Zach Blass

Posts by Zach:

Bulgari releases 21.01.2021

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020

Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter of love or hate with no in between. But this polarising effect is primarily the result of  the brand’s success in creating genuinely original designs. The brand’s creativity and willingness to risk departing from the usual horological templates are qualities that are ultimately much needed…

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Youssef Abdelkarim 20.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman

When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a third-generation watchmaker in Baghdad. Thousands of watches fill his workshop, and Abdelkarim diligently spends his days at his desk working his way through the queue of watches that need his care and attention to fix. According to AFP, “Abdelkarim began fixing watches at the age…

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six years to make 20.01.2021

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline

When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury branding is one element of increased prices and margins. But another more genuine factor of the cost of a watch is the actual time it takes to develop, decorate and assemble. Back in 2014, Patek Philippe president and CEO Theirry Stern explained in an interview…

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ETA 2824 19.01.2021

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824

The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being said, ETA movements are still pervasive throughout the industry in both modified and unmodified forms. One staple of their manufacture is the ETA 2824, which has been seen in watches across the decades in everything from vintage Tudor Submariners to Omega Seamasters prior to the…

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Nicholas Hacko 19.01.2021

This Rolex restoration video by an Aussie watchmaker hit 1m views in record time, and we can see why…

We all dread the nightmare scenario of water damage in a watch. Water and watches is like Superman and kryptonite, too much exposure will wreck the timepiece. As soon as components are exposed to moisture, the process of oxidation and rust will begin and, as the days pass, render some of them irredeemable. Rolex makes some of the most robust and desirable watches in the world, but the increasingly luxurious nature of these products make some owners fearful of testing the professional capabilities of their tool watch. In a video released by Nicholas Hacko, a.k.a Master Watchmaker on YouTube, the…

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Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLNR 18.01.2021

VIDEO: Is the Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLNR “Bat Girl” worth the waiting list?

The Rolex GMT Master II range is incredibly sought after. Known for their jet-setting origins, they spruced up the wrists of golden age pilots who appreciated having that extra timezone information to hand. Today, the undeniable appeal for this functional luxury asset remains. Rolex have previously injected a good bit of colour into the 24 hour bi-directional bezels of the GMT line with blue and red (Pepsi), brown and yellow or brown and black (root beer), red and black (coke), and the highly debated all blue (blueberry). But the most modern of the colour duos is found in the blue…

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Reuben Schoots 18.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: How this 27-year-old beat a deadly virus, opiate addiction and depression to build a mechanical watch by hand

If you are a regular reader of Time+Tide you might be familiar with Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots. Reuben and I are the same age at 27 years old, but whereas I have yet to finish my copy of Watchmaking by George Daniels, Reuben is on the precipice of finishing his very own watch – built using the Daniels method. It takes a mountain of perseverance and technical skill to build a watch, especially when its components are all built by hand. But it is that much more impressive that Reuben is able to do so in the wake of battling…

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Kardashian 17.01.2021

Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps

OK, I am not going to pretend this show was part of my television diet, but Keeping up with the Kardashians has undoubtedly been a world phenomenon over the past 15 years it has aired. The Kardashian family is practically royalty in the United States with many devoted fans supporting their respective businesses and endeavours. Kylie Jenner, for example, was declared by Forbes to be the world’s youngest self-made billionaire at the age of 21. In part, the engagement with Kardashian products is the result of viewers feeling like part of the family and living in their limelight through vicarious…

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seven carbon watches 15.01.2021

Watches by material: 7 carbon watches that are lightweight, futuristic and hard as nails

Watchmaking is a heritage and tradition-driven industry that does not always feel the need to explore modern design and materials. But fortunately some manufacturers have realised there is a segment of consumers itching for brands to do just that. In previous articles I have noted the rather homogenised nature of watches on the market which, to be fair, is largely a result of our purchasing behaviors that steer the course that companies take. But the growing presence of carbon in watchmaking today constitutes a rebel outpost that is countering this aspect of the industry. Carbon has the benefit of being…

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Conor McGregor 15.01.2021

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist…

Conor McGregor is a larger-than-life personality within the world of MMA. When you’re as successful as the “The Notorious” Irishman, you can not only afford to strut your stuff in the manner he does, but also spend ludicrous sums of money on watches. Yesterday, McGregor shared a window into his extraordinary life, filming his visit to a Jacob & Co. boutique to purchase not just one watch but two! The brand’s watches by no means come cheap, incorporating high jewellry and horology into wildly original and creative timepieces. With an already knockout watch collection, McGregor spent nearly £2.2 million on…

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Grand Seiko SBGA413 13.01.2021

IN-DEPTH: The ‘other’ pink watch: Why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGA413 instead of waiting for the pink Rolex OP 36

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 was announced back in September, I was pleasantly surprised by the colourful Stella-inspired dials. Like a pack of Starburst candy though, the pink was my clear favourite. It just seemed so out of the crown’s wheelhouse, a gorgeous middle finger to everything you know and expect from the brand. The candy pink reference is definitely a peacocking dial, and I decided to put my name on the waiting list, figuring I could mull over if I was prepared to strap one on my wrist while I endured the inevitable wait. I sat by the…

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Jimmy Carr 12.01.2021

Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend

Jimmy Carr is one of my favourite comedians. His quick wit consistently incites belly laughs while his risqué punchlines are some of the best in the business. What’s less known about the British comedian is his incredible taste for watches, which he puts on full display throughout the comedy show Your Face or Mine that he co-hosts with fellow comedian Katherine Ryan (also hysterical). As you watch him masterfully roast guests who come on the show, you will also notice some astounding timepieces that make cameos throughout. Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1A and 5712/R More often than not, you will spot…

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six great ceramic watches 11.01.2021

Watches By Material: six great ceramic watches that are super-tough and super-cool

Ceramic was once a fairly rare material for watch cases with many manufacturers yet to tame the robust case medium. Now there are a plethora of options to choose from, all in varying colours, sizes, styles, and price points to choose from. Brands like Rolex and Omega use ceramic bezels on their divers (among other watches as well) in order to provide better resistance to the scratching and deterioration than is found on their metallic counterparts: aluminum or steel. So if this is the way to increase the longevity of a bezel, why not increase the durability of an entire…

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H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer 11.01.2021

INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like?

H. Moser & Cie. is a watch brand and manufacturer known for having fun and exploring a wide spectrum of colours and materials to fabricate their creations. But now they are taking a moment to get serious through a gorgeous green duo of timepieces. The new H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer Collection is a partnership between Moser and Duke University. As brand CEO Edouard Meylan explains, “Time is a precious, yet finite resource; we are thrilled to present these today to help find a cure for ALS.” The watches were designed in collaboration with Loy Stewart – a…

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Rolex watches you can buy that are still gaining value 10.01.2021

Four Rolex watches you can actually buy that are still gaining value

Let me just say from the outset that traditional investment strategies are generally a much safer bet than watches. Having said that, many watches have the potential to gain in value so that if and when the time come to part with the timepiece, you will get your money back (and possibly more). When it comes to Rolex, it is no secret that a stainless-steel Daytona, a GMT-Master II Batgirl or a Pepsi will all command serious premiums in the marketplace. But what about watches that you don’t have to pay a large premium for? In fact, what about Rolex…

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Five stunning platinum watches 09.01.2021

Stealth-wealth stunners: five platinum watches to die for (one of which the Swiss should be very afraid of…)

Platinum is the most noble metal for watches. It’s both precious and powerful, a tough and costly metal for brands to work with and for buyers to purchase. Yet being a white precious metal, there is a quiet irony to the aesthetic it provides. Platinum watches are usually the most expensive in any brand’s catalogue, yet they make for some of the best stealth-wealth options due to the fact they look like steel watches at first glance. It’s only when you feel their reassuring heft on the wrist that you truly know what you are dealing with. Here are five…

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Omega Speedmaster 3861 08.01.2021

What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers?

Earlier this week, aptly on a #speedytuesday in Switzerland, Omega has released a new generation of Omega Speedmaster watches. The upgrade has been long-awaited with the previous references largely unchanged for the past 50 years. The Omega Speedmaster 3861 models announced  introduce master chronometer co-axial technology to the professional moon watch – with subtle changes to its case, dial and bezel, plus an overhauled bracelet. Let’s take a closer look at the new watches and what they may mean for prospective buyers worldwide. The 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection The new-generation Omega Speedmaster 3861 collection comes in the form of four…

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GMT Master II 126710BLNR 07.01.2021

IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader

Rolex … oh dear, Rolex … love the watches, hate the limited amount of product available. As much as it would be easy to chalk it up to brand power and allure, the reality is the crown manufacturer makes one hell of a wristwatch. The Rolex name may draw all-comers into purchasing their pieces, but the build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics get top marks from collectors and connoisseurs as well. We ultimately vote with our dollars, dictating the values of watches on the second-hand market. But Rolex has its role in this as well. With the industry equivalent of voter…

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 06.01.2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend

This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not only powered by a then rare high-beat movement, but they also had gradient dials – which Zenith claims was the first smoked dials for the industry at large. Today the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 brings back the smoked brown gradient dial variant of the initial…

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2021 Watch Predictions: Will the BB58 replace the 41mm line? 06.01.2021

2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up?

Look, I don’t have a crystal ball that can tell me which new watches will or will not drop this year. But when people raise the question of whether or not the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with its 39mm dial will replace the 41mm line in the Tudor catalogue, I am not afraid to share my prediction. The short answer: no. Believe me, as the resident tiny wrister of the Time+Tide team (who regularly and playfully battles with his boss on the issue of ideal case diameters) I would have no qualms if this did actually happen. But if I really…

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Nicki Minaj 05.01.2021

Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K

Well. I don’t know if Nicki Minaj saw my recent story about six unexpected watch spots, which included Cristiano Ronaldo Jr. wearing his father’s Rolex – the most expensive one for sale at retail today. But it seems I may have been a little hasty in proclaiming Ronaldo Jr. the junior #wristgame champion. I genuinely believed flexing such a timepiece at the tender age of 10 would be impossible to top, but Nicki Minaj may have done just that. This week, Nicki shared the first public photo of her three-month-old son flexing some serious bling. Her post was captioned with the…

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Bob's Watches Rolex Watch Resource 05.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: This is the absolute Bible for all things Rolex

Rolex may seem like a straight-forward brand with timeless references within the catalogue that have only incrementally changed over the years. But watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres and, playing at the summit of watchmaking, Rolex watches are replicated and copied endlessly. Navigating the second-hand Rolex market can be frightening at times, with the inherent risk of investing in a forgery. The age-old advice is always to “buy the seller” and fortunately a vendor like Bob’s Watches is a master of all things Rolex. They not only handle some of the most in-demand Rolex models today, but have…

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watches I wore most in 2020 04.01.2021

The three watches Zach wore most in 2020: Tudor, Grand Seiko and Rolex

Editor’s note: You may note one watch gets more air time in this article than the other two. When we originally tasked our team to put this together, we prompted our writers to pick the one watch they wore the most in 2020. But we decided to give you all more bang for your buck, and instead ask what were the three watches they wore most in 2020. Zach … take it away. When it comes to my watch collection, I always try to spread the love. Unless I am reviewing a watch, or in the honeymoon phase with a new addition to…

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Six of the most unexpected watch spots 04.01.2021

From Daniel Craig to Ronaldo Jr, six watches we never expected to spot on these wrists…

Who doesn’t love a good watch spot? You know you’re in the presence of a true watch geek if they feel the need to pause the film every time a timepiece makes a cameo. But at times, these discoveries can feel a bit predictable. Musicians are constantly found wearing AP Royal Oaks or Nautilus references, while Rolex always makes regular appearances. But every now and then, we spot a familiar brand end up on a rather surprising wrist – or in a surprising moment. Here are six of the most unexpected watch spots we have ever seen. Philippe Dufour’s Rolex…

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Gael Monfils 03.01.2021

The watch collection of tennis player Gael Monfils is as thrilling as his playing style

It is no secret Gael Monfils is an absolute superstar on the tennis court. He is known for his lively and exciting matches where his acrobatic and daredevil style really entertains fans of the sport. We recently covered his bonkers experiment with Greubel Forsey, where he was enlisted by the brand to wear their GMT Sport watch during practice and even smash a few serves full speed directly at the $500,000 timepiece and its front-facing sapphire crystal. A lesser-known fact about the top-ranking tennis player is that he is a fully-fledged horology addict and watch enthusiast who even has a…

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2021 please be better 02.01.2021

5 New Year’s resolutions for the watch world to stick to in 2021

This year has sucked with the suction power of an industrial vacuum cleaner hoovering up a barrel full of straws. So we all hope that 2021 salvages this grim situation with new opportunities, experiences and an overall healthier world. Considering the chaos of the year, watch releases were actually pretty strong, yet there is always room for improvement. The watch industry and even its community of devoted fans have room to grow and this is (hopefully) the year to make it happen. We need more innovation, creativity and value in both product and perspective to spice things up. So 2021,…

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Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy 27.12.2020

HANDS-ON: Get marooned with the Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy launched with RedBar

Since its release, the Rado Captain Cook line has provided watch buyers with a robust option in the dive watch category at a pleasingly approachable price. The watches boast ceramic bezels, 300m water-resistant cases of varying materials, plus movements that last longer than many of their more expensive competitors. Yet despite such attributes, the Captain Cook manages to keep its costs down. The introduction of a new colour configuration into the mix – the Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy – is likely to only enhance the watch’s heady appeal. When Rado developed this red/burgundy configuration of the watch, Rado CEO…

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2021 NBA 26.12.2020

From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame

Basketball is back and not in the bubble! But while the players battle it out on the court, as always, an equally fascinating sideshow will also unfold for watch enthusiasts. That’s because the NBA is not only home to some of sport’s biggest superstars, but also some superstar watch collections. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, Patek Philippe, Cartier – you name it, they’ve got it. To celebrate the return of basketball, we wanted to highlight some of the watches we have seen the best in the game wear – whether courtside, heading to and from the locker room, during press…

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how the thinnest watch ever made came to be 25.12.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made

This year, Piaget achieved an unfathomable feat in watchmaking – a production timepiece only 2mm thick! Not surprisingly, given the scale of this achievement, the composition of the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is extremely complex. Its super-thin mechanism and harmony between case and movement will astound even the most jaded collectors and it will likely be a long time before anyone can top this new world record in watchmaking. To better understand this incredible watch that was awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” grand prize at the GPHG a few months back, we turn to none other than Mr. Watchfinder himself who…

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Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 23.12.2020

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT

Having a relationship with brands and authorised dealers is something any watch collector strives for. If you’re thinking that a quick re-read of How to Make Friends and Influence People will help you with this, we have bad news. This connection is typically developed through purchase history rather than charm, genuine dialogue and friendship. Being a celebrity, superstar, and worldwide icon, however, can really open up doors and create hitherto unheard-of possibilities. Whether it’s a bespoke Patek Philippe, the latest high complication piece from Audemars Piguet, or otherwise unseen Rolex models (for example, the 2020 Collection), Mr John C. Mayer is…

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A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 21.12.2020

Extreme close-up! Exploring the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk with Mr. Macro @horomariobro

For watch enthusiasts, it’s always a pleasure to get a closer look at our favourite watches – especially when the watch in question is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. In his conversation with Mr. Macro himself, @horomariobro, Andrew gets a little more familiar with the Zeitwerk movement that essentially offers a digital watch in mechanical form. Within four masterful shots, @Horomariobro neatly lays out exactly what makes the digital display jump – and even digs into a hidden feature regarding the movement’s brake lever. AM: What are we looking at here? I assume it is A. Lange & Söhne.…

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Grand Seiko SBGE263 19.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition

Grand Seiko has been celebrating its 60th Anniversary these past few weeks and months, but during today’s Grand Seiko USA webinar some huge news was announced regarding the future of Grand Seiko USA, as well as a new watch – the Grand Seiko SBGE263 US Limited Edition. The 110 watches are a nod to the 10th anniversary of Grand Seiko USA. Before we dig into the watch, it’s worth noting an announcement fans and collectors of the brand stateside have been eagerly awaiting – the expansion of the GS9 Club in the US. For the first time outside of Japan,…

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Grand Seiko SBGX341 19.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option

Are there any manufacturers that do quartz better than Grand Seiko? The brand, after all, makes their own quartz crystals in-house and upholds them to the most rigorous standards of accuracy – the 9F series of movements, for example, are regulated to run within +/- 10 seconds per year at a minimum. The deviation is so low, its accuracy over the course of 365 days is equivalent to the accuracy per day of a standard movement. While quartz and its high accuracy is not limited to Grand Seiko, the exquisite Zaratsu finishings bestowed on the watch cases by the brand’s…

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favourite men's diamond watches 18.12.2020

Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend

Many guys dismiss the idea of wearing a diamond watch out of fear it’ll seem ludicrously over the top. Admittedly, countless celebrities rock blinged-out watches smothered with so many diamonds you can barely see the metal. But there are other, more subtle alternatives to the fully iced-out look you may want to explore. It is no secret diamonds can add hefty premiums to watch prices, especially when bought at retail. Here are eight of our favourite men’s diamond watches – ranging from the more affordable entry-level pieces all the way to six figures. Tudor Royal ref. M28600-0004 Probably the most interesting…

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buying her first watch 17.12.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch

When you’re a hardcore enthusiast it’s easy to get stuck in the #watchfam echo chamber, so it’s always nice to get some outside perspective from others who’ve yet to fall down the horological rabbit hole. That’s exactly what we got from journalist Liana Satenstein, as she ponders her first move in acquiring a classic watch. She recently published this story on Vogue about why she is buying her first watch – and the sentiment is very relatable. In “Why I’m Buying My First Watch”, Satenstein explores her relationship with technology. She remarks, “There’s no doubt that the digital abyss of…

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Three Favorite Watches of 2020 16.12.2020

LIST: Zach’s 3 favourite watches of 2020

This year was strange, to put it mildly. The pandemic was ever-present, lurking over our shoulder, keeping us locked in our homes and generally limiting our contact with the rest of the world. Fortunately, for those of us into watches, the new releases have continued to flow with manufacturers adapting their release strategies to meet the year’s peculiar demands. Here are my three favourite watches of 2020. Kurono “Mori” One-Year Anniversary Limited Edition In my opinion, Kurono watches have the best ratio of affordability to artistry. Lucky buyers get world-class dials and hands in a classic 37mm case profile that’s…

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William Wood Valiant Bronze 14.12.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Valiant Bronze is inspired by firemen and smoking hot

If there is one main takeaway from our Micro Mondays series, it’s that you don’t have to spend top dollar to get a top-notch watch. William Wood, a watch manufacturer based in London, works to provide consumers with more approachable options for wrist-wear. They work within familiar frameworks, but with distinct designs and details. The William Wood Valiant Bronze is one such design, with plenty to explore as you delve deeper. The backstory William Wood was the name of brand founder Jonny Garrett’s late grandfather. For more than 25 years, William Wood served in the British Fire Service, winning commendations…

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Raketa 14.12.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The New York Times pulls back the iron curtain on Raketa

When it comes to watches, we too often think of the Swiss – with the German and Japanese manufacturers no longer trailing far behind. But watchmaking is truly a global enterprise. In Russia, many collectors will immediately think of Konstantin Chaykin’s maverick creations. But there is also a larger manufacturer, with a surprising amount of in-house know-how and original design. Raketa is a Russian watch brand with incredibly rich and, sadly, lesser-known heritage. They offer some stellar creations at more approachable price points. There is serious value at play here, as it is rare to find vertically manufactured pieces that…

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Five great accessories in the Time+Tide Marketplace 13.12.2020

Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself)

The gift-giving season has arrived, with Christmas and other holidays just around the corner. Odds are if you’re reading this article (or any content on Time+Tide for that matter) that you, or someone you know, have a sweet spot for watch-related goodies. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait till the last minute or spend a great deal of time pondering what would make a great stocking stuffer this year, as we have assembled five great accessories that will definitely get the recipient’s heart ticking. Each of the below items are available now for purchase in the Time+Tide Marketplace, click on…

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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch 13.12.2020

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist

Hublot is a brand that does not always get its horological due. The movements that the brand does not produce in-house are horological footnotes compared to the movements that they do. At their core, Hublot are a bold, brave and forward-thinking manufacturer, and an excellent example of this temerity is the Meca-10 movement. As its name suggests, the caliber provides a long-lasting 10 days of power reserve and offers a distinctly Hublot aesthetic in form and finish. It’s quite the marvel in the metal, and a feast for the eyes for even the most seasoned gearheads. This is why it…

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James Harden 10.12.2020

Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries)

Being a superstar athlete clearly has its perks. Sure, there is glory within achievements and success found in their respective sport, but if you become such an anchoring presence to a team, such as NBA player James Harden, it also means you receive quite the hefty payday. Harden, who has reportedly amassed more than $224,000,000 during his career, can clearly afford to spoil his friends with gifts, and lucky for rapper Lil Baby he did just that for the musician’s 26th birthday. Filmed in Las Vegas last week, during the birthday celebrations and shenanigans, it was revealed James Harden really…

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GPHG 10.12.2020

8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million

Skeleton dials are not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, but the gearheads and engineers among us go crazy for the transparent aesthetic. They allow the wearer to see the internals of their watch throughout the day without having to flip the watch over to take a peek. When done right, it becomes a fascinating city of gears beneath the crystal that is sure to raise intrigue with any eye it catches. This year has had some pretty neat skeleton releases, so we have compiled 8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020 for your pleasure. Swatch x 007 ²Q While…

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five favorite articles from 2020 10.12.2020

LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020

The year is coming to a close (thank heavens) and there is a brighter horizon to look forward to in the coming months. However, there is value in reflecting on this past year, with the Time+Tide team coming in strong with amazing content throughout the doom and gloom – some of which you may have even missed! I took a deep dive into our archives and found the written content that struck a note with me this year, and have assembled my five favourite articles of 2020 for your viewing pleasure. INTRODUCING: The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a…

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favorite SmartWatches for Kids 2020 09.12.2020

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why

There are three reasons to gift your child a smartwatch. One, it is a great way to introduce your kid(s) to the horological world and get them going early on their love for a timekeeper on the wrist. The second reason is timing; the holidays are almost here. The third reason is, having done some research this week, they’re actually very handy for lots of reasons, from safety to communication to the ways that they can encourage a healthier lifestyle. Since the birth of the category, which the Swiss have no doubt dreaded in its world domination, smartwatches have become…

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Eugen Wegner One 07.12.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Eugen Wegner One is the watch to revive the family fortunes

It isn’t easy for just anyone to become a watch manufacturer. It takes determination, know-how and a passion for watchmaking to claim that dwindling slice of the sales pie not consumed by the larger conglomerates. But fortunately there are those taking big strides, while putting their own spin on modern horology. Eugen Wegner is a brand recently revived by Jonas Bley – the great-great grandson of Eugen himself – who is looking to drive the watchmaker forward. Jonas has brought three new watches to the table: the Hevelius (39mm time-only), Phoenix (time and date), and our primary focus today, the…

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Zero West TT-58 07.12.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache

We recently covered up-and-coming British manufacturer Zero West, and their Spitfire S4-P9427 aviation watch. But pilot’s watches are not the only horological ace up their sleeve, they also encapsulate great moments in British history on land and sea. Across all three lines, one common theme they share are distinctive cases and aesthetics that can only be construed as Zero West. Founders Andrew Brabyn (designer) and Graham Collins (ex-black ops military engineer) truly work to make creations that stand out from the norm and rework heritage inspirations in fresh forms. Today, let’s dig in to one of their British automotive-inspired timepieces,…

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Five Rolex models available near retail pricing 06.12.2020

5 Rolex models just over and just under RRP that you can pick up now on Bob’s Watches, including a surprising Daytona…

As we’ve recently established, in Matt’s story here, we are no stranger to the discussion around Rolex scarcity. Trust me, as regular watch buyers, we totally get it. I am personally disappointed and dismayed each day I don’t hear back from the authorised dealers in New York City and beyond that I visited to express interest in the Oyster Perpetual 36 model upon its release this year. Sadly, these Perpetual watches perpetually frustrate customers who can’t seem to get ahead in the enigma that is the Rolex waitlist. But you don’t have to suffer in silence. Here are  five Rolex…

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Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XI 06.12.2020

We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction?

Last week, Phillips held their latest watch auction in Hong Kong: the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XI. As per usual, there were some very neat, rare, and illustrious lots that collectors would salivate over – eager to add such fine timepieces to their collections. While the globe may have taken a beating this year from the pandemic, it is clear that top-tier collectors and buyers are still eager to acquire fine watches for top-dollar hammer prices. This auction, however, had an unexpected assembly of new watches. Each of the new colours within the 2020 Stella-inspired Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36…

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Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase 05.12.2020

VIDEO: The remarkable bang for buck of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase

As a brand, Baume & Mercier presents a lot of benefits to its consumers. They have established themselves as a luxury watch manufacturer that aims to present some of the best builds for the best dollar. It would be fair to say that what Longines represents to the Swatch Group is what Baume & Mercier means within the Richemont group. With the Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase, Baume & Mercier bring undeniable value to the consumer with watches that technically punch far above their price point. With upgrades such as silicon hairsprings, 120 hours of power…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic 03.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic

If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price tag in steel. Since its launch, however, the Royal Oak has taken the watch-collecting world by storm – with celebrities from The Rock to Jay-Z opting to sport the coveted timepiece. It has also undergone many evolutions; its technology endlessly upgraded with new complications and…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase 02.12.2020

INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up

When the time comes to add complications to your roster of wrist wear, Baume & Mercier is a great brand to turn to. Not only are their watches competitively priced, but they are also comparably well-built when considered alongside many of their more expensive peers. In this way, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase 10552 ticks a lot of boxes while also bringing their in-house manufacturing nous to the party. You’re buying more than just the brand name here, you’re also getting some serious tech. The case The stainless-steel case of this watch is 42mm in diameter…

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Richard Mille RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon 02.12.2020

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch

Editor’s note: I remember it like it was yesterday. I was standing next to a stripper pole with a lovely girl named Agnes, who toured me through all the functions of the brand new RM 69 random-phrase-generating watch by Richard Mille. We then tried it out, so to speak. Lots of fun. But is it fun enough to risk nine years jail for, if you don’t happen to have the funds to buy one of the only 30 models in existence? That’s a question one mugger has plenty of time to ponder now. Zach has more … – Andrew  …

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Fratello Watches x Oris 02.12.2020

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster)

Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I mean, look at it. Here, Fratello founder Robert-Jan Broer reveals how the partnership started and the hidden details that make this 300-piece run feel so distinct and fresh. How did this partnership and collaboration come about? What is the origin story here? We had a…

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Fratello Watches Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 01.12.2020

HANDS-ON: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is like a glass of Bordeaux in a golden goblet

Who doesn’t love a good limited edition, especially when it’s in the form of an unlikely collaboration? There is something about acquiring a watch that’s not only beautiful but rare that makes it feel all the more special. Not all limited editions are created equal, of course, but when all the details are just right, the resulting watch becomes even more desirable by dint of its exclusivity. Our friends at Fratello Watches have just created such a timepiece. They’ve teamed up with Oris to create some serious awesomeness, rich with the #details we crave, in the form of the Oris…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase 01.12.2020

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking

Everyone loves good value. It’s always nice to walk away from a purchase with the smug feeling that you got a lot more than what you paid for. One brand that consistently provides those good vibes is Baume & Mercier. They really know how to walk the fine line between luxury and accessibility and it is no secret that we at Time+Tide are genuine fans of what they have to offer. Not in general, because the brand has suffered dark patches, but specifically since they re-entered the fray with the Baumatic. Modern-day Baume & Mercier ticks a lot of boxes…

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Seiko 5 Sports NARUTO 30.11.2020

Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas

Naruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based on some of the central characters from the show. Before we dig into the distinct characteristics of each reference, let’s dig into the elements they all have in common. The watches are essentially variations on the Seiko 5 Sports watch that’s widely regarded as a…

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30.11.2020

This collector has a different Omega Speedmaster for every day of the year, and has even made ‘Speedy Suspenders’…

Editor’s note: This is a story that focuses on two things, being the collection and story of the man that almost certainly owns more Speedmasters than any other collector on earth, Mr Bhaskar Eswaran. It also leads into a description of the new Omega Authentication service for watches more than 30 years old. I am lucky to have had my beloved Omega Ranchero authenticated by Omega, and can say the service is exceptional, and the cherished red envelope that the official information arrives in is akin to receiving a Top Secret dossier from James Bond. More on that in another…

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best pilot watches of 2020 under $10k 28.11.2020

Business class for an economy fare: the best pilot watches of 2020 under $10K

Watches and aviation have long been on the same flight path, with multiple timepieces made specifically to take to the skies. Without aviation, for example, we would not have the historic Cartier Santos – named after Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pilot who requested its creation. Known for their larger cases and high degree of legibility, pilot’s watches have attracted many buyers over the years who’ve never ventured anywhere near a cockpit. But whether you’re a budding Top Gun or permanently grounded, these are the best pilot watches of 2020 under $10K. Longines Spirit 40mm blue dial on leather strap The Spirit…

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford 26.11.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known for taking watches to a whole new level, providing incredible makeovers to timepieces that leave some wondering how it was not made a production model in the first place. Today, TAG Heuer and Bamford once again team up with the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford…

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AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition 26.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans

More than 50 years ago, an aviation team led by pilot Tom Lecky-Thompson embarked on what they referred to as codename “Blue Nylon”. So, what was the top-secret project? The group was making preparations for Lecky-Thompson’s attempt to enter the Transatlantic Air Race in 1969, which involved pilots flying from London all the way to New York. The pilot would go on to win the race, successfully flying his Harrier XV741 across the Atlantic to take home first prize. In honour of this accomplishment, AVI-8 has released its second limited-edition with the AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon. The case The…

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most expensive watches sold on Ebay in 2020 25.11.2020

The most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2020

With eBay being one of the largest marketplaces in the world, the go-to platform for sellers looking to find buyers for their goods, it can be home to some of the most desired and in-demand products worldwide – including watches. While some have hesitated to take the plunge on a watch purchase via the site, due to a fear of counterfeit products or listings, eBay has now incorporated an independent authentication service for sellers and buyers to utilise on top of their eBay money-back guarantee. This makes it safer than ever to dive into the watch category on the site,…

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The Queen's Gambit Bulova 25.11.2020

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit”

Being quarantined in our homes this year has encouraged us to binge more series and films than ever before. Fortunately, it’s the golden age of TV dramas, which means you don’t have to re-watch an episode of The Office or Seinfeld for the 100th time. One such show that has recently taken Netflix by storm is The Queen’s Gambit, which, at the time of writing, has been viewed by 62 million households in its first 28 days of release, making it the streaming channel’s most popular limited series ever. For watch enthusiasts, however, any checkerboard manoeuvres were eclipsed when protagonist Beth…

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24.11.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe production is down 30% due to COVID-19

If you have been holding your breath for the 5711 you put your name down for seven years ago, it’s time to listen to Queen Elsa and let it go – alternatively, you’ll suffocate. Like all watch manufacturers in these unprecedented times, Patek Philippe has taken a hit to its productivity for the year, enduring lockdowns and, later, staggered workforces and interrupted production. The brand has also had to adapt the way they engage with and present to consumers – allowing authorised dealers to list their watches online and recently launching their first watch via a digital announcement. By no…

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IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection 24.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal

Earlier this year, in April, the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection was announced at Watches & Wonders. The Portugieser was created in 1939 due to a demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. Legibility and accuracy are the two pillars that hold up the Portugieser line, and IWC has changed very little to the winning formula over the years. As IWC puts it, this year was the evolution of a classic. In order to maintain the Portugieser aesthetic we have all come to know and love, the majority of the evolution throughout the lineup is…

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Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma 24.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it?

Watching on from the sidelines, consumers on social media constantly beg the watch industry to put the novel in novelties, asking for original, fresh, and forward-thinking designs in a conventional and traditional industry. Instead, we get 1mm variations in size, a new dial colour, and the crowd goes wild to the extent that boggles the mind. In other words, people don’t know what they want. If you’re a watch lover that genuinely seeks a different view of things, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is for you, and it’s coming in hot. The case The 43mm case is made of…

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AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition 23.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition

Pilot’s watches have always been a strong category for watch consumers around the world, drawing an emotional and heritage-driven connection to the symbiosis between aviation and horology. Inspired by a Harrier XV741 flown in a 1969 Transatlantic Air Race from London to New York, AVI-8 offers a value-driven pilot’s watch designed with a clear and detailed love for all things aviation. The brand has worked very hard to appropriately pay homage to Tom Lecky-Thompson and his team through subtle nods to the pilot and plane that won more than 50 years ago. Code-named “Blue Nylon” by Lecky-Thompson and his team, AVI-8…

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22.11.2020

Rolex Datejust Michael Jordan gifted his personal security guard up for auction, current bid under $3K

Earlier this year, the amazing docu-series from ESPN & Netflix The Last Dance gave viewers an intimate look into the dynasty, the mind and the life of Michael Jordan, his Bulls teammates, and the staff around him. If you have not seen it yet, I highly recommend it, as even those who are not basketball fans will love the insight it provides into one of the most legendary athletes of all time. Throughout the series, it becomes very clear how close Michael Jordan was to those around him. He either loved or hated you, with no in between. One individual he…

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22.11.2020

16 of the best dive watches of 2020 under $10K

With the arrival of a long awaited, and if we dare say so, well deserved summer, it means dive watch season is here. Dive watches are a staple of any watch collection, known for their robust qualities that make them a suitable wrist companion in almost all environments. Looking for something new to explore the ocean with? Here are the best dive watches of 2020, all under $10,000 AUD. Longines HydroConquest Green The Longines HydroConquest Green on rubber offers a ton of value at a much lower price point. The 300m water resistant steel case is 41mm x 12mm and…

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Grand Seiko SBGJ241 21.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT, only the second vertical striped dial of this kind

Watch designs can be very homogenous at times, with brands capitalising on iconic silhouettes and forms to elevate their offerings. Grand Seiko, among other manufacturers, never utilises borrowed design and constantly puts the “novel” in novelties with fresh releases than can be easily spotted from across the room. Through their pillars of design, the brand creates meticulously crafted timepieces that are heavily reflective of Japan, its beauty, and traditions. The new Grand Seiko SBGJ241 is yet another stunning release that incorporates the essence of the brand in a original way. The case The 40mm case is fabricated in stainless steel, built…

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"Iconic Watches of Hollywood" 20.11.2020

The “Iconic Watches of Hollywood” auction by Bob’s Watches has some batshit-crazy Rolex models in it

Auction catalogues can be quite intimidating at times, with hundreds of lots, understated estimates, and vague additional costs tacked on after achieving a winning bid. Bob’s Watches has completely streamlined the process for the end consumer, curating a small selection of highly desirable watches across a range of price points with their “Fresh Finds – Iconic Watches of Hollywood” auction launched earlier this week. Running for one week, from Monday, November 16 to November 23, Bob’s Watches once again goes for quality over quantity with five killer references that have all graced the wrists of some of Hollywood’s most famous stars both…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition 19.11.2020

INTRODUCING: Staying golden with the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition

Today, TAG Heuer celebrates the 88th birthday of the legendary former CEO and current Honorary Chairman Jack Heuer by re-issuing Jack’s favourite ever Heuer watch, the gold Heuer Carrera 1158CHN. Jack, the great-grandson of Edouard Heuer, was an innovative leader of the famed manufacturer who worked with his family’s company for almost three decades. Two years after he joined the business, in 1960, Jack became one of the youngest leaders of a watch manufacture, at the age of 28. He devoted himself to many projects throughout the years, but his personal favourite to this day is the creation of the…

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best quartz watches of 2020 19.11.2020

6 impressive quartz watches released in 2020, including Grand Seiko, Breitling and Bulova

It is no secret that quartz has its haters. It was only last week that we were in conversation with Roger Smith, who reminded us that George Daniels himself used to pooh pooh quartz, saying “why would you buy something that did kamikaze every three years?” But others, equally informed within the community, will attest to its worth and place. While quartz does not necessarily have the same sense of tradition and heritage as mechanical watches, it should not be disqualified or discounted as its own art form. Not all quartz is created equal, and brands work very hard to…

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MB&F Legacy Machine 101 18.11.2020

Finding balance in 2020 with Mr Macro @horomariobro

It is no secret that a lot has happened this year – lockdown insanity, pre and post election anxiety, and oh-so much more. So let’s take a second to find Zen with a visual reminder of time beating forward. If you haven’t already, observing a watch tick away in slow motion is an extraordinarily relaxing thing to do. Often it is referred to as the heartbeat of a watch, but if you think about it, watching the hairspring expand and contract (at least in slow motion) is akin to taking a nice deep breath. With the MB&F Legacy Machine 101…

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one watch collection 17.11.2020

The white dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 is an ice-cold classic hiding in plain sight

Editor’s note: With many expecting (or more accurately hoping) for an Rolex Explorer refresh come 2021, we wanted to revisit that time in 2018 when our Canadian contributor – who you might know from his all-conquering BLNR review – Bruce Duguay was offered one by his AD. When presented with an Explorer II 16570 at retail (and with a discount no less), Bruce may or may not have declined to snag it – his eyes and heart possibly taken by another family within the Rolex catalogue. We will let you read the full story below, but one thing we suggest you keep…

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Vario 1918 Trench 16.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line

Military watches, or tool watches, are incredibly popular in today’s marketplace – with heritage becoming a huge emotional driver behind watch purchases. The Vario 1918 Trench Watch is a new and affordable option for buyers looking for a detail-driven and military-inspired timepiece. Vario carefully considers each component utilised within their Trench watches, working to provide the best build and value to the end consumer. The story Most tools and products are born as solutions to encumbrances and problems. To make our lives easier than they were previously. During the First World War, soldiers and officers utilised pocket watches that were integral to…

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best dress watches of 2020 over $10K 15.11.2020

8 of the best dress watches of 2020 over $10K, featuring Grand Seiko, Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre

Dress watches are the epitome of traditional horology. I know, sports watches are trendy and consume a large portion of the conversation – but there is something, whether tangible or intangible, that dress watches provide that a sports watch simply cannot and never will. They may not be your daily wearer, you certainly won’t take a dress watch to the beach. But for those crucial moments, whether a wedding or a job interview, the formal dress watch provides a certain kind of gentlemanly confidence boost that you just can’t find in professional tool watches. When I go out into the…

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14.11.2020

#shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore

Earlier this week, we shared our thoughts on phrases we are completely guilty of using at times, but wondered if it would be best to retire them. We’re not declaring right or wrong here, but rather just initiating a bit of a thought experiment and evaluating what effect our cultural rhetoric (so to speak) has on our industry and collecting community. It is no secret that tastes have homogenised quite a bit, and a case could be made that our common vernacular is one of the roots of the problem. Arguably, it creates a code of buyer conduct – rules…

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GPHG 2020 13.11.2020

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing…

The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of these members ultimately selected to serve as the final jury. This year, unfortunate circumstances minimised the physical in-person presence at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève). Nonetheless, the show was upbeat and filled with that good ol’ Swiss humour and an abundance of cheese-related…

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GPHG 13.11.2020

“I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense

As with any awards show, there can be a discrepancy between which watches fans think should have won and the watches that actually win. And it has to be said that the divide between popular and GPHG opinion is something of a canyon these days, with mega-brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe curiously not making any kind of showing. If this is indeed the “Oscars” for watchmaking, aren’t we rolling without Spielberg? Or, in the modern day, saying no to Nolan? This is a subject deserving of a post of its own, because, of course, “it’s complicated”. How so? It’s…

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue 13.11.2020

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang

Let’s face it – blue is a very saturated colour throughout the novelties of 2020. This is not necessarily due to a lack of creativity. If anything, it is fan service: brands truly working to provide what the people want. Hublot, on the other hand, is not one to just follow a trend – they find a way to tweak it in their moderate moments, and disrupt the hell out of it at their most extreme. And thus, they have created a new answer to the blue craze with the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Leveraging their innovative approach…

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12.11.2020

“Get your hands off my Patek…” Remembering the watches and antics of Nicolas ‘Bling-Bling’ Sarkozy

Editor’s note: We recently performed an overview of the watches most commonly worn by Donald Trump and Joe Biden, but despite being fresh from the campaign trial neither has ever had to do what former French Prime Minister Nicolas Sarkozy did. Sarkozy — fearing his Patek Philippe would be stolen — actually took his watch off as he met the people, after a few aggressive/enthusiastic handshakes with the crowd, to ensure his precious timepiece was not ripped from his wrist in the process. Say what you will about American presidents, but they have never had to remove their watches in fear of…

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue 12.11.2020

The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is part of a one-two colour punch that is peak Hublot

The ubiquity of blue this year has not gone unnoticed, with almost every brand hopping onto the trend in the hope of convincing more consumers to buy their watches. Hublot’s direction in the colour chosen for the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is not a case of trend-following. It’s yet more proof of the brand reading the room – where suddenly bright colours are more popular than ever, thanks to the gloomy global 2020 mood – and turning the freshness factor up to 11. Instead of just another blue dial, Hublot brings an entirely new shade of the colour…

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10.11.2020

INTRODUCING: In tribute to the founder of Seiko, the new Grand Seiko SBGZ005 and SBGW260

Grand Seiko recently celebrated the 60th anniversary of the brand, and released an amazing collection of six watches in honour of the occasion. But now another two anniversaries are on the horizon – and they are big ones. 2021 will mark the 160th anniversary of the birth of founder Kintaro Hattori and the 140th anniversary of the birth of the Seiko Corporation. Hattori, at the age of 21, would create what would later become Seikosha and eventually the Seiko Corporation we have all become so fond of. Very forward-thinking for the time, Hattori wanted to master all aspects of watchmaking…

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10.11.2020

Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style…

Last week, Lashana Lynch confirmed in Harper’s Bazaar that she would inherit the 007 mantle in No Time to Die, which is the 25th Bond film, due to hit cinemas in April 2021. During her interview she touched on a variety of points, including the perception of her casting and how she wanted to tackle the role. For the toxic personalities resisting this change, the best way to digest it is the simple reality she does not want to be James Bond or a knockoff “Jane Bond” character. She has only taken the mantle of 007, and with the help…

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Bamford Watch Department 09.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: A proper backstory to the Bamford Watch Department, the rebel modder that turned into a watch brand

Watch modification is now rampant throughout the watch community. From modded Seiko watches to blacked-out Rolex Milgauss pieces in Hollywood, a desire to personalise a watch and make it more of your own has always been an aspect of the watch industry. While some may opt for an engraved caseback, others have gone the route of completely overhauling the aesthetics of their watches. Like Hublot birthing the trend of rubber-strapped precious metal watches, someone has to be credited with starting the modding mayhem. Cue George Bamford, and the Bamford Watch Department. The backstory For George’s 18th birthday, the story goes,…

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08.11.2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser

Yesterday we explored the Top 10 sports watches under $10,000, but if you are willing to stretch your budget, there is an entirely new tier of top sports watches to explore as well. Here are 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10,000. Hublot Classic Fusion 40th Anniversary yellow gold The watch that birthed the luxury rubber trend, the Hublot 40th anniversary models are classic meets modern luxury sports watches. It blends the heritage of the brand with the Hublot we know today to create one of the most compelling watches within the category. The three watches come…

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07.11.2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty of just about every example here. So please understand, we are not above the law. We often break the law. Please forgive us, forgive yourselves, but let’s try to be better in 2021. OK? Thanks Zach, take it away … The watch enthusiast and collector…

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TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Anniversary 07.11.2020

We’re calling it: these are the best two vintage Carrera re-issues since the real thing. But which one is your favourite? And are you going to pull the trigger?

We’ve all likely seen these two glorious new Carrera references by now, but there are two hot questions remaining. Do you like either or both enough to pull the trigger? Because we have it on good authority that they’re just about done. You can pick them both up here until they’re gone. The second question is, which, in the end, is your favourite? TAG Heuer celebrate their 160th anniversary with two limited edition chronographs that each celebrate the essence of the brand in their own way. The TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition and the TAG Heuer Carrera…

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watch gift options under $5k 07.11.2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari

Sports watches have established themselves as the most sought-after and worn watches in the world. With a greater emphasis on outdoor activity and physical health, consumers need timepieces that can keep up with their active lifestyles. There has been no shortage of divers and chronographs this year, so we have compiled the best sports watches of 2020 under $10,000. Bulgari Aluminium time-only While this watch has taken previous forms over the years, its re-release in 2020 presents the most robust take on the aluminium model yet. With exceptional original design, the watch manages to have the heart and feel of…

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05.11.2020

Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month

WatchPro published an article today announcing the largest Rolex showroom in America is set to open in Boston in December. Originally meant to open earlier but delayed due to the COVID-19 crisis, the 4600 square foot showroom will be located within Long’s Jewelers – beating out current record holder Watches of Switzerland and their 3000 square foot showroom at Wynn Las Vegas. Located at 8 Newbury Street, the building was built in the 1920s and formerly housed a showroom for Rolls-Royce on its street level floor – clearly housing luxury product is in the building’s heritage. The store has quite…

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05.11.2020

Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore?

Look, we get it. Waitlists are frustrating, and watches are commanding higher values and premiums than ever before. But this has to be a new low. A Romanian couple has been caught red-handed, or rose-gold handed, attempting to steal a Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold from Audemars Piguet worth £67,000 GBP from venerated department store Harrods in the United Kingdom. According to the report, Ilie Para and Marta Para-Bloj, both 33, scoped out a particular model to steal from the Knightsbridge retailer, going so far as to take extensive photos of the watch to help them source a faithful…

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04.11.2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches…

As times change, the perception of the perfect fit evolves. When wristwatches were created, they were lauded for finally miniaturising the timepiece and making it a compact wearable object versus a large item that had to rest in a pocket. Now it seems, like American politics, the watch community is split in two: one party wants to upscale watches to larger sizes while another wants to bring back the classic sizes of yesteryear. I’ve heard and read people call for larger Submariners and Daytonas, or even bringing watches into the stratosphere of Panerai and Invicta sizing. I wonder who this…

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Friday Wind Down 6/11/20 04.11.2020

Retail versus secondhand: which 5 Rolex models have the most inflated prices on the seconds market?

Rolex watches are a universal status symbol, and among the most recognisable luxury items on the planet. The craze over their timepieces has never been greater, further propelling the brand away from its tool watch origins towards the pinnacle of luxury wristwear. With consumers flocking to buy out their catalogue, Rolex watches have become harder and harder to track down at retail – and as a result, conspiracies are rampant among consumers frustrated by enigmatic, Machiavellian waiting lists and seemingly scarce production. While it is not news to anyone that Rolex watches retain their value, we wanted to do a…

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Bulgari Aluminium Tricolore 03.11.2020

Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals

Editor’s note: Bulgari leapt to the aid of Australia earlier in the year, when they donated a glorious Serpenti to our Watch & Act! Auction in aid of the Australian bushfires. It turns out it wasn’t out of character. Since then the brand has shown tremendous moral leadership through 2020, and it continues with this special ‘Tricolore’ Edition of the Aluminium, which we’ve covered on video here and in a written review here. When the COVID-19 pandemic initially hit the world, Bulgari from the outset leveraged its resources in order to better service the Italian people. When hand sanitiser was in short…

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Apple Sales Swiss watch industry 03.11.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry

Whether you like it or not, the Apple Watch is here to stay and has proven itself the most popular wristwatch in the world. A watch for all people, whether working class, a professional athlete, or celebrity … everyone has seemed to hop on the Apple bandwagon. But is that really any surprise? The reality is it is an extension of your phone, another screen to engage with. Apple has already gotten users so addicted to their products, they introduced a screen time feature to help owners manage the amount of time they engage with their devices. In regard to…

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Eichi II 01.11.2020

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro

Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation about Rolex. The Eichi II, from Credor, is a watch most people do not have an option of seeing on-demand. It typically hits stores for showings for special events put together in honour of trade fairs or VIP customer gatherings. Thankfully, for those who have…

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01.11.2020

You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is…

The people have spoken, and it is clear that within the Fantasy Watch Collection 10K I was the people’s champion. I take great pride in my victory, listening to Queen’s “We Are the Champions” as I type this story. But I recognise I could not have won without your support, and thank you, the readers, for declaring me the winner of this segment. While I must confess that the two watches I selected were safely definitive crowd-pleasers, I truly stand by my choices and picked them without a desire to win the competition – these are genuinely the two watches…

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Trump versus Biden 31.10.2020

Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer?

We will have to wait to see who wins the election next week in the race for the presidency of the United States. In the meantime, we thought it would be a good time to check in and see what watches President Trump and former Vice President Biden have been wearing as of late. Politics is politics, watches are watches. The twain shall not necessarily meet in this contest. Two men, two different philosophies, and two different watch collections – politics aside, just which candidate has the better watch collection? Joe Biden Omega Seamaster 300M The most frequently spotted watch…

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Bruce Springsteen Anthony Kiedis Tudor Rolex 31.10.2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 3 – Wilsdorf Watches

In this final instalment of the Rockstars Rocking Vintage trilogy, we see two famous musicians go the way of Wilsdorf. He founded both Tudor and Rolex, and here we have spotted two desirable tool watches from the Wilsdorf group on the wrists of two artists from different generations – once again proving that vintage staples are timeless and appreciated by everyone truly initiated in the hobby. Anthony Kiedis – Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 in stainless steel Recently we showcased celebrities who wear blacked-out Milgauss watches from Rolex, and though Anthony Kiedis was on the list, he has also been…

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watch case materials 30.10.2020

3 gold sports watches that are cheaper than their steel siblings, including AP, Rolex and Patek Philippe

Stainless steel watches have definitely captured the hearts and wallets of collectors, with consumers joining waitlists for desired models and praying they can snag one “at-retail”. The VIP nature of the access, and the level of spend it takes to get in the good graces of dealers, has become so significant it is arguably less expensive to just cough up the premium on the grey market. Still, it can leave a bitter taste in your mouth knowing you’ve paid almost twice as much as the retail price of the watch. It’s just the principle really. But what if you could…

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hammer prices of celebrity owned watches 30.10.2020

How much value does the “Celebrity X Factor” add to the hammer price at auctions?

Editors note: While you might think these uncertain times would lead to a decline in luxury spending, auction houses are still raking in a great deal of money – with collectors assuaging their boredom under lockdown with incredible timepieces that come up for auction. The market for hot vintage watches is still going strong, with even modern in-demand models commanding unexpected premiums. As my colleague Brendan would put it – high-value vintage watches have proven themselves”pandemic-proof“. This reminded me of an article we published some time ago, which explored the hammer prices of celebrity-owned watches, and whether or not the “X factor”…

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Six Rockstars Rocking Vintage 30.10.2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 2 – Paul Newman Daytonas only

Ever since the “panda” dial Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sold for the GDP of a small African nation, it’s become the preserve of mega-rich rockstars only. And thus, we have just two examples of rockstars wearing it, one from the new school – old mate, Ed Sheeran who is quite the enthusiast and journeyman Eric Clapton. Both on Bund strap, both frequently on stage, and both stellar examples. If there’s ever been inspiration needed to work on your songsmithing to fund your watch habit, surely this is it? Eric Clapton – Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona ref. 6239 white “panda” dial in…

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Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J 29.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who spot the watch. Seiko raises the bar once again, introducing two new flavours of their cocktail watches with the limited edition Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J. The case The case is made of polished stainless steel in a wearable happy medium of proportions that should…

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29.10.2020

Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here…

The luxury watch industry is only growing around the world, and with many online publishers covering the world of horology extensively it has never been easier to learn about timepieces, their value, and the level of demand. One thing I do truly love about this hobby is there is a clear sense of community, a watchfam so to speak, that tries to look out for each other whenever possible. Today I would like to draw our attention to a very unfortunate incident that hit one of the most respected vintage watch dealers in the world: Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Image: Ⓒ…

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Six Rockstars Rocking Vintage 29.10.2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition

Celebrity watch spotting is a pastime of watch enthusiasts — there is something more genuine about a watch in the wild on a famous wrist than a planted timepiece as part of a contractual ambassadorship. While many opt for flashy precious metal and gemstone-covered watches to convey a sense of status and success that ties to their celebrity, those in the know can tell which celebrities are truly one of us. Usually by displaying impeccable taste with Phillips-worthy vintage creations slapped on their wrists. This kicks off a three-part series of rockstars rocking vintage watches — spotted with some help from…

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27.10.2020

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY

With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch industry as a whole. Back in September, the first-ever virtual lecture was held and featured none other than vintage watch collector and dealer Eric Ku. The idea driving the lecture was “Collecting Watches in the Time of COVID-19”, and, over the course of a little…

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25.10.2020

Those crazy bastards at Watchonista are sponsoring a NASCAR team

Editor’s note: There’s always been a healthy competitiveness between Time+Tide and Watchonista. This was evident when we recently did an Instagram live session that quickly degenerated into a State Of The Collection showdown between Andrew, Josh, and his wife Viviana. Now, they’ve gone and upped the ante by sponsoring a NASCAR team. So, if there are any obscure sports out there that have prominent branding opportunities, we’d like to hear from you. The Nordland Wife-Carrying Association? The Shropshire Bog-Snorkelling League? No sport will be excluded from our consideration. Please note: Payment in T-shirts, magazines and watch straps. Game on, Watchonista ……

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24.10.2020

The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit

One of the key pillars of a well-made watch is legibility. Consumers are always critical of how a dial is laid out and how strong and visible the luminescent material becomes once it’s in a darker setting. The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT brightens up 2020 with its fully lumed dial. This watch is seriously lit. The case The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the world’s slimmest self-winding watch with a chronograph and GMT function, with a 42mm extra-thin titanium case that is only 6.90mm thick. The case maintains the baroque faceted profile,…

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wristwatch VPH 22.10.2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is whether or not it has a sweeping seconds hands. But as enthusiasts and collectors are aware, not all sweeping hands beat to the same drum. To the naked eye, the differences can be hard to detect, but thanks to the maestro of macro, @horomaribro, today…

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Blacked Out Rolex 21.10.2020

What is it with celebrities and blacked-out Rolex Milgauss models? 5 examples, from Bourdain to Goldblum and beyond

Like it or loathe it, ‘modding’ watches is here to stay. And it’s increasingly accessible to you at any price point. At the lower end, you have the thriving, escalating world of @seikomods. At the highest end, you can modify your Piaget Ultimate Concept any which way you like. And in celebrity-land, you have the longtime practice of ‘blacking out’ your Rolex – and, in the process, bringing Hollywood flair to standard Rolex references, in particular, it seems, the Milgauss. We have written about several businesses that offer this service – Artisans de Genève, Blaken, Titan, and Project X Designs,…

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20.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years

It is fair to argue that the two most popular watch categories that find their way onto the wrists of buyers around the world are dive watches and chronographs. Both have their merits and are classic staples of the watch industry, but what if there was a way to have both? The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH not only presents a diver’s chronograph watch, but also brings forth the beloved spectrum of colour that DOXA has become known for. The case The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH case is made of 316L stainless steel, has a diameter of 45mm and is 17.4mm thick…

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Seiko Prospex SBP183J 20.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue

A proven trend within the world of watches is for brands to reinterpret historic models within their archives for modern-day release. Seiko has revived and renewed one of their classic ’70s divers with the new Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. ⁣ The case While slightly larger than the original, the Seiko Prospex SPB183J is faithful in almost every other aspect of its design. The 42.7mm stainless steel case has a super-hard coating, making this a great candidate for daily wear. The case is mostly satin finished, with hairline bevels and polish on the outer flanks of the case.…

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18.10.2020

8 signs you’re becoming a watch snob

Watch enthusiasts do not always share the Swiss philosophy of neutrality. Being enthusiastic about something inevitably leads to hot takes, strong and stubborn opinions and, in turn, some snobbery. On the wrong day, I am definitely guilty of it myself – we’re all human after all. The reality is this niche hobby becomes less welcoming when we, as enthusiasts, dismiss others, especially when it’s already intimidating enough due to the nature of luxury products and their prices. Here are eight signs you’re becoming a watch snob. You dismiss quartz as “not luxury” In watch collecting culture, quartz has gotten a…

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NBA Champions watches 2020 17.10.2020

One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions

2020 has definitely been a chaotic year with the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic worldwide. Blockbuster films have been delayed, major music festivals cancelled, but at least one American pastime managed to go on relatively unscathed – NBA Basketball. Twenty-two teams participated in the 2020 NBA season, held within a quarantined bubble that both players and staff had to remain inside of throughout the duration of the season. At the end of an exciting series, the Los Angeles Lakers took the championship title home after their Game 6 win over the Miami Heat. While not necessarily the first question on the minds…

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16.10.2020

6 fabulous rainbow watches released in 2020, from $180 – $5000+

When you hear about rainbow watches, you are typically presented with very high-cost luxury pieces that incorporate lustrous coloured gemstones that impose a very high premium on top of already pricey precious watches. Upon closer inspection, there are actually more rainbow options than you would think – affordable options at that. Here are six fabulous rainbow watches that won’t necessarily break the bank. Timex + Todd Snyder Pride Watch Todd Snyder and Timex have teamed up to create arguably the best value proposition in rainbow watches. The Pride Watch is a nod to the time when the Gay Rights Movement adopted…

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Grand Seiko SLGH003 15.10.2020

Celebrate! The Grand Seiko SLGH003 brings the mind-bending dual impulse escapement in the 9SA5 movement to steel

Grand Seiko has been a true value proposition for collectors since its rebirth, providing some of the highest quality watches for your dollar. Many have had some contention with the inevitable reality that the brand would eventually go further upmarket, anxious that their latest and greatest technical innovations would be out of reach of the more common consumer. The next instalment in the 60th anniversary collection, the Grand Seiko SLGH003, assuages the minds and wallets of everyone who was in awe of the new 9SA5 movement, which until yesterday was only offered in a high-price precious metal model: the SLGH002.…

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Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold 14.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold

Brands such as Rolex, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe have all incorporated rubber into their high-end watches, but there can only be one pioneer who got the party started. Forty years ago, Hublot founder and designer Carlo Crocco took the watch world by storm, pairing a porthole-inspired yellow gold watch with a rubber strap integrated into its case. While they were not necessarily the first watch company to take inspiration from nautical design, Hublot was the first to make rubber straps a staple in luxury wear back in 1980. Upon the release of the original Classic Fusion, it immediately caught…

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14.10.2020

8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition

At first glance, many assume that in order to get your feet wet in the horology hobby you have to shell out thousands and thousands of dollars to get a quality watch. The reality is there are plenty of more affordable options in the marketplace to elevate your wrist game, and gain the attention and respect of even the most serious collectors. Here are eight watches that get the nod from watch snobs – all under $1000. Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K Starting this list off with a bang, this has to be the most gorgeous blue dial (or…

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Grail Watch trading 10.10.2020

TRADING FACES: A Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner?

As a collection grows, at times it means a collector needs to be prepared to trade or sell one of their pieces in order to fund the next. At a certain point, many collectors adopt a ‘one in, one out’ policy in order to curb spending or keep a collection compact and refined. This is the story of one of the bigger trades I have made in my time as a collector, and how (and why) I was able to get my dream sports watch: a Rolex Submariner ref. 114060.   What I traded … Omega Speedmaster Automatic (ref. 323.30.40.40.04.001)…

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watch lug to lug 07.10.2020

Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 2

Editor’s note: As we discussed here and in Part 1 of this article, watch lug to lug is an oft misunderstood element in finding the perfect fitting watch to your wrist. Here’s why.  Ressence Type 1 Slim (42mm x 46mm) While some Ressence Type references push upwards of 52mm lug to lug, if you are looking for one of their more compact offerings, the Type 1 Slim is your best bet. At 46mm in lug to lug measurement, the 42mm case wears very well on the wrist. Its wire lugs taper the strap downward, creating an absence of unnecessary fixed…

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07.10.2020

Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 1

Yesterday, we published an explainer on why lug to lug measurement is a better fit-telling metric than case diameter. Today, we’re continuing the theme, with yet more examples, this time with a focus on big watches that are suitable for smaller wrists. At the end of the day there is no substitute for trying on a watch in the metal, but making a trip to your local AD is not always an option. Lug to lug measurement, in my opinion, is the best way to guesstimate if a watch will flatter your wrist when buying a watch online – and…

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06.10.2020

3 watches that prove the ‘lug to lug’ measurement is a more important metric for fit than case diameter

Whenever we look at a watch’s specifications online, we generally find the usual suspects – case diameter and thickness, depth rating, type of crystal, number of jewels in the movement and so on. But this information omits perhaps the most important detail; the ‘lug to lug’ measurement. Although commonly discussed within the enthusiast community, very rarely are the lug to lug measurements of a watch listed within the provided specifications from the brands.  What is lug to lug? Zach, slow down buddy, what exactly is lug to lug? For the uninitiated, the lug to lug measurement of a watch is…

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05.10.2020

Snow. My. God. The Grand Seiko SBGR319 presents a different take on the Snowflake

Editor’s pick: The Grand Seiko SBGR319 limited edition for the Asian market presents a new take on the brand’s world-renowned snow-driven aesthetics. Almost a year ago, Felix  did a video review of this incarnation of a winter-themed dial (along with a fetching red horizontally striped variant, the SBGH269) that presented a fresh new layer of snow to the brand’s Heritage Collection. Here, we dive a little deeper into the SBGR319, which remains an exceedingly tempting snow-themed option that is not THE snow-themed option that has become a legend, the Snowflake.  The case The case is a millimetre or two larger than the usual suspects…

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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Funky Blue Black Edition 03.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition

For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute luxury brand that understands how to mix fun with haute horology. After all, this is the brand that made a watch out of Swiss cheese as well as took a direct shot/jab at the Apple Watch with its Swiss Alp watch – a clever, playful,…

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02.10.2020

Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four…

It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only readily available for most on the grey market – with commensurate premiums and markups attached. While the financially fortunate are able to succour to these higher prices, and in the process skip the enigma that is the Rolex “wait list”, most everyday consumers are left…

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Bremont U-2 Blue 27.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Bremont U-2 Blue is the fresh summer watch Australians (and the world) need right now

With Aussie summer approaching, it means beach and barbecue season has arrived – and the Bremont U-2 Blue is the perfect watch for either occasion. Whether timing a dive, or delicious food on the grill, the Bremont U-2 Blue is ready to take on summer fun in style. The case The watched is housed in a 43mm hardened stainless steel case, featuring the brand’s proprietary Trip-Tick® construction that provides added shock resistance. The Bremont U-2 Blue, being an evolution of the Martin-Baker lineup, is also built to withstand the MB ejection program. The watch also features Bremont’s patented inner bi-directional…

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Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition 26.09.2020

Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph

Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one of the fortunate buyers of the handsome bronze Hanhart that’s been dominating feeds lately. Also note that stories like these require the writer to take their own pics. The whole angle is subjective and firsthand. So, over to you Zach … Why? How? All of…

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Shinola Detrola 23.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch

Shinola is an American luxury design brand that manufactures various products – from timepieces, leather goods, jewellery, and even audio equipment. Founded in 2011, the company operates an in-house watch and leather factory based within the fifth floor of the historic Argonaut Building, where a team of artisans hand assembles timepieces and crafts premium leather straps. A year after Shinola was founded, in 2012, they transformed 12,000 square feet of raw space into their very own state-of-the-art watch factory in Detroit. Their watch teams continually participate in extensive training with their Swiss partner Ronda AG. The factory assembles between 500 and…

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Zero West 21.09.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West Spitfire S4-P9427 celebrates the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain with 80 watches

Zero West is a new British brand of boutique, heritage-inspired watches. All of their watches are designed and assembled on the South Coast of the UK (with assembly performed by a third-generation watchmaker 10 miles away from where the watches are designed). Zero West was founded by Andrew Brabyn, a designer, and Graham Collins, an ex-black ops military engineer, which explains the emphasis on designs with a military flavour. Zero West produces three lines of watches: Aviation, Marine and Automotive — all of which are limited editions. Each watch reference has a rich backstory rooted in British history. The recently released…

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Seiko Prospex Save The Oceans SRPE33K 17.09.2020

The new Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K has a scratched blue ocean dial you have to see to believe…

An automatic dive watch that brings value to both your wrist and environmental efforts, the Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean SRPE33K is the latest special edition made in honour of protecting the ocean. Across the board, Seiko is known for providing high horological value at lower price points than its Swiss peers and the “Save the Ocean” special editions are an absolute exemplar of this. They have consistently been knockout watches with some of the best blue dials for your dollar. And boy, have they truly outdone themselves with this one. The case and bracelet The case is robust, made of…

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Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties 16.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form

It cannot be refuted how much Switzerland has influenced horology and the luxury watch industry at large. As a result, designs across brands can seem familiar when they all draw from the same well of inspiration and technique. Bulgari, however, continues to stand out from the pack, blending its Swiss watchmaking know-how with its Italian mastery of design. The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties are clear examples of the fact that “high-jewellery” and “high-watchmaking” artisans can work in tandem to create pure magic for the wrist. All of these watches are true works of art from the Roman Jeweller of…

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Apple Watch Series 6 16.09.2020

The 5 best new features of the new Apple Watch Series 6, including panda dials and GMT faces

The Apple Watch has been a point of contention with watch collectors since its debut in April of 2015. When the dust settles from the rants and snobbery, one fact becomes clear – the Apple Watch is the most complicated piece of wristwear for the dollar in the entire world. The Apple Watch Series 6 and SE models are the latest smartwatches from Apple, and you are sure to see plenty of coverage on these releases across the web. So rather than recap the specs and features, let’s focus on five things that are new to the Apple Watch lineup.…

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15.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)

Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models — in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and perpetual calendar versions. And now, something a little more spicy. The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions bring a subtle, yet powerful punch of RedBar flavour to the new lineup of Highlife watches.   The case(s): The two Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions are…

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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem 11.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem

Hublot is known around the world for their larger, bold designs. Some collections literally have the word bold in their nomenclature. While this reference does not, the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem is definitely one of their boldest designs yet – both technically and aesthetically. The case Hublot has made a huge investment in the industrialisation of sapphire – a notoriously difficult material to produce. This sapphire, or SAXEM, case is a deep green that can compete with the finest emeralds, with a brilliance that comes close to that of a diamond. SAXEM, an acronym for Sapphire Aluminium…

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Bulgari Aluminium collection 09.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection

Bulgari has revived a late ’90s classic with the new Bulgari Aluminium collection this year. A great blend of daily and luxury wear, these lightweight watches pack a heavy punch. While watch designs can be quite homogenous in a traditional industry, the new Bulgari Aluminium 2020 models are welcome revivals with their distinct Bulgari aesthetic. The case(s) These new models are fabricated in a great everyday material: aluminium. While aluminium is not considered a luxury material, when done right, it can provide a luxury experience on the wrist. The lightweight aluminium makes for an elegant yet sporty and smart-casual aesthetic.…

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Kurono watches 07.09.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more

Last year, self-taught watchmaking artisan and creative genius Hajime Asaoka decided he wanted to launch a more accessible range of watches to satiate those who loved his creations but could not afford them. The bespoke watches made under Hajime Asaoka’s name start at around $40,000 USD and take a year or more to produce. Kurono Tokyo, however, is a different story. As the Kurono watches website explains, “Kurono aims to deliver to watch collectors a more accessible timepiece that shares the design DNA of Hajime’s exclusive handmade atelier watches, at affordable levels.”  To date (not including the Japanese Domestic Market references…

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A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 36mm review 06.09.2020

IN-DEPTH: My A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 36mm in yellow gold is the grail that keeps on giving

Over the past five years or so, I have bought, traded and sold watches in order to build and grow my collection. Two months ago, I was able to acquire a watch that I am still in disbelief I am able to own and wear. High on my grail list, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 221.021 was always an endgame watch for me. It was something I wanted to work towards and eventually be able to call mine. They say don’t meet your heroes, in the worry they may disappoint you once you meet them in the flesh…

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05.09.2020

Is Rolex trend-chasing with its new colourful range of Oyster Perpetual models? A look back into the brand’s colourful past…

The wild profusion of colours in the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection caught many by surprise this week. And it immediately had people drawing parallels with the colour suites of other brands. It begs the question, are these new sporty and youthful lacquer dials – in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green – a blast from Rolex’s past, or something completely new, perhaps inspired by other brands? A Brief History of Rolex Dials and Color Rolex is primarily known as a brand of modesty and incremental change, built upon robust and reliable watches. More often than not, you will…

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03.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm

Girard-Perregaux was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. The workshops origins were actually as early as 1791, but were not acquired by Girard-Perregaux completely until 1906. Though its history and heritage is in line with brands such as Patek Philippe (1839), Vacheron Constantin (1755), and Audemars Piguet (1875), Girard-Perregaux has not necessarily achieved the same brand power as the holy trinity mentioned prior. That being said, the brand has always made great watches both aesthetically and horologically — and the new Laureato Infinity Editions are a powerful…

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03.09.2020

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2

During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the hands are blued Many brands will chemically dye watch parts blue, or blue them in batches via an oven-like machine that can lack consistency. This is the reason why the craftsmen at Grand Seiko will only heat-blue the hands one hand at a time. Aside…

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02.09.2020

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 1

While Grand Seiko has more and more collectors and watch buyers on their radar, with a community of fans growing each day, there is always more to discover when it comes to this esteemed Japanese watch manufacturer. While visiting the Nature of Time Exhibition, going through each of its eight stations and speaking with staff along the way, I was continually taken aback by the facts and tidbits I was learning. While I consider myself quite knowledgeable on the brand, I discovered just how much more there was to learn about their watches and those who craft and assemble them.…

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01.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Rolex Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex for the first time

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is back – pairing Yellow and Everose versions with Oysterflex bracelets for the first time. Oysterflex has become a fan favorite due to its tough, sporty, and adjustable build. The complicated cosmopolitan of the Rolex catalogue with this new configuration becomes a bit more casual and approachable in terms of look and fit. The case & bezel   The two new Sky-Dweller models are, for the moment, limited to yellow and Everose gold cases with sophisticated fluted bezels that blend a sporty watch with formal wear aesthetics. At 42mm in diameter, the watches are by no…

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01.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit”

Green is known to be a special colour for Rolex. In recent eras, to buy a new Rolex sports watch that had any parts fabricated in this particular green you would have to secure a stainless steel Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II, or yellow gold Rolex Daytona. It is usually quite rare that the “Rolex Green” makes it on to one of their steel sports models, with the Rolex Submariner “Hulk” being one of the most sought-after watches in the world – many leaving their authorised dealers empty-handed with at best a false sense they will climb…

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28.08.2020

Wrist Game: Australians in the NBA and their watches, including Kyrie Irving, Ben Simmons & Patty Mills

Since the days of the ’90s Chicago Bulls, led by the great Michael Jordan, basketball has become more and more of an international sport around the globe. Players from all over the world are recruited to play with the best of the best in the National Basketball Association (NBA). Australia is no exception; in fact some of the best players in the league today are Aussie born and bred. Not only have these athletes proven they have game on the court, but on their wrists as well. Let’s take a look at the wrist game of some of the Australians…

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Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball 26.08.2020

WATCH SPOTTING: Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball and the interesting story behind it

During the pandemic, many have used the time at home to catch up on a recommended TV series or film they may have missed in busier times, or re-watch some comforting favourites. In my seventh or eighth run-through of The West Wing television series, I almost spilled my beer in excitement when I spotted an Omega dress watch on my favourite fictional president (Bartlet 2020?). This hobby has made watch lovers increasingly aware of what actors are wearing on their wrists. Just the other week I got a message from a buddy asking me what was on Sam Neill’s wrist…

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23.08.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Joe Biden’s watch called “the perfect foil to Trump” by GQ

Cam Wolf of GQ has made yet another great watchspot in his latest “Watches of the Week” column. Cam spots Joe Biden wearing an Omega Seamaster 300M with a black dial on his wrist during the Democratic National Convention. As Cam explains, this is not the only Omega Mr Biden owns – as he has also been spotted wearing an Omega Speedmaster and earlier generations of Seamaster divers as well. Cam takes it a step further then just naming the watch on Mr Biden’s wrist. He also compares and contrasts the wrist choices of the two men going head to head…

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22.08.2020

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27­-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael Monfils, previously an ambassador for De Bethune from 2014-2017, is a known collector of watches – having gone so far as to create a dedicated Instagram @myson.watches with some pretty tasty watch content. Nick featured it in Great ’Grams recently; check out the story if you…

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22.08.2020

The new G-Shock GMWB5000TCF-2 “Blue Camo” is available for pre-order

At the end of July, I wrote a hands-on review of my G-Shock GMWB5000TCM Titanium Camouflage. While that limited edition is likely almost sold out, anybody who may have missed out on that initial run may find a second wind in this familiar yet fresh take on the model. The GMWB5000TCF-2 is exactly the same in specifications as the previous model, super lightweight titanium, shock and scratch resistant, 200 meters water resistant, and a solar powered battery that when fully charged lasts almost two years without getting kissed with sunlight. It differs, however, in the execution of its finish. Whereas…

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beginner tips watch collecting 22.08.2020

5 mistakes I have made on my watch-collecting journey

Although I have not been collecting for decades, over the past five years or so I have definitely gained a lot of insight, through trial and error, on some best practices if one is going to go down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. As John Mayer points out in the first-ever Talking Watches with Hodinkee, the first watches (in his case, 10-12) one buys will not reflect your collecting values as you progress in the hobby, and it’s inevitable to have regrets and make mistakes along the way. Here are five lessons I’ve learned during my own watch-collecting journey…

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16.08.2020

10 great value watches under $1000 you’re likely to spot at get-togethers in America – Part 2

The theme of this list is simple. Great value watches at reasonable prices that get the nod from watch lovers at a get-together. Because we all likely know that there’s nothing worse, at said watch-related event, to get a nod of recognition of the watch you’re wearing without any follow-up questions, or a request to hold/try on. It’s always good to bring a little intrigue with your wrist game. And everybody loves a value proposition, no matter what drip they can afford. Behold, part two of the 10 most popular watches under $1000 USD list. Check out part one here. …

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15.08.2020

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for)

Is your feed currently flooded with the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” Exhibition in New York City? There’s a reason for that. Taking place Downtown in the SoHo area, in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, this event has completely raised the bar for watch pop-ups. As thoughtful in design as the watches themselves, the exhibition provides fans of the brand (both old and new) a completely immersive and spacious display of some of the best – and rarest – models the brand has to offer. According to Grand Seiko, the unique Nature of Time Experience was inspired by Japan’s spring…

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G-Shock G-LIDE 14.08.2020

INTRODUCING: The G-Shock G-LIDE tells both time and tide, surfers rejoice

While there is certainly something emotional and special that is particular to mechanical timepieces, there are just certain things they will never be able to do as well as digital watches. Case in point: the new GBX100 models are the latest additions to the G-Shock G-LIDE lineup of sports watches, a known favourite among some of the world’s top surfers and ocean adventurers.  These three new models come in a familiar robust G-Shock package … but with a twist. These models, in particular, have the ability to display information required by surfers, jet-skiers, boat barons, sea captains, and even those…

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13.08.2020

10 of the most popular watches under $1000 spotted at get-togethers in America – Part 1

As a regular attendant of various get-togethers (or ‘GTGs’ for the time poor) for watch enthusiasts in New York, you can get used to seeing some pretty outstanding watches in the wild. While many flex their recent Rolex acquisition or the perfectly patinated vintage Speedmaster, there are also a fair share of watches that while lower in monetary value, still pack a mighty horological punch. True enthusiasts of the hobby understand it doesn’t take a second mortgage on your house to afford a well-built watch. So, I’ve been keeping notes on the most popular affordable models on the ground in…

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11.08.2020

The G-Shock x Dragon Ball Z Limited Edition GA110JDB-1A4 has the best backlit dial of 2020

Coming in hot like a Ki Blast, G-Shock is expanding its releases in collaboration with the internationally renowned Dragon Ball Z franchise across the globe. And this new GA110JDB is both the ultimate wristwear for Dragon Ball Z fans, and a watch that – in general – makes perfect sense in 2020, because it’s wild. Like the standard production model, this watch is outfitted with a mineral crystal, a 200-metre water resistant case (with resistance to both magnetism and shocks), and CR1220 battery which should keep the watch running for 2 years. Its dimensions are ready for battle at 55.0mm…

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Gevril Tribeca 08.08.2020

The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches

Homage watches within the enthusiast community can be quite a contentious topic at times. Are they rip-offs? Cash cows? Sell-outs? Unoriginal? The reality is opinions can vary, but the true metric or equaliser of any watch to an extent is how they perform on the grey or second-hand market. While the objective of most homage watches is to supply a mass-produced low-cost alternative to widely renowned designs, the Gevril Tribeca has established itself as the textbook example of how to release an homage watch. The watch is so desirable that it now sells at practically three times or more its…

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Patek 5066 Aquanaut 07.08.2020

This is why I didn’t trade my entire collection for my grail, a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut

Almost two years ago I had the opportunity to acquire a watch that was on my grail list – the Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut. The deal Not having an unlimited source of funds to blow on a beautiful watch, the transaction necessitated that I not part with one of my watches, but rather all of the watches in my collection (in addition to a few thousand dollars). Like a fantasy football trade, to get one of the best of the best it meant I needed to let go of some pretty well-known brands and watches to get close to their…

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05.08.2020

IN-DEPTH: What is Credor and why should I care about it? Plus 7 of the best models

For those outside of Japan, the Credor brand is quite an enigma. The two well known facts are likely that Credor is tied to the Seiko Corporation in some way. And that Credor watches sell at a dizzying range of price points. Beyond that is quite the mystery, so we have done some digging on your behalf.  What does the name mean and when was it founded? The name Credor comes from the French “Créte d’Or”, meaning “the ultimate of the gold” and it was founded in 1974. The name gives away that Credor watches were originally crafted only in…

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10 Grand Seiko models exclusive to US market 01.08.2020

Exploring the 10 Grand Seiko models exclusive to the US market

With the United States being one of the largest importers of Swiss watches, it should come as no surprise that Grand Seiko wants to try to grab a larger share of the market. To tackle the US, Grand Seiko has a dedicated team in America — Grand Seiko America — to introduce the wonders of the brand to the consumer. While some of their renowned references are Japanese Domestic Market only, with their sights on the American marketplace they have introduced some exquisite and artistic models exclusive to stores in the US (in both limited editions as well as regular production…

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BAPE x SWATCH 01.08.2020

INTRODUCING: BAPE x Swatch 2020, a Big Bold 47mm statement watch

Streetwear fans rejoice, Swatch and BAPE (A Bathing Ape for those not in the know) are back with another big and bold collection. As far as #details go, this watch comes fully loaded. Taking up where last year’s collaboration left off, this new collection is a colourful collision of styles. BAPE brings the disruptive and unconventional flair, and Swatch meets it with their years of innovation and traditional Swiss know-how. The result is the 47mm Big Bold Watch, which is what we refer to as a ‘statement piece’. From the case to the bezel and even the strap, the design…

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how to get jdm watches 30.07.2020

The best JDM Seiko and Grand Seiko watches and how you can get them, even if you don’t live in Japan

Within the thriving community of Seiko and Grand Seiko enthusiasts, some of the most highly prized watches are released only in the Japanese Domestic Market and the magic acronym you’ll hear more than any other in this community is indeed ‘JDM’. These JDM pieces might not be the most expensive, or limited in production numbers, but for anyone living outside of Japan they are highly prized for being tricky to get in other countries around the world. So how to get JDM watches out of Japan? It certainly isn’t impossible to add a JDM reference to your collection. You just…

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great watches that use DLC 30.07.2020

A MONTH ON THE WRIST: Is the shockingly light G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM in titanium worth the price premium?

In what could be seen as an appeal to Swiss watch collectors – or perhaps just those who prefer lighter watches – G-Shock decided to take their full-metal GMW-B5000 line to the next level. G-Shock has now introduced titanium into their lineup of square-faced design watches inspired by their historic G-Shock DW-5000C. I’ve owned mine for a month, and have plenty to say about it.  Firstly, the case, band, bezel, and caseback of this model are all made of very lightweight titanium, weighing in at 110g in total (with their previous steel models weighing 167g). Producing the Full Metal line…

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