The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pinkFergus Nash
While Speake-Marin’s established catalogue has been upheaved in the last couple of years with their integrated-bracelet Ripples watches, their boutique and nuanced past is still being captured with select models like the Academic Black Tie using their Piccadilly case. With the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink, technical sportiness gets merged with both tradition and vibrant whimsy to create a truly unique watch.
The watch case which led Speake-Marin to highly-exclusive fame is called the Piccadilly. Named for the English origins of the brand’s founder, the shape uses a contemporary approach to represent an almost regal opulence. It’s easy to imagine this on the wrist of royalty thanks to the stepped bezel, slightly-flared sides and the blocky lugs forming an ornate silhouette that feels almost jewellery-like. Modernising the look further is a glossy black DLC coating which contrasts the pink accents and still offers a great amount of luxurious sheen.
The case is made from grade 5 titanium which is almost half the weight of stainless steel for a breezy wearing experience in summer, and the DLC coating also protects the metal from picking up any scratches. An interesting factor is that the case is available in two sizes, either 38mm or 42mm. This doesn’t just offer more versatile wearability depending on your wrist size, but the two sizes have slightly different personalities. Because the dial remains the same on both models, the diameter expansion is solely in the case. The bezel in the larger model has an extra step and rehaut space that intensifies the industrial characteristics.
Pink can be a divisive colour for watch dials, ranging from the hype-driving and popular salmon tones to the hot pinks more associated with Barbie. The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is specifically labelled as Pantone 700 C, which is a mouthwatering shade of bubblegum. The matte finish on the pink background, subdials and hands contributes to a sense of soft pastels, which will undoubtedly evoke the treat of musk sticks if you’re an Australian. Its pairing with the black elements of the dial stops the watch from going too far into fluffy territory, and highlights a more masculine relationship with pinkness.
On a technical design note, the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink embraces a balance between visual complexity and ease of legibility. At 1 o’clock, there’s a running seconds subdial which is enclosed by a retrograde date display. At 8 o’clock, a larger aperture is opened up to a skeletonised 24-hour indicator, which mirrors the skeletonised window at 5 o’clock. That last window doesn’t have any practical function, but offers a glimpse into the mainspring and the train of wheels. The elaborate hands harken back to the pocket watch era, and traditional hour markers have been removed in favour of simplifying the dial.
A black bracelet just wouldn’t fit the vibe of the summery freshness of the Dual Time Pink, so of course, the watch is paired with a colour-matched Pantone 700 C rubber strap. Its soft texture mirrors the matte pastel nature of the dial, and the branding on the strap’s underside helps to create a few air pockets for air and sweat to escape in hotter weather. It’s quite thick towards the watch, with a harsh slope making the strap’s excess easier to slip into the DLC-coated titanium buckle and be retained by the twin loops.
Powering the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is the SMA02, visible from its skeletonised dial features and the sapphire display caseback. The view from the back isn’t quite as dramatic as the one from the front, going for a slightly traditional appearance with a decorated three-quarter plate. Hints of modernity are scattered throughout the pink-engraved details, as well as an intricate pink design on the back of the automatic micro-rotor. Its specifications have been upgraded over the years, now beating at a smooth 4Hz across a generous power reserve of 52 hours.
Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink pricing and availability
The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is limited to just 10 pieces in the 38mm size, and 28 pieces at 42mm for a total of 38 pieces. Price: CHF 34,500 (38mm), CHF 34,900 (42mm)
|Model||Dual Time Pink|
|Case Dimensions||38mm (D) or 42mm (D), 12.35mm (T)|
|Case Material||Grade 5 titanium|
|Water Resistance||3 bar|
|Dial||Openworked, Pantone 700 C pink|
|Movement||Calibre SMA02, micro-rotor automatic|
|Power Reserve||52 hours|
|Functions||Hours, minutes, small seconds, retrograde date, second time zone|
|Price||CHF 34,500 (38mm)
CHF 34,900 (42mm)