Time+Tide

Posts by Time+Tide:

22.05.2019

The problem with bezel screws …

Editor’s note: Ahh, bezel screws. Along with date windows, nothing riles up the watch-loving populace quite as much as a misaligned, exposed bezel screw. So, in that spirit, here’s an opinion piece we wrote on just that topic a little while ago … “Such a shame they don’t take the time to align their screws. I wouldn’t buy one purely because of this.” Every time we post a picture of a watch with exposed bezel screws (mostly Hublot or Bell & Ross) we get a variation of this comment. And I’m well and truly over it. While many brands use…

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12.05.2019

His ‘n Hers – two takes on the smaller Panerai Luminor Due

Editor’s note: Panerai has been riding the winds of change recently, and one of the tell-tale signs is the advent of smaller sizes. Now, while it’s easy to pigeonhole these offerings as women’s watches, Felix and Sandra discuss the matter and decide these more petite Luminor Due models look the part on lads and lasses alike.  Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it’d be a smart…

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12.05.2019

The world of watchmaking at Breguet

Editor’s note: Next week, Breguet will unveil its 2019 releases to the world, and we can’t wait. So, in preparation, we thought we’d have another look at Justin’s piece on the fundamentals of Breguet’s approach to watchmaking and watch design … With a brand so rich in history, the origins of what can only be called typical Breguet design cues date a fair ways back into the archives. Contrary to the case of countless other brands on the market, the components that make up Breguet’s core design mantra could hardly be accused of being derivative, and each element has its…

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11.05.2019

How to impress a woman with your watch in 5 easy steps

Editor’s note: This is one of the classic T+T articles that never really gets old, and with good reason. Ceri drops some truth bombs on how to impress with your wrist, should that sort of thing matter to you. Hint: it’s likely not the $$$ value or the constant, not-so-subtle wrist flexes … Firstly, let’s not delude ourselves: your timepiece is going to impress more men than women. That’s a given. Unless, of course, it’s awful. If that’s the case, you’ll be slaying precisely no one — and also, how did you find your way to Time+Tide? However, there are…

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11.05.2019

Two-tone done right – the Tudor Black Bay S&G

Editor’s note: The last few years has seen an increasing number of two-tone releases — even several in yellow (!) gold. All of which only confirms that bi-metallic watches are back in a big way. One of the best is the Tudor Black Bay S&G. Here it is in all its steel and gold glory … Last year’s release of the Black Bay S&G was something of a slow burn. In the heat of the initial announcements, all eyes were on the impressive Black Bay Chrono. As time passed, people seemed to realise what a looker the steel and gold…

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10.05.2019

When is it OK to wear a gold watch?

Editor’s note: Steel is all the rage these days, with premiums for coveted models exceeding that of the comparable gold version. This fact alone is a compelling argument for gold. But it can be tricky to know when and how to wear it. After all, you may not want to rock into the office with a full gold watch, or look like your uncle. Andy breaks it down … You know who you are, and you know why you’re here — and it’s totally fine. You’ve found yourself at the inevitable crossroad that all collectors come to. You’re finally in the…

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10.05.2019

One of the coolest dual times we’ve seen in ages – the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

Editor’s note: There’s no denying that dual time, or GMT watches are useful. They’re also a bit of a pain if you want to change time zones on the fly. Well, the ingenious Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer takes that minor irritation out of the equation, and how!  The story in a second It’s all in the bezel. One of the more interesting watches to come across my desk in recent months is this Oris ProPilot Worldtimer. Now, at first glance, you might wonder why, as it looks every inch a regular ProPilot, albeit one with a second time zone…

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09.05.2019

The ever-refreshing Rolex Pepsi, AKA the GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO

Editor’s note: A little more than a year has come and gone since the new Jubilee Rolex Pepsi entered the world (and it’s since been joined by Batgirl), but the chances are good that you’re still waiting for yours — so how about another look at what’s still one of the most desired wrist accessories in the world right now. Take it away, Andy.  You’ve either been sleeping or taking a break from social media to have missed the news on this one. As part of their new Baselworld 2018 releases, Rolex have released for the very first time a ‘Pepsi’…

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09.05.2019

Have Montblanc Orbis Terrarum, will travel

Editor’s note: Last Baselworld (2018, not 2019), I decided to mix things up a little and leave my normal bunch of plain and simple three-handers at home for something a little, um, busier. Well, a lot busier if we’re honest. But trust me, all the colours and text on the dial of the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum didn’t detract from its awesomeness … There’s a lot of important planning that happens in the lead up to Baselworld. But perhaps the single most important question is — what watch do I wear? In previous years I’ve taken a handful of pieces, something I…

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08.05.2019

Cartier’s Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019

Editor’s note: The Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for modern times. Adaptable, versatile and restrained — but with a clear personality. It’s also based on a watch that’s more than 100 years old. Which really is a testament to good design. Long live the Santos!  Few watches can rival Cartier’s Santos in terms of on-the-wrist recognition and sheer weight of history. The design debuted in 1904 and has remained fundamentally unchanged in form since. But while the new Santos might look familiar, quite a lot has changed. Small changes have been made to the design and ergonomics of…

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08.05.2019

LIST: 6 classic men’s watches for your budget

Pitching any ‘best of’ list is always more effective when you have very strict parameters and are forced to think sideways to come up with creative suggestions. Being asked to come up with a list of the best classic watches for different budgets is not easy. Less so, when one considers how open to interpretation the term ‘classic’ is. The TAG Heuer Monaco is a ‘classic’, but it is no dress watch, nor does it have ‘classic’ styling. For that reason I’ve chosen three price points, and decided to pick one sports and one dress watch that fits the bill…

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08.05.2019

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche – form and function perfectly balanced

Editor’s note: Much of the ‘what’ of a watch can be summed up in the technical, the hard numbers and facts of the spec sheet. But there’s an element — an X factor — that transcends this clinical description, and transforms a watch from an object into an artwork. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche is a watch that oozes with that X factor … There’s a running joke in the Time+Tide office about my proclivity for “beautiful blue” dials –I once managed to say it a few too many times in a short video review and, well, it sort…

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07.05.2019

Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Editor’s note: This year, Panerai made the Submersible a line in its own right, and honestly, we’re wondering what took them so long. It’s a design that — as demonstrated admirably by the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic (PAM 1389) here — possesses equal parts brawn, bravura and beauty …  Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, a big, 47mm titanium beast with antimagnetic innards and an oh-so-sexy ceramic bezel. This powerful diver is a watch entirely in keeping with Panerai’s core values. Fast forward to 2017 and we’ve got a new and improved version of this Luminor Submersible, with an updated…

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07.05.2019

Spending quality time with the Tudor Black Bay 36

Editor’s note: In the intro to this wearer review of the Tudor Black Bay 36 we remark on just how busy Kristoffer Paulsen is. Well, this story is a few years old now and judging by KP’s instagram and ever-more-mind-blowing folio of work, his life hasn’t calmed down at all. Still, beautiful pictures of a lovely watch … Let us start off by saying that if we’d known just how busy Melbourne-based photographer Kristoffer Paulsen was when we arranged to lend him the Black Bay 36, we’d have said, “How about we raincheck this project?” Not only is Kris under…

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06.05.2019

Read the debut issue of NOW – The Watch Buying Guide online … well, now

Last year we made our foray into the inky world of print with NOW – The Watch Buying Guide. A weighty tome that, in addition to shining a light on some interesting horological tales and factoids, also lived up to its promise — putting more than 200 of the best recent watch releases into one handy, almost encyclopaedic place. It had quite the ring as a proposition: 200 watches from $200 to more than $200,000, though that part was quite accidental. Regardless, it was a happy accident for buyers frustrated by the obfuscation around pricing that we all endure from the…

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06.05.2019

Restrained elegance – the Rolex Cellini Time

Editor’s note: Think Rolex, and the odds are high that you think sporty, if not straight-up steel. However, there’s a lot more to the brand than Hulking, Pepsi-sipping superheroes. There’s also the dressier, more delicate face of the brand. The side called Cellini, and here Andrew looks at the Rolex Cellini Time …  When the Rolex Cellini range was relaunched by Rolex in 2014 – including the Cellini Time – the General Manager of Rolex Australia, Patrick Boutellier, chose a line of poetry to announce the news: “The sleeping Prince has been awoken,” he said, or words to that effect,…

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05.05.2019

This Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph is not your average Speedy

Editor’s note: It’s no secret that there are heaps of Speedy variants to choose from, and typically we veer towards the more classical versions. Which is why we were so surprised by this Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph. It’s two-tone, with a silver dial and a green bezel. Not what we’d normally pick. But also, absolutely awesome.  If, at the start of 2016, you’d told me my favourite Omega of the year would be a two-tone Speedmaster (yellow gold, no less!) with a green bezel, I’d have enjoyed a good laugh at your expense. I like a Speedy as much as the…

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05.05.2019

In defence of the date window

Editor’s note: Fancy a date? No, we’re not talking Tinder or your other app of choice, we’re delving into the world of the seemingly innocuous date window. Where some see a useful calendar tool, others see a symbol of all that is wrong with the world. So, on which side of the date line do you stand? We’ve got a surprisingly complex relationship with date windows in the Time+Tide office. And not just because we’ve been known to forget to set them on occasion. No, every time we review a vintage reissue, it can be assured that we’ll have a host of…

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04.05.2019

10 of the best pilot’s watches

Editor’s note: Aviation-themed watches are one of the real fan-favourite genres, especially in Australia. And while there’s a lot of big brands capitalising on their high-flying heritage, there’s also some surprises in the mix. Here are our picks of 10 of the best pilot’s watches.  First things first, just what is a pilot’s watch? While I think most of us could instantly recognise one, there isn’t an exact formula like there is when it comes to dive watches — and there’s a lot more to it than simply being a watch a pilot would wear. Ultimately (since you asked), a pilot’s…

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03.05.2019

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000

Throughout our recent discussions on what it is that defines value, we’ve explored some different ways of approaching that question. Ultimately, it’s down to the wearer to decide the return on their investment, but which watches do we think are pretty darn likely to get a thumbs up from our readers across the board? So here are five top buys, broken up into different price points, with a brief explanation of why these watches made it onto the list. Please feel free to tell us where we went wrong in the comments section, and let us know which watches you’d…

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03.05.2019

5 things you need to know before you buy Rolex for the first time


Congratulations. You’ve decided to join one of the premier families in the watchmaking universe. That first decision to buy Rolex is seen by many as a rite of passage all watch lovers should experience at some point during their collecting career, and it’s one we support wholeheartedly. Since the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking began in the mid 1980s, Rolex has been ever-present, but it was not until the last decade of uncertainty reared its ugly head did Rolex really separate itself from the pack. I have said many times, and will continue to say, that Rolex is no longer a watch…

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03.05.2019

9 reasons why ‘90s watchmaking matters today

Editor’s note: Aaaah, the ’90s. That era of Hypercolour and fleece that seems, somehow, to be en vogue once more. It’s also an era that embodies a strange juxtaposition in watchmaking. On the one hand, it’s seen as a time that style forgot, while simultaneously playing host to some very significant horological innovations … Sitting between the now nostalgia-laden ’80s and the innovation explosion of the 2000s, the 1990s is seen as something of a watchmaking wasteland; a bold (and brash) period that’s currently out of fashion, but not far enough away to be viewed through the rose-tinted glasses of…

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02.05.2019

LIST: 6 milestone watches for milestone birthdays

Watches are fantastic birthday presents. They couldn’t really be any more fitting: A gift that tracks the passing of time to commemorate the time past. There is a poetic symmetry to it, and it’s no surprise that a huge amount of watches – especially those deemed ‘fashion’ watches – are purchased as gifts year on year. With that in mind, we’ve decided to put together a list of great milestone watches to buy someone as they reach special milestones in their life. Milestone 1 – the 21st Birthday watch You’re just starting out. Maybe your parents want to get you something…

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02.05.2019

HOW TO: Buy your first good watch

Stepping into a luxury jewellers, pockets full of the hard-earned cash you’re planning to drop on your first proper timepiece, can be a daunting prospect. In fact, assuming you haven’t just stumbled into a vast fortune and you’re buying a luxury watch simply because you assume it’s the done thing, there is no doubt your first foray into watch appreciation will be something of an emotional rollercoaster. Aside from the pretty much blanket discomfort most people feel when spending large amounts of money on anything, feelings such as doubt, fear, and (truthfully) guilt at making what seems like such an…

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02.05.2019

Why are Swiss watches considered the best?

This is something we get asked a lot. And not just by newcomers to the industry. To some minds, it instantly sticks out like a sore thumb that the Swiss products are regarded as sacrosanct and that the wares of all other nations should fall in line behind the masters. But to others, it just seems like the natural order of things. So engrained it is in their minds that they never feel the need to question it. Swiss means quality. Simple. How could the truth possibly be any more complicated than that? Well, surprise, surprise, it is. The short…

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02.05.2019

Is the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT “Flash Setting” the perfect travel watch?

Editor’s note: Typically watch snobs (us included) love to shun quartz-powered watches, but when it’s as clever (but not smart in the smartwatch sense) as this Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT review shows, it’s hard not to love.  The story in a second: A rare case of quartz having legit enthusiast appeal, albeit in a clever, and very novel, fashion. Say “it’s quartz” and countless watch nerds cringe; however, there have been some exceptions to the rule over the years. Of course, Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibres get a pass on account of the brand’s epic design and finishing, as well…

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01.05.2019

So hot it hurts, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST

Editor’s note: It’s not new, but it’s oh-so-hot and nigh on impossible to get. Read on for our review of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST — and weep … When the watchfam get together, it’s only a matter of time before the hot topic of grail watches rears its curious head. It’s no surprise, either, that for many collectors, their ultimate goal is usually found at the higher end of the watchmaking spectrum. Perhaps a Patek Philippe or something of the Vacheron variety? Or maybe the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Brought to life by Gérald Genta, when…

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01.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Have you ever seen a digital Monaco before? Meet the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine

One of the things I really like about this whole watch thing is that I can still be surprised. And when I spotted this post from the truly excellent Calibre 11, one of the leading resources for all things TAG Heuer and Heuer.   Now, I’m not claiming that I’m all over the Monaco — after all, the model turns 50 this year, and there’s been quite a bit of variation. But I did not expect to see a digital Monaco. Except then I did. This watch, with the very Swiss name of the Monaco Sixty Nine (in reference to the 1969…

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01.05.2019

They don’t come much brighter than the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic

Editor’s note: In the watch world we like to talk about trends. But the trends we’re talking about are pretty macro — after all, we’re talking a five-year production cycle, not five weeks. Fast fashion, watches are not. Having said that, one of the more prevalent trends is colour. Big, bold watches that stand out on the wrist. Hublot’s Big Bang Red Magic is one of the brightest stars (literally and figuratively) of recent times … “Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.” I’m fairly sure Arthur C. Clarke didn’t have Hublot — or even watches — in mind…

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30.04.2019

We answer the dreaded “if you could only have one watch” question …

Editor’s note: Full disclosure, this is 100 per cent hypothetical — no watch collections were harmed in the making of this list. Having said that, it’s a very fun hypothetical. Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It’s clearly hypothetical and I’m pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it’s a perennial watch party favourite, and can be pretty fun. It’s also a useful challenge for distilling just what it is you like about watches – it’s like mindfulness for watch…

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Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Swiss Watch Luxury 30.04.2019

Is it the GOAT steel sports model? Another look at the Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN

Editor’s note: Steel Daytonas have always been hard watches to get your hands on, and the latest Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN is no exception. And aside from the whole hype/status thing, it’s easy to see why. First released in 2016, it just looks the business. In case you’ve been living under a Rolex-shaped rock for the last few years, here’s our review of what might still be the hottest sports Rolex around … The story in a second The latest and greatest steel Daytona is here, and everyone loves it. The only problem? Getting your hands on it. It’s hard to…

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29.04.2019

Longines knock it out of the park with the Heritage Military

Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that’s down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that’s not to say that…

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29.04.2019

Bright plus bold makes the TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition a very fun option

Editor’s note: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition could very easily have been an over-the-top affair, but somehow, this big squarer watch with go-faster stripes manages to be much like its most famous wearer: cool.  The story in a second: Two stripes are all it takes to amp up the legacy and motorsports heritage of the Monaco. I’m willing to put the success of the Monaco down to two things: the Steve McQueen link, and the square shape. I’m sure there are numerous other factors, like the Calibre 11, at play. But really, it’s the fact that this watch…

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29.04.2019

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)

Editor’s note: We originally ran Andy’s interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look.  John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and a certifiable watchaholic. In his spare time, he runs the sales organisation for a small software company in Los Angeles, meaning he travels all around the US, meeting with customers and seeing places in the country that few would ever (voluntarily) go. How do you…

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29.04.2019

9 things you need to know before buying an Omega Constellation

Editor’s note: This guest post, from noted vintage watch dealer Derek Dier of WatchesToBuy, was written a few years ago now, but the advice is timeless, even if the prices for Omega Constellations are only going up. So, if you’re in the market for one of these old school beauties, make sure you read this first …  The Omega Constellation is so easily wearable. It’s one of those vintage watches almost every collector seeks at some point in their perpetual search for another piece to add to their collection. First appearing in 1952, the Constellation was designed to be Omega’s…

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28.04.2019

5 of the best American watches

Editor’s note: The other week news dropped about Timex’s lastest line, which is significantly made in America. Which got us to thinking about some other watches born in the USA. So we thought it was high time to have another look at this list … It might surprise you to know that in the first half of the last century, America was regarded as the force to be reckoned with when it came to watches — especially modern, efficient and mass-produced watches. But now, with great legacy brands like Waltham and Illinois consigned to the scrapheap of history, while others,…

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28.04.2019

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 in blue, grey and grape

Editor’s note: You don’t always need bells and whistles to make something truly exceptional. Sometimes less is more. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is a case in point. Here we look at the colourful series that was released a few years ago. And even though they’re not the latest, they’re still among the greatest.  The story in a second: This could well be the only watch you’ll ever need. There’s a concept in the world of watch enthusiasts that’s referred to as ‘only one watch’. For the majority of the population, this concept is better known as ‘normality’. But if…

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27.04.2019

This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch

Editor’s note: It’s slender, but it weighs a lot. It’s gold, but it doesn’t look like it. I just can’t get the Bulgari Octo Finissimo in rose gold out of my head. And that’s even factoring in the epic new black ceramic version we saw at Basel. Seriously, will someone spot me $60K? The story in a second: Bulgari’s latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your day off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it’s Bulgari’s darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now,…

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27.04.2019

Heritage case, awesome dials and unique movement – Grand Seiko SBGA373 and SBGA375

Editor’s note: It’s easy to get caught up in the hype around Grand Seiko dials (and these two beauties still pack a punch in that category), but the unique Spring Drive movement and 44GS-style case are just as noteworthy – as is the wearable size … In addition to the scene-stealing 9S 20th anniversary pieces, Grand Seiko have announced two new Spring Drive models at Baselworld 2018. Reference SBGA373 with a champagne dial, and SBGA375 in rich blue. Vital statistics With its inexorably smooth sweeping seconds hand, there’s something hypnotic about Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, powered and regulated by…

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26.04.2019

Looking for a great all-rounder that won’t break the bank? How about the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar?

Editor’s note: For whatever reason, I’m on a bit of a back-to-basics kick at the moment. I mean, high complications and high price tags are all well and good, but sometimes you crave the simpler things in life. And I guess for me, right now, the simpler things are watches. Only hang on — plot twist — turns out this watch here isn’t quite so simple: there’s an annual calendar in the mix, which has been realised in a refreshingly unfussy way. Read on for our review of the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar.  There are few things I love…

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26.04.2019

5 of the greatest watch moments on Antiques Roadshow (and if you don’t tear up on the last one, there’s something wrong with you)

Editor’s note: If we’re being completely honest, there’s one clear hero on this list. And it’s the old guy and his Rolex at the end. So if you’re time-poor, scroll on down to the bottom and have a look. Yes, even if you’ve seen it before. It gets better every time. Bless you, Antiques Roadshow.  I have a not-so-secret love in my heart for Antiques Roadshow — specifically the UK version, but the US version is pretty good, too. If you’re not familiar with the concept, it’s a show where random members of the public show up and have their junk/priceless…

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26.04.2019

5 solid microbrand watches for less than $500

Editor’s note: A good, interesting watch isn’t determined by the name on the dial or the number on the price tag. This piece from Cameron Wong (originally posted last year) proves the point. Five solid, wallet-friendly choices with personality — and usually — a real person behind them. What’s not to love about microbrand watches? What I love about the microbrand watch companies is that they’re run by guys and gals like you and me. The kind of people that appreciate watches, and find excitement in a unique dial or case design while getting a buzz out of a new…

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25.04.2019

The Sinn 104 St Sa I W – a super-tough daily wearer

Editor’s note: Sinn is well known for their bomb-proof tool watches, but can they do something a little more light and airy? In his review from a while back, Cam argues that yes, yes they can. And that watch is called the Sinn 104 St Sa I W. Famous for their formidable and over-engineered designs — which range from technically advanced mission timers to hardcore divers made of submarine steel — Sinn are arguably the most renowned tool watch manufacturer in the industry. However, the German company also hosts a suite of dressier pieces that are better suited to a boardroom than…

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25.04.2019

5 of the best GMTs for under $5000

Editor’s note: Travel is the unofficial national sport of Australians, which makes sense given our geographic remoteness. So we thought we’d do our bit by having another look at this list of best in budget GMTs, all in the very achievable $5000 or less price point.  One of the most useful everyday complications is the GMT or dual time zone. If you travel a lot or do business internationally it’s certainly a lot easier to check your GMT than to fiddle with your phone, trying to find the world clock app. Given the usefulness of this complication to the jet…

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24.04.2019

Is the Tudor Black Bay GMT the perfect travel watch?

Editor’s note: The other week I met up with a globetrotting friend from the internet (it happens more often than you might suspect), and on his wrist was the Tudor Black Bay GMT. It looked great, and more than that, old mate actually wore it travelling (as opposed to his vintage Rolex GMT), because it could: (a) handle the rigours of the road, and (b) he wasn’t constantly paranoid about scratching it. And really, isn’t the best travel watch the one you actually travel with? Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original…

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24.04.2019

What separates fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tag)?

Editor’s note: One of the hoary old sayings of watch collecting is, “Buy the best example you can afford.” And, for all its worn, chestnut-y appeal, the statement still rings true. Sure, saving a bit of cash for what is essentially the same thing might seem tempting, but in the long run, quality wins out. Here’s Justin’s excellent piece from last year on what you get for your money at various price points … It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a regular basis: ‘What makes one watch worth $1000 and another worth more than $100,000?’…

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24.04.2019

Pure as the driven snow, the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake

Editor’s note: It’s one of the most well-loved Japanese watches out there, and a legend in its own right. Only question — what’s cooler, the movement or the dial? You decide. Read on for our review of the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake.  Grand Seiko’s famous ‘Snowflake’ has been with us for quite some time now (it was first released, as the SBGA011, in 2010), and it’s quickly earned a reputation as an exemplary everyday watch that manages to combine functionality and beauty in equal measure. Smartly, Seiko knew enough to leave one of the cores of the Grand Seiko collection…

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23.04.2019

Smart money – 6 expert takes on the best value watches to buy

Editor’s note: Midway through last year, Justin did an excellent wrap of ‘value’ pieces, asking a range of industry leaders for their (very subjective) takes on the best value pieces RN. Nearly 12 months on, do you think these picks still hold up? And I wonder what the 2019 version would include … Anyone with an eye on horological news has seen their fair share of “Value Propositions” and other notes and recommendations about watches delivering varying shades of bang for your buck. Hell, we know we’ve made our own recommendations as we’ve seen fit over the years. That said,…

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23.04.2019

See the rainbow, taste the rainbow – Hublot style

Editor’s note: Rainbow bezelled watches are certainly enjoying their time in the sun at the moment – for years they’ve been seen as a women’s watch, or a left-field, quirky guys choice. But these days they’re increasingly accepted as a “serious” (in 10-foot tall air quotes) choice. Certainly, this Hublot from a few years back manages to blend serious wth playful very well indeed … The Hublot booth at Baselworld is a busy place, a multi-level monolith that’s more akin to a mini city than a trade show stand. We spent a few hours there, taking photos, shooting video and generally…

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23.04.2019

4 space watches that aren’t the classic Speedmaster

Editor’s note: It’s a big year for space-themed watches, what with the 50th anniversary of the Moon landing. And of course that means it’s a big year for Omega (who have already announced this solid gold stunner). But it’s worth noting that Omega don’t have a monopoly on that whole space thing. Here are some other out-of-this-world options … I’ve been a little spacey recently — and not just because Andrew has been reliving the glory of holding Gene Cernan’s Speedmaster, and First Man is on our must-watch list. On top of that, I’ve recently re-watched the excellent Hidden Figures…

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22.04.2019

This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor’s note: There’s a risk with dress watches that they become overly simple. Boring even. That’s not what’s going on with the Breguet Classique 7147, which manages to balance clean design, fine detail and Breguet’s storied design codes in one neat golden package … The story in a second: Breguet’s updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, modern convenience and just the right amount of playfulness. The Classique 7147 is the definition of a quiet achiever. It’s a simple, sturdy watch that does everything asked of it with style, and it does so with a sense of reserved assurance that only a…

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22.04.2019

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter?

Editor’s note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly every watch leaving Rolex’s Geneva facility has been a certified Chronometer, and from 1957 onwards, Rolex has been using the term ‘Superlative’ on their dials to describe that their watches don’t just meet Chronometer standards, but exceed them. Design purists might bemoan the resulting text-heavy dials…

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22.04.2019

6 great Swiss mechanical watches under $1500 (from brands you’ve heard of)

Editor’s note: There’s real weight behind the phrase “Swiss Made”, which is, in many ways, synonymous with quality. Oftentimes it’s also synonymous with expensive. But that doesn’t need to be the case, as these six watches, all of which were released in 2018, come in under $1500. Bonus, they all come from well-known, respected brands.  A Swiss watch is a near-universally recognised symbol for quality, precision and tradition. And while that’s all well and good, there’s another thing that fine Swiss watches tend to be synonymous with — and that’s high sticker prices. And broadly speaking, that perception is true…

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21.04.2019

Big blue, the IWC Big Pilot Edition “Le Petit Prince”

Editor’s note: IWC’s Big Pilot is one of the most significant watches of the last 20 years. Its deceptively simple design belied the huge impact this 46mm monster had on the watch scene. But can it go dressy? Well, the IWC Big Pilot Edition “Le Petit Prince” makes a solid argument for the yay camp.  When IWC released the original Big Pilot in 2002 it captured imaginations, marking a defining moment in the early noughties trend for ‘big’ watches. It was a brute, with its hulking 46mm case and utilitarian aesthetics. And if the original ref. 5002 Big Pilot had been…

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21.04.2019

8 ways to let your significant other know you’re about to buy a new watch …

Editor’s note: This piece, originally written by Andy Green waaaaaay back in 2017, is one of our most enduring and popular stories. It’s easy to see why. My favourite method is one in, one out. But it’s all solid advice … The reality is that watches are luxury goods, so the ‘need’ to buy them rarely occurs. That means for most, they naturally fall very low (some say too low) on life’s list of priorities, and most definitely do not outrank things like kids, mortgages and school fees. And unless your partner shares your passion, I’d gamble and say they…

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20.04.2019

Montblanc have their sights set on adventure with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere

Editor’s note: I’m on a bit of a travel watch trip at the moment. And, to my mind, they fall into two distinct camps: high-flyers and adventurers. Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere, which is a few years old now, definitely falls into the latter category. Now, it’s up to you where on the roughing-it-to-luxury spectrum that adventure falls. But you know what, this watch works in both contexts …  While the automatic, chronograph and Minerva versions of the 1858 collection bear a strong resemblance to the existing 1858 watches, the Geosphere is something else entirely. It’s also a watch that speaks most…

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20.04.2019

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 – black, white and utterly classic

Editor’s note: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 is an exceptional, nigh perfect, execution of a watch. And last year it was given two new dials, in crisp white and inky black. This is our review …  One of the real hits from Rolex’s 2015 collection was the Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300), a bare bones, simple steel timepiece that was still pure Rolex. Initially offered in a range of youthful, colourful dials, this year the Oyster Perpetual family expanded to include white and black dial variants, and they are, just quietly, awesome. While the case and bracelet are unchanged, it’s…

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20.04.2019

Going green never looked so good – 7 of the best green watches that prove it

Editor’s note: One of the easiest ways to freshen up a watch is to change the dial colour. Few colours are fresher than green, and in 2019 that trend doesn’t look like going away. Here’s a list we put together last year, of seven of the most envy-instilling green dials.  Today we’re following up on last week’s batch of blue-dialled watches with seven of the freshest green dials on the block. Green is shaping up to be the new en vogue colour, and I suspect that if we ran this list next year, we’d easily be able to double the number…

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19.04.2019

Turns out hand-painting watch dials is hard. Here’s the proof

Editor’s note: Look, we never thought it was easy. This is, after all, skilled manual labour. But Andrew discovered just how difficult hand-painting a watch dial is when he visited Franck Muller in Geneva …  I’m not above admitting it. I’m more than just a bit painful when it comes to painted versus printed dials. “Is this painted or printed?” is a question I’ve asked countless times. Receiving countless eye-rolls, I might add. And, full disclosure, I’ve always assumed that the colour, paint volume and line-perfect proportions of Franck Muller dials are the latter. Printed. But when I attended the Franck…

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19.04.2019

Erika’s Originals straps – hands down, some of the best on the market right now

Editor’s note: I ran into the lovely Erika a few times back at Baselworld, and it was clear she was having a good time. Her watches were flying off the shelves, and she had a collab with Bell & Ross that looked great. Her elastic parachute material straps offer a superb mix of comfort, style and story. Personalities like Erika are what make the watch industry great. If you need a primer on what Erika’s Originals straps are all about, here’s our interview from last year … Hi Erika, how did you find yourself making watch straps? It is pure…

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18.04.2019

4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch

Editor’s note: I don’t know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos — recently given an all new and improved makeover — is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. Even in its more precious varieties. Don’t believe me? Read on … While you can make an argument for one-watch-per-purpose (a watch for work, weekend, formal occasions, etc), I personally think that versatility is the key to a good watch. Luckily, versatility is something the…

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18.04.2019

“They’re impossible to get, and guys like me ruin them.” Greg Yuna on custom watches

Editor’s note: It takes a special kind of swag to not only get your hands on the hottest watches on the market, but to then decide to do some aftermarket mods on them. If you’ve got that level of swag and lean towards diamonds, you should probably meet Greg Yuna. We chatted to him last year … Once known as ‘Mr Flawless’, Greg Yuna is an entrepreneur and custom jeweller to celebrities like Drake, Floyd Mayweather Jr and Meek Mill. We talk custom watches with Greg, to gain some insight into one of the more controversial parts of the watch…

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17.04.2019

10 things you’ve always wanted to know about Grand Seiko, but were too afraid to ask …

Editor’s note: Anxious about reference numbers? Confused by Spring Drive? You’re not alone. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back. Here’s a handy video guide to explain the ins and outs of Grand Seiko … I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang and verbal shorthand can be confusing at best and exclusionary at worst — it can feel like a club with its very own secret language. And the hardest thing is that the language changes with every brand. Take…

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17.04.2019

That time we reviewed the Rolex Explorer II 16570 – just because

Editor’s note: New steel Rolex is almost impossible to find at retail, and pricing on discontinued models is getting prohibitive for mere mortals. One model that’s still a little easier to get (for now) is the Rolex Explorer II 16570 — and even that landscape is changing rapidly. In fact, prices have likely shot up by 20 – 30 per cent since Bruce reviewed it last year … Today’s review of the Rolex Explorer II is a little unusual on several accounts. Most significantly it’s of a watch that’s been discontinued for seven years. Given this fact, Bruce (of BLNR fame)…

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16.04.2019

The perfect $20,000 watch collection, according to the T+T team …

Editor’s note: There are few things I love more than a good hypothetical, and this is a doozy. The rules? $20,000 to spend ONLY on watches that you don’t already own. It’s a surprisingly tricky challenge and, when done right, really makes you hone down what you want in watches. Also, it’s a small enough amount that it prevents any super pie-in-the-sky choices, and keeps things vaguely achievable. This is what the team came up with last year … Late last week, Dan innocently asked a question: “Hey, what watches would you get for $20k?” Let’s just say it opened…

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14.04.2019

8 watches that put the great in Great Britain

Editor’s note: We’ve been on a bit of a Bremont trip recently, and while the aviation-based brand is perhaps the UK’s most well known watch brand, they’re not the only one. Last year, Cameron explored some of the other options … There’s a revolution afoot! And it’s taking place on British shores. While the world – admittedly, us included – tends to focus a lot more on watchmaking of the continental kind, the wonderful world of modern watches mightn’t be where it is today without the innovations and inventions brought to us by the British watchmaking industry. In 1755, Thomas…

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14.04.2019

This Seiko is one of the best dress watches in the game right now, and it costs less than a grand

Editor’s note: I’m wearing a Cocktail Time as I write this. Steel, deep blue dial. It’s a ridiculously great watch. Especially when you consider the asking price. This is why it’s great … If you’re ‘into’ watches, it’s easy to fall into a perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko’s colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with a RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it’s…

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14.04.2019

Like blue dials? Here’s 15 of the best

Editor’s note: Who doesn’t love blue? It’s fun, it’s dressy, and it’s a heck of a lot less boring than black or white. So, here’s that time we wrapped up 15 winners from 2018.  Over the next month or so we’re going to be running a series of colour-coded stories, where we focus less on the movements and case details and more on the dials. The brighter and bolder, the better. To kick things off we’ve rounded up a bunch of the best new blue dials because, honestly, who doesn’t love blue? From subtle to shimmering to downright electric, this…

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13.04.2019

The value proposition on this Tissot is next-level. Seriously, it’s a lot of watch for the money

Editor’s note: Just quietly, the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic is an incredible amount of watch for the money. Cool dial, modern bells and whistles, and a strong power reserve. And it looks good.  This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can’t think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic 80 movement (more than three days of power reserve rocks) in a good-looking, well-made 300m diver, you get nice little features like the gradient dial and ceramic bezel. So much win. On…

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13.04.2019

In the market for an Omega Aqua Terra? Watch this

Editor’s note: In the market for a truly excellent, everyday watch with superlative quality and solid style? How about the Omega Aqua Terra? Good choice. Not sure which one? Well, watch this video … One of the secrets of the Omega Aqua Terra’s success is its versatile charm. In its dark-dialled and gold incarnations it’s super dressed-up, but put it on a leather or rubber strap and it becomes a much more casual proposition. This is a watch that could pull tuxedo duty or go with board shorts (and the 150 metres of water resistance means it’s safe to take…

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12.04.2019

Everose and moss – is this still the hottest Rolex Day-Date on the market?

Editor’s note: On its own, a Rolex is a power move. A precious metal Rolex more so. A Day-Date? Now you’re talking? The Day-Date 40 in Everose with a green dial? Winner winner.  It’s no real surprise that Rolex — the world’s most reputable brand — is a class act. For me this was proven when I saw the beautiful new green-dialled Day-Date 40 on the first day of this year’s Baselworld fair. That class factor was cemented when I discovered the watch was available in stores on the very same day of its release. Not many brands could pull off a…

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12.04.2019

The 6 most overused words in the watch industry

Editor’s note: This story is a little bit old now, but you know what, it’s as relevant as ever. So, if you love watches, maybe you’ll have a laugh. If you work in a watch brand marketing department, maybe you can tone down some of these well-worn chestnuts.  A large part of my job is sifting through press releases. After a while they all start reading the same, thanks to the seemingly limited vocabulary of most marketing departments. And you know what the greatest irony is? While these communications have been designed to make the watch they’re talking about stand…

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11.04.2019

Daily style done right, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

Editor’s note: This year’s SIHH from JLC was very much a return to their core – high complications and Reversos. Don’t forget, though, that last year saw the brand break out with a bold, sporty collection – the Polaris. We take another look at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic. The Polaris  is one of those truly iconic watches conceived in a golden age, not just of watchmaking but also of global exploration. This year the Polaris got the nod for the remake and revamp treatment, being offered in five new models, starting with the deceptively simple Polaris Automatic. The uncomplicated, no fuss Polaris…

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11.04.2019

IWC make that luxury yacht life look oh-so-good

Editor’s note: The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph might not be the first watch that comes to mind when you think of IWC (it’s not a Pilot for example), but really, maybe you should change that. Just look at Jason’s snaps from our 2018 review.  The story in a second: The sportiest member of the Portugieser family is busy living its best life. IWC’s Portugieser family is, large diameter aside, a fairly dressy affair. Classic style, leaf hands, all that jazz. It’s the classic business watch. Except, of course, for the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a watch that is business casual at…

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08.04.2019

Midnight diver – the Longines Legend in black

Editor’s note: The Longines Legend Diver got a dark makeover last year, and even though it’s 12 months on, we still can’t get enough of this all-black look. Can you blame us? The Longines Legend Diver Watch, a reimagined version of a diving watch from the 1960s, had a dramatic reintroduction in 2017, care of the Milanese bracelet addition — perhaps the best strap hack of the year, period — and now it’s going to set pulses racing even faster with a new version in black PVD. Vital statistics Apart from the PVD, the Legend Diver remains true to the bold styling…

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07.04.2019

What’s featherlight, heavyweight and striped like a tiger? The Panerai Submersible Carbotech

Editor’s note: Few brands have the on-the-wrist presence of a Panerai. Pair that with the futuristic look of Carbotech and you’re onto a winner. Read our review from last year to find out why we love it.  At first glance, Panerai’s watches share a reassuring familiarity — large cases, large crown guards and a dial design that puts legibility front and centre. A close look at the catalogue will show that the brand born from its Italian diving heritage has quite a lot of diversity on offer, particularly when it comes to case materials. From bronze to ceramic and (most…

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Seiko Presage Cocktail Time, light brown leather strap 06.04.2019

Here’s 4 reasons why Seiko is one of the most impressive watchmakers in the world

Editor’s note: My first proper manufacture visit wasn’t Switzerland, but Japan. And honestly, the experience has spoiled me. The breadth and scope of Seiko’s watchmaking capacity really is staggering. Read on to find out why … I’ve always liked Seiko. One of the first watches I ever bought was a Black Monster, followed by an ever-rotating roster of rock-solid SKX divers as well as the odd vintage piece, including an original Turtle, a 6139 ‘Pogue’ chronograph (sadly missed) and not one but two 4006-6031 Bell-Matics (neither of which are currently running, but that’s a different story). So when Seiko Australia…

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06.04.2019

JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool

Editor’s note: Whether you’re a wannabe operator or just in love with the stealth appeal of ceramic, this JLC is pretty much the definition of tacticool, even with the blue details.  Based on the coverage of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s SIHH releases, it’d be fair to assume the brand put out nothing but dressy Reversos this year. Well, that’s not true. One of the more under-the-radar releases was a handsome update to the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic. Physically and functionally, the new version is unchanged from the 2014 original. It’s still the same imposing black ceramic 46mm case, paired with a technical-looking ‘Trieste’ calfskin strap…

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05.04.2019

Is the North Flag the forgotten Tudor?

Editor’s note: When it was first released, waaaaay back in 2015, the North Flag was a big deal. So much so that the main question in our review was whether or not Tudor was planning to move beyond their heritage core. Well, history has answered that question (heritage is here to stay), but that doesn’t mean that the North Flag, with its genuinely interesting design, isn’t a worthy watch … The story in a second In the days before Baselworld 2015 the speculation surrounding the next big Tudor release was high. Even so, no one saw the North Flag coming.…

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04.04.2019

John Mayer just made this green and gold Daytona the next hype-piece 

Editor’s note: One of the biggest takeaways from John Mayer’s Daytona-fest that was his Talking Watches Part 2 was the fact that the dude managed to blow up 2016’s yellow gold and green-dialled Daytona overnight. If you can get it now, get it. Here’s our original review (and Jason’s stunning pics) of this yellow gold stunner … Though the devastatingly cool new steel Daytona is the Rolex chronograph de jour, this year the brand also released new variations of their classic chrono in white and yellow gold. Today, we’re having a look at the reference 116508, in 18 carat yellow gold with a…

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04.04.2019

So, if this Rado isn’t made from metal or ceramic, just what is it made from? Ceramos

Editor’s note: The Rado Thinline Ceramos — one of the brand’s most interesting (materially speaking) pieces from last year — has hit Aussie shores. Time to have another look.  When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra-hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they’ve chosen to deploy Ceramos on…

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03.04.2019

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be…

Editor’s note: Last year, Andy Green did what he does, and had an intense Instagram browsing session to come up with this list of five celebs who are more likely than most to rock some serious wrist hardware. Given John Mayer’s recent redux of his Hodinkee Talk Watches piece, we thought the time was ripe to re-share it now … Recently I wrote a list of watch brand CEOs to follow on Instagram, which led to a series of other ideas around interesting ‘lists’ of collectors. Today, we’re looking at a list of five celebrity watch collectors you should be following…

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03.04.2019

Is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Diver the best everyday wearer on the market right now?

Editor’s note: One of the greatest watch releases of 2018 was the brand new, revamped Seamaster Professional from Omega. A compelling combination of good design, great construction and a price that is competitive to say the least. It all adds up to a watch that’s hard to beat as an all day, every day contender. Here’s our review from last year.  Story in a second: The much-loved diver just got a serious makeover. Omega’s Seamaster Professional 300M is a true legend of the watch world, a watch that will be eternally associated with Bond – specifically Pierce Brosnan, the Bond who…

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18.02.2019

HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches

For today’s review of Seiko’s Shippo Enamel watches (SPB073 and SPB075 to be precise), we’re doing something a little different, because, as it happens, two of the T+T team, Sandra and Justin, happen to own one of each. So, over to them on the how, the why and what they’re like on the wrist … First encounters Sandra: It started with Cocktail Time – no, not the Happy Hour when you sit around enjoying fancy drinks, but Seiko’s watch collection of that name. They had me at the dials – the beautiful texture, the gorgeous colours. Not to mention Seiko’s…

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01.11.2018

ANNOUNCING: We are selling Seiko’s latest stunning Cocktail Time, the Fuyugeshiki ‘Winter Scene’ SRPC97J1 

Take two parts dial, one part case, one part movement and two dashes of typical Seiko value and you have a recipe for a particularly tasty cocktail; in this case, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ‘Fuyugeshiki’ limited edition, specifically the 40.5mm SRPC97J1, and the 33.8mm SRP843J1. We are pleased to offer limited numbers of both models for sale within Australia in our shop, buy them here. Also included in the sale is a copy of NOW – THE WATCH BUYING GUIDE, Time+Tide’s first publication. These limited edition watches are inspired by cocktails created by Hisashi Kishi, the head bartender at Tokyo’s Star Bar,…

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Chanel boy friend skeleton Swiss Watch Luxury 30.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The evolution of Chanel’s in-house watchmaking

Editor’s note: I’ve been saying for a few years now that Chanel is one to watch on the watchmaking front. They’ve been making watches for years of course, but in more recent times they’ve stepped up the intensity, offering beautiful (and beautifully executed) in-house movements. Sandra has the story … It’s seven years since Chanel Horlogerie decided to start developing its own movements in-house and in the last three of those years it has launched three new calibres – or four, when counting Calibre 2.1 separately. Each is strikingly different from anything offered by other haute horlogerie brands – and…

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th anniversary reference 5168G, white gold blue dial 26.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Why you shouldn’t think about investment value when buying a new watch

Editor’s note: One of the questions we constantly get asked is about watches as investments. And while there’s no doubt that watches are being increasingly seen as a viable category for investment, In this piece originally written last year Sandra argues that it’s not a path you should go down — especially with new watches. Read on.  Being in the watch writing line of work, it’s no great surprise that friends and acquaintances often ask me for watch-buying advice. Call it an occupational hazard, call it a compliment that they should consider my advice worth seeking, but (unlike a doctor…

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03.03.2018

LIST: 5 watches we’d love to see – our Baselworld 2018 predictions

Last year, Andy and I put together a fun little speculative list on heritage reissues we’d like to see in 2018. It was a fun story, so we thought we’d revisit it — with a Basel twist. We sat down over some cold brew (coffee, not beer) and hashed out our wish list of Basel releases, and then brutally critiqued the plausibility and flaw in each other’s ideas. Like I said, fun.   Tudor Green Pelagos Andy: Somewhere, someone on the interwebs had the idea (and photoshop skills) to turn the Tudor Pelagos green (one of our photos no less!). Now,…

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11.02.2018

INSIGHT: A Due double take – two perspectives on the smaller Panerai Luminor Due models

Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it’d be a smart idea to get two takes on these models, courtesy of slender-wristed Sandra and Felix (and his mighty wrists). First thoughts Sandra Lane: Shock, horror! Panerai have made a “small” watch. Some are calling it a watch for women (or – God forbid – even a ‘girly’ watch) but really it’s not. It is simply a watch…

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Sylvester Stallone Tiffany Rolex 21.12.2017

INSIGHT: Sylvester Stallone and his Tiffany & Co Rolex Submariner

Editor’s note: Matt Hranek’s now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  SYLVESTER STALLONE actor, director & screenwriter Tiffany & Co. gold Rolex Submariner reference 1680/8 This, by far, is the watch I’m most emotionally connected to. The first time I saw it, it was on the…

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Frank Castronovo IWC Mark XV 20.12.2017

INSIGHT: Frank Castronovo and his IWC Mark XV

Editor’s note: Matt Hranek’s now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  FRANK CASTRONOVO Chef & co-owner, Frankies Spuntino Group IWC Mark XV My grandfather was an amazing guy, a working-class kid made good. He grew up in Brooklyn during the Depression. It was a tough life.…

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19.12.2017

INSIGHT: James H. Ragan and his Omega Speedmasters

Editor’s note: Matt Hranek’s now sold-out book, A Man and His Watch, is one of the real standouts of the watch year, a beautiful and thoughtful text, packed with 76 stories of watches and the people who wear them. So taken were we by this book, we asked Matt if it would be possible to republish a few of his interviews. He kindly said yes.  JAMES H. RAGAN former aerospace engineer, NASA Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches I didn’t get to NASA until the start of the Gemini days, and watches were just one of many, many pieces I tested and procured…

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02.07.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I’ll always be a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s Note: Last week I shared an opinion piece on why I’m not so into vintage watches these days, so today we’re seeing what the other side of the coin looks like, courtesy of avowed vintage lover, Julian Sack, who has very few ‘new’ watches in his roll. Take it away, Julian! I’m a watch collector. I didn’t know it when my father gave me an IWC after my graduation, but in the years and decades since, I’ve realised that collecting vintage watches is a part of who I am. I’ve come to love the stories and history that live in old…

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22.01.2017

WATCHSPOTTING: Which tennis player wears what in 2017?

Editor’s note: Whether they know it or not, anyone in a highly visible profession is likely to have their wristwear critiqued by a cadre of hardcore watch geeks. Politicans, actors and athletes are all fair game. Today in a special guest post, Paxton Wong casts his ever-watchful eye over the watch choices of some of the world’s best tennis players, just as the Australian Open heats up in week two. They say tennis is all in the wrist. Perhaps here is where the secret lies? Looking a little closer, players appear to be balancing the weight of the racquet in…

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23.12.2016

MY WEEKEND WITH: The Cartier Hypnose – by The Tia Fox

All this week, we’ve been sharing our collaboration with style influencer Melanie Liu, aka The Tia Fox, to showcase Cartier’s Hypnose collection. Today, she puts on her reviewer hat (which would be painfully chic and limited edition, were it not metaphorical), to let us know exactly what she thought of the three models she tested out. Early this week she told us about the story behind the photoshoot, so make sure to watch it unfold in the full gallery below. My first impression of the three watches was… that they were stunning at first sight, which was a lovely surprise. The whole line is very beautiful and feminine. What…

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25.11.2016

EDITOR’S PICK: Dark visions – the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Black Ceramic

Editor’s Note: Last time we looked at the midnight visage of the all-black Heuer-01 it was in the bustle and busyness of Baselworld. Eight months later and the watch is now starting to be seen on Australian wrists. Building off the modular platform of 2015’s bold new Carrera, this model is far more sexy than stealthy. But as David Chalmers explains, the black ceramic case makes the watch even tougher. The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 Black Ceramic is the first time ever that TAG Heuer has released a fully ceramic case for a watch in their men’s range (they’ve offered a women’s Formula 1 model…

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25.08.2016

IN-DEPTH: We fight over the new grey-dialled Slim d’Hermès

The story in a second With a slender profile, top-notch movement and a dial to die for, the Slim d’Hermès has a lot more going for it than just the name. Hermès might be better known for its much-coveted Birkin bags than high-end horology, but the Slim d’Hermès looks set to change all that. First unveiled in 2015, the watch has evolved this year with two new dial variants in slate grey and blue – and when we tried to assign this piece, both Ceri and Felix wanted it, and wouldn’t let it go. Our first solution was to let them wrestle it out on the office floor, which would…

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22.08.2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: Into the blue with the Montblanc 1858 Manual Small Second video review

It started with the 1858, which – in an insanely busy year for Montblanc – dropped out of the big blue sky. We were excited. We were titillated. We were a little flummoxed to be honest. Thoroughly embracing the spirit of the Manufacture Minerva that Montblanc acquired, it was almost a case of innovation overload. Almost. Because when we saw it in the metal, we better understood the play, which seemed to be: 1.Wrap Minerva into the brand story at an entry as well as elite price point. 2. Give the elegant Heritage Chronométrie range a more rugged brother to cover all…

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13.08.2016

HOW TO: Survive the 8 stages of the Sydney City2Surf

In the 46 years it’s been going, the City2Surf has grown to become the world’s largest fun run, taking place each August in Sydney, bang in the middle of the southern hemisphere’s glorious winter. This year, around 80,000 people have entered the race, which kicks off tomorrow morning at 7:50am in the city centre before meandering 14km through the Eastern Suburbs to its final destination at Bondi Beach. All of these facts compelled you to sign up and now, with less than 24 hours to go, it’s time to get in the zone. Well, we’re here for you. The best…

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03.08.2016

MY WEEK WITH: The Drive de Cartier – by Chris Edwards

Warning: This watch review with a difference may contain traces of mancrush. So let’s address the chiselled jaw on the elephant in the room. We envy the hero of this shoot, Mr Chris Edwards, more than just a little bit. Let us count the ways. He surfs and still dresses as sharply as anyone in the country (see these stunning photographs for perfectly fitted proof). On the business front, he co-founded a high-end tailoring business – Oscar Hunt. To make matters even more unreasonable, he was recently crowned the Australian ‘Drive Man’ by Cartier. But perhaps the hardest thing to stomach…

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06.07.2016

OPINION: Why I’ll always be a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s Note: The other week I wrote an opinion piece on why I’m not so into vintage watches these days. We received a tonne of feedback on it, some of you thought I’d hit the nail on the head, others thought I was off my rocker. In short, it did what a good piece of opinionated writing should do – divided our audience and started some conversations. In which case, it’s only right that we present the other side of the picture. Stepping up to the plate is avowed vintage lover Julian Sack, who recently reported for us from the…

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03.06.2016

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 3rd June, 2016, winter is here

Your boy Jon Snow may have been banging on about it for some time, but winter’s finally arrived here in the southern hemisphere. By mid-afternoon on Saturday, Harvey Norman’s electric blanket aisle will have been decimated, so don’t leave your run too late. That’s the weekend taken care of, but what of the week that was? Well, this: What happened After an unveiling in January, A. Lange & Söhne has released the Saxonia Thin in two sizes: 37mm and 40mm. At just 5.9mm high, it’s the slimmest piece they offer, but the big news is the RRP. At $22,000, the…

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03.06.2016

OPINION: How to buy your first baller watch – by @fakewatchbusta

Editor’s Note: Any Instagram-savvy watch fan who doesn’t follow @fakewatchbusta and @rolex_enforcer is either lying, in need of a tip, or perhaps they just have enough entertainment in their lives already. We fall into the camp of those that enjoy the odd bust, with a preference for the posts that can help educate (as well as eviscerate) on the telltale signs of fakery and forgery. Too-slim batons? Poorly cut out numerals? Skate ramp rehaut? Shivers of pure delight for watch geeks.  Occasionally, in amongst the (unhelpful) troll army takedowns, you get a glimpse of the impressive, detailed knowledge these guys are able…

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23.05.2016

INSIGHT: How to lose at Geneva watch auctions – a handy guide

Editor’s Note: In this special guest post, Time+Tide reader Julian Sack recounts his experiences of trying to buy a watch at the recent Christie’s and Phillips auctions in Geneva – and the lessons he learned along the way. Julian is a collector with many years’ experience, with a penchant for the Rolex Prince and Patek Philippe. If you ever plan on buying at a big-budget auction, this is a must-read. I’d never before attended any of the big Geneva watch auctions, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. My first stop after clearing customs was Christie’s, to get a closer look…

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14.05.2016

EXCLUSIVE OPEN LETTER: FakeWatchBusta answers the question, is it ever OK to wear a fake watch?

I am the person behind the @fakewatchbusta account on Instagram and I was kind of shocked when I got the assignment of writing on this topic. It’s like asking Superman if it’s OK to bring kryptonite to the party. Anyways, I’ll approach this as seriously as I can…. ARGUMENT #1 – “I wear fake watches when I travel in case I get robbed” In the words of penny stockbroker Timothy Sykes: “Rich people wear fakes as backups, especially in third world countries… but poor people don’t get that.” The argument here is that he might get robbed? Do you think…

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28.01.2016

OPEN LETTER: How I came to love watches, by Kris Smith

Editor’s Note:  Attend enough watch brand events and you’ll notice the same faces in the crowd – well-dressed people you know well enough to exchange small talk with, and share a drink, until you see each other again at the next boutique opening. This is how we met Mr Smith, Mr Kris Smith – model, Myer ambassador and watch lover. It’s this last point that really matters. Because Kris isn’t just there, where we so often meet, for the champagne and photo-op, he’s often there for the watches. We bonded. Things escalated quickly when we noticed Kris commenting on Instagram, and tagging us…

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15.12.2015

ANNOUNCING: The Holiday Buying Guide

In December, the questions get out of control. From friends, family, Instagram followers, cab drivers, you name it. As soon as people establish that you’re in watches, there are the questions; “Hey, I was thinking of getting <XXXXX> a <XXXXX> for Christmas / Hannukah / their work bonus, what else would you recommend?” We like talking about watches. In fact, it’s the one thing we never tire of, which is lucky. But for expedience this year, we’ve packaged 12 of the very best possibilities in one place – the Holiday Buying Guide. The watches suggested vary in price point, but…

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19.03.2015

EVENT: Discover the Longines Watercolour Watch Project, live from Baselworld

Hello. My name is Sunflowerman and I was raised in Grand Rapids, Michigan. This week I am stationed in Basel, Switzerland. My work at the Baselworld fair also happens to be my passion in life; painting people, painting places and for the first time, painting watches for Longines, a watchmaker I was introduced to by my friends at Time+Tide. They will write the reviews, as normal, but rather than photographs of the watches, I am going to paint them. I’m not a complete novice when it comes to timepieces – but I have to admit, when I set foot inside the halls of…

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22.12.2014

THE XMAS LIST: Time+Tide’s Naughty and Nice Watch List for 2014, starring…. YOU

‘Twas the week before Christmas…. And we all know what that means for watch magazines and websites: watch buying guides, last-minute gift ideas, lists of accessories for the hard-to-buy-for watch lover and lots of scouring of shipping small print to make sure it will arrive before the big day. We’ve ummed and aaahed about how to commemorate our first ever Christmas and we thought we’d go to the only list that matters at this time of year, the list kept by the bearded fat man in red. Instead of give you our picks for the year, in a handy  list, we’ve…

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16.10.2014

Quite possibly the best prize ever – Win a Baume & Mercier Clifton and celebrate on a tropical island (COMPETITION CLOSED – WINNER ANNOUNCED SOON!)

The thing about a GMT watch, which allows you to take in multiple time zones at a glance, is that it immediately makes the mind wander to travel. And usually to places you’d rather be. For example: beaches, tropical breezes, and ultra luxury accommodation, all far away from the madding crowds… It is our absolute pleasure to announce that Time+Tide, in partnership with Baume & Mercier and boutique hotel specialists Mr & Mrs Smith is giving you the chance to win all of the above – on an island. The prize includes our favourite Baume & Mercier Clifton, the GMT, and…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH80 Swiss Watch Luxury 09.04.2014

BREAKING NEWS: Time+Tide Reboots the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre CH80

While TAG Heuer’s Carrera CH80 was one of the hits of Baselworld 2014, our man David Chalmers from Calibre 11, (the world’s leading source of news for TAG Heuer collectors) tells us that the model shown last week will likely change between now and when it hits the stores. This might sound unusual, but its actually par for the course. Many people forget that Baselworld is actually a trade show, where dealers come to place their orders for the year. That gives the brands the chance to make subtle changes to the designs of the watches that they show before…

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25.03.2014

WHO ARE WE?

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE WATCH INDUSTRY

We have some potentially alarming news… Despite scientific evidence to the contrary, what attaches a wearer to their watch is not, in fact, its strap or its bracelet.

It is its story.

Time+Tide is a media group of world-leading watch writers who have bonded over this shared belief. We are not reading enough old-fashioned, beautifully crafted story in the current watch media landscape, so, together, we are going to write it.
We are dedicated to unearthing the untold stories of both the well-known and yet-to-be-known brands and watches. We then share this information online, in print (glorious print) and in other surprising places, such as events and launches.

We are less about the movement of the piece than we are about what moved the designer or watchmaker to create it in the first place.

We endeavour to get as close as possible to this original inspiration, the human story behind the mechanical marvel. We are also united in our mission to bring the stylish everyday wristwatch wearer back into the frame of global watch media.
We are less about the celebrity ambassador on the billboard than we are about the entirely unfamous watch wearer on the street: this discerning individual who has chosen to wear 17th century mechanical technology in a thoroughly digital age. Why did they choose today’s piece? What does it say about them? How did they come to own it in the first place?

So, a watch media platform for telling, and better still, sharing, stories about watches and wearers? You might say, “it’s about time.”

And, in the final instance, it is about time. “Time and tide waits for no man” is the very saying that inspired us to action. We know that the human heart is not a perpetual calendar. We also know that our so-called golden age is now and that it happens to be coinciding with yet another golden age for horology. Exciting times to say the least.

We look forward to telling watch stories and sharing wearer journeys that will inspire, educate and entertain.

Sincerely,
Time+Tide

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22.03.2014

DO FIRST GUYS FINISH LAST?

Now in its 60th year, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms watch has become a legend. A legend that is steeped in history. It is a history with three main protagonists: Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO for three decades from 1950-1980, who was himself a passionate diver, and Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, both of the French combat diving corps, who needed a watch for their military diving missions. These two poles come together to give birth to the legend. Blancpain was not part of the equation when Maloubier and Riffaud began their quest for a watch in the aftermath of…

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21.03.2014

The Future: Engineered for Women?

The ‘Ari’ by independent watchmaker Eva Leube. If you’re a discerning woman in the luxury watch world, you’re hard pressed to find a watch designed for a woman that isn’t quartz, the size of a men’s subdial or covered with stones. What happened? How did we come to this?  Where are the cutting edge watches for women? The luxury watch world is currently, for better or worse, a man’s, man’s world. Yet this wasn’t always the case. Here’s something you don’t hear about in most brand’s origin stories; wristwatches were originally designed to be worn by wealthy women. While men…

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