INTRODUCING: The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire

The story in a second:

Introducing a new Tank model isn’t easy – Cartier have to successfully balance the century old history of the watch with the need to look to the future. They got that balance right on this one.

The Cartier Tank, like all iconic designs, has to deal with the tricky dichotomy of being ubiquitous and exceptional at the same time. Exceptional because the essential design is almost 100 years old, meaning the watch transcends trends. But paradoxically it is precisely this exceptional history that makes the watch ubiquitous – there are a lot of Tanks out there on peoples wrists.

Because of this Cartier faces some unique challenges and constraints when they create a new Tank model. They must marry the historical pedigree of the Tank case with the requirement that they present something ‘new’. Traditionally this has been done with playing slightly with the form – elongating the case for the Tank Cintrée, widening the flanks for the Tank Anglaise or squaring off the edges for the Tank Normale. The Tank we’re looking at today is the most classic and traditional of the Tank shapes – the Tank Louis Cartier – worn by the man himself and recognisable thanks to the softly rounded lugs. For this watch the novelty comes not from the case but from what’s inside – or more accurately what isn’t inside.

The Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire is an excellent example of why Cartier are the masters of the modern skeleton. Looking at this watch, with its lack of a dial, or anything to attach the movement to the case except the crown stem and your immediately wonderstruck. Usually Cartier use their iconic Roman numerals in their skeletons – the numerals forming an integral part of the architecture of the watch, anchoring the movement to the case. But here, with the Skeleton Sapphire they take it to the next level. The movement is in fact mounted onto a sapphire mainplate, which invisibly encircles the pleasantly round bridges and gears of the Calibre 9622 movement. This sapphire plate is in turn attached to the case with the help of a silent block polymer shock absorption system. Clever stuff Cartier.

So, somewhat disappointingly the Skeleton Sapphire is not the product of arcane magic, but rather ingenious engineering. The greatest thing about this watch is that there is nothing, absolutely nothing to distract from the beauty of the pared back mechanics – even the pink gold case only serves to frame and amplify the beautiful movement.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire Australian pricing

The Louis Cartier Skeleton sapphire in 18K pink gold has an RRP of $63,500.