The Doxa SUB 200T is classic Doxa flavour in a smaller and cheaper package
Buffy AcaciaWhen Doxa branches out from its established style, the brand is not afraid to get weird. Weathered steel or ceramic cases are cool and all, but the 1960s Doxa look is really what has earned people’s adoration. Until now, the entry-level option has been the Doxa SUB 200, but that watch really doesn’t scratch the itch created by the quirky-yet-lovable SUB 300T. That’s where the new SUB 200T comes in, effectively a lower-cost version of the 300T that also reduces the size.
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The case
It’s a fairly well-established trick of watch design to make a big watch wear comfortably by inflating the diameter, but keeping the lug-to-lug length short. Doxa is a key example of that, but sometimes it’s still not enough. Even if there’s no risk of overhang from watch lugs, the sheer size and presence of the watch can be too much for true comfort on smaller wrists. Although the 300T uses the same dimensions as the original 1960s watches, the 200T shrinks down to 39mm wide and 41.5mm from lug-to-lug. It’s also only 10.7mm thick, which is impressive for an automatic dive watch. Given the current trend towards smaller watch cases, it may also just be something that people prefer from a style standpoint over purely practical concerns.
The silhouette of the iconic cushion case is unchanged, complete with the slight sunburst effect of the brushed finish. The recessed crown screws down to secure its 200 metres of water resistance, which is a considerable downgrade from the 1200 metres of the 300T, and yet more than enough for the vast majority of watch enthusiasts. Doxa’s patented decompression bezel contributes significantly to the watch’s personality, helping divers calculate their ascent rates and avoid the bends.
The dial
Of course, one of Doxa’s most important features is its colourful dials. They haven’t gone anywhere for this release, and indeed it’s introduced a new dark green colour with a glossy sunray texture called Sea Emerald. There are a whopping 26 references for the SUB 200T at launch, ranging across eight colours, either in sunray or matte finishes. To refresh your memory, those colours are the orange Professional, the black Sharkhunter, the silver Searambler, the navy blue Caribbean, the yellow Divingstar, the teal Aquamarine, the white Whitepearl, and the brand-new green Sea Emerald. Between the colours and the texture, you can fine-tune the levels of dressiness versus sportiness you want your watch to have.
Aside from the new Sea Emerald option, the only other difference between the 200T and 300T dial is the model number printed on it. The mismatched hour and minute hands are still superbly easy to read with their triple-stripe hour markers, and the hints of a crosshair evoke some military connotations. The date window at 3 o’clock is white for every reference, and the asymmetrical sections of printed text somehow feel incredibly balanced.
The movement
Doxa prefers not to advertise which movements they use, but it’s clear that they’ve spent the last couple of years transitioning from ETA to Sellita supply. The new SUB 200T uses the Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate – perfect for a daily wearer. Its prevalence also means servicing should be easy and affordable. The winding rotor has been decorated by Doxa, however, you won’t be seeing it underneath the solid caseback.
The strap
Each colour combination of the Doxa SUB 200T is available on either its iconic beads-of-rice steel bracelet or a colour-matched rubber strap. Both of them include a ratcheting clasp to extend over a wetsuit, but the beads-of-rice bracelet just looks so right on a watch like this.
If you do have your heart set on the rubber, be aware that Doxa’s own FKM rubber straps are quite expensive to buy, but watches generally retain their value better on a bracelet. The lug width is 18mm, so there will be plenty of aftermarket options available as well.
The verdict
As a supporter of both the smaller watch trend and affordable options, I’m definitely a fan of the Doxa SUB 200T. It doesn’t make the 300T obsolete for those who prefer the insane water resistance and the chunkier size, but at the same time it doesn’t feel like a “cheap” version of a more famous model. The design holds its own and gives more people the opportunity to embrace the Doxa style.
The Doxa SUB 200T pricing and availability
The Doxa SUB 200T is now available from the Time+Tide Shop, both in our Melbourne Discovery Studio and online. Price: A$2,550 (FKM rubber), A$2,590 (BOR bracelet).
| Brand | Doxa |
| Model | SUB 200T |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 10.7 mm (T) x 41.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Professional (Orange, matte or sunray) Sharkhunter (Black, matte or sunray) Searambler (Silver, sunray) Caribbean (Navy, matte or sunray) Divingstar (Yellow, matte or sunray) Aquamarine (Teal, matte or sunray) Whitepearl (White, matte) Sea Emerald (Green, sunray) |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet Colour-matched rubber strap |
| Movement | Sellita SW200-1, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$2,550 (FKM rubber) A$2,590 (BOR bracelet) |