Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold

Fergus Nash

Some would suggest that the perfect dress watch has a long list of criteria. Less than 40mm, no complications, made from a precious metal, thin, etc. Although this framework is a good recipe, there should definitely be room for bending the rules, and the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold is a sure contender for the perfect modern dress watch, bending the complications rule in a breathtaking way.

The dial

Even though there’s nothing particularly revolutionary about the dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre have a way of perfecting the simple details. The balance is intoxicating, for example the dotted minute markers where batons may have taken up too much visual real estate. The thin bezel means that the dial itself is larger than you may expect for a 39mm, increasing its wrist presence without sacrificing fit or comfort. The “eggshell beige” colour blends well with the pink gold, which has just enough yellow in it to not be riding the rose-gold popularity wave.

   

Although the complications add moon phase and date functionality, it’s hard to even call them complications given how simply they’re executed. They do serve their purpose beautifully from a technical point of view, in my eyes, their first priority is eye candy. The pointer date display forms a neat ring just below the centre pinion and above the shrunken index at 6 o’clock, meaning that nothing is truncated or cut off. Within the ring shows the endearing moon-phase display, with deep midnight blue enamel interrupted by the meticulously polished dots of pink-gold stars, and the matching shiny moon. The blue of the night sky is mirrored in the central seconds hand, which is blued and nicely ensures that the warm tones of the dial and case aren’t overbearing as it sweeps around the watch.

The case

Not beating around the bush, the case is basically perfect, with a 39mm diameter and a lug to lug of under 46mm to fit on almost any wrist with grace. Of course, it wouldn’t be called ultra-thin if it wasn’t so, and while the 9.3mm thickness isn’t ridiculously thin like we’re used to seeing from the likes of Bulgari and Piaget, it appears even slimmer thanks to the vintage-style case profile, where the mid-case section is made slender so that the slight bulk of the display caseback is hidden. That said, the watch’s smooth bevels and overall thinness won’t struggle to slide under a cuff.

The movement

Through the sapphire caseback, you can see the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 925AA, with tastefully lavish striped decoration across the skeletonised winding rotor and the movement itself. When held vertically, the pattern on the rotor aligns with the plates for a very satisfying effect. Technically it’s got some impressive specs too, even ignoring the pointer date and moon phase complications. The power reserve is 70 hours, but there’s only one mainspring barrel and the frequency remains at 28,800 vibrations per hour for a smooth Swiss sweep. Little touches like that make the watch even more wearable, and should be ready for you to buckle on every weekday if you so choose.

The verdict

At $29,800AUD, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in pink gold is certainly a watch that holds an air of aspiration. While it is a precious metal, it’s easy to imagine wanting to wear this every day, to borrow that sense of achievement that JLC themselves carry from creating such an outstanding watch. In regards to its versatility, it’s got a lot more going for it than most solid gold watches. For starters, the water resistance is 50m. You wouldn’t want to take it swimming, especially not on the gorgeous chocolate-leather strap that elevates the warmth of the watch, but you don’t need to hold your wrist under your jacket if you get stuck in some sudden downpour. The benefits of simplicity done well are that you can pair the watch with pretty much any outfit, where it blends in seamlessly in fancy dress, and elevates casual wear to an unexpected level.

For more information on these pieces go to Jeeger-LeCoultre or book an appointment at their Virtual Boutique here.

Made in partnership with Jaeger-LeCoultre. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.