9 of the best time-only watches, when simplicity is all you need

Russell Sheldrake

It can be easy for us watch nerds to get excited over complications. After all, it is these additional functions and complexities that show the skill of a watchmaker and imagination of the designer. But we mustn’t forget that the purest form of a watch, the time-only, still deserves our love and attention. Reducing a watch down to its base functions allows it other qualities to shine through: giving an outlet for uninterrupted design in an incredibly pure state means that the aesthetic codes of a brand can clearly be interpreted, beyond their desire to implement complications. With that in mind, here are what we think constitutes some of the best time-only watches on the market today.

While we could have gone on and on with this list going through nearly all of the top brands in the world and the many entry-point ones too, we wanted to limit ourselves slightly, while also sticking to models that are available today. This means we left off a lot of the very highest-end independent brands that all deserve a mention, but maybe I’ll save them for a future article…

Timex Marlin

If you want to get into proper watches, but design is still the most important thing for you, the Timex Marlin might be the best gateway drug on the market today. Though it doesn’t cost a dollar, with its manual wind movement offering you the tactile experience you’d expect from classical watchmaking, and the classy vibes coming from the Reissue model, it’s hard to not consider this traditionally-styled watch when you have a limited budget and want to dip your toe in the world of mechanical, time-only watches. Price: US$209

Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm

One of the most iconic time-only watch designs is the field watch. Derived from the most functional layouts ever imagined for a wristwatch, they come from pieces issued to military members during the Second World War, with the most famous examples being the Dirty Dozen. While Hamilton wasn’t part of these fateful 12, its Khaki Field line has become one of the most sought-after field watches on the market, and when this classic look was taken to the silver screen with the Murph in Christopher Nolan’s 2014 epic Interstellar, it only became more desirable. Highly legible, and with a starring role in one of the best films from the 2010s, there is a lot going for the Murph, and what’s even better, is that it’s available in our store, online or in our Melbourne Discovery Studio. Price: US$895, available from the T+T Shop

Baltic Prismic

The French microbrand Baltic has quickly become a favourite of ours. The brand takes iconic designs, applies simple tweaks to them by injecting some of their own personality, and does so at an affordable price point. The Baltic Prismic brings sharp angles and geometric shapes to a classic cocktail watch, which helps to elevate this simplistic, time-only piece into something with a real point of difference. And once you put it on the Milanese bracelet, its style is amplified. A great watch for those smarter occasions, while still wanting to make a statement. Price: starting from A$1,800, available from the T+T Shop (and from our UK store)

Tudor Black Bay 54

The smaller version of the famous Black Bay has been on my wishlist ever since it was announced back in 2023. It combines all the aspects of a great watch, a Kenissi movement that has been tested to the nth degree, classical design that brings old-school features into the modern era, and the features and functionality expected at a much higher price point. Whether you love it for the micro-adjust T-Fit clasp, or the satisfying click of its unidirectional bezel, there is a lot in this small package – and I just hope Tudor looks to build on this smaller range moving forward. Price: US$4,050

Grand Seiko SBGW297 Boshu Red

I would almost be doing this list a disservice if I didn’t include a Grand Seiko somewhere on it, and this manual-wind SBGW287 Boshu Red has always taken my fancy. It might not have the extremely recognisable Snowflake or White Birch dial textures, but the deep red made to evoke the colours of autumn speaks to me in a far more subtle way. Inside you have the venerable 9S64 calibre, and though it’s one of its entry-level mechanical models, it’s still worthy of a brand whose movements with “Spring” or “Drive” in their name are so widely celebrated. Measuring in at 37.3mm across and a lug-to-elegant-lug of 44.3mm, it feels perfect for almost any wrist size. Price: US$4,900

Rolex Submariner

I was debating whether the Rolex Submariner crops up too often in an array of different “best of” categories, but its influence is simply too formidable to be excluded. That said, I think the best version of the Submariner is the no-date reference 124060 – it might just be the most recognisable watch on the planet. The basic design of the watch hasn’t changed much since the reference 5513 that was originally introduced in 1962, one of many examples of Rolex taking the evolution rather than revolution route. The 124060 is the latest in line, coming in at 41mm in diameter for the first time in the Submariner’s history. It’s a subtle difference to the naked eye, stepping away from the somewhat bloated characteristics of its maxi-cased predecessor. The eye-catching symmetry, iconic design, and simplicity of the dial are striking, yet balanced, providing such pleasure to look at. Simply put, it will always be one of the best time-only watches available. Price: US$9,100

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

I think it goes without saying that the Tank Louis Cartier is the epitome of Cartier horology – made only in precious metals and worn by Louis Cartier himself. It’s the ultimate watch to pair with a suit for a business meeting, a suede jacket on a Sunday stroll, or with a white t-shirt on a sunny day by the beach. The Tank offers timeless style, but the Tank Louis offers iconic style. Whether you go for Roman numerals or a lacquered dial, you have a connection to the watch with the mechanical hand-wound movement and the understanding that this watch and Art Deco design go hand-in-hand. It’s a mind-blowing time-only piece, punching way above its weight simply for its iconic status. Price: US$13,000

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds

Most, if not all watch enthusiasts are often drawn into the mindset of “just one more, and I am done”. For myself, it would be a Reverso. Not the fancy Duoface chronographs or moonphase models, but the time-only variations. It has so much personality that I don’t think it needs any more bells or whistles for it to stand out. The fact you can manipulate its appearance by simply flipping the dial over to see a beautifully polished caseback enhances its appeal. Also, the watch fits into a variety of different scenarios with ease, as a piece that would be at home in the boardroom or, if intended for its original use, on the polo field. The watchmaker’s watchmaker creates some of the most beautiful dials in existence, classically styled with a sense of meaning and purpose where they navigate the fine line of trying not to do too much, so as not to distract from the watch’s party trick. And, they do their bit to protect nature along the way. Price: US$22,700

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1921

I love the term “conversation starter”. It’s something that comes up a lot in the watch world, but I can’t quite think of many other watches that can draw someone in from across the room like the Historiques 1921 can. Whether its 1920s gentleman driver inspiration is true or not, sitting on the underside of their wrist as they commandeered huge wooden steering wheels, it doesn’t really matter. Just look at it. Stunningly beautiful, made in precious metal, with large, perfectly calligraphed Arabic numerals, and a small seconds sub-dial to top it all off. The movement is worthy of praise, too, with the Geneva-sealed 4400 AS visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback. Such attention to detail comes at a price, but in this case, I think it’s worth it. Don’t just take my word for it, though. Our own Andrew McUtchen raved about it after wearing it for just a week. Price: US$40,400