It's 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor's 2019 releases now?

Editor's note: The dust has well and truly settled on this year's watch releases, and they're starting to filter out into the world and onto wrists. This is as true with Tudor as it is with anyone else. Though we haven't seen any P01 watches out in the wild yet, we thought the timing was right to take another look at their 2019 highlights …  It's testament to the power and ongoing evolution of Tudor's blue-chip Black Bay family that our top three picks from Baselworld 2019 are all Black Bays, and also — from a distance at least — look…

7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum

Editor's note: Seiko is a brand with a pretty incredible history. And a lot of this history goes under the radar, to be honest. Which is why, when Sandra visited Tokyo last year we strongly suggested she make a detour to Seiko's Museum. Here's what she learned … If you're ever in Tokyo, I strongly recommend making time for a detour to Sumida. Where? A residential area north of Tokyo Skytree – a bit of a backwater, to be honest. Why? For the Seiko Museum. Even if you're not particularly a Seiko fan, it's full of horological discoveries. And if…

Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775)

Editor's note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models — but it's hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains …  Not a Radiomir to be seen this year at SIHH; lots of new Luminor Due variations (including a very good 38mm). However, with Angelo Bonati retiring in April from the brand he built from almost-zero to quite the hero, the halo piece has to be that most "Panerai" of all Panerais –…

Champagne campaign – the 37mm Rado Captain Cook Automatic now comes with a lovely light dial

Editor's note: It's no longer news that so-called smaller watches are back. And one of the leading lights in the movement is the Rado Captain Cook. The latest version, with a Champagne dial, is really something to celebrate.  We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook models, but now it's official. The fan favourite Rado Captain Cook Automatic in 37mm is now offered in a limited edition Champagne (or to give its official, but less romantic, name — brown sunbrushed) dial.  Dial aside, the details are unchanged: polished steel case, ceramic…

Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser

Editor's note: While the Pilot might be IWC's hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why …  There's a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC's most popular (in Australia at least). It's a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses a grace and charm that belies its large size. This combination makes it one of the go-to statement watches. But did you know that it's also got the weight of history behind it? A little while ago we chatted with IWC museum curator and general know-it-all…

RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide

I don't know about you, but I find navigating Casio's iconic and uber-tough G-Shock family a tricky process. It's a reference number dominated space which, to the outsider, is every bit as confusing as the worlds of vintage Rolex or Patek. Adding to the complexity is the sheer profusion of models. Limited editions, collaborations and colourways all play their part.  But if you'd like to get your head around the ways of the G-Shock quickly and efficiently you're in luck, because Gear Patrol's Allen Farmelo has written a no-holds-barred breakdown on the line. From Mudmasters to full metal models and…

A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date

Editor's note: The Marine is Breguet's star of the show at the moment, with a profusion of new models in the house — including some chic titanium options — but we can't help but have a soft spot for this elegant beast, the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date. What a looker …  We're willing to bet that when you think of Breguet, the first thing that comes to mind is slim elegance, or maybe the old-world charm of their vintage chronos. But a casual/luxury sports watch? Not so much. Nevertheless, that's exactly what the Marine 5817 is – Breguet's take…

That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas

Editor's note: We, along with the rest of the world, have been on a pretty heavy space-nostalgia trip of late. A trip that naturally led us back to Andrew's 2015 trip with Omega, to the Space Centre in Houston, a place that was, in many ways, ground zero for the mythos that surrounds the Speedy. Andrew's main question before this trip: Does the Speedy live up to the myth? Read on to find out …  You don't need to be in the watch industry very long to work out that it survives not on product but on stories. Watches without…

Looking back to the future with Rado's Captain Cook Mark III

Editor's note: You don't need to be a naval captain (or even a cook) to appreciate the lovely case shape and bold details of the Rado Captain Cook Mk III. So funky, so so smooth. The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it's time for the other side of the coin, the modern take on an old classic. Meet the Rado Tradition Captain Cook Mark III. On paper, it's a titanium-cased diver with an internal bezel. On the wrist, it's so much more. The titanium case is large (46mm large),…

The heavyweight – Patek Philippe's Nautilus Ref. 5740

Editor's note: I'm hoping that we can mark 2019 down in the history books as peak Nautilus-mania, but there's another part of my brain that isn't quite so sure. Either way, your odds of walking into ye oldie AD, dropping down some fat stacks and walking out with this complicated beauty, the Patek Philippe's Nautilus Ref. 5740, are veering heavily toward the 'none' on a spectrum of slim to none. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't try. Here's Sandra's review …  One of the big surprises of Baselworld 2018 was Patek Philippe's decision to add a grand complication model –…

David Beckham's Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best

Editor's note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn't one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks.  Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two of his Tudor watches. And I've got to say, as far as showing what a brand is all about, they're pretty hard to beat. The first video looks at the first Tudor watch Beckham owned and wore, a 1969 Snowflake Sub, which Beckham describes as…

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd

Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world's radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny's career in engraving didn't start with watches — he went through the far more traditional route of fine long gun engraving. And he didn't mess around either, starting at the top of the tree with James Purdey & Sons (a Richemont property, for those into the corporate ownership of luxury brands). I've never made a big mistake on a gun, like…

From stylish to rugged – 5 Montblanc watches that cover every base

Editor's note: The watches of Montblanc have been getting better and better over the last few years. Newer, cleaner designs and a streamlined product, along with smart value propositions mean that it's a brand that should be on your radar. Don't believe us? Here are five 2019 releases you should get across.  Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc's top watch guy, the brand's timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc's SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a…

Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute 

Editor's note: Jaquet Droz is a brand with an increasing presence on our fair shores. And while they're best known for their watches that exhibit a decent amount of both pomp and circumstance, there's a lot to be said for their simpler offerings, which are still distinctive as all get-out. Don't believe us? Check out the Astrale Grande Heure Minute …  Jaquet Droz is a brand that has built its reputation on incredible automata and extravagant finishing. Fluttering birds, delicate miniature painting, and exquisite handcrafts are all par for the course for the brand. Which is why this watch, the…

Slender and springy – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003

Editor's note: There's something in the air at Grand Seiko. The brand is busting out new designs left, right and centre. It's an exciting time to be a fan of Japan's premier watchmaker. Case in point, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 …   Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 and, boy, does the Spring Drive — that unique trifecta of electronic, kinetic and magnetic energy — feature strongly. But not just the Spring Drives you know and love, with that arching power reserve at eight. No, in honour of the movement's 20th anniversary, there…

Sports Luxury – 5 watches that deliver on both fronts

Editor's note: We're deep in the age of premium athleisure, so it makes sense that this patrician approach to utility is extending to our wrists. But can the two — seemingly polar opposite — aesthetics peacefully coexist? These five watches say yes.  Sports luxury is one of those ephemeral subgenres in watchland that hides a multitude of sins. It's easy for a watch maker to label any oversized solid-gold diver as sports luxe, but the reality is that most of these watches will never see any actual sports time. Frankly, that's not good enough. So we found a select handful…

RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59

It's fair to say at this point of 2019 that the CODE 11.59 collection from Audemars Piguet has been the most widely panned watch release of the year, if not recent years. It was in some ways a perfect storm of critical disapproval, poor PR and a pack mentality that got pretty nasty. But pictures on Instagram tell only a tiny fraction of the story, and they're certainly not a great way to judge a watch. Which is why, when we saw this collector review over on Deployant, we were intrigued. Christian Kretschmar picked up a black-dialled time-only piece after…

In-house movements – what are they and do they even matter?

Editor's note: Sandra wrote this lovely piece at the start of the year, and it speaks to one of the biggest movements (if you'll pardon the pun) in the watch industry over the last few decades – the rise of the in-house movement. I won't steal Sandra's thunder, but suffice to say it's worth a read.  If you're considering buying a new watch, one of the least important questions you should ask is: "Does it have an in-house movement?" To be blunt: the mere existence of an in-house movement does not necessarily equate to a better watch. So why do…

Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary

Editor's note: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary is an oldie but a goodie. And not an oldie in the 1950-something sense, but rather in the, 'this 2017 limited edition is probably all gone by now'. But it's very much the definition of a modern heritage banger.  The hardest thing when re-creating a vintage watch design is knowing when to stop. Some changes — swapping the plexiglass crystal for sapphire, and upgrading the movement — are logical, and others, like an increase in size to more modern dimensions, make sense. But the real art is knowing where to stop, and what…

Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

Editor's note: Steel sports is all well and good, but there's something very appealing about the iconic Datejust in this steel and gold livery, with a warm brown dial and diamond hour markers. Especially with that bezel and band. Primo …  There are two main contenders for the title of 'most recognisable watch in the world', both of them made by Rolex. Naturally, the Submariner has a good shot at the title but, for me, the clear winner is the Datejust. First introduced in 1945, it includes one of the most useful and ubiquitous complications – a date window. Like many features…

A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph

Editor's note: Some watches you can't get out of your head, and the fun and friendly TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph from 2018 is one such watch. We can't get over those pops of colour! The story in a second: Classic Carrera. More colour. If you spend more than a few minutes in the sometimes crazy world of watches, it's easy to lose perspective. You can very quickly get caught up in the hullabaloo of new this, in-house that, and proprietary the other. But while all that stuff is cool and sometimes really matters, at the end of the…

6 of the best Longines Heritage releases

Editor's note: Few brands play their heritage cards as strongly as Longines. Certainly it helps that the brand has more heritage than most to work with, so much so that we're practically spoiled for choice. Here are Cameron's six top picks from the Longines Heritage lineup …  Right now in the world of watchmaking, there's a distinctly warm and fuzzy feeling of nostalgia in the air. A sentiment that is owed in no small part to Longines, who more than 10 years ago pioneered the popular heritage reissue trend we all know and love today. With a history that stretches…

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 4 — the St Exupéry collection

Ladies and gentlemen, we've begun our descent. Now that we've completed our overview of the Top Gun, Spitfire and Classic collections we'd ask you to stow your tray tables and please pay attention to the final instalment in our series – the IWC Pilot's St Exupéry collection.  Now, IWC's St Exupéry watches are named for the famed author of Le Petit Prince, who was also, it turns out, a pioneering aviator, and he was lost during a reconnaissance flight over the Mediterranean in 1944. IWC's watches honouring the man and his works take two main forms — the Le Petit…

The Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu is a winner of a watch

Editor's note: This watch might not be the newest release but, by gosh, it's as fresh today as the day it passed final quality control. We take another look at the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu …  Ulysse Nardin pulled out all the stops for its first SIHH showing. In a fair characterised by conservative product releases, the Le Locle-based manufacturer presented a strong line-up of novelties, with a strong nautical theme. Highlights included the new regatta timer, the technically impressive Marine Grand Deck, as well as this watch – the Classico Manufacture Grand Feu. This very traditional timepiece is jam-packed with smart…

8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos

Editor's note: A little while ago we went off-script with our watch coverage, making a short, snappy series of videos that — in a decidedly tongue-in-cheek manner — aimed to assist you in your Tudor purchasing decision. Here's our take on the archetypal Tudor Pelagos wearer. And if you've got a Pelagos on your wrist and you're not wearing a single item of Patagonia, isn't it time you questioned your life choices?  "Which watch should I get?" It's the first, and hardest, question to answer for any watch lover (shortly followed by "which watch should I get next?"), and our…

Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla

Editor's note: Not everything in the watch world has to be same-samey. And the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla is a great example of that. It's got two crowns, a big, cushiony case and style for days. If left-of-centre is your thing, you'll want to have a read of Andy's review …  A parcel recently landed on my desk. It had made the journey all the way from the United Kingdom, and it contained two pieces from British microbrand Farer Universal. Launched earlier this year, these models made waves with their colourful dials and brightly accentuated designs. So when the opportunity…

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor's note: It's 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I've got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph is a fabulous looking example. Here's Justin's review from when it was released, back in 2018 …  There's no denying how many of us are often frustrated by the frequent "mild updates" launched by brands — new dial colours, new case and bezel materials,…

Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch

Editor's note: Last night, Longines went live with their online shopping facility, and I've spent a bit of time browsing what's on offer. And it should come as no surprise that I'm pretty into the 'heritage' section of the site. And one watch, which I saw last year and was really taken by, is the Longines Skin Diver. So I thought the timing was right for another look …  Longines heritage reissues are — much like the designs they're inspired by — the stuff of legend. And speaking of legends, you might notice that the dial design of the Skin…

Our 3 favourite Longines models available to buy in Australia, in store … and online

Longines has had a big few months in Australia. They opened their first Melbourne boutique a little while back, on Collins Street in the heart of the city's luxury district. And now their watches are available online, direct from the brand.  It's something that would have been unimaginable even a few years ago — a major Swiss brand, selling directly online. But it's 2019 and the future is digital. Well, except for the watches, that is — they're resolutely analogue, and proudly mechanical. In celebration of this upcoming e-commerce launch, Andrew dropped into the boutique to choose his picks that…

Dive into the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic

Editor's note: Sometimes, amid all the hullaballoo around specifications, it's easy to forget what makes watches fun. Sure, helium escape valves can play a part in that. But if we're completely honest, it's about how a watch looks on the wrist, and makes us feel. And by those metrics, the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic is a winner …  Over the years I've had a few run-ins with UK-based brand Christopher Ward, having reviewed some of their older world time and jump hour watches. I've never tried one of their more mainline pieces on for size though, but when I…

5 great watch-related gifts you can buy for Father's Day from the Time+Tide Shop

Down here in Australia, Father's Day is celebrated on September 1, which happens to be — wait for it — this Sunday, AKA a mere six sleeps away. Which, in the scheme of retail and everyone's busy life, isn't that long at all. So, as a helpful reminder, we've put together five banging Father's Day gifts from our shop, which, if you order them quick smart, should make it in time. Failing that, you can always print off the confirmation email and pop it in with a nice card.  So whether you're a watch-loving dad who's looking to helpfully forward…

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions

Editor's note: Being a pilot who's into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that's the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here's a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, what's your daily watch and why? I don't have a daily watch per se, though I have my eye on a particular piece right now, so that may change soon! I bought all my watches to wear, so I tend to rotate them as much…

Would Lil Yachty rock this Rolex Yacht-Master 40? Who knows, but it's cool

Editor's note: If you ever want to flex down at the NBAYOUNGBOAT Club, you want to have the appropriate attire — jacket, loafers, watch. And when it comes to the latter, we suggest the Yacht-Master. Surely, Lil Yachty would approve.  This cool, calm and collected new Yacht-Master almost slipped past me. I was too busy falling in love (again) with the gold and chocolate Rolesor Yacht-Master, which was distracting me and dazzling my senses. But then, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a flash of almost-iridescent blue, and my curiosity was piqued. I'm so glad it was, because…

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 3 – the Classic collection

We're now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot's family — we've covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we're hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches form the core of the collection, and are all about simplicity, function and legibility. Andrew picked out two key models from the line and, in some ways, they're polar opposites, even though the visual similarities are very strong. The IWC Big Pilot's watch Large, and…

ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia

Welcome to the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey! That time when we put some hard-hitting questions into a survey program, work some internet magic and set it free, for all you good people out there to answer. One lucky Australian survey respondent will win a TAG Heuer Autavia chronograph for their troubles. Take the survey now You should be familiar with this heritage-inspired chronograph, but if you're not — here's what you need to know. International folks are welcome to take part, and we encourage you to, but sadly the international competition logistics make it practically impossible to open such a…

3 things you need to know about the Seiko Prospex LX collection

Editor's note: The Seiko Prospex LX collection has finally hit Australian shores, so we thought we'd revisit this piece from Baselworld, where the design guru largely responsible for the look of the new line dropped some LX-oriented knowledge …  Seiko's Baselworld press conference is one of my few must-not-miss appointments, if only for a much-needed dose of humour. But for me, the real star of this year's affair was Ken Okuyama. Mr Okuyama is an industrial designer with an eponymous studio, who made his name in the world of prestige cars, with a folio including such epic vehicles as the…

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris

Editor's note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn't cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it's a few years old, I still can't get out of my head. Here's Cam's review … The story in a second: Disco might be dead, but the '70s live on in Oris' latest re-edition. A decade for experimentation, the '70s was an era of bold shapes and brightly coloured designs (men's…

Another look at the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph

Editor's note: In the last few years Montblanc has made quite the pivot away from the dressier end of the watch spectrum, to some sportier, more robust models. Case in point, the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph from a few years ago now. While Montblanc is not a mainstream chronograph brand, with watches this smart, it's certainly worth a look …  Earlier this year I had a chance to have a look at Montblanc's pre-SIHH offerings in scenic Wyoming, including this smart new evolution of the TimeWalker, the TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph. There are two big changes to this 43mm sports chronograph;…

Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq

Editor's note: When we're talking about fine watches, our eyes are typically drawn to Switzerland and (to a lesser extent) Germany and Japan. But occasionally you can find some quality closer to home. That was the case when the Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer landed on my desk around this time last year. The quality (especially in the case) is up there with the mid-tier Swiss guys, and the look is a little less cookie-cutter than what you typically get from your average upstart offering. Read on …  Given that T+T is an Australian-based site, I've spent a fair amount of…

The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph

Editor's note: This year we've been a little guilty of gushing all over the brand spanking new Octo Finissimo Chronograph, but it's worth remembering that this shiny new star isn't the only Octo Chrono in the mix. Meet the definitely not thin Bulgari Octo Chronograph …  One of the marks of a strong watch design is that it can be reimagined without losing its potency. Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or pretty well any Rolex are all excellent examples of this rule. The same goes for the Octo — a distinct watch that didn't actually begin its life with…

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

Editor's note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they're not front of mind, they're in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on …  The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it's nice to stop and look back on the…

A closer look at TAG Heuer's Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic 

Editor's note: Earlier this week we had a look at a few TAG Heuer Tourbillons, including the impressive new Nanograph — with its fancy new carbon escapement and yellow highlights. But we've also still got the hots for one of the original models, this all-black beauty clad in ultra-tough ceramic. Dark, meet handsome.  Owning a tourbillon is a dream for many watch-loving folks. The little, eternally whirling cages, designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a timepiece's isochronism, aren't particularly practical, though they hold within them a charm that in many ways sums up the appeal of mechanical watches.…

The ultimate watch glossary – the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest

In the latest instalment of our glossary series (you can see all our educational style content here), we tackle one of the most overlooked (and most important) elements of a watch. The bit that attached it to your wrist – buckles and clasps in all their forms …  The tang buckle, also known as the pin or ardillon buckle   The most common type of buckle in the watch industry. The Tang/Pin/Ardillon buckle looks very much like a traditional belt buckle. The tail end of the strap is threaded through the loop of the buckle, and held in place by…

All aboard the Omega Railmaster

Editor's note: A little while ago, someone on a FB watch group I'm part of asked what watch they should buy (out of three versatile, black-dialled tool watches), with one option being the Omega Railmaster. I didn't have to think about my answer. It was the Railmaster. Hands down. Read on for my reasons why … Odd as it may seem today, but many of the enduring designs of mid-20th century watchmaking sprang from a very specific purpose: scientific exploration and the quest for accuracy. The Omega Railmaster, one of their original professional models, stands alongside other great names like…

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 2 – the Spitfire collection

Following on from last week's look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome black and steel, or a particularly warm bronze and olive green. The bronze alloy is not the bright bronze that you might expect, and already has a world-worn feel that plays well with the military-inspired olive green dial.  The other standout feature of this collection…

Rolex reach for the skies with the Sky-Dweller

Editor's pick: The Rolex Sky-Dweller is, along with the Yacht-Master II, the most complex offering in the brand's current catalogue. Two time zones, an elegant calendar and a very, very cool bezel make for a serious piece of watchmaking. Add in the simplified dials and Rolesor cases of this latest batch and it's a watch that's stratospheric.  For years, the Sky-Dweller has been one of the most interesting and least understood modern Rolexes. It's one of the most complicated watches in their lineup, as a luxury traveller's watch, and is the patrician elder brother of the tool-like GMT-Master II. This…

Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado Captain Cook 45mm

Editor's note: Rado's star is firmly in ascendance these days, and that's thanks to watches like their popular Captain Cook Reissue. And while we've got a whole lot of love for the smaller versions, sometimes — no matter what people say — size does matter. So, how about 45mm of Rado Captain Cook goodness?  Rado's HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch-perfect 37mm reissue. And while there's a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that's OK because…

What you need to know before buying a vintage watch

There are many potential pitfalls you could encounter when buying a luxury watch. Especially if it's your first time. The desire to make a seasoned choice right off the bat is understandable, but it's important you don't put too much pressure on yourself to get it exactly right first time. In fact, making mistakes is part of the fun, and definitely part of the learning process. It certainly doesn't feel like a barrel of laughs when you make a purchase that turns out to be a total waste of money, but you'll never make that mistake again. If you find…

Understanding the IWC Pilot's family part 1 – the Top Gun collection

IWC is famous for their pilot's watches, and rightfully so — they're instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose — as a navigational tool for aviators — the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. Today, IWC's pilot's family consists of four distinct sub-collections: Spitfire, the Saint Exupéry watches, the Classics, and the boldly modern Top Gun selection. Over the next four weeks we're going to explore each of these groups in detail, kicking off with Top Gun.  Top Gun,…

The watches we bought because someone told us to

Editor's note: Last year we did a team whip around and asked ourselves what watches we bought, not for us, but because other people told us we should. We might not like to admit it, but it's true. So here we go, the watches we've bought because of peer pressure.  Humans are, by and large, social creatures. We thrive in communities, and derive strength, support and inspiration from others. At least, that's the view if you're an optimist. If you're a glass half empty kinda person, feel free to replace the word community with mob. Either way, these broad general…

A brief history of time – as seen by Chanel

Editor's note: Chanel has been making watches for a little while now, but in recent years they've been rocketing up the cool, and the credibility stakes. But this spirit of change and commitment doesn't emerge from a vacuum, as Sandra discovers …  It's a paradox that a luxury house as conspicuously feminine as Chanel should always have had a gender-bending streak. So here comes a quick bit of fashion history – and before you watch geeks roll your eyes and change the channel, let me say that this will help explain everything about Chanel's watches. Including why they are not…

Unfathomably inky – Moser's Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

Editor's note: Without doubt, the most popular dial colour for men's watches is black. So, here's the blackest, darkest dial we can think of — the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. To find out why this watch is so impossibly dark of dial, read on …  Few colours have the symbolic weight of black. It's meaningful in pretty much every culture. It's associated — naturally enough — with darkness, mourning and solemnity, and with endings and beginnings. It's also a colour of power and authority. All these associations and emotions are tied up in Moser's latest conceptual…

5 affordable vintage watch options

Watch collecting has never been more present in the public consciousness. Before the quartz revolution of the 1970s, the idea of collecting watches was probably akin to collecting modern vacuum cleaners. It just didn't make much sense. An old watch wasn't vintage; it was just old. And a watch that was still ticking, and keeping time to a reasonable degree? Well, that was just fine and dandy. Perhaps a very well-to-do man might have had one watch for work, and another for special occasions, but these faithful companions would have been expected to remain with him for years and years…

The 11 most exciting chronographs of 2018

For some, money is no object. For most, this is far from the case, but still an enjoyable intellectual exercise of "what if". So, what if you win the lottery, and after taking care of the dull administrative duties (mortgage, student loan, etc), you decide to treat yourself to a couple of nice watches and, in this hypothetical, these watches will be chronographs? Lucky for you, we've prepared a list just for this circumstance — the most exciting chronographs of 2018. TAG HEUER MONACO CALIBRE 11 BAMFORD LIMITED EDITION When it comes to the customisation of watches, George Bamford is considered…

Will the next 007 be a woman? And if so, will she wear a Seamaster?

Editor's note: The other week, the Bond-centric rumour mill (which is an oddly specific, but proliferate sub-genre of the internet) went wild over (entirely unsubstantiated) reports of 007 being replaced by Lashana Lynch (note, she's cited as being the next 007, not the next Bond). It seems like the sort of story tailor-made to drive the internet into a frenzy — flipping the gender switch on traditional masculine icons seems to be quite en vogue right now. And while a black, female 007 is something we can very much get behind, the real question is what would her watch be? Omega, obviously,…

What makes a watch a keeper?

Editor's note: Flipping is one of the hot-button watch issues of 2019, and TBH we're a little over it. So here's the other side of the equation — what makes a watch a keeper? In this story from a few years back we asked our readers what made their watches keepers, and then we chimed in on the personal keepers …  Without getting too first-year political science on you – the basis of modern life is disposability. We live in a consumer society. And that's what we do – we consume. Everything is designed to be discarded and replaced with…

10 great chronographs under $10K

Chronographs are both one of the most popular complications on a wristwatch, as well as one of the most challenging to produce. That said, you don't have to take out a bank loan to have a quality chronograph in your watch, so we've compiled a list of 10 great chronographs under $10K. BALTIC BICOMPAX 001 SLATE GREY Like many of the watch world's latest start-ups, French brand Baltic had their break on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, raising more than €500,000 and offering customers the choice of two vintage-inspired models – a time-only and a dual register chronograph. Inspired by the step-case…

Have watch will travel, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC in steel

Editor's note: These days, Girard-Perregaux might be best known for their sporty Laureato line, but they have a rich tradition in dressier pieces, which sit in their 1966 collection. This world timer, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC, is a case in point — an excellent, dressier take on a complication that traditionally leans to the busier side of life. Read on for the review …  Girard-Perregaux is one of Swiss watchmaking's best-kept secrets. The La Chaux-de-Fonds based brand offers a complete — and compelling — package, fine pedigree, and a catalogue that ranges from the highest of high horology through to…

To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection

Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I'd assume that's because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you're about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you're doing so because you think it will make you rich, don't. If you started (or are about to start) collecting watches because you love them, welcome to the club. Everyone's watch journey is different. They can depend on means and opportunities, or tastes and trends, or any number of…

This charming watch – explaining the Tudor Heritage Advisor

Editor's note: I've always had a real soft spot for the Tudor Heritage Advisor. Not only is the alarm one of my favourite complications, but this watch — for all that it's an outlier in the current catalogue — is a hugely important piece in the modern rebirth of Tudor. Read on to find out why …  Last year, Tudor unveiled its first manufacture movement to nigh-on internet-breaking levels of fanfare and buzz. So impressive was the MT-5621 that it overshadowed the retro-modern North Flag that showcased it. But it's a little remarked upon fact that Tudor's first foray into in-house happened way…

5 of the best affordable dress watches


Affordability is a difficult thing to pin down. What is easily affordable for one person may be eternally out of reach for another. So, to avoid making too many assumptions, this article will include five watches that each feature in a different price bracket. These are picks for five of the best affordable dress watches in their respective categories. Under $1000, the Hamilton Ardmore $650 AUD There's been a rumour abounding for years that Richard Gere wears a Hamilton Ardmore. While the veracity of that claim is hard to pin down, it certainly wouldn't look out of place on his…

Eureka! Joining the Casio gold rush

Editor's note: I'll be honest, there is a part of me that really likes this watch. There is something about a gold-tone full-metal G-Shock that appeals to the same part of my brain that is excited by a solid gold Doxa; it's a part tickled by totally unnecessary extravagance that is just so fun. Luckily, Cam put together his thoughts on what it's like to own one of these nuggets, which is well worth a read if you haven't yet. I have a confession to make: In 2018, I, Cameron Wong, did not purchase a single watch for myself. Not…

Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase

Editor's pick: If you're in the market for a massive, 45mm manually winding dress watch with more power than you can shake a mainspring at, we think the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase might just be up your alley …  Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I've got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized IWC Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it's because there's a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of power, but partially I think…

A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune

Editor's note: Dive watches tend to be simple affairs, but not always. Justin embraces complexity (and calendars) in his review of the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune. Read on …  The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection — especially one with such a rich history as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms — is a challenge at the best of times. Do you stick to classic tool watch roots? Do you step outside the box with a complication or design with more commercial appeal? Do you start toying with…

RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren't so safe

It's long been a staple of watch collecting advice and lore — don't keep your watches in your sock drawer or consumer-grade safe, keep them in a safe deposit box. Well, that old adage is looking a little stretched on the basis of a recent article in The New York Times, which recounts the harrowing tale of a watch collector who rocked up to his bank one day to discover his collection of watches gone. And it wasn't the result of a daring heist, instead the much more banal human error. Even worse, he had precious little legal recourse or…

Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT

Editor's note: Bruce doesn't write for us too much, but when he does, it's absolute gold. From his classic Batman review to this extended wear of the Tudor Black Bay GMT. A great, insightful take on one of the hottest pieces in the market right now.  When the Tudor Black Bay GMT debuted this year at Basel it would've been easy to describe it as being overshadowed by the much-hyped Rolex GMT that was also showcased. But it's not that simple. The Tudor is a hit in its own right, and I knew I had to have one. I had…

Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018

For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of tracking rotating spokes around a circle, who want something simpler (or more complex), these are the watches for you. Employing discs, screens, apertures and even revolving orbs, this is our shortlist of the best watches without hands from 2018. G-SHOCK GMWB5000D-1 35TH ANNIVERSARY SILVER ALL…

5 of the best affordable chronographs — from quartz to mechanical 

We analyse a lot of watches on a daily basis. Being able to identify the difference between a sales pitch and a practical benefit to the end-user is something we take very seriously. We see swathes of new brands attempting to differentiate themselves from their peers through a variety of creative strategies on the regular. But perhaps the most common area of manipulation is price. It is common now to hear an identikit spiel from the majority of new brands looking for crowdfunding. It is so common to offer luxury at an accessible price that it's about as effective as shouting…

The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5

Editor's note: I've got a real soft spot for the TAG Heuer Link — and indeed for integrated bracelets more generally. It's such an evocative design for the brand, and one that is due for a serious comeback (if everything else '90s is an indication). So, have another look at the cool, clear lines of the latest Link in Cam's review …  For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It's an age when we're expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly…

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Editor's note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn't yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five — it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at …  The story in a second: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five really could be a case study as to what a truly excellent vintage reissue should look like – all the elements are there, including classic good looks, fidelity to an historic model, contemporary convenience and credit card-friendly price.…

Ultimate transparency — Hublot's sapphire evolution, in 13 watches

Editor's note: While Hublot didn't create the first sapphire-cased watch (that honour goes to Alain Silberstein of all people), the big, bold brand has done an impressive amount of work in a relatively short time to make the ultra-hard, ultra-cool case material mainstream. Don't believe us? Here's Sandra's 2017 timeline of how it went down …  First things first, what is sapphire crystal? Essentially, it's the same stuff used to make a watch 'glass' and display casebacks, formed by crystallising aluminium oxide at very high temperatures to create an extremely hard material. Roughly speaking, it mimics what Earth has taken…

No downsides to the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down

Editor's note: The other day I caught up with someone who'd recently picked up an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down, and holding it in my hand — by golly gosh, those German guys at ALS know their way around a watch. This piece might not be their most complicated or most hyped, but it's pretty perfect …  Even though there's no doubt that the darlings of A. Lange & Söhne's lineup are the more contemporarily styled pieces like the Lange One and the Zeitwerk, there's still a place for deeply traditional design in the catalogue of Glashütte's favourite son…

Set sail for glory with the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur

Editor's note: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur is a very interesting watch — a mix of modern build and very, very classical design. It's a winner.  Story in a second The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur shows a new, focused and driven face of Ulysse Nardin. I'm going to start this review talking not about mechanical watches, but naval warfare. In the late 19th and early 20th century, naval dominance was all about massive floating fortresses, with thick plate armour and a massed battery of cannons. These ships, which culminated in the dreadnought class of battleships, were the undisputed masters of…

That time we got into a fight over Hermès

Editor's note: OK, so 'fight' might be a touch hyperbolic, but back when the Hermès Slim d'Hermès was first released it caused quite a stir. The most ardent fans were Ceri and Felix, and this is an account of their slightly tête-à-tête over this elegant, well-designed watch …  The story in a second With a slender profile, top-notch movement and a dial to die for, the Slim d'Hermès has a lot more going for it than just the name. Hermès might be better known for its much-coveted Birkin bags than high-end horology, but the Slim d'Hermès looks set to change all that. First unveiled in 2015,…

RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner

Editor's note: People love seeing the insides of a Rolex. Perhaps it's because of their popularity or perhaps it's the fact that their insides are always hidden behind a solid caseback. Whatever the reason, people love the chance to get a glimpse at these industrially impressive machines. So, here's another look at that time Peter Speake-Marin took the mighty Rolex Submariner apart.  If you follow the world of independent watchmaking you're likely familiar with the name Peter Speake-Marin. Until recently, Speake-Marin was the man behind the eponymous watch brand. After 17 years, the English watchmaker stepped away from the brand…

The lovely bones – Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue

Editor's note: If you look at the profile of this Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue, there isn't a lot to see. That's because the watch is so darned thin! But the dial-side more than makes up for it, because Bulgari has cut the dial open, exposing all manner of goodness inside. Read on for Cam's review …  The story in a second: So thin you can see through it. If you were to summarise Bulgari's approach to design and modern-day watchmaking, the Octo would be the result. In less than a decade, the Italian manufacturer has turned a single…

The case, the dial, the Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar

Editor's note: You know heritage has moved from 'trend' to 'the new normal' when Patek Philippe (that most conservative of Swiss mavens) release what is, essentially, a heritage re-release, back in 2017 …  Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hardcore collectors has slipped into the mainstream, and somewhere along the way it became a key pillar in major brands' release strategies. In 2007 it was very much novelty, now it's the new normal. Case in point is Patek Philippe's hero model of 2017 – the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, an undeniably handsome…

It's complicated – the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel

Editor's note: If big, do-anything, go-anywhere tickers are your jam, you'll definitely want to check out the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel. This is a serious piece of traveller's kit, and a good-looking one at that. Read on for Justin's review …  The story in a second: It's big, it's complicated, it's bloody clever. I've said it once and I'll say it again: I've got a real soft spot for German watchmaking, but especially for Glashütte Original. Underappreciated, and painfully under-marketed anywhere outside of Europe, they are one of VERY few brands that manufacture their own dials and cases…

Feeling thin with the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin date pink gold

Editor's note: A little while ago, Andrew spent a week with the slender beauty that is the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin date, an unusual expedition into the world of ultra-slim dress watches. So, here goes …  This week on the wrist is borne almost purely out of curiosity. I have tried on Piaget Altiplano watches over the years and found them unusually comfortable to wear. In interviews and conversations with Altiplano owners, there's always a resounding refrain of, "It's hard to go back to heavier/larger/thicker watches once you get used to it". So, when given the chance to have an…

Everything you need to know about the Cartier Tank

Editor's note: The Cartier Tank is a watch with an incredible century (and then some) history, and a list of famous fans as long as your arm. Sandra runs through some of the variants on this classic watch, and some of its celebrity owners. Outstanding.  For any designer, regardless of product type, the holy grail is to create an object that so perfectly balances form and function and so elegantly expresses an aesthetic that it will not only last for many generations but will forever look as modern as it did when it left the drawing board. Among those rare…

A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high

Editor's note: Beyond being one of the greatest tennis players of our time, Novak Djokovic is a pretty great watch ambassador. He's been with Seiko since 2014, and over the years the watch he's most often seen wearing (and occasionally lending his name to a limited edition) is the Astron. So, after he beat Roger Federer to claim the Wimbledon men's final in an epic match (four hours and 57 minutes!), it was no surprise to see him with an Astron on his wrist as he claimed the cup. Specifically, he was wearing the latest titanium-cased Seiko Astron 5X, the…

Dialled in for speed – the Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer

Editor's note: For some reason we can't quite place (one small step might have something to do with it though), we've got the Speedmaster on our mind. And while this Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer we first looked at in 2017 isn't particularly limited or hype-y, it's still a super hot version of THE chronograph …  The case It's a Speedmaster, so no real surprises with the case. It looks and feels much like every other Speedmaster, except for its contemporary dimensions: it clocks in larger than your regular Speedy, at a not insubstantial 44.25mm wide, but it wears well,…

44mm of Japanese brawn – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G)

Editor's note: Sure, the mighty Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium (ref. SBGE215G to its friends) might lack the fancy dials of the Snowflake and the new manual-wind Spring Drives but, good golly, it makes up for it in sheer presence. The case, the bezel, the gold detailing. It bangs.  It's fair to say that much of Grand Seiko's catalogue leans towards the dressier end of the spectrum — but, of course, there are exceptions, and the SBGE215G is a perfect example. This sporty GMT is an evolution of the SBGE201G; it shares the same large 44mm case. But…

RECOMMENDED READING: How the Rolex Submariner became an icon and inspired legions of copycats

For many, the Rolex Submariner is the watch. The default, the archetype. In some ways the watch has transcended its original function and become a totemic symbol for aspiration, class and cool. It is, after all, the original watch of James Bond. On the other hand, it's still a superlative tool, designed for the dangerous job of diving, a job it still excels at. The fact that the Sub can balance these two faces has a lot to do with its success. As does its long, sustained production run and the fact that a Submariner from 1954 will look pretty…

The heavy-hitting Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509)

Editor's note: For Daytona fans, everyone's all about the Cerachrom bezels these days. And while it's hard to deny the allure of that super-hard, slick material, I prefer my bezels metal, and preferably precious. Which is why I'm still so into this 2016 release, the Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509). I mean, just check it out …  Two thousand and sixteen will surely go down in the annals of watch-lore as the year of the Daytona. Not only did Rolex finally update their stainless steel icon, but they also unveiled two new precious metal versions.…

RECOMMENDED READING: Ever wonder how many Kickstarter watches actually get off the ground? 

For better or worse, Kickstarter is now a firmly entrenched part of the watch production, retail and marketing landscape. Watches have historically been a phenomenally popular category on the crowdfunding platform, but for every glittering success story, there's an equal number of projects left on the cutting room floor.  If you're the kind of curious cat who's wanted to know more about the data behind Kickstarter watch projects, boy is it your lucky day. WatchPro posted this snazzy report from Swiss consulting company Mercury Project, who break down the data in interesting, and meaningful ways. Turns out just more than half…

The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic 

Editor's note: The other day I was spending some time at my local Blancpain stockist, and I found my eyes consistently being drawn to the Bathyscaphe (which was only a little awkward as I was meant to be checking out Blancpain's 2019 releases, which was a decidedly Bathyscaphe-free zone). And while the Bathy is offered in a few variants, one of the coolest is the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic …  Blancpain's Bathyscaphe is one of those rare, chameleonic watch designs. A watch that, broadly speaking, owes great fidelity to its primogenitor, but a watch that doesn't look…

Gin in the game – 3 of the best Australian gins

It used to be that a bottle of Tanqueray 10, Bombay Sapphire or Plymouth Dry London Gin marked the pinnacle of class and sophistication at your local bottle shop. Now, if you stumble into any national, mega-mart boozer, it's the Aussie gins that receive top nods. So when did Australian gins become so cool and are they going to stay that way? We'd say it's around the time vodka was out. That would be when the internet became an everyman's amenity and bartenders no longer had to scrimp and save for an educational pilgrimage to New York anymore. They could…

The ultimate watch glossary – chronograph scales. What they mean and how they work

Over the last few weeks we've written three (count them, one, two and three) pieces explaining the what of watches. Thus far we've been pretty general, but today we get a lot more particular. Today we're talking chronograph scales — those numbers at the edge of the dial that we're pretty sure no one really uses. But they do have a function. And here are three of the more common variants you'll see … Tachymeter scale The tachymeter is far and away the most common scale printed on the bezel or the dial of a chronograph. Often associated with racing…

The fresh-faced Rolex Air-King ref. 116900

Editor's note: The Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 is the brand's entry into their world of professional watches, but it's also a piece that stands out in the line-up, thanks to its unusual dial layout and colourful logo. We take another look at this now three-year-old watch, below. Rolex famously espouses a philosophy of evolution, not revolution – and its product releases are so reliably incremental that you could, well, set your watch by them. Except when they're not. Every so often, Rolex does something that breaks from its evolutionary mantra. Witness the Sky-Dweller, the platinum Daytona and now, the latest generation of…

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

Editor's note: With the announcement of Tudor's ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019, we found our minds turned, inexplicably, to the darker things in life. And while the chances of owning that dark phantom are slender, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark is a much more achievable goal …  The story in a second: It's time you met the dark horse of the Black Bay family. After four years of tantalising, tactical releases culminating in the near-perfect surprise announcement of the Black Bay Black last year, we weren't expecting a new Black Bay in 2016. Well, we were wrong.…

VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont's 2019 collection 

When Bremont burst onto the scene more than 10 years ago they were disruptive outsiders in a staid and often slow-moving industry. Since that time, the brand has gone from strength to strength — something that's reflected in the solid, no-nonsense watches they make. And the Bremont 2019 collection is no exception, as we found out from co-founder Nick English …  Bremont S300 White "It stemmed from the Supermarine … and the 300 is the 40mm version of that. We've come up with a white dial with a blue ceramic polished bezel, which is very, very lovely." Bremont MBIII 10th…

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer

Editor's note: The longer I spend around watches, the less I find myself in bells and whistles (Patek alarms and Jaquet Droz excepted). In fact, I find myself more and more drawn to simple, pure designs that just work. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a perfect example of this. On the surface there's nothing flashy or fancy about this watch. But it's precisely this steadfast design and supreme versatility that makes this watch such a winner …  It's easy to think of the Carrera as purely a collection of chronographs, as that complication is where its roots…

That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it

Editor's note: If you spend more than a few minutes in that wonderful (and terrifying) thing that is the watch community, you'll quickly become familiar with the larger-than-life figure that is Adam Craniotes. Today we found out that Adam has just become the Editor-in-Chief of Revolution USA, for which he has our heartfelt congratulations. So, we thought we would celebrate by digging out this video of the man himself telling tall tales about his watch, and the chicanery he went to to acquire it.  If you like watches (you do) and exist in a digital age (also affirmative) there's a…

Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor's note: Trust Breguet to take the comparatively uncomplicated act of adding a second time zone into something extra. Rather than your typical GMT hand scenario, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 demonstrates a very cool, very technical twist on the complication. Read on for Sandra's review …  The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 made its first appearance in 2011, to an enthusiastic reception. Then, in 2016, when Breguet launched an updated version (ref. 5727) they spoke of it as a replacement for the original. But some things are simply too special to discontinue. Thank goodness – for we…

The incredible history of the Breitling Emergency

Editor's note: If you want to impress someone with how cool your watch is, it's hard to beat the Breitling Emergency. We revisit Ben's story from a few years back to find out why …  There are few watches that live up to their marketing hype, and even fewer that can claim to have genuinely saved lives. Breitling has long been considered the pilot's watch of choice, but it was the Breitling Emergency that solidified the company's commitment to aviators and adventurers around the world with one truly unique complication — the personal locator beacon. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this…

Why I lie about the number of watches I own

Editor's note: Cam wrote this snappy little opinion piece for us last year, and you know what — we still don't know how many watches he owns. More than two, and less than 20 … we think.  I think we've all found ourselves in a similar situation. You're at a BBQ, surrounded by friends and family, and everything is going great. The food is good, the drinks are cold, and the stereo is pumping out banger after banger, like it was playing straight from your Spotify playlist. While all around you the conversations are flowing and everyone is happily mingling.…

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original?

Editor's note: It's an tricky question, but the new Railmaster makes a compelling case for the 'yes' camp …  Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn't the only Railmaster released last year. No, there's also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch that formed (along with the Speedmaster and the Seamaster) one part of the triumvirate of watches that makes up the 1957 Trilogy series. The version not included in the boxed set is limited to 3557 pieces, and, like the rest of the trilogy, is a…

You need to follow @jackwongyf on Instagram right now

Editor's note: The other day we posted a bonkers video from @jackwongyf on our Instagram. It was a super ratty Rolex GMT-Master 1675 that had, underneath the grime and scratches, one heck of a surprise. Check it out. And then we remembered that Andy interviewed banker and self-described vintage watch hoarder Jack Wong a little while ago. So, we thought you might enjoy a perspective from the Jack Wong lyf.  Hi Jack, what's your daily watch and why? To be honest, I don't have a daily watch, I usually pick something to go with the day's mood. So then, what is…

Tom Selleck on why he still wears his 'Magnum, P.I.' Rolex

Editor's note: Men don't come much manlier than Tom Selleck's Magnum, P.I. This guy had it all – the car, the 'stache and, most importantly, the watch. Last year the FHH ran an excellent interview with the man himself and his watch. It's awesome.  All that's left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a couple of Hawaiian shirts and my moustache comb. Tom Selleck is Magnum, P.I. For Selleck it's clearly a career-defining role, and for the rest of the world it's a cultural touchpoint for Ferraris, aloha shirts and exceptional moustaches. In this short but informative interview with…

5 of the best microbrands that even watch snobs can get behind

'Microbrand' is one of those contentious watch words — a catch-all term encompassing smaller watch brands typically making, marketing and selling watches outside of the traditional industry pathways. It's a section of the industry that has come a long way in a little time, and these five players are some of the most interesting players in the space right now … Laventure Founded in 2017 by watch industry designer Clément Gaud, Laventure has thus far released two models, the Marine and the Sous-Marine, the latter in both steel and bronze. While the brand has occasionally been criticised for what are…

Ever seen this before? The mysterious Rolex Submariner Date ref. 116659 SABR

Editor's note: Most of Rolex's new releases are shown to the press and make it into the catalogue. Sometimes, though, they don't. The gem-set Rolex Submariner Date ref. 116659 SABR is an example of one that didn't. And we were pretty lucky to get to see it at last year's Baselworld …  There was a lot of mystery surrounding this piece when it was pulled out of a large green box during our appointment with Rolex at Baselworld. And, to be honest, we were too caught up in the moment, too dazzled by the gemstones, to take it all in…

The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more

Editor's note: If you missed instalments one and two of our glossary, you might want to quickly check them out, because now we're in part three, we're starting to get a little more technical. We're moving beyond the basic parts and starting to explore how they operate together. Tick tock. Escapement The escapement is a collection of components responsible for the time-keeping accuracy in a watch. These components work together to act as the timekeeping (or regulating) organ of the watch. Every watch needs an escapement to distribute the impulse from the power source (whatever it may be) to the…

Watch that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law a Bremont on live TV

Editor's note: Everyone loves a good celebrity watch-spotting moment – and they don't come much better than that time Jimmy Fallon gave his father-in-law one of the coolest watches of modern times, the Bremont MBI. You've probably seen it before, but it's definitely worth another look …  Contrary to what you might expect, the greatest asset of English brand Bremont isn't their watches. Their greatest asset is the longstanding and extremely positive relationship with military pilots the world over. And nowhere is this better demonstrated than with the Bremont Martin-Baker MBI, available only to people who have survived a live…

Regrets, I've had a few – how to handle watch buying remorse

Editor's note: In an ideal world, buying an expensive watch is a stress-free and seamless affair. But as Cam discovered, that's not always the case …  I think we've all found ourselves in a similar situation to this before: you wake up, the morning after a big night out and all is seemingly well. At least until the night's events start trickling back into your mind's eye, and an odd sensation begins to stir deep down inside, giving you the feeling that things are not quite as they should be. You then roll over and notice something lying there next…

5 of the best GMT watches that even platinum frequent flying snobs will approve of

In this series of articles, we pick five interesting, less-often reported watches that tick a lot of boxes that seasoned watch collectors frequently look to fill. To make this a worthwhile exercise, we're defining affordable as anything below $5000 AUD. Do you ever get the feeling the entry-level price point is dominated by bland dress watches and a slew of decent, but identikit divers? Sure, we don't expect to see perpetual calendars or tourbillons slumming it down here with us commoners (and if you do see a kickstarter campaign threatening to disrupt the watch industry by creating a tourbillon for…

Green, lean and not at all mean – Hublot's Classic Fusion Titanium Green

Editor's note: For all that Hublot is a name strongly associated with big, bold colours (and rightly so, might we add), they're not afraid to show their more subtle side on occasion. Take, for example, this Classic Fusion Titanium Greed – what a dial! This week we're looking at Hublot watches that aren't the Big Bang. Yep, you read that right. For all that the brand is virtually synonymous with their iconic (or is that iconoclastic?) sports watch, it turns out Hublot isn't afraid to show their softer side on occasion. You know what else Hublot has never been afraid…

The rugged charm of the Montblanc 1858 Automatic

Editor's note: Most of the attention on Montblanc's 1858 collection is dedicated to their fancy Geosphere model and the chronograph, which is understandable. But just quietly, there's a lot to like about the Montblanc 1858 Automatic – a sporty, simple auto with lovely dials, and well-thought-through details. Read on to find out more …  In 2016, Montblanc announced a new line, the 1858, a vintage-inspired sports collection. This year, under the keen direction of Montblanc's Head of Watches Davide Cerrato, the entire 1858 line has received a stylish and oh-so-smart update. There are more complex versions, but the entry-level piece is…

Fancy a date with a handsome German? Try the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date

Editor's note: The combination of confidence, sobriety and extreme charm is — if we're completely frank — a winning one. And it's a combination the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date has in spades. Read on for Sandra's review of this classic daily wearer …    While the rules about how a man should dress for formal occasions are more relaxed than in the past, they are still governed by the principles of timelessness: elegance, discretion, refinement and restraint. Self-expression and individuality are all very well, but wearing a chunky, sporty watch with a dinner suit (or even a formal…

Not your granddad's Patek – the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A

Editor's note: One of the funny quirks of the English language is that there's no word that rhymes with orange. Certainly, Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A doesn't, but don't let that fool you, because this (very) fine fellow, with its orange details and neon strap option, is as orange as the sunset over Miami …  One of the more entertaining games to play at Baselworld 2018 is: "Who is Brand X after with this watch?" In some cases the answer can be as clear as mud, but in the case of the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph it's a bit…

5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019

Editor's note: There's word on the street that Jaeger-LeCoultre's 2019 collection is in town. And that word is from us, because we're throwing a party to celebrate the fact, tonight. If you're a fan of enamel or the Master Ultra Thin collection, you should be all over these watches. Watch below and you'll see why …   The talk of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth at SIHH was the incredible (and incredibly well-sized) Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, but that rare bird was in hot demand, so we didn't manage any quality one-on-one time with it. But that's OK really, as…

Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman

Editor's note: Our resident Canadian correspondent Justin is a man of some fairly intense and deeply held passions — at least when it comes to watches. His proclivities for bold straps and quirky indies are immediately apparent if you take even a quick glance at his Instagram. His love for the already iconic (and already discontinued) Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman is a little less top-line, but it's there — all you need to do is scratch the surface. And that's just what Justin did last year when he had a prolonged date with the watch … You all know the feeling.…

The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more

Editor's note: Last week we kicked off our series on the ultimate watch glossary — well, now it's back and slightly more complex. Read on if you want to know what really makes your watch tick … Mechanical watch, manual or automatic There are two types of mechanical watch, and the difference comes down to how the watch is wound. A manual watch must be wound by way of the crown, typically once a day, but it depends on power reserve (more on that shortly). This action winds the mainspring around the barrel arbour (the central post in the middle…

3 of the best Bulgari watches of 2019 

Editor's note: There's something in the fine, crisp Swiss water at chez Bulgari. Their watch design of late has been impressive, to say the least. And, as a recap, here's a look at the hero releases from this year's Baselworld. Enjoy the thinness. Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women's side, there's a new golden serpent to adore.  The hero of Bulgari's set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both the style…

Looking back at Rado's best heritage watches

Editor's note: Over the last few years, Rado — traditionally the masters of design-y ceramic timepieces — have stepped their heritage game WAY up. Their Captain Cook line, in particular, is a real gem, and a solid value prop. Here's our take on Rado's best heritage watches.  Rado isn't a brand that you typically think of when you think about 'heritage'. On the one hand this makes perfect sense, as the brand is best known for their decidedly modern materials and avant-garde designs. But on the other, Rado has been around for a while (since 1917), and has a host…

The detailed design of A. Lange & Söhne

Editor's note: Some of my favourite stories on Time+Tide are the series we wrote on the design of A. Lange & Söhne's watches. This first instalment, written by Sandra Lane, explores the German brand's overall design methodology and approach. Well worth another read.  "Money likes silence." Several years ago, a Russian collector by the name of Nikolai (he prefers not to publish his surname) was telling me why he's so keen on A. Lange & Söhne, and I was struck by that part of his reply. While he meant it to sum up the 'stealth' appeal of Lange's designs (discreet…

On the road with Longines' smart traveller, the V.H.P. GMT

Editor's note: It's not too often you see something genuinely 'new' in the watch space — with all the 'novelties' on offer. The Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, however, is new. The tech inside is user-friendly, smart, and makes for a better watch. And that's something we can get behind.  A few weeks ago I travelled to Rome to check out the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, a GMT unlike any other. And in between the first-look video, horse racing and spectacular rooftop launches, we thought we'd do some sightseeing around Rome and put the V.H.P. GMT through…

The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar is still an incredibly hot watch

Editor's note: When it was first released back in 2015 (was it four years ago already?!), the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar was hot. And while there's been a lot of watches (including many more Portugiesers), the years have not diminished the appeal of this big business watch.  The story in a second The headline act in IWC's 2015 line-up is the Portugieser Annual Calendar, an assured new take on an old favourite. The big question Will people want a watch that's more than a complete calendar, but not quite a perpetual? IWC have declared 2015 to be the year of…

The Omega Seamaster Railmaster  – an everyday chameleon

Editor's note: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster is an interesting release from Omega – similar in overall form to the Aqua Terra, but with a decidedly neo-vintage flavour. This watch makes a great daily, with a more youthful vibe. The Omega Seamaster Railmaster was one of the surprise hits of last year's Basel fair. So it's vaguely appropriate that as we're busy speculating what we'll see Omega release at Baselworld 2018, we look back on one of their hottest from last season. Not that we realised it at the time – the regular production Seamaster Railmaster was more of a slow…

Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket

Editor's note: Nomos is a habitual entrant on our 'best in budget' lists, and there's a very good reason for that. Strong looks, great style and serious credibility all add up to a package that punches hard for its price tag. Case in point, the Nomos Club Campus, which was released at Baselworld a few seasons ago …  If you're an avid follower of our Instagram stories, you might have overheard my candid thoughts on the new entry-level Nomos as we captured some scenic pre-Basel scene-setting. As Andrew live-panned a view of the Rhine, I could be heard distinctly in…

Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph

Editor's note: To paraphrase Sandra's excellent review of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph — the brand nailed it. Case, movement, dial and all the details are what we want from a heritage style piece in 2019. Pro – it's expected to be hitting the market quite soon. Con – it's limited to 100 pieces globally.  When Montblanc gave us a privileged preview of its new Heritage collection in Miami back in October, our gut told us that they had a winner in the salmon-dialled Heritage Pulsograph. Forward three months to SIHH: 36 exhibiting brands and I-don't-know-how-many-hundreds of new watches later, our…

5 of the best quartz watches that watch snobs approve of

A lot of the discussion about what makes a watch good value is centred on the mechanics responsible for keeping the time. When those glorious mechanics are removed in favour of a soulless electronic module, many enthusiasts switch off. But this needn't be the end of the discussion. Quartz watches, for all their sins and the brazen mutiny of the '70s, have a lot of good things going for them. Firstly, they are more accurate. That's a pretty short discussion, but it's true. Even if a traditional mechanical watch were able to be so finely tuned that it could keep…

4 of the best GMT watches from 2018

Editor's note: There's something about GMTs. Even if you don't travel or do business in far-flung parts of the world, there's a romance and sense of adventure to these timepieces. And 2018 was a particularly strong year for the complication, with a brace of strong offerings. So here's that time Andy and I made awkward puns and chatted about the best GMT watches of Basel 2018. Oh, and if you're really observant, you might notice we mention five watches at the start of the video, but only show four. That's because we had to hold off on talking about this…

Remember when that guy bought a broken Rolex-made Panerai at a car boot sale for £10?

Editor's pick: Whenever I pop into an op shop (or thrift store for our American readers), I always make sure to have a look at the watches, JUST IN CASE. Because you never know, you might just have the level of luck of this guy who, in 2016, picked up a Panerai that turned out to be worth a shade more than the 10 pound asking price …  It's happened again. First, this guy found an original LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm in a thrift store. And now, the son of a Cheshire man who bought a Rolex-made Panerai issued to the…

The ultimate watch glossary – beginner's edition, from bezels to bracelets

Editor's note: Watches can be intimidatingly confusing things, full of obscure parts with funny names. In this first part of our ongoing series 'The ultimate watch glossary', we start things off nice and slow with some entry-level terms. Even if you're all over these terms, this page is perfect for sharing with your watch-curious buddies … Case The case is the exterior of the watch. It can be made from a range of high-tech or precious materials, but steel is most common. Typically, measurements are provided as the diameter, excluding the crown. Bezel The bezel is the ring that surrounds…

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing

In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro's managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and tested method of seeing what sort of actual stock is in stores across the world, and the picture is grim … I have searched the cabinets of authorised dealers in Dubai, central London, Edinburgh, Heathrow and Gatwick Airports, Las Vegas, New York, Los Angeles and…

Industrial aesthetics – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold

Editor's note: In the last few years, two-tone watches have moved from fringe to mainstream trend status. And while it's clear that yellow gold has been largely replaced with pink, the other material de rigueur is typically steel. Which is why we're still so into the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold – the perfect meeting of opulence and function.  One of the most impressive collections we saw at SIHH 2017 was that of Girard-Perregaux, dominated by the sporty, '70s-inspired Laureato collection. And while most of the Laureatos walked a pretty established product path — a top-end tourbillon, 42 and 38mm…

11 of the best Grand Seikos – and why they matter

Editor's note: From dive to dress and some gorgeous dials in between. Cam has a look at 11 of the best Grand Seiko watches of recent times … Just 10 years ago, buying a Grand Seiko meant either having to buy a plane ticket to Japan, convincing a relative/friend/acquaintance/that-guy-you-met-one-time to buy a ticket to Japan, or navigating your way around Japanese online retailers – searching every page for an image of your heart's desire and then using Google translate to confirm that they even offered international shipping. You see, despite having a history that stretches back to 1960, it wasn't…

4 winter warmer watches for less than $6K

Editor's note: Things certainly got cold fast in Melbourne, and we're busy working out ways to stay warm. And that includes our wrists …  The northern parts of the world might be enjoying long, lazy afternoons of relaxation and summer fun, but down here in Australia things have taken a turn for the cooler. So, to help take the chill off, we've found four winter warmer timepieces to hold you over until the summer months. Bulgari Octo Roma With its dark caramel dial and rich chestnut strap, Bulgari's brand new Octo Roma is the watchmaking equivalent of a well-worn Chesterfield,…

Blue heaven is the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic

Editor's note: Few brands have the way with ceramic that Hublot has. The fusion-focused brand has pumped so much colour into the ultra-hard material that it's hard to believe. Take the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic for example …  When it was announced last year, I thought Hublot's Orlinski case was one of the freshest, coolest new shapes I'd seen in quite some time. And then they went and released it in blue ceramic and I quietly lost my mind. But before we dive into the blue, let's have a quick refresher on just what — or who —…

Diving for squares – the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Editor's note: For years, Bell & Ross has stuck safely to the skies. Then, in 2017, they came for the oceans. And we could not be happier with the switch up. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is a smooth evolution of the brand's famous form …  The story in a second: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver transitions smoothly from the sky to the sea. In the time I spent with the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver I came to think of it as an armoured car. Not the conspicuously bulked-up and blinged-out vehicle beloved by…

What it's like to wear a crown on your wrist – 24 months with a Rolex Datejust

Editor's note: Bruce has written a few great Rolex reviews for us – but this one is a bit special. It takes place not over a few days or weeks, but years. It's one of our favourite T+T stories, and definitely deserves a re-read. So, settle in for our long-term Rolex Datejust review …  One fateful day after deciding it was finally time to get a Rolex Submariner, I walked into my local Rolex boutique and proceeded to try on the "wrong" watch. The only reason I even agreed to try on the Datejust was because I'd convinced myself it was the…

The Legend … the Longines Legend Diver, that is

Editor's note: To celebrate the fact that the first Australian allocation of the Longines Legend Diver black goes on sale at 8am tomorrow, we're looking back at OG Legend Diver. Black or steel, Milanese or sailcloth. No matter how you slice it, it's a winner of a watch. Longines was making stellar heritage reissues well before it was cool. Case in point is the stylish '60s-inspired Legend Diver, first released way back in 2007. And while it's become de rigueur for most major brands to release one or two retro pieces a year, the Longines Legend Diver (LLD) pioneered the reissue…

Mid-century modern – Tissot's excellent Heritage Petite Seconde

Editor's note: The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde isn't a new watch but, oh boy, it's still a good-looking piece of wristwear. The simple case, numerals, and dial texture all add up to an entirely pleasing watch …  The story in a second: Tissot's latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That's not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that's reflected in…

Explaining just how Cartier's incredible Révélation d'une Panthère works

Editor's note: This year at SIHH we were treated to another look at the stunning Cartier Révélation d'une Panthère, and the 2019 version was helpfully explained to us thus: "Last year it had 900 gold beads forming the face. This year it is 650 diamonds. We had to redevelop and re-engineer everything. Diamonds and gold are not the same materials: one is heavier and the diamond is a bit thicker, which meant changing the size of the cavities in the panther head. It was a good challenge for us. The diamonds are brilliant shaped and they can move in three…

Dial for days – the Grand Seiko SBGH267

Editor's note: At this point, saying Grand Seiko do exceptional dials is a bit of a cliché, but c'mon – look at this thing. It's flat out incredible – delicate, detailed and still somehow fun. This is what Grand Seiko excel at, and this is why people love them … The foundation upon which modern Grand Seiko is built is the calibre 9S, first unveiled 20 years ago. Basel 2018 sees the Japanese brand pay tribute to this important movement with this new Grand Seiko model, the SBGH267 Vital statistics Grand Seiko's dial and case finishes are rightly lauded for…

A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd

Editor's note: Since we originally ran this story back in 2017, the star of @KingNerd has grown ever brighter – he's Revolution's in-house engraver, and works on all sorts of dopeness. Definitely worth a second look. Real nerd @KingNerd might not be a real monarch, but he is royalty in the world of fine engraving. Definitely worth a follow if you're into acanthus leaves and long guns. Oh, and watches. Tell me about yourself: My name is actually John, after my father and his father and so on, but friends started calling me Johnny and it's kind of stuck! I'm a…

Simply the best? The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel

Editor's note: no bells, no whistles. Everything you need and nothing you don't. It's the one and only Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel … Forget the fuss about the Sea-Dweller and the palaver over the Sky-Dweller, the real Rolex of 2017 is the Datejust 41 in steel. On the surface, the reasons might not be immediately obvious. After all, the Datejust 41 isn't new (it was released last year in yellow and Everose Rolesor versions), and its looks are almost the very definition of classic. But despite this — or because of it — we're confident in predicting that the…

The Tudor Pelagos LHD is excellent, but we want more

Editor's note: The last time the Tudor Pelagos received a significant line extension was the LHD (left hand drive), which debuted in 2016. It's a great watch — and arguably the 'hottest' of the Pelagos variants. But something we can all agree on is that it's a line that's well due for some more attention. Tudor, don't let us down at Baselworld 2020 …  Once again, Tudor has surprised and tempted us with a brand new release just before Christmas – the Tudor Pelagos LHD. On the whole it's the same Pelagos we know and love, with just a few tweaks…

Here's the proof you can easily wear a 37mm watch

Editor's note: Size is one of the prevailing issues in watchland. Too big? Too small? It's one of those ongoing debates that rages on (and on and on and on). A watch that clocks in at 37mm would typically be seen on the smaller size of this spectrum — so much so that many would discount it on dimensions alone. The Rado Heritage Captain Cook Tradition Mark II proves that you'd be a fool to judge a watch too small on specs alone …  Last year, Rado had a breakthrough, heritage-inspired hit with their Captain Cook, a slightly quirky 37mm…

6 of the best vintage watch ads, according to @adpatina

Editor's note: One of the more interesting Instagram accounts I've followed in recent times is @adpatina, dedicated to sourcing (and selling) vintage watch ads. Clearly, I am not alone, as Ad Patina has graduated from Instagram and is now a fully fledged site and store. So, if you ever wanted to know what makes a good watch ad, or just want one to hang on the wall, read on …  So, how did you get into vintage watch ads? Ah, it all started when I was a teenager in the mid '90s … I remember taping Rolex ads to my…

Two of the sweetest tones – the Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose

Editor's note: Root beer is a peculiarly American drink, sweet and vaguely medicinal – not at all unappealing but an acquired taste. Can the same be said for the Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose? Perhaps, but it's a particular flavour of Rolex that Andrew fell hard for at Basel 2018, and 12 months on, the love is still going strong … In the wee hours of this morning, as I was recording this voice-over, it occurred to me that the only watch from the new Rolex GMT-Master II collection currently not receiving a massive amount of coverage at Basel…

Rainbow bright! The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

Editor's note: Sapphire watches, while technically amazing, sometimes run the risk of being a little — um — dull. Mostly because there's nothing to really look at (what with the clear case and all). That's certainly not a problem with the (impressively named) Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow which delivers some double action thanks to the colourful bezel and complex movement. There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I've got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It's the Big Bang…

The incredible, complex symmetry of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche

Editor's note: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche manages to combine a complex, exceptionally slim movement, from one of the best movement makers in the business, with a complex dial design realised in a vivid, bright blue that's honestly one of the best in the business. This one is a real stunner.  There's a running joke in the Time+Tide office about my proclivity for "beautiful blue" dials – I once managed to say it a few too many times in a short video review and, well, it sort of stuck. But in the case of this new version…

Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1

Editor's note: Cameron is a big fan of Casio, and is the proud owner of a beautiful golden boy. So it was no surprise that he raised his hand to review the quite heavy and very cool Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1. Read on …  Anyone else ever play this game? Sitting at my desk during school, my friends and I would quickly double tap the start/stop button on our digi-stopwatches, trying our best to beat one another and see who could do it the fastest. I actually remember getting a digital watch just so I could play (and totally…

4 of the best everyday casual watches for under $10k

Editor's note: Fun fact — You don't need a whole watch roll full of watches. Sure, it's fun, but unless you're Papa Hayek, you only wear one at a time. So, in that spirit, here are some of the best everyday casual watch options, all for under $10K.  Are you under sartorial pressure in your nine to five? Feel the need to up your office attire? Well, we can't help you with suits and shoes, but wrists? We've got you covered. We've found four perfect daily wearers that will dazzle your peers, no matter how dull your PowerPoint is. Rolex Oyster…

Another look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay?

Editor's note: Time to Move saw some new dial variants of the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, with a chic black dial. And while we only saw these watches in passing, it reminded us of what an interesting, underrated and divisive (yes, all at once) watch it is. So, this is our review of the original, from back in the day … Story in a second Omega adds an extra hand, two millimetres and a whole lot of text to their Constellation-inspired Globemaster. The Globemaster was one of the breakthrough watches of 2015, and it would have been naive to think that Omega…

5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs

Not everybody can afford the big guns: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Lange & Söhne, Breguet … These brands are, for many of us, a little out of reach (unfortunately). But that doesn't mean we can't appreciate them from afar. Nor does it mean that we can't find watches within our grasp that offer enough bang for their buck to earn the approval of even the snobbiest of watch snobs (well, okay, maybe not the snobbiest). Not all of the brands on this list of the best budget watch brands look a lot like any of the watches produced…

Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now?

Editor's note: Well, if it's not the coolest, it's certainly on the shortlist. And while this green and gold LE is a particular fave of ours, any of the 9F GMT movements work well. They're effortless, and so perfectly proportioned on the wrist. Plus, the work that goes into the quartz is so gosh-darned impressive … Quartz isn't something that comes across my desk too often, so you know when it does that it's something special — and this Grand Seiko is definitely something special. There's a handful of truly exceptional, iconic quartz movements out there, and the 9F is…

Practical perfection – the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Outsize Date

Editor's note: Few brands can manage the delicate dance of design, beauty and function as deftly as A. Lange & Söhne, as their Saxonia Outsize Date, first released last year, demonstrates. Sandra tells us more … While the rules about how a man should dress for formal occasions are more relaxed than in the past, they are still governed by the principles of timelessness: elegance, discretion, refinement and restraint. Self-expression and individuality are all very well, but wearing a chunky, sporty watch with a dinner suit (or even a formal business suit) will forever remain a stylistic faux pas. And…

5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off

Editor's note: It's 2019, and along with the feeling that drone-delivered pizza is imminent, many people are also experiencing some form of existential apocalyptic angst. And rather than tell you that it's all going to be OK, we'd suggest you prepare by watching a few series of Doomsday Preppers and reading this list. We're sure you'll be fine.  Every generation or so has its own particular flavour of apocalyptic angst. From mutually assured destruction to pandemic plagues or even rogue asteroids. Nowadays, we seem to be blessed with a profusion of options for end times, some of which are looking…

This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years

Editor's note: Dress watches are one of those timepiece genres with very specific 'rules', and can be hard to nail. One watch that always manages to look elegant and on point in a dressy situation is the Cartier Tank. Like this Tank Louis Cartier we looked at a while back … It's hard to overstate the importance of Cartier's Tank. Not just in the rarefied world of watch design, but in the much broader fields of fashion and design. In a crowded scene full of pretenders, it stands out — like an enduring style icon in a room full of so-called…

Spending a month with a beaten-up Omega Seamaster 300 – a watch that wears its scars proudly

Editor's note: I've got a thing for beaten-up watches. It shows they've lived a life, and that their owners aren't thinking primarily about resale value. They're watches being worn in the spirit in which they're made. And that's a good thing.  A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a month or so. Now, unusually for me, this wasn't a PR sample or anything, but an actual real watch, that I borrowed off a mate who wanted to try one of my watches on for size. Now, I'm typically hesitant to do this, as I…

7 of the toughest watches ever made

Editor's note: There's something about possessing something whose capabilities far exceed anything you'll ever need them to do. I guess it's the thought that should Dave, mild-mannered accountant in a mid-level law firm, suddenly be called upon to disarm the bomb and save the world, we know that Dave can (at least) rely on his watch. As long as his watch is one of these … Back in days of yore (AKA 2015), we rounded up nine of the biggest, baddest, most unbreakable timepieces we could find, and created the most fierce gang of watches the world had ever seen. Much…

How to wear a watch like nobody is watching

Editor's note: There's a lot to love about Jeff Goldblum. Like pretty much everything really. And for us at least, one of his key character attributes is his ability to wear a dainty gold Cartier Tank like he doesn't give two whits for what the rest of the world thinks. Bravo. The same devil-may-care watch-wearing attitude also makes RDJ, Conor McGregor, Serena Williams and our very own Tim Cahill stand out in the watch department … There are watches we wear in our real lives and there are watches we imagine we would be brave enough to wear in our…

RECOMMENDED READING: Omega are making us thirsty with this Casamigos Planet Ocean

Most of the time we're OK living in Australia. We've got great beaches, a laidback culture and some colloquial slang that's more colourful than a hatful of rainbow bezels.  But sometimes we feel we're missing out. And today is one of those days. When we spotted this article on Uncrate about a US boutique-only Omega LE, we felt the thirst. And not just because it's a collab between Omega and their best pal Clooney's spirits company Casamigos. No, this watch, in matt black ceramic on sailcloth with teal text, has us feeling all sorts of things.  You can feel them…

The problem with bezel screws …

Editor's note: Ahh, bezel screws. Along with date windows, nothing riles up the watch-loving populace quite as much as a misaligned, exposed bezel screw. So, in that spirit, here's an opinion piece we wrote on just that topic a little while ago … "Such a shame they don't take the time to align their screws. I wouldn't buy one purely because of this." Every time we post a picture of a watch with exposed bezel screws (mostly Hublot or Bell & Ross) we get a variation of this comment. And I'm well and truly over it. While many brands use…

His 'n Hers – two takes on the smaller Panerai Luminor Due

Editor's note: Panerai has been riding the winds of change recently, and one of the tell-tale signs is the advent of smaller sizes. Now, while it's easy to pigeonhole these offerings as women's watches, Felix and Sandra discuss the matter and decide these more petite Luminor Due models look the part on lads and lasses alike.  Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it'd be a smart…

The world of watchmaking at Breguet

Editor's note: Next week, Breguet will unveil its 2019 releases to the world, and we can't wait. So, in preparation, we thought we'd have another look at Justin's piece on the fundamentals of Breguet's approach to watchmaking and watch design … With a brand so rich in history, the origins of what can only be called typical Breguet design cues date a fair ways back into the archives. Contrary to the case of countless other brands on the market, the components that make up Breguet's core design mantra could hardly be accused of being derivative, and each element has its…

How to impress a woman with your watch in 5 easy steps

Editor's note: This is one of the classic T+T articles that never really gets old, and with good reason. Ceri drops some truth bombs on how to impress with your wrist, should that sort of thing matter to you. Hint: it's likely not the $$$ value or the constant, not-so-subtle wrist flexes … Firstly, let's not delude ourselves: your timepiece is going to impress more men than women. That's a given. Unless, of course, it's awful. If that's the case, you'll be slaying precisely no one — and also, how did you find your way to Time+Tide? However, there are…

Two-tone done right – the Tudor Black Bay S&G

Editor's note: The last few years has seen an increasing number of two-tone releases — even several in yellow (!) gold. All of which only confirms that bi-metallic watches are back in a big way. One of the best is the Tudor Black Bay S&G. Here it is in all its steel and gold glory … Last year's release of the Black Bay S&G was something of a slow burn. In the heat of the initial announcements, all eyes were on the impressive Black Bay Chrono. As time passed, people seemed to realise what a looker the steel and gold…

When is it OK to wear a gold watch?

Editor's note: Steel is all the rage these days, with premiums for coveted models exceeding that of the comparable gold version. This fact alone is a compelling argument for gold. But it can be tricky to know when and how to wear it. After all, you may not want to rock into the office with a full gold watch, or look like your uncle. Andy breaks it down … You know who you are, and you know why you're here — and it's totally fine. You've found yourself at the inevitable crossroad that all collectors come to. You're finally in the…

One of the coolest dual times we've seen in ages – the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

Editor's note: There's no denying that dual time, or GMT watches are useful. They're also a bit of a pain if you want to change time zones on the fly. Well, the ingenious Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer takes that minor irritation out of the equation, and how!  The story in a second It's all in the bezel. One of the more interesting watches to come across my desk in recent months is this Oris ProPilot Worldtimer. Now, at first glance, you might wonder why, as it looks every inch a regular ProPilot, albeit one with a second time zone…

The ever-refreshing Rolex Pepsi, AKA the GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO

Editor's note: A little more than a year has come and gone since the new Jubilee Rolex Pepsi entered the world (and it's since been joined by Batgirl), but the chances are good that you're still waiting for yours — so how about another look at what's still one of the most desired wrist accessories in the world right now. Take it away, Andy.  You've either been sleeping or taking a break from social media to have missed the news on this one. As part of their new Baselworld 2018 releases, Rolex have released for the very first time a 'Pepsi'…

Have Montblanc Orbis Terrarum, will travel

Editor's note: Last Baselworld (2018, not 2019), I decided to mix things up a little and leave my normal bunch of plain and simple three-handers at home for something a little, um, busier. Well, a lot busier if we're honest. But trust me, all the colours and text on the dial of the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum didn't detract from its awesomeness … There's a lot of important planning that happens in the lead up to Baselworld. But perhaps the single most important question is — what watch do I wear? In previous years I've taken a handful of pieces, something I…

Cartier's Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019

Editor's note: The Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for modern times. Adaptable, versatile and restrained — but with a clear personality. It's also based on a watch that's more than 100 years old. Which really is a testament to good design. Long live the Santos!  Few watches can rival Cartier's Santos in terms of on-the-wrist recognition and sheer weight of history. The design debuted in 1904 and has remained fundamentally unchanged in form since. But while the new Santos might look familiar, quite a lot has changed. Small changes have been made to the design and ergonomics of…

LIST: 6 classic men's watches for your budget

Pitching any 'best of' list is always more effective when you have very strict parameters and are forced to think sideways to come up with creative suggestions. Being asked to come up with a list of the best classic watches for different budgets is not easy. Less so, when one considers how open to interpretation the term 'classic' is. The TAG Heuer Monaco is a 'classic', but it is no dress watch, nor does it have 'classic' styling. For that reason I've chosen three price points, and decided to pick one sports and one dress watch that fits the bill…

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche – form and function perfectly balanced

Editor's note: Much of the 'what' of a watch can be summed up in the technical, the hard numbers and facts of the spec sheet. But there's an element — an X factor — that transcends this clinical description, and transforms a watch from an object into an artwork. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche is a watch that oozes with that X factor … There's a running joke in the Time+Tide office about my proclivity for "beautiful blue" dials –I once managed to say it a few too many times in a short video review and, well, it sort…

Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Editor's note: This year, Panerai made the Submersible a line in its own right, and honestly, we're wondering what took them so long. It's a design that — as demonstrated admirably by the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic (PAM 1389) here — possesses equal parts brawn, bravura and beauty …  Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, a big, 47mm titanium beast with antimagnetic innards and an oh-so-sexy ceramic bezel. This powerful diver is a watch entirely in keeping with Panerai's core values. Fast forward to 2017 and we've got a new and improved version of this Luminor Submersible, with an updated…

Spending quality time with the Tudor Black Bay 36

Editor's note: In the intro to this wearer review of the Tudor Black Bay 36 we remark on just how busy Kristoffer Paulsen is. Well, this story is a few years old now and judging by KP's instagram and ever-more-mind-blowing folio of work, his life hasn't calmed down at all. Still, beautiful pictures of a lovely watch … Let us start off by saying that if we'd known just how busy Melbourne-based photographer Kristoffer Paulsen was when we arranged to lend him the Black Bay 36, we'd have said, "How about we raincheck this project?" Not only is Kris under…

Read the debut issue of NOW – The Watch Buying Guide online … well, now

Last year we made our foray into the inky world of print with NOW – The Watch Buying Guide. A weighty tome that, in addition to shining a light on some interesting horological tales and factoids, also lived up to its promise — putting more than 200 of the best recent watch releases into one handy, almost encyclopaedic place. It had quite the ring as a proposition: 200 watches from $200 to more than $200,000, though that part was quite accidental. Regardless, it was a happy accident for buyers frustrated by the obfuscation around pricing that we all endure from the…

Restrained elegance – the Rolex Cellini Time

Editor's note: Think Rolex, and the odds are high that you think sporty, if not straight-up steel. However, there's a lot more to the brand than Hulking, Pepsi-sipping superheroes. There's also the dressier, more delicate face of the brand. The side called Cellini, and here Andrew looks at the Rolex Cellini Time …  When the Rolex Cellini range was relaunched by Rolex in 2014 – including the Cellini Time – the General Manager of Rolex Australia, Patrick Boutellier, chose a line of poetry to announce the news: "The sleeping Prince has been awoken," he said, or words to that effect,…

This Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph is not your average Speedy

Editor's note: It's no secret that there are heaps of Speedy variants to choose from, and typically we veer towards the more classical versions. Which is why we were so surprised by this Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph. It's two-tone, with a silver dial and a green bezel. Not what we'd normally pick. But also, absolutely awesome.  If, at the start of 2016, you'd told me my favourite Omega of the year would be a two-tone Speedmaster (yellow gold, no less!) with a green bezel, I'd have enjoyed a good laugh at your expense. I like a Speedy as much as the…

In defence of the date window

Editor's note: Fancy a date? No, we're not talking Tinder or your other app of choice, we're delving into the world of the seemingly innocuous date window. Where some see a useful calendar tool, others see a symbol of all that is wrong with the world. So, on which side of the date line do you stand? We've got a surprisingly complex relationship with date windows in the Time+Tide office. And not just because we've been known to forget to set them on occasion. No, every time we review a vintage reissue, it can be assured that we'll have a host of…

10 of the best pilot's watches

Editor's note: Aviation-themed watches are one of the real fan-favourite genres, especially in Australia. And while there's a lot of big brands capitalising on their high-flying heritage, there's also some surprises in the mix. Here are our picks of 10 of the best pilot's watches.  First things first, just what is a pilot's watch? While I think most of us could instantly recognise one, there isn't an exact formula like there is when it comes to dive watches — and there's a lot more to it than simply being a watch a pilot would wear. Ultimately (since you asked), a pilot's…

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000

Throughout our recent discussions on what it is that defines value, we've explored some different ways of approaching that question. Ultimately, it's down to the wearer to decide the return on their investment, but which watches do we think are pretty darn likely to get a thumbs up from our readers across the board? So here are five top buys, broken up into different price points, with a brief explanation of why these watches made it onto the list. Please feel free to tell us where we went wrong in the comments section, and let us know which watches you'd…

5 things you need to know before you buy Rolex for the first time


Congratulations. You've decided to join one of the premier families in the watchmaking universe. That first decision to buy Rolex is seen by many as a rite of passage all watch lovers should experience at some point during their collecting career, and it's one we support wholeheartedly. Since the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking began in the mid 1980s, Rolex has been ever-present, but it was not until the last decade of uncertainty reared its ugly head did Rolex really separate itself from the pack. I have said many times, and will continue to say, that Rolex is no longer a watch…

9 reasons why '90s watchmaking matters today

Editor's note: Aaaah, the '90s. That era of Hypercolour and fleece that seems, somehow, to be en vogue once more. It's also an era that embodies a strange juxtaposition in watchmaking. On the one hand, it's seen as a time that style forgot, while simultaneously playing host to some very significant horological innovations … Sitting between the now nostalgia-laden '80s and the innovation explosion of the 2000s, the 1990s is seen as something of a watchmaking wasteland; a bold (and brash) period that's currently out of fashion, but not far enough away to be viewed through the rose-tinted glasses of…

LIST: 6 milestone watches for milestone birthdays

Watches are fantastic birthday presents. They couldn't really be any more fitting: A gift that tracks the passing of time to commemorate the time past. There is a poetic symmetry to it, and it's no surprise that a huge amount of watches – especially those deemed 'fashion' watches – are purchased as gifts year on year. With that in mind, we've decided to put together a list of great milestone watches to buy someone as they reach special milestones in their life. Milestone 1 – the 21st Birthday watch You're just starting out. Maybe your parents want to get you something…

HOW TO: Buy your first good watch

Stepping into a luxury jewellers, pockets full of the hard-earned cash you're planning to drop on your first proper timepiece, can be a daunting prospect. In fact, assuming you haven't just stumbled into a vast fortune and you're buying a luxury watch simply because you assume it's the done thing, there is no doubt your first foray into watch appreciation will be something of an emotional rollercoaster. Aside from the pretty much blanket discomfort most people feel when spending large amounts of money on anything, feelings such as doubt, fear, and (truthfully) guilt at making what seems like such an…

Why are Swiss watches considered the best?

This is something we get asked a lot. And not just by newcomers to the industry. To some minds, it instantly sticks out like a sore thumb that the Swiss products are regarded as sacrosanct and that the wares of all other nations should fall in line behind the masters. But to others, it just seems like the natural order of things. So engrained it is in their minds that they never feel the need to question it. Swiss means quality. Simple. How could the truth possibly be any more complicated than that? Well, surprise, surprise, it is. The short…

Is the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT "Flash Setting" the perfect travel watch?

Editor's note: Typically watch snobs (us included) love to shun quartz-powered watches, but when it's as clever (but not smart in the smartwatch sense) as this Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT review shows, it's hard not to love.  The story in a second: A rare case of quartz having legit enthusiast appeal, albeit in a clever, and very novel, fashion. Say "it's quartz" and countless watch nerds cringe; however, there have been some exceptions to the rule over the years. Of course, Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibres get a pass on account of the brand's epic design and finishing, as well…

So hot it hurts, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST

Editor's note: It's not new, but it's oh-so-hot and nigh on impossible to get. Read on for our review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST — and weep … When the watchfam get together, it's only a matter of time before the hot topic of grail watches rears its curious head. It's no surprise, either, that for many collectors, their ultimate goal is usually found at the higher end of the watchmaking spectrum. Perhaps a Patek Philippe or something of the Vacheron variety? Or maybe the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Brought to life by Gérald Genta, when…

RECOMMENDED READING: Have you ever seen a digital Monaco before? Meet the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine

One of the things I really like about this whole watch thing is that I can still be surprised. And when I spotted this post from the truly excellent Calibre 11, one of the leading resources for all things TAG Heuer and Heuer.   Now, I'm not claiming that I'm all over the Monaco — after all, the model turns 50 this year, and there's been quite a bit of variation. But I did not expect to see a digital Monaco. Except then I did. This watch, with the very Swiss name of the Monaco Sixty Nine (in reference to the 1969…

They don't come much brighter than the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic

Editor's note: In the watch world we like to talk about trends. But the trends we're talking about are pretty macro — after all, we're talking a five-year production cycle, not five weeks. Fast fashion, watches are not. Having said that, one of the more prevalent trends is colour. Big, bold watches that stand out on the wrist. Hublot's Big Bang Red Magic is one of the brightest stars (literally and figuratively) of recent times … "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." I'm fairly sure Arthur C. Clarke didn't have Hublot — or even watches — in mind…

We answer the dreaded "if you could only have one watch" question …

Editor's note: Full disclosure, this is 100 per cent hypothetical — no watch collections were harmed in the making of this list. Having said that, it's a very fun hypothetical. Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It's clearly hypothetical and I'm pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it's a perennial watch party favourite, and can be pretty fun. It's also a useful challenge for distilling just what it is you like about watches – it's like mindfulness for watch…

Is it the GOAT steel sports model? Another look at the Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN

Editor's note: Steel Daytonas have always been hard watches to get your hands on, and the latest Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN is no exception. And aside from the whole hype/status thing, it's easy to see why. First released in 2016, it just looks the business. In case you've been living under a Rolex-shaped rock for the last few years, here's our review of what might still be the hottest sports Rolex around … The story in a second The latest and greatest steel Daytona is here, and everyone loves it. The only problem? Getting your hands on it. It's hard to…

Longines knock it out of the park with the Heritage Military

Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that's down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that's not to say that…

Bright plus bold makes the TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition a very fun option

Editor's note: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition could very easily have been an over-the-top affair, but somehow, this big squarer watch with go-faster stripes manages to be much like its most famous wearer: cool.  The story in a second: Two stripes are all it takes to amp up the legacy and motorsports heritage of the Monaco. I'm willing to put the success of the Monaco down to two things: the Steve McQueen link, and the square shape. I'm sure there are numerous other factors, like the Calibre 11, at play. But really, it's the fact that this watch…

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)

Editor's note: We originally ran Andy's interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look.  John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and a certifiable watchaholic. In his spare time, he runs the sales organisation for a small software company in Los Angeles, meaning he travels all around the US, meeting with customers and seeing places in the country that few would ever (voluntarily) go. How do you…

9 things you need to know before buying an Omega Constellation

Editor's note: This guest post, from noted vintage watch dealer Derek Dier of WatchesToBuy, was written a few years ago now, but the advice is timeless, even if the prices for Omega Constellations are only going up. So, if you're in the market for one of these old school beauties, make sure you read this first …  The Omega Constellation is so easily wearable. It's one of those vintage watches almost every collector seeks at some point in their perpetual search for another piece to add to their collection. First appearing in 1952, the Constellation was designed to be Omega's…

5 of the best American watches

Editor's note: The other week news dropped about Timex's lastest line, which is significantly made in America. Which got us to thinking about some other watches born in the USA. So we thought it was high time to have another look at this list … It might surprise you to know that in the first half of the last century, America was regarded as the force to be reckoned with when it came to watches — especially modern, efficient and mass-produced watches. But now, with great legacy brands like Waltham and Illinois consigned to the scrapheap of history, while others,…

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 in blue, grey and grape

Editor's note: You don't always need bells and whistles to make something truly exceptional. Sometimes less is more. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is a case in point. Here we look at the colourful series that was released a few years ago. And even though they're not the latest, they're still among the greatest.  The story in a second: This could well be the only watch you'll ever need. There's a concept in the world of watch enthusiasts that's referred to as 'only one watch'. For the majority of the population, this concept is better known as 'normality'. But if…

This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch

Editor's note: It's slender, but it weighs a lot. It's gold, but it doesn't look like it. I just can't get the Bulgari Octo Finissimo in rose gold out of my head. And that's even factoring in the epic new black ceramic version we saw at Basel. Seriously, will someone spot me $60K? The story in a second: Bulgari's latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your day off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it's Bulgari's darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now,…

Heritage case, awesome dials and unique movement – Grand Seiko SBGA373 and SBGA375

Editor's note: It's easy to get caught up in the hype around Grand Seiko dials (and these two beauties still pack a punch in that category), but the unique Spring Drive movement and 44GS-style case are just as noteworthy – as is the wearable size … In addition to the scene-stealing 9S 20th anniversary pieces, Grand Seiko have announced two new Spring Drive models at Baselworld 2018. Reference SBGA373 with a champagne dial, and SBGA375 in rich blue. Vital statistics With its inexorably smooth sweeping seconds hand, there's something hypnotic about Grand Seiko's Spring Drive technology, powered and regulated by…

Looking for a great all-rounder that won't break the bank? How about the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar?

Editor's note: For whatever reason, I'm on a bit of a back-to-basics kick at the moment. I mean, high complications and high price tags are all well and good, but sometimes you crave the simpler things in life. And I guess for me, right now, the simpler things are watches. Only hang on — plot twist — turns out this watch here isn't quite so simple: there's an annual calendar in the mix, which has been realised in a refreshingly unfussy way. Read on for our review of the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar.  There are few things I love…

5 of the greatest watch moments on Antiques Roadshow (and if you don't tear up on the last one, there's something wrong with you)

Editor's note: If we're being completely honest, there's one clear hero on this list. And it's the old guy and his Rolex at the end. So if you're time-poor, scroll on down to the bottom and have a look. Yes, even if you've seen it before. It gets better every time. Bless you, Antiques Roadshow.  I have a not-so-secret love in my heart for Antiques Roadshow — specifically the UK version, but the US version is pretty good, too. If you're not familiar with the concept, it's a show where random members of the public show up and have their junk/priceless…

5 solid microbrand watches for less than $500

Editor's note: A good, interesting watch isn't determined by the name on the dial or the number on the price tag. This piece from Cameron Wong (originally posted last year) proves the point. Five solid, wallet-friendly choices with personality — and usually — a real person behind them. What's not to love about microbrand watches? What I love about the microbrand watch companies is that they're run by guys and gals like you and me. The kind of people that appreciate watches, and find excitement in a unique dial or case design while getting a buzz out of a new…

The Sinn 104 St Sa I W – a super-tough daily wearer

Editor's note: Sinn is well known for their bomb-proof tool watches, but can they do something a little more light and airy? In his review from a while back, Cam argues that yes, yes they can. And that watch is called the Sinn 104 St Sa I W. Famous for their formidable and over-engineered designs — which range from technically advanced mission timers to hardcore divers made of submarine steel — Sinn are arguably the most renowned tool watch manufacturer in the industry. However, the German company also hosts a suite of dressier pieces that are better suited to a boardroom than…

5 of the best GMTs for under $5000

Editor's note: Travel is the unofficial national sport of Australians, which makes sense given our geographic remoteness. So we thought we'd do our bit by having another look at this list of best in budget GMTs, all in the very achievable $5000 or less price point.  One of the most useful everyday complications is the GMT or dual time zone. If you travel a lot or do business internationally it's certainly a lot easier to check your GMT than to fiddle with your phone, trying to find the world clock app. Given the usefulness of this complication to the jet…

Is the Tudor Black Bay GMT the perfect travel watch?

Editor's note: The other week I met up with a globetrotting friend from the internet (it happens more often than you might suspect), and on his wrist was the Tudor Black Bay GMT. It looked great, and more than that, old mate actually wore it travelling (as opposed to his vintage Rolex GMT), because it could: (a) handle the rigours of the road, and (b) he wasn't constantly paranoid about scratching it. And really, isn't the best travel watch the one you actually travel with? Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original…

What separates fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tag)?

Editor's note: One of the hoary old sayings of watch collecting is, "Buy the best example you can afford." And, for all its worn, chestnut-y appeal, the statement still rings true. Sure, saving a bit of cash for what is essentially the same thing might seem tempting, but in the long run, quality wins out. Here's Justin's excellent piece from last year on what you get for your money at various price points … It's a question many of us in the industry get on a regular basis: 'What makes one watch worth $1000 and another worth more than $100,000?'…

Pure as the driven snow, the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake

Editor's note: It's one of the most well-loved Japanese watches out there, and a legend in its own right. Only question — what's cooler, the movement or the dial? You decide. Read on for our review of the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake.  Grand Seiko's famous 'Snowflake' has been with us for quite some time now (it was first released, as the SBGA011, in 2010), and it's quickly earned a reputation as an exemplary everyday watch that manages to combine functionality and beauty in equal measure. Smartly, Seiko knew enough to leave one of the cores of the Grand Seiko collection…

Smart money – 6 expert takes on the best value watches to buy

Editor's note: Midway through last year, Justin did an excellent wrap of 'value' pieces, asking a range of industry leaders for their (very subjective) takes on the best value pieces RN. Nearly 12 months on, do you think these picks still hold up? And I wonder what the 2019 version would include … Anyone with an eye on horological news has seen their fair share of "Value Propositions" and other notes and recommendations about watches delivering varying shades of bang for your buck. Hell, we know we've made our own recommendations as we've seen fit over the years. That said,…

See the rainbow, taste the rainbow – Hublot style

Editor's note: Rainbow bezelled watches are certainly enjoying their time in the sun at the moment – for years they've been seen as a women's watch, or a left-field, quirky guys choice. But these days they're increasingly accepted as a "serious" (in 10-foot tall air quotes) choice. Certainly, this Hublot from a few years back manages to blend serious wth playful very well indeed … The Hublot booth at Baselworld is a busy place, a multi-level monolith that's more akin to a mini city than a trade show stand. We spent a few hours there, taking photos, shooting video and generally…

4 space watches that aren't the classic Speedmaster

Editor's note: It's a big year for space-themed watches, what with the 50th anniversary of the Moon landing. And of course that means it's a big year for Omega (who have already announced this solid gold stunner). But it's worth noting that Omega don't have a monopoly on that whole space thing. Here are some other out-of-this-world options … I've been a little spacey recently — and not just because Andrew has been reliving the glory of holding Gene Cernan's Speedmaster, and First Man is on our must-watch list. On top of that, I've recently re-watched the excellent Hidden Figures…

This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor's note: There's a risk with dress watches that they become overly simple. Boring even. That's not what's going on with the Breguet Classique 7147, which manages to balance clean design, fine detail and Breguet's storied design codes in one neat golden package … The story in a second: Breguet's updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, modern convenience and just the right amount of playfulness. The Classique 7147 is the definition of a quiet achiever. It's a simple, sturdy watch that does everything asked of it with style, and it does so with a sense of reserved assurance that only a…

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter?

Editor's note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly every watch leaving Rolex's Geneva facility has been a certified Chronometer, and from 1957 onwards, Rolex has been using the term 'Superlative' on their dials to describe that their watches don't just meet Chronometer standards, but exceed them. Design purists might bemoan the resulting text-heavy dials…

6 great Swiss mechanical watches under $1500 (from brands you've heard of)

Editor's note: There's real weight behind the phrase "Swiss Made", which is, in many ways, synonymous with quality. Oftentimes it's also synonymous with expensive. But that doesn't need to be the case, as these six watches, all of which were released in 2018, come in under $1500. Bonus, they all come from well-known, respected brands.  A Swiss watch is a near-universally recognised symbol for quality, precision and tradition. And while that's all well and good, there's another thing that fine Swiss watches tend to be synonymous with — and that's high sticker prices. And broadly speaking, that perception is true…

Big blue, the IWC Big Pilot Edition "Le Petit Prince"

Editor's note: IWC's Big Pilot is one of the most significant watches of the last 20 years. Its deceptively simple design belied the huge impact this 46mm monster had on the watch scene. But can it go dressy? Well, the IWC Big Pilot Edition "Le Petit Prince" makes a solid argument for the yay camp.  When IWC released the original Big Pilot in 2002 it captured imaginations, marking a defining moment in the early noughties trend for 'big' watches. It was a brute, with its hulking 46mm case and utilitarian aesthetics. And if the original ref. 5002 Big Pilot had been…

8 ways to let your significant other know you're about to buy a new watch …

Editor's note: This piece, originally written by Andy Green waaaaaay back in 2017, is one of our most enduring and popular stories. It's easy to see why. My favourite method is one in, one out. But it's all solid advice … The reality is that watches are luxury goods, so the 'need' to buy them rarely occurs. That means for most, they naturally fall very low (some say too low) on life's list of priorities, and most definitely do not outrank things like kids, mortgages and school fees. And unless your partner shares your passion, I'd gamble and say they…

Montblanc have their sights set on adventure with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere

Editor's note: I'm on a bit of a travel watch trip at the moment. And, to my mind, they fall into two distinct camps: high-flyers and adventurers. Montblanc's 1858 Geosphere, which is a few years old now, definitely falls into the latter category. Now, it's up to you where on the roughing-it-to-luxury spectrum that adventure falls. But you know what, this watch works in both contexts …  While the automatic, chronograph and Minerva versions of the 1858 collection bear a strong resemblance to the existing 1858 watches, the Geosphere is something else entirely. It's also a watch that speaks most…

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 – black, white and utterly classic

Editor's note: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is an exceptional, nigh perfect, execution of a watch. And last year it was given two new dials, in crisp white and inky black. This is our review …  One of the real hits from Rolex's 2015 collection was the Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300), a bare bones, simple steel timepiece that was still pure Rolex. Initially offered in a range of youthful, colourful dials, this year the Oyster Perpetual family expanded to include white and black dial variants, and they are, just quietly, awesome. While the case and bracelet are unchanged, it's…

Going green never looked so good – 7 of the best green watches that prove it

Editor's note: One of the easiest ways to freshen up a watch is to change the dial colour. Few colours are fresher than green, and in 2019 that trend doesn't look like going away. Here's a list we put together last year, of seven of the most envy-instilling green dials.  Today we're following up on last week's batch of blue-dialled watches with seven of the freshest green dials on the block. Green is shaping up to be the new en vogue colour, and I suspect that if we ran this list next year, we'd easily be able to double the number…

Turns out hand-painting watch dials is hard. Here's the proof

Editor's note: Look, we never thought it was easy. This is, after all, skilled manual labour. But Andrew discovered just how difficult hand-painting a watch dial is when he visited Franck Muller in Geneva …  I'm not above admitting it. I'm more than just a bit painful when it comes to painted versus printed dials. "Is this painted or printed?" is a question I've asked countless times. Receiving countless eye-rolls, I might add. And, full disclosure, I've always assumed that the colour, paint volume and line-perfect proportions of Franck Muller dials are the latter. Printed. But when I attended the Franck…

Erika's Originals straps – hands down, some of the best on the market right now

Editor's note: I ran into the lovely Erika a few times back at Baselworld, and it was clear she was having a good time. Her watches were flying off the shelves, and she had a collab with Bell & Ross that looked great. Her elastic parachute material straps offer a superb mix of comfort, style and story. Personalities like Erika are what make the watch industry great. If you need a primer on what Erika's Originals straps are all about, here's our interview from last year … Hi Erika, how did you find yourself making watch straps? It is pure…

4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch

Editor's note: I don't know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos — recently given an all new and improved makeover — is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. Even in its more precious varieties. Don't believe me? Read on … While you can make an argument for one-watch-per-purpose (a watch for work, weekend, formal occasions, etc), I personally think that versatility is the key to a good watch. Luckily, versatility is something the…

"They're impossible to get, and guys like me ruin them." Greg Yuna on custom watches

Editor's note: It takes a special kind of swag to not only get your hands on the hottest watches on the market, but to then decide to do some aftermarket mods on them. If you've got that level of swag and lean towards diamonds, you should probably meet Greg Yuna. We chatted to him last year … Once known as 'Mr Flawless', Greg Yuna is an entrepreneur and custom jeweller to celebrities like Drake, Floyd Mayweather Jr and Meek Mill. We talk custom watches with Greg, to gain some insight into one of the more controversial parts of the watch…

10 things you've always wanted to know about Grand Seiko, but were too afraid to ask …

Editor's note: Anxious about reference numbers? Confused by Spring Drive? You're not alone. But don't worry, we've got your back. Here's a handy video guide to explain the ins and outs of Grand Seiko … I'm sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang and verbal shorthand can be confusing at best and exclusionary at worst — it can feel like a club with its very own secret language. And the hardest thing is that the language changes with every brand. Take…

That time we reviewed the Rolex Explorer II 16570 – just because

Editor's note: New steel Rolex is almost impossible to find at retail, and pricing on discontinued models is getting prohibitive for mere mortals. One model that's still a little easier to get (for now) is the Rolex Explorer II 16570 — and even that landscape is changing rapidly. In fact, prices have likely shot up by 20 – 30 per cent since Bruce reviewed it last year … Today's review of the Rolex Explorer II is a little unusual on several accounts. Most significantly it's of a watch that's been discontinued for seven years. Given this fact, Bruce (of BLNR fame)…

The perfect $20,000 watch collection, according to the T+T team …

Editor's note: There are few things I love more than a good hypothetical, and this is a doozy. The rules? $20,000 to spend ONLY on watches that you don't already own. It's a surprisingly tricky challenge and, when done right, really makes you hone down what you want in watches. Also, it's a small enough amount that it prevents any super pie-in-the-sky choices, and keeps things vaguely achievable. This is what the team came up with last year … Late last week, Dan innocently asked a question: "Hey, what watches would you get for $20k?" Let's just say it opened…

8 watches that put the great in Great Britain

Editor's note: We've been on a bit of a Bremont trip recently, and while the aviation-based brand is perhaps the UK's most well known watch brand, they're not the only one. Last year, Cameron explored some of the other options … There's a revolution afoot! And it's taking place on British shores. While the world – admittedly, us included – tends to focus a lot more on watchmaking of the continental kind, the wonderful world of modern watches mightn't be where it is today without the innovations and inventions brought to us by the British watchmaking industry. In 1755, Thomas…

This Seiko is one of the best dress watches in the game right now, and it costs less than a grand

Editor's note: I'm wearing a Cocktail Time as I write this. Steel, deep blue dial. It's a ridiculously great watch. Especially when you consider the asking price. This is why it's great … If you're 'into' watches, it's easy to fall into a perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko's colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with a RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it's…

Like blue dials? Here's 15 of the best

Editor's note: Who doesn't love blue? It's fun, it's dressy, and it's a heck of a lot less boring than black or white. So, here's that time we wrapped up 15 winners from 2018.  Over the next month or so we're going to be running a series of colour-coded stories, where we focus less on the movements and case details and more on the dials. The brighter and bolder, the better. To kick things off we've rounded up a bunch of the best new blue dials because, honestly, who doesn't love blue? From subtle to shimmering to downright electric, this…

The value proposition on this Tissot is next-level. Seriously, it's a lot of watch for the money

Editor's note: Just quietly, the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic is an incredible amount of watch for the money. Cool dial, modern bells and whistles, and a strong power reserve. And it looks good.  This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can't think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic 80 movement (more than three days of power reserve rocks) in a good-looking, well-made 300m diver, you get nice little features like the gradient dial and ceramic bezel. So much win. On…

In the market for an Omega Aqua Terra? Watch this

Editor's note: In the market for a truly excellent, everyday watch with superlative quality and solid style? How about the Omega Aqua Terra? Good choice. Not sure which one? Well, watch this video … One of the secrets of the Omega Aqua Terra's success is its versatile charm. In its dark-dialled and gold incarnations it's super dressed-up, but put it on a leather or rubber strap and it becomes a much more casual proposition. This is a watch that could pull tuxedo duty or go with board shorts (and the 150 metres of water resistance means it's safe to take…

Everose and moss – is this still the hottest Rolex Day-Date on the market?

Editor's note: On its own, a Rolex is a power move. A precious metal Rolex more so. A Day-Date? Now you're talking? The Day-Date 40 in Everose with a green dial? Winner winner.  It's no real surprise that Rolex — the world's most reputable brand — is a class act. For me this was proven when I saw the beautiful new green-dialled Day-Date 40 on the first day of this year's Baselworld fair. That class factor was cemented when I discovered the watch was available in stores on the very same day of its release. Not many brands could pull off a…

The 6 most overused words in the watch industry

Editor's note: This story is a little bit old now, but you know what, it's as relevant as ever. So, if you love watches, maybe you'll have a laugh. If you work in a watch brand marketing department, maybe you can tone down some of these well-worn chestnuts.  A large part of my job is sifting through press releases. After a while they all start reading the same, thanks to the seemingly limited vocabulary of most marketing departments. And you know what the greatest irony is? While these communications have been designed to make the watch they're talking about stand…

Daily style done right, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

Editor's note: This year's SIHH from JLC was very much a return to their core – high complications and Reversos. Don't forget, though, that last year saw the brand break out with a bold, sporty collection – the Polaris. We take another look at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic. The Polaris  is one of those truly iconic watches conceived in a golden age, not just of watchmaking but also of global exploration. This year the Polaris got the nod for the remake and revamp treatment, being offered in five new models, starting with the deceptively simple Polaris Automatic. The uncomplicated, no fuss Polaris…

IWC make that luxury yacht life look oh-so-good

Editor's note: The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph might not be the first watch that comes to mind when you think of IWC (it's not a Pilot for example), but really, maybe you should change that. Just look at Jason's snaps from our 2018 review.  The story in a second: The sportiest member of the Portugieser family is busy living its best life. IWC's Portugieser family is, large diameter aside, a fairly dressy affair. Classic style, leaf hands, all that jazz. It's the classic business watch. Except, of course, for the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a watch that is business casual at…

Midnight diver – the Longines Legend in black

Editor's note: The Longines Legend Diver got a dark makeover last year, and even though it's 12 months on, we still can't get enough of this all-black look. Can you blame us? The Longines Legend Diver Watch, a reimagined version of a diving watch from the 1960s, had a dramatic reintroduction in 2017, care of the Milanese bracelet addition — perhaps the best strap hack of the year, period — and now it's going to set pulses racing even faster with a new version in black PVD. Vital statistics Apart from the PVD, the Legend Diver remains true to the bold styling…

What's featherlight, heavyweight and striped like a tiger? The Panerai Submersible Carbotech

Editor's note: Few brands have the on-the-wrist presence of a Panerai. Pair that with the futuristic look of Carbotech and you're onto a winner. Read our review from last year to find out why we love it.  At first glance, Panerai's watches share a reassuring familiarity — large cases, large crown guards and a dial design that puts legibility front and centre. A close look at the catalogue will show that the brand born from its Italian diving heritage has quite a lot of diversity on offer, particularly when it comes to case materials. From bronze to ceramic and (most…

Here's 4 reasons why Seiko is one of the most impressive watchmakers in the world

Editor's note: My first proper manufacture visit wasn't Switzerland, but Japan. And honestly, the experience has spoiled me. The breadth and scope of Seiko's watchmaking capacity really is staggering. Read on to find out why … I've always liked Seiko. One of the first watches I ever bought was a Black Monster, followed by an ever-rotating roster of rock-solid SKX divers as well as the odd vintage piece, including an original Turtle, a 6139 'Pogue' chronograph (sadly missed) and not one but two 4006-6031 Bell-Matics (neither of which are currently running, but that's a different story). So when Seiko Australia…

JLC's Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool

Editor's note: Whether you're a wannabe operator or just in love with the stealth appeal of ceramic, this JLC is pretty much the definition of tacticool, even with the blue details.  Based on the coverage of Jaeger-LeCoultre's SIHH releases, it'd be fair to assume the brand put out nothing but dressy Reversos this year. Well, that's not true. One of the more under-the-radar releases was a handsome update to the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic. Physically and functionally, the new version is unchanged from the 2014 original. It's still the same imposing black ceramic 46mm case, paired with a technical-looking 'Trieste' calfskin strap…

Is the North Flag the forgotten Tudor?

Editor's note: When it was first released, waaaaay back in 2015, the North Flag was a big deal. So much so that the main question in our review was whether or not Tudor was planning to move beyond their heritage core. Well, history has answered that question (heritage is here to stay), but that doesn't mean that the North Flag, with its genuinely interesting design, isn't a worthy watch … The story in a second In the days before Baselworld 2015 the speculation surrounding the next big Tudor release was high. Even so, no one saw the North Flag coming.…

John Mayer just made this green and gold Daytona the next hype-piece 

Editor's note: One of the biggest takeaways from John Mayer's Daytona-fest that was his Talking Watches Part 2 was the fact that the dude managed to blow up 2016's yellow gold and green-dialled Daytona overnight. If you can get it now, get it. Here's our original review (and Jason's stunning pics) of this yellow gold stunner … Though the devastatingly cool new steel Daytona is the Rolex chronograph de jour, this year the brand also released new variations of their classic chrono in white and yellow gold. Today, we're having a look at the reference 116508, in 18 carat yellow gold with a…

So, if this Rado isn't made from metal or ceramic, just what is it made from? Ceramos

Editor's note: The Rado Thinline Ceramos — one of the brand's most interesting (materially speaking) pieces from last year — has hit Aussie shores. Time to have another look.  When it comes to materials, it's hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra-hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they've chosen to deploy Ceramos on…

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be…

Editor's note: Last year, Andy Green did what he does, and had an intense Instagram browsing session to come up with this list of five celebs who are more likely than most to rock some serious wrist hardware. Given John Mayer's recent redux of his Hodinkee Talk Watches piece, we thought the time was ripe to re-share it now … Recently I wrote a list of watch brand CEOs to follow on Instagram, which led to a series of other ideas around interesting 'lists' of collectors. Today, we're looking at a list of five celebrity watch collectors you should be following…

Is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Diver the best everyday wearer on the market right now?

Editor's note: One of the greatest watch releases of 2018 was the brand new, revamped Seamaster Professional from Omega. A compelling combination of good design, great construction and a price that is competitive to say the least. It all adds up to a watch that's hard to beat as an all day, every day contender. Here's our review from last year.  Story in a second: The much-loved diver just got a serious makeover. Omega's Seamaster Professional 300M is a true legend of the watch world, a watch that will be eternally associated with Bond – specifically Pierce Brosnan, the Bond who…

HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches

For today's review of Seiko's Shippo Enamel watches (SPB073 and SPB075 to be precise), we're doing something a little different, because, as it happens, two of the T+T team, Sandra and Justin, happen to own one of each. So, over to them on the how, the why and what they're like on the wrist … First encounters Sandra: It started with Cocktail Time – no, not the Happy Hour when you sit around enjoying fancy drinks, but Seiko's watch collection of that name. They had me at the dials – the beautiful texture, the gorgeous colours. Not to mention Seiko's…

ANNOUNCING: We are selling Seiko's latest stunning Cocktail Time, the Fuyugeshiki 'Winter Scene' SRPC97J1 

Take two parts dial, one part case, one part movement and two dashes of typical Seiko value and you have a recipe for a particularly tasty cocktail; in this case, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Fuyugeshiki' limited edition, specifically the 40.5mm SRPC97J1, and the 33.8mm SRP843J1. We are pleased to offer limited numbers of both models for sale within Australia in our shop, buy them here. Also included in the sale is a copy of NOW – THE WATCH BUYING GUIDE, Time+Tide's first publication. These limited edition watches are inspired by cocktails created by Hisashi Kishi, the head bartender at Tokyo's Star Bar,…

EDITOR'S PICK: The evolution of Chanel's in-house watchmaking

Editor's note: I've been saying for a few years now that Chanel is one to watch on the watchmaking front. They've been making watches for years of course, but in more recent times they've stepped up the intensity, offering beautiful (and beautifully executed) in-house movements. Sandra has the story … It's seven years since Chanel Horlogerie decided to start developing its own movements in-house and in the last three of those years it has launched three new calibres – or four, when counting Calibre 2.1 separately. Each is strikingly different from anything offered by other haute horlogerie brands – and…

EDITOR'S PICK: Why you shouldn't think about investment value when buying a new watch

Editor's note: One of the questions we constantly get asked is about watches as investments. And while there's no doubt that watches are being increasingly seen as a viable category for investment, In this piece originally written last year Sandra argues that it's not a path you should go down — especially with new watches. Read on.  Being in the watch writing line of work, it's no great surprise that friends and acquaintances often ask me for watch-buying advice. Call it an occupational hazard, call it a compliment that they should consider my advice worth seeking, but (unlike a doctor…

LIST: 5 watches we'd love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions

Last year, Andy and I put together a fun little speculative list on heritage reissues we'd like to see in 2018. It was a fun story, so we thought we'd revisit it — with a Basel twist. We sat down over some cold brew (coffee, not beer) and hashed out our wish list of Basel releases, and then brutally critiqued the plausibility and flaw in each other's ideas. Like I said, fun.   Tudor Green Pelagos Andy: Somewhere, someone on the interwebs had the idea (and photoshop skills) to turn the Tudor Pelagos green (one of our photos no less!). Now,…

INSIGHT: A Due double take – two perspectives on the smaller Panerai Luminor Due models

Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it'd be a smart idea to get two takes on these models, courtesy of slender-wristed Sandra and Felix (and his mighty wrists). First thoughts Sandra Lane: Shock, horror! Panerai have made a "small" watch. Some are calling it a watch for women (or – God forbid – even a 'girly' watch) but really it's not. It is simply a watch…

INSIGHT: Sylvester Stallone and his Tiffany & Co Rolex Submariner

Editor's note: Matt Hranek's now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  SYLVESTER STALLONE actor, director & screenwriter Tiffany & Co. gold Rolex Submariner reference 1680/8 This, by far, is the watch I'm most emotionally connected to. The first time I saw it, it was on the…

INSIGHT: Frank Castronovo and his IWC Mark XV

Editor's note: Matt Hranek's now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  FRANK CASTRONOVO Chef & co-owner, Frankies Spuntino Group IWC Mark XV My grandfather was an amazing guy, a working-class kid made good. He grew up in Brooklyn during the Depression. It was a tough life.…

INSIGHT: James H. Ragan and his Omega Speedmasters

Editor's note: Matt Hranek's now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  JAMES H. RAGAN former aerospace engineer, NASA Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches I didn't get to NASA until the start of the Gemini days, and watches were just one of many, many pieces I tested and procured…

EDITOR'S PICK: Why I'll always be a 'vintage watch guy'

Editor's Note: Last week I shared an opinion piece on why I'm not so into vintage watches these days, so today we're seeing what the other side of the coin looks like, courtesy of avowed vintage lover, Julian Sack, who has very few 'new' watches in his roll. Take it away, Julian! I'm a watch collector. I didn't know it when my father gave me an IWC after my graduation, but in the years and decades since, I've realised that collecting vintage watches is a part of who I am. I've come to love the stories and history that live in old…

WATCHSPOTTING: Which tennis player wears what in 2017?

Editor's note: Whether they know it or not, anyone in a highly visible profession is likely to have their wristwear critiqued by a cadre of hardcore watch geeks. Politicans, actors and athletes are all fair game. Today in a special guest post, Paxton Wong casts his ever-watchful eye over the watch choices of some of the world's best tennis players, just as the Australian Open heats up in week two. They say tennis is all in the wrist. Perhaps here is where the secret lies? Looking a little closer, players appear to be balancing the weight of the racquet in…

MY WEEKEND WITH: The Cartier Hypnose – by The Tia Fox

All this week, we've been sharing our collaboration with style influencer Melanie Liu, aka The Tia Fox, to showcase Cartier's Hypnose collection. Today, she puts on her reviewer hat (which would be painfully chic and limited edition, were it not metaphorical), to let us know exactly what she thought of the three models she tested out. Early this week she told us about the story behind the photoshoot, so make sure to watch it unfold in the full gallery below. My first impression of the three watches was… that they were stunning at first sight, which was a lovely surprise. The whole line is very beautiful and feminine. What…

EDITOR'S PICK: Dark visions – the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Black Ceramic

Editor's Note: Last time we looked at the midnight visage of the all-black Heuer-01 it was in the bustle and busyness of Baselworld. Eight months later and the watch is now starting to be seen on Australian wrists. Building off the modular platform of 2015's bold new Carrera, this model is far more sexy than stealthy. But as David Chalmers explains, the black ceramic case makes the watch even tougher. The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Black Ceramic is the first time ever that TAG Heuer has released a fully ceramic case for a watch in their men's range (they've offered a women's Formula 1 model…

IN-DEPTH: We fight over the new grey-dialled Slim d'Hermès

The story in a second With a slender profile, top-notch movement and a dial to die for, the Slim d'Hermès has a lot more going for it than just the name. Hermès might be better known for its much-coveted Birkin bags than high-end horology, but the Slim d'Hermès looks set to change all that. First unveiled in 2015, the watch has evolved this year with two new dial variants in slate grey and blue – and when we tried to assign this piece, both Ceri and Felix wanted it, and wouldn't let it go. Our first solution was to let them wrestle it out on the office floor, which would…

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Into the blue with the Montblanc 1858 Manual Small Second video review

It started with the 1858, which – in an insanely busy year for Montblanc – dropped out of the big blue sky. We were excited. We were titillated. We were a little flummoxed to be honest. Thoroughly embracing the spirit of the Manufacture Minerva that Montblanc acquired, it was almost a case of innovation overload. Almost. Because when we saw it in the metal, we better understood the play, which seemed to be: 1.Wrap Minerva into the brand story at an entry as well as elite price point. 2. Give the elegant Heritage Chronométrie range a more rugged brother to cover all…

HOW TO: Survive the 8 stages of the Sydney City2Surf

In the 46 years it's been going, the City2Surf has grown to become the world's largest fun run, taking place each August in Sydney, bang in the middle of the southern hemisphere's glorious winter. This year, around 80,000 people have entered the race, which kicks off tomorrow morning at 7:50am in the city centre before meandering 14km through the Eastern Suburbs to its final destination at Bondi Beach. All of these facts compelled you to sign up and now, with less than 24 hours to go, it's time to get in the zone. Well, we're here for you. The best…

MY WEEK WITH: The Drive de Cartier – by Chris Edwards

Warning: This watch review with a difference may contain traces of mancrush. So let's address the chiselled jaw on the elephant in the room. We envy the hero of this shoot, Mr Chris Edwards, more than just a little bit. Let us count the ways. He surfs and still dresses as sharply as anyone in the country (see these stunning photographs for perfectly fitted proof). On the business front, he co-founded a high-end tailoring business – Oscar Hunt. To make matters even more unreasonable, he was recently crowned the Australian 'Drive Man' by Cartier. But perhaps the hardest thing to stomach…

OPINION: Why I'll always be a 'vintage watch guy'

Editor's Note: The other week I wrote an opinion piece on why I'm not so into vintage watches these days. We received a tonne of feedback on it, some of you thought I'd hit the nail on the head, others thought I was off my rocker. In short, it did what a good piece of opinionated writing should do – divided our audience and started some conversations. In which case, it's only right that we present the other side of the picture. Stepping up to the plate is avowed vintage lover Julian Sack, who recently reported for us from the…

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 3rd June, 2016, winter is here

Your boy Jon Snow may have been banging on about it for some time, but winter's finally arrived here in the southern hemisphere. By mid-afternoon on Saturday, Harvey Norman's electric blanket aisle will have been decimated, so don't leave your run too late. That's the weekend taken care of, but what of the week that was? Well, this: What happened After an unveiling in January, A. Lange & Söhne has released the Saxonia Thin in two sizes: 37mm and 40mm. At just 5.9mm high, it's the slimmest piece they offer, but the big news is the RRP. At $22,000, the…

OPINION: How to buy your first baller watch – by @fakewatchbusta

Editor's Note: Any Instagram-savvy watch fan who doesn't follow @fakewatchbusta and @rolex_enforcer is either lying, in need of a tip, or perhaps they just have enough entertainment in their lives already. We fall into the camp of those that enjoy the odd bust, with a preference for the posts that can help educate (as well as eviscerate) on the telltale signs of fakery and forgery. Too-slim batons? Poorly cut out numerals? Skate ramp rehaut? Shivers of pure delight for watch geeks.  Occasionally, in amongst the (unhelpful) troll army takedowns, you get a glimpse of the impressive, detailed knowledge these guys are able…

INSIGHT: How to lose at Geneva watch auctions – a handy guide

Editor's Note: In this special guest post, Time+Tide reader Julian Sack recounts his experiences of trying to buy a watch at the recent Christie's and Phillips auctions in Geneva – and the lessons he learned along the way. Julian is a collector with many years' experience, with a penchant for the Rolex Prince and Patek Philippe. If you ever plan on buying at a big-budget auction, this is a must-read. I'd never before attended any of the big Geneva watch auctions, and I wasn't sure what to expect. My first stop after clearing customs was Christie's, to get a closer look…

EXCLUSIVE OPEN LETTER: FakeWatchBusta answers the question, is it ever OK to wear a fake watch?

I am the person behind the @fakewatchbusta account on Instagram and I was kind of shocked when I got the assignment of writing on this topic. It's like asking Superman if it's OK to bring kryptonite to the party. Anyways, I'll approach this as seriously as I can…. ARGUMENT #1 – "I wear fake watches when I travel in case I get robbed" In the words of penny stockbroker Timothy Sykes: "Rich people wear fakes as backups, especially in third world countries… but poor people don't get that." The argument here is that he might get robbed? Do you think…

OPEN LETTER: How I came to love watches, by Kris Smith

Editor's Note:  Attend enough watch brand events and you'll notice the same faces in the crowd – well-dressed people you know well enough to exchange small talk with, and share a drink, until you see each other again at the next boutique opening. This is how we met Mr Smith, Mr Kris Smith – model, Myer ambassador and watch lover. It's this last point that really matters. Because Kris isn't just there, where we so often meet, for the champagne and photo-op, he's often there for the watches. We bonded. Things escalated quickly when we noticed Kris commenting on Instagram, and tagging us…

ANNOUNCING: The Holiday Buying Guide

In December, the questions get out of control. From friends, family, Instagram followers, cab drivers, you name it. As soon as people establish that you're in watches, there are the questions; "Hey, I was thinking of getting <XXXXX> a <XXXXX> for Christmas / Hannukah / their work bonus, what else would you recommend?" We like talking about watches. In fact, it's the one thing we never tire of, which is lucky. But for expedience this year, we've packaged 12 of the very best possibilities in one place – the Holiday Buying Guide. The watches suggested vary in price point, but…

EVENT: Discover the Longines Watercolour Watch Project, live from Baselworld

Hello. My name is Sunflowerman and I was raised in Grand Rapids, Michigan. This week I am stationed in Basel, Switzerland. My work at the Baselworld fair also happens to be my passion in life; painting people, painting places and for the first time, painting watches for Longines, a watchmaker I was introduced to by my friends at Time+Tide. They will write the reviews, as normal, but rather than photographs of the watches, I am going to paint them. I'm not a complete novice when it comes to timepieces – but I have to admit, when I set foot inside the halls of…

THE XMAS LIST: Time+Tide's Naughty and Nice Watch List for 2014, starring…. YOU

'Twas the week before Christmas…. And we all know what that means for watch magazines and websites: watch buying guides, last-minute gift ideas, lists of accessories for the hard-to-buy-for watch lover and lots of scouring of shipping small print to make sure it will arrive before the big day. We've ummed and aaahed about how to commemorate our first ever Christmas and we thought we'd go to the only list that matters at this time of year, the list kept by the bearded fat man in red. Instead of give you our picks for the year, in a handy  list, we've…

Quite possibly the best prize ever – Win a Baume & Mercier Clifton and celebrate on a tropical island (COMPETITION CLOSED – WINNER ANNOUNCED SOON!)

The thing about a GMT watch, which allows you to take in multiple time zones at a glance, is that it immediately makes the mind wander to travel. And usually to places you'd rather be. For example: beaches, tropical breezes, and ultra luxury accommodation, all far away from the madding crowds… It is our absolute pleasure to announce that Time+Tide, in partnership with Baume & Mercier and boutique hotel specialists Mr & Mrs Smith is giving you the chance to win all of the above – on an island. The prize includes our favourite Baume & Mercier Clifton, the GMT, and…

BREAKING NEWS: Time+Tide Reboots the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH80

While TAG Heuer's Carrera CH80 was one of the hits of Baselworld 2014, our man David Chalmers from Calibre 11, (the world's leading source of news for TAG Heuer collectors) tells us that the model shown last week will likely change between now and when it hits the stores. This might sound unusual, but its actually par for the course. Many people forget that Baselworld is actually a trade show, where dealers come to place their orders for the year. That gives the brands the chance to make subtle changes to the designs of the watches that they show before…

WHO ARE WE?

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE WATCH INDUSTRY

We have some potentially alarming news… Despite scientific evidence to the contrary, what attaches a wearer to their watch is not, in fact, its strap or its bracelet.

It is its story.

Time+Tide is a media group of world-leading watch writers who have bonded over this shared belief. We are not reading enough old-fashioned, beautifully crafted story in the current watch media landscape, so, together, we are going to write it.
We are dedicated to unearthing the untold stories of both the well-known and yet-to-be-known brands and watches. We then share this information online, in print (glorious print) and in other surprising places, such as events and launches.

We are less about the movement of the piece than we are about what moved the designer or watchmaker to create it in the first place.

We endeavour to get as close as possible to this original inspiration, the human story behind the mechanical marvel. We are also united in our mission to bring the stylish everyday wristwatch wearer back into the frame of global watch media.
We are less about the celebrity ambassador on the billboard than we are about the entirely unfamous watch wearer on the street: this discerning individual who has chosen to wear 17th century mechanical technology in a thoroughly digital age. Why did they choose today's piece? What does it say about them? How did they come to own it in the first place?

So, a watch media platform for telling, and better still, sharing, stories about watches and wearers? You might say, "it's about time."

And, in the final instance, it is about time. "Time and tide waits for no man" is the very saying that inspired us to action. We know that the human heart is not a perpetual calendar. We also know that our so-called golden age is now and that it happens to be coinciding with yet another golden age for horology. Exciting times to say the least.

We look forward to telling watch stories and sharing wearer journeys that will inspire, educate and entertain.

Sincerely,
Time+Tide

DO FIRST GUYS FINISH LAST?

Now in its 60th year, Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms watch has become a legend. A legend that is steeped in history. It is a history with three main protagonists: Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain's CEO for three decades from 1950-1980, who was himself a passionate diver, and Captain Robert "Bob" Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, both of the French combat diving corps, who needed a watch for their military diving missions. These two poles come together to give birth to the legend. Blancpain was not part of the equation when Maloubier and Riffaud began their quest for a watch in the aftermath of…

The Future: Engineered for Women?

The 'Ari' by independent watchmaker Eva Leube. If you're a discerning woman in the luxury watch world, you're hard pressed to find a watch designed for a woman that isn't quartz, the size of a men's subdial or covered with stones. What happened? How did we come to this?  Where are the cutting edge watches for women? The luxury watch world is currently, for better or worse, a man's, man's world. Yet this wasn't always the case. Here's something you don't hear about in most brand's origin stories; wristwatches were originally designed to be worn by wealthy women. While men…