Fergus Nash, Author at Time and Tide Watches

Fergus Nash

Posts by Fergus:

Brown cordovan leather watch strap, Omega Speedmaster

01.08.2020

5 watches that look good on any strap

It's no secret that watches are expensive items. Whether it's a $100 quartz Seiko or a $10,000 Rolex, you're always trying to get the most for your money. By far the easiest way to eke out some extra value is to get a good collection of straps, so you can easily match your watch to certain occasions, or just change up its personality with some alternate colours. But not every watch is created equal. Certain hallmarks help timepieces be even more versatile than the rest. Uncomplicated designs, monochromatic themes, well shaped lugs and even-numbered lug widths will all ensure your…

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30.07.2020

The Modifier's Series – Bamford Watch Department, the big dog in the modding space

When browsing through high-contrast, black-coated, neon-highlighted luxury watches, it shouldn't be too long before the name Bamford crosses your path. The origin story of the Bamford Watch Department starts with a Daytona. Taking advantage of his father's corporation, JCB — which specialises in manufacturing equipment for construction, agriculture, waste handling, and demolition — George Bamford wanted nothing more than for his Rolex Daytona to stand out a little more. After consulting with JCB's engineering department, George had his Daytona murdered-out in the Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating, which has become one of his signatures, adorning customised Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe watches…

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ceramic bezels

29.07.2020

The democratisation of ceramic bezels is complete, you can now buy one for $10

It's been the case for centuries. Pioneers of industry pour plenty into R&D, stretching themselves thin to find that one small breakthrough that will separate them from the rest. It's hard to imagine a modern TV without YouTube connectivity, a modern car without ABS, or a modern phone without the world at your fingertips, but once upon a time, features such as ceramic bezels were reserved for the upper echelon of luxury goods. Now, you've got yourself a nice new Seiko 5 Sports, and you feel like snazzing it up a bit with a ceramic bezel. Hop on eBay, browse…

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26.07.2020

Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000

Legends are made quickly in the microbrand world. In the case of the Halios Seaforth Bronze, news of its popularity could barely keep up with the speed at which it sold out, and while rumours of a second production run have been teased since January, second-hand Seaforths in bronze have been selling for more than their prior RRP. Not to be outshone, the French emerging mainstay Baltic have released their own bronze-cased, 200M, time-only watch, dripping in vintage character and with similarly perfect proportions. While these two watches are by no means clones of each other, no doubt they'll be…

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21.07.2020

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner?

Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland's finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega's crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with mesmerising good-looks intrinsically linked to having the utmost legibility under the waves. 2017 saw a revamped edition of the Seamaster 300, Omega's famed 1957 release that has become an all-time classic. Last year saw the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional reach a staggering 10,929m underwater,…

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CODE41 X41 AeroCarbon

20.07.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet CODE41 and their X41 AeroCarbon, this is a Swiss brand with big ambitions

When you think of microbrands, a clear picture starts to form in your mind pretty quickly. A vintage-inspired diver, powered by a Japanese NH35 movement, perhaps? Not only is this formula wildly successful, it's become somewhat of a trope. Its popularity is justified, and it's a wonderful way to bring fresh blood into the watchmaking world, however it perpetuates the notion that innovative, technical achievements in both design and function are reserved for the mighty brands with wealth to spare and centuries of experience. CODE41 are here to reassure us that trends aren't taking over the industry, and there is…

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2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection

14.07.2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus

From A. Lange & Söhne, we've learned never to predict what might be next. In this clip from our Watch Fair & Chill coverage of Watches & Wonders 2020, you'll see exactly what we mean. When a wristwatch can cost as much as a house or a McLaren supercar, there are a certain amount of bells and whistles you want to see. With the German masters' Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in white gold, there may not be bells, but you can see the aggressively sculpted hammers striking the snaking gongs in an ingeniously simple way. Instead of ringing the hours, quarters,…

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B&R BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM

04.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The B&R BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out

When it comes to tool watches, there are few brands out there as dedicated to instrument aesthetics as Bell & Ross. Although they may lack centuries of heritage, starting off in the early '90s with Sinn making their watches, they've endeavoured not to be left behind in the everlasting race for technological advancement in watchmaking. Combining their ubiquitous cockpit-instrument inspired case design with their expansion into dive watches, Bell & Ross have brought out the B&R BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM, a timepiece that truly looks like it was pulled from the cluster of a nuclear submarine. Of course, the focal…

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Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961

04.07.2020

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price

There's very little that hasn't been done in watchmaking. That's part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido's Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the line between vintage and modern quite conservatively. The new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 smashes that established model by going back to Mido's mid-century cult classic, the Powerwind "Rainbow" diver. This isn't just a one-for-one reissue, as many brands would be tempted to make.…

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Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313

01.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver

This year appears to be Year of the Luminor for Panerai. Having redefined the warranty with the lavishly lumed and 3D printed PAM01117, the introduction of the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313 sees a bit more restraint return, with classic Luminor design cues but a similarly luscious blue sunburst dial. With its technologically impressive three-day movement, and price tag to match, this Luminor Marina straddles the line between work and play better than many previous attempts. Though, to be fair, recent years have seen the brand separate the two – granting dressier dials like this. As far as dressy divers go,…

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Bremont ALT1-P2 JET

28.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you're looking for

Aviation is the pinnacle of human endeavour. The simple dream of wanting to fly has allowed the very best engineers, scientists, artists, and countless other professionals to flex their talents and serve Earth's globalisation. Adventure and ingenuity go hand-in-hand when it comes to flying, and so too does it go with Bremont. The English-bred company may have only just reached adulthood at 18 years, though their catalogue has consistently shown a respectable mix of design intrigue and maturity. When considering the future of flying, most people will think of greener, more economical passenger planes, perhaps even reusable rockets that will…

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Grand Seiko SBGH279

28.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH279 with brushed granite-grey dial is a total smokeshow

Grand Seiko's growing reputation over the last few years has been because of three main factors — outstanding quality, mind-boggling value for money, and the most refreshingly expressive dials. As such, it's not often one of these uniquely dialled watches flies under the radar upon release, but that's exactly what the SBGH279 aims to do. With equal parts smoky handsomeness and restraint, Grand Seiko's Heritage collection has received a new subtle standout. Instant amazement may not be your initial response to the SBGH279. Its dial hasn't pioneered any new technologies, nor has it recontextualised time-honoured techniques, or reflected any natural…

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Grand Seiko SBGJ237 grand seiko SBGJ239

22.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, two terrific GMTs with lovely lume

Looking at these two Grand Seiko GMTs, it's easy to see how the world has changed from the time when the complication was invented. What began as an essential tool for pilots crossing the skies with a priority on legibility and simplicity has evolved into a different artform altogether. This centres around the creative, and aesthetically pleasing combination of two colours on the bezel. Grand Seiko has furthered this trope with specific attention to the way this code plays out on the bezel when both the sun and moon are in the sky. The colour scheme chosen by Grand Seiko…

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2020 Cartier collection

20.06.2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 Cartier collection

There are hundreds of emotions that flood through you when looking at a Cartier watch. Authentic historical contributions to aviation timekeeping, coupled with more than 170 years in the jewellery industry, shrouds the French name in an air of romance, adventure and audacious style. With few models is this truer than the Santos-Dumont, originally designed in 1904 for the brave pilot of the same name, and revived in 2019 in an ultra-thin case echoing the century-old designs more accurately than previous Santos models. Although the SIHH release was an undisputed hit, perhaps the only drawback was the quartz movement, lacking…

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14.06.2020

The Modifier's Series: Wildman NYC by name, wild man of modding by nature

A little variety in life goes a long way. Nobody wants to see roads full of the same car, or hear the same three songs over and over in shopping centres, so why shouldn't this apply to watches? London-based modifiers Wildman are being the change they want to see in this global movement of super-custom timepieces, where no colour combination is too bold and there's no shame in having your own initials on the dial. Whether a custom order, or part of their collection full of limited editions, the smallest changes can have the biggest impacts on watches that may…

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11.06.2020

How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever

When I had my great-grandfather's 1958 Omega Seamaster restored, I was convinced that I'd never wear, or need another watch again. It looked great, performed fantastically, and I had a personal connection to it that just didn't exist for anything else. But as my interest in watches and time spent researching them grew, it was inevitable I'd realise I wasn't a one-watch guy. Rather irresponsibly, I settled on another Seamaster for my next watch. Specifically, a 2008 Planet Ocean (PO) with the caliber 2500C co-axial movement. It was robust — I didn't need to worry about it when washing my…

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10.06.2020

"Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself," says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection

"I haven't read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches," IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. "I just very much hope you haven't got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears them in all the other movies." To which I point out, as gently as possible – because we have indeed got Jason Statham wearing precisely that watch – that Jason appears to be a Richemont man, with many other notable Panerai watches worn in multiple…

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01.06.2020

A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much

Jaeger-LeCoultre's 2020 Collection is their best in years Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Control collection has long been a benchmark for subtlety in the execution of style, with each movement, from simple three handers to chronograph calendars, being the definition of art meets mechanics. In 2020's online edition of the Watches & Wonders fair, the Swiss maestros unveiled their updated collection, heightening their already lofty charm and value for money with contemporary touches. Combing finely through that detail is phenom Sandra Lane, who called into our Watch Fair & Chill breakdown from her leafy lockdown in New Zealand to explain exactly why these…

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DOXA SUB 300T

13.05.2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 300T, the dive watch icon that takes you 1200m deep for less than $2000USD

A helium release valve will never stop confusing people. What does it do? How does it work? Do I need one when snorkelling, or free-diving on holiday? The answer to that last question is a firm no, and, to prove it, DOXA have reinvented their own 1969 SUB 300T — the first consumer-grade dive watch to include the famous HRV — without one. DOXA use this iconic model to celebrate 50 years of technological advancement by showcasing what breathtaking depths a standard screw-down watch case can achieve. Purists can relax, though. In nearly every other way an authentic reproduction of…

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Chopard Mille Miglia

07.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways

For their spring novelty releases this year, Chopard have reinvigorated two of their most popular collections: the Mille Miglia and the L.U.C families. We are offered something for everyone, with the more refined L.U.C collection featuring attractive new perpetual calendar references with tastefully balanced dial proportions and a beautifully decorated movement, while the sportiness of the gentleman driver comes across in the Mille Miglia collection, this year with an azzurro motif. Let's take a closer look at what's new. L.U.C Perpetual Twin Getting a makeover this year are two new models in the L.U.C 'Complications' family, using the same in-house…

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2020 Panerai collection

05.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life

We often hear that mechanical watches last forever when given the love and attention they require. That's part of the reason why they can command such high price tags, and even more in the long run when you factor in a service every five years, give or take. But really, we all know that a watch is subject to just as much wear and tear as anything else — metal scratches, rubber perishes, things break. Warranties can give some small peace of mind within the typical two to five year window, but what if you knew for certain that your…

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2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection

03.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch

It takes an iron will to walk past an A. Lange & Söhne dealer without losing a few minutes of your day. The German masters ensure their collections soar above the competition, bewitching onlookers and dominating wish-lists around the world. If you're lucky, dead in the centre of the captivating display will be a Zeitwerk Minute Repeater — the 'digital' watch that redefined the holy grail of complications. Now, to celebrate five years since its launch, A. Lange & Söhne have created a limited edition of 30 Zeitwerk Minute Repeaters with a striking blue dial and white gold case. If…

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A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus white gold

27.04.2020

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne's Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow

A. Lange & Söhne don't always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand's brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of water resistant, blue-dialled steel watches with an integrated bracelet. But in typically Lange fashion, it added nigh-on incomparable levels of engineering. The push buttons alone, hidden inside the gently sloping crown guard and used to advance the sophisticated day and date wheels, mark out the…

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26.04.2020

10 watches from Montblanc's 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain

When Richemont acquired Minerva to pair with Montblanc to fast-track legitimacy for their watchmaking division, some scoffed at the audacity. Taking a respected, historical watchmaker and giving their patents to a pen brand seemed like horological heresy at the time; however, Montblanc's commitment to continuing Minerva's legacy only grows more apparent with each subsequent year of new releases. Burgeoning respect from all, even the naysayers, is happening. For 2020's online edition of Watches & Wonders, Montblanc have updated their collections to include 10 novel designs, ranging from subtle dial changes to bombastic antique re-imaginings. Heritage Collection While Montblanc's 21st century…

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20.04.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing Marnaut, the sub-$1k 300m dive watch with the sea urchin dot-pattern dial

Mario Jutronic's marine-themed microbrand Marnaut is a breath of fresh ocean air. It was beginning to seem impossible that a retro-flavoured dive watch could bring anything new to the table, but one glimpse at a Marnaut dial and you must admit they've found a way. Having spent a large portion of his youth snorkelling around the Adriatic Sea, Croatian entrepreneur and watch collector Mario Jutronic decided that his own brand needed to break away from the endlessly recycled designs in the diving world. His solution? Evoking the strikingly symmetrical holes in a Sea Urchin's exoskeleton by arranging no less than…

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timex marlin

06.04.2020

The pointy end of the Timex revival, a short history of the breakout Marlin collection

When it comes to celebrity endorsements, Patrick Swayze's sixth cousin once removed John Cameron Swayze is simply not modern watch brand ambassador material. A news anchor and game show host during the '40s and '50s, Chris Hemsworth he wasn't. The 1960s, however, was the perfect era for Swayze to take to timepiece advertisements. Whether being caught mid-air by a trained dolphin, or held in the hand of a free-falling diver jumping off the edge of Acapulco's cliffs in Mexico, Timex watches were the action-bearing beaters of their day. And, in a move that predates similar 'torture tests' by over 60…

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Artisans De Genève

03.04.2020

The Modifier's Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far

Editor's note: 'Modding' a watch is not a trend in watchmaking, it is a trope. It has, and always will be, a part of the watchmaking and watch-wearing world as companies and individuals seek to personalise and individualise watches. A uniquely modified watch becomes more of a statement. And it offers an alternative to a 'Piece Unique', one-off watch. This story is the first in 'The Modifier's Series', which looks at the main players in the modding game. Coming up, MAD, Bamford and more… For so many of us, Rolex — for all of its flaws — remains the pinnacle of the…

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Sinn EZM 12

01.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The Sinn EZM 12, a German Design Award-winning watch for the sanitary conscious

Editor's note: When this landed in our inbox with imagery of surgical scrubs, a soapy petri dish and a headline along the lines of 'finally, a super-hygienic watch for medical personnel', we recoiled. It seemed opportunistic, given the obsession the world currently has with personal — and professional — hygiene. So I called a few friends who work at a hospital. An orderly, a doctor, a surgeon. I asked them what they thought. They all wanted to know more. What makes the watch less prone to contamination? I realised quickly that this was a review worth sharing. There was no sense from…

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DOXA Sub 200

31.03.2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200

DOXA's revival is something easily missed if you're not paying close attention. Vintage-inspired or re-issued dive watches aren't exactly selling for double the retail price due to lack of supply, but this DOXA SUB 200 isn't just another trendy microbrand with an aesthetic and a good marketing team. When determining the legacy of a watchmaker, the first place to look is their innovations. With DOXA, you don't need to look far. For instance, the first unidirectional diving bezel in 1957, already a home run for the brand without taking into account their collaboration with Rolex in developing the first ever…

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Grand Seiko SLGH002

24.03.2020

Grand Seiko ups the ante – on itself – with the SLGH002, where classic meets cutting edge

Seiko is a brand that is well accustomed to competing with itself. Both to raise the bar for the brand's watches, and for the betterment of the global watch industry. From the revolution of bringing quartz-powered movements to the masses, to embarrassing the Swiss at their own Chronometer Trials, the intrepid Japanese pioneers can seem to be their own sole competition. With each generation, Seiko and all of its divisions, Grand Seiko chief among them, stop at nothing to self-improve, find new innovations, and stun the watch world. The trend continues in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition,…

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Yema watches

23.03.2020

Everything you need to know about French brand Yema watches, and their four key models

If you didn't spend much time diving in the Azure Seas in coastal France in the late '60s, chances are you may not be entirely familiar with the French brand Yema. With its most popular models having a subdued appearance, and not featuring 'Swiss Made' plastered all over the dial, it can be easy for the eye to wander past their offerings and settle on something with a much older name. Those who love to feel their heart lurch when seeing the price tag of a flashy piece won't find that same pleasure with the competitive costs on display here,…

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16.03.2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1500T

Within DOXA's lineup of tributes to its 1967-born icon, the SUB 300, the SUB 1500T poses the burning question none of us knew we were asking: What if it could go even deeper? Because one of the most self-sabotaging misnomers the watch industry has ever seen is this: the Doxa SUB 300T hints at only one-quarter of the truth. It can, in fact, go 1200 metres deep. The original SUB 300 (no T) from 1967 was thinner and was true to its name, but the 300T continues to sell itself short with its name. As as it turns out, not…

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William Wood The Red Watch

09.03.2020

HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch

Emerging watchmakers face the near-Sisyphean task of standing out in a sea of low-budget options all vying for market dominance and social media influence. When William Wood's founder Jonny Garrett launched a crowdfunding campaign to commemorate his grandfather's heroics in the British Fire Service, the passion in the story clearly resonated with the thousands of pledgers who wanted to make these watches a reality. In 2020, William Wood's 'Valiant Collection' seeks to continue the tribute to the man himself and fire fighters around the world, all the while being stylish enough to pass under the radar as daily wear. At…

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Omega Seamaster

04.03.2020

Restoring my Great-Grandfather's Omega Seamaster

We all have those knick-knacks lying around that get forgotten. Dried-up sharpies, matchboxes, and screwdrivers are the common offenders in my household, however there had always been one outlier. A small, unassuming wristwatch had been sitting in an antique drawer for at least 20 years. Freshly into my 20s, I landed a job that meant I couldn't have my phone on me for the length of the shift, and there was hardly a clock in sight. I had the very new issue of a watch being a necessity, so I went and found the cheapest watch I could get. After…

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