VIDEO: The wide-ranging scope of the Franck Muller Curvex collection
Borna BošnjakFranck Muller is celebrating their 30th anniversary, and to celebrate, the brand has decided to update an icon. The Franck Muller Curvex, with its unique, domed sapphire crystal and arched case has been a signature since their inception not too long ago. Apart from a name change, the curved crystal now integrates into the bezel, tucking in underneath the crystal’s edge. The strap is now also integrated into the case, making for a seamless experience on-wrist. We got to check out two pieces from the updated Franck Muller Curvex CX collection, covering a wide spectrum of complication and price. You can check out the Cintrée Curvex CX and Grand Central Tourbillon in the video below, or read on for a quick recap of the two watches.
Top of the line
A central tourbillon is no joke of a complication. Apart from the obvious complexity in designing a tourbillon, this also meant that Franck Muller’s watchmakers had to re-work the dial and time display to accommodate for the central aperture. The standard hands are replaced by two orbiting discs, while a pointer integrated into the tourbillon cage takes care of the running seconds. The dial surface itself is rose gold with a stamped guilloché pattern and hand-applied Arabics in the classic Franck Muller style.
The Grand Central Tourbillon is by no means a subtle piece. Hewn of hand-polished, solid rose gold, the case flows around the wearer’s wrist, though, coupled with its integrated design, it wears large. It measures 36.50mm across the dial, with a lengthy 52.65mm lug-to-lug and certainly noticeable 16mm thickness. Some of that is alleviated by the curvaceous design, however.
While the Grand Central Tourbillon does feature a sapphire crystal caseback, it’s mostly a party-in-the-front affair, as much of the back is covered by large bridges and flat surfaces. That’s not to say, however, that they’re not exquisitely finished. There’s côtes de Geneve, circular graining, anglage, sunray brushing and snailling on the many alternating surfaces – our video shows them off quite well, I might add. The FM CX 36T-CTR is automatic, with a 4-day power reserve from twin barrels, beating at 18,000 vph.
Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon pricing and availability:
The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon is available now from Franck Muller. Price: A$206,200
Intricate simplicity
Without the wow-factor of a tourbillon slap bang in the middle of the dial, the Cintrée Curvex CX applies its intricate craft differently. Featuring a stamped Clous de Paris hobnail motif, spiralling along the domed surface of the dial, the ridges catch and reflect the light in a spectacular fashion. The numerals are a bold black, rising above the textured dial and giving excellent depth. Possibly a little tame given the rest of the dial, the silver finish on the sword hands tends to blend into the backdrop at many angles.
The polished surfaces of the case along with the silvered dial work beautifully, though the dimensions are identical to the Grand Central Tourbillon. The hand-polished stainless steel is a bit of a fingerprint magnet, though, so I would highly recommend a microfibre cloth at all times.
The self-winding FM 2536-SC provides a 42-hour power reserve, but is covered by a solid caseback, but is just as well-finished as its bigger sibling, with côtes de Genève, chamfering and soleil papier brushing on the bridges and the rotor, circular graining on the two sides of the main plate. The engravings are finished in 24k gold, with more highlights from the blued, polished screws and soleil papier brushing on the barrel and 45° brushing of the ratchet.
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex CX pricing and availability:
The Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex CX is available now from Franck Muller. Price: A$17,400