WATCHES & WONDERS: Rolex drops some big surprises amongst its novelties for 2022
Fergus NashEditor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include videos, live pics, and our hands-on perspective. But for now let’s run through each of the new watches – here is our Rolex collection overview for Watches & Wonders 2022.
Air King
The Rolex Air King has long been lauded as one of the brand’s most underrated models. It’s quirkiness has always been one of its biggest charms as well as turn-offs, with the mix of Explorer-style at three, six and nine and five-minute divisions across the other positions. Now, the Air King has been revitalised to fit Rolex’s modern standards of their Professional range, and it may begin an Air King hype train.
The first major change that brings a sigh of relief to most people who’ve seen the older reference 116900 is the addition of a “0” before the “5” minute indicator, balancing that spot on the dial with the “55” as opposed to the oddly clipped look of the previous generation. The next is the addition of crown guards, which instantly modernises the look and swings it further into a sporty category, instead of a dressy watch with sporty flair. Thirdly, the recent Rolex Perpetual Calibre 3230 replaces the old 3131 and increases the power reserve from 48 to 70 hours, as well as improving on shock resistance and anti-magnetic technologies.
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm |
| Water-Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Straps | Steel bracelet |
| Movement | Calibre 3230 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Price | $10,350 AUD |
Yacht-Master 42
In a move that delves deep into the lavish luxury that the Rolex Yacht-Master represents, the big personality watch is now available in yellow gold. In recent years, the dominance of rose gold or pink gold set yellow gold aside for fear of tackiness, however the tide seems to be swinging the other way now. Black and gold is always going to be a phenomenal colour combination, allowing the lustre of the gold to really stand out, while the blacked-out, raised-numeral, ceramic bezel cements the Yacht-Master as a 21st Century watch.
The Yacht-Master is a dive watch in theme only, as Rolex are under no misconceptions as to who this watch is for. The screw-down crown is water resistant enough for swimming or snorkelling at 100m, and the elapsed timing bezel is bi-directional for ultimate ease of use in day-to-day timing — there’s no worries about accidentally running out of oxygen here. The Oysterflex rubber strap guarantees comfort for any situation, especially with the addition of their fantastic Glidelock system included in the buckle for on-the-fly adjustment.
| Case Material | 18k Yellow Gold |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm x 50mm x 11.5 mm |
| Water-Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Straps | Black Oysterflex |
| Movement | Calibre 3235 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Price | $39,950 AUD |
Yacht-Master 40
Just in case you needed any more proof that that Yacht-Master is about luxury before utility, the new Rolex Yacht-Master 40 complete with a diamond and sapphire-set bezel and case is a dazzling light show of opulence and give-a-damn attitude. The blue, pink and white colours are said to evoke the glow of dawn and aurora borealis, and perhaps unintentionally echo the transgender flag.
The array of gemstones are surprisingly subtle considering the amount of bling on offer, with the soft colour palette easing into the 18k white gold case and the black dial flying somewhat under the radar. The black Oysterflex strap also keeps things relatively calm, letting the head of the watch speak for itself. The 40mm size is perfect for the loudness of the watch, with a 47mm lug-to-lug ensuring easy wearability.
| Case Material | 18k White Gold |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 47mm x 11.5mm |
| Water-Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Straps | Black Oysterflex |
| Movement | Calibre 3235 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Price | TBA |
GMT-Master II Left Handed
To admit my bias right off the bat, I am left handed and I wear watches on my right wrist. The release of a left-handed configuration of the Rolex GMT-Master II is absolutely shocking, yet fills me with complete joy regardless of how cross-eyed it makes me. Green also just happens to be my favourite colour, so the fact that this watch features Rolex’s first green and black bi-colour bezel insert just tips the scale for my obsession.
While the reversed crown and date position may take some time to get used to, the flipping of the movement wasn’t as simple as just turning the date wheel numerals upside down. Even the process for Superlative Chronometer certification had to be modified to suit the new positions of components. The Calibre 3285 performs over its 70 hour power reserve with a 28,800vph beat rate and to Rolex’s strict timekeeping standards, making this potentially the best left-handed watch on the market.
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 48mm x 12mm |
| Water-Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Straps | Steel bracelet |
| Movement | Calibre 3285 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
| Price | $15,500 AUD |
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date has long represented the pinnacle of Rolex’s classy watches, no matter how much attention gets drawn to the Cellini as their forgotten dress watch. Part of what makes the watch so special is the fluted bezel, which has always been made out of gold. Now, the new version of the Day-Date is formed entirely out of 950 platinum including the fluted bezel, taking this watch to the very top of what precious metal luxury watches Rolex has to offer.
The ice-blue dial is the big giveaway that this is a platinum rather than a steel or white-gold watch from afar, so that you can convey to everyone in the know exactly how special the watch you’re wearing is. The classical looks with the Roman numerals broaches the modern and vintage design languages for a truly timeless watch, along with the iconic President style bracelet.
| Case Material | 950 Platinum |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 47.4mm x 12mm |
| Water-Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Ice Blue |
| Straps | Platinum bracelet |
| Movement | Calibre 3255 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day |
| Price | Price on request |
Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31
Rolex will occasionally release a graphic dial in their Datejust or Oyster Perpetual range as a cute curiosity, like the palm-leaf safari dial from 2021. Now in 2022, the 31mm variety of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust has been treated to three brand new floral dials in blue and steel, green and gold, and silver and two-tone.
Distinctly feminine yet refreshingly different, the Datejust 31 floral dials are enveloping to look at thanks to the mix of brushed, sunburst and stippled finishes on each of the flowers’ petals to create a great sense of contrast. Within the centre of each flower there is a diamond set, and the green and silver models have an additional 46 brilliant-cut diamonds set within their respective bezels. The in-house calibre 2236 is just as well-performing as its bigger models, with the only major difference being a shorter power reserve of 55 hours.
| Case Material | Stainless Steel / Yellow Gold / Rose Gold and Stainless Steel |
| Case Dimensions | 31mm x 10.4mm |
| Water-Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Blue / Green / Silver floral |
| Straps | Steel / Gold / Two-tone bracelet |
| Movement | Calibre 2236 |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Price | $14,200 AUD / $58,500 AUD / $27,400 AUD |