The Time+Tide team picks their one-watch collection
Time+TideEditor’s note: Seven opinions, one watch. The Time+Tide Editorial Team has come together to nominate what they believe to be the best one-watch collection. What does this mean? For those burdened with the sickness of watch-collecting it means the impossible. But, as a thought experiment, the team selects the one watch they would have if it was the only one in their collection. You all once shared with us your votes for a one-watch collection. What will each editor or contributor prioritise in their decision? Find out below…
Jamie’s pick: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Anyone who knows me shouldn’t be surprised that I’ve picked this watch. I’m on the record as being a big ol’ Vacheron simp, and I’ve long maintained that the Overseas Dual Time Everest is my grail (my horological Everest, as it were). That would be my “one watch”, but there’s a solid case to be made that the Overseas Dual Time in its standard stainless steel guise is superior as a one watch choice to the rarer Everest variant.
Complication aside, the Overseas is already the ideal one watch for many reasons: it’s the perfect combination of sporty and dressy, and its class-leading quick-change strap system makes it exceptionally versatile. Beautifully finished inside and out – befitting a creation of one of the great houses of watchmaking – there’s enough to excite even the most fastidious of WIS. It’s rarer and more demure than its Holy Trinity rivals, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, too – it’s also a lot more comfortable to wear.
But there’s also a method to my madness in picking out the Dual Time variant in particular. Firstly, it’s an exceedingly useful complication: again, I’m on the record saying that I love GMT watches but that’s because I simply think it’s one of the most romantic yet practical complications, especially if you travel frequently or work with colleagues across multiple time zones (like I do). The Overseas Dual Time’s take on the GMT formula is also particularly user-friendly, with its AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock and date advance pusher at 4 o’clock. It also retains 150 metres of water resistance, giving it proper sports watch credentials. And it’s a complication that suits the character of the watch – I mean, it’s called the Overseas; it’s a watch inspired by the glamour of international travel…
Yet it’s also a rather subdued complication. Chronographs can lean too sporty, tourbillons are very busy (as are openworked watches) and perpetual calendars hamper legibility. The Dual Time adds a touch of visual complexity to the Overseas without being overly tool-watch-y – indeed, I think its use of a date hand rather than a date window like its time-only or chronograph siblings gives it an extra air of class. Also, compared to the Everest, the rich lacquered dials of the stainless steel Dual Time models swing the balance back towards dressiness.
Speaking of balancing acts, I think any candidate for a one watch needs to straddle the line between being desirable and distinctive, but not so ostentatious that it will attract the wrong sort of attention. It also can’t be too ridiculously expensive. In that sense, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time makes sense: a more “in the know” watch than a Rolex GMT-Master, Royal Oak or Nautilus – as well as being easier to cop at retail than any of those watches – it’s not exactly cheap but for what you get, it’s a lot of watch for the money. Or maybe I’m just drinking my own Kool-Aid.
Buffy’s pick: Cartier Pasha
I know that pretty much everyone has sold a watch that they regret selling, but the Cartier Pasha ref. 1033 haunts me on a pretty much daily basis. It was a watch that I bought mostly on a whim, taking advantage of an amazing deal, and fell in love with hard and fast. I had two custom leather straps made for it in brown and blue, and I was lucky enough to have it serviced by Cartier for free when they were promoting the Pasha’s re-release.
I understand that it’s a hideous design by most people’s standards, and certainly an acquired taste. But, that’s exactly where my tastes lie. The 18k gold diving bezel with those curvaceous numerals is enchanting, and the blued hands work with the blue of the sapphire cabochon on the canteen crown spectacularly. I always associate blue and gold with magic and mystery, and the 1033 really feels to me like a watch that a wizard would wear.
I initially sold it so that I could buy a Cartier Tank Basculante, but I ended up selling that watch only a month or two after buying it once the honeymoon phase ran out. I attempted to buy it back from the person I sold it to, but they (understandably) didn’t want to part with it. I couldn’t afford to buy any of the others on the market, so I’ve just morbidly window-shopped the Pasha range ever since. I currently own a Cartier Santos Octagon, which has definitely helped fill the two-tone Cartier hole in my heart, but I’ll forever be restless until I’m reunited with my one and only Pasha 1033. If my current collection was worth enough to buy one, I’d sell them all in a heartbeat.
Borna’s pick: Universal Genève Polerouter Deluxe 10357/3 or Rolex Explorer 1016/6610 Albino
Yes, I completely understand that this is not how the game works, but I’ve been truly indecisive when it came to picking between the following three watches. There’s good reason for that, because this list is about money-no-object one-watch collections. Had we suggested we go for even a hint of realism, I would’ve picked a gilt-dialled Rolex Explorer ref. 1016, and that would’ve been it. Seeing as that’s not the case, you’ll have to bear with me.
Let’s start with the Universal Genève. I firmly believe it to be the most beautiful watch ever made, and I’ve got a sneaking suspicion I’m not the only one. Don’t get me wrong, my gold-capped Polerouter is just fine, but the solid gold case and cleaned-up dial of the Deluxe 10357/3 is even more special. But why isn’t this a clear winner? Well, I don’t think it’s versatile enough. The micro-rotor movements are not the sturdiest, and getting them serviced is not easy – I’ve experienced the wonders of this myself.
So, is there a watch out there that has enough cache for it to be cool to enthusiasts, rare enough so it’s not an everyday occurrence on your Instagram feed, but still sturdy enough to be worn daily? To the Rolex Explorer we go, then. I’m not shy about admitting that modern Rolex does nothing for me, but the charm surrounding certain vintage examples is undeniable. Are there cooler, rarer, and more special watches out there? Absolutely, but to me, the 6610 and 1016 era of the Explorer are as good as it gets for a one-watch collection.
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This being a money-no-object exercise, I picked the Rolex Space-Dweller. Or have I? Recently, there’s been plenty of online debate regarding the authenticity of the Space-Dweller as a whole, and Rolex has never confirmed the infamous Japanese market testing origin story. Such discourse isn’t uncommon when it comes to vintage Rolex – the GMT Blueberry being another famous example. For some, this may just make the whole package even more appealing considering the drama around it. For me, the effect was quite the opposite, so naturally I pivoted to something even more rare – an albino dial Explorer. For the sake of the exercise, let’s say my ideal albino Explorer would be a 1970s 1016, with the most up-to-date movement for that reference. Now, no such example has even surfaced on the market, but considering someone might figure out none of these albino dials are legit (or likely sold as spare parts like the Space-Dweller), who knows what might show up at auction.
D.C.’s pick: Tudor Black Bay 58 925
First things first: I’m vehemently opposed to the idea of a “one-watch collection”. That’s for quitters. I mean, variety is the spice of life, and the vast world of watches ripe for the collecting is too great for me to be tied down to one measly timepiece. If I was a normal person, one who merely wanted “one nice watch”, I’d be done already. That’s not my definition of a collector. Do I have too many watches? Absolutely. And despite my constant culling and refining of the stable (a hearty “you’re welcome” to my own offspring and nephews), limiting myself to some mythical “Chosen One” is a non-starter. But fine, I’ll play along.
My choice comes not from a Holy Trinity brand, but from one far less lofty. Ever see Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade? In that popcorn classic, Indy susses out the Holy Grail where all others have failed, saving his father Henry (played by the inimitable Sean Connery) from certain doom in the process. He chose wisely, selecting a humble cup amongst a host of precious, bejewelled contender chalices, finally recognising the “cup of a carpenter”. And my cup is something of a carpenter’s choice, too, as you’ll soon see.
At my core, I’m a tool watch guy. Not that I don’t have a few nice dress watches, but if I’m limiting myself to just one, then it has to be able to take some abuse. The watches I reach for most often have a few common traits: great dimensions, a modicum of real-world water resistance, a robust movement, fantastic legibility, and just below those boxes on the checklist, a timing bezel. But for my one-and-done, I want it to be a little more special, without flying too high into the stratosphere. Because realistically, if my watch retails for north of six figures, I’m never leaving the damn house. So the upper crust brands are out, and along with them, the vintage grails. In fact, any vintage watch is probably not a candidate, due to their inherent fragility. So after a good ten seconds of reflection, I nailed it: the relatively humble Tudor Black Bay 58, specifically, the 925 model in silver alloy.
It’s all there: a 39 mm case, a highly legible dial with modern lume, a fantastic, neutral dial and bezel colour, a COSC-certified movement, a 200-metre depth rating, and one of the best bezel actions you could ever hope to mindlessly spin ad infinitum. But it’s that silver case material that cranks the Marshall stack to 11. Here’s a legitimate precious metal timepiece, but one that eschews the look-at-me glitz of yellow gold. I’ve always preferred white metals, and if you ever get hands-on with the 925, you’ll find it has a weight, substance, and true luxury feel that you don’t get with steel. The silver unquestionably renders it worthy of suit and tie, at least in an action-hero sort of way. The metal seems to glow from within, making it an indisputable all-occasion choice. In fact, it glows like a holy grail.
Tom’s pick: Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue
To me, to have just one single watch is a challenging prospect. I need the watch to be more versatile than anything else, fulfilling a multitude of job roles but not overly functional. First and foremost, it has to look exceptional. It doesn’t have to be a tool watch because I’m wearing it every day, it can get scratched up, I don’t care – if anything that adds to the charm. But it has to be a watch that every time I look at it, I find it captivating. I also want an element of “if you know, you know” about it. I don’t want to go down the usual Rolex routes here; I want something that can become a signature for me, something I can wear until I’m grey and old, and will be “Tom’s watch”. I also don’t want a date window; I don’t want the watch to fulfil a multitude of functions; if I did, I’d just buy a G-Shock. But it does have to be a manually wound mechanical watch, I want to have that constant connection with it, winding and setting.
My choice would be the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue. At 40mm, it’s the ideal size, be that being worn with a suit, or t-shirt and jeans. It’s sporty enough that it can be a great daily wearer, but it also has that classy dress-watch appeal that you can wear to dinner and not look out of place. The pebble-style case is made from highly polished grade 5 titanium, meaning it looks fantastic but is highly durable and light. Inside the case resides the beautifully finished Calibre LF116.01 manually wound movement, with a long 80-hour power reserve. I love the fact that it’s not that well-known that Laurent Ferrier makes some of the best movements in the industry. Lastly, blue being my favourite colour, the Classic Origin nails it with the gradient opaline dial.
Russell’s pick: Hermès Cut
I know, this is an incredibly left field choice given it’s a watch that has only been out for mere moments. But having been lucky enough to handle the watch twice during Watches & Wonders, it appeared to tick pretty much every box for me. While I still have a deep passion for all things haute horlogerie, whether it be high watchmaking at big brands or creativity from the independents, the mix of simplicity, functionality and design flair that is combined in this watch makes it an easy choice for me.
Would I miss my Tudor and my Universal Genève? Yes. Of course I would. But I think in this dressy sports watch, I have the best of both worlds. I get a decent, every day water resistance of 100 metres, while maintaining a thin profile and small case size (only 36mm), with a unique design that allows it to be dressed up or down. It’s a watch that I could easily take on long walks, wear it to the office or slip it under the cuff of a suit for special occasions. It doesn’t scream sports watch, like a rotating diving bezel might, which gives it far more versatility in terms of where and when it can be be worn.
It also comes with one of the easiest to use quick change strap systems I’ve ever come across. And while I’m not one to change my straps out often right now, if I’m stuck with one watch, you better believe I’m going to be changing that strap out fairly regularly. Is the model still slightly unproven? Maybe. But the H1912 calibre has been around for a good few years now, and being based on a Vaucher ébauche places it in good stead. Will I change my mind the next time I’m handed a neo-vintage Lange at a watch meet? Very possibly, but for now, I’m happy with the Hermès Cut.
Zach’s pick: Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”
With a one-watch collection, you need one watch that can do it all. And that watch is, without any hesitation in my mind, the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake. A 100-metre water-resistant titanium watch, it is undeniably robust enough to be a daily-wearer. With its Zaratsu finishing, though, it is handsome enough to be a formal-wearer as well. Both of those elements considered, it is the definition of robust elegance – offering the all-rounded versatility a one-watch requires. Speaking of versatility, the pure white Snowflake dial is a certified icon that goes with any wardrobe. The smoothly sweeping blued central seconds hand offers a calming serenity as it glides across the snowy landscape of the dial. And, with Spring Drive, you have unparalleled accuracy that will last over time. You can do activities with this watch without fear of putting the movement under too much shock and stress. Furthermore, I love that Grand Seiko remains an if-you-know-you-know watch you can safely travel with – without the fear of a machete hacking your wrist off. Everybody above needs two or three paragraphs to justify their picks and satiate the doubt creeping into their minds. I will not even break a sweat here, this is the one watch anybody actually needs to experience all of the best watchmaking has to offer.