5 of the best diving chronographs

Fergus Nash

Chronographs and dive watches are considered important firsts in watchmaking. They are some of the most popular kinds of watches, so naturally smashing them together is going to create some magic. Whether or not you actually need to time things or explore the ocean’s depths, the mix of utility and detail-packed design is entrancing to passionate collectors and casual wearers alike.

Citizen Promaster Marine Aqualand BJ2168-01E

Now, not everything on this list can be a vintage-inspired diver with a chronograph thrown in. Representing the complete opposite end of the spectrum is the mighty Citizen Promaster Marine Aqualand BJ2168-01E, purpose-built for genuine diving. The 50.4mm case is designed to sit visibly over a wetsuit, although its 50.5mm lug-to-lug makes it surprisingly wearable on larger, bare wrists. The basic features involve the hours, minutes, date, running seconds, and a 24-hour indicator, however things get exciting once the water sensor detects you’ve gone under and switches the watch into dive mode. The 50-minute chronograph turns into an accurate depth gauge, thanks to the strange-looking sensor on the left side of the case. Price: A$1,399

Mido Ocean Star Chronograph Special Edition

The murdered-out look has got to be one of the most attractive styles for dive watches-turned-streetwear, really allowing orange and white highlights to pop. The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph’s stripped-back layout suits these colours perfectly, with the sand-toned luminous markers contrasting subtly with the printed white markings. The DLC-coated case is scratch resistant as well as beautiful, as is the ceramic bezel insert. Mido’s Calibre 60 shares a family lineage with the famous Valjoux 7750, however it’s been upgraded with a 60-hour power reserve that doesn’t sacrifice the 4Hz beat rate. Price: A$4,025 from the Time+Tide Shop

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II

It’s super common to see brightly-coloured dive watches these days, but chronographs are usually more stern. The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II is possibly the brightest that you can get, with sunburst dials in blue, orange, yellow, and teal, as well as the standard silver and black. The 42mm cases are easy to wear thanks to a 46mm lug-to-lug length, and the Sellita SW500 provides a classic, reliable chronograph architecture based on the Valjoux 7750. Built for summer and filled with vintage style cues, the SUB 200 C-Graph II is a fantastic beach companion. Price: starting from A$4,650 in the Time+Tide Shop

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

As Rolex’s younger sibling, Tudor have a lot more opportunity for experimentation. The Black Bay Chrono in its panda dial colour scheme combines one of the watch world’s most famous dials with elements of a vintage diver, and it does it with such effortless charm. Between its riveted bracelet, snowflake hands, 70-hour power reserve and COSC-certified movement, this is a sportier take on all the go-anywhere-do-anything watches out there. The 41mm case doesn’t feel too bulky with its 50mm lug-to-lug length, and the 14.6mm thickness doesn’t suffer the same slab-sidedness which turn off some people from the regular Black Bay. Price: A$8,210

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 44mm

Bold, characterful, and almost untouchable in specifications, the chronograph version of the  Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is truly captivating. Especially in the blue and grey colourway, its laser-etched ceramic dial and bright, luminous hour markers pull you into its depths. It’s packed with functions, from the hour and minute counters sharing a sub-dial to clean up the dial space, to a traveller’s setting which allows you to set the hour hand independently from the crown. It’s water resistant to 300 metres, and the ceramic chronograph pushers are actually not screwed-down despite their coin-edge bezels. The Calibre 9900 is a METAS-certified master chronometer, meaning it has undergone rigorous testing to guarantee accuracy within -0/+5 seconds per day. Price: A$14,200