10 of the best manually wound watches, from cheap and cheerful dailies to the downright avant-garde
Borna BošnjakIf you’re anything like me, part of the enjoyment of watches is setting aside a bit of time to wind and set them. Bonus points for perfectly synchronising all of the seconds hands as well – but that could be just me. While automatic movements are undoubtedly more appropriate for someone with a one-watch collection, there is still that innate charm that makes these ancient bits of technology that we still use that much more appealing. You’ll also often hear that hand-wound watches are the choice of the purists, and while I mostly disagree with that statement, I will back the fact that there’s nothing quite like an exquisitely decorated movement unobstructed by a rotor (unless we’re talking micro-rotors, of course). Here are some of the best manually wound watches available today.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
There is no better way to start a list of the best hand-wound watches than with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. Ask any watch nerd what entry level watch you should look at, and chances are, it’ll be this one. Whether it’s the 1960s aesthetics, mid-size case, approachable price – or all three – it’s difficult to find much to complain about this cult classic. Movement-wise, it’s powered by the Hamilton H-50 movement, essentially a rotorless variant of Swatch Group’s mighty Powermatic 80 line-up, offering the weekend-proof, 80-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. Price: starting from US$595, available from the T+T Shop
Furlan Marri Disco Volante
Though early disco volante models emerged in the 1930s, the space-age aesthetic really came to prominence in the 1960s. Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante could fit into any of the aforementioned decades stylistically, while offering a bit of retrofuturism with its green-glowing luminescent dial pattern. With a 38mm x 38mm case, it’ll wear like the smooth pebble that it is, but the real treat here is actually the movement.
Furlan Marri chose the old-school Peseux 7001 for its slimness, but also for its ability to transform into something beautiful. The redesigned and hand-bevelled bridges are a rarity at the price point of the Disco Volante, and the sunray-finished wheels are just a plus. Price: US$2,780, available from the T+T Shop
Omega Speedmaster Professional
In today’s society, convenience is often key, hence why a lot of the watches that become the most popular are automatic. There is one distinct outlier, and one we can’t omit – the Omega Speedmaster Professional. A fan-favourite among collectors, enthusiasts and the general public alike, the Speedmaster is a manually wound watch that still captures imaginations today.
The Calibre 3861 is METAS-certified, with a Daniels Co-Axial escapement, and boasts a 50-hour power reserve – and it’s not as delicate as some might have you think. As I’m sure you know, the Speedmaster passed the rigorous tests that NASA put it through to take it to the Moon, so I’m sure it can manage your daily journey to the water cooler. Unlikely to ever fade away, the Speedmaster will always be the people’s favourite manual watch. Price: starting from US$6,600
Grand Seiko SLGW003
Lately, Grand Seiko has been getting all the plaudits for its many nature-inspired dials. In the past, however, the Japanese powerhouse relied on chronometer-grade, high-beat movements as its main claim to fame. For the longest time, however, the brand just didn’t have a 5Hz, hand-wound movement in its arsenal, but that changed at Watches and Wonders 2024, with the new Evolution 9 SLGW003. Surprisingly, this one doesn’t have a nickname yet – Manual Birch, anyone? Doesn’t quite roll off the tongue, does it? Whatever the GS fandom decides to call it, the Brilliant Hard Titanium case and vertical birch dial pattern are hard to look past, but once you do, you’re greeted by something just as good.
The new 9SA4 calibre completely fills out the display caseback, and is well-decorated for the price point. Razor-thin bevels surround the wide plates, while all the screws and jewels are set in polished countersinks, contrasting against the finely striped backdrop. The specs are not to be scoffed at either, as the 9SA4 beats at the aforementioned 5Hz, with an 80-hour power reserve and stated accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. Price: US$10,700
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
You think JLC, you think of the Reverso. It was originally designed with polo players in mind, letting them flip the front facing dial over to an often ornately decorated, yet protective back side. Things have moved on, and now the Reverso is rarely considered a sports watch, becoming a common choice for dressier occasions. With the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, you actually get two watches in one with the front featuring a simple, two-handed blue sunburst dial, while the rear dial shows off the skeletonised chronograph.
The watch is powered by the manufacture Calibre 860, a complex, manually wound, retrograde chronograph, compressed into a tiny package just 5.44mm thick, which is impressive considering the sheer number of functions. Overall, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is beautifully finished in its classically rectangular stainless steel construction, with interchangeable straps and two very different dial configurations, making this one of the most versatile watches on the market. Price: US$25,000
F.P.Journe Chronomètre Bleu
It may not look like it on the surface, but the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu is one of the most unique watches in this line up. First, the 39mm case is made from tantalum, a metal usually reserved for special circumstances, such as complex medical implants and modern aircraft engines. It’s incredibly hard-wearing and as such, not commonly used in watchmaking. The Chronomètre Bleu uses it to its advantage, with the subtle blue tones of the case material accompanying that mirror-like dial that’s famously difficult to produce.
The manually wound 1304 movement and its hand-finished bridges are all crafted from 18k rose gold, with an overall thickness of 4mm and a 56 hour power reserve from a parallel barrel set-up delivering consistent torque. Oddly enough, there are no hacking seconds, which is perhaps this watch’s only similarity with a Seiko SKX, but I doubt anyone would be hard-pressed to complain about that given the exceptional level of finishing all-round. Price: US$37,400
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
While it’s true that a manually wound chronographs is one of the “it” styles for a high-end watch, the aforementioned Reverso Chronograph doesn’t quite capture that old-school-cool aesthetic with its reversing case. The Cornes de Vache from Vacheron Constantin, on the other hand, absolutely does. Its name hints to the year of its inspiration, and apart from its 38.5mm case diameter, you could almost mistake it for the reference 6087 that inspired it.
While the 1955 original was powered by the Valjoux 23-based Calibre 492, the modern Cornes de Vache uses another legendary movement as its base – the Lemania 2310. Instead of just modifying a base calibre, however, Vacheron Constantin produces the renamed 1142 movement in-house, with a 21,600vph beat rate, 48-hour power reserve, and a column wheel and lateral clutch. Price: starting from US$47,600 (steel)
A Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down
A headliner in the Lange family, the Up/Down released in 2012 to particular amazement. The stunning flyback chronograph from Glashütte is now available in white gold, measuring in at 41mm in diameter. Sitting proudly at the top of the dial is the traditional Lange big date, a complication that took an additional 60 components to accomplish in this signature style.
This is all part of the incredible manually wound movement L951.6 which can be seen when flipping the watch over. It’s an orchestral composition of some of the most finely finished levers and rockers found in a wristwatch, all rising in a crescendo when the chronograph pusher is pressed. If you needed any more proof of its pedigree, a certain Philippe Dufour is particularly fond of this watch, owning a pink gold example, and calling it “the best chronograph movement ever made”. Price: US$131,000
Romain Gauthier Logical One
Despite his immaculate hand-finishing and penchant for revitalising ancient complications, Romain Gauthier remains fairly underappreciated in the wider collecting circles. The Logical One is perhaps the watch that best shows off his capabilities, delivering constant torque via a fusée-and-chain. Whether it’s the tiny parts making up the chain, the fine fan-like brushing of the steel components, or the frosting and rounded anglage of the bridges, not even a highly magnifying loupe would betray the Logical One’s decoration.
Furthermore, the Romain Gauthier manufacture prides itself on producing a staggering number of components in-house, including highly sophisticated ones like the hairspring and balance wheel. Now, the Logical One is not wound like any other watch on this list, as the crown at 2 o’clock is only used to set the time. Instead, depressing the pusher at 9 o’clock winds the chain onto the snail cam – that’s hand-winding, right? Price: CHF 148,000 (~US$175,000)
Patek Philippe 5204G
They don’t call these Grand Complications for nothing. The 5204G is the most complicated watch in this line up as far as the number of complications goes, with a long list of features. First, it’s a split-seconds chronograph, with day and date, moonphase, and a perpetual calendar with day/night indications too. The 40mm case is generously proportioned and fashioned from white gold, and it’s a relatively thick watch at 14.3mm. However, it deserves a pass considering what it is and the punch it packs. The olive green sunburst dial is on-trend without being distasteful, and delivers a lot of information while remaining relatively uncluttered and balanced.
All this, and it is indeed unable to wind itself, but of course, you don’t hide a movement as beautiful as the hand-finished (and long-windedly named) CH 29-535 PS Q with a large rotor. Using the 5204G is an event, and winding it a task which I’m sure will not seem too arduous. Price: US$336,890