11 of the best manually wound watches, from cheap and cheerful dailies to the downright avant-garde
Borna BošnjakIf you’re anything like me, part of the enjoyment of watches is setting aside a bit of time to wind and set them. Bonus points for perfectly synchronising all of the seconds hands as well – but that could be just me. While automatic movements are undoubtedly more appropriate for someone with a one-watch collection, there is still that innate charm that makes these ancient bits of technology that we still use that much more appealing. You’ll also often hear that hand-wound watches are the choice of the purists, and while I mostly disagree with that statement, I will back the fact that there’s nothing quite like an exquisitely decorated movement unobstructed by a rotor (unless we’re talking micro-rotors, of course). Here are some of the best manually wound watches available today.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
There is no better way to start a list of the best hand-wound watches than with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. Ask any watch nerd what entry-level watch you should look at, and chances are, it’ll be this one. Whether it’s the 1960s aesthetics, mid-size case, approachable price (or all three), it’s difficult to find much to complain about this cult classic. Movement-wise, it’s powered by the Hamilton H-50 movement, essentially a rotorless variant of Swatch Group’s mighty Powermatic 80 line-up, offering the weekend-proof, 80-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. Price: starting from US$595, available from the Time+Tide Shop
Furlan Marri Disco Volante
Though early “disco volante” models emerged in the 1930s, the space-age aesthetic really came to prominence in the 1960s. Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante could fit into any of the aforementioned decades stylistically, while offering a bit of retrofuturism with its green-glowing luminescent dial pattern. With a 38mm x 38mm case, it’ll wear like the smooth pebble that it is, but the real treat here is actually the movement.
Furlan Marri chose the old-school Peseux 7001 for its slimness, but also for its ability to transform into something beautiful. The redesigned and hand-bevelled bridges are a rarity at the price point of the Disco Volante, and the sunray-finished wheels are just a plus. Price: US$2,780, available from the Time+Tide Shop
Omega Speedmaster Professional
In today’s society, convenience is often key, hence why a lot of the watches that become the most popular are automatic. There is one distinct outlier, and one we can’t omit – the Omega Speedmaster Professional. A fan-favourite among collectors, enthusiasts and the general public alike, the Speedmaster is a manually wound watch that still captures imaginations today.
The Calibre 3861 is METAS-certified, with a Daniels Co-Axial escapement, and boasts a 50-hour power reserve – and it’s not as delicate as some might have you think. As I’m sure you know, the Speedmaster passed the rigorous tests that NASA put it through to take it to the Moon, so I’m sure it can manage your daily journey to the water cooler. Unlikely to ever fade away, the Speedmaster will always be the people’s favourite manual watch. Price: starting from US$6,600
Grand Seiko SLGW003
Lately, Grand Seiko has been getting all the plaudits for its many nature-inspired dials. In the past, however, the Japanese powerhouse relied on chronometer-grade, high-beat movements as its main claim to fame. For the longest time, however, the brand just didn’t have a 5Hz, hand-wound movement in its arsenal, but that changed at Watches and Wonders 2024, with the new Evolution 9 SLGW003. Surprisingly, this one doesn’t have a nickname yet – Manual Birch, anyone? Doesn’t quite roll off the tongue, does it? Whatever the GS fandom decides to call it, the Brilliant Hard Titanium case and vertical birch dial pattern are hard to look past, but once you do, you’re greeted by something just as good.
The new 9SA4 calibre completely fills out the display caseback and is well-decorated for the price point. Razor-thin bevels surround the wide plates, while all the screws and jewels are set in polished countersinks, contrasting against the finely striped backdrop. The specs are not to be scoffed at either, as the 9SA4 beats at the aforementioned 5Hz, with an 80-hour power reserve and stated accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. Price: US$10,700
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
You think JLC, you think of the Reverso. It was originally designed with polo players in mind, letting them flip the front-facing dial over to an often ornately decorated, yet protective back side. Things have moved on, and now the Reverso is rarely considered a sports watch, becoming a common choice for dressier occasions. With the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, you actually get two watches in one, with the front featuring a simple, two-handed blue sunburst dial, while the rear dial shows off the skeletonised chronograph.
The watch is powered by the manufacture Calibre 860, a complex, manually wound, retrograde chronograph, compressed into a tiny package just 5.44mm thick, which is impressive considering the sheer number of functions. Overall, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is beautifully finished in its classically rectangular stainless steel construction, with interchangeable straps and two very different dial configurations, making this one of the most versatile watches on the market. Price: US$25,000
F.P.Journe Chronomètre Bleu
It may not look like it on the surface, but the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu is one of the most unique watches in this lineup. First, the 39mm case is made from tantalum, a metal usually reserved for special circumstances, such as complex medical implants and modern aircraft engines. It’s incredibly hard-wearing but similarly incredibly difficult to machine and, as such, is not commonly used in watchmaking. The Chronomètre Bleu uses it to its advantage, with the subtle blue tones of the case material accompanying that mirror-like dial that’s famously difficult to produce.
The manually wound 1304 movement and its hand-finished bridges are all crafted from 18k rose gold, with an overall thickness of 4mm and a 56-hour power reserve from a parallel barrel set-up delivering consistent torque. Oddly enough, there are no hacking seconds, which is perhaps this watch’s only similarity with a Seiko SKX, but I doubt anyone would be hard-pressed to complain about that given the exceptional level of finishing all around. Price: US$37,400
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
While it’s true that a manually wound chronograph is one of the “it” styles for a high-end watch, the aforementioned Reverso Chronograph doesn’t quite capture that old-school-cool aesthetic with its reversing case. The Cornes de Vache from Vacheron Constantin, on the other hand, absolutely does. Its name hints to the year of its inspiration, and apart from its 38.5mm case diameter, you could almost mistake it for the reference 6087 that inspired it.
While the 1955 original was powered by the Valjoux 23-based Calibre 492, the modern Cornes de Vache uses another legendary movement as its base – the Lemania 2310. Instead of just modifying a base calibre, however, Vacheron Constantin produces the renamed 1142 movement in-house, with a 21,600vph beat rate, 48-hour power reserve, and a column wheel and lateral clutch. Price: starting from US$47,600 (steel)
Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135
When I first wrote this round-up some time ago, I was cursing the fact that Zenith still hasn’t released a modern version of their legendary Calibre 135. The movement is a legend, and not just in Zenith’s ranks. Someone must’ve heard my prayers (or I’m giving myself a bit too much credit), as Zenith graced us with the G.F.J. Calibre 135 for Watches and Wonders 2025. Right off the bat, the platinum case with a three-material dial consisting of lapis, dyed mother of pearl, and guilloché is stunning, but it’s really what’s around the back that makes this watch what it is.
This is that legendary movement I mentioned, but upgraded with 32 additional hours of power reserve for a total of 72. It still beats at a slow 2.5Hz, with that big balance featuring a Breguet overcoil, just like the original. The decoration is actual guilloché, similar to the basketweave pattern that’s become quite commonplace, but arranged slightly differently – Zenith describing it as being inspired by the bricks of its Le Locle manufacture. Price: US$49,900
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day ref. 5328G-001
The 8 Day might not be the first Calatrava that jumps to mind when hearing the name, but this WWG 2025 release is nonetheless impressive. The case hallmarks are there, with sharp, angled lugs breaking up the hobnailed mid-case, and even the grained dial fits into the more recent Calatrava design language. With a 41mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness, it might not match the usual dressy expectations, but the real highlight here is the movement.
As its name suggests, the Calatrava 8 Day sports a movement with an eight-day power reserve, with two series-coupled barrels delivering the promised autonomy. The truth is actually a bit more impressive than that, as the power delivery provides enough torque during those first eight days to guarantee “perfectly accurate operation”, according to Patek, with a ninth day of power reserve outlined in red on the dial, indicating it may not run to the standard you expect from a high-end Patek. Price: US$70,700
A Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down
A headliner in the Lange family, the Up/Down was released in 2012 to particular amazement. The stunning flyback chronograph from Glashütte is now available in white gold, measuring in at 41mm in diameter. Sitting proudly at the top of the dial is the traditional Lange big date, a complication that took an additional 60 components to accomplish in this signature style.
This is all part of the incredible manually wound movement L951.6, which can be seen when flipping the watch over. It’s an orchestral composition of some of the most finely finished levers and rockers found in a wristwatch, all rising in a crescendo when the chronograph pusher is pressed. If you needed any more proof of its pedigree, a certain Philippe Dufour is particularly fond of this watch, owning a pink gold example, and calling it “the best chronograph movement ever made”. Price: US$131,000
Romain Gauthier Logical One
Despite his immaculate hand-finishing and penchant for revitalising ancient complications, Romain Gauthier remains fairly underappreciated in the wider collecting circles. The Logical One is perhaps the watch that best shows off his capabilities, delivering constant torque via a fusée-and-chain. Whether it’s the tiny parts making up the chain, the fine fan-like brushing of the steel components, or the frosting and rounded anglage of the bridges, not even a highly magnifying loupe would betray the Logical One’s decoration.
Furthermore, the Romain Gauthier manufacture prides itself on producing a staggering number of components in-house, including highly sophisticated ones like the hairspring and balance wheel. Now, the Logical One is not wound like any other watch on this list, as the crown at 2 o’clock is only used to set the time. Instead, depressing the pusher at 9 o’clock winds the chain onto the snail cam – that’s hand-winding, right? Price: CHF 148,000 (~US$175,000)