The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon brings the cool in a deep, jazzy blue
D.C. Hannay- The latest iteration of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Moon evokes the cool of classic jazz, with its gradient dial in midnight blue.
- The in-house, automatic movement is under 5mm thin, while providing a surprising 70-hour power reserve.
- A pink gold case and dial details bring a rich, warm counterpoint to the chilled-out dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is most famous for their iconic Reverso, which splits the difference between sporty and elegant with their case-flipping party piece, wrapped in a refined package. But JLC are no one-trick pony, known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, the brand has long been revered for their movement-making prowess. Many prestigious Swiss names have a hidden JLC caliber as their beating heart. Jaeger-LeCoultre is much more than the Reverso, however. The Master Ultra Thin line of dress watches bring some of the most graceful designs in watchmaking to complicated pieces, and their fantastically balanced Moon model now sports a lovely blue gradient dial in a pink gold case.
Not strictly a dress watch, the 39 mm case size is the ideal size to dress up or down. The polished 18k pink gold case positively glows, with a comfortable, confident presence that’s all soft, sweeping curves. Everything feels ‘of a piece’, from the crown that’s neither too slight or too bulky, to the barely noticeable correction pushers at four and eight. The profile maintains a lovely proportion to the diameter, at a svelte 9.3 mm, and water resistance is listed at 50 metres.
While some Master Ultra Thin dials are a bit more restrained, there’s nothing austere about this rich midnight blue. It oozes sensuality from an already-sexy case, with a colourway that fades from near-black at the edges to a rich sunray blue at the centre. The dial is beautifully balanced, with an applied logo and printed wordmark below twelve, and the moon phase and calendar display above six. The level of detailing is fantastic, just what you’d expect from JLC, but there’s nothing overly busy or shouty afoot.
The rest of the pink gold dial furniture is applied, from the faceted triangular hour indices, to the diminutive minute dots, all 46 of them. A faceted dauphine handset plays gracefully with the hour markers as they meet. The overall effect possesses a jazzy verve, with the noir vibe of the blue riffing harmoniously with the warm gold, evoking visions of a muted trumpet echoing from a downtown nightclub.
JLC’s movements are among the loveliest you’ll find, and the automatic Calibre 925 does not disappoint. Sporting 30 jewels, a beat rate of 28,800vph, and a healthy 70 hours of power reserve, it’s an accomplished performer, but the decoration is quite something, and it rivals just about anything at the price from the big box brands. You’ll find engine turning and Geneva striping throughout, even on the skeletonised gold rotor that features the JLC logo. Blued screws and gold-filled engraving can also be spied through the sapphire caseback.
A lined alligator leather strap in deep blue complements the dial’s tones, measuring 21 mm between the lugs. It’s an odd size, yes, but proportional to the case’s dimensions. An 18k pink gold pin buckle completes the package.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon pricing and availability
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon is available now. Price: A$37,000, US$23,000
| Brand | Jaeger-LeCoultre |
| Model | Master Ultra Thin Moon |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 9.3mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18K pink gold |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Sunray gradient midnight blue |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Strap | Blue alligator |
| Movement | Automatic Calibre 925 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase, date |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | AU$37,000/US$23,000 |