Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke
Borna BošnjakWhen thinking of Nomos, the first thing that comes to mind is clean, studied designs that follow the Bauhaus method. At times, these break free of their block colour schemes and get a lick of, say, vibrant pink, but rarely would I describe Nomos’ design choices as sultry. The three new Club Sport Neomatik 39 models we’re taking a look at today are here to change that, outfitted in a tonal array of sunburst grey, pink gold, and bronze brown. The colours are inspired by the hues of those long, warm summers that creep into the early months of autumn, while the names themselves – Tabac, Ember, and Smoke – remind of smoky cigar lounges and the rich smell of tobacco.
The dials aren’t the only novelty, as Nomos also introduces a new case size for the Club Sport, now measuring 39.5mm – a reasonable size for one of the brand’s sportiest models, and one well-suited to most wrists.
The dials
Let’s take a closer look at those dials first, though. Apart from some properly bonkers Club Campus colours, Nomos usually stick to desaturated pastels and monochromatic scales. Only recently, and with the dawn of the Club Sport line, has the brand begun experimenting with sunburst dials – and I’m so glad that’s the case.
The rich sunburst emanates from the centre pinion, only interrupted by a sunken, colour-matched sub-dial. On top of the sunray brushing, the sub-dials also get an azurage finish for extra visual interest.
Overall, the layout is exactly as we’d expect from a Nomos Club model. The indices are split between sans-serif Arabic numerals for the even numbers, and stick markers for the odd ones, with a simple minute track around the outside. Other than the Nomos Glashütte branding and gold ‘neomatik’ script, there is no superfluous dial text – a rare blessing.
One final note on the lume – as these are, after all, categorised as sports watches. Something that only a closer look at the indices reveals is that they’re actually slightly sunken into the dial. This allows Nomos to pump them full of luminous paint, making for vastly improved after-dark legibility. Having said that, it’s still not on par with out-and-out divers, simply given the nature of the design, as the hands can be a little difficult to tell apart.
The case
While I’m excited about the new dial colours, other fans of the Club Sport should also get excited about the new case size. So far, the model was only available in 37mm and 42mm sizes, meaning the 39.5mm diameter of the new trio could be the sweet spot for many.
We can’t talk about Nomos without mentioning the lugs, however. This signature design feature of the brand has polarised people in the past, with its long, thin shape adding to the 49.5mm lug-to-lug distance. All this means is that I’d highly recommend trying a Nomos on, just to see how their design fits your wrist size and shape. Thankfully, Nomos didn’t compromise the slimness of the Club Sport, maintaining it at 8.4mm for the steel caseback models, and 8.5mm for those showing off the Neomatik calibre within.
Regardless of your caseback option, you still get a really impressive 200 metres of water resistance. This will never stop being a pleasant surprise, especially in a landscape where so many brands look to justify excessive thickness with water resistance. Another surprise, whether pleasant or otherwise I leave up to you, is the fully polished case finish. This is standard practice for most Nomos models, though it could come across as unexpected for a sporty-oriented watch.
The bracelet
To go with its sporty aesthetic, Nomos outfitted the Cub Sport 39 with a slim, three-link steel bracelet. It subtly tapers from the 20mm at the lugs, finishing in a high-polish double-pusher clasp that matches the centre links. Flip it around, and you’ll find a toolless micro-adjust system on its underside, offering around half a link of adjustment. It’s very similar in look to the quick-release spring bars on the other end of the bracelet and can be a bit tricky to adjust properly if you tend to cut your nails short like I do.
Stylistically, it’s a really simple bracelet that I can’t see being the differentiating factor when purchasing this watch, as it’s clear that Nomos focus their efforts on the head of the watch. I can see the polished mid-links being a point of contention for many, and while I also prefer brushed bracelets on my sports watches, I do concur that they complement the fully polished case.
The movement
As mentioned previously, the Club Sport 39 is really slender on the wrist, and that’s largely thanks to the DUW 3001 Neomatik. This is Nomos’ mid-range, in-house movement sporting a full balance bridge, winding rotor, and Nomos’ Swing System escapement. Spec-wise, it beats at 21,600vph and has a 43-hour power reserve, which isn’t the most impressive, though considering the slenderness and degree of decoration, a decent trade-off in my opinion.
The verdict
I’ll go out on a limb and say it – the Tabac colourway may just be my favourite dial colour this year. Brown is seldom done, and even more rarely done well. This tobacco colour is just stunning. Not to take away from the other two colours, either – the Ember is not quite a bronze, nor salmon – striking the balance perfectly, while the Smoke is another rare occurrence, as grey (not silver) dials are less common than I realised. As far as the wearing experience goes, you’ve got to be wary of Nomos’ long lugs, which make their watches wear larger than the dimensions suggest on paper. Where the Club Sport (and most other Nomos models) excel is their thickness – in this case around 8.5mm which is fantastic – especially when considering the 200-metre water resistance. That’s all thanks to the Neomatik calibre which, while not the most spec-heavy, makes up for it with its 3.2mm height and decent decoration.
One niggle I have to raise is the bracelet – and this is consistent across all Club Sport models. The three-link design is a little derivative and the construction is a little rickety, while the inclusion of pins instead of screws still doesn’t impress at this price point. A commendable feature is the clasp which adds minimal bulk to the whole package, though again, it offers little in terms of micro-adjustment.
Finally, we have to touch on the price. The Club Sport Neomatik 39 isn’t the value-oriented proposition some of us may have become accustomed to from Nomos. With prices starting at A$4,780, it faces some stiff competition, though it is a versatile enough piece to stand out with its slender dimensions and impressive water resistance. For those wishing to see the Neomatik movement, you’ll need to find another A$500 or so for a display caseback, which is a really steep price increase in my opinion.
Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 pricing and availability
The Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 collection is available now from Nomos’ online store and retailers. Price: A$4,780 (solid caseback), A$5,310 (display caseback)
| Brand | Nomos Glashütte |
| Model | Club Sport Neomatik 39 |
| Reference Number | 759, 760, 761, 762, 763, 764 |
| Case Dimensions | 39.5mm (D) x 8.5mm (T) x 49.5mm (LTL) (display caseback) 39.5mm (D) x 8.4mm (T) x 49.5mm (LTL) (solid caseback) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and display back |
| Dial | Galvanised sunburst in tobacco, gold, grey |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Three-link steel bracelet, toolless micro-adjust on double-folding clasp |
| Movement | DUW 3001 Neomatik, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 43 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | A$4,780, US$3,310 (solid caseback) A$5,310, US$3,700 (display caseback) |