The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year
Borna Bošnjak- The Christopher Ward Bel Canto is the brand’s first take on a chiming complication
- Achieved with the help of a base Sellita SW200 and an in-house chiming module
- At its staggering price point, this may already be the bargain of the year
The first modern microbrand shook enthusiast circles recently with their take on a high-end complication – the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. Using a modular Sellita base and modifying an existing in-house jumping hour module, the British brand deliver a value-packed punch with their first sonnerie au passage complication. Staying on-brand, it’s surprisingly affordable, and with a little help from their friends, finished to an unexpected degree as well. Finally, fear not! While the initial run sold out in only a few hours, the brand has already made plans to turn the Bel Canto into a regular production model.
About Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward began operation nearly two decades ago, in a “converted chicken shed on a farm in Berkshire”, by the trio of Chris Ward, Mike France and Peter Ellis. Releasing C3 and C5, powered by a Ronda quartz chronograph calibre and ETA 2824, respectively, they gained traction via watch forums, as their business model was unheard of at the time. Namely, Christopher Ward was the very first entry-level luxury watch brand that sold their offering only online – essentially, they’re the microbrand grandaddies.
By 2008, they began working with Synergies Horlogères of Biel, owned by Jörg Bader, eventually merging with them in . This relationship proved to be among the most influential, as it led to the creation of numerous JJ calibres, named after master watchmaker Johannes Jahnke. Their construction used Sellita and ETA bases modified to accept all sorts of modules, including a monopusher chronograph, moonphase and jump hour. It is this jumping hour calibre that eventually inspired watchmaker Frank Stelzer to attempt to create the hero of today’s story.
Modern sonnerie au passage
To summarise the Bel Canto in as few words as possible, it’s a watch featuring a sonnerie au passage complication based on the inner workings of a jumping hour mechanism. The reality, of course, is never so simple. The FS01 calibre, named after its creator, Frank Stelzer, uses a lever contacting a snail cam, which falls at the drop of the hour, striking a sound spring and noting the hour’s passing. In a jumping hour, the lever would contact a star wheel in the centre, incrementing the jumping hour disc by one. This re-imagination of the JJ01 jump hour movement required 50 new components, but also posed a considerable design challenge.
While the name Christopher Ward is an established one, it mostly doesn’t resonate with enthusiasts as one renowned for complication mastery, despite their track record proving them to be more than capable. Instead, the brand’s bread and butter have been affordable, quality, sporty watches like the Trident line-up of divers and explorer-style Sealander. The Bel Canto breaks that one-dimensional perception, but also expands on the price point that Christopher Ward has persisted with thus far.
So, what exactly do you get for your money? Cased in 41mm of grade 5 titanium, the muted tones of the metal let the dials shine. With exposed striking works and three-dimensional bridges holding up the asymmetrically arranged components, the Bel Canto is very handsome. Personally, I was immediately reminded of the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance (costing a cool CHF 380,000, for reference). Maybe that’s not so surprising, considering the avant-garde independent was one of the manufacturing partners on this project, making the platine of the Bel Canto. Had you thought MB&F, you wouldn’t be too far from the truth either, as the dial-side elements, complete with fine graining and anglage, were produced by Chronode – this is the team largely responsible for the marvel that is the Legacy Machine 1.
You’ll notice that Christopher Ward opted to include a dial, despite exposing much of the mechanical elements. This was a clever move on their part, as it allowed the brand to focus on the finishing of only the most essential of components, doing so to a high degree, while the base calibre and its components can rest under the dial in their less-decorated glory. As far as the specifications and operation of the FS01 movement go, the wearer isn’t able to make the piece chime by request. Instead, if you’re overly keen on hearing your Bel Canto sing, you’ll have to manually advance the hours via the crown, and the striking mechanism will faithfully oblige on every full turn of the hour hand. The hammer charges up, cocking back and away from the gong, as if powering up its finishing move in a superhero cartoon.
The wearer can silence the chimes using the button at 5 o’clock, however, as shown by the small beak-like indicator. In fact, if you look closely, from the beak to the tail-shaped gong, the entire striking assembly looks like a bird. Quite poetic, if you ask me. As it is based on a Sellita 200, it retains its 38-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate. Considering the niche that the Bel Canto chose to develop towards, however, I assume those numbers will be largely inconsequential to eventual buyers.
The importance of looks (and availability)
I hear ya. Another edition of The Independedit, and another cool take on a complication from an unexpected brand, at an unattainable price point and limited in numbers. Not so fast, dear reader. Where the true magic of the Bel Canto comes to light is that you can purchase this incredible piece for the same price as a Black Bay 58, or less, should you opt out of the titanium bracelet. Not only that, it is also not a limited edition, with deliveries now expected around December 2023. Considering the incredible demand and high complexity, that’s an impressive feat.
What surprised me, however, is to learn that Meistersinger beat Christopher Ward to the punch on this one. Utilising an identical movement, but adapting it to suit the recognisable Meistersinger styling, the brand released the Bell Hora nearly two years ago. While it did capture some attention, it enjoyed nowhere near the fanfare of the Bel Canto, and there’s certainly a good reason for it. While the Meistersinger is by no means an unpleasingly designed watch, it doesn’t stand out from their catalogue enough, and its niche one-handed appeal is sure to turn off some. The Bel Canto, on the other hand (pun intended), looks remarkable. While a closer look will reveal some of the decisions that had to be made to reach the attainable price point, at first glance it reminded me of a high-end independent – especially the aforementioned Armin Strom. For A$5,000, it’s definitely a good thing.
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto pricing and availability:
The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto is available for pre-orders now, with a deposit of A$1,700 required for December 2023 deliveries. Full price: A$4,995 (leather strap), A$5,495 (titanium bracelet)
| Brand | Christopher Ward |
| Model | C1 Bel Canto |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 13mm (H) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 3 ATM |
| Dial | Sunburst black, purple, sky blue, and salmon |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Strap | Choice of titanium bracelet or variety of leather strap colours |
| Movement | FS01, Sellita base with sonnerie au passage module developed in-house |
| Power reserve | 38-hour power reserve |
| Functions | Sonnerie au passage, hours and minutes |
| Availability | Deposits taken now, currently scheduled for December 2023 delivery |
| Price | A$5,495 (titanium bracelet), A$4,995 (leather strap) |