefully coexist? These five watches say yes. Sports luxury is one of those ephemeral subgenres in watchland that hides a multitude of sins. It's easy for a watch maker to label any oversized solid-gold diver as sports luxe, but the reality is that most of these watches will never see any actual sports time. Frankly, that's not good enough. So we found a select handful…

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04.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59

It's fair to say at this point of 2019 that the CODE 11.59 collection from Audemars Piguet has been the most widely panned watch release of the year, if not recent years. It was in some ways a perfect storm of critical disapproval, poor PR and a pack mentality that got pretty nasty. But pictures on Instagram tell only a tiny fraction of the story, and they're certainly not a great way to judge a watch. Which is why, when we saw this collector review over on Deployant, we were intrigued. Christian Kretschmar picked up a black-dialled time-only piece after…

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04.09.2019

In-house movements – what are they and do they even matter?

Editor's note: Sandra wrote this lovely piece at the start of the year, and it speaks to one of the biggest movements (if you'll pardon the pun) in the watch industry over the last few decades – the rise of the in-house movement. I won't steal Sandra's thunder, but suffice to say it's worth a read. If you're considering buying a new watch, one of the least important questions you should ask is: "Does it have an in-house movement?" To be blunt: the mere existence of an in-house movement does not necessarily equate to a better watch. So why do…

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03.09.2019

Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary

Editor's note: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary is an oldie but a goodie. And not an oldie in the 1950-something sense, but rather in the, 'this 2017 limited edition is probably all gone by now'. But it's very much the definition of a modern heritage banger. The hardest thing when re-creating a vintage watch design is knowing when to stop. Some changes — swapping the plexiglass crystal for sapphire, and upgrading the movement — are logical, and others, like an increase in size to more modern dimensions, make sense. But the real art is knowing where to stop, and what…

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02.09.2019

Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

Editor's note: Steel sports is all well and good, but there's something very appealing about the iconic Datejust in this steel and gold livery, with a warm brown dial and diamond hour markers. Especially with that bezel and band. Primo … There are two main contenders for the title of 'most recognisable watch in the world', both of them made by Rolex. Naturally, the Submariner has a good shot at the title but, for me, the clear winner is the Datejust. First introduced in 1945, it includes one of the most useful and ubiquitous complications – a date window. Like many features…

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01.09.2019

A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph

Editor's note: Some watches you can't get out of your head, and the fun and friendly TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph from 2018 is one such watch. We can't get over those pops of colour! The story in a second: Classic Carrera. More colour. If you spend more than a few minutes in the sometimes crazy world of watches, it's easy to lose perspective. You can very quickly get caught up in the hullabaloo of new this, in-house that, and proprietary the other. But while all that stuff is cool and sometimes really matters, at the end of the…

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31.08.2019

6 of the best Longines Heritage releases

Editor's note: Few brands play their heritage cards as strongly as Longines. Certainly it helps that the brand has more heritage than most to work with, so much so that we're practically spoiled for choice. Here are Cameron's six top picks from the Longines Heritage lineup … Right now in the world of watchmaking, there's a distinctly warm and fuzzy feeling of nostalgia in the air. A sentiment that is owed in no small part to Longines, who more than 10 years ago pioneered the popular heritage reissue trend we all know and love today. With a history that stretches…

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30.08.2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 4 — the St Exupéry collection

Ladies and gentlemen, we've begun our descent. Now that we've completed our overview of the Top Gun, Spitfire and Classic collections we'd ask you to stow your tray tables and please pay attention to the final instalment in our series – the IWC Pilot's St Exupéry collection. Now, IWC's St Exupéry watches are named for the famed author of Le Petit Prince, who was also, it turns out, a pioneering aviator, and he was lost during a reconnaissance flight over the Mediterranean in 1944. IWC's watches honouring the man and his works take two main forms — the Le Petit…

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30.08.2019

The Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu is a winner of a watch

Editor's note: This watch might not be the newest release but, by gosh, it's as fresh today as the day it passed final quality control. We take another look at the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu … Ulysse Nardin pulled out all the stops for its first SIHH showing. In a fair characterised by conservative product releases, the Le Locle-based manufacturer presented a strong line-up of novelties, with a strong nautical theme. Highlights included the new regatta timer, the technically impressive Marine Grand Deck, as well as this watch – the Classico Manufacture Grand Feu. This very traditional timepiece is jam-packed with smart…

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29.08.2019

8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos

Editor's note: A little while ago we went off-script with our watch coverage, making a short, snappy series of videos that — in a decidedly tongue-in-cheek manner — aimed to assist you in your Tudor purchasing decision. Here's our take on the archetypal Tudor Pelagos wearer. And if you've got a Pelagos on your wrist and you're not wearing a single item of Patagonia, isn't it time you questioned your life choices? "Which watch should I get?" It's the first, and hardest, question to answer for any watch lover (shortly followed by "which watch should I get next?"), and our…

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29.08.2019

Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla

Editor's note: Not everything in the watch world has to be same-samey. And the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla is a great example of that. It's got two crowns, a big, cushiony case and style for days. If left-of-centre is your thing, you'll want to have a read of Andy's review … A parcel recently landed on my desk. It had made the journey all the way from the United Kingdom, and it contained two pieces from British microbrand Farer Universal. Launched earlier this year, these models made waves with their colourful dials and brightly accentuated designs. So when the opportunity…

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28.08.2019

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor's note: It's 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I've got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph is a fabulous looking example. Here's Justin's review from when it was released, back in 2018 … There's no denying how many of us are often frustrated by the frequent "mild updates" launched by brands — new dial colours, new case and bezel materials,…

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27.08.2019

Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch

Editor's note: Last night, Longines went live with their online shopping facility, and I've spent a bit of time browsing what's on offer. And it should come as no surprise that I'm pretty into the 'heritage' section of the site. And one watch, which I saw last year and was really taken by, is the Longines Skin Diver. So I thought the timing was right for another look … Longines heritage reissues are — much like the designs they're inspired by — the stuff of legend. And speaking of legends, you might notice that the dial design of the Skin…

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26.08.2019

Our 3 favourite Longines models available to buy in Australia, in store … and online

Longines has had a big few months in Australia. They opened their first Melbourne boutique a little while back, on Collins Street in the heart of the city's luxury district. And now their watches are available online, direct from the brand. It's something that would have been unimaginable even a few years ago — a major Swiss brand, selling directly online. But it's 2019 and the future is digital. Well, except for the watches, that is — they're resolutely analogue, and proudly mechanical. In celebration of this upcoming e-commerce launch, Andrew dropped into the boutique to choose his picks that…

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26.08.2019

Dive into the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic

Editor's note: Sometimes, amid all the hullaballoo around specifications, it's easy to forget what makes watches fun. Sure, helium escape valves can play a part in that. But if we're completely honest, it's about how a watch looks on the wrist, and makes us feel. And by those metrics, the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic is a winner … Over the years I've had a few run-ins with UK-based brand Christopher Ward, having reviewed some of their older world time and jump hour watches. I've never tried one of their more mainline pieces on for size though, but when I…

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Seiko Presage Cocktail Time, travel pouch, leather strap

26.08.2019

5 great watch-related gifts you can buy for Father's Day from the Time+Tide Shop

Down here in Australia, Father's Day is celebrated on September 1, which happens to be — wait for it — this Sunday, AKA a mere six sleeps away. Which, in the scheme of retail and everyone's busy life, isn't that long at all. So, as a helpful reminder, we've put together five banging Father's Day gifts from our shop, which, if you order them quick smart, should make it in time. Failing that, you can always print off the confirmation email and pop it in with a nice card. So whether you're a watch-loving dad who's looking to helpfully forward…

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26.08.2019

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions

Editor's note: Being a pilot who's into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that's the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here's a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, what's your daily watch and why? I don't have a daily watch per se, though I have my eye on a particular piece right now, so that may change soon! I bought all my watches to wear, so I tend to rotate them as much…

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24.08.2019

Would Lil Yachty rock this Rolex Yacht-Master 40? Who knows, but it's cool

Editor's note: If you ever want to flex down at the NBAYOUNGBOAT Club, you want to have the appropriate attire — jacket, loafers, watch. And when it comes to the latter, we suggest the Yacht-Master. Surely, Lil Yachty would approve. This cool, calm and collected new Yacht-Master almost slipped past me. I was too busy falling in love (again) with the gold and chocolate Rolesor Yacht-Master, which was distracting me and dazzling my senses. But then, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a flash of almost-iridescent blue, and my curiosity was piqued. I'm so glad it was, because…

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23.08.2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 3 – the Classic collection

We're now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot's family — we've covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we're hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches form the core of the collection, and are all about simplicity, function and legibility. Andrew picked out two key models from the line and, in some ways, they're polar opposites, even though the visual similarities are very strong. The IWC Big Pilot's watch Large, and…

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23.08.2019

ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia

Welcome to the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey! That time when we put some hard-hitting questions into a survey program, work some internet magic and set it free, for all you good people out there to answer. One lucky Australian survey respondent will win a TAG Heuer Autavia chronograph for their troubles. Take the survey now You should be familiar with this heritage-inspired chronograph, but if you're not — here's what you need to know. International folks are welcome to take part, and we encourage you to, but sadly the international competition logistics make it practically impossible to open such a…

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best watches on bracelets

23.08.2019

3 things you need to know about the Seiko Prospex LX collection

Editor's note: The Seiko Prospex LX collection has finally hit Australian shores, so we thought we'd revisit this piece from Baselworld, where the design guru largely responsible for the look of the new line dropped some LX-oriented knowledge … Seiko's Baselworld press conference is one of my few must-not-miss appointments, if only for a much-needed dose of humour. But for me, the real star of this year's affair was Ken Okuyama. Mr Okuyama is an industrial designer with an eponymous studio, who made his name in the world of prestige cars, with a folio including such epic vehicles as the…

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22.08.2019

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris

Editor's note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn't cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it's a few years old, I still can't get out of my head. Here's Cam's review … The story in a second: Disco might be dead, but the '70s live on in Oris' latest re-edition. A decade for experimentation, the '70s was an era of bold shapes and brightly coloured designs (men's…

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21.08.2019

Another look at the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph

Editor's note: In the last few years Montblanc has made quite the pivot away from the dressier end of the watch spectrum, to some sportier, more robust models. Case in point, the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph from a few years ago now. While Montblanc is not a mainstream chronograph brand, with watches this smart, it's certainly worth a look … Earlier this year I had a chance to have a look at Montblanc's pre-SIHH offerings in scenic Wyoming, including this smart new evolution of the TimeWalker, the TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph. There are two big changes to this 43mm sports chronograph;…

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20.08.2019

Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq

Editor's note: When we're talking about fine watches, our eyes are typically drawn to Switzerland and (to a lesser extent) Germany and Japan. But occasionally you can find some quality closer to home. That was the case when the Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer landed on my desk around this time last year. The quality (especially in the case) is up there with the mid-tier Swiss guys, and the look is a little less cookie-cutter than what you typically get from your average upstart offering. Read on … Given that T+T is an Australian-based site, I've spent a fair amount of…

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19.08.2019

The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph

Editor's note: This year we've been a little guilty of gushing all over the brand spanking new Octo Finissimo Chronograph, but it's worth remembering that this shiny new star isn't the only Octo Chrono in the mix. Meet the definitely not thin Bulgari Octo Chronograph … One of the marks of a strong watch design is that it can be reimagined without losing its potency. Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or pretty well any Rolex are all excellent examples of this rule. The same goes for the Octo — a distinct watch that didn't actually begin its life with…

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18.08.2019

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

Editor's note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they're not front of mind, they're in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on … The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it's nice to stop and look back on the…

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18.08.2019

A closer look at TAG Heuer's Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic

Editor's note: Earlier this week we had a look at a few TAG Heuer Tourbillons, including the impressive new Nanograph — with its fancy new carbon escapement and yellow highlights. But we've also still got the hots for one of the original models, this all-black beauty clad in ultra-tough ceramic. Dark, meet handsome. Owning a tourbillon is a dream for many watch-loving folks. The little, eternally whirling cages, designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a timepiece's isochronism, aren't particularly practical, though they hold within them a charm that in many ways sums up the appeal of mechanical watches.…

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17.08.2019

The ultimate watch glossary – the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest

In the latest instalment of our glossary series (you can see all our educational style content here), we tackle one of the most overlooked (and most important) elements of a watch. The bit that attached it to your wrist – buckles and clasps in all their forms … The tang buckle, also known as the pin or ardillon buckle The most common type of buckle in the watch industry. The Tang/Pin/Ardillon buckle looks very much like a traditional belt buckle. The tail end of the strap is threaded through the loop of the buckle, and held in place by…

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17.08.2019

All aboard the Omega Railmaster

Editor's note: A little while ago, someone on a FB watch group I'm part of asked what watch they should buy (out of three versatile, black-dialled tool watches), with one option being the Omega Railmaster. I didn't have to think about my answer. It was the Railmaster. Hands down. Read on for my reasons why … Odd as it may seem today, but many of the enduring designs of mid-20th century watchmaking sprang from a very specific purpose: scientific exploration and the quest for accuracy. The Omega Railmaster, one of their original professional models, stands alongside other great names like…

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16.08.2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 2 – the Spitfire collection

Following on from last week's look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome black and steel, or a particularly warm bronze and olive green. The bronze alloy is not the bright bronze that you might expect, and already has a world-worn feel that plays well with the military-inspired olive green dial. The other standout feature of this collection…

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15.08.2019

Rolex reach for the skies with the Sky-Dweller

Editor's pick: The Rolex Sky-Dweller is, along with the Yacht-Master II, the most complex offering in the brand's current catalogue. Two time zones, an elegant calendar and a very, very cool bezel make for a serious piece of watchmaking. Add in the simplified dials and Rolesor cases of this latest batch and it's a watch that's stratospheric. For years, the Sky-Dweller has been one of the most interesting and least understood modern Rolexes. It's one of the most complicated watches in their lineup, as a luxury traveller's watch, and is the patrician elder brother of the tool-like GMT-Master II. This…

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14.08.2019

Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado Captain Cook 45mm

Editor's note: Rado's star is firmly in ascendance these days, and that's thanks to watches like their popular Captain Cook Reissue. And while we've got a whole lot of love for the smaller versions, sometimes — no matter what people say — size does matter. So, how about 45mm of Rado Captain Cook goodness? Rado's HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch-perfect 37mm reissue. And while there's a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that's OK because…

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10.08.2019

What you need to know before buying a vintage watch

There are many potential pitfalls you could encounter when buying a luxury watch. Especially if it's your first time. The desire to make a seasoned choice right off the bat is understandable, but it's important you don't put too much pressure on yourself to get it exactly right first time. In fact, making mistakes is part of the fun, and definitely part of the learning process. It certainly doesn't feel like a barrel of laughs when you make a purchase that turns out to be a total waste of money, but you'll never make that mistake again. If you find…

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09.08.2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 1 – the Top Gun collection

IWC is famous for their pilot's watches, and rightfully so — they're instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose — as a navigational tool for aviators — the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. Today, IWC's pilot's family consists of four distinct sub-collections: Spitfire, the Saint Exupéry watches, the Classics, and the boldly modern Top Gun selection. Over the next four weeks we're going to explore each of these groups in detail, kicking off with Top Gun. Top Gun,…

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09.08.2019

The watches we bought because someone told us to

Editor's note: Last year we did a team whip around and asked ourselves what watches we bought, not for us, but because other people told us we should. We might not like to admit it, but it's true. So here we go, the watches we've bought because of peer pressure. Humans are, by and large, social creatures. We thrive in communities, and derive strength, support and inspiration from others. At least, that's the view if you're an optimist. If you're a glass half empty kinda person, feel free to replace the word community with mob. Either way, these broad general…

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07.08.2019

A brief history of time – as seen by Chanel

Editor's note: Chanel has been making watches for a little while now, but in recent years they've been rocketing up the cool, and the credibility stakes. But this spirit of change and commitment doesn't emerge from a vacuum, as Sandra discovers … It's a paradox that a luxury house as conspicuously feminine as Chanel should always have had a gender-bending streak. So here comes a quick bit of fashion history – and before you watch geeks roll your eyes and change the channel, let me say that this will help explain everything about Chanel's watches. Including why they are not…

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07.08.2019

Unfathomably inky – Moser's Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

Editor's note: Without doubt, the most popular dial colour for men's watches is black. So, here's the blackest, darkest dial we can think of — the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. To find out why this watch is so impossibly dark of dial, read on … Few colours have the symbolic weight of black. It's meaningful in pretty much every culture. It's associated — naturally enough — with darkness, mourning and solemnity, and with endings and beginnings. It's also a colour of power and authority. All these associations and emotions are tied up in Moser's latest conceptual…

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05.08.2019

5 affordable vintage watch options

Watch collecting has never been more present in the public consciousness. Before the quartz revolution of the 1970s, the idea of collecting watches was probably akin to collecting modern vacuum cleaners. It just didn't make much sense. An old watch wasn't vintage; it was just old. And a watch that was still ticking, and keeping time to a reasonable degree? Well, that was just fine and dandy. Perhaps a very well-to-do man might have had one watch for work, and another for special occasions, but these faithful companions would have been expected to remain with him for years and years…

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Rolex Daytona Rainbow most exciting chronographs of 2018

01.08.2019

The 11 most exciting chronographs of 2018

For some, money is no object. For most, this is far from the case, but still an enjoyable intellectual exercise of "what if". So, what if you win the lottery, and after taking care of the dull administrative duties (mortgage, student loan, etc), you decide to treat yourself to a couple of nice watches and, in this hypothetical, these watches will be chronographs? Lucky for you, we've prepared a list just for this circumstance — the most exciting chronographs of 2018. TAG HEUER MONACO CALIBRE 11 BAMFORD LIMITED EDITION When it comes to the customisation of watches, George Bamford is considered…

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31.07.2019

Will the next 007 be a woman? And if so, will she wear a Seamaster?

Editor's note: The other week, the Bond-centric rumour mill (which is an oddly specific, but proliferate sub-genre of the internet) went wild over (entirely unsubstantiated) reports of 007 being replaced by Lashana Lynch (note, she's cited as being the next 007, not the next Bond). It seems like the sort of story tailor-made to drive the internet into a frenzy — flipping the gender switch on traditional masculine icons seems to be quite en vogue right now. And while a black, female 007 is something we can very much get behind, the real question is what would her watch be? Omega, obviously,…

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Rolex GMT Master II BLNR Swiss Watch Luxury

30.07.2019

What makes a watch a keeper?

Editor's note: Flipping is one of the hot-button watch issues of 2019, and TBH we're a little over it. So here's the other side of the equation — what makes a watch a keeper? In this story from a few years back we asked our readers what made their watches keepers, and then we chimed in on the personal keepers … Without getting too first-year political science on you – the basis of modern life is disposability. We live in a consumer society. And that's what we do – we consume. Everything is designed to be discarded and replaced with…

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29.07.2019

10 great chronographs under $10K

Chronographs are both one of the most popular complications on a wristwatch, as well as one of the most challenging to produce. That said, you don't have to take out a bank loan to have a quality chronograph in your watch, so we've compiled a list of 10 great chronographs under $10K. BALTIC BICOMPAX 001 SLATE GREY Like many of the watch world's latest start-ups, French brand Baltic had their break on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, raising more than €500,000 and offering customers the choice of two vintage-inspired models – a time-only and a dual register chronograph. Inspired by the step-case…

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29.07.2019

Have watch will travel, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC in steel

Editor's note: These days, Girard-Perregaux might be best known for their sporty Laureato line, but they have a rich tradition in dressier pieces, which sit in their 1966 collection. This world timer, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC, is a case in point — an excellent, dressier take on a complication that traditionally leans to the busier side of life. Read on for the review … Girard-Perregaux is one of Swiss watchmaking's best-kept secrets. The La Chaux-de-Fonds based brand offers a complete — and compelling — package, fine pedigree, and a catalogue that ranges from the highest of high horology through to…

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28.07.2019

To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection

Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I'd assume that's because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you're about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you're doing so because you think it will make you rich, don't. If you started (or are about to start) collecting watches because you love them, welcome to the club. Everyone's watch journey is different. They can depend on means and opportunities, or tastes and trends, or any number of…

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27.07.2019

This charming watch – explaining the Tudor Heritage Advisor

Editor's note: I've always had a real soft spot for the Tudor Heritage Advisor. Not only is the alarm one of my favourite complications, but this watch — for all that it's an outlier in the current catalogue — is a hugely important piece in the modern rebirth of Tudor. Read on to find out why … Last year, Tudor unveiled its first manufacture movement to nigh-on internet-breaking levels of fanfare and buzz. So impressive was the MT-5621 that it overshadowed the retro-modern North Flag that showcased it. But it's a little remarked upon fact that Tudor's first foray into in-house happened way…

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27.07.2019

5 of the best affordable dress watches 

Affordability is a difficult thing to pin down. What is easily affordable for one person may be eternally out of reach for another. So, to avoid making too many assumptions, this article will include five watches that each feature in a different price bracket. These are picks for five of the best affordable dress watches in their respective categories. Under $1000, the Hamilton Ardmore $650 AUD There's been a rumour abounding for years that Richard Gere wears a Hamilton Ardmore. While the veracity of that claim is hard to pin down, it certainly wouldn't look out of place on his…

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26.07.2019

Eureka! Joining the Casio gold rush

Editor's note: I'll be honest, there is a part of me that really likes this watch. There is something about a gold-tone full-metal G-Shock that appeals to the same part of my brain that is excited by a solid gold Doxa; it's a part tickled by totally unnecessary extravagance that is just so fun. Luckily, Cam put together his thoughts on what it's like to own one of these nuggets, which is well worth a read if you haven't yet. I have a confession to make: In 2018, I, Cameron Wong, did not purchase a single watch for myself. Not…

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26.07.2019

Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase

Editor's pick: If you're in the market for a massive, 45mm manually winding dress watch with more power than you can shake a mainspring at, we think the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase might just be up your alley … Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I've got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized IWC Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it's because there's a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of power, but partially I think…

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Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune

25.07.2019

A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune

Editor's note: Dive watches tend to be simple affairs, but not always. Justin embraces complexity (and calendars) in his review of the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune. Read on … The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection — especially one with such a rich history as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms — is a challenge at the best of times. Do you stick to classic tool watch roots? Do you step outside the box with a complication or design with more commercial appeal? Do you start toying with…

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25.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren't so safe

It's long been a staple of watch collecting advice and lore — don't keep your watches in your sock drawer or consumer-grade safe, keep them in a safe deposit box. Well, that old adage is looking a little stretched on the basis of a recent article in The New York Times, which recounts the harrowing tale of a watch collector who rocked up to his bank one day to discover his collection of watches gone. And it wasn't the result of a daring heist, instead the much more banal human error. Even worse, he had precious little legal recourse or…

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24.07.2019

Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT

Editor's note: Bruce doesn't write for us too much, but when he does, it's absolute gold. From his classic Batman review to this extended wear of the Tudor Black Bay GMT. A great, insightful take on one of the hottest pieces in the market right now. When the Tudor Black Bay GMT debuted this year at Basel it would've been easy to describe it as being overshadowed by the much-hyped Rolex GMT that was also showcased. But it's not that simple. The Tudor is a hit in its own right, and I knew I had to have one. I had…

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IWC TRIBUTE TO PALLWEBER EDITION “150 YEARS”

24.07.2019

Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018

For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of tracking rotating spokes around a circle, who want something simpler (or more complex), these are the watches for you. Employing discs, screens, apertures and even revolving orbs, this is our shortlist of the best watches without hands from 2018. G-SHOCK GMWB5000D-1 35TH ANNIVERSARY SILVER ALL…

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22.07.2019

5 of the best affordable chronographs — from quartz to mechanical

We analyse a lot of watches on a daily basis. Being able to identify the difference between a sales pitch and a practical benefit to the end-user is something we take very seriously. We see swathes of new brands attempting to differentiate themselves from their peers through a variety of creative strategies on the regular. But perhaps the most common area of manipulation is price. It is common now to hear an identikit spiel from the majority of new brands looking for crowdfunding. It is so common to offer luxury at an accessible price that it's about as effective as shouting…

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22.07.2019

The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5

Editor's note: I've got a real soft spot for the TAG Heuer Link — and indeed for integrated bracelets more generally. It's such an evocative design for the brand, and one that is due for a serious comeback (if everything else '90s is an indication). So, have another look at the cool, clear lines of the latest Link in Cam's review … For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It's an age when we're expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly…

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22.07.2019

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Editor's note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn't yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five — it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at … The story in a second: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five really could be a case study as to what a truly excellent vintage reissue should look like – all the elements are there, including classic good looks, fidelity to an historic model, contemporary convenience and credit card-friendly price.…

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21.07.2019

Ultimate transparency — Hublot's sapphire evolution, in 13 watches

Editor's note: While Hublot didn't create the first sapphire-cased watch (that honour goes to Alain Silberstein of all people), the big, bold brand has done an impressive amount of work in a relatively short time to make the ultra-hard, ultra-cool case material mainstream. Don't believe us? Here's Sandra's 2017 timeline of how it went down … First things first, what is sapphire crystal? Essentially, it's the same stuff used to make a watch 'glass' and display casebacks, formed by crystallising aluminium oxide at very high temperatures to create an extremely hard material. Roughly speaking, it mimics what Earth has taken…

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21.07.2019

No downsides to the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down

Editor's note: The other day I caught up with someone who'd recently picked up an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down, and holding it in my hand — by golly gosh, those German guys at ALS know their way around a watch. This piece might not be their most complicated or most hyped, but it's pretty perfect … Even though there's no doubt that the darlings of A. Lange & Söhne's lineup are the more contemporarily styled pieces like the Lange One and the Zeitwerk, there's still a place for deeply traditional design in the catalogue of Glashütte's favourite son…

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20.07.2019

Set sail for glory with the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur

Editor's note: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur is a very interesting watch — a mix of modern build and very, very classical design. It's a winner. Story in a second The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur shows a new, focused and driven face of Ulysse Nardin. I'm going to start this review talking not about mechanical watches, but naval warfare. In the late 19th and early 20th century, naval dominance was all about massive floating fortresses, with thick plate armour and a massed battery of cannons. These ships, which culminated in the dreadnought class of battleships, were the undisputed masters of…

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19.07.2019

That time we got into a fight over Hermès

Editor's note: OK, so 'fight' might be a touch hyperbolic, but back when the Hermès Slim d'Hermès was first released it caused quite a stir. The most ardent fans were Ceri and Felix, and this is an account of their slightly tête-à-tête over this elegant, well-designed watch … The story in a second With a slender profile, top-notch movement and a dial to die for, the Slim d'Hermès has a lot more going for it than just the name. Hermès might be better known for its much-coveted Birkin bags than high-end horology, but the Slim d'Hermès looks set to change all that. First unveiled in 2015,…

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19.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner

Editor's note: People love seeing the insides of a Rolex. Perhaps it's because of their popularity or perhaps it's the fact that their insides are always hidden behind a solid caseback. Whatever the reason, people love the chance to get a glimpse at these industrially impressive machines. So, here's another look at that time Peter Speake-Marin took the mighty Rolex Submariner apart. If you follow the world of independent watchmaking you're likely familiar with the name Peter Speake-Marin. Until recently, Speake-Marin was the man behind the eponymous watch brand. After 17 years, the English watchmaker stepped away from the brand…

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BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO SKELETON

18.07.2019

The lovely bones – Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue

Editor's note: If you look at the profile of this Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue, there isn't a lot to see. That's because the watch is so darned thin! But the dial-side more than makes up for it, because Bulgari has cut the dial open, exposing all manner of goodness inside. Read on for Cam's review … The story in a second: So thin you can see through it. If you were to summarise Bulgari's approach to design and modern-day watchmaking, the Octo would be the result. In less than a decade, the Italian manufacturer has turned a single…

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18.07.2019

The case, the dial, the Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar

Editor's note: You know heritage has moved from 'trend' to 'the new normal' when Patek Philippe (that most conservative of Swiss mavens) release what is, essentially, a heritage re-release, back in 2017 … Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hardcore collectors has slipped into the mainstream, and somewhere along the way it became a key pillar in major brands' release strategies. In 2007 it was very much novelty, now it's the new normal. Case in point is Patek Philippe's hero model of 2017 – the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, an undeniably handsome…

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17.07.2019

It's complicated – the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel

Editor's note: If big, do-anything, go-anywhere tickers are your jam, you'll definitely want to check out the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel. This is a serious piece of traveller's kit, and a good-looking one at that. Read on for Justin's review … The story in a second: It's big, it's complicated, it's bloody clever. I've said it once and I'll say it again: I've got a real soft spot for German watchmaking, but especially for Glashütte Original. Underappreciated, and painfully under-marketed anywhere outside of Europe, they are one of VERY few brands that manufacture their own dials and cases…

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17.07.2019

Feeling thin with the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin date pink gold

Editor's note: A little while ago, Andrew spent a week with the slender beauty that is the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin date, an unusual expedition into the world of ultra-slim dress watches. So, here goes … This week on the wrist is borne almost purely out of curiosity. I have tried on Piaget Altiplano watches over the years and found them unusually comfortable to wear. In interviews and conversations with Altiplano owners, there's always a resounding refrain of, "It's hard to go back to heavier/larger/thicker watches once you get used to it". So, when given the chance to have an…

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16.07.2019

Everything you need to know about the Cartier Tank

Editor's note: The Cartier Tank is a watch with an incredible century (and then some) history, and a list of famous fans as long as your arm. Sandra runs through some of the variants on this classic watch, and some of its celebrity owners. Outstanding. For any designer, regardless of product type, the holy grail is to create an object that so perfectly balances form and function and so elegantly expresses an aesthetic that it will not only last for many generations but will forever look as modern as it did when it left the drawing board. Among those rare…

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15.07.2019

A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high

Editor's note: Beyond being one of the greatest tennis players of our time, Novak Djokovic is a pretty great watch ambassador. He's been with Seiko since 2014, and over the years the watch he's most often seen wearing (and occasionally lending his name to a limited edition) is the Astron. So, after he beat Roger Federer to claim the Wimbledon men's final in an epic match (four hours and 57 minutes!), it was no surprise to see him with an Astron on his wrist as he claimed the cup. Specifically, he was wearing the latest titanium-cased Seiko Astron 5X, the…

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15.07.2019

Dialled in for speed – the Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer

Editor's note: For some reason we can't quite place (one small step might have something to do with it though), we've got the Speedmaster on our mind. And while this Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer we first looked at in 2017 isn't particularly limited or hype-y, it's still a super hot version of THE chronograph … The case It's a Speedmaster, so no real surprises with the case. It looks and feels much like every other Speedmaster, except for its contemporary dimensions: it clocks in larger than your regular Speedy, at a not insubstantial 44.25mm wide, but it wears well,…

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14.07.2019

44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G)

Editor's note: Sure, the mighty Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G to its friends) might lack the fancy dials of the Snowflake and the new manual-wind Spring Drives but, good golly, it makes up for it in sheer presence. The case, the bezel, the gold detailing. It bangs. It's fair to say that much of Grand Seiko's catalogue leans towards the dressier end of the spectrum — but, of course, there are exceptions, and the SBGE215G is a perfect example. This sporty GMT is an evolution of the SBGE201G; it shares the same large 44mm case. But…

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14.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How the Rolex Submariner became an icon and inspired legions of copycats

For many, the Rolex Submariner is the watch. The default, the archetype. In some ways the watch has transcended its original function and become a totemic symbol for aspiration, class and cool. It is, after all, the original watch of James Bond. On the other hand, it's still a superlative tool, designed for the dangerous job of diving, a job it still excels at. The fact that the Sub can balance these two faces has a lot to do with its success. As does its long, sustained production run and the fact that a Submariner from 1954 will look pretty…

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13.07.2019

The heavy-hitting Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509)

Editor's note: For Daytona fans, everyone's all about the Cerachrom bezels these days. And while it's hard to deny the allure of that super-hard, slick material, I prefer my bezels metal, and preferably precious. Which is why I'm still so into this 2016 release, the Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509). I mean, just check it out … Two thousand and sixteen will surely go down in the annals of watch-lore as the year of the Daytona. Not only did Rolex finally update their stainless steel icon, but they also unveiled two new precious metal versions.…

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09.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Ever wonder how many Kickstarter watches actually get off the ground?

For better or worse, Kickstarter is now a firmly entrenched part of the watch production, retail and marketing landscape. Watches have historically been a phenomenally popular category on the crowdfunding platform, but for every glittering success story, there's an equal number of projects left on the cutting room floor. If you're the kind of curious cat who's wanted to know more about the data behind Kickstarter watch projects, boy is it your lucky day. WatchPro posted this snazzy report from Swiss consulting company Mercury Project, who break down the data in interesting, and meaningful ways. Turns out just more than half…

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09.07.2019

The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic

Editor's note: The other day I was spending some time at my local Blancpain stockist, and I found my eyes consistently being drawn to the Bathyscaphe (which was only a little awkward as I was meant to be checking out Blancpain's 2019 releases, which was a decidedly Bathyscaphe-free zone). And while the Bathy is offered in a few variants, one of the coolest is the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic … Blancpain's Bathyscaphe is one of those rare, chameleonic watch designs. A watch that, broadly speaking, owes great fidelity to its primogenitor, but a watch that doesn't look…

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Wilma Gin Still

07.07.2019

Gin in the game – 3 of the best Australian gins

It used to be that a bottle of Tanqueray 10, Bombay Sapphire or Plymouth Dry London Gin marked the pinnacle of class and sophistication at your local bottle shop. Now, if you stumble into any national, mega-mart boozer, it's the Aussie gins that receive top nods. So when did Australian gins become so cool and are they going to stay that way? We'd say it's around the time vodka was out. That would be when the internet became an everyman's amenity and bartenders no longer had to scrimp and save for an educational pilgrimage to New York anymore. They could…

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07.07.2019

The ultimate watch glossary – chronograph scales. What they mean and how they work

Over the last few weeks we've written three (count them, one, two and three) pieces explaining the what of watches. Thus far we've been pretty general, but today we get a lot more particular. Today we're talking chronograph scales — those numbers at the edge of the dial that we're pretty sure no one really uses. But they do have a function. And here are three of the more common variants you'll see … Tachymeter scale The tachymeter is far and away the most common scale printed on the bezel or the dial of a chronograph. Often associated with racing…

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Rolex Professional

06.07.2019

The fresh-faced Rolex Air-King ref. 116900

Editor's note: The Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 is the brand's entry into their world of professional watches, but it's also a piece that stands out in the line-up, thanks to its unusual dial layout and colourful logo. We take another look at this now three-year-old watch, below. Rolex famously espouses a philosophy of evolution, not revolution – and its product releases are so reliably incremental that you could, well, set your watch by them. Except when they're not. Every so often, Rolex does something that breaks from its evolutionary mantra. Witness the Sky-Dweller, the platinum Daytona and now, the latest generation of…

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05.07.2019

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

Editor's note: With the announcement of Tudor's ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019, we found our minds turned, inexplicably, to the darker things in life. And while the chances of owning that dark phantom are slender, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark is a much more achievable goal … The story in a second: It's time you met the dark horse of the Black Bay family. After four years of tantalising, tactical releases culminating in the near-perfect surprise announcement of the Black Bay Black last year, we weren't expecting a new Black Bay in 2016. Well, we were wrong.…

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05.07.2019

VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont's 2019 collection

When Bremont burst onto the scene more than 10 years ago they were disruptive outsiders in a staid and often slow-moving industry. Since that time, the brand has gone from strength to strength — something that's reflected in the solid, no-nonsense watches they make. And the Bremont 2019 collection is no exception, as we found out from co-founder Nick English … Bremont S300 White "It stemmed from the Supermarine … and the 300 is the 40mm version of that. We've come up with a white dial with a blue ceramic polished bezel, which is very, very lovely." Bremont MBIII 10th…

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04.07.2019

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer

Editor's note: The longer I spend around watches, the less I find myself in bells and whistles (Patek alarms and Jaquet Droz excepted). In fact, I find myself more and more drawn to simple, pure designs that just work. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a perfect example of this. On the surface there's nothing flashy or fancy about this watch. But it's precisely this steadfast design and supreme versatility that makes this watch such a winner … It's easy to think of the Carrera as purely a collection of chronographs, as that complication is where its roots…

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02.07.2019

That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it

Editor's note: If you spend more than a few minutes in that wonderful (and terrifying) thing that is the watch community, you'll quickly become familiar with the larger-than-life figure that is Adam Craniotes. Today we found out that Adam has just become the Editor-in-Chief of Revolution USA, for which he has our heartfelt congratulations. So, we thought we would celebrate by digging out this video of the man himself telling tall tales about his watch, and the chicanery he went to to acquire it. If you like watches (you do) and exist in a digital age (also affirmative) there's a…

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02.07.2019

Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor's note: Trust Breguet to take the comparatively uncomplicated act of adding a second time zone into something extra. Rather than your typical GMT hand scenario, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 demonstrates a very cool, very technical twist on the complication. Read on for Sandra's review … The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 made its first appearance in 2011, to an enthusiastic reception. Then, in 2016, when Breguet launched an updated version (ref. 5727) they spoke of it as a replacement for the original. But some things are simply too special to discontinue. Thank goodness – for we…

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30.06.2019

The incredible history of the Breitling Emergency

Editor's note: If you want to impress someone with how cool your watch is, it's hard to beat the Breitling Emergency. We revisit Ben's story from a few years back to find out why … There are few watches that live up to their marketing hype, and even fewer that can claim to have genuinely saved lives. Breitling has long been considered the pilot's watch of choice, but it was the Breitling Emergency that solidified the company's commitment to aviators and adventurers around the world with one truly unique complication — the personal locator beacon. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this…

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30.06.2019

Why I lie about the number of watches I own

Editor's note: Cam wrote this snappy little opinion piece for us last year, and you know what — we still don't know how many watches he owns. More than two, and less than 20 … we think. I think we've all found ourselves in a similar situation. You're at a BBQ, surrounded by friends and family, and everything is going great. The food is good, the drinks are cold, and the stereo is pumping out banger after banger, like it was playing straight from your Spotify playlist. While all around you the conversations are flowing and everyone is happily mingling.…

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29.06.2019

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original?

Editor's note: It's an tricky question, but the new Railmaster makes a compelling case for the 'yes' camp … Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn't the only Railmaster released last year. No, there's also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch that formed (along with the Speedmaster and the Seamaster) one part of the triumvirate of watches that makes up the 1957 Trilogy series. The version not included in the boxed set is limited to 3557 pieces, and, like the rest of the trilogy, is a…

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28.06.2019

You need to follow @jackwongyf on Instagram right now

Editor's note: The other day we posted a bonkers video from @jackwongyf on our Instagram. It was a super ratty Rolex GMT-Master 1675 that had, underneath the grime and scratches, one heck of a surprise. Check it out. And then we remembered that Andy interviewed banker and self-described vintage watch hoarder Jack Wong a little while ago. So, we thought you might enjoy a perspective from the Jack Wong lyf. Hi Jack, what's your daily watch and why? To be honest, I don't have a daily watch, I usually pick something to go with the day's mood. So then, what is…

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27.06.2019

Tom Selleck on why he still wears his 'Magnum, P.I.' Rolex

Editor's note: Men don't come much manlier than Tom Selleck's Magnum, P.I. This guy had it all – the car, the 'stache and, most importantly, the watch. Last year the FHH ran an excellent interview with the man himself and his watch. It's awesome. All that's left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a couple of Hawaiian shirts and my moustache comb. Tom Selleck is Magnum, P.I. For Selleck it's clearly a career-defining role, and for the rest of the world it's a cultural touchpoint for Ferraris, aloha shirts and exceptional moustaches. In this short but informative interview with…

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Laventure Lundis Bleu Eza Australia

26.06.2019

5 of the best microbrands that even watch snobs can get behind

'Microbrand' is one of those contentious watch words — a catch-all term encompassing smaller watch brands typically making, marketing and selling watches outside of the traditional industry pathways. It's a section of the industry that has come a long way in a little time, and these five players are some of the most interesting players in the space right now … Laventure Founded in 2017 by watch industry designer Clément Gaud, Laventure has thus far released two models, the Marine and the Sous-Marine, the latter in both steel and bronze. While the brand has occasionally been criticised for what are…

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24.06.2019

Ever seen this before? The mysterious Rolex Submariner Date ref. 116659 SABR

Editor's note: Most of Rolex's new releases are shown to the press and make it into the catalogue. Sometimes, though, they don't. The gem-set Rolex Submariner Date ref. 116659 SABR is an example of one that didn't. And we were pretty lucky to get to see it at last year's Baselworld … There was a lot of mystery surrounding this piece when it was pulled out of a large green box during our appointment with Rolex at Baselworld. And, to be honest, we were too caught up in the moment, too dazzled by the gemstones, to take it all in…

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23.06.2019

The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more

Editor's note: If you missed instalments one and two of our glossary, you might want to quickly check them out, because now we're in part three, we're starting to get a little more technical. We're moving beyond the basic parts and starting to explore how they operate together. Tick tock. Escapement The escapement is a collection of components responsible for the time-keeping accuracy in a watch. These components work together to act as the timekeeping (or regulating) organ of the watch. Every watch needs an escapement to distribute the impulse from the power source (whatever it may be) to the…

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23.06.2019

Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV

Editor's note: Everyone loves a good celebrity watch-spotting moment – and they don't come much better than that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law one of the coolest watches of modern times, the Bremont MBI. You've probably seen it before, but it's definitely worth another look … Contrary to what you might expect, the greatest asset of English brand Bremont isn't their watches. Their greatest asset is the longstanding and extremely positive relationship with military pilots the world over. And nowhere is this better demonstrated than with the Bremont Martin-Baker MBI, available only to people who have survived a live…

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23.06.2019

Regrets, I've had a few – how to handle watch buying remorse

Editor's note: In an ideal world, buying an expensive watch is a stress-free and seamless affair. But as Cam discovered, that's not always the case … I think we've all found ourselves in a similar situation to this before: you wake up, the morning after a big night out and all is seemingly well. At least until the night's events start trickling back into your mind's eye, and an odd sensation begins to stir deep down inside, giving you the feeling that things are not quite as they should be. You then roll over and notice something lying there next…

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22.06.2019

5 of the best GMT watches that even platinum frequent flying snobs will approve of

In this series of articles, we pick five interesting, less-often reported watches that tick a lot of boxes that seasoned watch collectors frequently look to fill. To make this a worthwhile exercise, we're defining affordable as anything below $5000 AUD. Do you ever get the feeling the entry-level price point is dominated by bland dress watches and a slew of decent, but identikit divers? Sure, we don't expect to see perpetual calendars or tourbillons slumming it down here with us commoners (and if you do see a kickstarter campaign threatening to disrupt the watch industry by creating a tourbillon for…

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22.06.2019

Green, lean and not at all mean – Hublot's Classic Fusion Titanium Green

Editor's note: For all that Hublot is a name strongly associated with big, bold colours (and rightly so, might we add), they're not afraid to show their more subtle side on occasion. Take, for example, this Classic Fusion Titanium Greed – what a dial! This week we're looking at Hublot watches that aren't the Big Bang. Yep, you read that right. For all that the brand is virtually synonymous with their iconic (or is that iconoclastic?) sports watch, it turns out Hublot isn't afraid to show their softer side on occasion. You know what else Hublot has never been afraid…

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21.06.2019

The rugged charm of the Montblanc 1858 Automatic

Editor's note: Most of the attention on Montblanc's 1858 collection is dedicated to their fancy Geosphere model and the chronograph, which is understandable. But just quietly, there's a lot to like about the Montblanc 1858 Automatic – a sporty, simple auto with lovely dials, and well-thought-through details. Read on to find out more … In 2016, Montblanc announced a new line, the 1858, a vintage-inspired sports collection. This year, under the keen direction of Montblanc's Head of Watches Davide Cerrato, the entire 1858 line has received a stylish and oh-so-smart update. There are more complex versions, but the entry-level piece is…

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20.06.2019

Fancy a date with a handsome German? Try the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date

Editor's note: The combination of confidence, sobriety and extreme charm is — if we're completely frank — a winning one. And it's a combination the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date has in spades. Read on for Sandra's review of this classic daily wearer … While the rules about how a man should dress for formal occasions are more relaxed than in the past, they are still governed by the principles of timelessness: elegance, discretion, refinement and restraint. Self-expression and individuality are all very well, but wearing a chunky, sporty watch with a dinner suit (or even a formal…

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19.06.2019

Not your granddad's Patek – the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A

Editor's note: One of the funny quirks of the English language is that there's no word that rhymes with orange. Certainly, Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A doesn't, but don't let that fool you, because this (very) fine fellow, with its orange details and neon strap option, is as orange as the sunset over Miami … One of the more entertaining games to play at Baselworld 2018 is: "Who is Brand X after with this watch?" In some cases the answer can be as clear as mud, but in the case of the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph it's a bit…

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19.06.2019

5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019

Editor's note: There's word on the street that Jaeger-LeCoultre's 2019 collection is in town. And that word is from us, because we're throwing a party to celebrate the fact, tonight. If you're a fan of enamel or the Master Ultra Thin collection, you should be all over these watches. Watch below and you'll see why … The talk of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth at SIHH was the incredible (and incredibly well-sized) Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, but that rare bird was in hot demand, so we didn't manage any quality one-on-one time with it. But that's OK really, as…

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18.06.2019

Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman

Editor's note: Our resident Canadian correspondent Justin is a man of some fairly intense and deeply held passions — at least when it comes to watches. His proclivities for bold straps and quirky indies are immediately apparent if you take even a quick glance at his Instagram. His love for the already iconic (and already discontinued) Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman is a little less top-line, but it's there — all you need to do is scratch the surface. And that's just what Justin did last year when he had a prolonged date with the watch … You all know the feeling.…

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17.06.2019

The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more

Editor's note: Last week we kicked off our series on the ultimate watch glossary — well, now it's back and slightly more complex. Read on if you want to know what really makes your watch tick … Mechanical watch, manual or automatic There are two types of mechanical watch, and the difference comes down to how the watch is wound. A manual watch must be wound by way of the crown, typically once a day, but it depends on power reserve (more on that shortly). This action winds the mainspring around the barrel arbour (the central post in the middle…

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17.06.2019

3 of the best Bulgari watches of 2019

Editor's note: There's something in the fine, crisp Swiss water at chez Bulgari. Their watch design of late has been impressive, to say the least. And, as a recap, here's a look at the hero releases from this year's Baselworld. Enjoy the thinness. Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women's side, there's a new golden serpent to adore. The hero of Bulgari's set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both the style…

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17.06.2019

Looking back at Rado's best heritage watches

Editor's note: Over the last few years, Rado — traditionally the masters of design-y ceramic timepieces — have stepped their heritage game WAY up. Their Captain Cook line, in particular, is a real gem, and a solid value prop. Here's our take on Rado's best heritage watches. Rado isn't a brand that you typically think of when you think about 'heritage'. On the one hand this makes perfect sense, as the brand is best known for their decidedly modern materials and avant-garde designs. But on the other, Rado has been around for a while (since 1917), and has a host…

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16.06.2019

The detailed design of A. Lange & Söhne

Editor's note: Some of my favourite stories on Time+Tide are the series we wrote on the design of A. Lange & Söhne's watches. This first instalment, written by Sandra Lane, explores the German brand's overall design methodology and approach. Well worth another read. "Money likes silence." Several years ago, a Russian collector by the name of Nikolai (he prefers not to publish his surname) was telling me why he's so keen on A. Lange & Söhne, and I was struck by that part of his reply. While he meant it to sum up the 'stealth' appeal of Lange's designs (discreet…

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16.06.2019

On the road with Longines' smart traveller, the V.H.P. GMT

Editor's note: It's not too often you see something genuinely 'new' in the watch space — with all the 'novelties' on offer. The Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, however, is new. The tech inside is user-friendly, smart, and makes for a better watch. And that's something we can get behind. A few weeks ago I travelled to Rome to check out the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, a GMT unlike any other. And in between the first-look video, horse racing and spectacular rooftop launches, we thought we'd do some sightseeing around Rome and put the V.H.P. GMT through…

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15.06.2019

The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar is still an incredibly hot watch

Editor's note: When it was first released back in 2015 (was it four years ago already?!), the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar was hot. And while there's been a lot of watches (including many more Portugiesers), the years have not diminished the appeal of this big business watch. The story in a second The headline act in IWC's 2015 line-up is the Portugieser Annual Calendar, an assured new take on an old favourite. The big question Will people want a watch that's more than a complete calendar, but not quite a perpetual? IWC have declared 2015 to be the year of…

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15.06.2019

The Omega Seamaster Railmaster – an everyday chameleon

Editor's note: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster is an interesting release from Omega – similar in overall form to the Aqua Terra, but with a decidedly neo-vintage flavour. This watch makes a great daily, with a more youthful vibe. The Omega Seamaster Railmaster was one of the surprise hits of last year's Basel fair. So it's vaguely appropriate that as we're busy speculating what we'll see Omega release at Baselworld 2018, we look back on one of their hottest from last season. Not that we realised it at the time – the regular production Seamaster Railmaster was more of a slow…

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14.06.2019

Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket

Editor's note: Nomos is a habitual entrant on our 'best in budget' lists, and there's a very good reason for that. Strong looks, great style and serious credibility all add up to a package that punches hard for its price tag. Case in point, the Nomos Club Campus, which was released at Baselworld a few seasons ago … If you're an avid follower of our Instagram stories, you might have overheard my candid thoughts on the new entry-level Nomos as we captured some scenic pre-Basel scene-setting. As Andrew live-panned a view of the Rhine, I could be heard distinctly in…

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14.06.2019

Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph

Editor's note: To paraphrase Sandra's excellent review of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph — the brand nailed it. Case, movement, dial and all the details are what we want from a heritage style piece in 2019. Pro – it's expected to be hitting the market quite soon. Con – it's limited to 100 pieces globally. When Montblanc gave us a privileged preview of its new Heritage collection in Miami back in October, our gut told us that they had a winner in the salmon-dialled Heritage Pulsograph. Forward three months to SIHH: 36 exhibiting brands and I-don't-know-how-many-hundreds of new watches later, our…

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13.06.2019

5 of the best quartz watches that watch snobs approve of

A lot of the discussion about what makes a watch good value is centred on the mechanics responsible for keeping the time. When those glorious mechanics are removed in favour of a soulless electronic module, many enthusiasts switch off. But this needn't be the end of the discussion. Quartz watches, for all their sins and the brazen mutiny of the '70s, have a lot of good things going for them. Firstly, they are more accurate. That's a pretty short discussion, but it's true. Even if a traditional mechanical watch were able to be so finely tuned that it could keep…

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13.06.2019

4 of the best GMT watches from 2018

Editor's note: There's something about GMTs. Even if you don't travel or do business in far-flung parts of the world, there's a romance and sense of adventure to these timepieces. And 2018 was a particularly strong year for the complication, with a brace of strong offerings. So here's that time Andy and I made awkward puns and chatted about the best GMT watches of Basel 2018. Oh, and if you're really observant, you might notice we mention five watches at the start of the video, but only show four. That's because we had to hold off on talking about this…

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13.06.2019

Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10?

Editor's pick: Whenever I pop into an op shop (or thrift store for our American readers), I always make sure to have a look at the watches, JUST IN CASE. Because you never know, you might just have the level of luck of this guy who, in 2016, picked up a Panerai that turned out to be worth a shade more than the 10 pound asking price … It's happened again. First, this guy found an original LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm in a thrift store. And now, the son of a Cheshire man who bought a Rolex-made Panerai issued to the…

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12.06.2019

The ultimate watch glossary – beginner's edition, from bezels to bracelets

Editor's note: Watches can be intimidatingly confusing things, full of obscure parts with funny names. In this first part of our ongoing series 'The ultimate watch glossary', we start things off nice and slow with some entry-level terms. Even if you're all over these terms, this page is perfect for sharing with your watch-curious buddies … Case The case is the exterior of the watch. It can be made from a range of high-tech or precious materials, but steel is most common. Typically, measurements are provided as the diameter, excluding the crown. Bezel The bezel is the ring that surrounds…

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Rolex price increase

12.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing

In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro's managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and tested method of seeing what sort of actual stock is in stores across the world, and the picture is grim … I have searched the cabinets of authorised dealers in Dubai, central London, Edinburgh, Heathrow and Gatwick Airports, Las Vegas, New York, Los Angeles and…

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12.06.2019

Industrial aesthetics – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold

Editor's note: In the last few years, two-tone watches have moved from fringe to mainstream trend status. And while it's clear that yellow gold has been largely replaced with pink, the other material de rigueur is typically steel. Which is why we're still so into the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold – the perfect meeting of opulence and function. One of the most impressive collections we saw at SIHH 2017 was that of Girard-Perregaux, dominated by the sporty, '70s-inspired Laureato collection. And while most of the Laureatos walked a pretty established product path — a top-end tourbillon, 42 and 38mm…

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12.06.2019

11 of the best Grand Seikos – and why they matter

Editor's note: From dive to dress and some gorgeous dials in between. Cam has a look at 11 of the best Grand Seiko watches of recent times … Just 10 years ago, buying a Grand Seiko meant either having to buy a plane ticket to Japan, convincing a relative/friend/acquaintance/that-guy-you-met-one-time to buy a ticket to Japan, or navigating your way around Japanese online retailers – searching every page for an image of your heart's desire and then using Google translate to confirm that they even offered international shipping. You see, despite having a history that stretches back to 1960, it wasn't…

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08.06.2019

4 winter warmer watches for less than $6K

Editor's note: Things certainly got cold fast in Melbourne, and we're busy working out ways to stay warm. And that includes our wrists … The northern parts of the world might be enjoying long, lazy afternoons of relaxation and summer fun, but down here in Australia things have taken a turn for the cooler. So, to help take the chill off, we've found four winter warmer timepieces to hold you over until the summer months. Bulgari Octo Roma With its dark caramel dial and rich chestnut strap, Bulgari's brand new Octo Roma is the watchmaking equivalent of a well-worn Chesterfield,…

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07.06.2019

Blue heaven is the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic

Editor's note: Few brands have the way with ceramic that Hublot has. The fusion-focused brand has pumped so much colour into the ultra-hard material that it's hard to believe. Take the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic for example … When it was announced last year, I thought Hublot's Orlinski case was one of the freshest, coolest new shapes I'd seen in quite some time. And then they went and released it in blue ceramic and I quietly lost my mind. But before we dive into the blue, let's have a quick refresher on just what — or who —…

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Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

06.06.2019

Diving for squares – the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Editor's note: For years, Bell & Ross has stuck safely to the skies. Then, in 2017, they came for the oceans. And we could not be happier with the switch up. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is a smooth evolution of the brand's famous form … The story in a second: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver transitions smoothly from the sky to the sea. In the time I spent with the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver I came to think of it as an armoured car. Not the conspicuously bulked-up and blinged-out vehicle beloved by…

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06.06.2019

What it's like to wear a crown on your wrist – 24 months with a Rolex Datejust

Editor's note: Bruce has written a few great Rolex reviews for us – but this one is a bit special. It takes place not over a few days or weeks, but years. It's one of our favourite T+T stories, and definitely deserves a re-read. So, settle in for our long-term Rolex Datejust review … One fateful day after deciding it was finally time to get a Rolex Submariner, I walked into my local Rolex boutique and proceeded to try on the "wrong" watch. The only reason I even agreed to try on the Datejust was because I'd convinced myself it was the…

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05.06.2019

The Legend … the Longines Legend Diver, that is

Editor's note: To celebrate the fact that the first Australian allocation of the Longines Legend Diver black goes on sale at 8am tomorrow, we're looking back at OG Legend Diver. Black or steel, Milanese or sailcloth. No matter how you slice it, it's a winner of a watch. Longines was making stellar heritage reissues well before it was cool. Case in point is the stylish '60s-inspired Legend Diver, first released way back in 2007. And while it's become de rigueur for most major brands to release one or two retro pieces a year, the Longines Legend Diver (LLD) pioneered the reissue…

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05.06.2019

Mid-century modern – Tissot's excellent Heritage Petite Seconde

Editor's note: The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde isn't a new watch but, oh boy, it's still a good-looking piece of wristwear. The simple case, numerals, and dial texture all add up to an entirely pleasing watch … The story in a second: Tissot's latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That's not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that's reflected in…

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Cartier-Panther-Revelation-1

03.06.2019

Explaining just how Cartier's incredible Révélation d'une Panthère works

Editor's note: This year at SIHH we were treated to another look at the stunning Cartier Révélation d'une Panthère, and the 2019 version was helpfully explained to us thus: "Last year it had 900 gold beads forming the face. This year it is 650 diamonds. We had to redevelop and re-engineer everything. Diamonds and gold are not the same materials: one is heavier and the diamond is a bit thicker, which meant changing the size of the cavities in the panther head. It was a good challenge for us. The diamonds are brilliant shaped and they can move in three…

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Grand Seiko dial

03.06.2019

Dial for days – the Grand Seiko SBGH267

Editor's note: At this point, saying Grand Seiko do exceptional dials is a bit of a cliché, but c'mon – look at this thing. It's flat out incredible – delicate, detailed and still somehow fun. This is what Grand Seiko excel at, and this is why people love them … The foundation upon which modern Grand Seiko is built is the calibre 9S, first unveiled 20 years ago. Basel 2018 sees the Japanese brand pay tribute to this important movement with this new Grand Seiko model, the SBGH267 Vital statistics Grand Seiko's dial and case finishes are rightly lauded for…

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02.06.2019

A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd

Editor's note: Since we originally ran this story back in 2017, the star of @KingNerd has grown ever brighter – he's Revolution's in-house engraver, and works on all sorts of dopeness. Definitely worth a second look. Real nerd @KingNerd might not be a real monarch, but he is royalty in the world of fine engraving. Definitely worth a follow if you're into acanthus leaves and long guns. Oh, and watches. Tell me about yourself: My name is actually John, after my father and his father and so on, but friends started calling me Johnny and it's kind of stuck! I'm a…

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02.06.2019

Simply the best? The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel

Editor's note: no bells, no whistles. Everything you need and nothing you don't. It's the one and only Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel … Forget the fuss about the Sea-Dweller and the palaver over the Sky-Dweller, the real Rolex of 2017 is the Datejust 41 in steel. On the surface, the reasons might not be immediately obvious. After all, the Datejust 41 isn't new (it was released last year in yellow and Everose Rolesor versions), and its looks are almost the very definition of classic. But despite this — or because of it — we're confident in predicting that the…

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31.05.2019

The Tudor Pelagos LHD is excellent, but we want more

Editor's note: The last time the Tudor Pelagos received a significant line extension was the LHD (left hand drive), which debuted in 2016. It's a great watch — and arguably the 'hottest' of the Pelagos variants. But something we can all agree on is that it's a line that's well due for some more attention. Tudor, don't let us down at Baselworld 2020 … Once again, Tudor has surprised and tempted us with a brand new release just before Christmas – the Tudor Pelagos LHD. On the whole it's the same Pelagos we know and love, with just a few tweaks…

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Rado Captain Cook MKII

31.05.2019

Here's the proof you can easily wear a 37mm watch

Editor's note: Size is one of the prevailing issues in watchland. Too big? Too small? It's one of those ongoing debates that rages on (and on and on and on). A watch that clocks in at 37mm would typically be seen on the smaller size of this spectrum — so much so that many would discount it on dimensions alone. The Rado Heritage Captain Cook Tradition Mark II proves that you'd be a fool to judge a watch too small on specs alone … Last year, Rado had a breakthrough, heritage-inspired hit with their Captain Cook, a slightly quirky 37mm…

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30.05.2019

6 of the best vintage watch ads, according to @adpatina

Editor's note: One of the more interesting Instagram accounts I've followed in recent times is @adpatina, dedicated to sourcing (and selling) vintage watch ads. Clearly, I am not alone, as Ad Patina has graduated from Instagram and is now a fully fledged site and store. So, if you ever wanted to know what makes a good watch ad, or just want one to hang on the wall, read on … So, how did you get into vintage watch ads? Ah, it all started when I was a teenager in the mid '90s … I remember taping Rolex ads to my…

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Rolex-GMT-Master-II-Rolesor-Root-beer

30.05.2019

Two of the sweetest tones – the Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose

Editor's note: Root beer is a peculiarly American drink, sweet and vaguely medicinal – not at all unappealing but an acquired taste. Can the same be said for the Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose? Perhaps, but it's a particular flavour of Rolex that Andrew fell hard for at Basel 2018, and 12 months on, the love is still going strong … In the wee hours of this morning, as I was recording this voice-over, it occurred to me that the only watch from the new Rolex GMT-Master II collection currently not receiving a massive amount of coverage at Basel…

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30.05.2019

Rainbow bright! The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

Editor's note: Sapphire watches, while technically amazing, sometimes run the risk of being a little — um — dull. Mostly because there's nothing to really look at (what with the clear case and all). That's certainly not a problem with the (impressively named) Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow which delivers some double action thanks to the colourful bezel and complex movement. There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I've got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It's the Big Bang…

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29.05.2019

The incredible, complex symmetry of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche

Editor's note: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche manages to combine a complex, exceptionally slim movement, from one of the best movement makers in the business, with a complex dial design realised in a vivid, bright blue that's honestly one of the best in the business. This one is a real stunner. There's a running joke in the Time+Tide office about my proclivity for "beautiful blue" dials – I once managed to say it a few too many times in a short video review and, well, it sort of stuck. But in the case of this new version…

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29.05.2019

Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1

Editor's note: Cameron is a big fan of Casio, and is the proud owner of a beautiful golden boy. So it was no surprise that he raised his hand to review the quite heavy and very cool Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1. Read on … Anyone else ever play this game? Sitting at my desk during school, my friends and I would quickly double tap the start/stop button on our digi-stopwatches, trying our best to beat one another and see who could do it the fastest. I actually remember getting a digital watch just so I could play (and totally…

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28.05.2019

4 of the best everyday casual watches for under $10k

Editor's note: Fun fact — You don't need a whole watch roll full of watches. Sure, it's fun, but unless you're Papa Hayek, you only wear one at a time. So, in that spirit, here are some of the best everyday casual watch options, all for under $10K. Are you under sartorial pressure in your nine to five? Feel the need to up your office attire? Well, we can't help you with suits and shoes, but wrists? We've got you covered. We've found four perfect daily wearers that will dazzle your peers, no matter how dull your PowerPoint is. Rolex Oyster…

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28.05.2019

Another look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay?

Editor's note: Time to Move saw some new dial variants of the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, with a chic black dial. And while we only saw these watches in passing, it reminded us of what an interesting, underrated and divisive (yes, all at once) watch it is. So, this is our review of the original, from back in the day … Story in a second Omega adds an extra hand, two millimetres and a whole lot of text to their Constellation-inspired Globemaster. The Globemaster was one of the breakthrough watches of 2015, and it would have been naive to think that Omega…

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27.05.2019

5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs

Not everybody can afford the big guns: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Lange & Söhne, Breguet … These brands are, for many of us, a little out of reach (unfortunately). But that doesn't mean we can't appreciate them from afar. Nor does it mean that we can't find watches within our grasp that offer enough bang for their buck to earn the approval of even the snobbiest of watch snobs (well, okay, maybe not the snobbiest). Not all of the brands on this list of the best budget watch brands look a lot like any of the watches produced…

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26.05.2019

Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now?

Editor's note: Well, if it's not the coolest, it's certainly on the shortlist. And while this green and gold LE is a particular fave of ours, any of the 9F GMT movements work well. They're effortless, and so perfectly proportioned on the wrist. Plus, the work that goes into the quartz is so gosh-darned impressive … Quartz isn't something that comes across my desk too often, so you know when it does that it's something special — and this Grand Seiko is definitely something special. There's a handful of truly exceptional, iconic quartz movements out there, and the 9F is…

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26.05.2019

Practical perfection – the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date

Editor's note: Few brands can manage the delicate dance of design, beauty and function as deftly as A. Lange & Söhne, as their Saxonia Outsize Date, first released last year, demonstrates. Sandra tells us more … While the rules about how a man should dress for formal occasions are more relaxed than in the past, they are still governed by the principles of timelessness: elegance, discretion, refinement and restraint. Self-expression and individuality are all very well, but wearing a chunky, sporty watch with a dinner suit (or even a formal business suit) will forever remain a stylistic faux pas. And…

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26.05.2019

5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off

Editor's note: It's 2019, and along with the feeling that drone-delivered pizza is imminent, many people are also experiencing some form of existential apocalyptic angst. And rather than tell you that it's all going to be OK, we'd suggest you prepare by watching a few series of Doomsday Preppers and reading this list. We're sure you'll be fine. Every generation or so has its own particular flavour of apocalyptic angst. From mutually assured destruction to pandemic plagues or even rogue asteroids. Nowadays, we seem to be blessed with a profusion of options for end times, some of which are looking…

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25.05.2019

This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years

Editor's note: Dress watches are one of those timepiece genres with very specific 'rules', and can be hard to nail. One watch that always manages to look elegant and on point in a dressy situation is the Cartier Tank. Like this Tank Louis Cartier we looked at a while back … It's hard to overstate the importance of Cartier's Tank. Not just in the rarefied world of watch design, but in the much broader fields of fashion and design. In a crowded scene full of pretenders, it stands out — like an enduring style icon in a room full of so-called…

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24.05.2019

Spending a month with a beaten-up Omega Seamaster 300 – a watch that wears its scars proudly

Editor's note: I've got a thing for beaten-up watches. It shows they've lived a life, and that their owners aren't thinking primarily about resale value. They're watches being worn in the spirit in which they're made. And that's a good thing. A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a month or so. Now, unusually for me, this wasn't a PR sample or anything, but an actual real watch, that I borrowed off a mate who wanted to try one of my watches on for size. Now, I'm typically hesitant to do this, as I…

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24.05.2019

7 of the toughest watches ever made

Editor's note: There's something about possessing something whose capabilities far exceed anything you'll ever need them to do. I guess it's the thought that should Dave, mild-mannered accountant in a mid-level law firm, suddenly be called upon to disarm the bomb and save the world, we know that Dave can (at least) rely on his watch. As long as his watch is one of these … Back in days of yore (AKA 2015), we rounded up nine of the biggest, baddest, most unbreakable timepieces we could find, and created the most fierce gang of watches the world had ever seen. Much…

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23.05.2019

How to wear a watch like nobody is watching

Editor's note: There's a lot to love about Jeff Goldblum. Like pretty much everything really. And for us at least, one of his key character attributes is his ability to wear a dainty gold Cartier Tank like he doesn't give two whits for what the rest of the world thinks. Bravo. The same devil-may-care watch-wearing attitude also makes RDJ, Conor McGregor, Serena Williams and our very own Tim Cahill stand out in the watch department … There are watches we wear in our real lives and there are watches we imagine we would be brave enough to wear in our…

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23.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Omega are making us thirsty with this Casamigos Planet Ocean

Most of the time we're OK living in Australia. We've got great beaches, a laidback culture and some colloquial slang that's more colourful than a hatful of rainbow bezels. But sometimes we feel we're missing out. And today is one of those days. When we spotted this article on Uncrate about a US boutique-only Omega LE, we felt the thirst. And not just because it's a collab between Omega and their best pal Clooney's spirits company Casamigos. No, this watch, in matt black ceramic on sailcloth with teal text, has us feeling all sorts of things. You can feel them…

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22.05.2019

The problem with bezel screws …

Editor's note: Ahh, bezel screws. Along with date windows, nothing riles up the watch-loving populace quite as much as a misaligned, exposed bezel screw. So, in that spirit, here's an opinion piece we wrote on just that topic a little while ago … "Such a shame they don't take the time to align their screws. I wouldn't buy one purely because of this." Every time we post a picture of a watch with exposed bezel screws (mostly Hublot or Bell & Ross) we get a variation of this comment. And I'm well and truly over it. While many brands use…

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12.05.2019

His 'n Hers – two takes on the smaller Panerai Luminor Due

Editor's note: Panerai has been riding the winds of change recently, and one of the tell-tale signs is the advent of smaller sizes. Now, while it's easy to pigeonhole these offerings as women's watches, Felix and Sandra discuss the matter and decide these more petite Luminor Due models look the part on lads and lasses alike. Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it'd be a smart…

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12.05.2019

The world of watchmaking at Breguet

Editor's note: Next week, Breguet will unveil its 2019 releases to the world, and we can't wait. So, in preparation, we thought we'd have another look at Justin's piece on the fundamentals of Breguet's approach to watchmaking and watch design … With a brand so rich in history, the origins of what can only be called typical Breguet design cues date a fair ways back into the archives. Contrary to the case of countless other brands on the market, the components that make up Breguet's core design mantra could hardly be accused of being derivative, and each element has its…

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11.05.2019

How to impress a woman with your watch in 5 easy steps

Editor's note: This is one of the classic T+T articles that never really gets old, and with good reason. Ceri drops some truth bombs on how to impress with your wrist, should that sort of thing matter to you. Hint: it's likely not the $$$ value or the constant, not-so-subtle wrist flexes … Firstly, let's not delude ourselves: your timepiece is going to impress more men than women. That's a given. Unless, of course, it's awful. If that's the case, you'll be slaying precisely no one — and also, how did you find your way to Time+Tide? However, there are…

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11.05.2019

Two-tone done right – the Tudor Black Bay S&G

Editor's note: The last few years has seen an increasing number of two-tone releases — even several in yellow (!) gold. All of which only confirms that bi-metallic watches are back in a big way. One of the best is the Tudor Black Bay S&G. Here it is in all its steel and gold glory … Last year's release of the Black Bay S&G was something of a slow burn. In the heat of the initial announcements, all eyes were on the impressive Black Bay Chrono. As time passed, people seemed to realise what a looker the steel and gold…

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10.05.2019

When is it OK to wear a gold watch?

Editor's note: Steel is all the rage these days, with premiums for coveted models exceeding that of the comparable gold version. This fact alone is a compelling argument for gold. But it can be tricky to know when and how to wear it. After all, you may not want to rock into the office with a full gold watch, or look like your uncle. Andy breaks it down … You know who you are, and you know why you're here — and it's totally fine. You've found yourself at the inevitable crossroad that all collectors come to. You're finally in the…

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10.05.2019

One of the coolest dual times we've seen in ages – the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

Editor's note: There's no denying that dual time, or GMT watches are useful. They're also a bit of a pain if you want to change time zones on the fly. Well, the ingenious Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer takes that minor irritation out of the equation, and how! The story in a second It's all in the bezel. One of the more interesting watches to come across my desk in recent months is this Oris ProPilot Worldtimer. Now, at first glance, you might wonder why, as it looks every inch a regular ProPilot, albeit one with a second time zone…

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09.05.2019

The ever-refreshing Rolex Pepsi, AKA the GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO

Editor's note: A little more than a year has come and gone since the new Jubilee Rolex Pepsi entered the world (and it's since been joined by Batgirl), but the chances are good that you're still waiting for yours — so how about another look at what's still one of the most desired wrist accessories in the world right now. Take it away, Andy. You've either been sleeping or taking a break from social media to have missed the news on this one. As part of their new Baselworld 2018 releases, Rolex have released for the very first time a 'Pepsi'…

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09.05.2019

Have Montblanc Orbis Terrarum, will travel

Editor's note: Last Baselworld (2018, not 2019), I decided to mix things up a little and leave my normal bunch of plain and simple three-handers at home for something a little, um, busier. Well, a lot busier if we're honest. But trust me, all the colours and text on the dial of the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum didn't detract from its awesomeness … There's a lot of important planning that happens in the lead up to Baselworld. But perhaps the single most important question is — what watch do I wear? In previous years I've taken a handful of pieces, something I…

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08.05.2019

Cartier's Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019

Editor's note: The Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for modern times. Adaptable, versatile and restrained — but with a clear personality. It's also based on a watch that's more than 100 years old. Which really is a testament to good design. Long live the Santos! Few watches can rival Cartier's Santos in terms of on-the-wrist recognition and sheer weight of history. The design debuted in 1904 and has remained fundamentally unchanged in form since. But while the new Santos might look familiar, quite a lot has changed. Small changes have been made to the design and ergonomics of…

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Tudor Black Bay 41 Blue

08.05.2019

LIST: 6 classic men's watches for your budget

Pitching any 'best of' list is always more effective when you have very strict parameters and are forced to think sideways to come up with creative suggestions. Being asked to come up with a list of the best classic watches for different budgets is not easy. Less so, when one considers how open to interpretation the term 'classic' is. The TAG Heuer Monaco is a 'classic', but it is no dress watch, nor does it have 'classic' styling. For that reason I've chosen three price points, and decided to pick one sports and one dress watch that fits the bill…

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08.05.2019

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche – form and function perfectly balanced

Editor's note: Much of the 'what' of a watch can be summed up in the technical, the hard numbers and facts of the spec sheet. But there's an element — an X factor — that transcends this clinical description, and transforms a watch from an object into an artwork. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche is a watch that oozes with that X factor … There's a running joke in the Time+Tide office about my proclivity for "beautiful blue" dials –I once managed to say it a few too many times in a short video review and, well, it sort…

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07.05.2019

Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Editor's note: This year, Panerai made the Submersible a line in its own right, and honestly, we're wondering what took them so long. It's a design that — as demonstrated admirably by the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic (PAM 1389) here — possesses equal parts brawn, bravura and beauty … Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, a big, 47mm titanium beast with antimagnetic innards and an oh-so-sexy ceramic bezel. This powerful diver is a watch entirely in keeping with Panerai's core values. Fast forward to 2017 and we've got a new and improved version of this Luminor Submersible, with an updated…

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07.05.2019

Spending quality time with the Tudor Black Bay 36

Editor's note: In the intro to this wearer review of the Tudor Black Bay 36 we remark on just how busy Kristoffer Paulsen is. Well, this story is a few years old now and judging by KP's instagram and ever-more-mind-blowing folio of work, his life hasn't calmed down at all. Still, beautiful pictures of a lovely watch … Let us start off by saying that if we'd known just how busy Melbourne-based photographer Kristoffer Paulsen was when we arranged to lend him the Black Bay 36, we'd have said, "How about we raincheck this project?" Not only is Kris under…

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06.05.2019

Read the debut issue of NOW – The Watch Buying Guide online … well, now

Last year we made our foray into the inky world of print with NOW – The Watch Buying Guide. A weighty tome that, in addition to shining a light on some interesting horological tales and factoids, also lived up to its promise — putting more than 200 of the best recent watch releases into one handy, almost encyclopaedic place. It had quite the ring as a proposition: 200 watches from $200 to more than $200,000, though that part was quite accidental. Regardless, it was a happy accident for buyers frustrated by the obfuscation around pricing that we all endure from the…

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06.05.2019

Restrained elegance – the Rolex Cellini Time

Editor's note: Think Rolex, and the odds are high that you think sporty, if not straight-up steel. However, there's a lot more to the brand than Hulking, Pepsi-sipping superheroes. There's also the dressier, more delicate face of the brand. The side called Cellini, and here Andrew looks at the Rolex Cellini Time … When the Rolex Cellini range was relaunched by Rolex in 2014 – including the Cellini Time – the General Manager of Rolex Australia, Patrick Boutellier, chose a line of poetry to announce the news: "The sleeping Prince has been awoken," he said, or words to that effect,…

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05.05.2019

This Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph is not your average Speedy

Editor's note: It's no secret that there are heaps of Speedy variants to choose from, and typically we veer towards the more classical versions. Which is why we were so surprised by this Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph. It's two-tone, with a silver dial and a green bezel. Not what we'd normally pick. But also, absolutely awesome. If, at the start of 2016, you'd told me my favourite Omega of the year would be a two-tone Speedmaster (yellow gold, no less!) with a green bezel, I'd have enjoyed a good laugh at your expense. I like a Speedy as much as the…

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05.05.2019

In defence of the date window

Editor's note: Fancy a date? No, we're not talking Tinder or your other app of choice, we're delving into the world of the seemingly innocuous date window. Where some see a useful calendar tool, others see a symbol of all that is wrong with the world. So, on which side of the date line do you stand? We've got a surprisingly complex relationship with date windows in the Time+Tide office. And not just because we've been known to forget to set them on occasion. No, every time we review a vintage reissue, it can be assured that we'll have a host of…

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04.05.2019

10 of the best pilot's watches

Editor's note: Aviation-themed watches are one of the real fan-favourite genres, especially in Australia. And while there's a lot of big brands capitalising on their high-flying heritage, there's also some surprises in the mix. Here are our picks of 10 of the best pilot's watches. First things first, just what is a pilot's watch? While I think most of us could instantly recognise one, there isn't an exact formula like there is when it comes to dive watches — and there's a lot more to it than simply being a watch a pilot would wear. Ultimately (since you asked), a pilot's…

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03.05.2019

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000

Throughout our recent discussions on what it is that defines value, we've explored some different ways of approaching that question. Ultimately, it's down to the wearer to decide the return on their investment, but which watches do we think are pretty darn likely to get a thumbs up from our readers across the board? So here are five top buys, broken up into different price points, with a brief explanation of why these watches made it onto the list. Please feel free to tell us where we went wrong in the comments section, and let us know which watches you'd…

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5 most unattainable watches

03.05.2019

5 things you need to know before you buy Rolex for the first time 

Congratulations. You've decided to join one of the premier families in the watchmaking universe. That first decision to buy Rolex is seen by many as a rite of passage all watch lovers should experience at some point during their collecting career, and it's one we support wholeheartedly. Since the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking began in the mid 1980s, Rolex has been ever-present, but it was not until the last decade of uncertainty reared its ugly head did Rolex really separate itself from the pack. I have said many times, and will continue to say, that Rolex is no longer a watch…

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03.05.2019

9 reasons why '90s watchmaking matters today

Editor's note: Aaaah, the '90s. That era of Hypercolour and fleece that seems, somehow, to be en vogue once more. It's also an era that embodies a strange juxtaposition in watchmaking. On the one hand, it's seen as a time that style forgot, while simultaneously playing host to some very significant horological innovations … Sitting between the now nostalgia-laden '80s and the innovation explosion of the 2000s, the 1990s is seen as something of a watchmaking wasteland; a bold (and brash) period that's currently out of fashion, but not far enough away to be viewed through the rose-tinted glasses of…

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02.05.2019

LIST: 6 milestone watches for milestone birthdays

Watches are fantastic birthday presents. They couldn't really be any more fitting: A gift that tracks the passing of time to commemorate the time past. There is a poetic symmetry to it, and it's no surprise that a huge amount of watches – especially those deemed 'fashion' watches – are purchased as gifts year on year. With that in mind, we've decided to put together a list of great milestone watches to buy someone as they reach special milestones in their life. Milestone 1 – the 21st Birthday watch You're just starting out. Maybe your parents want to get you something…

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02.05.2019

HOW TO: Buy your first good watch

Stepping into a luxury jewellers, pockets full of the hard-earned cash you're planning to drop on your first proper timepiece, can be a daunting prospect. In fact, assuming you haven't just stumbled into a vast fortune and you're buying a luxury watch simply because you assume it's the done thing, there is no doubt your first foray into watch appreciation will be something of an emotional rollercoaster. Aside from the pretty much blanket discomfort most people feel when spending large amounts of money on anything, feelings such as doubt, fear, and (truthfully) guilt at making what seems like such an…

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02.05.2019

Why are Swiss watches considered the best?

This is something we get asked a lot. And not just by newcomers to the industry. To some minds, it instantly sticks out like a sore thumb that the Swiss products are regarded as sacrosanct and that the wares of all other nations should fall in line behind the masters. But to others, it just seems like the natural order of things. So engrained it is in their minds that they never feel the need to question it. Swiss means quality. Simple. How could the truth possibly be any more complicated than that? Well, surprise, surprise, it is. The short…

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02.05.2019

Is the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT "Flash Setting" the perfect travel watch?

Editor's note: Typically watch snobs (us included) love to shun quartz-powered watches, but when it's as clever (but not smart in the smartwatch sense) as this Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT review shows, it's hard not to love. The story in a second: A rare case of quartz having legit enthusiast appeal, albeit in a clever, and very novel, fashion. Say "it's quartz" and countless watch nerds cringe; however, there have been some exceptions to the rule over the years. Of course, Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibres get a pass on account of the brand's epic design and finishing, as well…

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01.05.2019

So hot it hurts, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST

Editor's note: It's not new, but it's oh-so-hot and nigh on impossible to get. Read on for our review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST — and weep … When the watchfam get together, it's only a matter of time before the hot topic of grail watches rears its curious head. It's no surprise, either, that for many collectors, their ultimate goal is usually found at the higher end of the watchmaking spectrum. Perhaps a Patek Philippe or something of the Vacheron variety? Or maybe the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Brought to life by Gérald Genta, when…

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01.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Have you ever seen a digital Monaco before? Meet the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine

One of the things I really like about this whole watch thing is that I can still be surprised. And when I spotted this post from the truly excellent Calibre 11, one of the leading resources for all things TAG Heuer and Heuer. Now, I'm not claiming that I'm all over the Monaco — after all, the model turns 50 this year, and there's been quite a bit of variation. But I did not expect to see a digital Monaco. Except then I did. This watch, with the very Swiss name of the Monaco Sixty Nine (in reference to the 1969…

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01.05.2019

They don't come much brighter than the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic

Editor's note: In the watch world we like to talk about trends. But the trends we're talking about are pretty macro — after all, we're talking a five-year production cycle, not five weeks. Fast fashion, watches are not. Having said that, one of the more prevalent trends is colour. Big, bold watches that stand out on the wrist. Hublot's Big Bang Red Magic is one of the brightest stars (literally and figuratively) of recent times … "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." I'm fairly sure Arthur C. Clarke didn't have Hublot — or even watches — in mind…

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30.04.2019

We answer the dreaded "if you could only have one watch" question …

Editor's note: Full disclosure, this is 100 per cent hypothetical — no watch collections were harmed in the making of this list. Having said that, it's a very fun hypothetical. Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It's clearly hypothetical and I'm pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it's a perennial watch party favourite, and can be pretty fun. It's also a useful challenge for distilling just what it is you like about watches – it's like mindfulness for watch…

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Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Swiss Watch Luxury

30.04.2019

Is it the GOAT steel sports model? Another look at the Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN

Editor's note: Steel Daytonas have always been hard watches to get your hands on, and the latest Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN is no exception. And aside from the whole hype/status thing, it's easy to see why. First released in 2016, it just looks the business. In case you've been living under a Rolex-shaped rock for the last few years, here's our review of what might still be the hottest sports Rolex around … The story in a second The latest and greatest steel Daytona is here, and everyone loves it. The only problem? Getting your hands on it. It's hard to…

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29.04.2019

Longines knock it out of the park with the Heritage Military

Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that's down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that's not to say that…

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29.04.2019

Bright plus bold makes the TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition a very fun option

Editor's note: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition could very easily have been an over-the-top affair, but somehow, this big squarer watch with go-faster stripes manages to be much like its most famous wearer: cool. The story in a second: Two stripes are all it takes to amp up the legacy and motorsports heritage of the Monaco. I'm willing to put the success of the Monaco down to two things: the Steve McQueen link, and the square shape. I'm sure there are numerous other factors, like the Calibre 11, at play. But really, it's the fact that this watch…

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29.04.2019

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)

Editor's note: We originally ran Andy's interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look. John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and a certifiable watchaholic. In his spare time, he runs the sales organisation for a small software company in Los Angeles, meaning he travels all around the US, meeting with customers and seeing places in the country that few would ever (voluntarily) go. How do you…

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29.04.2019

9 things you need to know before buying an Omega Constellation

Editor's note: This guest post, from noted vintage watch dealer Derek Dier of WatchesToBuy, was written a few years ago now, but the advice is timeless, even if the prices for Omega Constellations are only going up. So, if you're in the market for one of these old school beauties, make sure you read this first … The Omega Constellation is so easily wearable. It's one of those vintage watches almost every collector seeks at some point in their perpetual search for another piece to add to their collection. First appearing in 1952, the Constellation was designed to be Omega's…

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28.04.2019

5 of the best American watches

Editor's note: The other week news dropped about Timex's lastest line, which is significantly made in America. Which got us to thinking about some other watches born in the USA. So we thought it was high time to have another look at this list … It might surprise you to know that in the first half of the last century, America was regarded as the force to be reckoned with when it came to watches — especially modern, efficient and mass-produced watches. But now, with great legacy brands like Waltham and Illinois consigned to the scrapheap of history, while others,…

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28.04.2019

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 in blue, grey and grape

Editor's note: You don't always need bells and whistles to make something truly exceptional. Sometimes less is more. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is a case in point. Here we look at the colourful series that was released a few years ago. And even though they're not the latest, they're still among the greatest. The story in a second: This could well be the only watch you'll ever need. There's a concept in the world of watch enthusiasts that's referred to as 'only one watch'. For the majority of the population, this concept is better known as 'normality'. But if…

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27.04.2019

This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch

Editor's note: It's slender, but it weighs a lot. It's gold, but it doesn't look like it. I just can't get the Bulgari Octo Finissimo in rose gold out of my head. And that's even factoring in the epic new black ceramic version we saw at Basel. Seriously, will someone spot me $60K? The story in a second: Bulgari's latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your day off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it's Bulgari's darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now,…

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27.04.2019

Heritage case, awesome dials and unique movement – Grand Seiko SBGA373 and SBGA375

Editor's note: It's easy to get caught up in the hype around Grand Seiko dials (and these two beauties still pack a punch in that category), but the unique Spring Drive movement and 44GS-style case are just as noteworthy – as is the wearable size … In addition to the scene-stealing 9S 20th anniversary pieces, Grand Seiko have announced two new Spring Drive models at Baselworld 2018. Reference SBGA373 with a champagne dial, and SBGA375 in rich blue. Vital statistics With its inexorably smooth sweeping seconds hand, there's something hypnotic about Grand Seiko's Spring Drive technology, powered and regulated by…

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26.04.2019

Looking for a great all-rounder that won't break the bank? How about the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar?

Editor's note: For whatever reason, I'm on a bit of a back-to-basics kick at the moment. I mean, high complications and high price tags are all well and good, but sometimes you crave the simpler things in life. And I guess for me, right now, the simpler things are watches. Only hang on — plot twist — turns out this watch here isn't quite so simple: there's an annual calendar in the mix, which has been realised in a refreshingly unfussy way. Read on for our review of the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar. There are few things I love…

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26.04.2019

5 of the greatest watch moments on Antiques Roadshow (and if you don't tear up on the last one, there's something wrong with you)

Editor's note: If we're being completely honest, there's one clear hero on this list. And it's the old guy and his Rolex at the end. So if you're time-poor, scroll on down to the bottom and have a look. Yes, even if you've seen it before. It gets better every time. Bless you, Antiques Roadshow. I have a not-so-secret love in my heart for Antiques Roadshow — specifically the UK version, but the US version is pretty good, too. If you're not familiar with the concept, it's a show where random members of the public show up and have their junk/priceless…

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26.04.2019

5 solid microbrand watches for less than $500

Editor's note: A good, interesting watch isn't determined by the name on the dial or the number on the price tag. This piece from Cameron Wong (originally posted last year) proves the point. Five solid, wallet-friendly choices with personality — and usually — a real person behind them. What's not to love about microbrand watches? What I love about the microbrand watch companies is that they're run by guys and gals like you and me. The kind of people that appreciate watches, and find excitement in a unique dial or case design while getting a buzz out of a new…

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Sinn 104 St Sa I W

25.04.2019

The Sinn 104 St Sa I W – a super-tough daily wearer

Editor's note: Sinn is well known for their bomb-proof tool watches, but can they do something a little more light and airy? In his review from a while back, Cam argues that yes, yes they can. And that watch is called the Sinn 104 St Sa I W. Famous for their formidable and over-engineered designs — which range from technically advanced mission timers to hardcore divers made of submarine steel — Sinn are arguably the most renowned tool watch manufacturer in the industry. However, the German company also hosts a suite of dressier pieces that are better suited to a boardroom than…

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25.04.2019

5 of the best GMTs for under $5000

Editor's note: Travel is the unofficial national sport of Australians, which makes sense given our geographic remoteness. So we thought we'd do our bit by having another look at this list of best in budget GMTs, all in the very achievable $5000 or less price point. One of the most useful everyday complications is the GMT or dual time zone. If you travel a lot or do business internationally it's certainly a lot easier to check your GMT than to fiddle with your phone, trying to find the world clock app. Given the usefulness of this complication to the jet…

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Tudor Black Bay GMT

24.04.2019

Is the Tudor Black Bay GMT the perfect travel watch?

Editor's note: The other week I met up with a globetrotting friend from the internet (it happens more often than you might suspect), and on his wrist was the Tudor Black Bay GMT. It looked great, and more than that, old mate actually wore it travelling (as opposed to his vintage Rolex GMT), because it could: (a) handle the rigours of the road, and (b) he wasn't constantly paranoid about scratching it. And really, isn't the best travel watch the one you actually travel with? Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original…

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24.04.2019

What separates fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tag)?

Editor's note: One of the hoary old sayings of watch collecting is, "Buy the best example you can afford." And, for all its worn, chestnut-y appeal, the statement still rings true. Sure, saving a bit of cash for what is essentially the same thing might seem tempting, but in the long run, quality wins out. Here's Justin's excellent piece from last year on what you get for your money at various price points … It's a question many of us in the industry get on a regular basis: 'What makes one watch worth $1000 and another worth more than $100,000?'…

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24.04.2019

Pure as the driven snow, the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake

Editor's note: It's one of the most well-loved Japanese watches out there, and a legend in its own right. Only question — what's cooler, the movement or the dial? You decide. Read on for our review of the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake. Grand Seiko's famous 'Snowflake' has been with us for quite some time now (it was first released, as the SBGA011, in 2010), and it's quickly earned a reputation as an exemplary everyday watch that manages to combine functionality and beauty in equal measure. Smartly, Seiko knew enough to leave one of the cores of the Grand Seiko collection…

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Clairvoyant Watch Collector

23.04.2019

Smart money – 6 expert takes on the best value watches to buy

Editor's note: Midway through last year, Justin did an excellent wrap of 'value' pieces, asking a range of industry leaders for their (very subjective) takes on the best value pieces RN. Nearly 12 months on, do you think these picks still hold up? And I wonder what the 2019 version would include … Anyone with an eye on horological news has seen their fair share of "Value Propositions" and other notes and recommendations about watches delivering varying shades of bang for your buck. Hell, we know we've made our own recommendations as we've seen fit over the years. That said,…

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23.04.2019

See the rainbow, taste the rainbow – Hublot style

Editor's note: Rainbow bezelled watches are certainly enjoying their time in the sun at the moment – for years they've been seen as a women's watch, or a left-field, quirky guys choice. But these days they're increasingly accepted as a "serious" (in 10-foot tall air quotes) choice. Certainly, this Hublot from a few years back manages to blend serious wth playful very well indeed … The Hublot booth at Baselworld is a busy place, a multi-level monolith that's more akin to a mini city than a trade show stand. We spent a few hours there, taking photos, shooting video and generally…

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23.04.2019

4 space watches that aren't the classic Speedmaster

Editor's note: It's a big year for space-themed watches, what with the 50th anniversary of the Moon landing. And of course that means it's a big year for Omega (who have already announced this solid gold stunner). But it's worth noting that Omega don't have a monopoly on that whole space thing. Here are some other out-of-this-world options … I've been a little spacey recently — and not just because Andrew has been reliving the glory of holding Gene Cernan's Speedmaster, and First Man is on our must-watch list. On top of that, I've recently re-watched the excellent Hidden Figures…

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22.04.2019

This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor's note: There's a risk with dress watches that they become overly simple. Boring even. That's not what's going on with the Breguet Classique 7147, which manages to balance clean design, fine detail and Breguet's storied design codes in one neat golden package … The story in a second: Breguet's updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, modern convenience and just the right amount of playfulness. The Classique 7147 is the definition of a quiet achiever. It's a simple, sturdy watch that does everything asked of it with style, and it does so with a sense of reserved assurance that only a…

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22.04.2019

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter?

Editor's note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly every watch leaving Rolex's Geneva facility has been a certified Chronometer, and from 1957 onwards, Rolex has been using the term 'Superlative' on their dials to describe that their watches don't just meet Chronometer standards, but exceed them. Design purists might bemoan the resulting text-heavy dials…

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Mido Commander Shade

22.04.2019

6 great Swiss mechanical watches under $1500 (from brands you've heard of)

Editor's note: There's real weight behind the phrase "Swiss Made", which is, in many ways, synonymous with quality. Oftentimes it's also synonymous with expensive. But that doesn't need to be the case, as these six watches, all of which were released in 2018, come in under $1500. Bonus, they all come from well-known, respected brands. A Swiss watch is a near-universally recognised symbol for quality, precision and tradition. And while that's all well and good, there's another thing that fine Swiss watches tend to be synonymous with — and that's high sticker prices. And broadly speaking, that perception is true…

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21.04.2019

Big blue, the IWC Big Pilot Edition "Le Petit Prince"

Editor's note: IWC's Big Pilot is one of the most significant watches of the last 20 years. Its deceptively simple design belied the huge impact this 46mm monster had on the watch scene. But can it go dressy? Well, the IWC Big Pilot Edition "Le Petit Prince" makes a solid argument for the yay camp. When IWC released the original Big Pilot in 2002 it captured imaginations, marking a defining moment in the early noughties trend for 'big' watches. It was a brute, with its hulking 46mm case and utilitarian aesthetics. And if the original ref. 5002 Big Pilot had been…

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21.04.2019

8 ways to let your significant other know you're about to buy a new watch …

Editor's note: This piece, originally written by Andy Green waaaaaay back in 2017, is one of our most enduring and popular stories. It's easy to see why. My favourite method is one in, one out. But it's all solid advice … The reality is that watches are luxury goods, so the 'need' to buy them rarely occurs. That means for most, they naturally fall very low (some say too low) on life's list of priorities, and most definitely do not outrank things like kids, mortgages and school fees. And unless your partner shares your passion, I'd gamble and say they…

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20.04.2019

Montblanc have their sights set on adventure with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere

Editor's note: I'm on a bit of a travel watch trip at the moment. And, to my mind, they fall into two distinct camps: high-flyers and adventurers. Montblanc's 1858 Geosphere, which is a few years old now, definitely falls into the latter category. Now, it's up to you where on the roughing-it-to-luxury spectrum that adventure falls. But you know what, this watch works in both contexts … While the automatic, chronograph and Minerva versions of the 1858 collection bear a strong resemblance to the existing 1858 watches, the Geosphere is something else entirely. It's also a watch that speaks most…

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20.04.2019

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 – black, white and utterly classic

Editor's note: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is an exceptional, nigh perfect, execution of a watch. And last year it was given two new dials, in crisp white and inky black. This is our review … One of the real hits from Rolex's 2015 collection was the Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300), a bare bones, simple steel timepiece that was still pure Rolex. Initially offered in a range of youthful, colourful dials, this year the Oyster Perpetual family expanded to include white and black dial variants, and they are, just quietly, awesome. While the case and bracelet are unchanged, it's…

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Glashütte-Original-Vintage-Sixties-7

20.04.2019

Going green never looked so good – 7 of the best green watches that prove it

Editor's note: One of the easiest ways to freshen up a watch is to change the dial colour. Few colours are fresher than green, and in 2019 that trend doesn't look like going away. Here's a list we put together last year, of seven of the most envy-instilling green dials. Today we're following up on last week's batch of blue-dialled watches with seven of the freshest green dials on the block. Green is shaping up to be the new en vogue colour, and I suspect that if we ran this list next year, we'd easily be able to double the number…

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19.04.2019

Turns out hand-painting watch dials is hard. Here's the proof

Editor's note: Look, we never thought it was easy. This is, after all, skilled manual labour. But Andrew discovered just how difficult hand-painting a watch dial is when he visited Franck Muller in Geneva … I'm not above admitting it. I'm more than just a bit painful when it comes to painted versus printed dials. "Is this painted or printed?" is a question I've asked countless times. Receiving countless eye-rolls, I might add. And, full disclosure, I've always assumed that the colour, paint volume and line-perfect proportions of Franck Muller dials are the latter. Printed. But when I attended the Franck…

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19.04.2019

Erika's Originals straps – hands down, some of the best on the market right now

Editor's note: I ran into the lovely Erika a few times back at Baselworld, and it was clear she was having a good time. Her watches were flying off the shelves, and she had a collab with Bell & Ross that looked great. Her elastic parachute material straps offer a superb mix of comfort, style and story. Personalities like Erika are what make the watch industry great. If you need a primer on what Erika's Originals straps are all about, here's our interview from last year … Hi Erika, how did you find yourself making watch straps? It is pure…

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18.04.2019

4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch

Editor's note: I don't know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos — recently given an all new and improved makeover — is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. Even in its more precious varieties. Don't believe me? Read on … While you can make an argument for one-watch-per-purpose (a watch for work, weekend, formal occasions, etc), I personally think that versatility is the key to a good watch. Luckily, versatility is something the…

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18.04.2019

"They're impossible to get, and guys like me ruin them." Greg Yuna on custom watches

Editor's note: It takes a special kind of swag to not only get your hands on the hottest watches on the market, but to then decide to do some aftermarket mods on them. If you've got that level of swag and lean towards diamonds, you should probably meet Greg Yuna. We chatted to him last year … Once known as 'Mr Flawless', Greg Yuna is an entrepreneur and custom jeweller to celebrities like Drake, Floyd Mayweather Jr and Meek Mill. We talk custom watches with Greg, to gain some insight into one of the more controversial parts of the watch…

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17.04.2019