The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is for collectors who march to the beat of their own drum
Zach BlassMany watch collectors dismiss any and all fashion brands that produce watches. We’ve explored this topic at length – but the era of brands typically associated with fashion lending their name to a low-quality, high-priced piece that exploits their brand power is coming to an end. Whether typically associated with other items, be it fashion or fragrance, these brands have started to take their watchmaking much more seriously in a world where there have never been more watch collectors and educated enthusiasts. Louis Vuitton is one such brand, branching out beyond the scope of their monogrammed leather goods to being a steward and cultivator of high-end independent watchmaking. With the Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon, the brand merges its distinct flavour of design with high-end complications.
The 50-metre water-resistant case of this Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon has a subtly flared drum shape, apt given “that tambour” is the French word for drum. It is a rather large drum, clocking in at 46mm in diameter and 13.15mm in thickness, but its widening stance somewhat mitigates its wrist presence. The caseback itself is flat, but looking at the front of the watch you will notice a fluid, arching line that extends from the curved lugs and curved sapphire crystal – taming the length across the wrist.
On the right side of the case, the pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock may indicate this is a chronograph, but it’s not. It could seem so at a glance, especially with the bicompax-like placement of the dial complications. What these pushers actually control is the second time zone (or GMT) counter at the 3 o’clock position, advancing the yellow-tipped LV wheel forwards or backwards in hourly increments.
All configurations of the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon have semi-skeletonised black dials, revealing a different material disc beneath. For the full shot-blasted titanium case configuration, the dial shutters, so to speak, reveal a grey sunburst backdrop. For the solid pink gold or titanium and pink gold two-tone, a pink gold disc with a sunburst finish is utilised.
Lastly, there is also a full titanium case configuration that includes a Gibeon meteorite disc – which is what we have here. With this meteorite dial model, the applied hour indices, rather than set will full solid blocks of SuperLuminova, are instead set with baguette diamonds.
Via a cut-out at the 9 o’clock position, you will be able to see the star of the LV 82 calibre within – a flying tourbillon crafted in the shape of Gaston Vuitton’s signature ‘V’ logo rotating in full every 60 seconds.
The automatic movement, with 65 hours of power reserve, is also exhibited on the caseback. The LV 82 has been given a future-forward aesthetic, foregoing traditional decorations and instead blackened with blasted and circularly brushed surfaces. For both an added visual pop and winding efficiency, the movement utilises a pink gold rotor decorated with a linear brush and openworked V logo motif.
I won’t pretend that the Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is for everyone – certainly not visually nor monetarily. But, Louis Vuitton do not claim so either. Watches like this are meant to appeal to a select group, one consisting of high net worth individuals looking for a bold watch design you cannot find from any other brand. I get it, its shape and size is rather polarising. At the end of the day though, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is for those who march to the beat of their own drum.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon pricing and availability
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is available now for purchase. Price: US$79,000 (titanium), US$91,000 (pink gold), US$103,000 (titanium, meteorite, diamond)
| Brand | Louis Vuitton |
| Model | Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon |
| Case Dimensions | 46mm (D) x 13.15mm (T) |
| Case Material | Titanium, titanium and 18k pink gold, 18k pink gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Dial | Black openworked with sunburst grey, pink gold or meteorite |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal front and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Black rubber strap with case-matching double folding buckle |
| Movement | LV 82, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, GMT, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$79,000 (titanium) US$91,000 (pink gold) US$103,000 (titanium, meteorite, diamond) |