Has Baume & Mercier dropped the most interesting dial of the year so far?
Zach BlassWatchmaking is an art. This is part of the appeal that mechanical timepieces have for buyers around the world, persuading them to forego more accurate or logical options such as a smartwatch or smartphone. Hardcore watch enthusiasts, when asked about the art of watchmaking, will likely steer the conversation towards movement design – their level of decorative finishes or creative technical solutions that work to improve upon traditional timekeeping. But let’s not kid ourselves, the first thing that usually draws a watch consumer in is the dial. Watch media around the world literally spent months talking about the Tiffany Patek Philippe Nautilus. Meanwhile we have also learned from brands like Grand Seiko, that it is not just about tone, but texture as well. A black dial is not necessarily eye-grabbing on paper, but the new Baume & Mercier Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” Limited Edition is an example of how less can be so much more.
The word ‘less’ actually does not do this dial justice. To clarify, black, along with white, dials are considered safe. Any collection, or wardrobe, cannot go wrong with a watch with a black or white dial. They are generally incapable of offence. So, how does a safe colour like black make a statement? Texture and nuance. Where the Baume & Mercier Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” Limited Edition sets itself apart is through its meticulously executed dial, a miniaturisation of the picture by abstract artist Pierre Soulages entitled Peinture 390 x 130 cm 17 mars 2019.
The painting
Clearly, I am by no means a professional art critic, so in this case I think it is best to refer to Baume & Mercier’s explanation of the painting’s significance: “In January 1979, the major abstract artist Pierre Soulages inaugurated a series of works at his Parisian workshop which he called Noir-Lumière,” they explain. “In 1989, the series became known as Outrenoir. The surface of each painting is coated with black paint in various states, textured into low relief with tools and brushes. Each Outrenoir painting plays on with the light that reveals its appearance to the viewer, particularly as the person moves. ‘When the light is more intensely reflected, the black appears less black, and its surface effects become more noticeable, more active,’ asserted Soulages in 2007. Soulages’ black successively appears glossy or matte.”
When you think about it, much of the way the artwork is described in Baume & Mercier’s press release is how we describe the dials that capture or gaze and intrigue the most. The term “light play” is, perhaps, overused in watch journalism. But the truth is it really is a huge component of a design, its elevation, and in turn our appreciation of it. Along with “light play”, what stood out to me in the snippet above is the idea that the painting’s appearance is directly correlated to the movement of the observer. Unlike pocket watches, wristwatches are not static in position – they are worn. Whether we wristroll to check the time, or for the ‘gram, it is a moment where various surfaces reveal their dynamic qualities (think of the light show a Royal Oak bracelet puts on as it is rotated). And to convey all of this, in a work that is primarily black in tone, is highly nuanced. From my perspective, abstract art is often contentious because some works within the category kind of make me think “couldn’t anyone have done this?”. This is where I believe the element of nuance is critical, because it is the “X factor” that distinguishes itself from seemingly ordinary or random brushstrokes that anyone could perform on a canvas. All of this considered, this painting has many qualities that make it the perfect inspiration for a watch dial.
The dial
To miniaturise such a nuanced painting, 390cm x 130cm, onto a brass canvas of mere millimetres was no easy feat. First, Baume & Mercier had to perform extensive analysis of the painting – utilising topographical scans, 3D wax printing, and other means of advanced research. Once they felt satisfied they could capture the nuanced details of the work, they proceeded to craft the dial through a multi-step process involving particular materials. Baume & Mercier explains: “For the dial, brass machined with a laser was found to suitably meet this challenge. Candia stone is used to create a diffuse matte effect, and an electroplating process is then applied to coat it with color through electrolysis to a thickness of 0.2 microns. One last coat of sheer, semi-matte protective lacquer to a thickness of 10 microns, and the piece is finished: black yet wreathed in light, filled with masterful contrasts.”
When you look at the macro above, the first word that comes to mind, at least for me, is fibrous. It is almost like looking at a sleeve of a woolly sweater under high magnification. Normally perfectly flat surfaces are a hallmark of excellent watchmaking, whether black-polished movement components or Zaratsu-finished cases. But this dial is, in my mind, perfectly imperfect – there is nothing consistently flat about it. It is clear the topography is intricately translated into the dial of the Baume & Mercier Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” Limited Edition, making it a masterclass in depth. Through its black opaline finish, varying degrees of black are conveyed. Therefore, like the painting, while it is all black it is not uniform in tone – each new lit environment and angle of perception creating something new to observe. With such a backdrop, and as a tribute to an actual work of someone else’s art, you want to distract from it is as little as possible. So I appreciate Baume & Mercier simply utilising a rosy golden tone for the dial branding and base of the triangle-tipped hours and minutes hand.
The watch
The Peinture 390 x 130 cm 17 mars 2019 may not be on display framed, but the idea of framed paintings is familiar. Therefore it makes sense the rectangular Baume & Mercier Hampton case was utilised to house this dial. While a dressy piece, smart and sharp at least in appearance, the stainless-steel watch case has a greater depth rating then you might expect – offering 50 metres of water-resistance. So, were you so inclined to do so, you could take advantage of the quick-release alligator strap and affix a more aquatic option before you safely take a surface level swim with it on your wrist. Its appearance caters well to the dial, the black PACVD treatment and sandblasted finish making it superbly stealth in nature. By effectively giving the case no opportunity to steal the show with light play of its own, the focus remains on the dial. No distractions, just art. Of course, when it comes to watches, case sizes matter – so, for your reference, it is 31mm in diameter, 9.8mm thick, and 48.11mm lug-to-lug across the wrist.
The movement
The brightest part about the Baume & Mercier Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” Limited Edition is the ETA 2892-A2 movement on display via its sapphire-exhibition caseback. A no-nonsense caliber, the tried and true performer provides 42 hours of power reserve and can be expected to keep time well. Aesthetically speaking, the ETA 2892 is by no means going to blow you away. But I appreciate that they have at least blackened the winding rotor to maintain the overall visual theme of the watch.
The verdict
Externally speaking, I cannot really deduct any points from its design. Like its muse, I feel the dial really is a work of art – one that would be really neat to strap to your wrist every day. With its incredibly dynamic and nuanced appearance, I can’t think of any other dial like it. It is amazing how much is conveyed in its typically simple black tone. So, to answer my posed question, I do stand by the claim that it is the most interesting dial of 2022 so far. The dilemma for seasoned watch buyers will be its price proportional to what is inside of the watch. At the end of the day, informed buyers believe nearly $6,000 USD is a lot to ask for an ETA 2892 powered watch. I get that. But this offering really is about the externals and front-facing elements. To have a design unlike anything else, and of a limited quantity, is appealing. And, when you consider the amount of research and effort that went into perfecting the dial, I think the price tags becomes much more digestible.
Baume & Mercier Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” Limited Edition pricing and availability:
The Baume & Mercier Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is a limited edition of 102 pieces and is available now for inquiries. Price: $5,850 USD
| Brand | Baume & Mercier |
| Model | Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” Limited Edition |
| Case Material | Black PACVD stainless steel with sandblasted finish |
| Case Dimensions | 31mm x 9.8mm x 48.11mm |
| Water-Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Black opaline 3D printed |
| Strap | Black alligator strap with quick-release and black sandblasted steel buckle |
| Movement | ETA 2892-A2 |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Complications | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | Now, limtied edition of 102 pcs. |
| Price | $5,850 USD |