The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar makes way for tradition
Fergus NashIt’s become clear over the last five years especially that there’s a lot of room in the watch world. No matter how eccentric or unusual your tastes may be, there is a brand out there who can cater to something even weirder. But, that doesn’t mean that traditional tastes have been completely abandoned. As technology for design and manufacturing improves, there are those who reinterpret classical cues with modern touches and a delicate touch. The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is one such watch, remaining clean, proper, and gorgeous.
The case
One of the main things that sets true vintage and contemporary watchmaking apart is the case sizes, as we generally prefer our watches to be seen and prioritised these days. At 42mm, the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is definitely going to be noticed, especially with a large white dial that’s open and airy. That doesn’t mean wearability has been sacrificed though, with a 12.8mm thickness which could fit beneath a cuff and lugs that don’t overreach at 47.6mm from tip to tip.
The 18k red gold case is allowed to sparkle with a polished finish from the front’s perspective, drawing light to the edges of the sloping lugs and slender bezel. There aren’t any specific flourishes which stand out on the case, but each aspect has been proportioned perfectly. The crown could not be any bigger or smaller, nor could the lugs, for every element has been designed in tune with its own harmony. There are hidden pushers which detent the surface of the brushed case sides, aiding in the setting of the perpetual calendar while keeping the silhouette clean.
The dial
Perpetual calendars are notoriously difficult to make, not just because of the engineering necessary within the movement but also because of the dial design. Trying to maintain a balance between minimalism and information is delicate work, but the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar succeeds. The weekday and month have been given symmetrical windows with lush bevelled edges, which is also given to the grand date display below the Glashütte Original logo. Having a grand date has become key to Glashütte style, but sometimes they can upset the balance of a dial. Here it’s been laid out opposite a moonphase display, with a brightly-polished gold moon within a guilloché wheel of stars.
The hands of the watch fill out the remaining complications, with a subdial below 12 o’clock to indicate the leap years. The poire-style hour and minute hands bring about a reminiscence of pocket watch styles, while the blued seconds hand adds a touch of modernity thanks to the GO logo counterbalance. These traverse the stippled white dial, which has been given a lot of room to breathe. The texture is blasted, giving it a look not unlike parchment or crepe paper. The applied Roman numerals sign the dial off in classicism, giving no illusions as to its worship of the past.
The movement
As much as we love to look at watches while wearing them, we can’t pretend that one of the biggest draws to Glashütte watchmaking isn’t the movements. After all, lengthy legal battles have been fought to protect the integrity of the Glashütte name, and its stamp on the dial means more than any typical country marking. The Calibre 36-02 from Glashütte Original is a shining example of why that is, packing in plenty of modern features while retaining the traditional hallmarks. The surfaces, including the three-quarter plate, are painstakingly finished with stripes, bevelled edges, and blued screws for a glittering display. The hand-engraved balance cock stands out with its golden colour, and the automatic winding rotor keeps the whopping 100-hour power reserve topped up while you’re wearing it. After all, perpetual calendars are only perpetual if they don’t run out of power.
The strap
A strap is easy to overlook with a watch like this, but Glashütte Original have made sure that an appropriate level of luxury has been reached with the appropriately conservative styling. Made from the hide of Louisiana alligator, the leather strap fits the 21mm lugs and is paired with an 18k red gold clasp to match the case. It has pushers on the side for secure and easy removal, and plenty of holes for adjustment.
The verdict
There are those who would try to box the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar into the genre of ‘dress watch’, but more truthfully it’s something that wants to be worn on a daily basis. It carries its traditional values proudly, while also doing things substantially different from what we’ve come to expect from luxury perpetual calendars. If you’re in the market for a high-end watch that has some utility without feeling cluttered, then this watch sums that up.
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar pricing and availability
The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is now available from Glashütte Original’s website and retailers. Price: A$52,300
| Brand | Glashütte Original |
| Model | Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar |
| Reference Number | 1-36-02-02-05-61 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 12.8mm (T) x 47.6mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 18k red gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | White |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| Strap | Brown Louisiana alligator leather |
| Movement | Calibre 36-02, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 100 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, big date |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | A$52,300 |