INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than everFergus Nash
- The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II brings the case size down from 45mm to 42mm.
- This is the first time DOXA’s famous dial colours have been given a sunburst finish.
- It’s a fantastic option for a gender-neutral diving chronograph.
When DOXA dropped their first non-reissue chronograph back in late 2020, it was one of the first collections which signalled a big shift in Swiss watchmaking. These were undoubtedly luxury watches with fantastic quality and professional standards, but they were also fun. Fresh, summery colours were already a DOXA staple, but the SUB 200 collection with its beads-of-rice rubber strap just begged to be taken to a beach. Now, the DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II proves that sequels can also be great in watchmaking, with comfier sizing, matte bezels, and blazing sunburst dials.
Although DOXA are renowned for how well their larger cases fit average wrists, the trend of wristwatches getting smaller made the 45mm diameter of the first SUB 200 C-GRAPH quite a scary number. At 42mm wide the DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II helps soothe bulk anxieties as soon as you read the specifications, and the lug-to-lug is incredibly wrist-friendly at 46mm. This also makes it a strong contender for anyone looking at gender-neutral dive watches, given the range of colours without any overt masculinity or femininity. Of course you’re still getting that classic 1960s design language, with lyre-lug inspiration mixed with a bit of DOXA’s cushion case DNA.
Along with the decrease in size, the dials of the DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II also take things in a slightly different aesthetic direction to avoid treading over the same ground. All of DOXA’s famous colours, with Whitepearl in the place of Searambler, have been transformed by sunburst brushing that gives them a bright, sherbet-like quality. Importantly, this is the first time that anything other than the Searambler has been produced with a textured dial. The temptation is to say that the DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is made dressier because of that change, however the use of brushed steel bezel inserts firmly retains its tool-watch reputation. The exception to that would be with the Sharkhunter and Caribbean colour schemes, whose respective black and blue ceramic bezels make them quite a versatile pairing in more formal settings. The Whitepearl model is the only reference with a choice between ceramic or steel bezel inserts.
Reflecting the refined approach, these watches are paired with a smooth rubber strap in place of the older collection’s beads-of-rice textured rubber, however if you prefer beads-of-rice then you can of course still purchase it on the steel bracelet. The 20mm lug width does thankfully lend itself to experimentation too, should you wish to try out some other straps. DOXA don’t like to specify their choice of movements, and thanks to the iconic fish caseback design you can’t see it without opening it up. However, the first SUB 200 C-GRAPH used a Sellita SW500 variant which is a clone of the ETA 7750, and given they both share the 56 hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate it is most likely the same movement.
The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II pricing and availability:
The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is slightly more expensive than the previous generation, showing an increase of US$100 across both rubber and bracelet models. They will be available from DOXA’s website and authorised dealers around the end of April 2023. Price: US$2,950 (Rubber) / US$2,990 (Bracelet)
|SUB 200 C-GRAPH II
|42mm x 46mm x 15.85mm
|Orange, yellow, turquoise, silver, black, blue
|Rubber strap or beads-of-rice bracelet
|Sellita SW500 variant
|Available from the end of April 2023
|US$2,950 (Rubber) / US$2,990 (Bracelet)