Watches that prove lug-to-lug is the most important measurement

Zach Blass

Whenever we look at a watch’s specifications online, we generally find the usual suspects – case diameter and thickness, depth rating, type of crystal, the type of movement, and so on. But this information often omits perhaps the most important detail; the lug-to-lug measurement. Although commonly discussed within the enthusiast community, very rarely are the lug-to-lug measurements of a watch listed within the provided specifications from the brands. Some brands, however, have started to get better about this. But what is it, and why is it so important?

What is lug-to-lug?

For the uninitiated, the lug-to-lug measurement of a watch is the measurement in millimeters from the top-most extremity of the case lugs to the bottom. Not to be confused with lug width, which is a measurement between two lugs on the same side of the case that is crucial for determining compatible strap width.

In fact, one such brand that has recognised the importance of lug-to-lug as a better exhibitor of size is high-end independent F.P. Journe. With its high-tech, quartz-driven Élégante, its two size configurations are listed as 40 and 48, which are not in reference to the diameter. It refers to the lug to lug of the watch due to its tonneau profile.

Watches like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or Cartier Tank would benefit from such a size nomenclature, as the width of a rectangle is misleading for the size of the watch. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph, for example, is 29.9mm in width. Tiny, right? Wrong. With a lug-to-lug of 49.4mm, it actually has a very sizeable span across the wrist.

Below you will find three more examples, where lug-to-lug helps a watch wear smaller, how lugless designs can make or break fit, and when lug-to-lug, like the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, can make a watch wear much larger than you would initially think.

When lug-to-lug helps a watch wear smaller: Doxa SUB 300 (42.5mm x 45mm)

The Doxa SUB 300 is a great example of a professionally sized watch that is capable of flattering any wrist. With Doxa’s flying saucer-like profile, this sleek and superb diver is a great example of how a larger diameter may not translate to a larger-wearing watch. While 42.5mm in diameter, the watch is only 45 or so millimetres lug-to-lug. This is 3mm less than a modern Submariner, even though the Doxa is 2mm larger in diameter. This means that, across the watch, it maintains a professional stance on the wrist, but vertically, this watch has practically a modern dress watch profile. This reduces the risk of the watch lugs flaring out way across the wrist, which many associate with a poor-fitting watch.

I am by no means suggesting the Doxa SUB 300 does not appear large. Its 42.5mm width does give it a bolder presence, but its more compact lug-to-lug means it will unlikely wing out across most wrists in an unflattering way. I personally prescribe to the sentiment: a watch can never be too wide for your arm, but it can be too long for your wrist.

When lug-to-lug and case diameter are the same: Furlan Marri Disco Volante (38mm x 38mm)

A 38mm diameter is often referred to as a Goldilocks diameter, due to it being a fan-favourite. Most conventional 38mm watches will have a lug-to-lug span around 45mm to 48mm, so when the 38mm Furlan Marri Disco Volante made its debut earlier this week, you would think everyone would have their hands raised in celebration.

However, it’s not so simple. Now, I am not complaining. I like classically sized watches and a Disco Volante, in my opinion, should have vintage-like proportions. But in this modern era, a lugless watch can complicate things. While many people love a 38mm watch, people are less accustomed to wearing a watch that is 38mm lug-to-lug. So depending on the scenario, a lugless design can be a cause for pause or celebration, depending on your preferences. I do not really gravitate towards watches with diameters beyond 42mm, as their lug-to-lug is typically too long. But a 42mm lug-to-lug due to a lugless design – that will fit me very well.

Technically, the Furlan Marri Disco Volante is not lugless per se, as conventional lugs are hidden beneath the case. However, effectively speaking, it is lugless in fit and aesthetic. Its clever design creates an integrated-look without having to create a case that truly integrates the strap – giving it much more strap monster potential. Ultimately, Furlan Marri scaling up a disco volante-style watch to 38mm, rather than the style’s past 34mm to 36mm sizing, is a strategic compromise to enlarge the watch enough, but not too much, so that theoretically everybody wins. But it is important to note it will wear much smaller than your average 38mm diameter watch, and it is up to you to decide if you are comfortable with that.

When lug-to-lug makes a watch wear larger: Nomos Ahoi Atlantik Blue ref. 552 (40mm x 50mm)

Nomos is a brand I absolutely love, but have never personally taken the plunge in making a purchase. Why would I not want a badass Bauhaus watch in my collection? Because their lug-to-lug and lug profiles do absolutely no justice by my wrist. In most instances, the long lugs found on Nomos cases extend out around 10mm. Case in point: the Ahoi is an intriguing diver that bolsters a unique look not found in divers from other brands. While they get points for originality, Nomos, however, lose me with the 50mm or so lug-to-lug measurement of the case.

The good news: there is a 36mm version as well. The bad news: it’s oddly larger than you would expect at 46mm lug-to-lug – if anything it wears closer to your average 38mm or 40mm diameter watch. While 46mm lug-to-lug would be perfect for me normally, the lugs do not conform a great deal around my rounded wrist. Without an integrated bracelet to hide the “winging out” past the extremities of my wrist, it does not fit me very well – or at least not how I would necessarily like. This is not to say you shouldn’t consider buying one, I just urge the slimmer of wrist to consider the lug-to-lug before handing over your credit card.

Final thoughts

I recognise my inherent bias due to my smaller wrist proportions. That being said, I would like to think we can all come to the consensus that buyers everywhere would be better-informed in their decisions with the metric in mind. Knowing that 50mm or above is an absolute no-go for me when it comes to lug-to-lug and that my sweet spot is around 45mm for dressy watches and 46-48mm for sporty watches, I have yet to order a watch online that did not fit me well. I always recommend trying a watch on in the metal, but truth is, not all watches are easily accessible, especially independents and microbrands that don’t have large distribution networks. Short of trying on a friend’s watch, you would be hard-pressed to try on certain watches, but with an understanding of your own lug-to-lug sweet spot, you can much more safely infer which watches will fit you best when purchasing online.