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Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin talks about the importance of healthy competition, and coming out on top Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin talks about the importance of healthy competition, and coming out on top

Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin talks about the importance of healthy competition, and coming out on top

Buffy Acacia

It’s safe to say that not everyone wants a watch that is thin enough to jimmy open a locked door, but the modern generation of ultra-thin watches doesn’t really exist for the masses. You can easily dive in from a technical standpoint, and analyse how each component sheds each micron to become that slight amount thinner, but it’s almost irrelevant. What gets ignored a lot of the time, are the philosophical and business drives behind creating these pieces. That’s exactly what Andrew discussed recently with the CEO of Bulgari, Jean-Christophe Babin, about the new Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC.

The first version of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is a little bit controversial, not just for its debated-eyesore QR code linked to an NFT, but also for how quickly its claim of being the thinnest-ever watch was overturned by Richard Mille. But, according to Jean-Christophe Babin, being beaten by Richard Mille was cause for celebration. The pursuit of ultra-thin watches only makes sense when there is an active interest in exploring them, and fierce competition absolutely encourages interest from consumers.

bulgari octo finissimo ultra cosc case profile

It just so happened that Bulgari was already working towards a COSC-certified model of the OF Ultra and that its refining of the components seemed to be shedding height. Once the chase for the crown was introduced again, there was no stopping the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC from retaking it.

bulgari octo finissimo ultra cosc comparison
Comparing past and present

At just 1.70mm thick, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is currently the world’s thinnest watch. You can tell from Babin’s manner that he expects, and even hopes, that Bulgari will be beaten again. There is confidence there which may even hint that the company is working towards something even thinner yet again. Certainly, he claims that Bulgari will beat Piaget’s new 2mm Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon watch in approximately six months, which we’ll all be looking forward to. But it’s not so much the world record that seems to matter most.

bulgari octo finissimo ultra platinum dial close up
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum

To Babin, the COSC certification was a more important step for reassuring consumers that these watches are actually functional as timepieces. Whether you’re opting for the lightweight version in titanium or the heavier references in solid platinum, they’re watches that are designed to be worn daily. Bulgari has the means to create even thinner watches, but it can’t release anything that someone couldn’t theoretically wear on their wrist whenever they wanted. That said, it’s wild to think they could go even thinner…