The three watches Buffy wore most in 2023 – Seiko, Seiko, and Seiko

Fergus Nash

Back at the end of January, I snagged one of the best watch bargains I’ve ever had with four Seikos for A$44 on eBay. All ranging between the years 1979-1981, there was one particular model which caught my eye. A clear homage to the Cartier Tank from 1980 was the star of the lot, but I found myself struck by everything that I took out of the package. I haven’t worn the mechanical pendant watch yet because I haven’t gotten around to buying a gold chain, but all three of the wristwatches have ended up as my most worn of 2023.

Seiko 1320-5490

From the photos in the eBay listing, I paid the least attention to this watch. The dial disappeared into nothingness, the bracelet looked frankly ugly, and I was pretty sure that it wouldn’t even fit me. The plan was that I’d buy the listing for the Tank homage, and sell the rest at the first opportunity. However, once I got the silver watch in front of my eyes, I realised that it was actually the best of the bunch.

The bracelet links are made of an elaborate vine-like pattern, which does repeat but looks as if it organically transitions across the whole thing. It’s almost like a mix between Celtic knots and Art Nouveau, which is complimented by a crosshatched texture on the case. The dial is equally gorgeous, with a frosted silver finish that’s not far off what you could expect from a Grand Seiko. To top it all off, the condition is immaculate and the bracelet fits me perfectly without adjustment. It’s become the watch which I gravitate towards before leaving the house, as its elfish charm and stainless steel colouring tends to work well with my clothing. If I had to buy it again for $100, I would.

Seiko 2320-6350

Seiko have never been very secretive about the watches which they take influence from, and although their collection overhaul in the last few years has seen them stop producing homages, vintage Seikos are a treasure trove of attractive and high-quality references. This quartz-powered watch is clearly a nod to the Cartier Tank, from its rectangular silhouette to its Roman numeral sector dial. This was the watch which drew me to the listing, and even though I technically gifted it to my partner, I borrow it back on certain occasions.

It’s impossible to find a flaw in the design of this watch, but then again it’s been a staple of Cartier’s catalogue for decades for over a century for good reason. The gold-plated sides of the case give it that little bit of flashy sophistication, while the black tip of the crown nearly emulates the effect of a sapphire cabochon. It’s 21mm in diameter with a 27mm lug-to-lug, giving it vintage proportionality which I’ve always preferred. It shows some signs of its 43-year-old age with small scratches here and there, but ultimately it still looks phenomenal.

Seiko 1100-5350

There’s no doubt that this watch was made in 1979 with its abundance of polished gold swagger, but it has more than a hint of Art Deco about its rectangular case and minimalist dial. This is the one watch of the bunch which doesn’t actually work, and because it doesn’t really make financial sense to service it I’ve simply been wearing it as a decorative accessory when I’m in the mood for gold.

The polished bangle bracelet is almost hypnotic, and the watch actually does a great job of flowing in its design. The bracelet has a step in the centre which flanges down towards the edges, and the case follows a similar curvature as does the acrylic crystal. That faceted crystal leads to some mesmerising distortions of the dial, which is vertically brushed and quite elegant. The black applied indices at the quarters pair nicely with the black baton hands, and the simplistic Seiko logo feels full of pride. Someday I might get it running again, but as is it’s perfect for wearing once in a blue moon.