5 of the best platinum watches
Adam ReederSeeing a platinum watch in the wild is a rare treat, at least for most of us. While the untrained eye may not register a difference between platinum and stainless steel, anyone who has handled both can attest to the hefty feel of the former on-wrist. Platinum has a weight that reminds the wearer they have something of substance on their person. It’s one of the most attractive case-making materials for a few different reasons. Aside from the noble properties of platinum which allow it to be highly malleable, durable, and corrosion-resistant, it’s exceptionally beautiful. The refined silver-white luster of a platinum watch offers a subtle elegance unmatched by other metals. Platinum will also patina over time, should the wearer choose to keep it unpolished. If you’re looking for a way to spend that spare cash burning a hole in your pocket, maybe think about one of the following platinum stunners.
Omega Seamaster 300 in platinum
A true sports watch in platinum is the ultimate humble-flex. While this piece has the dial and specs of any other Seamaster 300, the 950 platinum case and bracelet offer an extra layer of intrigue. 300 metres of water-resistance, a ceramic bezel insert, and Omega’s vaunted Co-Axial escapement make the Seamaster 300 a true diver’s diver. However, add that beautiful platinum finish to the mix and you’ve become the ultimate international person of mystery. This watch is no longer in production, with secondary market values floating in the mid-to-high five figure ranges.
Cartier Les Rééditions Tank Cintrée Platinum
Cartier is one of the most iconic watchmakers, period, and the Tank line is a major part of that storied past. But not all Tanks are created equal. Enter the Cartier Les Rééditions Tank Cintrée Platinum. With its elegant and slender case that caresses the wrist oh-so-gently, this watch oozes sophistication. The Cartier Tank Cintrée is a slightly less subdued alternative to its predecessor and (partial) namesake. At just over 6mm thick, it’s a low-profile dream to wear, and the platinum case of this model gives it just enough weight to remind you that you’re wearing a piece of history. Price is on request.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar in 950 Platinum
A. Lange & Söhne is known by watch aficionados as an unofficial member of the unofficial holy trinity when it comes to high horology. The famed German watchmaker is highly adept at making watches that make a statement, and this piece fits that mould perfectly. Owning any annual calendar from Lange is a beguiling proposition, but one made of shimmering platinum is a sin-inducing temptress indeed. This model has all of the standard Saxonia bells and whistles, boasting an panorama date window, display caseback showing off a gorgeous micro-rotor, and a near-perfect case size of 38.5mm, with secondary market values around A$85,000. With all those horological goodies inside, it’s almost a crime to package them in anything but platinum.
Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with Jean-Pierre Hagmann case
Jean-Pierre Hagmann is a legendary casemaker when it comes to platinum and of the most important craftsmen in the modern history of Patek Philippe. This impressive platinum beauty is a great example of where that reputation comes from. It’s a minute-repeating perpetual calendar with a tourbillon, moon phase, leap year indicator, and retrograde date. It’s about as complicated as you can get, and the stunning platinum case reflects the same signature attention to detail. The Breguet numerals match the elegance of the overall case design and more traditional 36.5mm case size. This particular example sold at Christie’s for over A$700,000 – and that was more than three years ago…
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon SLGT003
Grand Seiko is legendary for their hand finishing and attention to detail. The Kodo might be the most perfect example of this workmanship in their entire catalog. Part of GS’s Masterpiece Collection, the Kodo boasts a tourbillon combined with a constant force escapement complication. Even reading Grand Seiko’s description of the movement is a titillating endeavor. With tantalising turns of phrase describing the “rotation” and “harmonising” of the movement as “deeply satisfying” this watch just might make you blush. A 20-piece boutique exclusive, the Kodo’s skeletonised design and ruby flourishes are anything but subtle, which includes its US$350,000 price tag, too.