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Taking to the skies – these are 6 of the best flieger watches

Taking to the skies – these are 6 of the best flieger watches

Buffy Acacia

The flieger style of pilot’s watches has its roots in World War II, however, they’ve since outgrown their origins and taken on a life of their own. Where they were once made to fulfil a simple purpose, now you can even get ones with perpetual calendars and tourbillons. They’re not made to fit over flight jackets anymore either, meaning that you can find them in sizes to suit any wrist. From most affordable to most expensive, here are some of the best current flieger watches.

Seiko 5 SRPH29

Seiko 5 SRPH29

Taking over from the now-discontinued line of SNK references, the SRPH collection borrows many of its design elements from Type B fliegers of the early ‘40s. Most notable is the triangle at 12 o’clock and the five-minute increments placed most prominently outside the hour markers. The hands are a hybrid of sword and syringe styles that definitely evoke a military aesthetic, and the day/date display offers a classic bit of Seiko 5 functionality at an affordable price. At 39.4mm in diameter, 48.1mm lug-to-lug, and with 100 metres of water resistance, the case is both versatile and durable. Price: US$295

Dekla Pilot Watch 40

Dekla Pilot Watch 40 Flieger Type A

If you’re after a sterile dial on your flieger and perhaps want some customisation options, then Dekla is definitely the choice for you. This little-known German brand offers a heap of variety in either Type A or B dials, with options for dial details, case finishing, engraving, and more. Each watch is then assembled to order with your choice of ETA or Sellita hand-wound or automatic movements. The case has been subtly redesigned for comfort in all of the diameters, but the 40mm is most likely the popular choice with a 47.1mm lug-to-lug length. Price: €630 (~US$650)

Stowa Flieger Bronze Vintage 40

Stowa Flieger Bronze 40

One of the original manufacturers of the B-Uhr flieger watches is Stowa, though its price range usually sits above other affordable flieger-heavy brands. This particular watch features heat-blued hands, a sterile dial, a choice of Sellita automatic or hand-wound movements, and most significantly a CuSn8 bronze case. The popularity of bronze cases on vintage style watches is an interesting anachronism as they’re a relatively new concept, however, the patina they acquire does evoke a sense of age and possibly even a brass case with its chrome plating worn off. If you’re looking for something that has both heritage and originality, this one’s for you. Price: €1,450 (~US$1,500)

Laco Dortmund Erbstük

Laco Dortmund Erbstük

It’s impossible to overlook Laco when browsing for fliegers of all price points, as it’s also one of the original brands that manufactured them during the second World War. This watch looks like it was rescued from the cockpit of a WWII crash site, and each one is hand-finished to a unique state of destruction. Some may ask why you would want to buy a watch which comes pre-aged like ripped jeans, but there’s an artistry to the aged lume, faded dial, and crusty case that tells its own story. This 45mm version of the Type B dial is my particular favourite, getting about as large as possible before you should start wearing it over a leather jacket. Price: US$2,500

Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol

Fortis Flieger F 43 Bicompax Petrol

The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax is one of very few flieger watches that successfully adapts the genre into a contemporary style without feeling cheesy or pointless. It captures the stern nature of a military pilot’s chronograph, reducing any unnecessary markings for the sake of clarity, but the petrol dial colour in particular gives it a flashy side. The 43mm case is 200 metres water resistant, made of stainless steel, and houses an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW510. It’s a big watch with a larger personality, and that’s exactly what makes it such a worthy successor to the original fliegers. Price: US$3,820

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

Stepping into the realm of flieger chronographs, IWC pretty much claims the title. The classic layout and simple appeal that adds a touch of the ’90s is punctuated by the running seconds sub-dial’s red hand and the day-date display. The bracelet makes it versatile for casual and more formal events, and the calibre 69385 is a column-wheel chronograph with 46 hours of power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. These movements were introduced in 2016, and represent a sharp jump in quality and craftsmanship from their Valjoux-based predecessors. The blue dial is a nice contemporary twist on the flieger stereotype, too. Price: US$7,700

Time+Tide Timeless Pick: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 2003
An IWC Big Pilot’s Watch reference 3082610 from c.2003. Image courtesy of Christie’s.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is the quintessential luxury flieger, unashamed of excessive lug-to-lug lengths and being as bold as it can be. Yes it’s still a model you can buy from the current IWC catalogue, but there have been so many fantastic references over the years that it had to be the Timeless Pick. Of course, its roots stretch back to the ‘40s, so you should be aware where those earliest watches came from, but there’s a lot of personality and value to find among vintage examples. Second hand prices can range from ~US$5,000 for an automatic version, while more complicated movements involving perpetual calendars and precious metals creep into the high five-figure territory easily.