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9 of the best white gold watches

9 of the best white gold watches

Buffy Acacia

White gold is an odd material when you think about it. Even to a trained eye it’s almost indistinguishable from stainless steel, it’s less durable, and it costs way more. The only advantages it has are the paler hue and the romantic notion of a precious metal, which admittedly can charm even the most cynical of minds. At the end of the day, it’s got that ‘when you know, you know’, stealth wealth factor that’s undeniable. Here are 9 of the best white gold watches to prove it.

Chopard L.U.C XPS

Chopard L U C XPS black white gold

You’ll struggle to be frugal when shopping for white gold – however, there are some watches that could still be considered bargains. The L.U.C XPS is among Chopard’s flagship line of watches, offering the very best of the historic brand. The calibre L.U.C 96.12-L is manufactured in-house and chronometer-certified by COSC, with a smooth beat rate of 4Hz and a 65-hour power reserve. Through the sapphire caseback you’ll see its 22k gold micro-rotor which keeps the watch wound automatically, topping up the two coaxial mainspring barrels. Then there’s the simple yet powerful dial with its black sunburst finish emanating from the Chopard logo, the Art Deco handset, and the small seconds subdial offering up clean and elegant beauty. In a 40mm case of 18k white gold, it’s a masterclass in execution, for a relatively reasonable price. Price: US$19,000

Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex 1908 2

In early 2023, Rolex made an uncharacteristically radical move by releasing an entirely new model that wasn’t a sports watch. The Perpetual 1908 replaced the moribund Cellini line of dress watches with an appropriately old-school look, loosely based on the first-ever Rolex Oyster Perpetual from 1931. The newer features are the rounder case, the coin-edge bezel, the applied indices and the Breguet-inspired hour hand. Powered by the in-house calibre 7140, it’s one of very few Rolex watches to actually feature an exhibition caseback for appreciating the movement’s fine finishing. Of course, you get all the benefits of Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification across its 66-hour power reserve, but the main novelty is being able to buy a brand-new Rolex with the charm of a vintage dress watch. The 39mm diameter hits the Goldilocks zone too, balancing between contemporary wrist presence and last century’s class. Price: US$28,800

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm

vacheron constantin historiques american 1921

Few releases of Vacheron Constantin summarise the brand’s ability to be eccentric and sophisticated in equal measure as the Historiques American 1921. As the economy of post-war North America soared, automobiles were becoming a part of daily life. Manufactured specifically for the American market, Vacheron Constantin produced an angled wristwatch in a cushion case that was easier to read when your arms were in front of you. Those ‘driving watches’ have now been recreated here in a variety of sizes and materials, and the 36.5mm reference in white gold gets my pick for its vintage accuracy. The Breguet hands and numerals lend it a gorgeous classicism on the parchment-textured silver dial, and the manually-wound calibre 4400 AS boasts a 65-hour power reserve, a 4Hz beat rate and the Geneva Seal to certify the high standards of its finishing. Price: US$33,400

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P

Although white gold is no longer suitable for the extreme thinness of the world’s thinnest watch battle, it’s still capable of impressive feats. If you’re unfamiliar with Piaget and wondering why you can see half of the movement packed in with the dial, it’s because Piaget is known for its ultra-thin watches. The entire Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic is only 4.3mm thick, which is thinner than even the domed crystals of some watches. The 910P movement and dial have become one to save space, also integrating the 18k white gold case for a depiction of luxury and technical achievement like no other. It almost disappears when seen from a side view, but the 41mm diameter gives it an impressive wrist presence otherwise. Price: US$37,100

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

A Lange Sohne Odysseus white gold

There’s a solid list of film sequels that are better than the originals, but that very rarely happens in the watch world. A. Lange & Söhne’s second version of the Odysseus redefined its first sports watch effort by ditching the blue dial trope, giving it some extra detail, and rendering the swim-ready 120m water-resistant case in glamorous white gold. Between the effortlessly hidden pushers in the crown guards, the comfortable rubber strap, and the grand day-and-date wheels, it’s got to be one of the best examples of a luxury sports watch out there that merges utility with beauty. The striping around the outer sector adds to the Saxon sharpness on which the German brand prides itself, and its name Odysseus encourages its owners to take it on adventures where white gold watches normally wouldn’t go. Price: US$43,500

Breguet Marine 5517

Breguet Marine 5517 white gold

Plenty of brands love to honour Breguet’s historic aesthetic through the use of hands and numerals which Breguet popularised, but Breguet itself prefers to look to the future. The Marine 5517 is a perfect example of genre-defying contemporary watchmaking. The neo-Breguet hands sit over a true guilloché dial with a mesmerising wave pattern, itself surrounded by applied Roman numerals. The blocky lugs jut out to meet an integrated bracelet, ensuring the watch straddles the line between a dress watch and a sports watch in the most alluring way possible. It’s also completely swimmable, with a 100-meter water resistance rating and screw-down crown despite the solid 18k white gold case and bracelet. Price: US$57,600

Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold

Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold

Just because white gold is a precious alloy, doesn’t mean it has to be limited to dress watches. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 from Omega is as much of a sports watch as its steel equivalent, right down to the 60m of water resistance, but its total weight of 212 grams betrays it as an object of sheer luxury heft. It’s an adaptation of the very first Speedmaster from 1957, including the broad arrow hands, dot over ninety on the bezel, thin strip of lume on the minutes hand, and even the old style of printed Omega logo beneath the applied Greek letter. It’s powered by the calibre 321, known as the chronograph movement worn by Ed White during the first American spacewalk, as well as the calibre used during the 1969 Apollo 11 mission to land on the Moon. A more modern touch is the sapphire exhibition caseback, however, it’s printed with the Omega Hippocampus in tribute to the original solid caseback engraving. Price: US$91,200

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Frosted Gold

Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked Ref 15407BC GG 1224BC 01

Instantly setting itself apart from other white gold cases, the ‘frosted’ finish of this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak almost looks bejewelled without the need for gratuitous gem-setting. Hammered into the metal with diamond tools, the result is a matte texture that is remarkably decorative rather than utilitarian, making it a refreshing break from the same alternating brushing and polishing we see on practically every other watch. To make it further distinct from other Royal Oaks, the calibre 3132 is on display with a gorgeous openworked dial. This lets you look into the double balance wheel assembly, which increases the inertia and hence the stability and accuracy. Price: US$100,000

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5204G-001

Patek Philippe 5204G 001 White Gold

Are there any words that go better together in watchmaking than Patek Philippe and Grand Complications? Often touted as the greatest watch brand of all time, Patek’s Grand Complications range is the pinnacle of its ability. The reference 5204G-001 was released towards the end of 2023, but it made a strong impression on its whole catalogue. With a vintage-styled case and contemporary elements such as the olive green dial, the 18k white gold composition completes its luxurious proposition. The included complications are a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds chronograph, the inner workings of which you can stare at through the sapphire display caseback. The manually-wound calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q is as much a work of art as the rest of the watch, practically defining elegance. Price: US$336,890

Time+Tide Timeless Pick: vintage Cartier Tank Américaine

Cartier Tank Americaine Hong Kong LE 1997
A Hong Kong limited edition Cartier Tank Américaine from 1997. Image courtesy of Watch Vault.

As a brand that has been both a watchmaker and a jeweller for over a century, Cartier has mastered the use of gold in watch cases. While the regular Cartier Tank is a legend for innumerable reasons, the elongated Tank Américaine has been a particularly prolific model in white gold cases. The pronounced case sides which also act as lugs give the watch a charming rigidity, and you would never guess that the model was only conceived in the late 1980s. Mechanical or quartz, plain or set with diamonds, time-only or complicated, as long as you enjoy rectangular watches there’s guaranteed to be a reference to suit your tastes. You can pick up neo-vintage quartz examples for as little as US$3,400, with more coveted models such as the Hong Kong LE above selling for over US$27,000.