VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms

Fergus Nash

In the 1960s, Zenith developed the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs, and new possibilities. Now watch buyers increasingly seem to appreciate tradition, vintage reissues and smaller sizes. The Zenith Chronomaster Original offers both progress and nostalgia in spades with a faithful recreation of the first Zenith A386 in a handsome 38 millimetre diameter and the modern generation of the Hi-Beat El Primero movement.

The Chronomaster collection offers three variants of this original design. The ever loved white dial available on the stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold carries tri-tone subdials that seem to give the dial more space as they’re distinguished. The third variant is a gloriously warm reverse panda affair with a slightly off-white array of subdials that harmoniously compliment the parchment shade of faux aged luminous plate. Overall, the dial layout is just perfectly balanced. The elongated numerals around the chapter rings and the markers are crisp with just the right amount of complexity, the colour-matched window isn’t obtrusive so the symmetry isn’t disturbed and the Zenith logo is tastefully sized with the El Primero script.

Speaking of the El Primero, the latest generation of the tenths-measuring chronograph is both capable and gorgeous. It’s as technically impressive as it ever was with its 36,000 vibrations per hour beat rate, 60 hour power reserve, 35 jewels and, of course, that vibrantly blued colour wheel. The great amount of the movement can be seen through the skeletonized winding rotor decorated with the Zenith star showing off a variety of attractive surface-finishing techniques. The colour wheel gives the chronograph a satisfying click when engaged, enhancing the experience of using the movement as intended.

It’s also worth talking about the case of the A386 as well, because it’s not just special for being a medium size. It’s true that 38 millimetres is a little smaller than we’re used to these days with manufacturers pumping out  endless chronographs and divers that treat 42 millimeters as a sweet spot, but there’s so much more involved than just case diameter. The lugs are well shaped, emboldening the curves of the case by angling down and forming a rather aggressive tilt before meeting the strap, as well as helping the watch conform to the shape of a wrist of any size. But the presence of the watch is in no way diminished its mix of finishes with quite a harsh sunburst brushing of the lugs and the smooth polished thin bezel creates a wonderful contrast of textures that helps each individual element pop. Once on wrist, the Chronomaster Original carries itself with Goldilocks of proportions.