Fergus Nash, Author at Time and Tide Watches

Fergus Nash

Posts by Fergus:

MAD Paris

31.12.2020

The Modifier’s Series: MAD Paris are radical, edgy and utterly subversive

Let’s all just close our eyes for a moment and imagine the perfect watch. It would surely need to be something versatile, simple, but with plenty of well-finished details that will brighten your mood with every glance at the dial. A bit of history wouldn’t go astray either, knowing that, while trends may come and go, your watch will remain a timeless classic. That’s what an old-fashioned horology nut would say anyway. Whereas MAD Paris know that the true perfect watch is whatever the client thinks looks cool. Halving water resistance, destroying the original warranty … there is no cost…

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Fergus’ 3 favourite watches of 2020

19.12.2020

LIST: Fergus’ 3 favourite watches of 2020

Editor’s note: Despite the challenges that we have all faced in 2020, the watch manufacturers of the world have still managed to turn out a very decent crop of new releases this year. For Fergus, though, there were three standout pieces that we’ll take a closer look at here. Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer There aren’t many words to describe this watch that fit better than plain old ‘fun’. It’s a diver, with all the specifications you could ask for from such a weekend warrior, making it beg for adventures to be had and fond memories to be formed. Although…

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TAG Heuer Monaco on bracelet

15.12.2020

HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof

TAG Heuer’s Monaco has experienced a rather slow evolution in recent years, as the world’s most famous square watch shouldn’t be messed with too much. The new black dial TAG Heuer Monaco on bracelet is a further exploration into the watch’s roots, while keeping up to date with all the technical quality we expect from a modern luxury wristwatch. The good news: it’s simply great. The bracelet The particular star of the show on this model is the vintage-style bracelet, inspired by examples often found on models from the mid-to-late ’70s. The solid steel links are quite short, allowing for…

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Omega Seamaster

13.12.2020

LIST: Fergus Nash’s 5 favourite articles of 2020

This year has held a lot of change for almost everyone who populates this planet. Some people have been able to take positives out of their respective lockdown experiences, free-time opportunities, or even just spending more time with those immediately around you. But ultimately I don’t believe anyone could say that it has been easy. For me, among other things, 2020 was the year I joined Time+Tide. This involved its challenges, as I’ve only been a watch enthusiast for about two years now, and I’ve had to learn fast. Being lent the occasional new watch to review was, of course,…

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08.12.2020

IN-DEPTH: The history of the Hublot MECA-10 Movement

It’s not breaking any boundaries to say that Hublot is a relatively young brand, and that they’re not at all cheap. If you’re someone who insists that their watches have 200-plus years of history behind them with classic proportions and traditional construction methods, Hublot isn’t for you. If, however, you want lines crossed, bold moves taken, and innovation, then the Porthole brand has much to offer. There are few better examples of this than the in-house Hublot MECA-10 movement, with each of its 223 components epitomising modern-day luxury watchmaking. From a visual standpoint, Hublot’s MECA-10 is already a departure from…

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CODE41 DAY41

08.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The CODE41 DAY41 is batshit crazy (in the best possible way)

The whole idea of a microbrand is to do things differently from major watchmakers. Whether that be better bang for buck, experimenting with unusual materials, or just creating wacky designs, any taste can be catered for as long as enough interest can be found through Kickstarter. Over the years, the taste of the mainstream has crept into the micro world too, flooding the market with vintage-style dive watches powered by entry-level Japanese movements. While there’s nothing wrong with that model — in fact, some are absolutely great — CODE41 return to the original ethos of being unafraid to experiment. The DAY41 is…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic

04.12.2020

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 with its smoked-grey dial manages to be all of those things and more. The dial Although fumé dials are rising in popularity, this one is definitely a showstopper. The balance between the darker charcoal tones and the lighter wispy-cloud grey in the centre…

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IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection

29.11.2020

VIDEO: Our favourite references from the IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection

The momentum IWC generated in 2019 has continued unimpeded this year, with a slightly dressier focus. Here, we’re treated with the reinvigoration of the stoic, masculine, yet classy line in the new IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection. With the Portugieser Chronograph, IWC have stuck with their attitude of evolution over revolution, upgrading all of the regular production models with the new in-house calibre 69355 column-wheel chronograph movement — a visceral treat for the eyes when viewed through the display caseback. Three new sunburst dial variations are captivating, with the steel case offering a mossy-forest green or a rich oxblood red, and…

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best watches to get your friends into watches

26.11.2020

Do your friends think watch collecting is strange? These are the best watches to get your friends into watches

If you, like many others, stumbled across the watch collecting hobby entirely by yourself, you know that feeling of loneliness. You may spend hours perfecting a wrist shot to show off your grail purchases, incredible bargains, or vintage eBay snipes, only to have friends and family snub you by exclaiming, “You bought another watch?” Well, if you really want others to appreciate your hobby like you do, you need to give them a taste for themselves. Whether you save up for something special or gather some buddies to pitch in, these are five of the best watches to get your…

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TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition

22.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition is a red rocket for the wrist

Watch enthusiasts and automotive enthusiasts have a lot in common. It’s not just that the demographics intersect, but there is definitely a link in the appreciation for outstanding feats of engineering. Both can be artistic expressions, with form meeting function, and both can be all-out utilitarian objects with pure performance in mind. The TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is a watch that sums up one of the age-old arguments between both watches and cars: old versus new. The dial The Monaco’s classic squares-in-a-circle-in-a-square look is undeniably attractive, and the Coca-Cola style of the white centre-dial and vivid…

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Cartier Pasha service for free

20.11.2020

If you own a Cartier Pasha – second hand included – you can have it serviced by Cartier FOR FREE. Nix. Nothing.

If you’ve been looking for an excuse to buy an older Pasha de Cartier, consider this the sign. In case you missed the news, Cartier have announced that owners of any Pasha model will be eligible for a complimentary diagnosis, service, and optional engraving. You read that right, a Cartier Pasha service for free. Any model, from any year, as long as it bears that ‘love it or hate it’ diving helmet look, alongside the name Pasha. The promotion, which coincides with the French brand’s rejuvenation of the line, has somewhat gone under the radar — although that may just…

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14.11.2020

10 of the best dress watches of 2020 under $10K, including Cartier, Nomos and Longines

This year has truly separated the ones who live with dress watches from the ones who love them, as fewer opportunities to dress up formally have left many collectors leaving their simpler and more elegant pieces stashed away. But for the people who can’t get enough of their most finessed timepieces, the humble dress watch genre has been treated to some truly stunning releases, with these fantastic options some of the best dress watches of 2020 under $10K. Dan Henry 1937 Dress Chronograph If you want a more affordable and reliable alternative to the typically Landeron 47/48 powered Swiss chronographs…

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “SFTI”

11.11.2020

HANDS-ON: Aggressive, unrelenting and tactical, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “SFTI” is a tool watch lover’s dream

It should come as no surprise that IWC are the masters of the Swiss-made Flieger-style chronograph, given that they were one of the archetypal manufacturers of those watches back in the ’40s, but their ability to adapt to modern military specifications and expectations is undoubtedly an achievement. Based on an exclusive model made for the Navy Fighter Weapons School (aka TOPGUN) in 2018, this “civilian” version of the watch has been released, limited to 1500 pieces. With its matte-black tactical utility, mixture of stealth and legibility, and tasteful hints of red dropped in, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun…

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Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink

10.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink

Conversations around gender politics are mostly avoided within the watch world, for a multitude of reasons. Arguments tend to get in the way of the mutual appreciation for the hobby, just like any contentious topic, but there is a glaring problem with how most companies go about their watch marketing. Opinions aside, that absolutely anyone can wear whatever they want is a fact. Hublot have made moves towards letting the watches speak for themselves with the limited edition Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink — a watch that rides the fine line between masculinity and femininity in an attempt to be…

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best GMTs of 2020

31.10.2020

10 of the best GMTs of 2020 under 10K, including Grand Seiko, Montblanc and Yema

In a year devoid of international travel, the humble GMT complication has served little purpose other than keeping track of loved ones across the world. But when that little fourth hand forces your mind to think of another place and another time, that mental holiday can be just as rewarding. As such, 2020 has seen the release of some incredibly creative GMT watches, and here are some of the best GMTs of 2020 under $10,000 AUD. Mido Ocean Star GMT Mido’s new GMT diver just begs to be your next daily wear, with its clear, clean and capable looks being…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Automatic

21.10.2020

HANDS-ON: A poetic tribute to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Automatic

Editor’s note: Fergus Nash, the writer of this piece, is one of Time+Tide’s newest members of the writing team. Increasingly, I am finding that his point of view – rich with analogy, kaleidoscopic associations and energy – is connecting me with the watches he writes about in new ways. Not just new ways, enriching ways. Consider this piece. One of many OF Tourbillon Chronograph reviews. But I’ll wager it will be the most memorable you will read, if not just for the visual treasure map of imagery that it creates, and leaves glittering in your mind. Every now and again you’ll…

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AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M

19.10.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money

It seems like every week, another Kickstarter microbrand comes forward with its own take on a diving watch. Some of these are more successful than others, but the one certainty is that in order to stand out, companies have to increasingly think outside the box. AUDRIC Watches have done so with the home-run combination of outrageous value for money and exciting, bold design. In fact, the AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M doesn’t just take the fight to the best of the microbrand world, but challenges the greats of established Swiss names, too. The main thing to understand about the SeaBorne 500…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

06.10.2020

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is about as avant-garde as Switzerland gets

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept line can easily be not just confusing, but confounding when you first come across it. The case shape is so alien … who is it even made for? When the first Concept was released in 2002, it more resembled a piece of lab equipment from a sci-fi movie than a watch, which is a topic Andrew discussed with Michael Friedman, Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, recently in a lively Zoom call. Over the last 18 years, the Concept has undergone many changes, and, in the process the Concept enigma has deepened rather than crystallised. However,…

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watches of the 1920s

01.10.2020

Watches inspired by the 1920s — 5 watch designs from the ’20s that still roar from the wrist

Whether you’re a history buff, or just have a big budget for your costume parties, owning a historic timepiece can be a truly special experience. To identify with such an antiquated time period doesn’t just fulfil a niche curiosity in the old, but it connects us directly to a time of great innovation and exploration — aspects of watchmaking that still separate the great masters of horology to this day. As we begin the 2020s, 100 years since the decade that saw the wristwatch soar in popularity, we are celebrating by taking a look at some of the best watches…

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum

29.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver

Omega’s lines between utility and luxury are ever-blurring, and increasingly confusing to people who like to categorise watches into strict genres and tropes. The truth is, the centuries-old Swiss powerhouse is constantly proving that you can have high-performance, high-specification and high-flex wristwatches without spending anywhere near as much as the competition. More to the point: if you want one, you can actually walk into a boutique and buy one. The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum is just the latest piece of evidence that Omega’s momentum isn’t stopping anytime soon. The overall impression of the watch is far from…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

26.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration. Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch is, and they’ll say: ‘to tell the time’. Well, in the upper echelon of luxury watchmaking, this hasn’t been true for a very long time. Just as owners of supercars rarely reach their top speeds, the purpose of making a watch with absurd accuracy and…

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Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire

25.09.2020

Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire

There are few things as desperately desired in this world as the 1930’s La Voiture Noire. The long-lost Bugatti Type 57 SC Atlantic Coupe was one of just four high-specced models to be made between 1936-38, and the only one to be completely draped in black. Whether it now lies in ruins at the bottom of the ocean, or still hides away in some abandoned shed, is a constant source of fever dreams for wealthy collectors and daydreaming teenagers alike. Last year, Bugatti announced a new one-off hypercar named after ‘The Black Car’, honouring the legend of the first. Not…

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20.09.2020

The baby blue and black Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 sold out in 6 minutes, which sucks, because it’s great

The democratisation of watch modification has been sinking in for a few years, moving from diamond-encrusted Rolex watches, all the way down to swapping out a set of hands on your favourite Seiko SKX. In recent times, it’s become apparent that watch brands are trying to cover their bases and provide the unique look of a modified watch in a completely stock package. We’ve seen it with the new Seiko 5 Sport line, and we’ve seen it with Rolex reintroducing their vibrant Stella dials of the past. Even Casio aren’t immune, with the latest “Casi-Oak” being hewn from a GA2100…

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MAALS Giri Ventiquattro

14.09.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The MAALS Giri Ventiquattro is the quirkiest and most creative automotive related watch we’ve seen this year

If you’re a motoring enthusiast, you know that the glory is in the details. Few vehicle manufacturers latched onto this ethos as much as Italian companies did in the ’60s and ’70s, designing breathtaking, voluptuous bodywork, with the most luxurious interior touches. Whether it was seats, shift knobs, or the instrument cluster, everything had to be a visual feast. That way, when you put your foot to the floor, you were guaranteed a driving experience that was both beautiful and visceral. Try as they might, modern manufacturers can’t reproduce that same feeling, whether it be down to necessary safety features,…

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Undone Vintage Killy review

14.09.2020

HANDS-ON: Is the Undone Vintage Killy actually good? How could it be for under $500?

Undone are reaching a point of ubiquity in the microbrand world where it is probably prudent to have tried one on the wrist. With, of course, one prevailing question in mind – how could these watches deliver on their looks? We ordered a couple in. Because, somehow Undone seem able to keep up a huge variety in designs whilst giving each one the right amount of attention to detail, from jeans-and-tshirt divers to lavishly decorated dress pieces. Quality, intrigue, and customisability are all distinct traits of the eclectic brand, and none of that changes for their art deco-inspired chronograph, the…

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Cartier Pasha

10.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The new Cartier Pasha collection has dropped, is it time you gave Genta’s most divisive design a closer look?

My dad once told me to never spoil a good story with the facts, and that’s a sentiment that seems to be well-loved within the watch industry. Whether it’s a Rolex reaching the summit of Everest, or the friendly tale of a hiker named Daniel Wellington, every watch is made just that little bit more special knowing it has some sort of associated mythology. When it comes to Cartier, these stories are no less exciting, and quite a few of them are actually true. The origin of the Cartier Pasha, however, is a little more murky, but we’ll come to…

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Grand Seiko SBGP005

07.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist

For some, the idea of ‘luxury quartz’ is a complete contradiction. Since the decimation of the mechanical watch industry upon its widespread release, quartz movement technology has never shaken off that stigma that draws dirty looks from watch enthusiasts around the world. The truth is not as simple as a hero and villain, however. Once you start to view any innovation as valid innovation, a whole new world of appreciation opens up, and nobody innovates like Grand Seiko. The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is just more proof, and the sceptics are running out of excuses. The ever-popular 44GS case has returned,…

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Seiko SNE566P

05.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SNE566P is the new root beer in town, and it’s bigger, bolder and available to buy

Seiko in 2020 is like a bull incensed: never slowing, threatening in intent and thrilling to watch. Amongst the slew of limited editions across all of their ranges, one of the most attention-capturing is the Seiko SNE566P — a professional-grade diving watch in a sumptuous ‘root beer’ colour scheme, and available now only to Australians at a recession-friendly price. As much as Seiko is renowned for having legible dials, this particular reference is up there with the best. The indices are large and filled with Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, guaranteeing that you’ll have no trouble reading this watch in the dark.…

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Mitch Mason Chronicle

31.08.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle

Vintage field watches can be a minefield, full of mechanical issues, aftermarket parts, or just a victim of horrendous overvaluing on the likes of eBay. All of this seems to go against their original ethos, which was to be legible, reliable and able to take a beating in the outside world. Of course, as watches have become less and less practical, the aesthetics of these watches have become priorities, especially when it comes to homages or reissues. Mitch Mason’s inaugural Kickstarter for their Chronicle promises to change that, returning to a formula that aligns itself with those original tough-as-nails timepieces,…

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum

19.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum

Omega shows no signs of stopping when it comes to James Bond special editions, despite Bond showing no signs of showing up for 2020. Last year we saw the release of a Seamaster Diver 300M jam-packed with nods to 007’s heritage as a celebration of the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Now, although it’s technically been 51 years, we are treated to this spectacle, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum, which is a similar watch, lavishly cased. The spiral-dial motif is a throwback to one of the earliest Bond special editions, an SMP from 2006 celebrating the…

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Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White

17.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist

Hublot’s Big Bang series has always been slightly outrageous since its 2005 release, but intentionally so. Large, loud, and undoubtedly luxurious, there could be no better candidate for a collaboration with Maxime Plescia-Büchi. The Swiss tattooist is responsible for the sprawling platform that is Sang Bleu, covering and influencing tattoos, clothing, typography, art — both visual and performative — and much more. Our first taste of a Hublot x Sang Bleu project was in 2016, with an intricately engraved wristwatch, covered in mesmerising geometric patterns across the dial, case, and even embossed into the leather strap. 2019’s Baselword witnessed the…

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LIV P-51

10.08.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet the LIV P-51, a high-specced titanium pilot’s watch at a competitive price

LIV is a brand that cuts to the chase. Bold, chunky watches with action in mind, and the rare ability to come up with distinctly different designs while keeping its own unique identity consistent across its range. While their microbrand-standard Kickstarter business model may be quite common, their collections of watches and value propositions are anything but. One of the latest releases to be successfully crowdfunded raised $764,590USD more than its $30,000 goal, and it’s the tactical, brutish, yet stylish LIV P-51 Pilot’s chronograph in a wide high-grade titanium case. There’s no getting around it. The P-51 is a big,…

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Brown cordovan leather watch strap, Omega Speedmaster

01.08.2020

5 watches that look good on any strap

It’s no secret that watches are expensive items. Whether it’s a $100 quartz Seiko or a $10,000 Rolex, you’re always trying to get the most for your money. By far the easiest way to eke out some extra value is to get a good collection of straps, so you can easily match your watch to certain occasions, or just change up its personality with some alternate colours. But not every watch is created equal. Certain hallmarks help timepieces be even more versatile than the rest. Uncomplicated designs, monochromatic themes, well shaped lugs and even-numbered lug widths will all ensure your…

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30.07.2020

The Modifier’s Series – Bamford Watch Department, the big dog in the modding space

When browsing through high-contrast, black-coated, neon-highlighted luxury watches, it shouldn’t be too long before the name Bamford crosses your path. The origin story of the Bamford Watch Department starts with a Daytona. Taking advantage of his father’s corporation, JCB — which specialises in manufacturing equipment for construction, agriculture, waste handling, and demolition — George Bamford wanted nothing more than for his Rolex Daytona to stand out a little more. After consulting with JCB’s engineering department, George had his Daytona murdered-out in the Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating, which has become one of his signatures, adorning customised Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe watches…

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ceramic bezels

29.07.2020

The democratisation of ceramic bezels is complete, you can now buy one for $10

It’s been the case for centuries. Pioneers of industry pour plenty into R&D, stretching themselves thin to find that one small breakthrough that will separate them from the rest. It’s hard to imagine a modern TV without YouTube connectivity, a modern car without ABS, or a modern phone without the world at your fingertips, but once upon a time, features such as ceramic bezels were reserved for the upper echelon of luxury goods. Now, you’ve got yourself a nice new Seiko 5 Sports, and you feel like snazzing it up a bit with a ceramic bezel. Hop on eBay, browse…

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26.07.2020

Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000

Legends are made quickly in the microbrand world. In the case of the Halios Seaforth Bronze, news of its popularity could barely keep up with the speed at which it sold out, and while rumours of a second production run have been teased since January, second-hand Seaforths in bronze have been selling for more than their prior RRP. Not to be outshone, the French emerging mainstay Baltic have released their own bronze-cased, 200M, time-only watch, dripping in vintage character and with similarly perfect proportions. While these two watches are by no means clones of each other, no doubt they’ll be…

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21.07.2020

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner?

Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland’s finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega’s crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with mesmerising good-looks intrinsically linked to having the utmost legibility under the waves. 2017 saw a revamped edition of the Seamaster 300, Omega’s famed 1957 release that has become an all-time classic. Last year saw the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional reach a staggering 10,929m underwater,…

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CODE41 X41 AeroCarbon

20.07.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet CODE41 and their X41 AeroCarbon, this is a Swiss brand with big ambitions

When you think of microbrands, a clear picture starts to form in your mind pretty quickly. A vintage-inspired diver, powered by a Japanese NH35 movement, perhaps? Not only is this formula wildly successful, it’s become somewhat of a trope. Its popularity is justified, and it’s a wonderful way to bring fresh blood into the watchmaking world, however it perpetuates the notion that innovative, technical achievements in both design and function are reserved for the mighty brands with wealth to spare and centuries of experience. CODE41 are here to reassure us that trends aren’t taking over the industry, and there is…

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2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection

14.07.2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus

From A. Lange & Söhne, we’ve learned never to predict what might be next. In this clip from our Watch Fair & Chill coverage of Watches & Wonders 2020, you’ll see exactly what we mean. When a wristwatch can cost as much as a house or a McLaren supercar, there are a certain amount of bells and whistles you want to see. With the German masters’ Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in white gold, there may not be bells, but you can see the aggressively sculpted hammers striking the snaking gongs in an ingeniously simple way. Instead of ringing the hours, quarters,…

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B&R BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM

04.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The B&R BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out

When it comes to tool watches, there are few brands out there as dedicated to instrument aesthetics as Bell & Ross. Although they may lack centuries of heritage, starting off in the early ’90s with Sinn making their watches, they’ve endeavoured not to be left behind in the everlasting race for technological advancement in watchmaking. Combining their ubiquitous cockpit-instrument inspired case design with their expansion into dive watches, Bell & Ross have brought out the B&R BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM, a timepiece that truly looks like it was pulled from the cluster of a nuclear submarine. Of course, the focal…

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Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961

04.07.2020

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price

There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the line between vintage and modern quite conservatively. The new Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 smashes that established model by going back to Mido’s mid-century cult classic, the Powerwind “Rainbow” diver. This isn’t just a one-for-one reissue, as many brands would be tempted to make.…

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Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313

01.07.2020

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver

This year appears to be Year of the Luminor for Panerai. Having redefined the warranty with the lavishly lumed and 3D printed PAM01117, the introduction of the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313 sees a bit more restraint return, with classic Luminor design cues but a similarly luscious blue sunburst dial. With its technologically impressive three-day movement, and price tag to match, this Luminor Marina straddles the line between work and play better than many previous attempts. Though, to be fair, recent years have seen the brand separate the two – granting dressier dials like this. As far as dressy divers go,…

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Bremont ALT1-P2 JET

28.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for

Aviation is the pinnacle of human endeavour. The simple dream of wanting to fly has allowed the very best engineers, scientists, artists, and countless other professionals to flex their talents and serve Earth’s globalisation. Adventure and ingenuity go hand-in-hand when it comes to flying, and so too does it go with Bremont. The English-bred company may have only just reached adulthood at 18 years, though their catalogue has consistently shown a respectable mix of design intrigue and maturity. When considering the future of flying, most people will think of greener, more economical passenger planes, perhaps even reusable rockets that will…

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Grand Seiko SBGH279

28.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH279 with brushed granite-grey dial is a total smokeshow

Grand Seiko’s growing reputation over the last few years has been because of three main factors — outstanding quality, mind-boggling value for money, and the most refreshingly expressive dials. As such, it’s not often one of these uniquely dialled watches flies under the radar upon release, but that’s exactly what the SBGH279 aims to do. With equal parts smoky handsomeness and restraint, Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection has received a new subtle standout. Instant amazement may not be your initial response to the SBGH279. Its dial hasn’t pioneered any new technologies, nor has it recontextualised time-honoured techniques, or reflected any natural…

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best GMTs of 2020

22.06.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, two terrific GMTs with lovely lume

Looking at these two Grand Seiko GMTs, it’s easy to see how the world has changed from the time when the complication was invented. What began as an essential tool for pilots crossing the skies with a priority on legibility and simplicity has evolved into a different artform altogether. This centres around the creative, and aesthetically pleasing combination of two colours on the bezel. Grand Seiko has furthered this trope with specific attention to the way this code plays out on the bezel when both the sun and moon are in the sky. The colour scheme chosen by Grand Seiko…

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2020 Cartier collection

20.06.2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 Cartier collection

There are hundreds of emotions that flood through you when looking at a Cartier watch. Authentic historical contributions to aviation timekeeping, coupled with more than 170 years in the jewellery industry, shrouds the French name in an air of romance, adventure and audacious style. With few models is this truer than the Santos-Dumont, originally designed in 1904 for the brave pilot of the same name, and revived in 2019 in an ultra-thin case echoing the century-old designs more accurately than previous Santos models. Although the SIHH release was an undisputed hit, perhaps the only drawback was the quartz movement, lacking…

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14.06.2020

The Modifier’s Series: Wildman NYC by name, wild man of modding by nature

A little variety in life goes a long way. Nobody wants to see roads full of the same car, or hear the same three songs over and over in shopping centres, so why shouldn’t this apply to watches? London-based modifiers Wildman are being the change they want to see in this global movement of super-custom timepieces, where no colour combination is too bold and there’s no shame in having your own initials on the dial. Whether a custom order, or part of their collection full of limited editions, the smallest changes can have the biggest impacts on watches that may…

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11.06.2020

How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever

When I had my great-grandfather’s 1958 Omega Seamaster restored, I was convinced that I’d never wear, or need another watch again. It looked great, performed fantastically, and I had a personal connection to it that just didn’t exist for anything else. But as my interest in watches and time spent researching them grew, it was inevitable I’d realise I wasn’t a one-watch guy. Rather irresponsibly, I settled on another Seamaster for my next watch. Specifically, a 2008 Planet Ocean (PO) with the caliber 2500C co-axial movement. It was robust — I didn’t need to worry about it when washing my…

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10.06.2020

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection

“I haven’t read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches,” IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. “I just very much hope you haven’t got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears them in all the other movies.” To which I point out, as gently as possible – because we have indeed got Jason Statham wearing precisely that watch – that Jason appears to be a Richemont man, with many other notable Panerai watches worn in multiple…

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01.06.2020

A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 Collection is their best in years Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has long been a benchmark for subtlety in the execution of style, with each movement, from simple three handers to chronograph calendars, being the definition of art meets mechanics. In 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders fair, the Swiss maestros unveiled their updated collection, heightening their already lofty charm and value for money with contemporary touches. Combing finely through that detail is phenom Sandra Lane, who called into our Watch Fair & Chill breakdown from her leafy lockdown in New Zealand to explain exactly why these…

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DOXA SUB 300T

13.05.2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 300T, the dive watch icon that takes you 1200m deep for less than $2000USD

A helium release valve will never stop confusing people. What does it do? How does it work? Do I need one when snorkelling, or free-diving on holiday? The answer to that last question is a firm no, and, to prove it, DOXA have reinvented their own 1969 SUB 300T — the first consumer-grade dive watch to include the famous HRV — without one. DOXA use this iconic model to celebrate 50 years of technological advancement by showcasing what breathtaking depths a standard screw-down watch case can achieve. Purists can relax, though. In nearly every other way an authentic reproduction of…

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Chopard Mille Miglia

07.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways

For their spring novelty releases this year, Chopard have reinvigorated two of their most popular collections: the Mille Miglia and the L.U.C families. We are offered something for everyone, with the more refined L.U.C collection featuring attractive new perpetual calendar references with tastefully balanced dial proportions and a beautifully decorated movement, while the sportiness of the gentleman driver comes across in the Mille Miglia collection, this year with an azzurro motif. Let’s take a closer look at what’s new. L.U.C Perpetual Twin Getting a makeover this year are two new models in the L.U.C ‘Complications’ family, using the same in-house…

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2020 Panerai collection

05.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life

We often hear that mechanical watches last forever when given the love and attention they require. That’s part of the reason why they can command such high price tags, and even more in the long run when you factor in a service every five years, give or take. But really, we all know that a watch is subject to just as much wear and tear as anything else — metal scratches, rubber perishes, things break. Warranties can give some small peace of mind within the typical two to five year window, but what if you knew for certain that your…

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2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection

03.05.2020

INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch

It takes an iron will to walk past an A. Lange & Söhne dealer without losing a few minutes of your day. The German masters ensure their collections soar above the competition, bewitching onlookers and dominating wish-lists around the world. If you’re lucky, dead in the centre of the captivating display will be a Zeitwerk Minute Repeater — the ‘digital’ watch that redefined the holy grail of complications. Now, to celebrate five years since its launch, A. Lange & Söhne have created a limited edition of 30 Zeitwerk Minute Repeaters with a striking blue dial and white gold case. If…

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A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus white gold

27.04.2020

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow

A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of water resistant, blue-dialled steel watches with an integrated bracelet. But in typically Lange fashion, it added nigh-on incomparable levels of engineering. The push buttons alone, hidden inside the gently sloping crown guard and used to advance the sophisticated day and date wheels, mark out the…

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26.04.2020

10 watches from Montblanc’s 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain

When Richemont acquired Minerva to pair with Montblanc to fast-track legitimacy for their watchmaking division, some scoffed at the audacity. Taking a respected, historical watchmaker and giving their patents to a pen brand seemed like horological heresy at the time; however, Montblanc’s commitment to continuing Minerva’s legacy only grows more apparent with each subsequent year of new releases. Burgeoning respect from all, even the naysayers, is happening. For 2020’s online edition of Watches & Wonders, Montblanc have updated their collections to include 10 novel designs, ranging from subtle dial changes to bombastic antique re-imaginings. Heritage Collection While Montblanc’s 21st century…

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20.04.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Introducing Marnaut, the sub-$1k 300m dive watch with the sea urchin dot-pattern dial

Mario Jutronic’s marine-themed microbrand Marnaut is a breath of fresh ocean air. It was beginning to seem impossible that a retro-flavoured dive watch could bring anything new to the table, but one glimpse at a Marnaut dial and you must admit they’ve found a way. Having spent a large portion of his youth snorkelling around the Adriatic Sea, Croatian entrepreneur and watch collector Mario Jutronic decided that his own brand needed to break away from the endlessly recycled designs in the diving world. His solution? Evoking the strikingly symmetrical holes in a Sea Urchin’s exoskeleton by arranging no less than…

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timex marlin

06.04.2020

The pointy end of the Timex revival, a short history of the breakout Marlin collection

When it comes to celebrity endorsements, Patrick Swayze’s sixth cousin once removed John Cameron Swayze is simply not modern watch brand ambassador material. A news anchor and game show host during the ’40s and ’50s, Chris Hemsworth he wasn’t. The 1960s, however, was the perfect era for Swayze to take to timepiece advertisements. Whether being caught mid-air by a trained dolphin, or held in the hand of a free-falling diver jumping off the edge of Acapulco’s cliffs in Mexico, Timex watches were the action-bearing beaters of their day. And, in a move that predates similar ‘torture tests’ by over 60…

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Artisans De Genève

03.04.2020

The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far

Editor’s note: ‘Modding’ a watch is not a trend in watchmaking, it is a trope. It has, and always will be, a part of the watchmaking and watch-wearing world as companies and individuals seek to personalise and individualise watches. A uniquely modified watch becomes more of a statement. And it offers an alternative to a ‘Piece Unique’, one-off watch. This story is the first in ‘The Modifier’s Series’, which looks at the main players in the modding game. Coming up, MAD, Bamford and more… For so many of us, Rolex — for all of its flaws — remains the pinnacle of the…

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Sinn EZM 12

01.04.2020

INTRODUCING: The Sinn EZM 12, a German Design Award-winning watch for the sanitary conscious

Editor’s note: When this landed in our inbox with imagery of surgical scrubs, a soapy petri dish and a headline along the lines of ‘finally, a super-hygienic watch for medical personnel’, we recoiled. It seemed opportunistic, given the obsession the world currently has with personal — and professional — hygiene. So I called a few friends who work at a hospital. An orderly, a doctor, a surgeon. I asked them what they thought. They all wanted to know more. What makes the watch less prone to contamination? I realised quickly that this was a review worth sharing. There was no sense from…

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DOXA Sub 200

31.03.2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200

DOXA’s revival is something easily missed if you’re not paying close attention. Vintage-inspired or re-issued dive watches aren’t exactly selling for double the retail price due to lack of supply, but this DOXA SUB 200 isn’t just another trendy microbrand with an aesthetic and a good marketing team. When determining the legacy of a watchmaker, the first place to look is their innovations. With DOXA, you don’t need to look far. For instance, the first unidirectional diving bezel in 1957, already a home run for the brand without taking into account their collaboration with Rolex in developing the first ever…

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Grand Seiko SLGH002

24.03.2020

Grand Seiko ups the ante – on itself – with the SLGH002, where classic meets cutting edge

Seiko is a brand that is well accustomed to competing with itself. Both to raise the bar for the brand’s watches, and for the betterment of the global watch industry. From the revolution of bringing quartz-powered movements to the masses, to embarrassing the Swiss at their own Chronometer Trials, the intrepid Japanese pioneers can seem to be their own sole competition. With each generation, Seiko and all of its divisions, Grand Seiko chief among them, stop at nothing to self-improve, find new innovations, and stun the watch world. The trend continues in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition,…

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Yema watches

23.03.2020

Everything you need to know about French brand Yema watches, and their four key models

If you didn’t spend much time diving in the Azure Seas in coastal France in the late ’60s, chances are you may not be entirely familiar with the French brand Yema. With its most popular models having a subdued appearance, and not featuring ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial, it can be easy for the eye to wander past their offerings and settle on something with a much older name. Those who love to feel their heart lurch when seeing the price tag of a flashy piece won’t find that same pleasure with the competitive costs on display here,…

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16.03.2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1500T

Within DOXA’s lineup of tributes to its 1967-born icon, the SUB 300, the SUB 1500T poses the burning question none of us knew we were asking: What if it could go even deeper? Because one of the most self-sabotaging misnomers the watch industry has ever seen is this: the Doxa SUB 300T hints at only one-quarter of the truth. It can, in fact, go 1200 metres deep. The original SUB 300 (no T) from 1967 was thinner and was true to its name, but the 300T continues to sell itself short with its name. As as it turns out, not…

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William Wood The Red Watch

09.03.2020

HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch

Emerging watchmakers face the near-Sisyphean task of standing out in a sea of low-budget options all vying for market dominance and social media influence. When William Wood’s founder Jonny Garrett launched a crowdfunding campaign to commemorate his grandfather’s heroics in the British Fire Service, the passion in the story clearly resonated with the thousands of pledgers who wanted to make these watches a reality. In 2020, William Wood’s ‘Valiant Collection’ seeks to continue the tribute to the man himself and fire fighters around the world, all the while being stylish enough to pass under the radar as daily wear. At…

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Omega Seamaster

04.03.2020

Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster

We all have those knick-knacks lying around that get forgotten. Dried-up sharpies, matchboxes, and screwdrivers are the common offenders in my household, however there had always been one outlier. A small, unassuming wristwatch had been sitting in an antique drawer for at least 20 years. Freshly into my 20s, I landed a job that meant I couldn’t have my phone on me for the length of the shift, and there was hardly a clock in sight. I had the very new issue of a watch being a necessity, so I went and found the cheapest watch I could get. After…

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