Time and Tide Watches

Australian Watch Authority

Zach Blass

Posts by Zach:

Rolex Sub 24.07.2021

Sorry Matt, but I would never put my Rolex Submariner on a rubber strap

Matt. I hear you. You made your case. But I would never, ever, remove the bracelet from my Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 – or any Rolex for that matter. I cry blasphemy here not because a rubber strap looks particularly bad on the watch, in fact I concede it looks fine and is probably very comfortable if you can affix your clasp to the strap to, in the case of the Submariner, maintain the level of adjustability offered by GlideLock. But I just couldn’t do it to my Rolex Sub. More often than not, I am known to be a…

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Friday Wind Down 23.07.2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Nautilus scandal and Jeff Bezos’ Speedmaster

This is a new era for our Friday Wind Down. The recurring column has previously served as a recap of the stories published on the site, but you know what? We’ve decided to make it so much more. Now that this ‘Merican is behind the wheel, I want to take this moment to review the week in watches and give you the lowdown on the big stories on the wrists that matter. The week in watches: Nautilus nonsense The largest pot-stirrer this week was the news of a Patek Philippe 5711/1A-014 hitting the auction block at Antiquorum in Monaco. Nautilus…

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Kurono Toki 22.07.2021

OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki

At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new SLGH005 White Birch from Grand Seiko, but as an owner of the SBGA211 Snowflake, the disciplined collector in me feels that it may not be the best fit for my existing collection. So what would it take for me to buy a Grand Seiko Series…

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22.07.2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Remembering when Gael Monfils smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

EDITOR’S NOTE: At Time+Tide we don’t like safe queens. Instead we believe that watches are meant to be worn and enjoyed in the cut and thrust of a full-contact lifestyle. Which is why we love the French tennis player Gael Monfils. Rather than baby this Greubel Forsey GMT Sport worth $500,000, see what happens when he puts it through a stress test of savage ferocity. Gael Monfils, previously an ambassador for De Bethune from 2014-2017, is a known collector of watches – having gone so far as to create a dedicated Instagram @myson.watches with some pretty tasty watch content. He…

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Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K 21.07.2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K

When it comes to evaluating a new watch, many of us play the “what if” game. What if the watch had a blue dial? What if it had a grey bezel? The new Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K puts that idea into action with a new limited-edition design chosen by fans of the brand worldwide. The result of the “Custom Watch Beatmaker” campaign, the new SRPH19K won the most votes out of 48,000 designs submitted by up and coming artists all around the world. Each design was paired with a song, and then left to you, the people, to democratically…

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Jen Selter 21.07.2021

Fitness model Jen Selter understands the robust elegance of a Rolex Datejust

When it comes to wristwatches, Rolex is the manufacturer known as “the crown”, but the queen of fitness is American model Jen Selter. With over 12 million followers on Instagram, Selter took the world by storm with the “Seltering” pose trend and became widely known for having “the best butt on Instagram”. But to get such a posterior it takes a lot of hard work and dedication, and if a watch were to undergo her rigorous fitness regimen  it would need to be a highly robust wear. Throughout her posts on social media it becomes very clear that Selter is…

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Limited Edition 17.07.2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Limited Edition

The movement is obviously a huge aspect of any timepiece and something you should look into at length. It is, after all, the heart of a watch and what makes it, quite literally, tick. But I think, if we are all being honest about what draws us to a particular watch, the external looks that are the biggest factor of all. This is where Hublot is an absolute industry leader, fully living up to their motto “the art of fusion”. Hublot as a brand is very bold with the materials they use, mastering a variety of case mediums to create…

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Kulture Richard Mille 17.07.2021

Offset one-ups Cardi B, gifting daughter a 250K+ Richard Mille for her 3rd birthday

Ok. Holy s**t. We already know the comments will pour in denouncing the level of extravagance at play here, but at the end of the day, what hip-hop couple Offset and Cardi B give their daughter Kulture for her birthday is their decision. Admittedly, the gift is by no means the typical present for one’s third birthday, but I think it is fair to say that Cardi B and Offset are anything but basic. Their bold personalities clearly extend to their purchases as became glaringly clear this week. Most people receive a luxury watch for major milestones – graduations, engagements,…

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21st birthday watches 16.07.2021

The best 21st birthday watches for every budget

Twenty-first birthdays mean different things around the world. It could mean your first legal drink in America, graduating college, or even starting a new job or internship. The common thread is that you are full on adulting now, and at Time+Tide we believe part of being a grown-up is having a trusted wristwatch strapped to your wrist. We get it: watches are not something that anyone absolutely needs in the era of the modern pocket watch – the smartphone. But we also know that many of you still want one anyway, as they stir up a practical and emotional connection…

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Tudor Andrew just bought 16.07.2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Monster crocodiles, bronze Tudors & TAG Heuer’s Super Mario hook-up

In Australia, the Northern Territory is known for its crocodiles and colourful characters. Positioned in the central north of the country, it spans about 1.35 million sq km and is closer to Bali than Bondi. The state’s remote position and savage heat means that it preserves a wild spirit that makes the rest of the country seem comparatively staid. For better or worse, the modern image of the area is largely shaped by the notorious local paper the NT News, whose front pages invariably fuel the more wide-eyed stereotypes. Suffice to say, gigantic crocodiles feature heavily. To be fair, there’s…

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Great dive watches over 300m 15.07.2021

Hardcore divers at lightweight prices: Great dive watches over 300m water resistance

Let’s face it: most of us will never put on a scuba suit and head down to the darkest depths of the ocean in order to do a spot of sub-aquatic treasure hunting. But watch purchases kindle a sense of emotional connection, a form of expression that conveys our dreams and aspirations. The same way John Mayer becomes Mr. John C. Mayer when he straps on his Patek Philippe, or we all feel a bit more like James Bond when we arm our wrists with a Seamaster or Submariner, having a highly water-resistant diver on the wrist strikes a chord…

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Classic with a Twist 14.07.2021

Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity with Melbourne exhibition

Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest manufacturers still producing watches today. A known member of the holy trinity, their timepieces have captured the eyes, hearts, and wrists of the world’s foremost collectors due to their distinct designs and exquisite finishings. Many brands have a tagline that sums up their manufacture, but Vacheron’s motto “one of not many” truly goes beyond a marketing department boardroom. Their haute horology designs leverage unique Art Deco aesthetics that convey a timeless elegance even to this day. One such watch, the American 1921, is celebrating its 100th birthday this year and as a result…

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Seiko SBGY007 14.07.2021

VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007

Grand Seiko has continually dazzled us this past year with a variety of strong releases. Each reference upholds the brand’s grammar of design, a winning formula to produce highly technical and aesthetic timepieces. One of the most well-known designs is the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake, a modern classic within the catalogue. But while revered, some purists felt the dial was too complicated with a date window and power reserve indicator on the dial – leaving some imagining what a clean Snowflake dial would look like. Grand Seiko has now introduced something of an answer to that query, the new Grand…

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13.07.2021

WA-HOO! TAG Heuer teams up with Nintendo to present the TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition

At Time+Tide we pride ourselves on tackling how watches relate to pop culture. Sure, die-hard enthusiasts get turned on by listed specifications – calibers, diameters, lug widths and lug-to-lug lengths. But to the broader marketplace it takes something a bit different to catch the eye. The common thread between any type of watch buyer, however, is that novelty needs to stir up an emotional connection – something that ties the watch to something deeper in their lives. The Nintendo character Super Mario became a familiar presence in many of our lives as young gamers, forging a bond that carries right…

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UEFA expensive watches 11.07.2021

The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches?

In soccer, sorry football, players can make obscene sums of money and like any superstar athletes use their salaries to acquire some very expensive timepieces. With the UEFA 2020 tournament reaching its climax this weekend, we will finally have a winner after the tournament was delayed for a year due to COVID. But as watch enthusiasts, perhaps we should also determine a different kind of winner – the team that boasts the most expensive watches. Thanks to the experts over at Watchfinder we now know the answer. Based on the compiled data, the various national teams carry quite an extensive…

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Antiques Roadshow Cartier 11.07.2021

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow – this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was…

Antiques Roadshow is a source of a lot of fun for watch enthusiasts eagerly anticipating the appraisals of timepieces. Whether family heirlooms or watches bought while serving in the military, the people who bring their watches to be evaluated have their fingers crossed for high numbers – hoping they have hit the jackpot with their watch. We’ve seen people come on the show with Paul Newman Daytonas, vintage GMT Masters, and more – with some tearing up in joy and even fainting due to the overwhelmingly high prices they never expected. Not all encounters have such happy endings, however, and…

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the watches of The Avengers 10.07.2021

Fit for a superhero: Marvel watch spotting with the cast of The Avengers

In honour of the latest Marvel Universe installment Black Widow hitting cinemas and Disney+ Premier today, we decided to compile a list of some of our favorite watches worn by The Avengers cast. Like their roles in the films, the spectrum of watches are diverse, ranging from top-tier brands like Patek Philippe and Rolex to smaller independents like Urwerk. Scroll down to discover their various horological superpowers Robert Downey Jr. – Urwerk ref. UR-110RG Robert Downey Jr has a very eclectic and compelling watch collection with too many pieces to list in this story. But if there is any watch…

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Zero West H1 Hurricane 09.07.2021

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history

Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, each design the true embodiment of aviation, marine, and automotive aesthetics. Zero West creations stand out with their distinct case profiles and incorporation of historically important salvaged materials that help create a rich backstory for each piece. This is where their motto “recovered, recast, reinvented”…

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Mia Khalifa 09.07.2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia

Who is your pick: Roger, Mandy, Dudley or Julianne? I’m asking, of course, about who is your favourite celebrity with the surname “Moore” (Roger is the correct answer, of course). But this idle pub game received a horological twist in the Time+Tide office this week, when the team spotted two well-known and entirely unrelated personalities with the same name who also happen to share a penchant for Rolex. Naturally, the next step was to have a showdown of who wore it best. Former adult entertainment actress turned onlyfans.com megastar Mia Khalifa exhibits surprising restraint with two Rolex Datejust watches, a…

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Alec Baldwin 09.07.2021

Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki

I was fortunate enough to receive my Kurono Toki this week, and took to Instagram the day I received it to celebrate my new watch alert. Unknowingly, however, I was totally upstaged by none other than actor Alec Baldwin who had already shared his #NWA weeks earlier. This is truly what #watchfam loves to see. Too often we see Rolex and Patek Philippe when we put our sleuth detective hats on and go watch spotting, and of course they make fantastic watches, so it is nice to see a less mainstream independent brand get some serious love. As the resident…

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Seiko Spring Drive 08.07.2021

7 Seiko Spring Drive watches you should know about from past and present

Usually, when you think about Spring Drive movements the mind wanders to Grand Seiko. To be fair, Grand Seiko currently has the largest selection of Spring Drive powered watches in their catalogue, but they were not the first to use it. Twenty-two years ago, Spring Drive was commercially launched by Seiko and Credor in 1999 with both brands still producing Spring Drive watches today. The technology, controversial to mechanical purists who cannot get with the times, is lauded by many for its unparalleled accuracy and beautiful fluid sweeping motion that has no stutter or tick. Some cry “quartz foul”, but…

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Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze 07.07.2021

First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Tudor achieved a perfect storm in Australia recently – launching the first Tudor boutique in the country, and the 50th around the world, while at the same time unveiling another eye-catching new model – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. The third moment of note was the opportunity to meet in person the new General Manager of Rolex and Tudor in Australia, Benoit Falletti. The boutique, at 257 Collins Street is run in conjunction with The Hour Glass and is located in the heart of Melbourne, within walking distance of most major watch destinations in the city. Mr Falletti took the…

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Kurono Grand Akane 04.07.2021

One (very satisfied) owner’s review of the Kurono Grand Akane

What haven’t I already said about my  love for Kurono Tokyo watches. At this stage in my collecting journey, the watches I own already tick a lot of functional boxes, so the main driver of my current purchase decisions is dial aesthetic. If I were to buy yet another diver with a black dial, it creates an arbitrary moment of judgment each morning when I reach into my watch box to pick my wristwear for the day. A good watch collection should have sufficient variety to keep things spicy. It gets a bit stale when you choose to wear another…

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vacation watches 04.07.2021

If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget

Let’s clarify this at the outset. Best is obviously subjective, and if you read my story on how the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers Limited Edition was the perfect vacation watch for my recent trip to Aruba you may already be familiar with my personal criteria. To recap, I try to only take one watch with me when I travel, which means that it has to tick multiple boxes. The watch needs to offer versatile looks, robustness, water resistance as well as being sufficiently under-the-radar that I don’t have to worry about being targeted. Here, I’ve assembled…

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preowned Richard Mille 03.07.2021

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence

For brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Richard Mille it is crucial to understand the best means of acquiring these pieces preowned. Unless you’re a VIP customer, these highly sought-after brands don’t tend to be readily available to buy right away (if ever). Despite this, grey market dealers seem to have cases full of Hulk Submariners or various Richard Mille watches for those willing to cough up the eye-watering premiums for their instant purchase. But the journey from the manufacture to grey dealer can often be quite cloudy, and there is not always a clear sense of how…

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Adrien Brody 03.07.2021

Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser

One debate that continues to rage within the watch community is whether or not sports models are considered kosher with formalwear. On the one hand, the suave spy James Bond popularised the dynamic, wearing watches like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster with a tuxedo. But the question remains whether or not the combination truly works in reality. The way I see it, it’s not what you wear, its how you wear it and when done right a sports watch is totally fine to pair with a suit – especially if a dressier alternative is absent from your collection. For…

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Nelly Korda 03.07.2021

US golfer Nelly Korda rises to world #1 while wearing her Richard Mille RM 007

Richard Mille stands apart from other manufacturers by having ambassadors who actually wear their timepieces while engaging in their sport. The watches are designed to withstand heavy shock, whether on a motor-racing track, tennis court, or golf course. Considering how coveted Richard Mille timepieces are right now, it is nice to have tried and tested examples of the fact there are very few situations where the watch needs to be removed from the firing line of vigorous pursuits. This positioning of high-end luxury and athletic functionality was further reinforced when American golfer Nelly Korda recently won the KPMG Women’s PGA…

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Fratello x Czapek 02.07.2021

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition

Fratello knocked it out of the park in their last collaboration outing with Oris to create a bronze/burgundy Big Crown that nailed all the details with aplomb. Now our friends in the Netherlands have brought their keen eye for aesthetics to another end of the pricing spectrum, teaming up with a high-end independent watch manufacturer that anyone who calls themselves a watch enthusiast needs to know about. In the wake of Watches & Wonders, and the clear trend for green dials throughout this year’s novelties, the Fratello x Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition will be available…

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Lil Baby 02.07.2021

A Chrome Hearts Rolex? What the hell did Drake just gift Lil Baby?

Rolex is known for what I like to call robust elegance, designs built on the classic Oyster Perpetual format that manage to be both dressy and sporty at the same time. So when I saw reports that Drake had gifted Lil Baby a Chrome Hearts Rolex watch I was immediately confounded by its aesthetic. Admittedly, a look often derives its strength from the confidence of the wearer, but it would take the swagger of a superstar rapper, in my humble opinion, to pull off such a look. The gifted Rolex is effectively a factory original Rolex Day Date case and…

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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze 30.06.2021

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze is the best value bronze watch around

Bronze is all the rage right now. The metal ticks a lot of boxes, offering a precious metal tone without a precious metal price premium. The cases typically generate a patina and, as we all know, vintage aesthetics are very on trend. Plus, it’s an alternative to the ever ubiquitous stainless steel and allows collectors to own a watch that will develop a greater sense of character – a case that’s reflective of its owner and tells the story of how it’s been worn. Bronze offerings have a wide spectrum of pricing across the industry, but the Hamilton Khaki Field…

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Zenith Chronomaster Original 29.06.2021

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed

This year, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport, a killer 41mm chronograph that presented buyers with a more technically intriguing alternative to the popular Rolex Daytona. It has since proved a hit success at retail, with initial allocations immediately snagged by buyers worldwide. But Zenith purists have been itching for a bit more of a nostalgia-driven design, awaiting a permanent collection that combines a more classic aesthetic with the brand’s latest movement technology. Today we are introduced to a new trio of Zenith Chronomaster Original watches, each embodying the historic Zenith A386, while bringing the watch up to speed with a…

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how celebrities wear their watches 27.06.2021

Once you notice how celebrities wear their watches you can’t unsee it….

During the week an interesting article popped up from the Independent UK in my Apple News feed. It revolved around a press conference at Euro 2020 where superstar footballer Cristiano Ronaldo shunned one of the tournament sponsors Coca-Cola by purposefully moving two bottles of the soft drink out of view from the camera while asserting water to be the better drink of choice. It made the news because Ronaldo’s action triggered a 1.6% share price drop for Coke, a loss (later recovered) in share price of a few billion dollars. Here was clear evidence of the effect that celebrity endorsement…

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Grand Seiko SBGZ007 26.06.2021

The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan

Masterpiece is a strong label. It’s not something to be taken lightly. Many of us in the watch journalism game get rightly chastised for throwing around terms such as ‘iconic’ willy-nilly. But with Grand Seiko, and their Masterpiece Collection, I can type with full confidence that their creations live up to the classification. These watches are not your everyday Grand Seiko timepieces – and even those more standard production models set quite a high bar. The Nature of Time manufacturer has once again looked to their surroundings in Japan to create something truly special: the 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Grand…

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Revolution x Bamford London 25.06.2021

INTRODUCING: The Rake & Revolution x Bamford London Snoopy GMT “Joe Cool”

It is no secret that the watch world has a huge soft spot for Snoopy. Omega has leveraged the beloved Peanuts character in various Omega Speedmaster references, the latest of which commands quite a waiting list at retailers today. We have even seen our friend George Bamford experiment with the character in his GMT line, a watch that Time+Tide enjoys a personal connection with having released our own limited-edition GMT 1 & 2 late last year. Now The Rake & Revolution x Bamford London team have joined forces to deliver a new style of Snoopy GMT with a limited-edition “Joe…

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Habring2 x MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 1 24.06.2021

INTRODUCING: The Habring2 x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1

Collaboration watches are all the rage these days. Some scoff at the saturation, but many recognise the value a second eye brings to new designs. Each brand may have their own design DNA, but combining forces can add extra perspective and attention to detail. That is exactly what we have here today with the new Habring2 x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1. The limited-edition collaboration, a first for Monochrome, expands upon the Habring2 Chrono-Felix watch – a staple of the brand’s collection, but incorporates added touches from the Monochrome team.  The resulting salmon-dialled monopusher chronograph will surely have the watch…

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DOXA SUB 300 24.06.2021

Why the DOXA SUB 300 was the perfect one watch for me to take on vacation

Last week I spent some time abroad with my family in Aruba, and before the trip, like any watch collector, I had to make the choice of which watch, or watches, I would take with me. I knew swimming in the ocean, time on the tennis court, and happy hour drinks would be involved, so it was clear that whatever I took with me would need to be up to the task. Personally, I prefer to keep things simple whenever possible so after much deliberation I decided to take my DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers Limited Edition…

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Ric Flair 23.06.2021

Wrestling legend Ric Flair reflects on all the times he lost his Rolex watches (including in a bowl of spaghetti)

Anyone who knows professional wrestling knows of the “Nature Boy” Ric Flair. The WWE Hall of Famer is an absolute legend, known for his incredible matches and charisma. When wrestling in the WWE, excelling in the ring is only one facet a wrestler needs to have. Another aspect is the character, the ability to cut excellent promos and draw viewers into the storytelling of the program. Born with the name Richard Morgan Fliehr, his subtle name change was apt as flair, confidence and opulence defined his wrestling persona. He exuded the “baller” vibes throughout his career, creating such an impact…

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Jordan Belfort 23.06.2021

These are the watches the real Wolf of Wall Street, Jordan Belfort, actually wears

Ever since Leonardo DiCaprio portrayed him in Martin Scorsese’s The Wolf of Wall Street, Jordan Belfort has become a popular antihero on the back of his notoriety and hard-living lifestyle. To give credit where it’s due, he’s the man you go to when you need to learn how to “sell me this pen” during a job interview. Belfort’s  charisma and aggressive ambition led to his wealth and status in the 90’s and, years later, after serving 22 months (of a four-year sentence) in prison for money laundering and securities fraud, he has capitalised on the fame from his book and…

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Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm 15.06.2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm

Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun to shift things into fifth gear – creating new in-house calibers with longer power reserves and warranty coverage. Many were excited to see the new calibre 400 inside of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 43.5mm, but today the brand is scaling it back a…

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Nicholas Hacko 14.06.2021

Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection…

All too often we discuss watches as assets. Usually when we hear about people selling pieces from their collection it is part of an effort to fund the next watch – something I am well documented in doing. But when you reach a certain collection tier, or have the right references, moving such watches can fund significant purchases such as a house or a wedding. Australian watchmaker Nicholas Hacko is now selling 11 interesting watches from his private collection to subsidise a new five axis milling machine for his workshop. Since we are huge fans of his work and documented…

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Carpool Karaoke 13.06.2021

The watches of Carpool Karaoke from Paul McCartney to Bruno Mars

The concept of Carpool Karaoke is whimsical, relatable and lots of fun – namely singing along to the radio while going from A to B in your car.  But the recurring segment of the The Late, Late Show With James Corden takes things to the next level, pairing the British host with various musical superstars for a feel-good cruise in which they shoot the breeze and sing along to some of the artist’s greatest hits. Now, where there are stars of this calibre involved (think Madonna, Kanye West, Elton John and others) there are usually superlative watches to spot and…

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Grand Seiko SBGY007 10.06.2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY007 may just be the pared back snowflake you’ve been waiting for

Whenever I discuss Grand Seiko with other collectors many express that they like the heritage Spring Drive models, but if the brand made a few minor layout changes they would absolutely love them. Personally, I have no qualms with the usual date and power reserve complications that are present, but I understand the purists’ sensibilities and wish for an absolutely clean dial. More specifically, a lot of people have noted that they think the SBGA211 Snowflake has a fabulous dial but that it would be next level if Grand Seiko were to release a time-only configuration. Cue the new clean…

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Rado 10.06.2021

EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID

The best way to describe 2020 is that it was a black hole. Obviously there were far more serious casualties and situations, but the watch community sorely missed being able to get together and share our love for watches. Fortunately, the rising social media platform Clubhouse filled the void, but as we like to say in the hobby: there is nothing like getting together in the metal. But things are looking up here in the USA and, as a result, we have been able to finally engage with each other once again in person and not on Zoom or Skype,…

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worth 09.06.2021

Your watch is not always worth what you think it is…

For better or worse, a growing preoccupation in watch collecting is second-hand value. Thinking of watches as a potential asset is nothing new – speculation has always been part of building a watch collection. But with certain Rolex, Patek Phillipe, and Audemars Piguet sports models (among others) more out of reach than ever at retail, many people now look to flip these pieces knowing that they stand to make good money in the process. Profiting off of a watch, however, is not as straight-forward as you might think. Sure, selling a Patek Philippe Nautilus that’s acquired at retail will inevitably…

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The Rock 08.06.2021

Remembering that time The Rock punched his stuntman in the face, and gave him a Rolex to remember it by…

Sometimes in the background while I am writing, or when I am taking a quick break, I will have The Graham Norton Show clips playing in the background. Today while I was buried in my laptop, typing away, I heard The Rock during a clip say the word Rolex, and like a dog hearing the word ‘park’ or ‘snack’ I immediately looked up. After rewinding a tad for context, I listened to Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, WWE and Hollywood icon, tell a story from early in his film career that got the watch enthusiast and collector in me wondering… The…

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new Grand Seiko boutique 06.06.2021

Grand Seiko opens new boutique in SoHo, NYC in partnership with Watches of Switzerland

I know some of you may be thinking: “Doesn’t Grand Seiko already have a boutique in SoHo?” The storefront that opened last year was a pop-up exhibition, dubbed The Nature of Time in honour of the US exclusive four seasons collection. That exhibition has now closed, but Grand Seiko, in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, is now opening a new Grand Seiko boutique – cementing a more permanent home for the coveted Japanese brand. Located at 154 Spring Street, the new boutique will continue to be a space that educates both local and international customers in the neighborhood about the…

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HSNY x Phillips 05.06.2021

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind

Each year the Horological Society of New York and Phillips team up to raise money to advance the art and science of horology – offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and full-time watchmaking students in the United States. All proceeds, including the 26% buyers premium, go towards the cause, a much needed effort to help keep the art of watchmaking alive in our modern times. This year, HSNY x Phillips are presenting seven stellar lots in the “Timepieces for HSNY: 2021 Charity Auction”, donated from various parties within the industry that collectors will definitely fancy. From the first Greubel Forsey…

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Baume & Mercier Riviera Green 05.06.2021

The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party

Recently we saw the return of the Baume & Mercier Riviera in the form of three configurations: the 42mm Baumatic, 42mm Automatic, and 36mm quartz. Amongst the Time+Tide team we unanimously welcomed the Riviera and lauded the line for creating a more affordable opportunity to get a quality integrated, stainless-steel sports watch. But the Riviera party isn’t over yet. Just in time for the Northern Hemisphere summer, the Richemont brand is introducing the Baume & Mercier Riviera Green models – a 42mm automatic with a lacquered green dial and a 36mm quartz model with a lighter mintier green dial. For…

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Travis Scott 04.06.2021

Rapper Travis Scott’s watch collection is a masterclass in how to spend it when you got it

When you become a world famous recording artist, you stand to make a ton of money and inevitably acquire a drool-worthy collection of luxury goods. Of course, here at Time+Tide we are all about watches. Recently we have explored watches worn by Cardi B, Nick Jonas, Usher, and more, but for today’s session of celebrity watch-spotting we’re going to dig into some highlights within the watch collection of Travis Scott. Scott definitely has compiled some impressive timepieces from the usual suspects, as well as indulged in “bussing down” some of his pieces (against the wishes of purist enthusiasts and collectors),…

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Bernard Arnault 03.06.2021

LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?)

If you were to guess who the world’s richest men were, your mind would probably wander to tech CEOs and Russian oligarchs, all of which would be reasonable assumptions. This month, however, the tides of wealth have changed with LVMH founder, CEO, and executive chairman Bernard Arnault rising to No.1 on the rich list. Edging ahead of Jeff Bezos ($186 billion) and Elon Musk ($147.3 billion), Arnault’s wealth saw a meteoric rise over the past year, trebling from a net worth of $76 billion in March 2020 to $186.3 billion as of Monday, June 1st. Considering the pandemic that has…

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Actually New 02.06.2021

The People’s Choice Award for the most innovative watch of Watches & Wonders goes to…

Recap: after this year’s Watches & Wonders, Wei Koh of Revolution, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello, Frank Geelen of Monochrome, and our very own Andrew McUtchen of Time+Tide came together to talk, slash, argue over which were the best releases. They selected their faves in four different categories and then asked viewers and readers to make their choice in the comments. So far we have covered the People’s Choice for the Best Watch Under $10k, the Darkest Horse, and the Batshit Crazy categories. The next and final category that The Four Hertzmen (re the pun, thank you, thank you, one of mine) tackled…

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crazy 01.06.2021

Watches & Wonders: People’s Choice Awards – The Most Batsh*t Crazy Watch

Recap: in the wake of Watches & Wonders, watch channel founders Wei Koh of Revolution, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello, Frank Geelen of Monochrome, and our very own Andrew McUtchen of Time+Tide came together to talk watches. They selected their top watches in four different categories and then asked viewers to make their choice in the comments. So far we have covered the Best Watch Under $10k and the Darkest Horse. The next category The Four Hertzmen tackled was  “Batshit Crazy” – which we would soon learn meant something different to each member of the panel. Wei’s nomination was the Audemars…

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G-Shock x Budweiser 31.05.2021

The G-Shock you need to be of drinking age to buy…

G-Shock is an industry leader in super fun and super accessible collaboration pieces. They love marrying their  trustworthy designs with popular culture and, if you love beer and horology, their latest limited-edition watch is just for you. The only catch to the G-Shock x Budweiser Limited Edition is that you have to be of drinking age to buy it. The white case embodies the white within the logo, but the bright red rubber strap and dial framing accents drive home the Budweiser aesthetic. With summer on the horizon here in the USA, The G-Shock x Budweiser Limited Edition will be…

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darkest horse 30.05.2021

Watches & Wonders: People’s Choice Awards – The Darkest Horse

Just to recap: in the wake of Watches & Wonders, watch channel founders Wei Koh of Revolution, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello, Frank Geelen of Monochrome, and our very own Andrew McUtchen of Time+Tide came together to talk watches. They selected their top watches in four different categories and then asked viewers to choose their pick in the comments. Yesterday, we covered the Best Watch Under $10k here. The next category, The Four Hertzmen tackled was the “Darkest Horse” – effectively, the watch release that surprised the judges the most. Andrew nominated the TAG Heuer tribute to ref. 844 for it’s…

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grail watch 30.05.2021

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch…

Early on when I joined the Time+Tide team, I wrote a story that detailed how I got my Rolex Submariner. As both a watch collector and journalist, I felt the subject would resonate and, as that became my most read story ever, it would seem I was right. Just to recap: as a 27-year-old, I don’t have an unlimited budget for watches and when the opportunity presented itself to obtain a Submariner in great condition I knew I would have to part with a few watches to fund the transaction (in that instance a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 3548…

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Tinie Tempah 29.05.2021

Crime or sublime: Tinie Tempah picks up his customised Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

As we’ve touched upon when reporting on Cardi B and J Balvin, “buss-down” watches are a huge trend outside of the niche collecting community. Trained collectors stay away from the practice, recognising that a factory original watch is considered a more pure aesthetic and that customising a watch can (at times) be a bad choice in terms of protecting your investment in the timepiece. That being said, the individuals who engage in the practice generally do not have to worry about the secondhand value of their watch, presumably seeing it less as an object to preserve and more a canvas…

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best under 10K 29.05.2021

Watches & Wonders: The People’s Choice Awards – Best Watch Under 10K

In the wake of Watches & Wonders, watch channel founders Wei Koh of Revolution, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello, Frank Geelen of Monochrome, and our very own Andrew McUtchen of Time+Tide came together to talk watches, making their picks within four various categories. Within each session, the group I have dubbed “The Four Hertzmen” each nominated a watch they felt was the best novelty in a series of categories – the best under 10K, the dark horse of the fair, the most batshit crazy, or the best “actually new” (ie most innovative). The group then asked viewers to choose which pick…

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mido ocean star chronograph 28.05.2021

VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph provides twice the functionality at half the cost

Editor’s note: Mido is yet another brand that is not widely accessible to Aussies. The brand may be familiar to many, but finding it in store or from a reputable online seller isn’t always easy. We are really happy to let all Australian readers know that we are now offering over 70 models in our online shop. There’s a lot to explore, and we’ll be endeavouring to cover more of the coming weeks – starting with this stealthy, stainless steel DLC chronograph that wears with a great deal of heft and presence on the wrist. Visit the shop listing here. …

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Apple Watch 27.05.2021

How the Apple Watch was my gateway drug into watch collecting

Showing up at a watch collector’s meetup with an Apple Watch, is kind of the horological gathering equivalent of walking out of the bathroom with toilet paper stuck under your shoe. The truth is there is nothing wrong with owning an Apple Watch – they are very well-built devices and still the undisputed king of smartwatches.  I also stand by my view that the Apple Watch rubber strap, designed by Marc Newson, is one of the best rubber straps ever made. Plus Apple has done a great job of exploring various case materials such as aluminum, ceramic, titanium, stainless steel,…

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 27.05.2021

Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch

Wow. If you read my latest Tudor article detailing our favorite rumours ahead of the May 25th launch you’ll understand my shock yesterday morning when the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic was unveiled. Tudor, Rolex’s younger sibling within the Wilsdorf group, has clearly established it is the more adventurous brand of the duo (after all, their motto is “born to dare”). But the brand now seems more unpredictable than ever with their novelties and, to be fair, that makes them all the more interesting. Sure, this is yet another Black Bay. But we have to give the brand credit for breaking…

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Cardi B 27.05.2021

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age

Within the hip-hop community the prevalence of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille is abundant. In a scene where competitive flair and one-upmanship is a key component, many rappers’ initial step into watches is to buy “buss-down” watches – whether iced out by the factory or aftermarket. But as this market matures, what we are beginning to see is a greater awareness of value, both fiscal and horological. Artists like J Balvin, for example, have articulated greater respect for all factory original watches and expressed why sometimes less is more when it comes to timepieces. It would seem that…

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Tudor Marine Nationale 25.05.2021

Our 4 favourite Tudor Marine Nationale rumours ahead of the launch tomorrow

Tudor had an incredibly strong showing at Watches & Wonders this year, with the collecting community almost unanimously praising their releases. While the models introduced were not necessarily brand new, they definitely put the novel in novelty. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight divers explored new materials by using precious metals for the first time. Tudor shocked us all by not only dropping a rather expensive configuration in yellow gold, but a more price-approachable 925 silver model as well. The Black Bay Chronographs had both their cases and dials refined, conveying evidence the brand listens to their fans thinning the watch and…

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AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther 24.05.2021

From Neymar to Lebron – 4 powerhouse athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther

When the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon was introduced, many enthusiasts were openly critical of its design, wondering who on earth would buy a $160,000 USD watch with a superhero tie-in. But when I got the chance to go hands-on with it I actually thought it was extremely impressive – in the metal, the hand-engraved white-gold Black Panther figure is truly a work of art due to its phenomenal intricacy.  The 250 pieces immediately drew interest from buyers, proving the haters wrong as allocations in each region moved quickly. The watch, and its blend of high…

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Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T Special Revolution 22.05.2021

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution

Bold proclamation from the outset. If this watch had been launched during Watches & Wonders this year it would have been my pick of the fair. But let’s take a step back. In 2018, our friends at Revolution made a stellar limited-edition collaboration with Chopard L.U.C: the L.U.C 1860 x The Rake x Revolution. The time and date 18K white-gold watch was 36.5mm in diameter, 7.2mm thick, and had a gorgeous partly guilloched salmon-toned dial formed from solid gold. The limited run of 10 watches were stunning, and unsurprisingly all were sold. Today Chopard and Revolution introduce a sequel to…

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watch snobs 22.05.2021

Five (more) watches that get the nod from watch snobs under $1K

Watches can be very expensive items. We talk about the Tudor Black Bay 58 watches and others as “value-driven offerings” but that is really proportional to the larger industry. Personally, I stand by the term when I discuss brands like Tudor, Oris, and Baume & Mercier. But at the end of the day, these watches, while they truly deliver value, are still not inexpensive by any means. In a world where we all carry the most accurate pocket watches ever made (smartphones), there is no urgency to spend thousands of dollars on a timepiece. So to the broader marketplace, we…

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Kurono Toki 21.05.2021

Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI

If you have followed my coverage here on Time+Tide, you’ll be well aware I am a huge fan of Kurono watches. The brand has cultivated a cult following, with buyers such as myself racing to secure one of their creations each release. Unfortunately past runs have been scarce at times, with references introduced in limited numbers. But the Kurono mission has always been to create watches offering the distinct Hajime Asaoka design DNA at an affordable price to empower more watch buyers to own a luxury watch. This week Kurono lives up to that mission with their most democratic release…

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Richard Mille Robbery 19.05.2021

Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills

Back in March, we covered the story of a horrific watch theft in Beverly Hills California where a Richard Mille robbery occurred leaving an undisclosed women wounded by a firearm. Shay Belhassen was targeted for his RM-11-03 Flyback Chronograph in rose gold, a watch worth $500,000, while dining with a female companion at celebrity hotspot Il Pastaio. According to NBC Los Angeles, three men have been apprehended by the police and each have been charged with one count of conspiracy to interfere with commerce by robbery. NBC Los Angeles explains: “The suspects, identified by authorities as members of the Rollin’ 30s…

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Justin Hartley 18.05.2021

Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards?

Nope, it’s not another Speedmaster. At the MTV Movie & TV Awards this weekend, Justin Hartley best known for his work on the hit show This is Us (as well as playing Oliver Queen / The Green Arrow in Clark Kent / Superman origin series Smallville), presented the award for best action hero with co-star Mandy Moore. As they were announcing Anthony Mackie as the winner for the award – a sound choice considering his transition from the Falcon to the new Captain America – Justin can be spotted wearing an Omega Constellation 41mm ref. 131.63.41.21.03.001. Unanimously, the Time+Tide team…

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Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Skateboards 18.05.2021

VIDEO: The Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Limited Editions are inspired by skateboarding and tuna sushi

Seiko is known for reliable, robust and value-driven offerings – undercutting the prices of their competitors without compromising quality. They are also known for their creative collaborations, incorporating popular culture like Naruto anime into their designs. One of their latest partnerships is with the popular Japanese skate brand Evisen: the Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Limited Editions. Evisen Skateboards was founded in 2011, the name derived from the word ‘‘everything’’ when pronounced with Japanese intonation. The name was chosen to express their belief that ‘‘skateboarding is everything’’. The brand has released a variety of products that incorporate ancient Japanese traditions…

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Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium 16.05.2021

VIDEO: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph is a blue dial pilot’s watch with retro swagger

We’ve seen a bit of a heritage binge in the watch industry with vintage-inspired timepieces becoming a dominant trend throughout the marketplace. You might think the end of this trend is on the horizon, but when you appreciate how deep some manufacturers’ archives are, you start to realise that the fun has only just begun. Longines, for example, is a brand with an immense watchmaking history and a vast catalogue of retired designs ripe for revival. But what can be even more interesting than a 1:1 recreation of a vintage reference is a reinterpretation that leverages the framework of the…

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Nicki Minaj 16.05.2021

Nicki Minaj flexes an ultra rare Richard Mille worth $980K

The queen is back. Last time we shared news regarding Nicki Minaj, we expressed great envy of her infant son rocking a fully diamond paved Patek Philippe Nautilus worth $400,000. This week, however, the story is what has found its way onto her wrist. Taking to Tik Tok and social media to tease new projects on the way, Minaj can be seen in the video wearing a Richard Mille RM 07-02, a very rare and expensive watch considering that (supposedly) only eight pieces were made and that it retails for $980,000 USD. As of now, while writing this story, the…

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Levenaig 15.05.2021

A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality

Handmade. That term, alongside hand-finished, is often thrown around in watchmaking, but the term is often misleading. It is very rare that a watch is 100% handmade, and those that are even predominantly handmade usually command incredibly high price tags due to the time-intensive process of fabrication. But what if I told you that a handmade watch was available at a starting price a little above $2,500 USD – would you believe me? I wouldn’t blame you for being sceptical, but the fact of the matter is Swedish watchmaker Holme Finnilä, founder of Levenaig Watches, has truly done just that.…

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Ming x Massena Lab 14.05.2021

Making a buzz: Ming x Massena Lab collaborate to create honeycomb hotness

Whenever Ming introduces a new watch, the brand’s followers immediately mark their calendars and ensure they set aside time to race to the checkout for one of these highly coveted watches. The designs of this independent watch brand are absolutely distinctive, with every component meticulously crafted to reflect the design language of Ming Thein. Ming brings his photographer’s eye and creative-designer mind to create watches that cannot be compared aesthetically to anything else offered in the industry. Although his earlier designs have long waiting lists, Ming retires his references to make way for the next generation of creations – always…

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Phillips Geneva Watch 12.05.2021

Growing status of Grand Seiko reflected by results at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

Watch enthusiasts love Grand Seiko. But the question of whether top-tier bidders would paddle up for the brand at a Phillips auction remained uncertain – until this weekend at least. The reason? Unfortunately some narrow-minded collectors have been known to shun anything that is not Swiss made, with a clear inclination for Patek Phillipe and Rolex references. But the climate seems to be changing, because at the recent Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII, Grand Seiko achieved their best results yet at the auction house. Grand Seiko ref. SBGD001 The Grand Seiko SBGD2001 is a modern piece, but was released back…

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TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition 11.05.2021

HANDS-ON: The dial of the TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal

Green. We all know it’s become the colour of the year, dominating the novelties across brands at Watches & Wonders last month. If 2020 was a sea of blue dials, it is now looking like a field of green. But with TAG Heuer’s latest release they have strategically presented a new novelty that offers consumers a chance to buy an iconic watch design from their rich heritage with a modern toned dial that blends the big colours of 2020 and 2021. The new TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition, limited to 500 pieces, pairs the classic Carrera case with a…

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09.05.2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey

Editor’s Note: I put this list together last August in the hope that I could help people avoid the sort of costly mistakes I’ve made during my watch collecting journey.  Ten years ago there were fairly minimal digital resources for watch enthusiasts to dig into, but today the problem, if anything, is that there is almost too much information to sift through. So after reflecting on my own experiences over the last decade I compiled five mistakes I made with the view to empowering you to make smarter watch-buying choices.  As a companion guide to this list, I would also…

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Jason Statham 08.05.2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But in the new Guy Ritchie directed film, Wrath of Man, action superstar Jason Statham once again wears a watch from his own collection: an IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium®. Statham has worn a variety of watch brands throughout his films, but one…

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Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII 07.05.2021

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII takes place in Switzerland this weekend with 236 stellar lots for bidders and enthusiasts to get excited about. Of course, you have some head-turning pieces from the usual suspects – Patek Philippe, Rolex, Richard Mille, Cartier and more. But after combing through the auction catalogue, I wanted to highlight five particular lots that I think are well worth keeping an eye on. Auctions can be wildly unpredictable at times, which is why they are fun to watch, so my five selections below are not exactly “sleeper” lots or obvious bargains. These are watches that…

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 06.05.2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 revitalizes TAG’s first diver

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer line has continually been refined and modernised since its initial release back in 2004, with carbon, titianium and ceramics making their way into the collection over time. This Watches & Wonders, however, we have some beautiful irony here that will likely please buyers around the world. Among the new Aquaracer models released this year, TAG Heuer has looked back into their archives – blending the best of old and new with the Limited Edition TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to reference 844, reviving an important dive watch in the brand’s history. This year TAG Heuer…

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SBWA001 05.05.2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Chasing down the Seiko SBWA001 OG Spring Drive

Editor’s Note: This story is really special to me. Not only does it recount the fantastic moment in my life when I was able to source the Seiko SBWA001 for my very own collection, but it is also the first story of mine to be published on the Time+Tide site. When I wrote this reader submission, I would have never guessed that I would become the US Editor for a company I have so much respect and admiration for. When I later interviewed with Andrew to join the team, I immediately pointed to this story as one of the references…

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Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLNR 04.05.2021

Oyster vs Jubilee: Which bracelet does the Rolex GMT Master II look better on?

To an extent, this is a completely ridiculous debate. If you’re lucky enough to receive that wonderful call from your AD letting you know that your brand new Rolex GMT Master II Batman or Pepsi has arrived, chances are you don’t give two shits what bracelet option it comes on. But, if in this magical scenario you are given a choice then what would you choose: the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet? Matt and Zach pick sides and argue their case. Matthew Pickering: Team Oyster So, if you’ve read any of my articles before you might know that I picked up…

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Star Wars Watches 04.05.2021

May the fourth be with you: Two Star Wars watches at opposite ends of the pricing spectrum

The force is strong today. We can all get in touch with our inner Midi-chlorians as we say to each other “May the fourth be with you.” If you’ve seen my video review of the Grand Seiko SBGW264, than you probably know I am a bit of a Star Wars nerd. The Skywalker saga means so much to people all over the world, and the licensed merchandising opportunities are apparently endless. But we’re about the watches here at Time+Tide, so I wanted to showcase two Star Wars watches at opposite sides of the pricing spectrum that are both capable of…

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30.04.2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports AUTO MOAI Limited Editions

Seiko is on a roll with collaborations this year, recently teaming up with Naruto and Evisen Skateboards among others. Now Seiko has announced a new collaboration limited edition with the Japanese manufacturer teaming up with artist AUTO MOAI. According to Seiko, “AUTO MOAI is an artist working in Japan with the theme ‘anonymity’. AUTO MOAI depicts the relationships between people who are tacitly connected to each other on the streets, which are hard to visualise, with faceless people.” Ironically, however, AUTO MOAI has worked with Seiko to introduce a new face and design to the Seiko 5 Sports lineup –…

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Oris Cotton Candy Sixty-Five Divers 29.04.2021

Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare?

Oris has really dug into bronze of late with the material repeatedly featuring in the brand’s catalogue in recent years. But one thing Oris has done with bronze that you never really see in the industry is produce bronze-cased watches with matching bronze metal bracelets. We first saw this when they released the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph Holstein Limited Edition in 2020 with a run of 250 pieces. At Watches & Wonders, Oris returned a full bronze aesthetic to the catalogue, but this time as standard production and paired with eye-grabbing “cotton candy” dials. When I first got a sneak…

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SPB213J1 29.04.2021

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value

Watch collecting can be intimidating for beginners with many people scared off by the exorbitant price tags.  But you can get high quality watches at lower price points and, when it comes to presenting value-driven novelties, Seiko reigns supreme. The brand is particularly strong when it comes to diving watches, having perfected their offering since rolling out their first diver in 1965. The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 Limited Edition Diver leverages the same case design as their original diver, but celebrates the 140th anniversary of the brand with modern colour tones that make the watch a very versatile wear. The case…

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Russell Crowe 28.04.2021

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch

Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As per the last update, Russell Crowe himself confirmed on Twitter that the watch was gifted by him to a crew member who had worked on Cinderella Man. Since then, after contacting Time+Tide to seek more information, Russell and Fog City have spoken, and both parties have reached…

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Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 28.04.2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver

Whenever I am asked about the brands to get into when you’re just starting a collection, Seiko and their value-driven offerings are always at the top of the list. The vertically integrated manufacturer has a deep understanding of watchmaking, building all of the components in house to create robust, reliable and eye-pleasing designs that leverage over a century of accrued wisdom. For the brand’s 140th Anniversary, Seiko has introduced the Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 Diver – a limited-edition watch of 6000 pieces in its modern blue and white configuration The stainless-steel case is 40.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 47.6mm lug-to-lug.…

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Oscars 27.04.2021

And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to…

The 93rd Academy Awards, a.k.a The Oscars, resiliently aired this week, managing to create some semblance of what we love about the occasion during the trying times of the pandemic. With social distancing and other safety procedures in mind, the ceremony was held in Union Station in Los Angeles – where only the nominees were invited to be part of the physical audience. While this limited the number of individuals who could strut down the red carpet, a fair amount of timepieces still made cameos during the ceremony. The most conspicuous trend seemed to be skeleton dials that included Daniel…

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Audemars Piguet 26.04.2021

Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection

With my one year anniversary with the Time+Tide team on the horizon, the only drawback has been that the pandemic inhibited all the in-person interaction I really craved. What I love about the watch community is being able to meet up, whether with members of the industry or #watchfam community, and nerd out for hours about watches. Fortunately for me, I was invited by Audemars Piguet to stop by the New York City office and spend some time with many of the new 2021 Audemars Piguet novelties and a few other recent releases as well. I have to say I…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) 25.04.2021

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

With nearly 40 brands presenting novelties this Watches & Wonders, it can be quite the challenge to present a novelty that stands out amongst the crowd. After speaking with various members of the press, and #watchfam on instagram and clubhouse, it has become abundantly clear that the horological champion of the fair was Jaeger-LeCoultre. The history of Jaeger-LeCoultre is rooted in the excellence of movement manufacture, with each of the so called “holy trinity” brands (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) leveraging their ebauches – some even to this day. The original Nautilus and original Royal Oak Jumbo (and…

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Buyers Checklist 25.04.2021

The Buyers Checklist: 5 questions to ask yourself before buying a watch

When it comes to watches and collecting, you never stop learning. You cannot know everything and believing that you do can be a dangerous mindset. I am always eager to learn more about what I love, and while I think I’ve picked up a fair bit in my time as an enthusiast, collector, and now US Editor for Time+Tide, I always remain open to new perspectives and information. Ultimately that’s the only way to stay on top of this growing industry and community. But through the trial and error of building a collection over the years, I’ve gained some valuable…

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ceramic watches 24.04.2021

Watches By Material: 5 ceramic watches to put on your radar

Ceramic watches can add a lot of value and fun to your collection. They have a more modern (and sometimes more colourful) aesthetic that looks playful, but is also incredibly robust. Ceramic is highly scratch-resistant and will maintain a more pristine look over time. It requires a lot force to crack the material, and short of Super Smash Bros Falcon Punching a doorknob the watch should be safe on your wrist. With summer approaching, at least in the Northern Hemisphere, we thought now would be a good time to once again explore how ceramic can potentially brighten up your collection.…

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Usher 24.04.2021

Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Too often in the realm of celebrity watch spotting we are subject to the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. There is nothing wrong with that, as we all admire and desire watches from those brands. But it is far more interesting to see a more niche watch on the wrist of someone in the limelight and recently I was made aware of R&B superstar Usher’s love for Purnell watches. What is really interesting is that his collection of Purnell watches is completely organic. Usher is not…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 21.04.2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph

Audemars Piguet has modernised its novelties across collections, introducing next generation movements and new technologies into their creations. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is yet another example, with a more ergonomic and refined case as well as an all-new interchangeable strap system. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is comprised of six watches: five flyback chronographs powered by the in-house caliber 4401 that debuted in the Code 11:59 collection and a limited-edition flyback tourbillon of 100 pieces. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronographs Each of the new Audemars Piguet Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph…

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Rolex Explorer II 226570 17.04.2021

The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570

It’s fair to say the Rolex releases last week were simply whelming – neither under or over. The highlight of the 2021 collection was the return of the 36mm Explorer and the first ever Explorer in a two-tone configuration. Many expected big changes for the Explorer II, after all, it is the 50th anniversary of the reference. But what we received was a watch predominantly the same, with a more ergonomic and reflective case profile and upgraded movement. Anyone hoping for the introduction of a ceramic bezel or some green anniversary colouring would have been disappointed. In fact, the external…

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Kurono Toki 17.04.2021

Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review

When the first Kurono Chronograph was released, I admired its design but felt the white/black colour scheme was an unnecessary addition to my collection. I won’t pretend any watch is a necessity, but in order to splurge on these items that I love, I have to be able to qualify their purchase – even with arbitrary logic. When the Kurono Chronograph 2 was announced, I wasn’t initially sold on adding it to my personal collection either.  In fact, I passed on the opportunity to “pre-order” the watch as a member of the contributor tier. But as the public window to…

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Entourage 17.04.2021

This Rolex scene with Ari from Entourage shows how much the watch world has changed

Before anyone gets heated, no I am not about to try and “cancel” Entourage. Whether or not the show would be able to survive the present cultural landscape is an entirely different discussion, and one we are not having here. This is about watches. Recently on Instagram stories, I noticed friend of Time+Tide, Brynn Wallner, share a scene from Entourage on her page @dimepiece. It was a nice blast from the past as I haven’t done a recent binge through all the seasons in a few years. But it also hammered home just how much the watch scene has changed.…

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Ulysse Nardin 15.04.2021

Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021

Celebrating their 175th anniversary this year, Ulysse Nardin is a tried and true manufacture with rich heritage and history. Established in 1846, Ulysse Nardin built its name by fabricating some of the most reliable and high-quality marine chronometers. While most brands of their age remain stuck in the past, refusing to depart from their classic aesthetics, Ulysse Nardin admirably looks to the future – leveraging their vast watchmaking know-how to innovate and produce forward-thinking novelties. As an example, nowadays many consumers are eager to purchase a watch with a modern silicon escapement due to its anti-magnetic properties. Ulysse Nardin was…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther 14.04.2021

ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version?

As a community, we watch lovers can forget there is a larger world beyond our obsession, and that the overwhelming majority of watch buyers are not plugged in, in any way, to our commentary. Not every luxury watch buyer, even of popular models we all desire, has dived down the #watchfam rabbit hole. Consequently, they have tastes and perspectives that remain uncontaminated by community influence. That’s worth remembering with the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon limited edition – AP’s first collaboration with Marvel. With its Black Panther figure on the dial, the watch was met…

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14.04.2021

Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders

With 40 brands presenting at Watches & Wonders, there are a lot of novelties to like – and many you may have missed. It was no secret most consumers were heavily awaiting releases from Rolex, Tudor, and Patek Philippe, but some of the most interesting watches came from brands you may not be as familiar with. With so much coverage to sift through, here are five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders. Hermes H08 Hermes is predominantly known for having some of the highest quality leather goods around the world. They have also really stepped their…

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Tudor Black Bay 58 18K 14.04.2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have liked to have seen the polished surfaces and bevels remain on the case, in favor of its new all satin-brushed surface. And while I think it’s neat the watch has a sapphire caseback, part of me would have preferred the extra bit of gold. The…

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Watches & Wonders 13.04.2021

Zach’s top 5 Watches & Wonders novelties with an unlimited budget

This is the time of year I wish that I owned the patent for the coffee cup sleeve or happened to be the son of an oil baron. There have been so many fantastic novelties at this Watches & Wonders but, sadly, many are light years out of the reach of my 27-year-old budget. Still it’s fun to fantasise and when I was tasked with picking my five picks without a budget cap I was excited to put this together. Like draft day in your fantasy football league, I went through all of the press releases and products of this…

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Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire 12.04.2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire

Hublot truly is a pioneer in watch materials. Their motto “The Art of Fusion” is not just a tagline, it is a prime directive that drives all of their manufacturing. By thinking ahead, and pushing the boundaries of what a manufacturer can do, they are able to execute things many (if not all) brands are not capable of producing. There are brands who work with sapphire, sure, but with the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire – a limited edition of 30 pieces – the brand has made the first Big Bang that  utilises the robust material almost…

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Tudor Black Bay 58 925 12.04.2021

Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then?

When you think of Tudor watches, you typically think of stainless-steel, value-driven offerings. But Tudor surprised us all, making the leap to yellow gold as well as silver for the Tudor Black Bay 58. While the Tudor Black 58 18K presents a formidable step up in price, the new Tudor Black Bay 58 925 in silver remains approachably priced for a Black Bay 58 diver. Personally, I applaud Tudor’s innovation and the fact they took the familiar BB58 design and shaped it into new metals – for both the collection and the brand. But I am left wondering how well…

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second 11.04.2021

INTRODUCING: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin Platine

As of late, many watch enthusiasts have broached the subject of what the “Holy Trinity” really means and whether it still holds merit and relevance. For me, while there are many independent newcomers on the scene that fabricate and finish amazing timepieces, none have the rich and uninterrupted history and heritage that Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin have. So Zach, why even bring this matter up? Because today we are going to discuss a new entry into the Traditionnelle collection: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin in platinum. The Traditionnelle line embodies what has made Vaceheron Constantin…

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IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 09.04.2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula

When new novelties arrive, more often than not consumers are presented with familiar frameworks paired with new dial tones. IWC design language is iconic within the industry, so for me to say this new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 looks entirely different would be a bit of a stretch. But this is actually great news. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 with a blue dial offers everything that has already caused us to fall in love with the brand, but takes the collection into the next generation of watchmaking – including a smaller case diameter, choice of quick change straps,…

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Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art 08.04.2021

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers

With the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection, even those uninitiated with watchmaking can clearly see the artistry and hand craftsmanship of the watches. Inspired by art, history, and culture, the collection leverages the master craftsmen and intricate techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. Each dial is quite a masterpiece, serving as a canvas of artwork that is so high in quality it could be displayed in a museum. The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection takes inspiration from the Miller Atlas, a Portuguese atlas from 1519. This collection of three watches serves as a third entry in…

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Tudor Black Bay 58 18K 08.04.2021

ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying?

Yesterday it is fair to say that Tudor hit a home run with their releases, notably introducing an attractive duo of precious metal Black Bay 58 watches as well as a revamped pair of panda-dialled Black Bay chronographs. Tudor was originally created to provide more affordable timepieces that leveraged Rolex designs and fabrication with mass-produced movements. The brand now stands on its own two feet, still within the Wilsdorf group but producing their novelties independent of the crown and with their own manufacture calibers. Tudor, however, has just entered uncharted territory for the brand – introducing a solid gold Tudor…

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Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 08.04.2021

The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee

There was a major Rolex announcement hidden in plain sight today. It was not mentioned during Rolex’s Watches & Wonders presentation, but our team of sleuth detectives realised that on Rolex.com the model configurator tool will allow buyers to put the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi & Batman on an Oyster bracelet once again. On the flip side, you are also now able to pair the Rolex Sky-Dweller with a Jubilee – making it the only collection available on Oyster, Jubilee, and Oysterflex bracelets. What I think of the new and returning options… Let’s kick things off with the Sky-Dweller.…

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2021 Rolex Collection 07.04.2021

The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising

Rolex is known for incremental change so “surprising” is not really the brand’s forte. Having said that, the new range definitely contains some curveballs this year, both in terms of the Crown’s choices and a few unexpected pieces in particular. That’s why I decided to rank all of the new 2021 Rolex Collection novelties from least to most surprising. Let’s dive in… 7 & 6. Lady Datejust and Day Date 36 Of course Rolex was going to find a way to completely bling out a few references and maximize margins. The new Lady Datejust and Day Date 36 models are nice…

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IWC Big Pilot 43 07.04.2021

VIDEO: How does the new IWC Big Pilot 43 differ from the original Big Pilot 46?

Back when I was first dipping my toes into the waters of watch enthusiasm, the IWC Big Pilot was one of the first luxury watches that captured my admiration. I had no means to afford it at the time, and I did not have the level of understanding I do today, but its utility and design spoke to me and I thought it was among the coolest wrist companions available on the market. I still have a fondness for the watch today, but I must confess it is watch I would not add to my collection. Why? Because it is…

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2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas 07.04.2021

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection

Many watch enthusiasts have become caught up with the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The aforementioned brands and references have reigned supreme in the integrated stainless-steel category for decades, but the challenge of sourcing one at retail has led many to finally give due credit to the equally fascinating Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Of the three “holy trinity” integrated steel sports it is the most distinct in aesthetic, and even offers more than what its competitors present. The Overseas offering stands out with its distinct case and bracelet profile, as well as offering buyers bundled straps which utilise…

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Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper 07.04.2021

The Breitling we have all been waiting for – the Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper

I don’t think I have ever been more excited (in recent times) by a Breitling novelty. The manufacturer has a rich heritage, undoubtedly, but in past years I have not found myself tempted to add one of their watches to my personal collection. I admire and respect their iconic designs, like the Navitimer, but never found myself having a deep hunger or impulse to pull the trigger on one. Today, however, Breitling has really caught my eye with the new Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper and its gorgeous salmon toned dial – a dial color I am very eager…

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Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Skateboards 06.04.2021

INTRODUCING: A trio of new Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Skateboards watches

Seiko is known for reliable, robust and value-driven offerings – undercutting the prices of their competitors without compromising quality. They are also known for their creative collaborations, incorporating popular culture like Naruto anime into their designs. Today, their latest partnership is with the popular Japanese skate brand Evisen in the new Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Skateboards watches. Evisen Skateboards was founded in 2011, the name derived from the word ‘‘everything’’ pronounced with Japanese intonation. The name was chosen to express their belief that ‘‘skateboarding is everything’’. The brand has released a variety of products that incorporate ancient Japanese traditions…

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Hamilton 04.04.2021

This is how Hamilton became Hollywood’s go-to watch brand

Watch brands love to tout records they hold – highest complication count, thinnest movements, greatest depth rating and so on. But Hamilton Watch Company holds a record of their own with their watches gracing the silver screen in over 450 major feature films. As a result, over the last 90 years, Hamilton has become known as the movie brand, thanks to their close association with Hollywood productions. Hamilton watches first appeared in the 1932 Marlene Dietrich movie Shanghai Express and since then have made cameos in many other productions – notably including many of Christopher Nolan’s latest feature films (i.e…

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Audemars Piguet Code 04.04.2021

INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection

While all the rage in the ’80s, many consumers have deviated away from two-tone designs in today’s marketplace. Historically two tone is comprised of stainless steel and a precious metal in a contrasting tone (such as yellow or pink gold). But forward-thinking manufacturers have realised there is possibly a better combination of tones that will cater to present day consumer tastes. With the new 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 collection, Audemars Piguet has paired precious metals with black ceramic – a fitting combination when you consider the fact that the modern design of the Code 11:59 embodies the future of…

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Yellow sunshine for the wrist 04.04.2021

DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland

DOXA has enjoyed a notable resurgence over the last few years, the famed diver’s watch brand coming in strong in 2021 with a standard production line of carbon SUB 300 divers to follow up the 2020 GPHG-nominated limited edition. While DOXA watches have a cult following within the watch community, their modern timepieces are typically acquired through their easy-to-use e-commerce platform on their website. But for some, a necessary step before purchase is to get a feel for the watch in the metal. Now, thanks to a retail partnership with Watches of Switzerland, DOXA watches have expanded their retail presence…

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Apple Watch Explorer Edition 02.04.2021

Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock

Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry. But not satisfied with its extraordinary dominance, the brand is now reportedly looking to expand its watch portfolio. The company has explored many materials, including aluminum, titanium, stainless steel, ceramics, and even 18K gold. Throughout these designs their case profile has remained largely unchanged, the greatest evolution being larger screen/case sizes. Given their extraordinary success in the category, there has been little incentive to rework the externals – instead Apple has focused on the internals of the watch and furthering the performance of its software and health monitoring. But…

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Snowflake versus White Birch 30.03.2021

Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender

Grand Seiko has been around for over 60 years, but within the last decade the brand is slowly (yet exponentially) growing its presence throughout the watch community and the world. The brand is known by enthusiasts for their high-value craftsmanship, offering more black polished components than most Swiss brands – and at a fraction of the price. Their Zaratsu finishing method results in some of the most aesthetically pleasing cases and their nature-inspired dials immediately catch the eye. This year, the new 9SA5 powered SLGH005 White Birch has taken the watch world by storm, its textured white dial and dual…

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J Balvin 28.03.2021

Reggaeton superstar J Balvin recalls how declining a free Richard Mille almost put his life in danger

J Balvin is one the hottest Latin artists in the world with the Colombian musician commonly referred to as the ‘Prince of Reggaeton’. Selling over 35 million records worldwide, his status within the industry and high-income from his work allow him to engage with some of the most in-demand watches and brands in the world. His personal watch collection has received ample coverage on the internet, but his appearance on the latest episode of Hot Ones opened a brief window into his collector perspective – tackling topics such as the watch that was hardest for him to find, AP vs.…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 27.03.2021

INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet releases a trio of diamond set Royal Oak Jumbos including two icy blue dials

I’ve said it many times, but I will say it again: blue was absolutely the colour of 2020. With such saturation of the dial colour, manufacturers really had to explore varying shades of blue to have their products stand out in the marketplace. Fast-forward to 2021 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Diamond Set collection introduces a duo of light blue dialled references alongside a familiar black toned dial configuration – all of which are cased in precious metal and set with diamonds.   As Jumbo models, each of the precious metal cases are 39mm in diameter and a…

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watch that got away 27.03.2021

The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse

Nearly every watch lover will harbour certain regrets. It is inevitable there’s a watch you wished you’d pulled the trigger on – wincing in hindsight that it is not in your collection today. In fact, this is such a relatable aspect of watch collecting that for the fourth weekly meeting of The Breakfast Club on Clubhouse we’ve decided to ask participants to share their own tales of the watch that got away. When it comes to such sob stories, our very own Time+Tide team is no exception. So in anticipation of this week’s meeting, I asked my colleagues to share…

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Grand Seiko SBGD207 25.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case

While Grand Seiko watches invariably have more of a claim to being works of art than practically all other brands at their price point (and beyond), the Grand Seiko SBGD207 is on a whole other level. Masterpiece is not a term the brand throws around lightly. The Masterpiece collection within Grand Seiko’s catalogue represents their peak craftsmanship: they are high-end watches with high-end price tags and high-end watchmaking. To better understand the amount of time it takes to produce these watches, last year’s Grand Seiko SBGD205, a limited run of ten pieces, has yet to be completed by the manufacturer.…

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Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold 25.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist

Bronze is nothing particularly new to dive watches. For a time now we have seen manufacturers leverage bronze for its history in diving and the precious metal like tone it carries on the wrist. But not all bronze is created equal. While collectors typically prefer natural patina, in favour of forced or faux-patina, Instagram is ripe with shots before and after bronze cases were left to “force age” – going so far as to leave a watch in egg wash to create a “found at the bottom of the sea” aesthetic. In my opinion, however, the grey-green tone that results…

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shower 24.03.2021

Should you shower with your Apple Watch? Or any water resistant watch for that matter?

Recently I stumbled upon an article from ScreenRant where they delve into whether or not it is safe to shower with your Apple Watch. Showering with your watch is a hot and steamy discussion within the watch community. On Clubhouse, for example, I have encountered collectors who are vehement advocates for both sides. Some like myself would never dare to unless absolutely necessary, while others can’t imagine taking a shower without their holy trinity sports pieces. To clear the air a bit on the issue, let’s dig into water-resistant watches and the potential dangers of showering with them. 30 metres…

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collective 23.03.2021

INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations

Watch enthusiasm is initially generated by the product – there’s no doubt that the art of watchmaking and the many resulting creations are the main draw that hooks people in. But what really sustains the hobby, and helps it grow, is the sense of community in watches. Within #watchfam there are many collecting groups dedicated to bringing like-minded watch lovers together, typically to share a few drinks and talk watches. Two watch lovers, however, wanted to take the idea of a watch collectors’ club a step further. Collective™ Horology was started by founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin to create…

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Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs 21.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401

We all know the “Holy Trinity” manufacturers can be called out at times for being on the slower side when it comes to product evolution. To be honest, that’s for a good reason, too. The pursuit towards perfection has to be careful and calculated, and each of the brands have to ensure their watches live up to the name and quality associated with their Maison. This year, however, Audemars Piguet is proving its manufacturing metal – introducing a slew of upgrades to their novelties. The 2021 Royal Oak Offshore Divers received a new movement and interchangeable strap system, and now…

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@ebaywatches 20.03.2021

eBay joins the Instagram world with new @eBaywatches account

As we’ve previously reported, eBay are raising their game in the watch marketplace. One huge stride in the right direction came with their new eBay Authenticity Guarantee – a service where watches costing $2000 and above are eligible to be substantiated by an independent verification service before being shipped to the end consumer (currently only for listings in the United States). It’s clear this is no passing fad for the platform either, eBay are in it to win it. To show their dedication to watches, and the watch community at large, eBay has created their first ever product-dedicated Instagram account:…

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Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 19.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system

Audemars Piguet is coming in hot for 2021, and AP is not pulling any punches. It is clear the plan is to usher in a new era of timepieces, and in particular the Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore collection is home to two brand new innovations: an all new in-house caliber and the first-ever interchangeable strap system. The Royal Oak Offshore is a fan favourite among the collecting community, and it is one of the more commonly spotted wristwatches on famed athletes around the world. It is fair to assume these new watches will have fans of the brand…

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2021 Royal Oak Collection 19.03.2021

INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet goes all-in on green for the 2021 Royal Oak collection

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models are among the most coveted watches in the entire world. Owners of the various references already make other collectors green with envy, but the new 2021 Royal Oak Collection will make onlookers envy the green. Somewhere Conor McGregor’s #NewWatchAlert spidey sense just started tingling, because this new collection of five watches (four of which are limited editions) has definitively locked in green as the color of 2021. While all the watches have green dials, Audemars Piguet has done a great job of offering a wide spectrum of case metals – ranging from lightweight titanium all…

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Fifty Fathoms No Rad 19.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad Limited Edition

Limited editions of Blancpain divers are hot commodities in today’s marketplace, so when they are announced it’s best to act fast if you’re looking to secure one for your collection. They also have the added benefit of speaking to a wider spectrum of wrists, taking on a smaller 40.3mm case diameter reserved for limited editions. The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad Limited Edition is a tribute to the brand’s famed Fifty Fathoms that proudly boasted the fact that it did not use any radioactive compounds to increase the visibility of the diver. Context The Original Fifty Fathoms No…

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Servicing vintage Rolex 17.03.2021

Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive

You’ll have heard this about vintage watches before: tread carefully when you have these pieces serviced and who you allow to work on them. With Rolex, in particular, you’ll be aware of the dangers of having the factory service their vintage watches and the horror stories of these coveted watches losing the elements that make them so valuable in the process. Rolex’s own service centres are not like Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. They do not have a heritage department to painstakingly restore and re-fabricate vintage parts in order to keep everything period correct. Instead, their objective is to make…

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Longines Legend Divers 17.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Longines Legend Divers freshen up heritage looks with modern notes

The heritage trend has definitely saturated the marketplace with virtually every manufacturer looking to their past to create interest in their products. Some do this better than others. With the current ubiquity of the faux-patinated aesthetic, designs have to be pushed even further to stand out. Re-interpretations of heritage designs typically signal that the design is largely unchanged besides minor elements being modernised to ensure they are faithful tributes. Longines, however, has taken a more interesting route of late – leveraging heritage frameworks but issuing them with new skins that cater to modern trends. We saw the Longines BigEye Avigation…

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Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 16.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition

Prospex is the largest growing Seiko line-up with buyers flocking to add pieces from the collection to their wrist. Highly robust and value-driven, these watches can be more affordable than their competitors with little to no sacrifice in the quality of fabrication. While many will refer to this watch as a new entry into the “Willard” line of Seiko divers – named after the watch worn by Captain Willard (Martin Sheen) in Apocalypse Now – that’s actually not the back story here. This watch is really a tribute to the Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura, who wore a similar piece in…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase 14.03.2021

Hiding in plain sight – 6 sleeper hit watches you might have missed

You don’t always have to look to the usual suspects or pay a hefty price to get a quality watch. There is a wide spectrum of manufacturers in this industry and, with so many releases each year, it can be a bit of a challenge to follow every reference introduced. While the below list of watches are fabricated by well known brands, we wanted to shine a spotlight on some references that may not have received the recognition they deserve. A sleeper hit is effectively something that is not massively hyped, but has a level of quality that demands further…

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Doxa Sub 300 Carbon 13.03.2021

VIDEO: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers that should have won the GPHG

I have made it no secret that I felt the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers watch was snubbed in the Divers prize at the 2020 GPHG awards. I have nothing against Breitling, let me be 100% clear on that fact, but I personally felt that if the vote were left to the watch community then DOXA would have taken home the award. Doxa is known for its dive watches with a winning formula left largely unchanged over the years. The fact that their creations are effectively modern fabrications of designs of yesteryear is a testament to this fact,…

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Sinn U1 DS 13.03.2021

Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did…

When we talk about what attracts people to watches, you may typically expect the response to be the movement. But when it comes to the larger marketplace, arguably the most important element, aside from case diameter, is the dial. The dial is what catches your eye first. As much as some people jest they would want to wear a watch flipped over on their wrist to be able to see the movement at all times, intriguing dials are the first element you notice – the headline to pull you in and make you want to know the full story. Sport…

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clubhouse 13.03.2021

Are you coming to our next Clubhouse chat? Great! Here’s a refresher on how Clubhouse works

We recently unveiled our Time+Tide Clubhouse Club, as well as our first weekly room “The Breakfast Club”. Each week, Fridays at 5pm EST / Saturday morning at 9AM AEDT, I will be hosting and moderating the Time+Tide “Breakfast Club” on Clubhouse where we will tackle a watch (not breakfast) related topic. Typically the prompt will be a question posed to our team and readers, where ideally we all get to share our thoughts on the matter. With the second Time+Tide “Breakfast Club” weekly meeting fast approaching, I wanted to unveil this week’s topic, and for those less initiated into the…

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clubhouse 12.03.2021

Want to talk watches with us? Join the Time+Tide Clubhouse Club, kicking off this weekend!

Clubhouse has become a wonderful platform for watch lovers of all genders, ages, and levels of knowledge to come together and talk all things timepieces. Though distanced by geography and circumstance, Clubhouse is allowing us to connect in a manner never truly available before. If you’re not familiar with the app, I previously put together an overview on what it is and what Clubhouse means for the watch the community – so definitely give that a read for the full scoop. For the Time+Tide team, our valued readers are priority number one and we could not pass on the opportunity…

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Chanel J12 3125 11.03.2021

This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918)

The Chanel J12 has recently been overhauled by the brand to leverage a more unisex 38mm case size. In addition, its movement is now produced by Kenissi, the joint venture between Tudor, Breitling and Chanel – the latter owning a 20% stake in the movement manufacture. The movement inside the standard J12 today is therefore the same caliber architecture you would find in a Black Bay Fifty-Eight. But the J12 watch has actually utilized an even more prestigious movement in a previous model from 2008. While not explicitly advertised, this watch used a movement supplied by none other than “holy…

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rare Richard Mille 10.03.2021

Rare $500K Richard Mille RM 11-03 stolen at gunpoint in Beverly Hills, owner offering $50K reward for its return

Unfortunately, yet another theft has shaken the watch world. As luxury items, it’s no secret these coveted and pricey items can become targets for thieves with criminals standing to make a lot of money if they quickly offload the stolen items. The New York Post, among a host of other news outlets, reported that jewellery store owner Shay Belhassen was robbed at gunpoint last week. The target: his rare Richard Mille RM 11-03 Flyback Chronograph in rose gold worth $500,000. According to reports, Belhassen was dining with an undisclosed woman at the restaurant Il Pastaio, a celebrity hotspot in Beverly…

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Oris Pro Pilot TLP 10.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial

The pilot’s watch category is one of the most popular segments in the watch industry. With the number of pilot’s watches on the market, each new novelty has to be that much more strategic to figure out how to capture the hearts of buyers. To stand out, you have to be true to the design language an aviation watch requires while also weaving in fresh elements to distinguish your novelty. This is where the Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition succeeds, introducing a watch with clear aviation purpose while not rehashing familiar pilot’s designs. This limited-edition watch of 750 pieces…

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under 40mm 06.03.2021

From IWC to TAG Heuer – 10 of the best watches under 40mm from our buying guide (Part II)

In the name of my fellow tiny wristers, or just those who prefer watches closer to classic proportions, I’ve assembled a list of 10 of the best watches under 40mm listed in our NOW buying guide. For a long time the trend has been to scale watches up in size, with releases typically hovering above or equal to 40mm in diameter. But the people have spoken, and we are starting to see the tides change. You saw my first five picks in part one and now it is time to round the list out with part two. Fears Brunswick Salmon…

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G-Shock 06.03.2021

How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables

When it comes to watches and collectibility, the mind immediately gravitates to high-end manufacturers such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. After all, these are the watches that we see the rich and famous sporting on their wrists, and each brand limits their level of supply to the point where the number of watches they produce each year never comes close to satiating demand. Even if these watches were more readily available, not everyone is prepared to drop thousands of dollars on a watch. To become a collector of rare watches that will gain in value, the barrier to…

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Dave 06.03.2021

UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection

Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak on his wrist. One year on, he was pictured all dressed up with nowhere to go in lockdown with a Patek Philippe 5168G in “khaki green” strapped to his wrist. Given his wardrobe in the shot, I do not think there could…

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best watches under 40mm 05.03.2021

From Patek Philippe to Tudor – 10 of the best watches under 40mm (Part 1)

Confession time: I do not have the largest wrists in the world. Last time I checked, my wrist circumference came in not far above six inches. That being said, I wear watches ranging from 32mm to 43mm in diameter because, as I have explained before, it really is more about lug-to-lug when it comes to a perfect fit. Nevertheless, more often than not, the lug-to-lug length I am looking for comes with references that measure in at 40mm or below. To better assist watch buyers like me who prefer more classically proportioned watches, I have put together a list of…

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Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT 03.03.2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance

The force is strong with Seiko and it’s clear they are not holding back this year with some fantastic new releases. The Sharp Edged Presage collection is known for its robust elegance, featuring eye-catching dials in highly scratch and water-resistant cases. Previously we all had a plethora of dials to admire in the time and date format. For those who want a little more complication, Seiko has now introduced the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT collection. The stainless-steel cases of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT collection are all 42.2mm in diameter, 13.7mm thick and a manageable 49.2mm lug-to-lug across…

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Nick Jonas 02.03.2021

Nick Jonas shows he’s a serious watch guy with this Omega Speedmaster in Canopus Gold on Saturday Night Live

As a watch enthusiast and journalist, I get excited when I see celebrities sporting coveted timepieces on their wrists. More often than not we see the greatest hits from the usual suspects, but on the most recent episode of Saturday Night Live, Nick Jonas made #watchfam really proud. Nick has a clear appreciation for watchmaking. His Instagram feed is full of a variety of watches from a wide spectrum of manufacturers. Sure he has the more clear-cut celebrity choices in his collection, which we will explore below, but the watch Nick opted to wear during his monologue is a true…

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William Wood Triumph 01.03.2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire

William Wood is known for their well built and accessibly priced timepieces, all of which are inspired by fire rescue and the brave people who put their lives on the line every day. We’ve covered the full backstory of the brand and its name before, but just to recap: William Wood was the name of brand founder Jonny Garrett’s late grandfather. For more than 25 years, William Wood served in the British Fire Service, winning commendations for his acts of bravery.  Sadly, he passed away in 2009, but his legacy lives on through Jonny and the William Wood watch manufacture…

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Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR 28.02.2021

VIDEO: Is the Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR “Rootbeer” the best two-tone watch on the market today?

Two-tone watches were all the rage in the 90s, but today many collectors have shunned the configuration out of fear they will look like Jordan Belfort. But not all two-tone is created equal, and Rolex has came up with a more youthful interpretation. The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer is a modern take on two-tone, blending Everose gold and 904L stainless steel to create something you would have never seen in two-tone’s hey-day. The black and brown ceramic bezel creates a really interesting tone, the brown ceramic akin to a cup of coffee with a touch of milk. The…

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26.02.2021

1 Watch 5 Ways: The Rolex Submariner on rubber, leather and NATO straps

Rolex bracelets are some of the best in the business and the Oyster bracelet with Glidelock on the ref. 114060 Rolex Submariner (featured below in other guises) is a prime example of their incredible construction and fit. But sometimes it is nice to switch things up, especially if you do not have a box full of watches to swap between. Swapping straps is a great way to rejuvenate a watch in your collection and make it feel new with a fresh aesthetic. It can give your daily wearer a different aesthetic and also help you preserve the condition of the…

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” 25.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”

Heritage is the key buzzword when it comes to watches right now. With many consumers enamored with timepieces of the past, it’s a no-brainer for manufacturers to revive coveted designs and give buyers a chance to acquire new watches inspired by the references of yesteryear. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a classic example of this trend, with the brand faithfully reviving a cult watch from 1994. The IWC Ceramic Fliegerchronograph (ref. 3705)  is now considered one of the most sought-after models from the brand’s recent history. After briefly fading into obscurity, it re-gained widespread attention…

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Grand Seiko GMT Seasons 25.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global

One of the biggest complaints about the Grand Seiko ‘Four Seasons’ collection had nothing to do with the watches themselves, but the fact that they were only available to the US market. Their nature-inspired dials were lauded for their colour and texture, making the international market envious of what was available in the States. Today a new set of sekki (seasonal phase) inspired dials have been released in the new Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – a line-up of four GMT watches, two of which are powered by the automatic hi-beat caliber 9S86, with the other duo powered by the…

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SLGH007 25.02.2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum

The Grand Seiko brand and the Seiko Corporation have a lot to celebrate this year. Across Seiko brands, the collections have seen growth all around the globe with more and more people gaining respect and admiration for the Japanese manufacturer, even in the most inclement of market conditions. Last evening, at the global Seiko summit, we learned that the standout performers in 2020 were Grand Seiko and Prospex. A major recent milestone is the 140th anniversary of Seiko, a celebration of the brand’s origins and all of the knowledge and artistry that has been developed and nurtured since. Seiko was…

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Grand Seiko SBGC240 25.02.2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel

The 140th Anniversary celebrations for Seiko are continuing, hot on the heels of the news that – and this is remarkable – both brands actually experienced growth in key markets in 2020. This was revealed last night in a global summit, along with several new models, including this one. A key reason for the upward trajectory is the fact their products are genuinely unique and distinct in nature. Another aspect that sets Grand Seiko apart from other manufacturers is their proprietary Spring Drive technology that leverages a predominantly mechanical movement with a regulated quartz escapement. The new stainless steel and…

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph 24.02.2021

Omega introduces new quick change straps with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph

Omega is famous for being the official timekeeper of the Olympics and many other sporting events around the world. Their latest release, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph, is a fitting tribute to the 36th America’s Cup. To celebrate this intense sailing event, Omega decided to do more than dress up an existing reference in new colours. Instead, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph introduces a slew of new upgrades we can only hope make their way onto more models in the catalogue – including new rubber chronograph pushers, chronograph-lock system, and, notably, a quick-release strap…

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TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE 24.02.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Jeff Stein from world Heuer authority onthedash.com goes in-depth on the new TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition

Editor’s note: Yesterday, Jeff Stein, the ever-polite world authority on Heuer watches reached out to us to ask if he could use some of our photos in a story he just published, about the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition. In the email chain that followed, we discussed the edition and we both predicted – accurately – that it would be gone in minutes. We believe it was seven to be exact. His story on the release, which we highly recommend, goes into more detail than is usual, on why Hodinkee get so many of their limited editions…

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Clubhouse 23.02.2021

What is Clubhouse and why it is a gamechanging platform for the watch community?

Sad but true: we’ve all had to adapt to the pandemic lifestyle and one casualty for the watch community is the absence of watch meet-ups. For enthusiasts, nothing is better than sinking a few pints and talking watches. During these get togethers, watch lovers can candidly speak about our passion and geek out over the timepieces we love. Today such engagement is sorely missed, but recently a new app for iOS has stepped in to fill the void: Clubhouse. The platform was not built specifically for the watch community, but its design really caters to casual, enthusiastic and meaningful discussion…

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Madison Beer 23.02.2021

Madison Beer sure wears the hell out of a solid yellow gold Rolex Daytona on the VIEWS podcast with David Dobrik

Watching David Dobrik content is a guilty pleasure of mine. It is mindless fun when you’re just looking to unwind, kickback, and have a laugh or two. Known as the “Vlog Squad”, Dobrik is surrounded by a recurring group of fellow vloggers and in some instances major celebrities looking to engage with his massive fanbase. One friend of David Dobrik is the singer Madison Beer. To promote her new album, she joined Dobrik on his now filmed VIEWS podcast. During the chat and interview, Beer can be spotted wearing a yellow gold Rolex Daytona ref. 116528. While Beer has been…

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Longines Aviation BigEye 22.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph blends heritage flair with a modern titanium case

The watch world is definitely enjoying a heritage binge with vintage-inspired timepieces the dominant trend throughout the industry. You might think the end of this trend is on the horizon, but when you appreciate how deep some manufacturers’ archives are, you start to realise that the fun has only just begun. Longines, for example, is a brand with an immense watchmaking history and a vast catalogue of retired designs ripe for revival. But what can be even more interesting than a 1:1 recreation of a vintage reference is a reinterpretation that leverages the framework of the past but ushers it…

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G-Shock Transparent Series 22.02.2021

INTRODUCING: Get the all-clear with the G-Shock Transparent Series (including the “Casioak”)

When you’re looking for an exciting piece to liven up your collection, you’re most likely to find that point of difference in a watch’s dial tones and textures. But the G-Shock Transparent Series takes a very different approach by allowing the case and strap to do all the talking.  Much like a clear, sapphire-cased watch, G-Shock’s latest collection leverages transparent cases and straps in their designs.   All of the watches in the series utilise semi-transparent resin cases and straps. The only visible elements that peep through are the case back, the strap buckle and the encasing that holds the…

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watch OCD 21.02.2021

“How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches”

Before I throw myself under the loupe, I would like to make a few things clear. Nobody who knows me would particularly refer to me as Mr. Clean. I am not the guy who straightens the pencil on his desk, or cringes when he spots a pair of mismatched socks peaking out beneath the hem of a pair of jeans. In fact, as I type this, in front of me is last night’s pint glass stained with the dried foam from a watery tasting Bud Light, while behind me on my carpet is yesterday’s pair of socks waiting to be…

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Australian Open 21.02.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex spotting at the Australian Open from Federer to Tsonga

Tonight is the men’s final of the Australian Open. While this tournament is primarily a great opportunity for fans worldwide to enjoy some great tennis, it is also a good time for watch lovers to spot some fabulous timepieces on the wrists of their favorite players. Rolex is a longstanding sponsor for various tennis tournaments, with many players on the circuit official and unofficial ambassadors of their robust creations. You may not see them on the court during play, but they always make an appearance upon victory – especially when raising the trophy in celebration. Rolex will not be the…

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Rolex Submariner 114060 21.02.2021

IN-DEPTH: Gone but not forgotten – the discontinued Rolex Submariner ref. 114060

Before we dig into the Rolex Submariner 114060, I want to set the record straight on Submariner nomenclature. There is no such thing as the “Submariner No-Date” in the Rolex catalogue. The Rolex Submariner does not have a date window or cyclops magnification, that complication is reserved for the Submariner Date. This rampant mis-naming of the Submariner stems from the fact the date model is the more recognised and sought after of the two – at least by the masses. Some collectors, myself included, prefer the original Submariner design for its clean, symmetrical and dateless dial. It displays all the…

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20.02.2021

What is a “strap monster”and why do you need one in your watch collection?

The watch community has its own cultural rhetoric teeming with insider slang that never registers to the mainstream ear. It all stems from a greater engagement with watches and, as you go down the rabbit hole and discover all of the intricacies of watches, you begin to need specific terms for purposes of clarification. One common phrase collectors often utilise is “strap monster”. It is thrown around a lot, so we wanted to take a moment to break down what it means for those who aren’t familiar with it, why it is beneficial to own a strap monster in your…

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20.02.2021

Would you pay $50k for this customised Ed Sheeran Tudor Black Bay?

The value of double stamped watches is no secret. Most famously Tiffany & Co. stamped dials have notably elevated the prices of Rolex and Patek Philippe references. But these watches, while not released in heavy quantities, are rather widespread on the secondhand market. If you really want to discover co-stamped dials in even more limited numbers, Tudor is the brand to dig into. The watches are rather hush hush as they are not meant to be sold. In fact, they are commissioned by entities in limited quantities to be gifted to those within their inner circles – with usually no…

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Longines Silver Arrow 18.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track

We can all get caught up in the latest news about Nautilus or the next unobtainable Rolex. But for the majority of watch buyers, the most important timepieces are those that are accessibly priced and offer a ton of value.  One brand that constantly delivers in this regard is Longines, a manufacture of longstanding heritage that provides quality Swiss watches with competitive specifications and pricing. The most recent entry into their catalogue is the new Longines Silver Arrow, a watch that at $3050 AUD offers a level of quality usually found at a much higher price point. The watch is…

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Kurono Chronograph 2 17.02.2021

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast

I have been a huge fan of Kurono watches since their introduction. Master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka should be applauded for the brand’s mission of trying to make high-quality timepieces more accessible to consumers. What really makes Kurono so intriguing, beyond these more approachable price points, is the design language utilised across the various lines. This Japanese take on Art-Deco design has really caught the eye of collectors around the world. No detail is left unconsidered and the Kurono designs really revive an era of more classical proportions and aesthetics. The Kurono Chronograph 1 received a great deal of praise, and…

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Oris Whale Shark 16.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality

Oris has always harboured a deep respect for the environment and supported efforts to protect the ocean and sea life therein. This isn’t a tokenistic move either. The brand really puts their money where their mouth is, aiming to become CO2 neutral by 2021 and incorporating recycled materials in both their watches and their packaging. In addition, Oris protects our wallets, too, consistently releasing offerings with high value at lower costs than many of their competitors, making their novelties attractive to both new and veteran watch collectors alike. Today, the brand has released their Oris Whale Shark Limited Edition, a…

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Hublot 15.02.2021

Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours

Hublot has always been at the forefront of exploring new materials and colours. Known for their motto “the art of fusion”, Hublot constantly pushes the boundaries in regard to what we all expect a watch to look like – as well as what it is made from. There are few brands, if any, where we could put together such a colourful list of watches. So given that Hublot has basically fabricated the full spectrum of colours, we decided to taste the rainbow in full. For further information on any of the below watches, click on the bolded reference name in…

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Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR 14.02.2021

HANDS-ON: The Rolex GMT Master II Rootbeer is proof that two-tone can be a winning investment

Two-tone watches don’t get nearly as much love as they once did. The 90s were rampant with bi-metal watches with many opting for the touch of precious metal instead of full stainless-steel references. But boy have times changed with the integrated stainless-steel craze showing no sign of slowing down. As a result, two-tone models do not always excel on the pre-owned market – often hovering near or below their retail pricing. But there are certain exceptions to the rule. The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer is proof that two-tone can be a winning formula in today’s marketplace and, like…

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SLGH005 13.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGH005 brings the 9SA5 to standard production in steel

Whenever I hear a new Grand Seiko is being released, I get all giddy inside. Like a child hoping to find a Nintendo Switch under the tree on Christmas morning, Grand Seiko novelties are highly anticipated by fans worldwide – and fortunately they never disappoint. We recently covered the 60th anniversary limited edition Grand Seiko SLGH003, celebrating the introduction of the new hi-tech 9SA5 caliber into a stainless-steel watch. It made this latest innovation more accessible to the masses than the previous precious metal SLGH002. The new Grand Seiko SLGH005 not only introduces yet another reference in stainless steel, but…

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Rolex Explorer 2021 13.02.2021

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021?

There’s no Baselworld this year, but in April we will have the “phygital” Watches & Wonders to look forward to. Thirty-four brands will be in attendance, among them Rolex and Patek Philippe – two horological heavyweights whose potential novelties will, as always, be eagerly awaited. Back in September we saw Rolex refresh the Submariner collection, upping the case diameter to 41mm, but trimming the lugs down to a more vintage-inspired tapered profile. Many believe, including us, that the Explorer collection is next in line to see an update – and predictions are circulating of what form that may take. This…

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Grand Seiko SBGW264 11.02.2021

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces the brand’s bid to become the king of dials

Grand Seiko never disappoints with their novelties. Some creations may not be for your taste or budget, but it is very rare (if ever) you fail to appreciate the supreme value in their timepieces. Gorgeous Zaratsu finishes, colourful and nature-inspired dials, tasty textures throughout – the brand’s grammar of design is a winning formula for sure. While they’ve set the bar high over the years, each new release seems determined to maintain their devout following. Most of their watches are made from either stainless-steel or titanium, but that doesn’t mean they are a stranger to precious metals. The Grand Seiko…

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11.02.2021

Predictions: How feasible is the supposed Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak”

Editor’s Note: There is no official confirmation regarding the launch of a Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus. Anything written below is pure speculation weighing up the potential veracity of the current rumours and is not representative of any correspondence with Patek Philippe. Watch forums are always rampant with watch mock-ups and predictions. The guessing game, in a way, is half the fun. For the watch community, the speculation before trade fairs such as Watches & Wonders is akin to superhero fans trying to figure out what is to come in the next phase of films from the Marvel Universe. We don’t…

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Regé-Jean Page 09.02.2021

Bridgerton’s Regé-Jean Page exudes Big Duke Energy with a Cartier Santos Dumont on The Graham Norton Show

Bridgerton has taken Netflix by storm to become a massive streaming success. The costume drama blends Victorian and modern elements, combining balls and parties with classical covers of Billie Ailish and Arianna Grande. On the back of some particularly racy sex scenes, actor Regé-Jean Page –  who plays the reluctant Duke of Hastings – has become an overnight heart-throb.  But last week Page got the nod of approval from watch fans, too. On the latest episode of The Graham Norton Show, Page made an appearance on the panel of celebrities. Not to sound treasonous as an American, but of all…

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Patek Philippe Twenty-4 09.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The new Patek Philippe Twenty-4 ladies collection will create serious watch envy in men

Times are changing and for the better. For the ladies’ watch category, the marketplace has traditionally taken the course of shrink it, pink it and bling it. We too often used to see watches utilising quartz movements, not that there’s necessarily anything wrong with quartz, but the assumption seemed to be that women were not interested in a mechanical option as well. The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 collection has greatly evolved since its introduction in 1999, introducing an automatic segment in 2018 to compliment the quartz configurations. Today, the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 welcomes three new references to the lineup, two of…

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Great dive watches over 300m 09.02.2021

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight?

Value is a key buzzword in the watch world. Considering this is a luxury industry, any proposition that poses an opportunity to get more than you paid for inspires awe and intrigue from buyers worldwide – and rightfully so. At the same time, Rolex can be a challenging brand for new consumers. The ability to buy one at retail rarely occurs for those without extensive purchase history, while the secondhand premiums are often fairly daunting. I won’t deny Rolex watches are incredible – I absolutely love my Submariner. But Wilsdorf sibling brand Tudor now offers pretty much everything Rolex brings…

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08.02.2021

Was Conor McGregor’s latest ‘retro’ Rolex Day-Date purchase inspired by Tupac?

Well, Conor McGregor is already at it again. In the wake of two bold Jacob & Co. acquisitions, the UFC superstar has now added some more bling to his collection – only this time he went with a classic 36mm yellow gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 128348RBR with a green ombré dial with diamond markers and diamonds set into the bezel and centre links of the presidential bracelet. McGregor is no stranger to Rolex watches. He has added many pieces from the crown to his collection already, but two things about this latest acquisition deviate from his normal taste and preferences.…

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valentine's day watches 08.02.2021

Six Valentine’s Day watches you can share with your partner

Valentine’s Day is nigh and it’s time to start hinting you want cupid’s clock as well as his arrow. But as some of us know all too well, some partners are easier to convince then others – especially if they’re not every bit the watch enthusiast that you are. Watches are also regrettably expensive which, particularly in these chaotic times, can be quite a deterrent. But what if you could share your next watch purchase? Would that make a new addition more feasible? To get you started, here’s a list of six Valentine’s Day watches, all 36mm in diameter, you…

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Code41 NB24 Chronograph 06.02.2021

Light years ahead: The CODE41 NB24 Chronograph delivers futuristic looks with a featherlight build

When you observe the collective offerings across conglomerate brands, many of the watches you find are familiar takes on the same old formats and profiles. This has opened some room for micro-brands to rise and introduce watches with more striking aesthetics – bringing refreshing and distinct timepieces to market that often deliver incredible value for the consumer. One such up-and-coming brand, CODE41, are quickly making a name for themselves by making complex case designs with heavily re-worked and regulated movements at highly accessible price points. Now they’ve released a new chronograph in two head-turning variations: the CODE41 NB24 Chronograph Creator…

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 06.02.2021

VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off

I know its summer in Australia, but here in the United States it’s the bleak mid winter – so we really needed this heat from Zenith. Since we published our hands-on review of the watch, our readers have made it pretty clear what the nickname of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Brown Gradient Dial should be: the “cappuccino”. Zenith claims they were the first company to produce smoked gradient dials. All I know is it’s a smokin’ hot dial and watch. The heritage trend has been all the rage these last few years with multiple re-issues that dig into the…

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G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red 05.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The new G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red is a colourful daily wearer for a hard-knock life

We can all debate what are the best daily wearers, but if the term is based on robustness and reliability there is arguably nothing better than a G-Shock. The Full Metal series elevates the offering from resin cases and straps, to a full stainless-steel build – even titanium in the more premium editions. So far we have seen stainless-steel versions in steel, gold-plated, black, black grid, and aged black tones, but this year we have the most bold and colourful version yet: the G-Shock Full Metal “Rich Red”. While the ion plating of the watch is billed as “Rich Red”,…

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Beijing 2022 04.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Beijing 2022” ushers in the Winter Olympics

Now that 2021 has arrived, a return to normality seems to be lurking on the horizon (fingers crossed). We still have some work to do around the world, but with a vaccine in circulation it is fortunately no longer a matter of “if” but “when”. In anticipation of these brighter days, Omega is getting a jump-start on the fun to come when the Beijing Winter Olympics arrives next year. To celebrate the 30th year of being official timekeeper of the games, Omega is introducing their Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Beijing 2022” Special Edition. The watch is every bit the modern…

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Rolex Explorer ref. 214270 03.02.2021

VIDEO: Is the Rolex Explorer ref. 214270 the best one watch collection in existence?

The Rolex Explorer ref. 214270 is considered the Rolex model for true watch enthusiasts, or enthusiasts of the brand. By no means basic in the millennial sense of the word, the Explorer is less attention grabbing with its boiled-down to the essentials design. While less iconic to mainstream consumers than say the Submariner or Daytona, the Explorer watch presents owners with an all-in-one package extremely versatile in wear. It can be worn with formal attire, without raising a debate if sport watches should be paired with a suit, or be right at home on the wrist while summiting a mountain.…

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03.02.2021

INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick

The Piaget Polo was first introduced in 1979, inspired by the jet-setting lifestyle and where luxury met sport. Its release coincided with Piaget becoming a sponsor for Polo tournaments around the world. Yves Piaget personally loved to attend these events, their glamour, sport, and spontaneity inspiring the Polo watch design. The Piaget Polo watch has changed a great deal since its release over 4 decades ago, the 2016 Piaget Polo S bringing the watch into a more price approachable metal and modern format. It was a tad controversial at the time, with some drawing comparisons to the integrated designs of…

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Hublot strap customiser tool 02.02.2021

Now you can play watch designer with the Hublot Strap Customiser Tool

Watch manufacturers usually get it right when it comes to their factory configurations. But people’s tastes vary a lot.  Sometimes you might feel a design could use a touch more flair or may even need to be scaled back a bit. Buyers normally have to rely on their imaginations to play dress up with their strap monsters, often buying straps online and hoping when they arrive they live up to whatever they’d pictured in their mind. But Hublot is making this experience easier and a whole lot more fun. Through their Hublot Strap Customiser Tool, visitors to the Hublot site…

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IWC Pilot's Watch Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince” 01.02.2021

INTRODUCING: Enjoy a vicarious travel experience through the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince”

IWC make some incredible watches and are particularly known for their pilot creations with their crisp and highly legible dials. The IWC Timezoner is one such watch with a large case and dial, 24-hour time display and corresponding world timer rotating bezel. The watch, in its standard production configuration, is actually a chronograph – with a 24-hour hand instead of a window. The previous Timezoner without a chronograph complication was a 2019 limited edition, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Edition “The Longest Flight”, which had a black dial with fauxtina coloured SuperLuminova® and a 24-hour time display window uniquely tied…

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Deshaun Watson 31.01.2021

NFL quarterback Deshaun Watson gifts 15 of his teammates $13.6K Hublot Big Bang watches

The Super Bowl is fast approaching, and as a New Yorker it pains me that Tom Brady and the Tampa Bay Buccaners will be battling it out with Kansas City for the championship. While the Houston Texans did not make it all the way this year, I can imagine at least 15 people in the organisation who didn’t have a horrible end to the year. After signing a a four-year contract extension worth $156,000,000 USD, quarterback Deshaun Watson bought 15 of his teammates special Christmas gifts for a total of $204,000 USD. The beneficiaries – that included Watson’s offensive linemen,…

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Seiko SSH083 and SPB205 31.01.2021

INTRODUCING: Seiko get their 140th birthday party started with the Seiko SSH083 & SPB205

Back in November, we were treated to two new releases from Grand Seiko to honour the founding of the Seiko brand. As we covered, 2021 marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of founder Kintaro Hattori and the 140th anniversary of the birth of the Seiko Corporation. Hattori, at the age of 21, would create what would later become Seikosha and eventually the Seiko Corporation we have all become so fond of. Now that 2021 has arrived, Seiko is joining in on the celebration to help kick off the new year – and there is a lot to like about…

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Serpenti Spiga 29.01.2021

INTRODUCING: Bulgari slithers into 2021 with a trio of Serpenti Spiga watches

More often then not, when we take a deep dive into a watch release, we explore creations billed for men. The idea of gendered watches is becoming more and more contested and, quite frankly, when it comes to spending your hard-earned money you should be able to wear whatever you want. The Bulgari Serpenti, however, is completely designed with a lady’s wrist in mind – although gentlemen feel free to explore if you think you have the fashion chops to pull it off. As the Roman Jeweller of Time, Bulgari has the ability to create watches that showcase how the…

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5711 discontinued 29.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued, market price climbs 50% within a week!

Earlier this week, it was reported that Patek Philippe had discontinued the hottest luxury watch on the market after 15 years: the Nautilus 5711/A. The news was rather shocking when you consider the fact the watch commanded a speculated eight year waitlist – and that is assuming you had earned the privilege of being added to the queue. Alongside the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus helped usher in the integrated steel sports watch craze and helped create a marketplace where at times steel was valued more than gold. With demand far greater than supply, secondhand prices for…

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William Wood 27.01.2021

Hose before bros: William Wood make a customised watch for the Melbourne Metropolitan Fire Brigade!

Last July, the Melbourne Metropolitian Fire Brigade merged with the Victorian Country Fire Authority and formed the Fire Rescue Victoria. This, however, meant the retirement of the MFB organisation name after a long history for the brigade dating back to 1891. To celebrate that illustrious history, members of the Melbourne Metropolitan Fire Brigade decided that a commemorative watch would make the perfect memento and reached out to us here at Time+Tide to help make it happen. When we were initially approached to facilitate a custom watch, it was immediately clear that William Wood watches would be the perfect fit. The…

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Grand Seiko SBGW264 27.01.2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 has one of the best green dials in the industry

Grand Seiko gets a lot of attention from collectors that’s well-deserved for the incredible artistry it delivers. If the Swiss were even capable of paralleling this Japanese craft and philosophy, the resulting products would likely be far more expensive. Grand Seiko continually brings high craftsmanship and value to the table, the brand name truly built on the merits of their products. While we typically see more steel and titanium watches from the brand, they are no stranger to precious metals. Zaratsu finishes on steel and titanium are absolutely exquisite in every way, but there is something about Zaratsu on precious…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium 26.01.2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Dial bounces into town on a rubber strap

Since its inception in 2014, the Octo Finissimo was an absolute game changer for how the watch enthusiast community perceived the Bulgari brand. Sure the brand always enjoyed a successful niche, but the lineup of Octo Finissimo watches with their unbelievably slimline cases grabbed the attention of men and women who love watches all around the world. These were a testament to the horological prowess the brand commands and made brands previously known as the kings of ultra-thin watchmaking hastily scramble back to the drawing board. Now the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Opaline Dial refreshes the thinnest…

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2021 Bulgari Octo Finnisimo 25.01.2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered Dial is the Silver Surfer we never knew we wanted…

The Octo Finissimo has become a real fan-favorite in the watch community and redefined expectations for the ultra-thin watch category. Many have expressed concern about the saturation of integrated stainless-steel sports watches, but the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, originally introduced in 2014 gave buyers the best of both worlds: an integrated bracelet sports watch, but with an incredibly distinct and original design. You see a whole new side to watch design all thanks to the 110 facets of the case that work to create an architecture only the “Roman Jeweler of Time” can provide. The second generation removed the uniform tone…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT 25.01.2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial

Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more elegant and sporty – two traits that are often mutually exclusive. In short, it was a real triumph with many lauding the fact that the specifications were much more in line with its original billing as a sports watch. Today, the Chronograph GMT finally joins…

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TAG Heuer releases 25.01.2021

Competition is tough in this battle to pick the top five TAG Heuer watches of 2020

Within the world of sports watch manufacturers, TAG Heuer has carved its place in history as one of the leading brands. Best known for its racing chronographs, today the brand combines the best of both worlds, creating timepieces inspired by its rich heritage while incorporating the latest movement and manufacturing technologies. TAG Heuer has always had a strong presence in the minds of buyers (particularly in Australia), but 2020 presented some of their strongest releases of the recent era. Here are my top five TAG Heuer releases of 2020. TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition Last…

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surprising Grand Seiko releases 24.01.2021

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming

Grand Seiko and their meticulous artistry never cease to amaze me. Each watch has a rich back story with every dial tone, texture, case form and finish carefully selected in order to best convey the brand’s grammar of design. Their relationship with Japanese culture and the nature that surrounds their workshops really shines through in each reference – nothing they produce is ever random. Due to this thoughtful curation of design, the catalogue of Grand Seiko watches announced each year are anything but stale and continue to elevate and evolve the brand’s standing worldwide. Here are three of the most…

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great watches that use DLC 23.01.2021

Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings

DLC, or diamond-like carbon, is a great tool for watch manufacturers to leverage. It’s capable of not only changing the aesthetics, but also the durability of a timepiece. To get an idea of how tough DLC is, the material typically measures at 5000-9000HV on the Vickers hardness test. Essentially, this means that DLC is as hard, and possibly even harder, than a diamond. That these coatings can be applied to cases and bracelets therefore results in some serious added benefits for the consumer. To explore DLC further, we have put together a list of four great watches that use DLC…

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Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 21.01.2021

INTRODUCING: Yes, it’s yet another bronze watch. But here’s why the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition matters…

Oris is well known in the watch world for making high quality timepieces that offer serious value. While less expensive than many of their competitors, Oris still uses top-notch materials like ceramic bezels and also now incorporates in-house calibers. By making the latest technology more accessible to buyers, the brand has cultivated a devout following. One material Oris has seriously mastered is bronze, having gone so far as to even produce a bronze chronograph with a bronze bracelet – totally unheard of in watchmaking. Today, Oris returns with a new bronze watch – their latest collaboration with the Carl Brashear…

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Bulgari releases 21.01.2021

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020

Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter of love or hate with no in between. But this polarising effect is primarily the result of  the brand’s success in creating genuinely original designs. The brand’s creativity and willingness to risk departing from the usual horological templates are qualities that are ultimately much needed…

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Youssef Abdelkarim 20.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman

When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a third-generation watchmaker in Baghdad. Thousands of watches fill his workshop, and Abdelkarim diligently spends his days at his desk working his way through the queue of watches that need his care and attention to fix. According to AFP, “Abdelkarim began fixing watches at the age…

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six years to make 20.01.2021

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline

When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury branding is one element of increased prices and margins. But another more genuine factor of the cost of a watch is the actual time it takes to develop, decorate and assemble. Back in 2014, Patek Philippe president and CEO Theirry Stern explained in an interview…

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ETA 2824 19.01.2021

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824

The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being said, ETA movements are still pervasive throughout the industry in both modified and unmodified forms. One staple of their manufacture is the ETA 2824, which has been seen in watches across the decades in everything from vintage Tudor Submariners to Omega Seamasters prior to the…

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Nicholas Hacko 19.01.2021

This Rolex restoration video by an Aussie watchmaker hit 1m views in record time, and we can see why…

We all dread the nightmare scenario of water damage in a watch. Water and watches is like Superman and kryptonite, too much exposure will wreck the timepiece. As soon as components are exposed to moisture, the process of oxidation and rust will begin and, as the days pass, render some of them irredeemable. Rolex makes some of the most robust and desirable watches in the world, but the increasingly luxurious nature of these products make some owners fearful of testing the professional capabilities of their tool watch. In a video released by Nicholas Hacko, a.k.a Master Watchmaker on YouTube, the…

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Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLNR 18.01.2021

VIDEO: Is the Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLNR “Bat Girl” worth the waiting list?

The Rolex GMT Master II range is incredibly sought after. Known for their jet-setting origins, they spruced up the wrists of golden age pilots who appreciated having that extra timezone information to hand. Today, the undeniable appeal for this functional luxury asset remains. Rolex have previously injected a good bit of colour into the 24 hour bi-directional bezels of the GMT line with blue and red (Pepsi), brown and yellow or brown and black (root beer), red and black (coke), and the highly debated all blue (blueberry). But the most modern of the colour duos is found in the blue…

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Reuben Schoots 18.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: How this 27-year-old beat a deadly virus, opiate addiction and depression to build a mechanical watch by hand

If you are a regular reader of Time+Tide you might be familiar with Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots. Reuben and I are the same age at 27 years old, but whereas I have yet to finish my copy of Watchmaking by George Daniels, Reuben is on the precipice of finishing his very own watch – built using the Daniels method. It takes a mountain of perseverance and technical skill to build a watch, especially when its components are all built by hand. But it is that much more impressive that Reuben is able to do so in the wake of battling…

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Kardashian 17.01.2021

Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps

OK, I am not going to pretend this show was part of my television diet, but Keeping up with the Kardashians has undoubtedly been a world phenomenon over the past 15 years it has aired. The Kardashian family is practically royalty in the United States with many devoted fans supporting their respective businesses and endeavours. Kylie Jenner, for example, was declared by Forbes to be the world’s youngest self-made billionaire at the age of 21. In part, the engagement with Kardashian products is the result of viewers feeling like part of the family and living in their limelight through vicarious…

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15.01.2021

Watches by material: 7 carbon watches that are lightweight, futuristic and hard as nails

Watchmaking is a heritage and tradition-driven industry that does not always feel the need to explore modern design and materials. But fortunately some manufacturers have realised there is a segment of consumers itching for brands to do just that. In previous articles I have noted the rather homogenised nature of watches on the market which, to be fair, is largely a result of our purchasing behaviors that steer the course that companies take. But the growing presence of carbon in watchmaking today constitutes a rebel outpost that is countering this aspect of the industry. Carbon has the benefit of being…

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Conor McGregor 15.01.2021

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist…

Conor McGregor is a larger-than-life personality within the world of MMA. When you’re as successful as the “The Notorious” Irishman, you can not only afford to strut your stuff in the manner he does, but also spend ludicrous sums of money on watches. Yesterday, McGregor shared a window into his extraordinary life, filming his visit to a Jacob & Co. boutique to purchase not just one watch but two! The brand’s watches by no means come cheap, incorporating high jewellry and horology into wildly original and creative timepieces. With an already knockout watch collection, McGregor spent nearly £2.2 million on…

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Grand Seiko SBGA413 13.01.2021

IN-DEPTH: The ‘other’ pink watch: Why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGA413 instead of waiting for the pink Rolex OP 36

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 was announced back in September, I was pleasantly surprised by the colourful Stella-inspired dials. Like a pack of Starburst candy though, the pink was my clear favourite. It just seemed so out of the crown’s wheelhouse, a gorgeous middle finger to everything you know and expect from the brand. The candy pink reference is definitely a peacocking dial, and I decided to put my name on the waiting list, figuring I could mull over if I was prepared to strap one on my wrist while I endured the inevitable wait. I sat by the…

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Jimmy Carr 12.01.2021

Comedian Jimmy Carr has got some astounding watches and is a Patek Philippe fiend

Jimmy Carr is one of my favourite comedians. His quick wit consistently incites belly laughs while his risqué punchlines are some of the best in the business. What’s less known about the British comedian is his incredible taste for watches, which he puts on full display throughout the comedy show Your Face or Mine that he co-hosts with fellow comedian Katherine Ryan (also hysterical). As you watch him masterfully roast guests who come on the show, you will also notice some astounding timepieces that make cameos throughout. Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1A and 5712/R More often than not, you will spot…

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six great ceramic watches 11.01.2021

Watches By Material: six great ceramic watches that are super-tough and super-cool

Ceramic was once a fairly rare material for watch cases with many manufacturers yet to tame the robust case medium. Now there are a plethora of options to choose from, all in varying colours, sizes, styles, and price points to choose from. Brands like Rolex and Omega use ceramic bezels on their divers (among other watches as well) in order to provide better resistance to the scratching and deterioration than is found on their metallic counterparts: aluminum or steel. So if this is the way to increase the longevity of a bezel, why not increase the durability of an entire…

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H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer 11.01.2021

INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like?

H. Moser & Cie. is a watch brand and manufacturer known for having fun and exploring a wide spectrum of colours and materials to fabricate their creations. But now they are taking a moment to get serious through a gorgeous green duo of timepieces. The new H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer Collection is a partnership between Moser and Duke University. As brand CEO Edouard Meylan explains, “Time is a precious, yet finite resource; we are thrilled to present these today to help find a cure for ALS.” The watches were designed in collaboration with Loy Stewart – a…

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Rolex watches you can buy that are still gaining value 10.01.2021

Four Rolex watches you can actually buy that are still gaining value

Let me just say from the outset that traditional investment strategies are generally a much safer bet than watches. Having said that, many watches have the potential to gain in value so that if and when the time come to part with the timepiece, you will get your money back (and possibly more). When it comes to Rolex, it is no secret that a stainless-steel Daytona, a GMT-Master II Batgirl or a Pepsi will all command serious premiums in the marketplace. But what about watches that you don’t have to pay a large premium for? In fact, what about Rolex…

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Five stunning platinum watches 09.01.2021

Stealth-wealth stunners: five platinum watches to die for (one of which the Swiss should be very afraid of…)

Platinum is the most noble metal for watches. It’s both precious and powerful, a tough and costly metal for brands to work with and for buyers to purchase. Yet being a white precious metal, there is a quiet irony to the aesthetic it provides. Platinum watches are usually the most expensive in any brand’s catalogue, yet they make for some of the best stealth-wealth options due to the fact they look like steel watches at first glance. It’s only when you feel their reassuring heft on the wrist that you truly know what you are dealing with. Here are five…

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Omega Speedmaster 3861 08.01.2021

What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers?

Earlier this week, aptly on a #speedytuesday in Switzerland, Omega has released a new generation of Omega Speedmaster watches. The upgrade has been long-awaited with the previous references largely unchanged for the past 50 years. The Omega Speedmaster 3861 models announced  introduce master chronometer co-axial technology to the professional moon watch – with subtle changes to its case, dial and bezel, plus an overhauled bracelet. Let’s take a closer look at the new watches and what they may mean for prospective buyers worldwide. The 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection The new-generation Omega Speedmaster 3861 collection comes in the form of four…

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GMT Master II 126710BLNR 07.01.2021

IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader

Rolex … oh dear, Rolex … love the watches, hate the limited amount of product available. As much as it would be easy to chalk it up to brand power and allure, the reality is the crown manufacturer makes one hell of a wristwatch. The Rolex name may draw all-comers into purchasing their pieces, but the build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics get top marks from collectors and connoisseurs as well. We ultimately vote with our dollars, dictating the values of watches on the second-hand market. But Rolex has its role in this as well. With the industry equivalent of voter…

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 06.01.2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend

This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not only powered by a then rare high-beat movement, but they also had gradient dials – which Zenith claims was the first smoked dials for the industry at large. Today the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 brings back the smoked brown gradient dial variant of the initial…

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2021 Watch Predictions: Will the BB58 replace the 41mm line? 06.01.2021

2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up?

Look, I don’t have a crystal ball that can tell me which new watches will or will not drop this year. But when people raise the question of whether or not the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with its 39mm dial will replace the 41mm line in the Tudor catalogue, I am not afraid to share my prediction. The short answer: no. Believe me, as the resident tiny wrister of the Time+Tide team (who regularly and playfully battles with his boss on the issue of ideal case diameters) I would have no qualms if this did actually happen. But if I really…

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Nicki Minaj 05.01.2021

Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K

Well. I don’t know if Nicki Minaj saw my recent story about six unexpected watch spots, which included Cristiano Ronaldo Jr. wearing his father’s Rolex – the most expensive one for sale at retail today. But it seems I may have been a little hasty in proclaiming Ronaldo Jr. the junior #wristgame champion. I genuinely believed flexing such a timepiece at the tender age of 10 would be impossible to top, but Nicki Minaj may have done just that. This week, Nicki shared the first public photo of her three-month-old son flexing some serious bling. Her post was captioned with the…

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Bob's Watches Rolex Watch Resource 05.01.2021

RECOMMENDED READING: This is the absolute Bible for all things Rolex

Rolex may seem like a straight-forward brand with timeless references within the catalogue that have only incrementally changed over the years. But watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres and, playing at the summit of watchmaking, Rolex watches are replicated and copied endlessly. Navigating the second-hand Rolex market can be frightening at times, with the inherent risk of investing in a forgery. The age-old advice is always to “buy the seller” and fortunately a vendor like Bob’s Watches is a master of all things Rolex. They not only handle some of the most in-demand Rolex models today, but have…

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watches I wore most in 2020 04.01.2021

The three watches Zach wore most in 2020: Tudor, Grand Seiko and Rolex

Editor’s note: You may note one watch gets more air time in this article than the other two. When we originally tasked our team to put this together, we prompted our writers to pick the one watch they wore the most in 2020. But we decided to give you all more bang for your buck, and instead ask what were the three watches they wore most in 2020. Zach … take it away. When it comes to my watch collection, I always try to spread the love. Unless I am reviewing a watch, or in the honeymoon phase with a new addition to…

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Six of the most unexpected watch spots 04.01.2021

From Daniel Craig to Ronaldo Jr, six watches we never expected to spot on these wrists…

Who doesn’t love a good watch spot? You know you’re in the presence of a true watch geek if they feel the need to pause the film every time a timepiece makes a cameo. But at times, these discoveries can feel a bit predictable. Musicians are constantly found wearing AP Royal Oaks or Nautilus references, while Rolex always makes regular appearances. But every now and then, we spot a familiar brand end up on a rather surprising wrist – or in a surprising moment. Here are six of the most unexpected watch spots we have ever seen. Philippe Dufour’s Rolex…

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Gael Monfils 03.01.2021

The watch collection of tennis player Gael Monfils is as thrilling as his playing style

It is no secret Gael Monfils is an absolute superstar on the tennis court. He is known for his lively and exciting matches where his acrobatic and daredevil style really entertains fans of the sport. We recently covered his bonkers experiment with Greubel Forsey, where he was enlisted by the brand to wear their GMT Sport watch during practice and even smash a few serves full speed directly at the $500,000 timepiece and its front-facing sapphire crystal. A lesser-known fact about the top-ranking tennis player is that he is a fully-fledged horology addict and watch enthusiast who even has a…

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2021 please be better 02.01.2021

5 New Year’s resolutions for the watch world to stick to in 2021

This year has sucked with the suction power of an industrial vacuum cleaner hoovering up a barrel full of straws. So we all hope that 2021 salvages this grim situation with new opportunities, experiences and an overall healthier world. Considering the chaos of the year, watch releases were actually pretty strong, yet there is always room for improvement. The watch industry and even its community of devoted fans have room to grow and this is (hopefully) the year to make it happen. We need more innovation, creativity and value in both product and perspective to spice things up. So 2021,…

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Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy 27.12.2020

HANDS-ON: Get marooned with the Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy launched with RedBar

Since its release, the Rado Captain Cook line has provided watch buyers with a robust option in the dive watch category at a pleasingly approachable price. The watches boast ceramic bezels, 300m water-resistant cases of varying materials, plus movements that last longer than many of their more expensive competitors. Yet despite such attributes, the Captain Cook manages to keep its costs down. The introduction of a new colour configuration into the mix – the Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy – is likely to only enhance the watch’s heady appeal. When Rado developed this red/burgundy configuration of the watch, Rado CEO…

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2021 NBA 26.12.2020

From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame

Basketball is back and not in the bubble! But while the players battle it out on the court, as always, an equally fascinating sideshow will also unfold for watch enthusiasts. That’s because the NBA is not only home to some of sport’s biggest superstars, but also some superstar watch collections. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, Patek Philippe, Cartier – you name it, they’ve got it. To celebrate the return of basketball, we wanted to highlight some of the watches we have seen the best in the game wear – whether courtside, heading to and from the locker room, during press…

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how the thinnest watch ever made came to be 25.12.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made

This year, Piaget achieved an unfathomable feat in watchmaking – a production timepiece only 2mm thick! Not surprisingly, given the scale of this achievement, the composition of the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is extremely complex. Its super-thin mechanism and harmony between case and movement will astound even the most jaded collectors and it will likely be a long time before anyone can top this new world record in watchmaking. To better understand this incredible watch that was awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” grand prize at the GPHG a few months back, we turn to none other than Mr. Watchfinder himself who…

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Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 23.12.2020

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT

Having a relationship with brands and authorised dealers is something any watch collector strives for. If you’re thinking that a quick re-read of How to Make Friends and Influence People will help you with this, we have bad news. This connection is typically developed through purchase history rather than charm, genuine dialogue and friendship. Being a celebrity, superstar, and worldwide icon, however, can really open up doors and create hitherto unheard-of possibilities. Whether it’s a bespoke Patek Philippe, the latest high complication piece from Audemars Piguet, or otherwise unseen Rolex models (for example, the 2020 Collection), Mr John C. Mayer is…

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A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 21.12.2020

Extreme close-up! Exploring the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk with Mr. Macro @horomariobro

For watch enthusiasts, it’s always a pleasure to get a closer look at our favourite watches – especially when the watch in question is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. In his conversation with Mr. Macro himself, @horomariobro, Andrew gets a little more familiar with the Zeitwerk movement that essentially offers a digital watch in mechanical form. Within four masterful shots, @Horomariobro neatly lays out exactly what makes the digital display jump – and even digs into a hidden feature regarding the movement’s brake lever. AM: What are we looking at here? I assume it is A. Lange & Söhne.…

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Grand Seiko SBGE263 19.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition

Grand Seiko has been celebrating its 60th Anniversary these past few weeks and months, but during today’s Grand Seiko USA webinar some huge news was announced regarding the future of Grand Seiko USA, as well as a new watch – the Grand Seiko SBGE263 US Limited Edition. The 110 watches are a nod to the 10th anniversary of Grand Seiko USA. Before we dig into the watch, it’s worth noting an announcement fans and collectors of the brand stateside have been eagerly awaiting – the expansion of the GS9 Club in the US. For the first time outside of Japan,…

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Grand Seiko SBGX341 19.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option

Are there any manufacturers that do quartz better than Grand Seiko? The brand, after all, makes their own quartz crystals in-house and upholds them to the most rigorous standards of accuracy – the 9F series of movements, for example, are regulated to run within +/- 10 seconds per year at a minimum. The deviation is so low, its accuracy over the course of 365 days is equivalent to the accuracy per day of a standard movement. While quartz and its high accuracy is not limited to Grand Seiko, the exquisite Zaratsu finishings bestowed on the watch cases by the brand’s…

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favourite men's diamond watches 18.12.2020

Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend

Many guys dismiss the idea of wearing a diamond watch out of fear it’ll seem ludicrously over the top. Admittedly, countless celebrities rock blinged-out watches smothered with so many diamonds you can barely see the metal. But there are other, more subtle alternatives to the fully iced-out look you may want to explore. It is no secret diamonds can add hefty premiums to watch prices, especially when bought at retail. Here are eight of our favourite men’s diamond watches – ranging from the more affordable entry-level pieces all the way to six figures. Tudor Royal ref. M28600-0004 Probably the most interesting…

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buying her first watch 17.12.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch

When you’re a hardcore enthusiast it’s easy to get stuck in the #watchfam echo chamber, so it’s always nice to get some outside perspective from others who’ve yet to fall down the horological rabbit hole. That’s exactly what we got from journalist Liana Satenstein, as she ponders her first move in acquiring a classic watch. She recently published this story on Vogue about why she is buying her first watch – and the sentiment is very relatable. In “Why I’m Buying My First Watch”, Satenstein explores her relationship with technology. She remarks, “There’s no doubt that the digital abyss of…

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Three Favorite Watches of 2020 16.12.2020

LIST: Zach’s 3 favourite watches of 2020

This year was strange, to put it mildly. The pandemic was ever-present, lurking over our shoulder, keeping us locked in our homes and generally limiting our contact with the rest of the world. Fortunately, for those of us into watches, the new releases have continued to flow with manufacturers adapting their release strategies to meet the year’s peculiar demands. Here are my three favourite watches of 2020. Kurono “Mori” One-Year Anniversary Limited Edition In my opinion, Kurono watches have the best ratio of affordability to artistry. Lucky buyers get world-class dials and hands in a classic 37mm case profile that’s…

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William Wood Valiant Bronze 14.12.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Valiant Bronze is inspired by firemen and smoking hot

If there is one main takeaway from our Micro Mondays series, it’s that you don’t have to spend top dollar to get a top-notch watch. William Wood, a watch manufacturer based in London, works to provide consumers with more approachable options for wrist-wear. They work within familiar frameworks, but with distinct designs and details. The William Wood Valiant Bronze is one such design, with plenty to explore as you delve deeper. The backstory William Wood was the name of brand founder Jonny Garrett’s late grandfather. For more than 25 years, William Wood served in the British Fire Service, winning commendations…

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Raketa 14.12.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The New York Times pulls back the iron curtain on Raketa

When it comes to watches, we too often think of the Swiss – with the German and Japanese manufacturers no longer trailing far behind. But watchmaking is truly a global enterprise. In Russia, many collectors will immediately think of Konstantin Chaykin’s maverick creations. But there is also a larger manufacturer, with a surprising amount of in-house know-how and original design. Raketa is a Russian watch brand with incredibly rich and, sadly, lesser-known heritage. They offer some stellar creations at more approachable price points. There is serious value at play here, as it is rare to find vertically manufactured pieces that…

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Five great accessories in the Time+Tide Marketplace 13.12.2020

Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself)

The gift-giving season has arrived, with Christmas and other holidays just around the corner. Odds are if you’re reading this article (or any content on Time+Tide for that matter) that you, or someone you know, have a sweet spot for watch-related goodies. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait till the last minute or spend a great deal of time pondering what would make a great stocking stuffer this year, as we have assembled five great accessories that will definitely get the recipient’s heart ticking. Each of the below items are available now for purchase in the Time+Tide Marketplace, click on…

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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch 13.12.2020

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist

Hublot is a brand that does not always get its horological due. The movements that the brand does not produce in-house are horological footnotes compared to the movements that they do. At their core, Hublot are a bold, brave and forward-thinking manufacturer, and an excellent example of this temerity is the Meca-10 movement. As its name suggests, the caliber provides a long-lasting 10 days of power reserve and offers a distinctly Hublot aesthetic in form and finish. It’s quite the marvel in the metal, and a feast for the eyes for even the most seasoned gearheads. This is why it…

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James Harden 10.12.2020

Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries)

Being a superstar athlete clearly has its perks. Sure, there is glory within achievements and success found in their respective sport, but if you become such an anchoring presence to a team, such as NBA player James Harden, it also means you receive quite the hefty payday. Harden, who has reportedly amassed more than $224,000,000 during his career, can clearly afford to spoil his friends with gifts, and lucky for rapper Lil Baby he did just that for the musician’s 26th birthday. Filmed in Las Vegas last week, during the birthday celebrations and shenanigans, it was revealed James Harden really…

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GPHG 10.12.2020

8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million

Skeleton dials are not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, but the gearheads and engineers among us go crazy for the transparent aesthetic. They allow the wearer to see the internals of their watch throughout the day without having to flip the watch over to take a peek. When done right, it becomes a fascinating city of gears beneath the crystal that is sure to raise intrigue with any eye it catches. This year has had some pretty neat skeleton releases, so we have compiled 8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020 for your pleasure. Swatch x 007 ²Q While…

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five favorite articles from 2020 10.12.2020

LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020

The year is coming to a close (thank heavens) and there is a brighter horizon to look forward to in the coming months. However, there is value in reflecting on this past year, with the Time+Tide team coming in strong with amazing content throughout the doom and gloom – some of which you may have even missed! I took a deep dive into our archives and found the written content that struck a note with me this year, and have assembled my five favourite articles of 2020 for your viewing pleasure. INTRODUCING: The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a…

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favorite SmartWatches for Kids 2020 09.12.2020

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why

There are three reasons to gift your child a smartwatch. One, it is a great way to introduce your kid(s) to the horological world and get them going early on their love for a timekeeper on the wrist. The second reason is timing; the holidays are almost here. The third reason is, having done some research this week, they’re actually very handy for lots of reasons, from safety to communication to the ways that they can encourage a healthier lifestyle. Since the birth of the category, which the Swiss have no doubt dreaded in its world domination, smartwatches have become…

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Eugen Wegner One 07.12.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Eugen Wegner One is the watch to revive the family fortunes

It isn’t easy for just anyone to become a watch manufacturer. It takes determination, know-how and a passion for watchmaking to claim that dwindling slice of the sales pie not consumed by the larger conglomerates. But fortunately there are those taking big strides, while putting their own spin on modern horology. Eugen Wegner is a brand recently revived by Jonas Bley – the great-great grandson of Eugen himself – who is looking to drive the watchmaker forward. Jonas has brought three new watches to the table: the Hevelius (39mm time-only), Phoenix (time and date), and our primary focus today, the…

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Zero West TT-58 07.12.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache

We recently covered up-and-coming British manufacturer Zero West, and their Spitfire S4-P9427 aviation watch. But pilot’s watches are not the only horological ace up their sleeve, they also encapsulate great moments in British history on land and sea. Across all three lines, one common theme they share are distinctive cases and aesthetics that can only be construed as Zero West. Founders Andrew Brabyn (designer) and Graham Collins (ex-black ops military engineer) truly work to make creations that stand out from the norm and rework heritage inspirations in fresh forms. Today, let’s dig in to one of their British automotive-inspired timepieces,…

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Five Rolex models available near retail pricing 06.12.2020

5 Rolex models just over and just under RRP that you can pick up now on Bob’s Watches, including a surprising Daytona…

As we’ve recently established, in Matt’s story here, we are no stranger to the discussion around Rolex scarcity. Trust me, as regular watch buyers, we totally get it. I am personally disappointed and dismayed each day I don’t hear back from the authorised dealers in New York City and beyond that I visited to express interest in the Oyster Perpetual 36 model upon its release this year. Sadly, these Perpetual watches perpetually frustrate customers who can’t seem to get ahead in the enigma that is the Rolex waitlist. But you don’t have to suffer in silence. Here are  five Rolex…

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Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XI 06.12.2020

We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction?

Last week, Phillips held their latest watch auction in Hong Kong: the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XI. As per usual, there were some very neat, rare, and illustrious lots that collectors would salivate over – eager to add such fine timepieces to their collections. While the globe may have taken a beating this year from the pandemic, it is clear that top-tier collectors and buyers are still eager to acquire fine watches for top-dollar hammer prices. This auction, however, had an unexpected assembly of new watches. Each of the new colours within the 2020 Stella-inspired Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36…

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Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase 05.12.2020

VIDEO: The remarkable bang for buck of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase

As a brand, Baume & Mercier presents a lot of benefits to its consumers. They have established themselves as a luxury watch manufacturer that aims to present some of the best builds for the best dollar. It would be fair to say that what Longines represents to the Swatch Group is what Baume & Mercier means within the Richemont group. With the Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase, Baume & Mercier bring undeniable value to the consumer with watches that technically punch far above their price point. With upgrades such as silicon hairsprings, 120 hours of power…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic 03.12.2020

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic

If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price tag in steel. Since its launch, however, the Royal Oak has taken the watch-collecting world by storm – with celebrities from The Rock to Jay-Z opting to sport the coveted timepiece. It has also undergone many evolutions; its technology endlessly upgraded with new complications and…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase 02.12.2020

INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up

When the time comes to add complications to your roster of wrist wear, Baume & Mercier is a great brand to turn to. Not only are their watches competitively priced, but they are also comparably well-built when considered alongside many of their more expensive peers. In this way, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase 10552 ticks a lot of boxes while also bringing their in-house manufacturing nous to the party. You’re buying more than just the brand name here, you’re also getting some serious tech. The case The stainless-steel case of this watch is 42mm in diameter…

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Richard Mille RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon 02.12.2020

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch

Editor’s note: I remember it like it was yesterday. I was standing next to a stripper pole with a lovely girl named Agnes, who toured me through all the functions of the brand new RM 69 random-phrase-generating watch by Richard Mille. We then tried it out, so to speak. Lots of fun. But is it fun enough to risk nine years jail for, if you don’t happen to have the funds to buy one of the only 30 models in existence? That’s a question one mugger has plenty of time to ponder now. Zach has more … – Andrew  …

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Fratello Watches x Oris 02.12.2020

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster)

Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I mean, look at it. Here, Fratello founder Robert-Jan Broer reveals how the partnership started and the hidden details that make this 300-piece run feel so distinct and fresh. How did this partnership and collaboration come about? What is the origin story here? We had a…

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Fratello Watches Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 01.12.2020

HANDS-ON: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is like a glass of Bordeaux in a golden goblet

Who doesn’t love a good limited edition, especially when it’s in the form of an unlikely collaboration? There is something about acquiring a watch that’s not only beautiful but rare that makes it feel all the more special. Not all limited editions are created equal, of course, but when all the details are just right, the resulting watch becomes even more desirable by dint of its exclusivity. Our friends at Fratello Watches have just created such a timepiece. They’ve teamed up with Oris to create some serious awesomeness, rich with the #details we crave, in the form of the Oris…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase 01.12.2020

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking

Everyone loves good value. It’s always nice to walk away from a purchase with the smug feeling that you got a lot more than what you paid for. One brand that consistently provides those good vibes is Baume & Mercier. They really know how to walk the fine line between luxury and accessibility and it is no secret that we at Time+Tide are genuine fans of what they have to offer. Not in general, because the brand has suffered dark patches, but specifically since they re-entered the fray with the Baumatic. Modern-day Baume & Mercier ticks a lot of boxes…

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Seiko 5 Sports NARUTO 30.11.2020

Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas

Naruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based on some of the central characters from the show. Before we dig into the distinct characteristics of each reference, let’s dig into the elements they all have in common. The watches are essentially variations on the Seiko 5 Sports watch that’s widely regarded as a…

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30.11.2020

This collector has a different Omega Speedmaster for every day of the year, and has even made ‘Speedy Suspenders’…

Editor’s note: This is a story that focuses on two things, being the collection and story of the man that almost certainly owns more Speedmasters than any other collector on earth, Mr Bhaskar Eswaran. It also leads into a description of the new Omega Authentication service for watches more than 30 years old. I am lucky to have had my beloved Omega Ranchero authenticated by Omega, and can say the service is exceptional, and the cherished red envelope that the official information arrives in is akin to receiving a Top Secret dossier from James Bond. More on that in another…

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best pilot watches of 2020 under $10k 28.11.2020

Business class for an economy fare: the best pilot watches of 2020 under $10K

Watches and aviation have long been on the same flight path, with multiple timepieces made specifically to take to the skies. Without aviation, for example, we would not have the historic Cartier Santos – named after Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pilot who requested its creation. Known for their larger cases and high degree of legibility, pilot’s watches have attracted many buyers over the years who’ve never ventured anywhere near a cockpit. But whether you’re a budding Top Gun or permanently grounded, these are the best pilot watches of 2020 under $10K. Longines Spirit 40mm blue dial on leather strap The Spirit…

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford 26.11.2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known for taking watches to a whole new level, providing incredible makeovers to timepieces that leave some wondering how it was not made a production model in the first place. Today, TAG Heuer and Bamford once again team up with the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford…

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AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition 26.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans

More than 50 years ago, an aviation team led by pilot Tom Lecky-Thompson embarked on what they referred to as codename “Blue Nylon”. So, what was the top-secret project? The group was making preparations for Lecky-Thompson’s attempt to enter the Transatlantic Air Race in 1969, which involved pilots flying from London all the way to New York. The pilot would go on to win the race, successfully flying his Harrier XV741 across the Atlantic to take home first prize. In honour of this accomplishment, AVI-8 has released its second limited-edition with the AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon. The case The…

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most expensive watches sold on Ebay in 2020 25.11.2020

The most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2020

With eBay being one of the largest marketplaces in the world, the go-to platform for sellers looking to find buyers for their goods, it can be home to some of the most desired and in-demand products worldwide – including watches. While some have hesitated to take the plunge on a watch purchase via the site, due to a fear of counterfeit products or listings, eBay has now incorporated an independent authentication service for sellers and buyers to utilise on top of their eBay money-back guarantee. This makes it safer than ever to dive into the watch category on the site,…

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The Queen's Gambit Bulova 25.11.2020

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit”

Being quarantined in our homes this year has encouraged us to binge more series and films than ever before. Fortunately, it’s the golden age of TV dramas, which means you don’t have to re-watch an episode of The Office or Seinfeld for the 100th time. One such show that has recently taken Netflix by storm is The Queen’s Gambit, which, at the time of writing, has been viewed by 62 million households in its first 28 days of release, making it the streaming channel’s most popular limited series ever. For watch enthusiasts, however, any checkerboard manoeuvres were eclipsed when protagonist Beth…

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24.11.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe production is down 30% due to COVID-19

If you have been holding your breath for the 5711 you put your name down for seven years ago, it’s time to listen to Queen Elsa and let it go – alternatively, you’ll suffocate. Like all watch manufacturers in these unprecedented times, Patek Philippe has taken a hit to its productivity for the year, enduring lockdowns and, later, staggered workforces and interrupted production. The brand has also had to adapt the way they engage with and present to consumers – allowing authorised dealers to list their watches online and recently launching their first watch via a digital announcement. By no…

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IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection 24.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The elegance and nuance of the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection in the metal

Earlier this year, in April, the IWC Portugieser 2020 Collection was announced at Watches & Wonders. The Portugieser was created in 1939 due to a demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. Legibility and accuracy are the two pillars that hold up the Portugieser line, and IWC has changed very little to the winning formula over the years. As IWC puts it, this year was the evolution of a classic. In order to maintain the Portugieser aesthetic we have all come to know and love, the majority of the evolution throughout the lineup is…

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Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma 24.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it?

Watching on from the sidelines, consumers on social media constantly beg the watch industry to put the novel in novelties, asking for original, fresh, and forward-thinking designs in a conventional and traditional industry. Instead, we get 1mm variations in size, a new dial colour, and the crowd goes wild to the extent that boggles the mind. In other words, people don’t know what they want. If you’re a watch lover that genuinely seeks a different view of things, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is for you, and it’s coming in hot. The case The 43mm case is made of…

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AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition 23.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition

Pilot’s watches have always been a strong category for watch consumers around the world, drawing an emotional and heritage-driven connection to the symbiosis between aviation and horology. Inspired by a Harrier XV741 flown in a 1969 Transatlantic Air Race from London to New York, AVI-8 offers a value-driven pilot’s watch designed with a clear and detailed love for all things aviation. The brand has worked very hard to appropriately pay homage to Tom Lecky-Thompson and his team through subtle nods to the pilot and plane that won more than 50 years ago. Code-named “Blue Nylon” by Lecky-Thompson and his team, AVI-8…

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22.11.2020

Rolex Datejust Michael Jordan gifted his personal security guard up for auction, current bid under $3K

Earlier this year, the amazing docu-series from ESPN & Netflix The Last Dance gave viewers an intimate look into the dynasty, the mind and the life of Michael Jordan, his Bulls teammates, and the staff around him. If you have not seen it yet, I highly recommend it, as even those who are not basketball fans will love the insight it provides into one of the most legendary athletes of all time. Throughout the series, it becomes very clear how close Michael Jordan was to those around him. He either loved or hated you, with no in between. One individual he…

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22.11.2020

16 of the best dive watches of 2020 under $10K

With the arrival of a long awaited, and if we dare say so, well deserved summer, it means dive watch season is here. Dive watches are a staple of any watch collection, known for their robust qualities that make them a suitable wrist companion in almost all environments. Looking for something new to explore the ocean with? Here are the best dive watches of 2020, all under $10,000 AUD. Longines HydroConquest Green The Longines HydroConquest Green on rubber offers a ton of value at a much lower price point. The 300m water resistant steel case is 41mm x 12mm and…

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Grand Seiko SBGJ241 21.11.2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT, only the second vertical striped dial of this kind

Watch designs can be very homogenous at times, with brands capitalising on iconic silhouettes and forms to elevate their offerings. Grand Seiko, among other manufacturers, never utilises borrowed design and constantly puts the “novel” in novelties with fresh releases than can be easily spotted from across the room. Through their pillars of design, the brand creates meticulously crafted timepieces that are heavily reflective of Japan, its beauty, and traditions. The new Grand Seiko SBGJ241 is yet another stunning release that incorporates the essence of the brand in a original way. The case The 40mm case is fabricated in stainless steel, built…

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"Iconic Watches of Hollywood" 20.11.2020

The “Iconic Watches of Hollywood” auction by Bob’s Watches has some batshit-crazy Rolex models in it

Auction catalogues can be quite intimidating at times, with hundreds of lots, understated estimates, and vague additional costs tacked on after achieving a winning bid. Bob’s Watches has completely streamlined the process for the end consumer, curating a small selection of highly desirable watches across a range of price points with their “Fresh Finds – Iconic Watches of Hollywood” auction launched earlier this week. Running for one week, from Monday, November 16 to November 23, Bob’s Watches once again goes for quality over quantity with five killer references that have all graced the wrists of some of Hollywood’s most famous stars both…

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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition 19.11.2020

INTRODUCING: Staying golden with the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition

Today, TAG Heuer celebrates the 88th birthday of the legendary former CEO and current Honorary Chairman Jack Heuer by re-issuing Jack’s favourite ever Heuer watch, the gold Heuer Carrera 1158CHN. Jack, the great-grandson of Edouard Heuer, was an innovative leader of the famed manufacturer who worked with his family’s company for almost three decades. Two years after he joined the business, in 1960, Jack became one of the youngest leaders of a watch manufacture, at the age of 28. He devoted himself to many projects throughout the years, but his personal favourite to this day is the creation of the…

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best quartz watches of 2020 19.11.2020

6 impressive quartz watches released in 2020, including Grand Seiko, Breitling and Bulova

It is no secret that quartz has its haters. It was only last week that we were in conversation with Roger Smith, who reminded us that George Daniels himself used to pooh pooh quartz, saying “why would you buy something that did kamikaze every three years?” But others, equally informed within the community, will attest to its worth and place. While quartz does not necessarily have the same sense of tradition and heritage as mechanical watches, it should not be disqualified or discounted as its own art form. Not all quartz is created equal, and brands work very hard to…

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MB&F Legacy Machine 101 18.11.2020

Finding balance in 2020 with Mr Macro @horomariobro

It is no secret that a lot has happened this year – lockdown insanity, pre and post election anxiety, and oh-so much more. So let’s take a second to find Zen with a visual reminder of time beating forward. If you haven’t already, observing a watch tick away in slow motion is an extraordinarily relaxing thing to do. Often it is referred to as the heartbeat of a watch, but if you think about it, watching the hairspring expand and contract (at least in slow motion) is akin to taking a nice deep breath. With the MB&F Legacy Machine 101…

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one watch collection 17.11.2020

The white dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 is an ice-cold classic hiding in plain sight

Editor’s note: With many expecting (or more accurately hoping) for an Rolex Explorer refresh come 2021, we wanted to revisit that time in 2018 when our Canadian contributor – who you might know from his all-conquering BLNR review – Bruce Duguay was offered one by his AD. When presented with an Explorer II 16570 at retail (and with a discount no less), Bruce may or may not have declined to snag it – his eyes and heart possibly taken by another family within the Rolex catalogue. We will let you read the full story below, but one thing we suggest you keep…

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Vario 1918 Trench 16.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line

Military watches, or tool watches, are incredibly popular in today’s marketplace – with heritage becoming a huge emotional driver behind watch purchases. The Vario 1918 Trench Watch is a new and affordable option for buyers looking for a detail-driven and military-inspired timepiece. Vario carefully considers each component utilised within their Trench watches, working to provide the best build and value to the end consumer. The story Most tools and products are born as solutions to encumbrances and problems. To make our lives easier than they were previously. During the First World War, soldiers and officers utilised pocket watches that were integral to…

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best dress watches of 2020 over $10K 15.11.2020

8 of the best dress watches of 2020 over $10K, featuring Grand Seiko, Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre

Dress watches are the epitome of traditional horology. I know, sports watches are trendy and consume a large portion of the conversation – but there is something, whether tangible or intangible, that dress watches provide that a sports watch simply cannot and never will. They may not be your daily wearer, you certainly won’t take a dress watch to the beach. But for those crucial moments, whether a wedding or a job interview, the formal dress watch provides a certain kind of gentlemanly confidence boost that you just can’t find in professional tool watches. When I go out into the…

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14.11.2020

#shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore

Earlier this week, we shared our thoughts on phrases we are completely guilty of using at times, but wondered if it would be best to retire them. We’re not declaring right or wrong here, but rather just initiating a bit of a thought experiment and evaluating what effect our cultural rhetoric (so to speak) has on our industry and collecting community. It is no secret that tastes have homogenised quite a bit, and a case could be made that our common vernacular is one of the roots of the problem. Arguably, it creates a code of buyer conduct – rules…

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GPHG 2020 13.11.2020

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing…

The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of these members ultimately selected to serve as the final jury. This year, unfortunate circumstances minimised the physical in-person presence at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève). Nonetheless, the show was upbeat and filled with that good ol’ Swiss humour and an abundance of cheese-related…

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GPHG 13.11.2020

“I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense

As with any awards show, there can be a discrepancy between which watches fans think should have won and the watches that actually win. And it has to be said that the divide between popular and GPHG opinion is something of a canyon these days, with mega-brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe curiously not making any kind of showing. If this is indeed the “Oscars” for watchmaking, aren’t we rolling without Spielberg? Or, in the modern day, saying no to Nolan? This is a subject deserving of a post of its own, because, of course, “it’s complicated”. How so? It’s…

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue 13.11.2020

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang

Let’s face it – blue is a very saturated colour throughout the novelties of 2020. This is not necessarily due to a lack of creativity. If anything, it is fan service: brands truly working to provide what the people want. Hublot, on the other hand, is not one to just follow a trend – they find a way to tweak it in their moderate moments, and disrupt the hell out of it at their most extreme. And thus, they have created a new answer to the blue craze with the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Leveraging their innovative approach…

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12.11.2020

“Get your hands off my Patek…” Remembering the watches and antics of Nicolas ‘Bling-Bling’ Sarkozy

Editor’s note: We recently performed an overview of the watches most commonly worn by Donald Trump and Joe Biden, but despite being fresh from the campaign trial neither has ever had to do what former French Prime Minister Nicolas Sarkozy did. Sarkozy — fearing his Patek Philippe would be stolen — actually took his watch off as he met the people, after a few aggressive/enthusiastic handshakes with the crowd, to ensure his precious timepiece was not ripped from his wrist in the process. Say what you will about American presidents, but they have never had to remove their watches in fear of…

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue 12.11.2020

The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is part of a one-two colour punch that is peak Hublot

The ubiquity of blue this year has not gone unnoticed, with almost every brand hopping onto the trend in the hope of convincing more consumers to buy their watches. Hublot’s direction in the colour chosen for the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is not a case of trend-following. It’s yet more proof of the brand reading the room – where suddenly bright colours are more popular than ever, thanks to the gloomy global 2020 mood – and turning the freshness factor up to 11. Instead of just another blue dial, Hublot brings an entirely new shade of the colour…

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10.11.2020

INTRODUCING: In tribute to the founder of Seiko, the new Grand Seiko SBGZ005 and SBGW260

Grand Seiko recently celebrated the 60th anniversary of the brand, and released an amazing collection of six watches in honour of the occasion. But now another two anniversaries are on the horizon – and they are big ones. 2021 will mark the 160th anniversary of the birth of founder Kintaro Hattori and the 140th anniversary of the birth of the Seiko Corporation. Hattori, at the age of 21, would create what would later become Seikosha and eventually the Seiko Corporation we have all become so fond of. Very forward-thinking for the time, Hattori wanted to master all aspects of watchmaking…

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10.11.2020

Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style…

Last week, Lashana Lynch confirmed in Harper’s Bazaar that she would inherit the 007 mantle in No Time to Die, which is the 25th Bond film, due to hit cinemas in April 2021. During her interview she touched on a variety of points, including the perception of her casting and how she wanted to tackle the role. For the toxic personalities resisting this change, the best way to digest it is the simple reality she does not want to be James Bond or a knockoff “Jane Bond” character. She has only taken the mantle of 007, and with the help…

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Bamford Watch Department 09.11.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: A proper backstory to the Bamford Watch Department, the rebel modder that turned into a watch brand

Watch modification is now rampant throughout the watch community. From modded Seiko watches to blacked-out Rolex Milgauss pieces in Hollywood, a desire to personalise a watch and make it more of your own has always been an aspect of the watch industry. While some may opt for an engraved caseback, others have gone the route of completely overhauling the aesthetics of their watches. Like Hublot birthing the trend of rubber-strapped precious metal watches, someone has to be credited with starting the modding mayhem. Cue George Bamford, and the Bamford Watch Department. The backstory For George’s 18th birthday, the story goes,…

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08.11.2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser

Yesterday we explored the Top 10 sports watches under $10,000, but if you are willing to stretch your budget, there is an entirely new tier of top sports watches to explore as well. Here are 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10,000. Hublot Classic Fusion 40th Anniversary yellow gold The watch that birthed the luxury rubber trend, the Hublot 40th anniversary models are classic meets modern luxury sports watches. It blends the heritage of the brand with the Hublot we know today to create one of the most compelling watches within the category. The three watches come…

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07.11.2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty of just about every example here. So please understand, we are not above the law. We often break the law. Please forgive us, forgive yourselves, but let’s try to be better in 2021. OK? Thanks Zach, take it away … The watch enthusiast and collector…

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TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Anniversary 07.11.2020

We’re calling it: these are the best two vintage Carrera re-issues since the real thing. But which one is your favourite? And are you going to pull the trigger?

We’ve all likely seen these two glorious new Carrera references by now, but there are two hot questions remaining. Do you like either or both enough to pull the trigger? Because we have it on good authority that they’re just about done. You can pick them both up here until they’re gone. The second question is, which, in the end, is your favourite? TAG Heuer celebrate their 160th anniversary with two limited edition chronographs that each celebrate the essence of the brand in their own way. The TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition and the TAG Heuer Carrera…

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watch gift options under $5k 07.11.2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari

Sports watches have established themselves as the most sought-after and worn watches in the world. With a greater emphasis on outdoor activity and physical health, consumers need timepieces that can keep up with their active lifestyles. There has been no shortage of divers and chronographs this year, so we have compiled the best sports watches of 2020 under $10,000. Bulgari Aluminium time-only While this watch has taken previous forms over the years, its re-release in 2020 presents the most robust take on the aluminium model yet. With exceptional original design, the watch manages to have the heart and feel of…

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05.11.2020

Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month

WatchPro published an article today announcing the largest Rolex showroom in America is set to open in Boston in December. Originally meant to open earlier but delayed due to the COVID-19 crisis, the 4600 square foot showroom will be located within Long’s Jewelers – beating out current record holder Watches of Switzerland and their 3000 square foot showroom at Wynn Las Vegas. Located at 8 Newbury Street, the building was built in the 1920s and formerly housed a showroom for Rolls-Royce on its street level floor – clearly housing luxury product is in the building’s heritage. The store has quite…

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05.11.2020

Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore?

Look, we get it. Waitlists are frustrating, and watches are commanding higher values and premiums than ever before. But this has to be a new low. A Romanian couple has been caught red-handed, or rose-gold handed, attempting to steal a Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold from Audemars Piguet worth £67,000 GBP from venerated department store Harrods in the United Kingdom. According to the report, Ilie Para and Marta Para-Bloj, both 33, scoped out a particular model to steal from the Knightsbridge retailer, going so far as to take extensive photos of the watch to help them source a faithful…

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04.11.2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches…

As times change, the perception of the perfect fit evolves. When wristwatches were created, they were lauded for finally miniaturising the timepiece and making it a compact wearable object versus a large item that had to rest in a pocket. Now it seems, like American politics, the watch community is split in two: one party wants to upscale watches to larger sizes while another wants to bring back the classic sizes of yesteryear. I’ve heard and read people call for larger Submariners and Daytonas, or even bringing watches into the stratosphere of Panerai and Invicta sizing. I wonder who this…

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Friday Wind Down 6/11/20 04.11.2020

Retail versus secondhand: which 5 Rolex models have the most inflated prices on the seconds market?

Rolex watches are a universal status symbol, and among the most recognisable luxury items on the planet. The craze over their timepieces has never been greater, further propelling the brand away from its tool watch origins towards the pinnacle of luxury wristwear. With consumers flocking to buy out their catalogue, Rolex watches have become harder and harder to track down at retail – and as a result, conspiracies are rampant among consumers frustrated by enigmatic, Machiavellian waiting lists and seemingly scarce production. While it is not news to anyone that Rolex watches retain their value, we wanted to do a…

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Bulgari Aluminium Tricolore 03.11.2020

Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals

Editor’s note: Bulgari leapt to the aid of Australia earlier in the year, when they donated a glorious Serpenti to our Watch & Act! Auction in aid of the Australian bushfires. It turns out it wasn’t out of character. Since then the brand has shown tremendous moral leadership through 2020, and it continues with this special ‘Tricolore’ Edition of the Aluminium, which we’ve covered on video here and in a written review here. When the COVID-19 pandemic initially hit the world, Bulgari from the outset leveraged its resources in order to better service the Italian people. When hand sanitiser was in short…

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Apple Sales Swiss watch industry 03.11.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry

Whether you like it or not, the Apple Watch is here to stay and has proven itself the most popular wristwatch in the world. A watch for all people, whether working class, a professional athlete, or celebrity … everyone has seemed to hop on the Apple bandwagon. But is that really any surprise? The reality is it is an extension of your phone, another screen to engage with. Apple has already gotten users so addicted to their products, they introduced a screen time feature to help owners manage the amount of time they engage with their devices. In regard to…

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Eichi II 01.11.2020

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro

Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation about Rolex. The Eichi II, from Credor, is a watch most people do not have an option of seeing on-demand. It typically hits stores for showings for special events put together in honour of trade fairs or VIP customer gatherings. Thankfully, for those who have…

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01.11.2020

You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is…

The people have spoken, and it is clear that within the Fantasy Watch Collection 10K I was the people’s champion. I take great pride in my victory, listening to Queen’s “We Are the Champions” as I type this story. But I recognise I could not have won without your support, and thank you, the readers, for declaring me the winner of this segment. While I must confess that the two watches I selected were safely definitive crowd-pleasers, I truly stand by my choices and picked them without a desire to win the competition – these are genuinely the two watches…

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Trump versus Biden 31.10.2020

Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer?

We will have to wait to see who wins the election next week in the race for the presidency of the United States. In the meantime, we thought it would be a good time to check in and see what watches President Trump and former Vice President Biden have been wearing as of late. Politics is politics, watches are watches. The twain shall not necessarily meet in this contest. Two men, two different philosophies, and two different watch collections – politics aside, just which candidate has the better watch collection? Joe Biden Omega Seamaster 300M The most frequently spotted watch…

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Bruce Springsteen Anthony Kiedis Tudor Rolex 31.10.2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 3 – Wilsdorf Watches

In this final instalment of the Rockstars Rocking Vintage trilogy, we see two famous musicians go the way of Wilsdorf. He founded both Tudor and Rolex, and here we have spotted two desirable tool watches from the Wilsdorf group on the wrists of two artists from different generations – once again proving that vintage staples are timeless and appreciated by everyone truly initiated in the hobby. Anthony Kiedis – Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 in stainless steel Recently we showcased celebrities who wear blacked-out Milgauss watches from Rolex, and though Anthony Kiedis was on the list, he has also been…

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watch case materials 30.10.2020

3 gold sports watches that are cheaper than their steel siblings, including AP, Rolex and Patek Philippe

Stainless steel watches have definitely captured the hearts and wallets of collectors, with consumers joining waitlists for desired models and praying they can snag one “at-retail”. The VIP nature of the access, and the level of spend it takes to get in the good graces of dealers, has become so significant it is arguably less expensive to just cough up the premium on the grey market. Still, it can leave a bitter taste in your mouth knowing you’ve paid almost twice as much as the retail price of the watch. It’s just the principle really. But what if you could…

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hammer prices of celebrity owned watches 30.10.2020

How much value does the “Celebrity X Factor” add to the hammer price at auctions?

Editors note: While you might think these uncertain times would lead to a decline in luxury spending, auction houses are still raking in a great deal of money – with collectors assuaging their boredom under lockdown with incredible timepieces that come up for auction. The market for hot vintage watches is still going strong, with even modern in-demand models commanding unexpected premiums. As my colleague Brendan would put it – high-value vintage watches have proven themselves”pandemic-proof“. This reminded me of an article we published some time ago, which explored the hammer prices of celebrity-owned watches, and whether or not the “X factor”…

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Six Rockstars Rocking Vintage 30.10.2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 2 – Paul Newman Daytonas only

Ever since the “panda” dial Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sold for the GDP of a small African nation, it’s become the preserve of mega-rich rockstars only. And thus, we have just two examples of rockstars wearing it, one from the new school – old mate, Ed Sheeran who is quite the enthusiast and journeyman Eric Clapton. Both on Bund strap, both frequently on stage, and both stellar examples. If there’s ever been inspiration needed to work on your songsmithing to fund your watch habit, surely this is it? Eric Clapton – Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona ref. 6239 white “panda” dial in…

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Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J 29.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who spot the watch. Seiko raises the bar once again, introducing two new flavours of their cocktail watches with the limited edition Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J. The case The case is made of polished stainless steel in a wearable happy medium of proportions that should…

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29.10.2020

Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here…

The luxury watch industry is only growing around the world, and with many online publishers covering the world of horology extensively it has never been easier to learn about timepieces, their value, and the level of demand. One thing I do truly love about this hobby is there is a clear sense of community, a watchfam so to speak, that tries to look out for each other whenever possible. Today I would like to draw our attention to a very unfortunate incident that hit one of the most respected vintage watch dealers in the world: Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Image: Ⓒ…

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Six Rockstars Rocking Vintage 29.10.2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition

Celebrity watch spotting is a pastime of watch enthusiasts — there is something more genuine about a watch in the wild on a famous wrist than a planted timepiece as part of a contractual ambassadorship. While many opt for flashy precious metal and gemstone-covered watches to convey a sense of status and success that ties to their celebrity, those in the know can tell which celebrities are truly one of us. Usually by displaying impeccable taste with Phillips-worthy vintage creations slapped on their wrists. This kicks off a three-part series of rockstars rocking vintage watches — spotted with some help from…

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27.10.2020

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY

With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch industry as a whole. Back in September, the first-ever virtual lecture was held and featured none other than vintage watch collector and dealer Eric Ku. The idea driving the lecture was “Collecting Watches in the Time of COVID-19”, and, over the course of a little…

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25.10.2020

Those crazy bastards at Watchonista are sponsoring a NASCAR team

Editor’s note: There’s always been a healthy competitiveness between Time+Tide and Watchonista. This was evident when we recently did an Instagram live session that quickly degenerated into a State Of The Collection showdown between Andrew, Josh, and his wife Viviana. Now, they’ve gone and upped the ante by sponsoring a NASCAR team. So, if there are any obscure sports out there that have prominent branding opportunities, we’d like to hear from you. The Nordland Wife-Carrying Association? The Shropshire Bog-Snorkelling League? No sport will be excluded from our consideration. Please note: Payment in T-shirts, magazines and watch straps. Game on, Watchonista ……

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24.10.2020

The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit

One of the key pillars of a well-made watch is legibility. Consumers are always critical of how a dial is laid out and how strong and visible the luminescent material becomes once it’s in a darker setting. The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT brightens up 2020 with its fully lumed dial. This watch is seriously lit. The case The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the world’s slimmest self-winding watch with a chronograph and GMT function, with a 42mm extra-thin titanium case that is only 6.90mm thick. The case maintains the baroque faceted profile,…

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wristwatch VPH 22.10.2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is whether or not it has a sweeping seconds hands. But as enthusiasts and collectors are aware, not all sweeping hands beat to the same drum. To the naked eye, the differences can be hard to detect, but thanks to the maestro of macro, @horomaribro, today…

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Blacked Out Rolex 21.10.2020

What is it with celebrities and blacked-out Rolex Milgauss models? 5 examples, from Bourdain to Goldblum and beyond

Like it or loathe it, ‘modding’ watches is here to stay. And it’s increasingly accessible to you at any price point. At the lower end, you have the thriving, escalating world of @seikomods. At the highest end, you can modify your Piaget Ultimate Concept any which way you like. And in celebrity-land, you have the longtime practice of ‘blacking out’ your Rolex – and, in the process, bringing Hollywood flair to standard Rolex references, in particular, it seems, the Milgauss. We have written about several businesses that offer this service – Artisans de Genève, Blaken, Titan, and Project X Designs,…

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20.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years

It is fair to argue that the two most popular watch categories that find their way onto the wrists of buyers around the world are dive watches and chronographs. Both have their merits and are classic staples of the watch industry, but what if there was a way to have both? The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH not only presents a diver’s chronograph watch, but also brings forth the beloved spectrum of colour that DOXA has become known for. The case The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH case is made of 316L stainless steel, has a diameter of 45mm and is 17.4mm thick…

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Seiko Prospex SBP183J 20.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue

A proven trend within the world of watches is for brands to reinterpret historic models within their archives for modern-day release. Seiko has revived and renewed one of their classic ’70s divers with the new Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. ⁣ The case While slightly larger than the original, the Seiko Prospex SPB183J is faithful in almost every other aspect of its design. The 42.7mm stainless steel case has a super-hard coating, making this a great candidate for daily wear. The case is mostly satin finished, with hairline bevels and polish on the outer flanks of the case.…

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18.10.2020

8 signs you’re becoming a watch snob

Watch enthusiasts do not always share the Swiss philosophy of neutrality. Being enthusiastic about something inevitably leads to hot takes, strong and stubborn opinions and, in turn, some snobbery. On the wrong day, I am definitely guilty of it myself – we’re all human after all. The reality is this niche hobby becomes less welcoming when we, as enthusiasts, dismiss others, especially when it’s already intimidating enough due to the nature of luxury products and their prices. Here are eight signs you’re becoming a watch snob. You dismiss quartz as “not luxury” In watch collecting culture, quartz has gotten a…

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NBA Champions watches 2020 17.10.2020

One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions

2020 has definitely been a chaotic year with the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic worldwide. Blockbuster films have been delayed, major music festivals cancelled, but at least one American pastime managed to go on relatively unscathed – NBA Basketball. Twenty-two teams participated in the 2020 NBA season, held within a quarantined bubble that both players and staff had to remain inside of throughout the duration of the season. At the end of an exciting series, the Los Angeles Lakers took the championship title home after their Game 6 win over the Miami Heat. While not necessarily the first question on the minds…

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16.10.2020

6 fabulous rainbow watches released in 2020, from $180 – $5000+

When you hear about rainbow watches, you are typically presented with very high-cost luxury pieces that incorporate lustrous coloured gemstones that impose a very high premium on top of already pricey precious watches. Upon closer inspection, there are actually more rainbow options than you would think – affordable options at that. Here are six fabulous rainbow watches that won’t necessarily break the bank. Timex + Todd Snyder Pride Watch Todd Snyder and Timex have teamed up to create arguably the best value proposition in rainbow watches. The Pride Watch is a nod to the time when the Gay Rights Movement adopted…

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Grand Seiko SLGH003 15.10.2020

Celebrate! The Grand Seiko SLGH003 brings the mind-bending dual impulse escapement in the 9SA5 movement to steel

Grand Seiko has been a true value proposition for collectors since its rebirth, providing some of the highest quality watches for your dollar. Many have had some contention with the inevitable reality that the brand would eventually go further upmarket, anxious that their latest and greatest technical innovations would be out of reach of the more common consumer. The next instalment in the 60th anniversary collection, the Grand Seiko SLGH003, assuages the minds and wallets of everyone who was in awe of the new 9SA5 movement, which until yesterday was only offered in a high-price precious metal model: the SLGH002.…

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Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold 14.10.2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold

Brands such as Rolex, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe have all incorporated rubber into their high-end watches, but there can only be one pioneer who got the party started. Forty years ago, Hublot founder and designer Carlo Crocco took the watch world by storm, pairing a porthole-inspired yellow gold watch with a rubber strap integrated into its case. While they were not necessarily the first watch company to take inspiration from nautical design, Hublot was the first to make rubber straps a staple in luxury wear back in 1980. Upon the release of the original Classic Fusion, it immediately caught…

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14.10.2020

8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition

At first glance, many assume that in order to get your feet wet in the horology hobby you have to shell out thousands and thousands of dollars to get a quality watch. The reality is there are plenty of more affordable options in the marketplace to elevate your wrist game, and gain the attention and respect of even the most serious collectors. Here are eight watches that get the nod from watch snobs – all under $1000. Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K Starting this list off with a bang, this has to be the most gorgeous blue dial (or…

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Grail Watch trading 10.10.2020

TRADING FACES: A Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner?

As a collection grows, at times it means a collector needs to be prepared to trade or sell one of their pieces in order to fund the next. At a certain point, many collectors adopt a ‘one in, one out’ policy in order to curb spending or keep a collection compact and refined. This is the story of one of the bigger trades I have made in my time as a collector, and how (and why) I was able to get my dream sports watch: a Rolex Submariner ref. 114060.   What I traded … Omega Speedmaster Automatic (ref. 323.30.40.40.04.001)…

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watch lug to lug 07.10.2020

Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 2

Editor’s note: As we discussed here and in Part 1 of this article, watch lug to lug is an oft misunderstood element in finding the perfect fitting watch to your wrist. Here’s why.  Ressence Type 1 Slim (42mm x 46mm) While some Ressence Type references push upwards of 52mm lug to lug, if you are looking for one of their more compact offerings, the Type 1 Slim is your best bet. At 46mm in lug to lug measurement, the 42mm case wears very well on the wrist. Its wire lugs taper the strap downward, creating an absence of unnecessary fixed…

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07.10.2020

Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 1

Yesterday, we published an explainer on why lug to lug measurement is a better fit-telling metric than case diameter. Today, we’re continuing the theme, with yet more examples, this time with a focus on big watches that are suitable for smaller wrists. At the end of the day there is no substitute for trying on a watch in the metal, but making a trip to your local AD is not always an option. Lug to lug measurement, in my opinion, is the best way to guesstimate if a watch will flatter your wrist when buying a watch online – and…

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06.10.2020

3 watches that prove the ‘lug to lug’ measurement is a more important metric for fit than case diameter

Whenever we look at a watch’s specifications online, we generally find the usual suspects – case diameter and thickness, depth rating, type of crystal, number of jewels in the movement and so on. But this information omits perhaps the most important detail; the ‘lug to lug’ measurement. Although commonly discussed within the enthusiast community, very rarely are the lug to lug measurements of a watch listed within the provided specifications from the brands.  What is lug to lug? Zach, slow down buddy, what exactly is lug to lug? For the uninitiated, the lug to lug measurement of a watch is…

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05.10.2020

Snow. My. God. The Grand Seiko SBGR319 presents a different take on the Snowflake

Editor’s pick: The Grand Seiko SBGR319 limited edition for the Asian market presents a new take on the brand’s world-renowned snow-driven aesthetics. Almost a year ago, Felix  did a video review of this incarnation of a winter-themed dial (along with a fetching red horizontally striped variant, the SBGH269) that presented a fresh new layer of snow to the brand’s Heritage Collection. Here, we dive a little deeper into the SBGR319, which remains an exceedingly tempting snow-themed option that is not THE snow-themed option that has become a legend, the Snowflake.  The case The case is a millimetre or two larger than the usual suspects…

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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Funky Blue Black Edition 03.10.2020

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition

For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute luxury brand that understands how to mix fun with haute horology. After all, this is the brand that made a watch out of Swiss cheese as well as took a direct shot/jab at the Apple Watch with its Swiss Alp watch – a clever, playful,…

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02.10.2020

Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four…

It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only readily available for most on the grey market – with commensurate premiums and markups attached. While the financially fortunate are able to succour to these higher prices, and in the process skip the enigma that is the Rolex “wait list”, most everyday consumers are left…

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Bremont U-2 Blue 27.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Bremont U-2 Blue is the fresh summer watch Australians (and the world) need right now

With Aussie summer approaching, it means beach and barbecue season has arrived – and the Bremont U-2 Blue is the perfect watch for either occasion. Whether timing a dive, or delicious food on the grill, the Bremont U-2 Blue is ready to take on summer fun in style. The case The watched is housed in a 43mm hardened stainless steel case, featuring the brand’s proprietary Trip-Tick® construction that provides added shock resistance. The Bremont U-2 Blue, being an evolution of the Martin-Baker lineup, is also built to withstand the MB ejection program. The watch also features Bremont’s patented inner bi-directional…

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Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition 26.09.2020

Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph

Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one of the fortunate buyers of the handsome bronze Hanhart that’s been dominating feeds lately. Also note that stories like these require the writer to take their own pics. The whole angle is subjective and firsthand. So, over to you Zach … Why? How? All of…

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Shinola Detrola 23.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch

Shinola is an American luxury design brand that manufactures various products – from timepieces, leather goods, jewellery, and even audio equipment. Founded in 2011, the company operates an in-house watch and leather factory based within the fifth floor of the historic Argonaut Building, where a team of artisans hand assembles timepieces and crafts premium leather straps. A year after Shinola was founded, in 2012, they transformed 12,000 square feet of raw space into their very own state-of-the-art watch factory in Detroit. Their watch teams continually participate in extensive training with their Swiss partner Ronda AG. The factory assembles between 500 and…

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Zero West 21.09.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West Spitfire S4-P9427 celebrates the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain with 80 watches

Zero West is a new British brand of boutique, heritage-inspired watches. All of their watches are designed and assembled on the South Coast of the UK (with assembly performed by a third-generation watchmaker 10 miles away from where the watches are designed). Zero West was founded by Andrew Brabyn, a designer, and Graham Collins, an ex-black ops military engineer, which explains the emphasis on designs with a military flavour. Zero West produces three lines of watches: Aviation, Marine and Automotive — all of which are limited editions. Each watch reference has a rich backstory rooted in British history. The recently released…

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Seiko Prospex Save The Oceans SRPE33K 17.09.2020

The new Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K has a scratched blue ocean dial you have to see to believe…

An automatic dive watch that brings value to both your wrist and environmental efforts, the Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean SRPE33K is the latest special edition made in honour of protecting the ocean. Across the board, Seiko is known for providing high horological value at lower price points than its Swiss peers and the “Save the Ocean” special editions are an absolute exemplar of this. They have consistently been knockout watches with some of the best blue dials for your dollar. And boy, have they truly outdone themselves with this one. The case and bracelet The case is robust, made of…

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Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties 16.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form

It cannot be refuted how much Switzerland has influenced horology and the luxury watch industry at large. As a result, designs across brands can seem familiar when they all draw from the same well of inspiration and technique. Bulgari, however, continues to stand out from the pack, blending its Swiss watchmaking know-how with its Italian mastery of design. The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties are clear examples of the fact that “high-jewellery” and “high-watchmaking” artisans can work in tandem to create pure magic for the wrist. All of these watches are true works of art from the Roman Jeweller of…

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Apple Watch Series 6 16.09.2020

The 5 best new features of the new Apple Watch Series 6, including panda dials and GMT faces

The Apple Watch has been a point of contention with watch collectors since its debut in April of 2015. When the dust settles from the rants and snobbery, one fact becomes clear – the Apple Watch is the most complicated piece of wristwear for the dollar in the entire world. The Apple Watch Series 6 and SE models are the latest smartwatches from Apple, and you are sure to see plenty of coverage on these releases across the web. So rather than recap the specs and features, let’s focus on five things that are new to the Apple Watch lineup.…

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15.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)

Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models — in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and perpetual calendar versions. And now, something a little more spicy. The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions bring a subtle, yet powerful punch of RedBar flavour to the new lineup of Highlife watches.   The case(s): The two Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions are…

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Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem 11.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem

Hublot is known around the world for their larger, bold designs. Some collections literally have the word bold in their nomenclature. While this reference does not, the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem is definitely one of their boldest designs yet – both technically and aesthetically. The case Hublot has made a huge investment in the industrialisation of sapphire – a notoriously difficult material to produce. This sapphire, or SAXEM, case is a deep green that can compete with the finest emeralds, with a brilliance that comes close to that of a diamond. SAXEM, an acronym for Sapphire Aluminium…

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Bulgari Aluminium collection 09.09.2020

HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection

Bulgari has revived a late ’90s classic with the new Bulgari Aluminium collection this year. A great blend of daily and luxury wear, these lightweight watches pack a heavy punch. While watch designs can be quite homogenous in a traditional industry, the new Bulgari Aluminium 2020 models are welcome revivals with their distinct Bulgari aesthetic. The case(s) These new models are fabricated in a great everyday material: aluminium. While aluminium is not considered a luxury material, when done right, it can provide a luxury experience on the wrist. The lightweight aluminium makes for an elegant yet sporty and smart-casual aesthetic.…

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Kurono watches 07.09.2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more

Last year, self-taught watchmaking artisan and creative genius Hajime Asaoka decided he wanted to launch a more accessible range of watches to satiate those who loved his creations but could not afford them. The bespoke watches made under Hajime Asaoka’s name start at around $40,000 USD and take a year or more to produce. Kurono Tokyo, however, is a different story. As the Kurono watches website explains, “Kurono aims to deliver to watch collectors a more accessible timepiece that shares the design DNA of Hajime’s exclusive handmade atelier watches, at affordable levels.”  To date (not including the Japanese Domestic Market references…

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A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 36mm review 06.09.2020

IN-DEPTH: My A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 36mm in yellow gold is the grail that keeps on giving

Over the past five years or so, I have bought, traded and sold watches in order to build and grow my collection. Two months ago, I was able to acquire a watch that I am still in disbelief I am able to own and wear. High on my grail list, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 221.021 was always an endgame watch for me. It was something I wanted to work towards and eventually be able to call mine. They say don’t meet your heroes, in the worry they may disappoint you once you meet them in the flesh…

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05.09.2020

Is Rolex trend-chasing with its new colourful range of Oyster Perpetual models? A look back into the brand’s colourful past…

The wild profusion of colours in the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection caught many by surprise this week. And it immediately had people drawing parallels with the colour suites of other brands. It begs the question, are these new sporty and youthful lacquer dials – in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green – a blast from Rolex’s past, or something completely new, perhaps inspired by other brands? A Brief History of Rolex Dials and Color Rolex is primarily known as a brand of modesty and incremental change, built upon robust and reliable watches. More often than not, you will…

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03.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm

Girard-Perregaux was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. The workshops origins were actually as early as 1791, but were not acquired by Girard-Perregaux completely until 1906. Though its history and heritage is in line with brands such as Patek Philippe (1839), Vacheron Constantin (1755), and Audemars Piguet (1875), Girard-Perregaux has not necessarily achieved the same brand power as the holy trinity mentioned prior. That being said, the brand has always made great watches both aesthetically and horologically — and the new Laureato Infinity Editions are a powerful…

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03.09.2020

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2

During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the hands are blued Many brands will chemically dye watch parts blue, or blue them in batches via an oven-like machine that can lack consistency. This is the reason why the craftsmen at Grand Seiko will only heat-blue the hands one hand at a time. Aside…

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02.09.2020

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 1

While Grand Seiko has more and more collectors and watch buyers on their radar, with a community of fans growing each day, there is always more to discover when it comes to this esteemed Japanese watch manufacturer. While visiting the Nature of Time Exhibition, going through each of its eight stations and speaking with staff along the way, I was continually taken aback by the facts and tidbits I was learning. While I consider myself quite knowledgeable on the brand, I discovered just how much more there was to learn about their watches and those who craft and assemble them.…

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01.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The new Rolex Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex for the first time

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is back – pairing Yellow and Everose versions with Oysterflex bracelets for the first time. Oysterflex has become a fan favorite due to its tough, sporty, and adjustable build. The complicated cosmopolitan of the Rolex catalogue with this new configuration becomes a bit more casual and approachable in terms of look and fit. The case & bezel   The two new Sky-Dweller models are, for the moment, limited to yellow and Everose gold cases with sophisticated fluted bezels that blend a sporty watch with formal wear aesthetics. At 42mm in diameter, the watches are by no…

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01.09.2020

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit”

Green is known to be a special colour for Rolex. In recent eras, to buy a new Rolex sports watch that had any parts fabricated in this particular green you would have to secure a stainless steel Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II, or yellow gold Rolex Daytona. It is usually quite rare that the “Rolex Green” makes it on to one of their steel sports models, with the Rolex Submariner “Hulk” being one of the most sought-after watches in the world – many leaving their authorised dealers empty-handed with at best a false sense they will climb…

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28.08.2020

Wrist Game: Australians in the NBA and their watches, including Kyrie Irving, Ben Simmons & Patty Mills

Since the days of the ’90s Chicago Bulls, led by the great Michael Jordan, basketball has become more and more of an international sport around the globe. Players from all over the world are recruited to play with the best of the best in the National Basketball Association (NBA). Australia is no exception; in fact some of the best players in the league today are Aussie born and bred. Not only have these athletes proven they have game on the court, but on their wrists as well. Let’s take a look at the wrist game of some of the Australians…

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Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball 26.08.2020

WATCH SPOTTING: Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball and the interesting story behind it

During the pandemic, many have used the time at home to catch up on a recommended TV series or film they may have missed in busier times, or re-watch some comforting favourites. In my seventh or eighth run-through of The West Wing television series, I almost spilled my beer in excitement when I spotted an Omega dress watch on my favourite fictional president (Bartlet 2020?). This hobby has made watch lovers increasingly aware of what actors are wearing on their wrists. Just the other week I got a message from a buddy asking me what was on Sam Neill’s wrist…

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23.08.2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Joe Biden’s watch called “the perfect foil to Trump” by GQ

Cam Wolf of GQ has made yet another great watchspot in his latest “Watches of the Week” column. Cam spots Joe Biden wearing an Omega Seamaster 300M with a black dial on his wrist during the Democratic National Convention. As Cam explains, this is not the only Omega Mr Biden owns – as he has also been spotted wearing an Omega Speedmaster and earlier generations of Seamaster divers as well. Cam takes it a step further then just naming the watch on Mr Biden’s wrist. He also compares and contrasts the wrist choices of the two men going head to head…

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22.08.2020

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27­-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael Monfils, previously an ambassador for De Bethune from 2014-2017, is a known collector of watches – having gone so far as to create a dedicated Instagram @myson.watches with some pretty tasty watch content. Nick featured it in Great ’Grams recently; check out the story if you…

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22.08.2020

The new G-Shock GMWB5000TCF-2 “Blue Camo” is available for pre-order

At the end of July, I wrote a hands-on review of my G-Shock GMWB5000TCM Titanium Camouflage. While that limited edition is likely almost sold out, anybody who may have missed out on that initial run may find a second wind in this familiar yet fresh take on the model. The GMWB5000TCF-2 is exactly the same in specifications as the previous model, super lightweight titanium, shock and scratch resistant, 200 meters water resistant, and a solar powered battery that when fully charged lasts almost two years without getting kissed with sunlight. It differs, however, in the execution of its finish. Whereas…

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beginner tips watch collecting 22.08.2020

5 mistakes I have made on my watch-collecting journey

Although I have not been collecting for decades, over the past five years or so I have definitely gained a lot of insight, through trial and error, on some best practices if one is going to go down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. As John Mayer points out in the first-ever Talking Watches with Hodinkee, the first watches (in his case, 10-12) one buys will not reflect your collecting values as you progress in the hobby, and it’s inevitable to have regrets and make mistakes along the way. Here are five lessons I’ve learned during my own watch-collecting journey…

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