HANDS-ON: The CIGA Design Blue Planet Gilding Version is the brand’s golden child
Borna BošnjakSmash-hit stories with humble beginnings are often followed up, with these sequels looking to capitalise on the triumphs of the original. There are, however, varying degrees of success when it comes to these, and the associated risk of oversaturation. I think the saying is “flogging a dead horse”. Either way, this strangely worded introduction serves to describe the challenge CIGA Design’s latest release is facing. Unless you’ve been living under a chaton, you would’ve caught wind of the Blue Planet, CIGA Design’s truly unique proposition of a globe-dialled watch with custom-designed movement gearing. Not only is it undisputable proof of the might of Chinese watchmaking, recognised by and inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, but it also won the 2021 Challenge Watch Prize at the GPHG. For a brand with little history, facing the prejudice against Asian-based production, this was an outstanding achievement, and one they deserved, as the original watch was really quite great, save for its less than cuff-friendly proportions. The CIGA Design Blue Planet Gilding Version is that follow-up, with the brand packing even more value into an already compelling proposition. Let’s get right into it.
The dial
The dial is the main party trick of any Blue Planet, though I’m more inclined to call this one the Golden Planet – that one’s for free, CIGA Design. The accurately engraved relief map that originally combined a silver sheen against a blue backdrop now adopts a gold and black colour scheme. Engraved on a CNC machine, the entire dial blank is treated to stabilise its surface for the electroplating step that sees layers of 24k gold impressed on the map. CIGA Design claims that nearly half of the dials fail at some point in the manufacturing process, making the already long procedure that much more time and cost consuming.
The gold highlights continue to the minute and hour tracks, with the raised indices painted to reflect the map. The gold and black contrast against each other well, which aids the legibility of the Blue Planet Gilded Version. While it’s certainly not my best photographic work, the image above perfectly encapsulates why this watch is awesome, and at the same time, kind of frustrating. First of all, just look at it! There aren’t many watches out there that really look comparable – save for something like a Greubel Forsey on which a bracelet costs as much as a C-Class Mercedes (I am not joking). The domed sapphire and domed dial add so much presence, and at certain angles, the middle portion looks like it’s sitting completely unobstructed by a crystal. This extreme dome, however, accompanied by the little to no AR coating makes it difficult to read at many angles, and especially so in direct light.
I feel this is also the point where I should clarify how to tell the time on it, which is really not as difficult as it seems. Look to the point of the compass rose, and match up the times on the outer minute and hour markings. In the image above, it’s 12:26.
The case
Apart from the gold-covered dial, the CIGA Design Blue Planet Gilded Version has another trick up its non-existent lugs. The case is manufactured in shiny black ceramic – in my opinion a perfect luxe upgrade to a watch of this type. Ceramic can often feel less premium than the material markups suggest, though I’m happy to report there’s none of that shiny plastic feel here. The 46mm diameter and 15.2mm tall (sapphire included) construction sits like a pebble on the wrist, as there are no lugs whatsoever, the bracelet wrapping underneath the case. The smooth, glossy finish of the case and nearly seamless transitions between it and the crystal are a pleasure on-wrist, despite its unusual profile and proportions.
The knobby crown offers plenty of grip, though my gripe with it remains as with the original – I wish that CIGA Design integrated it into the overall design a bit better. The result would be the perfect murdered-out chonky flying saucer.
The strap
To go along with the ceramic case, CIGA Design also includes a flat-link ceramic bracelet. It’s wonderfully executed and comfortable on-wrist, though I do yearn for some micro-adjustments which are difficult to execute with the gold-tone butterfly clasp. The links overlap in such a way that they minimise the amount of visible space in between the links, though their articulation isn’t affected in any way. There’s also a nice taper in the first four links, making it even friendlier to smaller wrists. I do wonder whether CIGA Design could’ve gone with something other than a pin-and-collar system for adjustments, as it makes bracelet sizing a bit of a pain, though I do understand there are cost limitations to be considered, especially so in a watch like this.
Should you prefer something sportier, the Gilding Version also comes with the same excellent fluoro-rubber strap as with the original, black in colour with hardware to match. This was my favourite way of wearing the original and the Gilding Version, though I would be interested in pairing this with other straps, as it still retains a standard 22mm lug width.
The movement
A quick look at the display caseback of the Blue Planet Gilding Version, and you may think you’re looking at an ETA 2824. Your eyes do not deceive you, as its architecture is identical to the Swiss workhorse, but CIGA’s reluctance to state its origins tells me that this is a Seagull ST2130, a Chinese-manufactured clone. I certainly hope this doesn’t deter buyers, as our review unit ran at an excellent +2 seconds per day. Other specs include an okay 40-hour power reserve and a beat rate of 28,800 vph.
The CIGA-customised calibre is where the magic of the display hides as well. The gearing is toothed for a 390-degree rotation of the minute disc, while the globe rotates only 30 degrees. It still features a ghost date position, and while it’s by no means haute horlogerie, I am glad CIGA Design includes a display caseback as it contributes to the whole space-age feel of the watch.
The verdict
If the original Blue Planet was the child prodigy, the Gilding Version is its more settled-down and grown-up version, though it has lost little of its award-winning spirit. I’m happy to see CIGA Design experimenting with more luxury-oriented materials, as the ceramic case and bracelet were a pleasant surprise – I expected PVD-coated steel, if I’m honest. While it certainly has its quirks, related to both design and user-friendliness, I cannot think of another watch that achieves what this one does at its price point. This leaves my verdict unchanged from its predecessor – whether it’s too much of a novelty or an excellent value proposition undercutting some big guns is up to you and the rest of your collection, but it certainly brought a big smile to my face every time I wore it.
CIGA Design Blue Planet Gilding Version pricing and availability:
The CIGA Design Blue Planet Gilding Version is available now from CIGA Design. From March 15th to April 15th, use discount code CIGA2023 to receive $100 USD off the total price. Price: US$1,799 (price using discount), US$1,899 (early bird price)
| Brand | CIGA Design |
| Model | Series U Blue Planet Gilding Version |
| Case Dimensions | 46mm (D) x 15.2mm (T) x 46mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Ceramic |
| Water Resistance | 3 atm |
| Dial | Black with 24k gold coated relief map |
| Crystal(s) | Double-domed sapphire crystal |
| Strap | Ceramic bracelet with PVD gold stainless steel butterfly clasp Additional fluoro-rubber strap included |
| Movement | CIGA Design customised ETA 2824 clone |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | Now, early bird pricing until 14/03/23 |
| Price | US$1,799 (discount code), US$1,899 (early bird), US$2,199 (regular) |