VIDEO: Cartier plays their greatest hits album along with a few new surprises…

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The Cartier Tank really needs no introduction, it is one of the few pieces that truly deserves icon status. But this year’s novelties from the Parisian powerhouse served up some worthy pieces that continue Cartier’s hot streak over the last couple of years. New additions to the Must and Pasha collections got Zach and Ricardo clamouring for more. Check out the video and below for the boys’ first hands-on impressions of the new 2022 releases.

Pasha De Cartier Grille

Rumours of the grille-case returning to the Pasha De Cartier range have been circling and shot down for quite a while now, with some fans believing that the strange look was far too much of a 1980s experimental remnant to find its way into a modernised and glamorised Pasha line. However, Cartier have proven yet again that there is nothing too esoteric for their designs and that strangeness often equals attraction. The grille can be removed for a cleaner look or left on as intended, however, there’s a certain irony in the 18k gold “protective” grille being much easier to scratch than the sapphire crystal beneath it. You can also now buy charms that attach to the canteen crown, adding another layer of jewellery to the watch.

Tank Louis Cartier

The Tank Louis Cartier brings some detail back into the dials with a satisfyingly simple geometric pattern that segments the dial into different shades of either wine red or anthracite grey, creating a dazzlingly three-dimensional effect as the watch moves through light. The Roman numerals at the quarters aren’t there to help tell the time, but merely to honour the watch’s classical roots since its inception over a century ago. Both models are in 18k gold cases and follow the “large” dimensions of 25.5mm wide and 33.7mm long, as well as the 6.6mm thickness using the Cartier 1917 MC calibre.

Cartier Prive Tank Chinoise

Cariter’s Privé line can be thought of like an annual event, showcasing their watchmaking prowess through the lens of a specific watch and a unique theme, then released in extremely limited quantities. This year, the 100th anniversary of the Tank Chinoise is being celebrated through the release of six references with varying degrees of complexity. The Chinoise gets its name from the inspiration of Chinese architecture and cultural influences, the former being particularly appropriate to marry with the rectangular-cased watch.

The separation between the horizontal and vertical blocks is evocative of Chinese temples and porticos, and these aspects of the case are best appreciated on the first three references that carry traditional gold or silver Tank dials and use the calibre 430 MC movement. The polished horizontal and brushed vertical aspects of the case give it a lot more depth than the typical unified shape, and lets you appreciate the lustre of the gold or platinum to the maximum.

Masse Mystérieuse

It wouldn’t be a year of Cartier releases without something out of the box, but the new Cartier Masse Mystérieuse is far beyond expectations for the Parisian fashion house. Watchmaking has had a long-running tradition of presenting what seems like magic on a watch dial, whether it be from floating hands or minuscule automatons, but Cartier have now managed to contain an entire watch movement within it’s own automatic winding rotor.

The calibre 9801 MC is a result of eight years of research, and also has the same effect as a tourbillon complication by reducing the effects of gravity on the timekeeping. The case is 43.5mm in diameter and is constructed out of 95% pure platinum, as demarcated by the ruby cabochon in the crown as opposed to the sapphire used with their steel models. It’s only available in a limited run of 30 pieces, so if you want one, you’d be better be quick.