Vacheron Constantin applies subtle bling to the Overseas Tourbillon High JewelleryBorna Bošnjak
- The Holy Trinity brand outfits a white gold, blue-dialled Overseas Tourbillon with baguette-cut diamonds for the first time.
- The Maltese cross-shaped bezel sports 60 gems, while the dial and buckle feature another nine and 16 diamonds, respectively.
- The 42.5mm white gold case houses a 5.65mm tall tourbillon calibre with a peripheral winding rotor.
The number of truly tastefully executed diamond-set watches that go further than just embedding tiny round-cut diamonds into the indices can likely be counted on one hand. Now, let’s not confuse cool and tasteful – a Daytona 6269 is cool, but it sure as hell ain’t tasteful. Vacheron Constantin’s new Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery, however, is both of those things. Counting 85 invisibly set, baguette-cut diamonds in its bezel, dial and buckle, the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery could have easily been just another blinged-out watch for those who feel a 42.5mm white gold tourbillon isn’t flashy enough. And yet, it isn’t.
Vacheron have limited the use of diamonds on the case to the Maltese cross-inspired bezel, using 60 of them to highlight its shape, with an additional 16 baguettes available when switching to one of the alternative straps that come bundled with the watch. In proper stealth-wealth fashion, the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery is crafted in 18k white gold, a material rarely used in the model range, and prior to this only available in the Perpetual Calendar. It’s worth noting that this isn’t a small watch – if you’re familiar with the current Overseas models, you’ll know that they wear quite large – and the same is true for the 42.5mm Overseas Tourbillon variant. It does make up for some of that size with the 10.39mm thickness – a commendable thickness for a brawny sports watch.
For those wanting to make the best use of the Overseas’ sportiness, Vacheron also supplies it with two blue straps – one in calf leather, and the other one in rubber – with an interchangeable 18k white gold buckle clad with baguettes. Certainly not the sportiest option considering the blingy buckle, but it will help reduce weight, should that ever be a consideration, when compared to the hefty 18k white gold integrated bracelet.
One of the undisputed feature that make the Overseas so damn attractive is the lucent blue dial. Its multi-level finish involves a sunburst-satin base, onto which Vacheron apply a translucent blue lacquer layer, giving it its signature depth. All of the dial appliqués are white gold – as are the hands – but the indices have been treated to a baguette-cut diamond each. The main event, however, is certainly the large tourbillon aperture that takes up the majority of the lower portion of the dial. It shows off the 60-second, Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon within, with a cleverly integrated small seconds indicator in the form of a single blued screw.
Let’s talk about that tourbillon movement a little more. The Calibre 2160 isn’t exactly new, debuting in 2018 with the Traditionnelle Tourbillon, but it is the brand’s very first self-winding tourbillon. It tops up its 80-hour power reserve with the help of a 22k gold peripheral rotor, allowing a clear view of the countersunk screws and côtes de Genève applied to the plates, as well as the Poinçon de Genève proudly displayed on the Y-shaped going train. What it also allows is a much thinner movement, as an additional plane for a winding rotor is not required, slimming it down to just 5.65mm. While most of the decoration is hidden when on the wrist, Vacheron makes sure to show off their hand-finishing know-how with the hand-polished tourbillon bridge, taking 12 working hours to finish.
There is little Vacheron Constantin could do to make a high-end tourbillon watch have more mass-appeal, so why not make a model that’s targeting an even more niche audience? Diamonds done well are a rarity, and the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery is a great example of that. My favourite part have to be the large baguettes replacing the indices – it’s a subtle way of making a special watch even more special. I almost wish that was the only instance of diamond-setting – that would make this watch a no-brainer stealth-wealth champion in my books.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery pricing and availability
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery is available now. Price is on request.
|Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery
|42.5mm (D) x 10.39mm (T)
|18k white gold
|Sapphire front and back
|Translucent blue lacquer, 18k white gold and diamond markers
|18k white gold Maltese cross bracelet, 18k white gold triple-blade clasp
Blue calfskin leather and blue rubber straps, 18k white gold triple-folding clasp with 16 baguette-cut diamonds
|Calibre 2160, in-house, automatic, peripheral winding rotor
|Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon