EDITOR’S PICK: The evolution of Chanel’s in-house watchmaking

Editor’s note: I’ve been saying for a few years now that Chanel is one to watch on the watchmaking front. They’ve been making watches for years of course, but in more recent times they’ve stepped up the intensity, offering beautiful (and beautifully executed) in-house movements. Sandra has the story … It’s seven years since Chanel Horlogerie decided to start developing its own movements in-house and in the last three of those years it has launched three new calibres – or four, when counting Calibre 2.1 separately. Each is strikingly different from anything offered by other haute horlogerie brands – and…

EDITOR’S PICK: Why you shouldn’t think about investment value when buying a new watch

Editor’s note: One of the questions we constantly get asked is about watches as investments. And while there’s no doubt that watches are being increasingly seen as a viable category for investment, In this piece originally written last year Sandra argues that it’s not a path you should go down — especially with new watches. Read on.  Being in the watch writing line of work, it’s no great surprise that friends and acquaintances often ask me for watch-buying advice. Call it an occupational hazard, call it a compliment that they should consider my advice worth seeking, but (unlike a doctor…

LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions

Last year, Andy and I put together a fun little speculative list on heritage reissues we’d like to see in 2018. It was a fun story, so we thought we’d revisit it — with a Basel twist. We sat down over some cold brew (coffee, not beer) and hashed out our wish list of Basel releases, and then brutally critiqued the plausibility and flaw in each other’s ideas. Like I said, fun.   Tudor Green Pelagos Andy: Somewhere, someone on the interwebs had the idea (and photoshop skills) to turn the Tudor Pelagos green (one of our photos no less!). Now,…

INSIGHT: A Due double take – two perspectives on the smaller Panerai Luminor Due models

Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it’d be a smart idea to get two takes on these models, courtesy of slender-wristed Sandra and Felix (and his mighty wrists). First thoughts Sandra Lane: Shock, horror! Panerai have made a “small” watch. Some are calling it a watch for women (or – God forbid – even a ‘girly’ watch) but really it’s not. It is simply a watch…

INSIGHT: Sylvester Stallone and his Tiffany & Co Rolex Submariner

Editor’s note: Matt Hranek’s now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  SYLVESTER STALLONE actor, director & screenwriter Tiffany & Co. gold Rolex Submariner reference 1680/8 This, by far, is the watch I’m most emotionally connected to. The first time I saw it, it was on the…

INSIGHT: Frank Castronovo and his IWC Mark XV

Editor’s note: Matt Hranek’s now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  FRANK CASTRONOVO Chef & co-owner, Frankies Spuntino Group IWC Mark XV My grandfather was an amazing guy, a working-class kid made good. He grew up in Brooklyn during the Depression. It was a tough life.…

INSIGHT: James H. Ragan and his Omega Speedmasters

Editor’s note: Matt Hranek’s now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  JAMES H. RAGAN former aerospace engineer, NASA Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches I didn’t get to NASA until the start of the Gemini days, and watches were just one of many, many pieces I tested and procured…

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I’ll always be a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s Note: Last week I shared an opinion piece on why I’m not so into vintage watches these days, so today we’re seeing what the other side of the coin looks like, courtesy of avowed vintage lover, Julian Sack, who has very few ‘new’ watches in his roll. Take it away, Julian! I’m a watch collector. I didn’t know it when my father gave me an IWC after my graduation, but in the years and decades since, I’ve realised that collecting vintage watches is a part of who I am. I’ve come to love the stories and history that live in old…

WATCHSPOTTING: Which tennis player wears what in 2017?

Editor’s note: Whether they know it or not, anyone in a highly visible profession is likely to have their wristwear critiqued by a cadre of hardcore watch geeks. Politicans, actors and athletes are all fair game. Today in a special guest post, Paxton Wong casts his ever-watchful eye over the watch choices of some of the world’s best tennis players, just as the Australian Open heats up in week two. They say tennis is all in the wrist. Perhaps here is where the secret lies? Looking a little closer, players appear to be balancing the weight of the racquet in…

MY WEEKEND WITH: The Cartier Hypnose – by The Tia Fox

All this week, we’ve been sharing our collaboration with style influencer Melanie Liu, aka The Tia Fox, to showcase Cartier’s Hypnose collection. Today, she puts on her reviewer hat (which would be painfully chic and limited edition, were it not metaphorical), to let us know exactly what she thought of the three models she tested out. Early this week she told us about the story behind the photoshoot, so make sure to watch it unfold in the full gallery below. My first impression of the three watches was… that they were stunning at first sight, which was a lovely surprise. The whole line is very beautiful and feminine. What…

EDITOR’S PICK: Dark visions – the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Black Ceramic

Editor’s Note: Last time we looked at the midnight visage of the all-black Heuer-01 it was in the bustle and busyness of Baselworld. Eight months later and the watch is now starting to be seen on Australian wrists. Building off the modular platform of 2015’s bold new Carrera, this model is far more sexy than stealthy. But as David Chalmers explains, the black ceramic case makes the watch even tougher. The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Black Ceramic is the first time ever that TAG Heuer has released a fully ceramic case for a watch in their men’s range (they’ve offered a women’s Formula 1 model…

IN-DEPTH: We fight over the new grey-dialled Slim d’Hermès

The story in a second With a slender profile, top-notch movement and a dial to die for, the Slim d’Hermès has a lot more going for it than just the name. Hermès might be better known for its much-coveted Birkin bags than high-end horology, but the Slim d’Hermès looks set to change all that. First unveiled in 2015, the watch has evolved this year with two new dial variants in slate grey and blue – and when we tried to assign this piece, both Ceri and Felix wanted it, and wouldn’t let it go. Our first solution was to let them wrestle it out on the office floor, which would…

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Into the blue with the Montblanc 1858 Manual Small Second video review

It started with the 1858, which – in an insanely busy year for Montblanc – dropped out of the big blue sky. We were excited. We were titillated. We were a little flummoxed to be honest. Thoroughly embracing the spirit of the Manufacture Minerva that Montblanc acquired, it was almost a case of innovation overload. Almost. Because when we saw it in the metal, we better understood the play, which seemed to be: 1.Wrap Minerva into the brand story at an entry as well as elite price point. 2. Give the elegant Heritage Chronométrie range a more rugged brother to cover all…

HOW TO: Survive the 8 stages of the Sydney City2Surf

In the 46 years it’s been going, the City2Surf has grown to become the world’s largest fun run, taking place each August in Sydney, bang in the middle of the southern hemisphere’s glorious winter. This year, around 80,000 people have entered the race, which kicks off tomorrow morning at 7:50am in the city centre before meandering 14km through the Eastern Suburbs to its final destination at Bondi Beach. All of these facts compelled you to sign up and now, with less than 24 hours to go, it’s time to get in the zone. Well, we’re here for you. The best…

MY WEEK WITH: The Drive de Cartier – by Chris Edwards

Warning: This watch review with a difference may contain traces of mancrush. So let’s address the chiselled jaw on the elephant in the room. We envy the hero of this shoot, Mr Chris Edwards, more than just a little bit. Let us count the ways. He surfs and still dresses as sharply as anyone in the country (see these stunning photographs for perfectly fitted proof). On the business front, he co-founded a high-end tailoring business – Oscar Hunt. To make matters even more unreasonable, he was recently crowned the Australian ‘Drive Man’ by Cartier. But perhaps the hardest thing to stomach…

OPINION: Why I’ll always be a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s Note: The other week I wrote an opinion piece on why I’m not so into vintage watches these days. We received a tonne of feedback on it, some of you thought I’d hit the nail on the head, others thought I was off my rocker. In short, it did what a good piece of opinionated writing should do – divided our audience and started some conversations. In which case, it’s only right that we present the other side of the picture. Stepping up to the plate is avowed vintage lover Julian Sack, who recently reported for us from the…

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 3rd June, 2016, winter is here

Your boy Jon Snow may have been banging on about it for some time, but winter’s finally arrived here in the southern hemisphere. By mid-afternoon on Saturday, Harvey Norman’s electric blanket aisle will have been decimated, so don’t leave your run too late. That’s the weekend taken care of, but what of the week that was? Well, this: What happened After an unveiling in January, A. Lange & Söhne has released the Saxonia Thin in two sizes: 37mm and 40mm. At just 5.9mm high, it’s the slimmest piece they offer, but the big news is the RRP. At $22,000, the…

OPINION: How to buy your first baller watch – by @fakewatchbusta

Editor’s Note: Any Instagram-savvy watch fan who doesn’t follow @fakewatchbusta and @rolex_enforcer is either lying, in need of a tip, or perhaps they just have enough entertainment in their lives already. We fall into the camp of those that enjoy the odd bust, with a preference for the posts that can help educate (as well as eviscerate) on the telltale signs of fakery and forgery. Too-slim batons? Poorly cut out numerals? Skate ramp rehaut? Shivers of pure delight for watch geeks.  Occasionally, in amongst the (unhelpful) troll army takedowns, you get a glimpse of the impressive, detailed knowledge these guys are able…

INSIGHT: How to lose at Geneva watch auctions – a handy guide

Editor’s Note: In this special guest post, Time+Tide reader Julian Sack recounts his experiences of trying to buy a watch at the recent Christie’s and Phillips auctions in Geneva – and the lessons he learned along the way. Julian is a collector with many years’ experience, with a penchant for the Rolex Prince and Patek Philippe. If you ever plan on buying at a big-budget auction, this is a must-read. I’d never before attended any of the big Geneva watch auctions, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. My first stop after clearing customs was Christie’s, to get a closer look…

EXCLUSIVE OPEN LETTER: FakeWatchBusta answers the question, is it ever OK to wear a fake watch?

I am the person behind the @fakewatchbusta account on Instagram and I was kind of shocked when I got the assignment of writing on this topic. It’s like asking Superman if it’s OK to bring kryptonite to the party. Anyways, I’ll approach this as seriously as I can…. ARGUMENT #1 – “I wear fake watches when I travel in case I get robbed” In the words of penny stockbroker Timothy Sykes: “Rich people wear fakes as backups, especially in third world countries… but poor people don’t get that.” The argument here is that he might get robbed? Do you think…

OPEN LETTER: How I came to love watches, by Kris Smith

Editor’s Note:  Attend enough watch brand events and you’ll notice the same faces in the crowd – well-dressed people you know well enough to exchange small talk with, and share a drink, until you see each other again at the next boutique opening. This is how we met Mr Smith, Mr Kris Smith – model, Myer ambassador and watch lover. It’s this last point that really matters. Because Kris isn’t just there, where we so often meet, for the champagne and photo-op, he’s often there for the watches. We bonded. Things escalated quickly when we noticed Kris commenting on Instagram, and tagging us…

ANNOUNCING: The Holiday Buying Guide

In December, the questions get out of control. From friends, family, Instagram followers, cab drivers, you name it. As soon as people establish that you’re in watches, there are the questions; “Hey, I was thinking of getting <XXXXX> a <XXXXX> for Christmas / Hannukah / their work bonus, what else would you recommend?” We like talking about watches. In fact, it’s the one thing we never tire of, which is lucky. But for expedience this year, we’ve packaged 12 of the very best possibilities in one place – the Holiday Buying Guide. The watches suggested vary in price point, but…

EVENT: Discover the Longines Watercolour Watch Project, live from Baselworld

Hello. My name is Sunflowerman and I was raised in Grand Rapids, Michigan. This week I am stationed in Basel, Switzerland. My work at the Baselworld fair also happens to be my passion in life; painting people, painting places and for the first time, painting watches for Longines, a watchmaker I was introduced to by my friends at Time+Tide. They will write the reviews, as normal, but rather than photographs of the watches, I am going to paint them. I’m not a complete novice when it comes to timepieces – but I have to admit, when I set foot inside the halls of…

THE XMAS LIST: Time+Tide’s Naughty and Nice Watch List for 2014, starring…. YOU

‘Twas the week before Christmas…. And we all know what that means for watch magazines and websites: watch buying guides, last-minute gift ideas, lists of accessories for the hard-to-buy-for watch lover and lots of scouring of shipping small print to make sure it will arrive before the big day. We’ve ummed and aaahed about how to commemorate our first ever Christmas and we thought we’d go to the only list that matters at this time of year, the list kept by the bearded fat man in red. Instead of give you our picks for the year, in a handy  list, we’ve…

Quite possibly the best prize ever – Win a Baume & Mercier Clifton and celebrate on a tropical island (COMPETITION CLOSED – WINNER ANNOUNCED SOON!)

The thing about a GMT watch, which allows you to take in multiple time zones at a glance, is that it immediately makes the mind wander to travel. And usually to places you’d rather be. For example: beaches, tropical breezes, and ultra luxury accommodation, all far away from the madding crowds… It is our absolute pleasure to announce that Time+Tide, in partnership with Baume & Mercier and boutique hotel specialists Mr & Mrs Smith is giving you the chance to win all of the above – on an island. The prize includes our favourite Baume & Mercier Clifton, the GMT, and…

BREAKING NEWS: Time+Tide Reboots the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH80

While TAG Heuer’s Carrera CH80 was one of the hits of Baselworld 2014, our man David Chalmers from Calibre 11, (the world’s leading source of news for TAG Heuer collectors) tells us that the model shown last week will likely change between now and when it hits the stores. This might sound unusual, but its actually par for the course. Many people forget that Baselworld is actually a trade show, where dealers come to place their orders for the year. That gives the brands the chance to make subtle changes to the designs of the watches that they show before…

WHO ARE WE?

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE WATCH INDUSTRY

We have some potentially alarming news… Despite scientific evidence to the contrary, what attaches a wearer to their watch is not, in fact, its strap or its bracelet.

It is its story.

Time+Tide is a media group of world-leading watch writers who have bonded over this shared belief. We are not reading enough old-fashioned, beautifully crafted story in the current watch media landscape, so, together, we are going to write it.
We are dedicated to unearthing the untold stories of both the well-known and yet-to-be-known brands and watches. We then share this information online, in print (glorious print) and in other surprising places, such as events and launches.

We are less about the movement of the piece than we are about what moved the designer or watchmaker to create it in the first place.

We endeavour to get as close as possible to this original inspiration, the human story behind the mechanical marvel. We are also united in our mission to bring the stylish everyday wristwatch wearer back into the frame of global watch media.
We are less about the celebrity ambassador on the billboard than we are about the entirely unfamous watch wearer on the street: this discerning individual who has chosen to wear 17th century mechanical technology in a thoroughly digital age. Why did they choose today’s piece? What does it say about them? How did they come to own it in the first place?

So, a watch media platform for telling, and better still, sharing, stories about watches and wearers? You might say, “it’s about time.”

And, in the final instance, it is about time. “Time and tide waits for no man” is the very saying that inspired us to action. We know that the human heart is not a perpetual calendar. We also know that our so-called golden age is now and that it happens to be coinciding with yet another golden age for horology. Exciting times to say the least.

We look forward to telling watch stories and sharing wearer journeys that will inspire, educate and entertain.

Sincerely,
Time+Tide

DO FIRST GUYS FINISH LAST?

Now in its 60th year, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms watch has become a legend. A legend that is steeped in history. It is a history with three main protagonists: Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO for three decades from 1950-1980, who was himself a passionate diver, and Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, both of the French combat diving corps, who needed a watch for their military diving missions. These two poles come together to give birth to the legend. Blancpain was not part of the equation when Maloubier and Riffaud began their quest for a watch in the aftermath of…

The Future: Engineered for Women?

The ‘Ari’ by independent watchmaker Eva Leube. If you’re a discerning woman in the luxury watch world, you’re hard pressed to find a watch designed for a woman that isn’t quartz, the size of a men’s subdial or covered with stones. What happened? How did we come to this?  Where are the cutting edge watches for women? The luxury watch world is currently, for better or worse, a man’s, man’s world. Yet this wasn’t always the case. Here’s something you don’t hear about in most brand’s origin stories; wristwatches were originally designed to be worn by wealthy women. While men…