Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824

Zach Blass

The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being said, ETA movements are still pervasive throughout the industry in both modified and unmodified forms. One staple of their manufacture is the ETA 2824, which has been seen in watches across the decades in everything from vintage Tudor Submariners to Omega Seamasters prior to the co-axial era. Let’s take a look at some watches at various price points that use the ETA 2824 movement.

 

Steinhart Ocean 39 Green Ceramic

Gasp! I know, Steinhart made the list and I don’t blame you for asking why. The reality is, however, that what Steinhart lacks in originality they gain with very attractive price points – especially considering the solid build of their pieces. It’s quite incredible to be able to get a new watch under $500 USD with a ceramic bezel and a renowned ETA 2824 movement. If the horological plagiarism doesn’t irk you, it’s a quality entry-level watch with a trusted ETA 2824 caliber. Price: €379.31 excl. 16% VAT

Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC

The Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC arguably packs the most technology into an ETA 2824 of any watch on this list – and it’s the second lowest in price! The watch utilises the ETA CO7.811, which is based on the ETA 2824, but incorporates some serious upgrades. While the standard ETA 2824 has a power reserve of 38 hours, the Powermatic 80 more than doubles the endurance and efficiency of the watch with about 80 hours. If that wasn’t enough, the watch also uses a patented silicon balance spring to greatly increase the watch’s resistance to magnetism. Price: $925 USD

Laco Pilot Watch Original Paderborn

Pilot’s watches are an incredibly popular category and, as a result, demand has surged for more affordable aviation watches that don’t sacrifice the quality of the offering; The Laco Pilot Watch Original Paderborn uses the ETA 2824 movement like many other big brands, but does so at basically a third of the cost. A reasonably wearable 42mm in diameter and 50mm lug to lug, the Paderborn is a great watch to scratch the itch until your wrist or your wallet grows enough to buy a Big Pilot. Price: €844.83 excl. 16 % VAT

Ming 17.06 Copper

In my opinion, the Ming 17.06 models are the textbook example for how brands should leverage the ETA 2824 movement. It allowed the Ming brand to keep costs down – especially in comparison to their 19 series watches that are approximately seven times more expensive than the 17.06. This GPHG winner stunned enthusiasts, collectors, and industry professionals with it’s textured dial in salmon-hued copper. Its success was evident from the outset, selling out within minutes of its release. It is still TBC whether more will be produced, but they now they can sell for up to four times their original retail price. Hopefully Ming provides their devotees with some additional pieces so that more people can enjoy this instant classic. Price: 1,250 CHF

DOXA Sub 300

For those who love robust divers on rubber, DOXA needs to be on your radar with their SUB 300 watch. It’s the color you don’t have to wait to add to your collection (*cough* Rolex *cough* Oyster Perpetuals *cough*), and balances it’s playful aesthetics with a solid and sturdy build – including its ETA 2824 movement. The 300 metres of water resistance and a dial matching rubber strap with dive extension makes this watch an incredible value buy, much of which is down to its cost-effective ETA 2824 engine. Price: $2,450 USD

Tudor Black Bay 36

The Tudor Ranger may be the historical sibling to the Rolex Explorer, but in the modern catalogue if you want the Tudor alternative to the beloved 36mm Rolex the Black Bay 36mm is your best best. While Tudor lists the movement as the T600 on the site, that is ultimately Tudor-speak for ETA 2824. With modifications not listed, and a standard power reserve of 38 hours, it is fair to assume it is a well regulated ETA 2824 in its original form. Speaking of the Rolex Explorer, the Black Bay 36mm actually bests it by having 50 metres more water resistance with a total depth rating of 150 metres. Price: $2950 USD

Zero West S4-P9427

Bet you didn’t think an up and coming brand would take the highest price point on this list – but in fairness there is a lot of originality in design and composition to explore here. Inspired by a Spitfire plane that fought in the Battle of Britain 80 years ago, the watch has an enamel dial and a compact 44mm case that’s  less than 50mm lug to lug. While the is design is distinctly Zero West, what is not immediately obvious is the ETA 2824 within as it’s covered by a solid disc crafted from the Merlin Engine of the salvaged plane. The ETA 2824 is a very respectable movement, but it’s not necessarily an aesthetic showstopper  – so having a museum window of a caseback instead is a win in my book. Price: £2,500.00