The Time+Tide team share 3 watches they are each circling right now
Time+TideIf you ask a watch enthusiast, one of the most exciting parts of the hobby is not actually wearing watches. The real excitement stems from circling a watch, considering whether you really want it and, ultimately, hunting it down. Sometimes that journey is far more rewarding than the destination and, as many have expressed, we often get a rush of serotonin during the chase, only to experience a post-retail comedown afterwards. Essentially, we’re like addicts jonesing for their next fix.
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So, the T+T team wanted to share the watches we ourselves are currently mulling over – the three watches that we’re each stalking and hunting at this very moment. Who knows which ones will eventually end up on our wrists, but we’ll certainly keep you posted.
D.C.’s picks: Zodiac, Pelton, Tissot
Like many of you, I’m always on the hunt, but since you asked, these three are my prey du jour. First off is a modern dive watch with vintage vibes, because although I love the relics, I need something I can actually wear. For me, Zodiac is doing it better than just about anyone today, and at some really attractive price points. Sure, I’d love a Super Sea Wolf in every colour, but honestly, the orange-accented navy blue-dialled version has always been my pick. Apart from going with a straight-up black-and-white variant, I think it’s the most versatile, and navy and orange is a classic combo. And for the price (including bracelet!), it’s tough to beat a spec sheet that includes a pseudo-in-house Swiss movement.
Next up is Tissot’s reboot of the funky Sideral (told you I love retro), going for the red variant. It’s a bit less in-your-face than the yellow or blue versions, and it’ll pair with a broader selection of straps. I’m fascinated with oddball watches and equally oddball case materials like carbon, so it’s a bit of a no-brainer for me. And a 300-metre, ‘70s-look yacht watch pairs well with my ‘70s yacht-rock obsession.
Lastly, a bit of an enigma that I can’t seem to track down, the US-built, integrated Pelton Perseus with the dark grey sunburst dial. They might as well call it the Pelton Unicorn, because I can’t actually find one for sale – and it has such a cool story. A young manufacturer of audio equipment, Detroit’s Deni Mesanovic, decided to take his love for watches to the next level and build his own, but doing it the hard way by CNC machining the entire case and bracelet himself, and then finishing the whole thing by hand. Watch the videos on the site, it’s a zen-like experience. The watch uses a top-grade ETA 2824-2 movement, along with a Swiss dial and handset, but the Genta-inspired case and bracelet are, in a word, stunning, especially from someone who’s not a watchmaker by trade. They’re no longer in production (the $3k list price was probably unsustainable, considering the amount of handwork involved), but that hasn’t deterred my hunt.
Borna’s picks: Must de Cartier, Rolex, Seiko
With my late-night perusing of strange auction sites, it was difficult to pick just three, but I’ve somehow managed. The first is a past regret – a lapis-dialled Cartier Tank. It must be manually wound, but the real kicker is in the case material. There are plenty of Tank Musts around with vermeil cases and lapis-like dials, but it seems that there was a 9k solid gold variant made. I missed one a few years ago, and have never found another. Next is a Rolex Explorer, a watch I’ve been lusting for ever since my watch obsession began. The final goal is a gilt-dialled 1016, but for now I’m gunning for a birth year 14270 – hopefully it’ll be so good that I’ll stop caring for a 1016 – though I think both you, dear reader, and I know that’s wishful thinking. The third is the real enigma, and being aware of my budget, it’s likely that it’ll be a vintage Seiko of some sort – a 57GS-cased Grand Seiko would be lovely.
Zach’s picks: Tudor, Grand Seiko, Breguet
After recently trading my way up to my new Piaget Altiplano 900P, I am at a crossroads where I have to hit pause on personal watch hunting. I have no fiscal bullets left in the expendable cash chamber. A bittersweet watch-collector nirvana, right now I have everything I want and can feasibly own. So, to bring anything else in would require something else to leave – and what I could ultimately leverage right now for big moves and trades I have no desire to part with. That being said, I would be lying if I said I do not still trawl through listings online, and as a professional hazard I am always staying in tune with the latest new releases. So, my three picks are watches that, had I moved differently in my collecting, could have very well been in my collection. They all have, certainly at one point, been set in my sights.
After parting with my Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 in order to get my Explorer ref. 1016, there has been a hole in having a Submariner-style dive watch in my collection. When the Tudor Black Bay 54 was announced, it was definitely clear that it would be the best option to bring some semblance of a Sub back. And, not only a Semblance, but a watch that is probably a better fit for me to begin with. Its 37mm case size is perfect for my wrist, and with the introduction of a T-fit clasp into the bracelet it affords me the micro-adjustment that was sorely missing from the BB58 when I owned one. Also, considering the Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 Sean Connery wore is my grail-Sub, the Tudor BB54 is that much more alluring for me.
Next up, the Grand Seiko SLGH013, upon its introduction, was a watch I wish had been released sooner. At this point, I would say I am blued out. I have a blue dial Rolex Datejust 36, a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition, and a Ming 17.03 Anniversary GMT. So, I cannot really justify more blue in my watch box. While its icy blue dial is definitely stunning, what really got my attention with the SLGH013 is the placement of the 9SA5 hi-beat dual impulse calibre inside of a 44GS case rather than an Evolution 9 case. It was the first to do so in standard production, and immediately had me drooling.
Lastly, the Breguet Tradition ref. 7027 is the watch to buy at the moment if you can. Criminally underpriced on the secondary market, I have seen listings hovering between US$10K and US$14K when its retail would be two to three times as much. Honestly, had I not found the right Piaget 900P listing at WatchBox, with whom I traded my Kuronos to to fund the purchase, the ref. 7027 was initially my game plan. The Tradition ref. 7027 catches my eye of course due to the beautiful true-guilloche sub dial, its Empire-style fluted case, and the clear view of the movement done true to Abraham Louis Breguet form. What really pushes the needle forward, however, is its 37mm diameter. And, 36mm/37mm is a great sweet spot for me (and I imagine many of you who also like classic sizing or proudly rep the tiny wrist gang).
Fergus’ picks: Hamilton, Cartier, Vario
I’ve bought and sold my fair share of watches in the last five or so years that I’ve been into the hobby, but none of them have stuck with me as much as the Cartier Pasha 1033 which I sold in 2021. It was such a charming and quirky watch that hit so many of my favourite niches, and the Cartier Tank Basculante which I’d sold the Pasha to fund also wound up on the chopping block mere months later. It’s the only watch I truly regret selling, and I’m fearful I may never get the chance to buy one back. As for the other two watches on my list, I’ve been eyeing up the American Classic Lady Hamilton and the Vario Versa for some time, which I recently included in my list of affordable watches for 5 kinds of goths.
Luke’s picks:
I actually tried this Omega Railmaster on last week for the first time and the experience did little to dampen my enthusiasm. I’m after a sturdy daily wearer and this piece offers great functionality with 150m water resistance and 15,000 Gauss of magnetic resistance plus a great Master Chronometer movement. Aesthetically, the dial’s brushed metal base is really distinctive and I like the quietly understated retro look. I’d also love a watch with a salmon-coloured dial, and the Fears Brunswick Salmon is a piece I keep returning to. I dig the 38mm cushion case, quirky hand-set and the texture of that vertically brushed dial. Finally, I’m also on the lookout for a fun, summer watch and the pistachio bezel of this Zodiac Super Sea Wolf exudes definite holiday vibes.