Time and Tide Watches

Australian Watch Authority

Felix Scholz
Editor
Felix Scholz
Felix has been writing about watches for over nine years, having written for Hodinkee and Revolution before becoming the editor of Time+Tide. Aside from the ingenuity of mechanical watches as complex and beautiful machines, Felix is most interested in watches as objects of culture and style. Felix believes there’s just as much merit in an exquisitely hand-finished tourbillon as there is in a beaten-up dive watch, or diamond-set fashion piece. He’s interested in what draws people to watches, and how people express their style through their wrists.

Posts by Felix:

24.03.2019

LIST: 6 Seikos you need to know from Basel 2019 

You can get a pretty good sense of the overarching themes of Baselworld by listening to the chatter in the halls, press centre and even the sausage cart outside. And, along with smaller crowd sizes and uncertain futures, one of the main conversational themes was the size of brand collections. In press conferences, words like ‘focused’ and ‘consolidated’ abounded. In short, brands weren’t releasing many watches.  One exception was Seiko. The Japanese powerhouse has so many lines (though to be fair these are becoming increasingly codified and coherent) and plenty to choose from, so much so that I had a…

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23.03.2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Diver’s Re-creation Limited Edition SLA033

Seiko’s archive is full of exceptional and much-loved dive watches. One of the brightest lights in this pantheon is the 6105, a real workhorse of the 1970s, and a distinctive one at that — thanks to its large, cushiony case and a crown at four. And while the visuals of the watch certainly didn’t hurt, it’s the combination of good (for the time) water resistance of 150m, Seiko’s reliable build quality and a non-prohibitive price that made this watch such a hit — especially with American soldiers in Vietnam. It’s in this context that the watch received its most famous…

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23.03.2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia

Bronze — that gold-toned alloy that only gets better with age — has continued its domination of the watch world, and the latest brand to be converted is TAG Heuer, who this week released two bronze versions of their brand new three-handed Autavia.  Structurally, it’s the same as the steel Autavias — 42mm across, powered by a Calibre 5 movement running the impressive new Isograph spring, and worn with straps that utilise a smart new quick-change system. But on the aesthetic front, the warm metal, shiny ceramic bezel, smoky green dial, and aged ivory luminous material create a compelling synergy that’s exemplary…

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23.03.2019

VIDEO: This is what Tudor’s 3 top 2019 releases look like on the wrist

It’s testament to the power and ongoing evolution of Tudor’s blue-chip Black Bay family that our top three picks from Baselworld 2019 are all Black Bays, and also — from a distance at least — look very different indeed.  Without a doubt, the most discussed and most genuinely novel watch of the bunch (and perhaps of the whole fair) is the Black Bay P01. While the dial bears a lot of the hallmarks of the Black Bay, the case is Something. Else. Entirely. Long, with a blocky crown guard at four, and a steel bi-directional 12-hour bezel that’s held in place…

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22.03.2019

VIDEO: The 3 new Rolex releases that had everyone talking at Baselworld 2019 

In the weeks and days leading up to Basel, the tension, speculation and near-hysteria around Rolex’s impending releases is palpable, and this year was no different. And while the popular predictions in the lead-up to Baselworld 2019 were the usual mix of near misses and safe guesses, that didn’t stop the Rolex watches — especially the sports watches — from being the most talked-about pieces of the fair.  The Yacht-Master on Oysterflex has, since its debut in 2015, been one of the most distinctively modern models, with its matt cerachrom bezel and understated bracelet. This year saw two significant changes…

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22.03.2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer’s latest releases from Baselworld 2019

TAG Heuer’s Basel 2019 collection had a particularly clear focus, and that focus was Autavia. It’s a watch inspired by TAG Heuer’s enviable heritage — Autavia is a combination of automotive and aviation, and dates back to when Heuer was making cockpit timers in the 1930s. This latest version is a clear nod to the past, without being a fully blown reissue. It’s got details to boot too, like Arabic numerals made from solid blocks of luminous material, a series in subtle rich colours that, thanks to their texture and airbrushed finish, are eye-catching and interesting. The insides are also notable,…

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21.03.2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 – thinner, dressier

Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 and, boy, does the Spring Drive — that unique trifecta of electronic, kinetic and magnetic energy — feature strongly. But not just the Spring Drives you know and love, with that arching power reserve at eight. No, in honour of the movement’s 20th anniversary, there are new manually wound versions, including this super-slender, refined and dressy option. Shown here in steel, it’s known as SBGY003 This is a Grand Seiko like you’ve never seen before. First, the case is so well-sized — 38.5mm across by 10.2mm thick is elegant, restrained…

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21.03.2019

VIDEO: Our pick of the best Grand Seiko watches of 2019, fresh from Baselworld 

There’s a unifying theme to Grand Seiko’s 2019 collection – and no, it’s not the exquisite dials or case work, though those are all very much in evidence. No, this year it’s all about the mighty Spring Drive, a movement (which we’ve explained here) that is unique to Grand Seiko, and appropriately enough, 20 years old.  There’s a new take on the most complicated Spring Drive of all,  the 9R96, with a GMT and Chronograph. This year we see it like never before — in a watch that’s a suitably plus-sized tribute to Japan’s most famous monster, Godzilla. The SBGC231G…

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21.03.2019

VIDEO: Seiko has just announced the Prospex LX collection – these are the watches and what you need to know about them

Prospex is Seiko-speak for “Professional Specification”, a family of professionally oriented tool-watches that was born in 1968 and built to last. And, Seiko being Seiko, that build quality is legendary. As such, these watches have attracted a cult following, in both the actual and desk-diving fraternities. Now, at their press conference at Baselworld 2019, Seiko just upped the stakes once more, with the Prospex LX. A series of (for now) six watches that are gloriously over-specced, premium Prospex watches. There are three watches in plain steel, and three blacked-out variants. Prospex LX — built around the timeless pillars of sea, land…

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21.03.2019

LIST: A quick look at the hottest Tudor watches of Basel 2019

Tudor’s Baselworld 2019 collection is always a hotly anticipated affair, and this year the Shield offered some stylish new takes on existing models, and a distinctive diver no one saw coming.  Tudor Black Bay P01 One of the more interesting, unexpected and downright surprising releases of Baselworld 2019 has to be the Tudor Black Bay P01. To paraphrase that guy from Star Trek: it’s a Black Bay, Jim — but not as we know it. Based on a prototype watch developed in the late 1960s with the US Navy in mind, this Black Bay is pure tool watch. The party trick here…

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21.03.2019

HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph 

It’s no secret that the Octo Finissimo has been a watch that’s kick-started the heart of Bulgari’s recent string of critical hits. And now the collection has — in addition to the core time-only model, minute repeaters and tourbillons — a chronograph.  And not just any chronograph, the world’s thinnest. This watch took Bulgari almost three years to develop (which, in watch terms, is rather quick), and the movement is a slim 3.3mm, shredding a fair bit of width off the previous thinnest – a 4.65mm manually wound movement from Piaget.  This movement isn’t just thin — it’s got a peripheral winding rotor…

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20.03.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: The Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos – where metal meets ceramic

Editor’s note: The thing I love about Rado is that even when they deliver a seemingly demure, classic round watch, they add a twist. In this case made from the futuristic hybrid alloy Ceramos. It’s definitely a watch to check out in the metal – ummm, Ceramos – to really appreciate.  When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra-hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both…

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18.03.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Another look at the 50-year-old Monaco, just in time for Baselworld

Editor’s note: The mighty Calibre 11-powered Monaco turned 50 just a few weeks ago, and what better time, with Baselworld 2019 only hours away, to have a look at one of the defining chronographs of our time. Now, this version here is, no doubt, a stone cold classic. But I’ve got to wonder, what has TAG Heuer cooked up to celebrate the big 5-0? Here’s hoping we find out soon.  The story in a second: 2015 saw TAG Heuer release the bold Heuer 01, the smart Carrera Connected and a faithful re-edition of one of the most iconic watches ever…

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17.03.2019

NEWS: Peak ridiculousness achieved with the unholy fusion of iPhone and tourbillon

So, this exists. Look, I write about high-end mechanical watches on the daily, so I’ve got a pretty high threshold for the superfluous things in life, but this is just ridiculous.  A company called Caviar (of course they’re called Caviar) has revolutionised the world of both watchmaking and iPhones by releasing (and I quote): “the first iPhone with a Tourbillon”. Now, when I first read the press release I thought it was an iPhone case with tourbillon, which, I mean, isn’t the worst. Tourbillons are cool and if you want to spend more money than is sensible on a case…

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17.03.2019

HANDS-ON: A deep-diving Greek, the Ianos Avyssos

In these days of globalised production and democratised design it seems like there are more micro watch brands than ever before and, really, most of them are pretty forgettable, all riffing from the same songbook/factory catalogue. So when something a little left of centre shows up, I tend to pay attention.  The Ianos Avyssos is one such watch. On the surface it’s a dive watch, rated to 300 metres, with the bezel, lume and other bits and bobs you associate with the genre. But pretty quickly you work out that it’s the other elements that separate this watch from the…

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16.03.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: That time the T+T team picked the one watch they’d wear for the rest of their lives

Editor’s note: For some reason, the days before Baselworld always fire up my acquisitive tendencies, however hypothetical. And when it comes to hypotheticals, for watch fans they don’t come much greater than this. One watch. For ever. That’s the question I asked the team last year, and this is what they said … Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It’s clearly hypothetical and I’m pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it’s a perennial watch party favourite, and can be…

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15.03.2019

HANDS-ON: Creux Automatiq evolve their offering with the Diamondback CA-08

Last year I had the pleasure of reviewing the Ghost Explorer, a contemporarily styled sports watch from Australian-based Creux Automatiq. It was a surprisingly sophisticated and solid piece of kit, so when I saw posts of their forthcoming line, the Diamondback, I was keen to get my hands on one.  Fast forward to me opening a DHL package, and unboxing the Diamondback CA-08, and I immediately noticed a few significant differences on this watch from its predecessor – most notably a smaller case size, solid dial and a brand new bracelet. It’s two changes that go a long way to…

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13.03.2019

INTRODUCING: The harder, faster, stronger Hublot Big Bang Ferrari in Magic Gold

The ongoing creative collaboration between Hublot and Ferrari is now in its seventh year, and it doesn’t look like it’s running out of gas any time soon, if the latest offering is any indication. We’re talking about the Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold. The defining feature of this edition of 250 watches is the sporty chassis in Magic Gold. This 45mm case was reworked last year by Hublot and Ferrari’s design team to create a sleeker look, with those case-hugging chrono pushers and cowl-like crown placement. And while the refreshed case is pretty noteworthy, it’s the Magic Gold that still…

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08.03.2019

LIST: 4 outrageously cool Australian military Bremonts I spotted at their Melbourne boutique opening

Walking into Bremont’s brand new Melbourne boutique, it doesn’t take long to work out the brand’s military and aviation connection. If the spartan style of the watches didn’t give the game away, the pictures of planes on the walls, the hanging model biplane, and the actual, very battered looking ejection seat sitting front-and-centre kind of give it away.  Not that all those fine details were too easy to spot last night, as the space was packed with people who either loved the brand or were keen to find out more. And amongst the brand’s most die-hard fans are the people…

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08.03.2019

VIDEO: Ulysse Nardin’s 2019 releases prove they’re ready for anything

On the off chance that you’re not, Ulysse Nardin is a brand you should be paying attention to. There’s a real energy around the Le Locle-based manufacture – all the burners are firing. And while one of the brand’s most discussed 2019 releases – the exquisitely painted sexy mermaid pieces of the Classico Manara series — is *too rude* for T+T, there’s still plenty of other, less X-rated horology to discuss. Like the new Freak X, a technically toned down take on their iconic rebel that still delivers high impact with less of a hit to the hip pocket. And then…

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06.03.2019

HANDS-ON: The Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic

Over the years I’ve had a few run-ins with UK-based brand Christopher Ward, having reviewed some of their older world time and jump hour watches. I’ve never tried one of their more mainline pieces on for size though, but when I saw the press renders for the C65 Trident Automatic I figured it was about time I changed that. The C65 Trident is an attractive piece, a neo-vintage diver that offers a strong blend of today’s practicality and yesterday’s charm. Clocking in at a decent 41mm across, and 11.5mm high, this stylish steel chap is offered in either blue or…

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05.03.2019

VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019

Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, and that statement piece (literally, it was all about the statement of the watch industry’s environmental obligations) did not disappoint in real life (again, literally). Another high-level statement that impressed in real life was the exceptionally minimal Swiss Alp Concept Black — I just shudder…

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27.02.2019

VIDEO: New Traditions – taking a look at the Rado Tradition 1965

There’s few things I like more in watchland than being surprised. Sadly, it doesn’t happen too often. But when it does, it’s always memorable. And being in Rado’s booth at Basel last year was one of those moments. I had seen the large Tradition 1965 on display and dismissed it without a thought. Who needs a plus-sized rectangular watch, I thought to myself.  Turns out, me. When I put this watch on I was blown away at how comfortable it was (it wears very well for the shape, and the titanium case keeps the weight down), and the shape of…

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27.02.2019

INTRODUCING: The Bremont MBIII 10th Anniversary limited edition

Bremont is a brand built, to no small degree, around meaningful collaborations — particularly those in the aerospace sector. And of these relationships there’s one that holds pride of place and speaks to the heart of the British brand – Martin-Baker.  Martin-Baker has, since 1946, been one of the most important suppliers of ejection seats and escape systems. Their seats are used on more than 80 aircraft types and have saved 7595 lives. This year marks a decade of partnership with Bremont. The watch collection that is the fruit of this partnership is the Martin-Baker line, a decidedly modern take…

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26.02.2019

HANDS-ON: The sustainable Submersible, Panerai’s Submersible Mike Horn Edition, PAM00984

There were a lot of very interesting watches released at SIHH. Oftentimes, this interest was centred around complication — and rightly so, it’s really the watch industry’s traditional bailiwick. But for me, one of the most interesting collections overall was Panerai.  Panerai, while certainly accomplished at the higher end of the spectrum, tends not to play the complication game, which is entirely in keeping with the brand’s rough and tumble history. Instead, they went down a different (and perhaps more significant in the long run) route. Panerai’s SIHH 2019 releases were exclusively Submersible models, several of which tie into Panerai’s…

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25.02.2019

LIST: 3 well-dressed men straight up wrist flexing at the 2019 Oscars

There’s an argument to be made for a subtle sartorial flex (and it’s an argument that Barack Obama definitely won with his Rag & Bone “44” bomber jacket btw). Class, elegance, all that jazz. But there’s an equally strong statement to be made for putting your best foot forward, and expressing yourself. Something these three fellas are very familiar with.  Bradley Cooper and his IWC Big Pilot Big Bradley Cooper has been filling out the role of a 21st century interpretation of a classic Hollywood leading man, wearing a pin-sharp Tom Ford tux, and bringing his mum along to the…

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25.02.2019

VIDEO: Game, set, match…point. A closer look at Rado’s HyperChrome Match Point

Sports tie-in watches play a — if you’ll pardon the pun — dangerous game. On the one hand there’s a lot of gloss (and potential sales) to be earned from the association with an event that’s under the spotlight. The downside, though, is you might end up with a watch that looks more like a souvenir than a fine piece of precision engineering. This Rado HyperChrome Match Point walks this line just fine. To most casual — and even closer — viewers, it’s a regular Rado chronograph, complete with the high-tech ceramic case and bracelet so synonomous with Rado, as well…

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21.02.2019

VIDEO: Rado’s off-centre DiaMaster proves that life isn’t always balanced

If you’re looking for a watch that’s a little left-of-centre style-wise, look no further. Rado’s idiosyncratic DiaMaster takes many of the conventions of fine watchmaking and turns them, if not on their heads, at least a little bit sideways. And the resulting watch is, it must be said, quite charming. Of course, there are still some familiar Rado hallmarks on display, like the high-tech ceramic case. There’s also an ever-reliable automatic movement that isn’t content to be relegated to the caseback, instead taking centre stage on the dial side — to great effect. The case is hefty, at 43mm, and…

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21.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Glashütte Original gets spicy with two new pumpkin-hued Sixties models 

Hold onto your hats because Glashütte Original has just dropped another dose of exceptional colour, in the form of the 2019 edition of the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date. In case you don’t recall last year’s version, it was a pretty exceptional green (here’s a closer look) and a very popular choice. It was also one of the greatest examples of green being a breakthrough trend for 2018. Now, we don’t think that this fiery orange will have broad cross-sectional appeal, but if you’re a fan of the colour, the chances are good that you will love this pair of…

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20.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Another look at the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ203

Editor’s note: Basel is just around the corner, which means that I’m spending more time than is strictly healthy speculating on what configurations of complications we might be seeing from our favourite brands … like Grand Seiko. But you know what? It would be a hard task indeed to improve on the long tall drink of water that is this Grand Seiko GMT.  If you were looking for a go-anywhere-do-anything type watch (and honestly, aren’t we all?), then a stylistically versatile steel GMT on a bracelet would tick a lot of the boxes. And as far as versatile steel GMTs go,…

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20.02.2019

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Silver 

Zenith is rather proud of the fact — and understandably so — that they hold the trademark for the “Pilot” name on watches, so it makes sense for them to proudly emblazon the name on the dials of their aviation-inspired pieces. This latest limited edition is extra special (also mentioned on the dial), because of its uncommon construction. The design of this Pilot is — well — pure pilot, with its large, classically shaped 45mm case, even bigger onion crown, stylised Arabic numerals and cathedral hands, replete with a suitably rugged calfskin strap (with an extra, somewhat mysterious, layer of leather…

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19.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Golden years – when to rock the heavy metal

Editor’s note: The other week I caught up with a mate who had recently come to the inevitable realisation that he needed a yellow gold Day-Date on his wrist. He struggled with the stigma of gold for ages (yellow gold AND a Rolex to boot), before finally reconciling that it was, by all metrics, awesome. And that got me thinking back to this instructional guide from Andy Green … You know who you are, and you know why you’re here — and it’s totally fine. You’ve found yourself at the inevitable crossroad that all collectors come to. You’re finally in the position…

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19.02.2019

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Marine Chronograph ref. 5527

If I’m being honest, this is one of the less “Breguet” watches Breguet has released in recent years. It’s an unconventional mix of traditional features, in a much more contemporary package. All the key design features are there: the fluted case, the hands and the elaborately guillochéd dial, but this watch is a world away from their Classique collection, while still being undeniably Breguet. It also — and this is a key point — doesn’t look too much like anything else in the crowded field of high-end sports chronographs. And make no mistake, this is a high-end sports chronograph. One…

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16.02.2019

LIST: 6 things I want (and hope) to see at Baselworld 2019

I don’t want to sound too hyperbolic, but Baselworld 2019 will be make or break. The once grand fair has been navigating turbulent waters for a while now, and last year’s mass exodus by Swatch Group brands ripped a hole in the hull that almost sunk it. This year’s fair will be smaller again, and whether or not the organising body has done enough to keep remaining exhibitors happy remains to be seen. It will also be an interesting year for watch releases. Brands are increasingly favouring a drip-feed of digital drops rather than the Baselworld grand reveal, and we’re…

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15.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

In the last few years, skeletonised watches have undergone a renaissance. Once overly designed and overwrought, at some point this distinctive genre segued from niche to very nice indeed. And Jaquet Droz’s Skelet-One is a great example of this new breed. Clean and simple, rather than ornate, is the name of the game for this less-is-more take on the classic Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde figure-eight dial layout. Last year we had a look at the Skelet-One in gold, and now they’ve added a dose of ceramic to the mix. And honestly, I think this is the way to go. What…

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13.02.2019

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin – now on a fully gold bracelet 

When it comes to Vacheron Constantin’s SIHH releases, there’s no doubt the pieces that were the talk of the town (and rightfully so) were the epic Twin Beat and the slightly less epic but epically attractive Overseas Tourbillon. And I get it, they’re both great watches. The Twin Beat is a triumph of clever engineering and the Overseas Tourbillon is downright gorgeous. But the heart wants what the heart wants. And the Vacheron Constantin my heart wanted wasn’t really a new watch at all. But, instead, an existing piece on a new bracelet. And, boy, what a difference a bracelet…

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12.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Only the toughest – 6 awesomely over-designed watches

Editor’s note: First of all, let me state that Cam nailed this list. He’s pulled a bunch of bangers out of left field, and they’re all very much fit for purpose. They’re also surprisingly colourful and, it must be said, far tougher than you really need.  There are watches that are tough, and then there are watches so tough that they’re guaranteed to survive in even the most extreme environments, even if you wouldn’t. We’re talking over-engineering to the point where no man has been before. Watches that can take on the most dangerous of adventures, that push far beyond…

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12.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune

If the increasingly frantic targeted ads in my Instagram feed for fancy underwear and/or chocolate are anything to go by, Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Well, if you’re reading this and have left your extravagant-show-of-affection-giftstravaganza run a little late, don’t worry. We — or rather Blancpain — have your back. Say hello to the Blancpain Villeret Valentine Women Quantième Phases de Lune, a delightful limited edition made with Valentine’s Day in mind. Of course, there’s the expected mix of mother-of-pearl dial and liberal sprinkling of sparkly stones in the 33mm red gold case, but what really elevates this…

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11.02.2019

HANDS-ON: Glashütte Original go all out with their contemporary Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

As far as complications go, perpetual calendars are typically classically styled, verging on the stuffy, depending on how well they’re done. Not that there’s anything fundamentally wrong with this – after all, fine watchmaking thrives on tradition. But I can understand the desire to shake things up a little, and throw down some contemporary styles, which is exactly what Glashütte Original have done with this limited edition take on their Senator Excellence PC. Fundamentally, this watch is the same as the ‘regular’ model, a nicely sized 42mm model, with a big panorama date at four (hence the name), moon at…

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11.02.2019

VIDEO: 3 standout Submersibles from Panerai’s SIHH 2019 collection

If you had any doubts about Panerai’s position as kings of the deep, their SIHH 2019 release catalogue would have dispelled them. Panerai’s hero watch is, of course, the Submersible. It’s one of the brand’s most interesting designs, as it honours their historically important case shape (cushiony, with a fairly famous crown guard), while adding a very handy bezel and some more contemporary lines. This year sees Panerai tweak a few more details, playing more with smaller sizes and interesting case materials. Here are our top picks. Panerai Submersible Carbotech 42mm – PAM00960 Carbotech is, without a doubt, a cool…

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10.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Spending a year with the Rolex Submariner 116610LV – AKA ‘The Hulk’

Editor’s note: In the second part of our year-long reviews, Andy tells us what it’s like to Hulk out for a year. Sun’s getting real low … Swiping the debit card on this purchase wasn’t an easy decision. Being someone constantly surrounded by watches, I was more than aware of the endless list of great options within this price bracket. Now, don’t get me wrong, there were some very big temptations along the way, but a Rolex was something I’d been working towards for a little while, and just over a year ago, the time was right. Wearability has always…

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10.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Spending a year with the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 ‘Grey Phantom’ 

Editor’s note: Typically, the watches we review are in our possession for a few days or, maybe if we’re lucky, a few weeks. Sometimes the relationship lasts a little longer than that. Today we’re going to revisit two reviews that were a year in the making. Kicking off with my TAG Heuer … For those who know me and my taste in watches a little bit, the fact that I own a TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 typically comes as a bit of a surprise, as there’s a perception that I like the simpler, smaller things in watch life. For…

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09.02.2019

VIDEO: 5 outstanding Montblanc watches from SIHH 2019

Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc’s top watch guy, the brand’s timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc’s SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a winner. Two hero collections and a range of watches to appeal to a wide range of tastes. Here are our five picks. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE Last year’s complicated two timer was already a good-looking beast of a watch, and this year the Geosphere’s gone green, making it even more Hulk-like. Montblanc…

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08.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde oozes old school cool

Editor’s note: It should be noted, right up front, that the ‘petite’ in this watch’s name refers to the subsidiary seconds dial, not the overall scale of the piece, which is reasonable and substantial all at once. So, with that caveat out of the way, onto the review … In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That’s not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that’s reflected in the strength…

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08.02.2019

HANDS-ON: Moser’s calm and idyllic Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon

Move over Brooke Shields, the Blue Lagoon has a new star – Moser’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon. And, as with all of Moser’s concept line of watches, there’s almost nothing to get in the way of the typically excellent fumé dial. The Blue Lagoon takes its name from the dial colour which, like all of Moser’s watches, is rather difficult to fully capture on film. It’s iridescent, vivid and compelling. It’s also a very greenish blue, which sits in the middle of Moser’s mild-to-wild spectrum of dial colours. And that, at least to my mind, is just the…

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07.02.2019

VIDEO: 5 of the hottest new Cartier watches from SIHH 2019

Over the last few years, Cartier’s watch releases have been consistently impressive, alternating between savvily commercial and outrageously stunning. This year we saw that strong trend continue. Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph The big news was the addition of a chronograph to last year’s wildly popular new Santos. In addition to complication, this model adds some not insignificant bulk. Cartier Tonneau Deceptively simple and unerringly elegant, this quartz-powered Tonneau is a real looker, and as someone with a fairly large wrist, I was surprised how good it looked on me. Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Skeleton This watch is a classic…

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06.02.2019

LIST: 4 awesome everyday watches from SIHH 2019 that you can actually afford

As far as international watch fairs go, SIHH is great. If highly complex, mind-blowing timepieces are your jam, it’s the one for you. After all, it’s the Haute Horlogerie fair. But things get a touch trickier if you (like I suspect many of our readers) are into simpler fare, more suitable for daily duty. Never fear though, for amidst the tourbillons and astronomical complications there’s some incredible value to be had. Like these four watches … Montblanc Heritage Automatic Montblanc’s revamped Heritage collection was one of the real winners from SIHH, a collection oozing in stylish nostalgia and charm. No…

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05.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Grand Seiko has just announced four new slim manual-wind models in the Elegance Collection and, yes, the dials are off the charts

Grand Seiko has, in the lead-up to Baselworld, just announced a brand new movement for the Elegance Collection, four new manually wound, slender watches (three of them limited editions) that look very promising indeed. First things first, this collection is powered by a new manually wound caliber, the 9S63, the brand’s first in eight years. The basics of this hand-wound movement are that it’s got a reserve of 72 hours, and accurate to within +5/-3 seconds a day. More importantly, this movement opens up new design possibilities for Grand Seiko, with its current layout of balanced small seconds at nine…

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05.02.2019

HANDS-ON: Crashing to earth – Piaget’s Altiplano with meteorite dial

Adding variety in the world of ultra-thin watchmaking is tricky. Because in this space, additional complications typically equals extra thickness — and that defeats the aim of the exercise. So instead of working on altering the mechanics, you change the aesthetics, which is just what Piaget has done here with these new additions to the Altiplano family. Before we take a closer look at those spectacular dials, a quick recap on this particular Altiplano. At 40mm across, and with a very simple, traditional round case, this watch is dressy by design. The incredible thinness of 6.5mm makes it almost unimaginable…

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04.02.2019

VIDEO: 5 stunning Jaeger-LeCoultre watches from SIHH 2019

The talk of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth at SIHH was the incredible (and incredibly well-sized) Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, but that rare bird was in hot demand, so we didn’t manage any quality one-on-one time with it. But that’s OK really, as there were numerous other exquisitely finished offerings on hand, from the Reverso and Master families. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel This watch and the two other Master Thins take several design cues from the grand daddy Gyrotourbillon, but in a package that’s in the realm of mortals. The dials are a rich and complex blue guilloché,…

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03.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: To beater, or not to beater – what exactly makes a beater watch, that is the question

Editor’s note: It’s one of the watch world’s perennial favourite questions – what makes a beater? After all, those vintage steel Rolex models were designed to be worn, and worn hard. But then again, they’re very expensive. Justin delves into the issue … What can and can’t be dubbed a ‘Beater Watch’ remains a contentious issue among many. Whether ’tis nobler in the mind to let your watch suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take arms against a sea of troubles and shelter your beloved watch from harm. The ponderings of Hamlet seemed oddly fitting one…

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03.02.2019

MY WEEK WITH: The Omega Speedmaster CK 2998

As far as famous watches go, the Speedmaster is way up there. And aside from its famous extraterrestrial exploits, it’s also a real staple of the watch world, which is why a Speedy was a natural choice of wrist wear for my recent Swiss trip. The fact that this trip included spending some quality time with Omega only sealed the deal. The next question was: which Speedmaster? Well, in the end, my decision wasn’t too hard, because even though you’re spoiled for choice, I wanted a more classical iteration, and one with a mix of personality and versatility. So I…

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02.02.2019

VIDEO: 6 of the best new IWC watches from SIHH 2019

One of my highlights of SIHH every year is IWC – and not just because their booth is exceptional; this year it was dominated by an actual gleaming silver Spitfire. No, I like seeing IWC because the watches rarely disappoint, and this year was absolutely no exception. The Pilot’s collection is one of the brand’s iconic staples, and hugely popular in Australia (and, for that matter, around the world). And at SIHH it got some major new additions, mainly in the Spitfire and Top Gun sub families. Spitfire is the more retro of the two, and covered off the classics…

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01.02.2019

HANDS-ON: New balance – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph 

One of the most interesting — and important — new watch releases I saw while in Geneva recently wasn’t shown at SIHH at all. Rather, it was presented by TAG Heuer. On the surface the watch is typically TAG Heuer, in look and indeed nomenclature — it’s called the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph, and has that large, modular case construction that we’re so familiar with by now, along with carbon lugs and bezels that are straight-up cribbed from their recent Carbon capsule collection. The dial texture is a little different, with a hexagonal structure that looks cool and…

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31.01.2019

INTRODUCING: Bulgari bring back a legend with the Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Few names loom larger in the collective consciousness of horological history than Gérald Genta. He’s one of the few individual designers whose name — because of the strength of his work — stands as tall as the great houses for whom he worked. But later in his career, Genta launched his own eponymous brand which demonstrated a penchant for retrograde displays and Disney characters. Eventually, the Genta brand was acquired by Bulgari, who have continued to evolve some of the great designer’s works under their own name, and to great effect. Which was why this watch, presented recently in Geneva,…

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31.01.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: The most overlooked element in watch design

Editor’s note: Someone I know is in the process of looking for a new watch – a Breitling Aerospace to be specific. Now, on first glance, this weird old ana-digi watch might not have much going for it, but, really, for a watch so light, this watch packs a big punch. And you know why? Well, I don’t want to give the game away, so read on … Case profile. There, I said it. It might not be as sexy as the movement or the dial, but in terms of real-world user-friendliness, it’s the kingmaker or deal-breaker. The problem is,…

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30.01.2019

VIDEO: The most complicated watches of SIHH 2019 – our top picks

OK, here are the watches that put the HH into SIHH, the sort of timepieces that challenge and define exactly what it’s possible to do with a watch on your wrist. These sort of movements take years and years of development, so it’s unreasonable to expect a new one every year, but at this year’s instalment of SIHH, the top end of town was very well represented, with some genuine innovation, and true ingenuity on show. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar One of the real standouts of the show was Vacheron Constantin’s innovative Twin Beat, which boasts twin…

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27.01.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s 3 favourites from SIHH 2019, from $35K and above

If my other two lists (here and here, in case you forgot) had loose themes tying them together, this one is all over the shop, covering off the serious to playful spectrum very nicely indeed. So, let’s start with the serious … A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date It’s larger and thinner, but the real news is the smartly executed date. You’d be forgiven for expecting a date aperture, in line with the time display, but no, Lange opted for an open-worked date disk that looks very nice indeed. Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Skeleton Cartier’s skeleton watches are well known,…

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26.01.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in ceramic and titanium, with no date

One of the most exciting watches of last year was the significantly revamped Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, a modern icon of the brand that managed to sneak into both Andrew’s and my own ‘best of 2018’ lists (so it must be good). Well, the SMP just got a little bit better — Omega has announced a new version, in an oh-so-sexy looking black ceramic case, topped off with a titanium bezel with a matching black ceramic insert. This is a watch case that really works with ceramic: the complex shapes (like those lyre lugs) and mix of brushed and polished…

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25.01.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s top 3 watches from SIHH 2019 – between $10k and $35k

My last list — a trio of well-priced SIHH offerings — could be neatly broken down into a loose theme of air, sea and land. But this trifecta, covering the much broader $10,000 – $35,000 price bracket, is much less easily pigeon-holed. But if I had to find commonalities I could well go with elegant shapes. The Piaget Polo S A case of a simple change making a big difference, I like this rich green take on the sporty Polo S so much more than I would have expected. It’s an absolute cracker, and a real change in personality from…

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23.01.2019

INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia

The day after SIHH, I found myself walking around the cobbled streets of Geneva’s old town. It’s a very different Geneva to the vast, softly furnished halls of the Palexpo, or even the squat monoliths of the famed manufactures, with their clean rooms and airlocks. No, this street was winding, cobbled and, even though the day was sunny, cold. It was a street filled with art galleries and antique stores and, as I was to discover, one of the most exciting watchmakers in the business right now. In many ways, watchmaking is all about light. It’s something that’s incredibly important…

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23.01.2019

INTRODUCING: A vision in red – the brand new Omega De Ville Trésor 125th Anniversary Special Edition

It’s well known that Omega loves an anniversary, but the one that I’m currently celebrating with them in Bienne is quite significant. This year marks 125 years since the Calibre Omega — a 19-ligne movement that was so significant that, a few years after its debut in 1894, the company changed its name to the Omega Watch Company in 1903, and the rest, as they say, is history. But what made the Calibre so significant that it earned the declarative moniker of Omega — the last letter of the Greek alphabet — and the ‘ultimate’ achievement in watchmaking? Well, this…

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22.01.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe may soon be up for sale

Gossip is one of the staples of SIHH and, as far as gossip goes, it doesn’t get much juicier than this. Bloomberg are reporting that Patek Philippe — one of the last great independently held watchmakers — may be considering a sale. Based on a note by analysts Berenberg, there’s industry talk of a sale, which would be expected to cost seven to nine billion euros. Now, write this off as pure speculation, but as the Bloomberg article suggests, there may be some basis to the rumour. The next question: who could buy it? Swatch or Richemont perhaps, but also don’t write…

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20.01.2019

LIST: Felix’s top 3 picks under $10k from SIHH 2019

Look, I’m going to be honest with you. Believe it or not, SIHH doesn’t have a whole lot on offer in the sub $10,000 category. It’s a sweet spot for one or two of the brands, and a handful of others have one or two watches that fit the bill. But even given the fact that there are not too many watches to choose from, I found this a hard trio to settle on. But in the end I settled on three stunners. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire I mean, just look at this thing. Pure, purpose-built perfection. Aside…

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20.01.2019

VIDEO: Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech, the PAM00979

In recent years, Panerai has made some lateral moves, with watches like the more land-based Due. But for SIHH 2019, one of the original dive watch brands was underwater in full force. Their collection was chock-full of Submersibles (which is now a distinct line of its own). Panerai’s Marina Militare watches pay tribute to the brand’s naval roots, and that famous dial text was back this year, and on a watch that looks, frankly, incredible. The big 47mm Carbotech dial is paired with a carbon dial and even a newly designed handset. There’s a lot to like here, but see…

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17.01.2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions

Breitling has just announced three retro takes on their iconic pilot’s watch — the mighty Navitimer — that evoke the golden age of jet travel. The Airline Editions capsule collection consists of tributes to three of the great airlines, Pan Am, Swissair and TWA. Each airline is the subject of nostalgic homage, in the form of a colourful, and undeniably cool, version of the Navitimer 1 B01. The context behind this capsule collection is quite interesting, as these are limited production, limited run watches, rather than a limited edition per se. The purpose behind this approach is to highlight specific…

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17.01.2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Cadran Bleu

Baume & Mercier’s foray into the world of in-house movements resulted in one of the biggest value propositions of 2018, the Clifton Baumatic. Well, this year the simple steel watch with an impressive five-day power reserve was the subject of a stylish makeover, in the form of a blue dial. But not just any blue. The cadran bleu, as it’s called, is a deep, dark graduated blue that veers strongly into black territory at its outer limits. It’s not as bold or flashy as some other graduated blue dials, but it’s also a lot more mysterious as black. Dial change…

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16.01.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s top 10 watches of 2018

Yes, I know it’s mid Jan, and the traditional time for a summary top ten listicle is late December. But you know what I’ve always said? Better late than never. So, here we are, knee-deep in the best watches of SIHH and Andrew and I are engaging in some 2018 reflection. But really, though, these watches are so good that they manage to transcend the amorphous concept of short-lived “novelty” and deserve to be celebrated beyond their initial marketing period. At least that’s how I’m justifying it to myself. So, from Chanel to Omega, sit back and enjoy the ride…

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15.01.2019

INTRODUCING: Panerai’s new America’s Cup partnership and the stealthy Submersible Luna Rossa

2019 is shaping up to be the year of the Submersible for Panerai, with the brand hitting hard with a collection full of their most modern takes on the dive watch. And one of the coolest is the Submersible Luna Rossa, a very cool carbon fibre number made to honour their brand new partnership with the 36th America’s Cup challenger of record, team Luna Rossa, and their AC75. The first watch in this partnership is a 47mm large Carbotech case, and the material takes on a completely different, much more stealthy characteristic here than on the previous Carbotech model, thanks…

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13.01.2019

LIST: 7 things I’m looking forward to seeing at SIHH 2019

It’s one sleep to SIHH, and the watch releases are coming thick and fast, with many of the exhibiting brands giving us a peek at some of their highlight releases. And while some pieces have raised a little more than eyebrows (hello AP!), I’ve got a feeling that for many brands, the best is yet to come. So here is my lightning fast list of what I’m eagerly anticipating (and hoping to see) at SIHH 2019. Audemars Piguet Yep. Code 11.59 is, for better or worse, the talk of SIHH even before the doors are open. And while it’s an…

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13.01.2019

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X, more accessible, but still freaky

Over the last few years, Ulysse Nardin has been greatly expanding its Freak family (a smart move say I), and the latest member is the Freak X, which joins the Freak Out and Freak Vision. Now, before we break down this watch, a quick word about X, which is serving as something of a thematic moniker for the brand this year. It’s a good theme, evoking everything from mystery to gravity to (depending on how many Xs you use) eroticism. All things Ulysse Nardin is quite adept to translating into watch form. Though I can’t help but wonder if UN…

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12.01.2019

LIST: Looking back at Rado’s heritage highlights

Rado isn’t a brand that you typically think of when you think about ‘heritage’. On the one hand this makes perfect sense, as the brand is best known for their decidedly modern materials and avant-garde designs. But on the other, Rado has been around for a while (since 1917), and has a host of great old styles to draw on. And, in recent years, Rado has been more active in doing just that, and we’ve picked our favourites. Naturally, the Captain Cook looms large, in both its faithful — near facsimile grade — models, as well as the larger, more…

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11.01.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: 10 things you need to know about Japan’s grandest watch brand, Grand Seiko

Editor’s note: My love (indeed the collective T+T love) for Grand Seiko is very real. There’s no denying the quality, care and craftsmanship that goes into these watches that (still) manage to be one of the better kept secrets of fine watches. There’s also no denying that the world of GS can be a little, um, esoteric. So if you need a little explainer, or even a refresher, this one’s for you. I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang…

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11.01.2019

HANDS-ON: Peak performance with the very smart Montblanc Summit 2

I’m flying off to Geneva tomorrow, for the watchstravaganza that is SIHH. And on my wrist, as I step onto the plane, will be Montblanc’s latest generation smartwatch, the Summit 2. Now, Swiss brands have been trying their luck at smartwatches for some time now, with the two biggest players in the space being Montblanc and TAG Heuer. And while the first generation of these Silicon Valley X Swiss connected devices demonstrated the steep learning curves and technical limitations of the genre, we’ve come a long way in a few short years. I tried the original Summit, and I’ve got…

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10.01.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Bremont’s high-flying diver, the Supermarine Type S301

Editor’s note: It might be hard to believe, but Bremont’s signature Townhouse event is just around the corner, and this realisation got us thinking about one of the coolest Bremont releases of last year, the new, and very fresh looking Supermarine Type S301. I wonder if we’ll see any interesting extensions to the line this year … Bremont is a brand fuelled by avgas and the spirit of Icarus. The fledgling British brand has their roots in the sky, as it were. But that doesn’t mean that they’ve neglected other spheres of influence, including motorsports and, as we can see…

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09.01.2019

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold

There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold as the black hole it evokes, there’s another, brighter option out there. The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold, with a more familiar, blue fumé dial. This piece, limited to 50 pieces (and only one in Australia — Melbourne, to be exact), offers, in…

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09.01.2019

NEWS: Chanel steps up their in-house watchmaking capacity with investment in new factory

I’ve been saying for a while now that Chanel are a force to watch when it comes to serious watchmaking. Their recent high-end movements are impressive, to say the least. They’re already investors in Romain Gauthier, and — more recently — F.P. Journe. The latest step in Chanel’s increasing in-house journey is their acquisition of a 20 per cent stake in Kenissi Manufacture. If you’re not familiar with Kenissi, that’s OK, as they’re a fairly new player, currently based in Geneva but moving to a Le Locle facility in 2021. Where things get interesting is the fact that Kenissi is,…

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08.01.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How to perfect product placement on the red carpet

The dust (and hangovers) have settled on the 76th Golden Globes, and on some corners of the internet it seems that the pre-show press pack hustle is a bigger event than the awards themselves. And, given the intense competition from brands in this Instagram age to have that red carpet moment, it’s easy to see why. And while tuxedos and dresses receive the lion’s share of the attention, the wrists are fiercely fought over as well, with Richemont stable brands, such as IWC, Cartier, Montblanc and Jaeger-LeCoultre, particularly well represented. Rami Malek, who won for his turn as Queen frontman…

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08.01.2019

VIDEO: Tissot’s Chrono XL Classic

Here at Time+Tide we make no bones about our love of Tissot’s heritage offerings, but the truth of it is that those old-style pieces make up a small percentage of the brand’s line-up. Chronographs, in particular big sporty chronographs like this Chrono XL Classic, dominate the brand, at least here in Australia. And it’s easy to see why: this 45mm watch offers plenty of plus-size punch, but enough traditional styling to keep things civil. It’s quartz, which means you get a cool little 1/10th of a second register, for all your ultra-specific timing needs. The Chrono XL Classic is also…

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07.01.2019

VIDEO: What becomes of the open hearted – the Rado True Open Heart

Really, at the heart of the appeal of a mechanical watch is the ticking, whirring escapement that sets the pace. That and the assemblage of wheel and bridges that powers and supports it. So it’s apt then that this Rado cuts to the core quickly: the True Open Heart lives up to its name, exposing its metal innards enough to satisfy the curiosity of the wearer, while still living up to Rado’s strong, and distinct sense of design, with its slick plasma toned ceramic, and a black dial that maintains legibility despite its pared-back nature. Rado True Open Heart Australian…

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05.01.2019

VIDEO: From ceramic to the Captain, 5 of 2018’s best Rado releases

Rado had a great year of releases in 2018, with a diverse mix of watches that played to their traditional high-tech material strengths, as well as to some of their traditional designs. And while ceramic naturally played an important part, it was used in some surprising ways — like when it was mixed with bronze to create a very cool HyperChrome, and mixed with other metals to create the new alloy Ceramos. And then there were the brand’s tributes to their historic Captain Cook models, two similar but different takes on a great old internal bezel diver. And while the…

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01.01.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Wired’s tech take on the smartwatch 

For a site ostensibly about fine mechanical watches we spend a decent amount of time talking and thinking about watches of the smart variety. But we come at the genre (which is, thanks to Apple, the biggest category of watch in the game at the moment) from a fairly particular (dare I say biased) perspective, whereas Wired, one of the most venerable and respected tech news sites in the world, comes at it, it’s fair to say, from another point of view entirely. Which is why the fact that their fundamental experiences with smartwatches so closely mirror my own, right…

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30.12.2018

INSIGHT: David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best

A little while ago, Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two of his Tudor watches. And I’ve got to say, as far as showing what a brand is all about, they’re pretty hard to beat. The first video looks at the first Tudor watch Beckham owned and wore, a 1969 Snowflake Sub, which Beckham describes as an “old, messed up watch”. And while I wouldn’t go quite so far as to say it’s messed up, it has certainly lived a life, with a beautifully faded ghost bezel and some real age…

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29.12.2018

LIST: Felix Scholz’s 5 favourite stories of 2018

For this year’s instalment of the T+T version of “these are a few of my favourite things”, I’m going to substitute noodles, poodles, and brown paper packages tied up with string for videos. So, without any further Julie Andrews’ references, here are five of my favourite videos. Russell Crowe talks exclusively to us about the stories behind his watches, and why he’s selling them Unsurprisingly, our video with the Kiwi who became an actor, who became a star, who collected watches (AKA Russell Crowe) was popular. In fact, it’s our most popular video to date, with a cool half a…

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24.12.2018

VIDEO: Tudor’s 1926 is a classic charmer

One of the more intriguing releases from Tudor this year — and one that didn’t get quite the attention it otherwise would have, thanks to the show-stealing GMT — was the classically styled 1926. Taking its name from the year the Tudor name was registered, it also owes some design cues to this golden era of style. Take, for example, the finely textured waffle dial, with the blued Arabic numerals interspersed with arrow-head markers. Lovely, but also wearable, and entirely wearable nearly 100 years later. The case is well-sized, the movement rock solid, and the solidly made bracelet adds a…

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23.12.2018

HANDS-ON: A flash on the wrist – the carbon and gold TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon

TAG Heuer has never been afraid of trying new things, and the new Carbon collection is proof. To date, it consists of three popular models that have been given a carbon makeover: the Monaco, the Aquaracer and the Carrera. Earlier this week, we showed you the stealthier Carbon Carrera, but today we’re going to make a quick trip to shine town, with the carbon and rose gold model. Now, funnily enough, thanks to the liberal lashings of gold on the dial, crown and lugs, the carbon inclusions on this watch are quite understated, with only the bezel being made of…

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22.12.2018

LIST: 5 Cartier watches we’d love for Christmas

It’s not many sleeps until Christmas, and the spirit of the season has well and truly taken over in the Time+Tide office, and – as so often happens – our idle speculation has turned to watches. Specifically, Cartier’s watches. So, in the spirit of the season, we’ve done a quick whip-around as to what watch we might find ensconced in a red and gold box under the tree. Assuming, of course, that we’ve been nice this year. Andy’s choice – the Santos de Cartier in pink gold You have to wish big when it comes to Christmas, so why not…

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21.12.2018

VIDEO: The big-hearted Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart 

Many of Rado’s case designs lean towards what we can, in air quotes, refer to as ‘designer’. Sleek, modernist offerings that evoke a high-concept design language. The HyperChrome has some elements of these, in the lines of bracelet in particular, but the overall shape is one of their more traditional — a simple, sturdy round watch. However, if that’s the shape, the details and execution here are something else. Firstly, ceramic, and lots of it. And then there’s the open heart, offering a clear view into the inner, automatic workings of this bold watch. And finally, the brown ceramic number…

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20.12.2018

VIDEO: 8 Cartier watches that stand out 

A little while ago I made my way down to Cartier’s Collins Street boutique in Melbourne, spent a little time amidst the glittering plinths and picked out some watches that, for me at least, really epitomise what makes the Maison’s watchmaking so great. Of course there are numerous shapes in attendance, from the circle of the Ballon Bleu through to the bold rectangles of the Tank. Really, though, the common thread through these eight watches is the overall strength of design, and the timelessness of it. All eight of these watches — regardless of shape, case metal and even complications — are…

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19.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Carbon

I’ve always had a bit of a soft spot for the Aquaracer. To my mind, it’s something of an unsung hero in TAG Heuer’s chronograph-heavy line-up. But the modern diver looks the business and, in a water-loving country like Australia, makes sense. It’s also quite a youthful feeling watch, which makes a nice changeup from the current litany of heritage-inspired offerings. And while the Aquaracer has never been particularly colour-averse, it’s somewhat ironic that this stealthy, blacked-out option is all about the colour. It’s offered in three variants, with blue, rose gold or yellow detailing, and today we’re having a…

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18.12.2018

VIDEO: An everyday all-star – the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles

A little while ago I posited that the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 was the best-value diver of 2018, a bold claim I still back. Today, it’s time to meet the Seastar’s dressy cousin, the Chemin des Tourelles. This watch is powered by the same, quite impressive Powermatic 80 as the Seastar, but on the surface it’s a completely different looking beast. A 42mm case, with a flashy blue starburst dial with an outer level of quite fancy Clous de Paris style finishing, which goes well with the applied numerals. This Tissot hits a lot of familiar, friendly notes, and…

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18.12.2018

VIDEO: Altered Carbon – TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon

The blacked-out Carbon capsule collection takes some sporty TAG Heuer staples and remixes them with carbon, in its various forms — there’s the Bamford Monaco, the colour-popping Aquaracer, and this guy, the Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon. Now, the familiar case on this Carrera isn’t all carbon; only the lugs and bezel are made from the lightweight, high-tech composite, more than enough to give the look (and the feel) of the material, while the central case elements are made from more conventional steel (albeit blacked-out). The other nifty thing about this watch is the Heuer 02 movement, which is a thoroughly…

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16.12.2018

VIDEO: Which Panerai Submersible is right for you? 

At its heart, Panerai is about diving. The brand was born under the waves and continues to call the underwater world home. Which is why we found ourselves, several weeks ago, watching — slightly nervously — as a brace of Panerai Submersibles dipped into a giant tank full of rays, sharks and other (less threatening) fish at the Melbourne Aquarium. Thankfully, the watches were attached to the wrists of professional divers, who put them through their paces, leaving us in the position to debate the various merits of three stars in the Submersible line-up: the Submersible Carbotech, the Submersible in 42mm…

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15.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I’ve got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It’s the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow, and it does pretty much what it says on the tin. Let’s start with the case. Hublot has been playing with (and seriously democratising) ultra-hard, ultra-slick and ultra-cool synthetic sapphire cases since 2016, and it’s become something of a staple in their higher-end limited editions. For all its transparency, this 45mm wide and 14.25mm thick case has stacks…

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14.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech – PAM00692

At first glance, you could be forgiven for thinking that this is a 47mm Submersible much like any other. On second, or perhaps third glance, the truth becomes more apparent. This is a Panerai unlike any other, and that difference is thanks to the case, the BMG in BMG-Tech. BMG is short for Bulk Metallic Glass, and it’s what the case is made out of. When I learned this, it took a while to get my head around it. Glass is in the name, but this case is far from fragile. BMG is a glass-like alloy of zirconium, copper, aluminium,…

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13.12.2018

VIDEO: It’s not ceramic, it’s not metal, it’s the Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos

When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they’ve chosen to deploy Ceramos on the relatively conservative DiaMaster Thinline, a classic two-hander with a date. So, if you like your tradition with a healthy dose of technical, check out the Rado…

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13.12.2018

VIDEO: Small but powerful, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Chronograph 42mm

Hublot has built its brand on the twin pillars of big and bold — I mean, they don’t call it a Big Bang for nothing. This year the brand changed tack with the announcement of a scaled-down Big Bang, clocking in at a much more wrist-friendly 42mm. Just quietly, I think this is an awesome development: 42mm means that the watch will comfortably fit more wrists than ever before, while still offering maximalist impact. And it’s just the beginning, with fairly core models being offered in this smaller diameter, but I suspect that will change soon … So, if you’ve…

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12.12.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The Raymond Weil Maestro Moon Phase 

Editor’s note: The ever-changing beauty of the moon meets the constant charms of Raymond Weil’s musically inspired Maestro. The results are powerful.  Call me a romantic, but the moon phase complication is amongst my favourites. Paradoxically, it’s also amongst the least functional — tracking the waxing and waning of our most significant satellite isn’t something that’s high on my list of life priorities. And when the topic does come up, I can, you know, look at the sky. But, really, that’s not the point of a moon phase. It’s a complication of wonder, one that speaks — on a scale…

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11.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic – PAM00616

At first glance, Panerai’s watches share a reassuring familiarity — large cases, large crown guards and a dial design that puts legibility front and centre. A close look at the catalogue will show that the brand born from its Italian diving heritage has quite a lot of diversity on offer, particularly when it comes to case materials. From bronze to ceramic and (most recently) Bulk Metallic Glass, Panerai has strong form when it comes to material innovation. And today we’re having a closer look at one of the most interesting examples from recent times: Carbotech. Before we talk about the…

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11.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium Alternative Pavé

To my mind, the watches coming out of Hublot’s partnership with contemporary artist Richard Orlinski have been some of the brand’s most striking. The bold, geometric look manages to be both in keeping with Hublot’s design ethos, while looking on-trend. At the heart of this, Orlinski’s appeal is the facets, which allows the typically blocky case of the Classic Fusion to play with light and shade in intriguing ways. This titanium-cased Alternative Pavé version of the Orlinski takes the faceted concept to the next level by adding 312 finely faceted diamonds into the mix. There are 156 diamonds, set in…

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10.12.2018

VIDEO: Timeless style in a 21st century body – the Rado DiaMaster Petite Seconde

Rado’s DiaMaster Petite Seconde is a great contender for a go-to daily wearer, as it offers a pretty good taste of both worlds. The style is restrained without being boring — there are heritage touches there, like the leaf-shaped hands and small seconds, but it’s also pleasingly up to date in terms of fine design details and current colour palettes. Where Rado really stands out, though, is with the strength of the case. And here I mean that literally, as the case is ceramic, and pretty much scratch-proof. The movement, as with most of Rado’s modern movements, is solid, too,…

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08.12.2018

VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking 

This watch is pure flex. And not just because it’s a beast on the wrist, thanks largely to that hugely tall domed sapphire crystal. No, the reason the Breguet Tradition 7047 is such a power watch is the movement. Not only is there a whopping great tourbillon whirring away — taking up the top half of the dial — but there’s one full-on fusee and chain mechanism going on at the bottom of the dial. This very old regulating method is very technical and very cool. For me it also takes the Tradition collection’s ongoing juxtaposition of old school watchmaking know-how…

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07.12.2018

NEWS: Longines opens first Melbourne boutique on Collins Street, and these are our 5 picks that are in-store right now

The Australian watch retail landscape has been booming recently, with plenty of new boutique openings. The latest is Longines, which has just opened a 174-square metre store with a prime position in the heart of Collins Street, Melbourne’s premier luxury shopping strip. And while the look and feel of a new boutique is always cool (and given that it’s Longines, this one will be elegant too), really, when a new boutique opens, we’re primarily interested in one thing: Watches. So here are our five picks … The Heritage 1945 Longines is justifiably famous for their heritage collection, and this cinnamon-strapped…

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07.12.2018

VIDEO: Seiko’s latest Astron is big, blue and very cool

We’ve spent a bit of time this week going back and forth over the finer points of Seiko’s latest Executive Sports Astrons, from the blingy SSE170J to the tennis-y SSE174J. Today, we’re having a look at another member of the family, which is, I have to say, my pick of the bunch: the blue-detailed SSE167J. Not only am I a sucker for a blue dial, but, for me, that glossy, three-dimensional ceramic bezel is a winner. Having said that, the surprise hit for me was that small mother-of-pearl second time zone display. Mother-of-pearl (or MOP to its friends) is a…

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06.12.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Ellen, Patek, Omega and Ryan Reynolds 

At this point it’s not news to state that Ellen DeGeneres is, in addition to being a talk show host par excellence, possessed of exceptional taste in watches. From vintage Daytonas to what appears to be most of Patek Philippe’s complicated catalogue, Ellen has some truly outstanding taste (I mean, seriously, when will she appear on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches?). And so when catching up on the latest clip, my eyes are always firmly on the wrists. And this time around, her chat with Ryan Reynolds certainly didn’t disappoint. Not only was Mr Pool (conspicuously not wearing Piaget) wearing (and wearing…

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06.12.2018

VIDEO: The old world charm of Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde 

Watches — the best watches at least — do more than tell the time. They transcend their function to evoke an atmosphere or a mood. Tissot’s latest heritage piece, the Petite Seconde, is a quite wonderful example of this. Sure, it’s a 42mm steel piece with a classic manually winding movement, and a pretty classic dial. But it’s actually a lot more than that. It’s like a warm, shining pebble on the wrist, a watch full of gentle curves and pleasing details. Like the daily winding of the movement, or that dial, it’s got a soft, almost satiny brushed finish…

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06.12.2018

VIDEO: Breguet’s grand Tradition

The Tradition is a very special watch in Breguet’s prestigious collection. The brand is renowned for their classic style and peerless heritage. The Tradition collection — which debuted in 2005 — epitomises these values while managing to look effortlessly modern. It’s quite a feat. The traditional elements are easy to define — the engine-turned dial, the fluted case, the Breguet hands, that winding rotor. All details that speak directly to Breguet’s past. What makes the watch feel so modern is a little harder to define. There’s a few obvious tells, like the larger size and the use of silicon. And…

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05.12.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: How to wear two-tone (and not look like Gordon Gekko)

Editor’s note: Ah, two-tone, for when one tone isn’t enough. Steel and gold is a combination that certainly enjoys the vicissitudes of fashion, and it’s clear that it’s having something of a moment right now. But how to wear it, that’s the tricky bit. Read on for our horological, sartorial stylings …  Now, if you’ve watched my review of the Tudor S&G you’ll know that I’m #team2tone all the way, but the thing is, I don’t *really* know how to wear it. I mean, I think I’d be OK in more formal settings — just pair it with a suit…

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03.12.2018

HANDS-ON: Ready for anything – the Seiko Astron SSE170J1

Seiko’s Astron (the new GPS one, not the groundbreaking quartz one) is a pretty incredible piece of kit. Ostensibly, it tells the time, day, date and a second time zone. But the trick is in the method. The Astron, thanks to GPS technology, keeps track of time by talking to satellites — a quite cool party trick. Given its go-anywhere accuracy and automatic time zone adjustment, it makes sense that the Astron is billed as an adventure watch for the travelling set. And never has that been more apparent than with this watch. Don’t mind the ‘Solar Executive Sports Series’…

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01.12.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001 in rose gold with chocolate dial

Editor’s note: There’s really no reason to be talking about this watch at the moment. It’s not new, and it’s certainly not easy to get. But it’s also a rose gold Nautilus. So there’s that.  There was a lot of fuss about Patek Philippe’s new watches this year, with the eyebrow-raising Calatrava Pilot  and their much more on-brand split-seconds chronograph. If Patek made music rather than watches, the Pilot and the split-seconds would be their latest album’s lead singles. Big, highly produced and attention-grabbing. Initially, they’re the only songs getting played. After a little bit of time and reflection though, we…

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30.11.2018

VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Military

Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that’s down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that’s not to say that…

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30.11.2018

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition SPB085 

Over the last few years, Seiko has made a habit of releasing limited editions with exceptional enamel dials at very reasonable prices. First, there was the Moonlit Night, then the Shippo enamel, and now, the Urushi Byakudan-nuri. The vehicle for these delicate, incredible dials is the Presage collection. A classic round steel watch that marries dependability with dressability. But really, this 40.5mm case, and the 6R21 movement behind it are known quantities, and not what we’re here for. Honestly, we’re here for the dial. As is common with Seiko’s watches, especially the special, limited ones, there’s a story to this…

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29.11.2018

VIDEO: The Longines Skin Diver Watch

Longines heritage reissues are — much like the designs they’re inspired by — the stuff of legend. And speaking of legends, you might notice that the dial design of the Skin Diver resembles that of the Legend, with distinctive hand sets and long hour and minute markers. That’s because both watches trace their origin back to the Nautilus Skin Diver, Longines’ first dive watch. But while the Legend has an internal bezel, the bezel here is very much your traditional bezel, and black to boot. This, combined with the creamy-toned printing and rich, almost pebbly dial texture (offered on either…

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27.11.2018

HANDS-ON: A butterfly flaps its wings … Bulgari Daniel Roth Papillon Heure Sautante

To talk about this watch, we need to talk about Daniel Roth. Daniel Roth is an immensely talented watchmaker, making his name at Audemars Piguet and honing his skills at Breguet until he left in 1987. After that exceptional grounding, Daniel Roth decided to found his own, eponymous brand, which launched in 1989. With a focus on high-end, complicated offerings, heavy on tourbillons, repeaters and chimes and, of course, that unique squared-off oval shape. And while the Daniel Roth brand — like so many small watchmakers — didn’t make it in the long run, the name lives on. The brand —…

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26.11.2018

HANDS-ON: 150 years of greatness, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 40mm 

The Triple Bridges holds a special place in the history of Girard-Perregaux, as does the tourbillon. In 1867, a watch with three bridges and one tourbillon won a prize for chronometry at Neuchâtel Observatory, and the distinctive design became a de facto logo for the brand. The striking design of the triple arrow-headed bridges is undeniably pleasing, but its origins weren’t aesthetic. Constant Girard conceived this design as a method of ensuring the tourbillon was as accurate as possible. From its initial appearance in 1867, the design evolved, and was patented (with the US Patent Office) in 1884. In 1889,…

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23.11.2018

HANDS-ON: The SBGE215G – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT in titanium

It’s fair to say that much of Grand Seiko’s catalogue leans towards the dressier end of the spectrum — but, of course, there are exceptions, and the SBGE215G is a perfect example. This sporty GMT is an evolution of the SBGE201G; it shares the same large 44mm case. But while the SBGE201G had a steel case, the 215G is cased in high-intensity titanium, and I can tell you that on a watch of this brawn, the lighter weight of titanium makes a real difference on the wrist. There’s also been a change to some of the dial details: the hands…

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22.11.2018

NEWS: Step into Seiko’s Melbourne boutique Presage Bar for a Cocktail Time

Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time is a family of watches that’s been having something of an extended moment. These dressy watches are inspired by iconic cocktails and famous mixologists. While they’ve existed since 2010, things really kicked off when the model became part of the global Presage family in 2017. At the core of these watches are the vivid and varied dials, something that is a Seiko strong point. And, of course, with dial options come strap options. Which brings us to the Presage Cocktail bar kit — which is serving up delicious Cocktail Time straps (not drinks, sadly) in Seiko’s…

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22.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 everyday casual watches for under $10k

Editor’s note: While people who collect/amass/hoard watches might find it hard to believe, most people have only one or two good watches, and those watches need to do a whole lot of things beyond tell the time. One of the most crucial things is they need to fit into your life, be able to handle ongoing, daily wear without skipping a beat, and look good while doing it. So, here you go.  Are you under sartorial pressure in your nine to five? Feel the need to up your office attire? Well, we can’t help you with suits and shoes, but…

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21.11.2018

INSIGHT: Omega’s watchmaking in the modern age

In the constant cycle of new releases, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that watches are machines built to last for generations — with a little regular care and love. And while you and I might be there obsessing over the year’s hottest release, or wondering what’s coming next, Omega takes a longer view. Which is only to be expected, given that over their 170-odd years of history, watchmaking technology has changed quite a bit, and Omega has kept pace with this change, every step of the way. And while in the first half of last century they…

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20.11.2018

LIST: Cleared for launch – 4 space watches that aren’t the classic Speedmaster

I’ve been a little spacey recently — and not just because Andrew has been reliving the glory of holding Gene Cernan’s Speedmaster, and First Man is on our must-watch list. On top of that, I’ve recently re-watched the excellent Hidden Figures and cracked the spine on Andy Weir’s The Martian, which probably means I’m part of the wider #marsorbust zeitgeist. After all, it’s an exciting time to be interested in space, as it’s a space that’s becoming increasingly global and democratised. And of course, for Time+Tide, more space means more space watches — which is something we can get behind. So,…

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19.11.2018

HANDS-ON: Seriously fun, the gold and steel Omega Seamaster 300M Diver

I’ve got to say, for a watch born in the middle of the ’90s, the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver is looking pretty glorious. Partially that’s down to the fresh facelift and major internal upgrade, but it goes deeper than that. The SMP — as it’s known — knows what it is, and revels in that identity. And nowhere is that dual nature of flashy meets functionality more evident than this steel and yellow gold beauty. The flashy elements are immediately apparent — it’s hard to miss that striking black and gold bezel, the golden crown and (re-worked) helium escape valve.…

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19.11.2018

VIDEO: Bare bones — the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph

For all that skeletonised watches are meant to be about reducing mass, the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch with a lot of substance, and much of it ceramic. The case, middle, bezel and bracelet are all made from Rado’s signature material, and have been treated with a range of processes — keeping it interesting on the wrist. Though having said that, the dial also does a fine job in the ‘interesting’ department. Sure, you get a peep into the inner workings of the automatic chronograph movement, along with a quite legible handset, but what I really like…

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18.11.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: Time to learn — the watch industry’s next great challenge

The watch industry is — make no mistake — an industry, driven by bottom lines and production schedules. It’s also a deeply traditional craft with a long and rich lineage. A lineage fine watch brands are exceptionally proud of. And business — by and large — is good. So why are an increasing number of leading watchmakers, brands, and watchmaking bodies worried about an impending crisis? In this article for The New York Times, Robin Swithinbank explores an unintended consequence of the growing popularity of mechanical watches — the death of skills, knowledge and appreciation of the fine art of…

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17.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 10 actors wearing the hell out of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Editor’s note: Few watches are as effortlessly elegant and stylish as the venerable Reverso, which is perhaps why they’re a go-to choice for those who strut the silver screen. Don’t believe us? Here are 10 proof points … I’m no prop master, but I know when I’d reach for a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso to dress a character’s wrist. It would be when they had a scene in a suit. It would be at a point in their character trajectory when they were at peak confidence, when their outward style is tapping into the classic, the iconic, the timeless. And also when…

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16.11.2018

VIDEO: It’s a kind of magic – Hublot’s Big Bang Red Magic

“Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.” I’m fairly sure Arthur C. Clarke didn’t have Hublot — or even watches — in mind when he made the now famous futurist statement. But it’s certainly something that rings true for Hublot’s latest ceramic marvel. Because while most watch fans are familiar with the use of ceramic in horology these days, there’s still an aura of power and mystique around this oh-so-red watch. We’ve seen polished ceramic before, and we’ve seen red ceramic before (though none-so-vivid as this), and we’ve certainly seen Big Bangs before. But the combination of all three…

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15.11.2018

INTRODUCING: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt

Here at Time+Tide we have a soft spot for smaller brands that are built on passion. Oak & Oscar definitely fits that bill. Chase Fancher (the man behind the brand) has made a series of retro-ish classics with loads of thoughtful details — the sort of details appreciated by true believers. These details are still very much apparent on Oak & Oscar’s Humboldt, a solid 40mm steel three-hander that’s built with adventure in mind — quite literally, in fact, as the watch is named after 18th century explorer and scientific traveller Alexander von Humboldt. The dial, offered in either charcoal…

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14.11.2018

HANDS-ON: The audacious Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic

When it was announced last year, I thought Hublot’s Orlinski case was one of the freshest, coolest new shapes I’d seen in quite some time. And then they went and released it in blue ceramic and I quietly lost my mind. But before we dive into the blue, let’s have a quick refresher on just what — or who — an Orlinski is. Richard Orlinski is a French contemporary artist, known for his bright, poppy, faceted sculptures. In this partnership, Orlinski has brought his geometric approach to Hublot. Fundamentally, the Orlinski Hublot is a classic fusion — a two register…

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12.11.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic

The story in a second: It’s big. It’s red. It’s Hublot. Red is a colour with some pretty specific cultural meaning — danger, passion, excitement and love. And most of these emotions or associations are pretty applicable (danger, not so much) to Hublot’s latest hot piece, the Big Bang Unico Red Magic, a statement piece par excellence that impresses on so many levels. The case Yeah. We’ve got to start with the case. There’s just no avoiding it. This is an incredible watch case on many levels, including sheer brightness. This is a case that definitely lives up to the…

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12.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Seiko’s green, mean fighting machine – the SLA019J1

Editor’s note: Over the weekend, the GPHG was held in Switzerland, and Seiko took home the gong for best sports watch for the SLA025, which got us thinking about another excellent diver from this year, the not so lean, but very green Marinemaster redux, the SLA019J1 … With another contemporary nod to Seiko’s original hi-beat diver – the 1968 ref. 6159 – a familiar face has received a limited-edition update. Based on the venerable Seiko MM300 dive watch, this commemorative limited edition not only pays tribute to its vintage inspiration with a host of updates, but also to the lush…

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11.11.2018

HANDS-ON: Even sportier, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur in blue 

It’s fair to say that there’s a fresh new breeze blowing in Ulysse Nardin’s sails these days. There’s a new energy, which has resulted in some great new designs, and refreshed takes on old classics. Case in point is the Torpilleur, a marine chronometer styled watch, which takes its name — appropriately enough — from agile torpedo boats. It’s a watch we’ve looked at before, but the latest configuration is, if you’ll pardon my colloquialism, freaking hot. The blue dial is rich and satiny thanks to the starburst finish, crisply painted with white Roman numerals. The dial layout is neat,…

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10.11.2018

LIST: The 16 winning watches of 2018, according to the GPHG

If you care about watches, Geneva is the place to be right now. The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (better known to its friends as the GPHG) has recently wrapped, and a prestigious jury of who’s who in watchland has determined what the best watches of the year are. Well, at least the best watches of the year that were submitted by their makers for consideration, which is a much smaller pool, notably free of crowns and calatravas — but that’s another story. Anyway, the submitted watches were divided into 12 categories, including some obvious ones like men’s and women’s,…

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09.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra – is it the only watch you need? 

Editor’s note: For someone who loves watches, it’s a horrible question to ask, and one that hopefully remains hypothetical. But the short answer is, yes, you could definitely get away with wearing one of Omega’s lovely new Aqua Terras for the rest of your life. The follow up question is … which one?  One of the secrets of the Omega Aqua Terra’s success is its versatile charm. In its dark-dialled and gold incarnations it’s super dressed-up, but put it on a leather or rubber strap and it becomes a much more casual proposition. This is a watch that could pull…

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08.11.2018

HANDS-ON: Seiko’s Save The Ocean — Tuna style — with the Prospex SNE518P

A little while ago Seiko lifted the lid on a tasty trio of dive watches with a marine conservation theme: a turtle, a samurai and a solar chronograph. All united by a gorgeous, graduated blue dial, inspired by both the blue of the sea and its mightiest inhabitant, the blue whale; these summer-suitable divers sure have plenty of presence on the wrist. But not as much presence as the newest member of the Save The Ocean clan — the appropriately nicknamed Tuna can variant, the SNE518P. Now, in case you’re not all over your Seiko dive nomenclature, the ‘tuna’ family…

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07.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Bulgari shows their dangerous side with the Octo Ultranero

Editor’s note: The Octo is so hot right now, which is kind of odd considering that the design is decades old, and has been in Bulgari’s stable since 2010. And while much of the glory has (deservedly) been laid at the slender feet of the Octo Finissimo, the ‘regular’ Octo is no slouch in the looks department either. Just take this inky black and blood red stunner as an example … Bulgari has unveiled some of their latest collection in advance of Baselworld, and we were lucky enough to get our hands on a few key pieces. One model that particularly…

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06.11.2018

HANDS-ON: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Date — a happy middle ground

There’s a lot of options in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris collection. But I think this one might be my favourite, the Polaris Date. It’s a choice purists might find a little weird. After all, this is an uncomplicated watch, lacking either the classic alarm or the more impressive chronograph/world timer functionality. And while it’s not particularly complicated, it’s not entirely uncomplicated. I’m committing that most cardinal of watch nerd sins — opting for a watch with a date window. Really, though, I think the Polaris Date is the key piece in the Polaris collection. It’s got a lot going for it. First…

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06.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Bare metal – Tudor’s Black Bay Steel

Editor’s note: Colour is great, but sometimes all you need is the pure simplicity of unvarnished (but very nicely brushed) steel. Which is exactly what the pared-back Black Bay Steel offers. In spades.  The story in a second: When the going gets tough, wear a Black Bay Steel. Did you know that this year the Black Bay family is five years old? Well, it is, and the fundamental design isn’t showing any signs of flagging. Case in point is this watch, which represents the Black Bay stripped back to its essentials. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel. The case There’s…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre, watch, JLC 05.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: An exercise in subtlety – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon

Editor’s note: I really don’t need a moon phase (heck, I really don’t need a mechanical watch, but that’s something else entirely), but I really want one. There’s just something so pointlessly romantic about the whole proposition of knowing your wax from your wane that just gets me (in fact, that same sentiment applies to mechanical watches in general). And one of the most charming options in recent times is this beauty from JLC …  ‘Novelty’ is one of the most abused words in the watch industry. Practically, it’s used to describe the steady stream of new models and designs…

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05.11.2018

MY MONTH WITH: A beaten-up Omega Seamaster 300

A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a month or so. Now, unusually for me, this wasn’t a PR sample or anything, but an actual real watch, that I borrowed off a mate who wanted to try one of my watches on for size. Now, I’m typically hesitant to do this, as I would hate something to happen to the watch when it’s in my care. “Don’t worry,” said my mate, “I’m not precious.” Somewhat comforted by these words, I made my way to a local cafe to complete the hand-off. Several coffees and…

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04.11.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: 10 tools every watch guy needs

It would be a mistake to assume that a love of watches is just a love of watches. What might seem like a casual interest or hobby, can, when left unchecked, become a fully blown lifestyle — resulting in everything from apparel (hands up who has a watch brand hat or five in the cupboard), through to drawers full of straps and other, more esoteric, paraphernalia. It’s this last bit that our friends over at Fratello address in this excellent, and dangerously informative list, which is perfectly timed for the holiday period. Excuse me while I head over to eBay…

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03.11.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Sick of waiting for that Patek? Here are 5 watches you could get instead

Editor’s note: ‘Wait list’ might well be the phrase of the year for watch fans. Demand, especially on steel sports watches, has seemingly never been higher, with mere mortal consumers faced with two options. A healthy wait, or a hefty premium. I originally wrote this piece around a year ago, and some of my (then) more readily available alternatives are now in high demand. Not as high as the Nautilus though … You don’t need to sell us on Patek’s 5711/1A. It’s the Nautilus. In fact, you might go so far as to say it’s the steel sports watch. The…

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02.11.2018

VIDEO: An ideal daily diver, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic 

Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe is one of those rare, chameleonic watch designs. A watch that, broadly speaking, owes great fidelity to its primogenitor, but a watch that doesn’t look dated. It’s a neutral watch — something that gives the Bathyscaphe broad appeal and great versatility. In steel, it’s a classic, traditional dive watch, but here, in black ceramic, it’s something much more modern in style. And the execution of the ceramic really is gorgeous. Crisp lines, even brushed finishes, really lovely stuff — the material is finished like metal, but with ceramic’s advantages of light weight and scratch resistance. No matter how you…

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31.10.2018

VIDEO: Looking back to the future with Rado’s Tradition Captain Cook Mark III

The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it’s time for the other side of the coin, the modern take on an old classic. Meet the Rado Tradition Captain Cook Mark III. On paper, it’s a titanium-cased diver with an internal bezel. On the wrist, it’s so much more. The titanium case is large (46mm large), but not overwhelmingly so, thanks to a curvy, lugless case design. And while the Mark II is reflection city, this guy sucks up the light like nobody’s business, thanks to the super-hard matt finish. The…

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31.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono – greater than the sum of its parts?

Editor’s note: The thing I love most about Tudor is their capacity to surprise. They get me every single time. I mean, every time a new watch is announced I know it’s probably going to be a Black Bay, but they still manage to defy expectations. And that’s exactly what they did last year, with the announcement of the BB Chrono, which took the heritage diver to a whole new, complicated level. Is it too early to start thinking about Basel 2019?  Over the years, Tudor has proved their mastery of a particular genre of historically revisionist bricolage — most obviously…

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30.10.2018

VIDEO: Diving into the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III

Earlier this year, Blancpain announced the third generation of their charitable champion — the Blancpain Ocean Commitment III, a limited edition take on their iconic Fifty Fathoms. And while previous versions have distinguished themselves by being ceramic and Bathyscaphe, this time around we were treated to a regular (and regularly sized) Fifty Fathoms, in that most democratic of case materials — steel. There is a common link to previous BOCs, though, in the rich and rewarding blue dial, emblazoned with an Ocean Commitment logo at the six o’clock position. It’s a really great watch, which looks good on the wrist,…

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29.10.2018

VIDEO: Seiko’s Australia-only limited edition, and how to get your hands on one (for a good cause)

There are few things we like more than a limited edition Seiko, and one of those things is a limited edition Seiko that has been made specifically for the Australian market. Which is lucky, because that’s exactly what the Seiko Prospex SNE520P is — an 800-piece series made just for the land down under. And really, the choice of watch makes perfect sense — after all, a solar-powered diver is just the sort of watch you want for a country renowned for its high ratio of both sun and surf. On top of that, there’s the green and gold colour…

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29.10.2018

VIDEO: The Rado Heritage Captain Cook Tradition Mark II – when 37mm packs a big punch

Last year, Rado had a breakthrough, heritage-inspired hit with their Captain Cook, a slightly quirky 37mm diver. This year they’ve doubled down on the Captain, with the Mark II, a curvy, funky ’60s-inspired diver. The heritage look is really strong, from the super-polished cushion case, through to the super high crystal and the era-appropriate dial details, like the broad hour markers and internal bezel. Though I think what I like most about this Rado is, funnily enough, the bracelet. So often the bracelet is an afterthought, tacked on at the end. But Rado have clearly thought this one through. It’s…

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27.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at the best heritage releases of 2017

Editor’s note: Heritage is no longer a thing of the past — it’s here to stay. Retro-inspired watches are no longer just a little something extra tacked onto a product category, they’re an increasingly important, mainstream part of the product offering. It’s also a design trope that’s become increasingly diverse, incorporating near 1:1 reissues, all the way down to thoroughly modern offerings with a vintage twist. Last year, we rounded up 10 of the best watches that looked to the past. And now, as we’re thinking about this year’s crop of reissues, we thought it was a good time to…

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26.10.2018

VIDEO: A classical beauty – IWC’s Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” 

When you’ve been around for 150 years you can afford to take the long view when it comes to the vagaries of fashion and trends, and start to take some perspective. Perhaps this is why IWC’s celebratory anniversary collection is jam-packed full of classics, like this Portugieser. A round gold watch in the classic style, with a beautifully simple dial design — Arabic numerals and leaf hands look the business, especially on the rich white lacquer dial that is a hallmark of the “150 years” limited editions. The only thing that bucks convention is the size — at 43mm, the…

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26.10.2018

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s dressy GMT – the SBGM235

Most of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are built around one base — the 9S calibre, which turns 20 years old this year. The brand has celebrated with a series of limited editions, and this, the SBGM235, is the latest. Coming from the brand’s elegance collection, the SBGM235 follows the same fundamental form as the cream-dialled SBGM221, with a 39.5mm round steel case, and the 24 scale nested neatly inside the typically faceted and polished Grand Seiko hour markers. And while the fundamental design of the watch may be familiar, it’s the details that stand out. On the back, the 9S66…

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25.10.2018

HANDS-ON: Big-hearted – the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase

Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it’s because there’s a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of power, but partially I think the joy is simply because this large 45mm red gold watch just feels great — heavy, substantial and downright powerful. At its heart, the Portofino is a dressy watch. Simple, refined, with a curvaceous case inspired by the pocket watches of…

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24.10.2018

HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it – the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT

Quartz isn’t something that comes across my desk too often, so you know when it does that it’s something special — and this Grand Seiko is definitely something special. There’s a handful of truly exceptional, iconic quartz movements out there, and the 9F is amongst the finest. And now, with the addition of a GMT, the 9F just got that much cooler. So before we get to the watch, let’s talk about what makes the movement so special. This year, the 9F turns 25, and it is — in the best way possible — completely over the top. It’s super accurate (regular…

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23.10.2018

IN-DEPTH: Perfectly suited to summer – the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

The story in a second: The sportiest member of the Portugieser family is busy living its best life. IWC’s Portugieser family is, large diameter aside, a fairly dressy affair. Classic style, leaf hands, all that jazz. It’s the classic business watch. Except, of course, for the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a watch that is business casual at best. The Yacht Club Chronograph is a timepiece in tune with its fun side, the sort of watch that can transition seamlessly from business to party. And looks great doing it. The dial Slate grey, which is the formal name of this dial,…

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21.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back on the greatest Rolex releases of the year

Editor’s note: Well, it’s October, so it’s fair to say that the year is — like the mainspring of a watch left on the bedside table for most of the weekend — slowly winding down. And for watch-loving folks, this means three things: One, we can start reviewing the year that was. Two, watches released this year are *theoretically* now available, though that’s not exactly the case with Rolex these days. And three, we can start hoping and dreaming about 2019. So, what better time to share our favourite Rolex releases. What a time to be alive! Cola was the hot topic…

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20.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five – still one of the best value offerings for the price

Editor’s note: The Divers Sixty-Five from Oris might be a few years old now, but that in no way, shape or form makes it any less of an excellent watch. In fact, as far as bang-for-buck entry-level Swiss automatics go, it’s still hard to beat the retro style and solid quality of this everyday diver. Story in a second No risk of second-album syndrome here – this slightly larger take on the Divers Sixty-Five is a worthy, if slightly more mainstream, follow-up to the original release. There must be something good in the water at Hölstein, because Oris has been…

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19.10.2018

LIST: The watches we bought because someone told us to

Humans are, by and large, social creatures. We thrive in communities, and derive strength, support and inspiration from others. At least, that’s the view if you’re an optimist. If you’re a glass half empty kinda person, feel free to replace the word community with mob. Either way, these broad general principles apply to watches. The true lone wolf is rare, and most of us look to others for our wrist-based inspiration and validation. And it’s true of us, too. Come with us, as the T+T team share the tales of watches they bought because other people told them to. Cam’s…

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18.10.2018

HANDS-ON: Fancy a date? How about the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Surely there is no more contentious complication in the world of watchmaking than a seemingly humble date display? It’s hard to believe that something so useful, and seemingly ubiquitous, can be so divisive. One way to end the date/no date feud is to include it, but with a twist. And a twist is certainly what the Tangente neomatik 41 Update offers. The date is shown in the radial fashion, at the outermost extremity of the dial — already alleviating the issue of a dial-disfiguring date window, and working with the Nomos’ signature pared back vibe. And the Tangente, with its…

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17.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The 6 most overused words in the watch industry

Editor’s note: I first wrote this story back in April 2017. And, in those more innocent days, I hoped I’d become a better person and not abuse those old favourites of the watch world. But you know what? Today I hang my head in shame. In the 18 months since this first published, I’ve written about innovation and icons a-plenty. I can be better. I will try to be better. This I pledge. A large part of my job is sifting through press releases. After a while they all start reading the same, thanks to the seemingly limited vocabulary of…

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17.10.2018

NEWS: Breitling is the latest member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, and why it matters

If you’re not familiar with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (AKA the FHH), it’s one of the industry’s peak bodies, founded in 2005 to promote fine watchmaking in Switzerland and across the world. It’s an organisation with 43 partner brands, the most recent being Breitling. This development should come as no massive surprise if you’ve been following the recent developments around Breitling, spearheaded by Georges Kern, who stepped away from Richemont to take Breitling’s top job. Mr Kern has worked his trademark magic on the blue-chip brand, seriously shaking up the Saint-Imier-based manufacture, including a streamlined product offering. And…

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16.10.2018

INTRODUCING: Smaller, but still smart – the Montblanc Summit 2 

One thing you can be sure of with smart/connected watches is the regular (if not annual) upgrade. It’s true for all the big players in the space, and the luxury sector is no different. And today Montblanc announced their latest — the Summit 2. The topline summary is: smaller, faster and more versatile. And there’s also a new, chronograph-esque form factor. The watch is down to a very wearable 42mm, a welcome downsizing from the 46mm case size of the first generation offering. It’s offered in a range of case materials — steel, titanium, black DLC, and a stealthy take on…

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15.10.2018

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph – sporty, steel and oh-so stylish

It’s hard to overstate the significance of the Polaris collection for Jaeger-LeCoultre. In a world dominated by the round steel sports watch, JLC’s line-up has leaned heavily towards the dressy and rectangular. The Polaris, a fully evolved collection, changed that landscape overnight, and did it in style. One of the strongest offerings is the chronograph. It’s a watch that does a lot of things right, many of which should be immediately apparent. First of all, there’s the size — 42mm is just about right for this sort of sporty classic style, and at 11.9mm high it’s not as top heavy…

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15.10.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: Jean-Claude Biver looks back at TAG Heuer … and to the future

Jean-Claude Biver is one of the watch industry’s enduring forces — a charismatic leader who looms, larger than life, over much of the modern history of the Swiss watch industry. So, as you can imagine, it was big — and surprising — news when it was announced a few weeks ago that Mr Biver would be stepping back from his day-to-day responsibilities as President of the LVMH Watch Division (and TAG Heuer CEO) in favour of a new role: Chairman of LVMH Watchmaking Division. What exactly this somewhat ambiguous new title means is the big question. And luckily it’s a…

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12.10.2018

VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X

Most of the watches we talk about here at Time+Tide are mechanical — if there’s a battery involved, the watch has to be pretty special to get our attention. Well, Seiko’s Astron meets (and exceeds) the ‘pretty special’ criteria. The original Astron watch was released in 2012 (well, if you want to get technical, the original Astron was Seiko’s first quartz watch from 1969), and is significant as it was the world’s first GPS Solar watch, a particularly useful pairing of technology, which means that the watch can ‘talk’ to satellites, ensuring perpetual accuracy, and the solar cells on the…

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12.10.2018

VIDEO: The disruptor – a closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic 

Owning a tourbillon is a dream for many watch-loving folks. The little, eternally whirling cages, designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a timepiece’s isochronism, aren’t particularly practical, though they hold within them a charm that in many ways sums up the appeal of mechanical watches. But for many, the dream of strapping the pinnacle of watchmaking’s craft onto your wrist would always be just that — as, traditionally, tourbillons have come with a very high price tag. And while no one is suggesting that $20,000 is pocket change, when TAG Heuer introduced a Swiss, automatic tourbillon at this…

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11.10.2018

VIDEO: Rado’s HyperChrome Ultra Light lives up to the name

For me, the HyperChrome Ultra Light is one of the coolest, cleanest watches in Rado’s collection. Yes, Rado’s heritage collection is earning some serious cred, and their design-y limited editions really showcase their high-tech capabilities. But for me it’s all about the HyperChrome Ultra Light. It’s a regular, round, daily wear watch (and a well-sized one at 43mm) — but with a twist. The watch weighs hardly anything — 56 grams — thanks to the high-tech ceramic and titanium case construction. It also looks good, with a clean, sunburst dial in a chameleonic black-brown colour, and minimal printed details. The…

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10.10.2018

VIDEO: The viper strikes! TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 02 Tourbillon Tête de Vipère

As far as cool watch names go, this watch has one of the coolest: I mean, the head of the viper — it doesn’t get much more rock than that. And while the story behind the name is less viper lounge and more viper observatory, the watch itself easily lives up to its rock star name. It’s big, it’s blue, it’s made of ceramic and has a freaking tourbillon in it. What more could you want? Not much. Even the strap, alligator backed with rubber, is cool. And while the watch is hardly an object lesson in subtlety, I was…

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08.10.2018

HANDS-ON: A Panerai for the suit and tie – the Luminor Due PAM00943

It would be easy to dismiss the Luminor Due — Panerai’s latest fully fledged line — as a collection oriented towards women. After all, it’s the collection that houses 38 and 42mm watches. But the fact that I am on record as being more than a little partial to the 42mm model aside, there are the larger members of the Due family, PAMs 943 and 944 respectively. Both are 45mm steel cases, which sees them aimed firmly at the fellas. If the larger size wasn’t enough of a giveaway, the more subdued colour palette should cinch it. Gone are the…

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06.10.2018

LIST: 5 of the greatest watch moments on Antiques Roadshow

I have a not-so-secret love in my heart for Antiques Roadshow — specifically the UK version, but the US version is pretty good, too. If you’re not familiar with the concept, it’s a show where random members of the public show up and have their junk/priceless artefacts evaluated by a range of hilariously eccentric antiques experts. And while a great part of the joy for me is finding out that creepy dolls can be crazy expensive, really it’s all about that moment they reveal the price and the owner of said crazy dolls (or carpet once owned by someone famous) either…

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03.10.2018

EVENT: Montblanc opens new-look boutique, their 7th in Australia

Last week, Montblanc officially opened their seventh Australian boutique, at Chadstone in Melbourne – Australia’s largest high-end shopping precinct. And I must say that Montblanc looked right at home, nestled amidst some of the largest luxury and fashion names in the world. The brand has a strong presence in Australia, with six other dedicated retail spaces dotted across the country, but none of them looks quite like this — as this boutique has been made in line with their new Neo2 design concept, designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance. It’s intended to be more relaxed, a nice change from the sometimes intimidating…

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01.10.2018

HANDS-ON: The impossible blackness of Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

Few colours have the symbolic weight of black. It’s meaningful in pretty much every culture. It’s associated — naturally enough — with darkness, mourning and solemnity, and with endings and beginnings. It’s also a colour of power and authority. All these associations and emotions are tied up in Moser’s latest conceptual piece, the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Vantablack. Before we get to the greater meaning of this watch, let’s talk about the purely physical: steel case, 42mm wide, in the characteristically scalloped Endeavour case. A broad exhibition caseback shows off the HMC 801, manually wound, equipped with Moser’s interchangeable escapement…

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01.10.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 sports luxury watches that deliver on both fronts

Editor’s note: The watch industry is, in general, pretty big on segmentation. According to them, we should be wearing something different for every different activity in our lives. But that way madness lies. I’m a fan of watches that fit a range of purposes, and ranges don’t come much wider than sports AND luxury. So, in that spirit, here are five of the best … Sports luxury is one of those ephemeral subgenres in watchland that hides a multitude of sins. It’s easy for a watch maker to label any oversized solid-gold diver as sports luxe, but the reality is…

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29.09.2018

LIST: The stories we tell – 5 dinner party watch anecdotes

Watches. Turns out they’re not (just) for telling the time. As horology’s true believers (that is, you lot) will no doubt be aware, watches are more than mere objects. They’re a hobby, a community, and – depending on how far gone you are – a way of life. But this interest doesn’t come without its risks. Once it becomes known that you’re *into* watches, people will start asking you questions, sometimes in public settings. Picture the scene: You’re at a nice dinner party with some friends and vague acquaintances – I’m essentially imagining Cluedo (Clue, for our American friends). Your…

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26.09.2018

INSIGHT: Summer is in sight, so it’s time for the perfect summer watch – like this two-tone Omega Seamaster 300M Diver

While our friends in the Northern Hemisphere are busy layering up and generally bracing themselves (à la Ned Stark) for winter, here in Australia the story is a little different. I’ve been living dangerously for the last few weeks, leaving my umbrella at home, and on a few days I’ve also risked leaving the jacket at home. Spring is most definitely here, and that means that summer, with its long, light evenings and blistering sun, is just around the corner. But I’m presuming you didn’t come here for your latest Bureau of Meteorology updates – you’re here for watches. And,…

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26.09.2018

VIDEO: What makes a travel watch? Exploring Rome with the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting 

A few weeks ago I travelled to Rome to check out the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, a GMT not like any other. And in between the first-look video, horse racing and spectacular rooftop launches, we thought we’d do some sightseeing around Rome and put the V.H.P. GMT through its paces as a travel watch. Now, of all the ‘genres’ of watches, the travel watch is one of the most subjective. There’s no handy ISO standard to hold it against, nor is there a clearly established design tradition. There’s only subjective taste. With that little caveat out of the…

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24.09.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M – 25 years on and still going strong

Story in a second: The much-loved diver just got a serious makeover. Omega’s Seamaster Professional 300M is a true legend of the watch world, a watch that will be eternally associated with Bond – specifically Pierce Brosnan, the Bond who brought the franchise out of the wilderness, and once again into the spotlight. Like I said – legendary. And, as everyone knows, you don’t mess with legends. So I can only imagine that the pressure must have been high in the Omega product department in the lead up to the 25th anniversary makeover of the line, released earlier this year. And,…

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23.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The truth about bezel screws

Editor’s note: After the seemingly despised date window, one of the hottest of hot-button topics in the world of watches is bezel screws. If you say “I really hate it when the bezel screws on a watch aren’t lined up” out loud, it sounds a little ridiculous, but when you really, really care about something, the details all make the difference. But should those screws be aligned? And are they even screws? Read on …  “Such a shame they don’t take the time to align their screws. I wouldn’t buy one purely because of this.” Every time we post a…

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22.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Size doesn’t matter – why 36 should be the new 42

Editors note: I wrote this story back in 2015, and I’m pleased to say that the passage of time has somewhat vindicated my opinion. Some brands, like Tudor, Oris and IWC, have been releasing new 36mm watches with unisex appeal, so the size seems to be catching on. And while the 47mm big boys of the industry are still there, they’re not as omnipresent as they were a decade ago. Is the swing back to smaller sizes a return to sanity, or just another trend?  If you ever have the opportunity to try on a watch made before the ’50s,…

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21.09.2018

VIDEO: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT is a contender for the hottest watch of 2018

Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original Black Bay, to the development of in-house movements, new case materials, and complications like the chronograph, every year brings a new surprise. Based on this track record, I’m always excited to see what Tudor will do next with the Black Bay, not least because of the element of brinkmanship at play. Well, this year Tudor outdid themselves once again with the Heritage Black Bay GMT. It’s a hot watch. Not just because of its obvious good looks — I mean, just look at that bezel…

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21.09.2018

INTRODUCING: Alpina’s Startimer Pilot Heritage – a value-packed GMT with style to boot 

If you think of a pilot’s watch, there’s a good chance you’re thinking of a large round watch, with a black dial and bold Arabic numerals. Well, Alpina’s latest, the Startimer Pilot Heritage, ticks none of these boxes, but that doesn’t make it any less of a pilot’s watch. The design of the Startimer Pilot Heritage owes less to the WWII era that’s commonly the reference point for this sort of watch; instead, Alpina has looked to the ’70s for inspiration, and clearly they found it, in an Alpina alarm watch called the Dispomatic. The 42mm tonneau is funky fresh,…

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20.09.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Ever wondered what watch cinema’s greatest spy wears … 

Forget Bond, Bourne and Ethan Hunt, the greatest spy in the history of the silver screen is English, Johnny English. A secret agent of incomparable style, questionable grace and entirely accidental lethality, played to perfection by the thinking man’s action star Rowan Atkinson. In October, English will return to the screen for the third time, in Johnny English Strikes Again, which sees English once again assume the role of England’s last hope (and only available option), called out of retirement to tackle a cyberterrorist threat. Of course, English is decked out with all the spy essentials: the rocket-equipped car (Jag,…

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20.09.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde 

The story in a second: Tissot’s latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That’s not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that’s reflected in the strength of their current heritage lineup. The latest member is this handsome fella, the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde, a hand-winding hero based on a 1943 design, which is entirely suited to the modern day. The dial…

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19.09.2018

HANDS-ON: Wonderfully restrained – Tudor’s Black Bay 41 Blue 

Now, it may shock you to learn that not everyone wants a watch bedecked with bezels, chronographs, and other functionality to complicate the equation. Some people are just after a nice watch that tells the time, simple as that. If that’s something that resonates with you, the Tudor Black Bay 41 is a watch you should definitely look into. Introduced a few years ago as a 36mm case with a black dial, the collection has since grown to include 32 and 41mm versions, and most recently blue dial options. Today we’re looking at the BB 41, with a blue dial.…

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19.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: So thin, so light – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Editor’s note: For some inexplicable reason we’ve been spending a lot of time thinking about Bulgari’s critically acclaimed Octo Finissimo Automatic. It’s a watch you really need to see in real life to truly appreciate. And while that’s a statement that’s true of all watches, the combination of incredible thinness, lightness and distinctive matt finish makes the act of picking it up and slipping it on the wrist even more critical. Now, if that’s not feasible for you, we’ve come up with the next best thing — a video review. And in case you need more convincing, here’s our long review.…

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18.09.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: 6 award-winning watch choices at the 70th Primetime Emmys

As far as journalism goes, writing about watches isn’t really the sort of high-pressure, down-to-the-wire sort of experience that is common in more mainstream platforms. News rarely breaks in spectacular fashion, and reporting live is uncommon. One exception is seeing what the beautiful people wear on the red carpet. There’s much scouring of images, trying to find wristwear unobstructed by cuffs. And then there’s the next challenge — working out what those watches actually are. It’s hardly the same as reporting on the latest internal machinations of our government, but it’s a change of pace. So, today Dan and I hunkered down…

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17.09.2018

HANDS-ON: Pop a cork and celebrate – the Tudor Black Bay S&G now comes with a champagne dial

Last year’s release of the Black Bay S&G was something of a slow burn. In the heat of the initial announcements, all eyes were on the impressive Black Bay Chrono. As time passed, people seemed to realise what a looker the steel and gold was — no doubt helped by the fact that it was prominently featured on the wrist of none other than David Beckham. Well, this year Tudor released another S&G, with a radiant, golden-hued dial, officially called ‘champagne’ by the brand. We might not have been as surprised by the bi-metal watch as we were last year, but…

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14.09.2018

VIDEO: Like Goldilocks, this Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue is just right

Since its introduction in 2014, Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has quietly been gaining momentum. The tonneau-shaped case sacrifices none of the immediate impact that Hublot is famous for, but shapes it into a more wrist-hugging form. And while the line is — as you’d expect from Hublot — full of options, this smaller, 42mm Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue is a real standout. The case is stunning, with the blue details providing a perfect foil to the richness of the red gold, while the smaller size makes for a watch that you could legitimately wear in…

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13.09.2018

INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 4, you might not think it’s a watch, but it’s definitely a powerful health and fitness tool

Few topics are as likely to induce eye-twitching spasms in horology’s true believers than the the old chestnut, “Is the Apple Watch a watch?” Well, with the announcement of the Apple Watch Series 4, it seems like Apple might be answering that question in a pretty declarative way. Sure, it’s got watch-like functions, but really — really — it’s a health device. Early generations of the Apple Watch seemed to be a little vague in their purpose, almost like they were working out what this cool thing was for as they were going along. The future got a bit clearer…

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13.09.2018

HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil’s latest Freelancer Chronograph looks the business

Raymond Weil’s latest take on their sporty Freelancer Chronograph is – to be blunt – really good-looking. Fundamentally, it’s the same as Freelancer chronos we’ve seen before: 42mm steel case, bulletproof RW500 movement, 12,6,9 subdial layout, day/date and screw-down crown and pushers. It’s a solid piece of kit. What’s new, though, is the colour way. Silver and blue, and plenty of texture to tempt the eye. The panda-esque dial is predominantly silver, with a bright starburst centre and circular grained outer sections, contrasting beautifully with the recessed subdials (including that characteristic frame and single screw around the running seconds at nine).…

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12.09.2018

HANDS-ON: Hublot’s Classic Fusion Titanium Green proves they’re the masters of colour

This week we’re looking at Hublot watches that aren’t the Big Bang. Yep, you read that right. For all that the brand is virtually synonymous with their iconic (or is that iconoclastic?) sports watch, it turns out Hublot isn’t afraid to show their softer side on occasion. You know what else Hublot has never been afraid of? Colour. Both these characteristics are very much in evidence with this stylish Classic Fusion Chronograph in green. First of all, a quick primer on the Classic Fusion line — the collection, introduced in 2010, is intended as a slightly more subtle (dare we…

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10.09.2018

VIDEO: Not for the faint-hearted – Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Rainbow

If anyone was ever to charge me with a unreasonable love of extravagant, gem-set statement watches, the evidence would be easy to find, and damning (Your Honour, I would point to evidence here, here and here, the prosecutor might say). And if I were to continue using the courtroom metaphor, and was allowed to call a key witness in my defence, I’d be calling this watch. The case, a well-sized 42mm tonneau, is in sapphire, already an attention-seeker. Add to that the 54 baguette-cut stones (including sapphires, rubies, amethysts, topazes and tsavorites) in rainbow hues on the bezel and you’ve…

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10.09.2018

VIDEO: Smarter than your average GMT – the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting 

If we’re completely honest, it’s hard to make quartz technology sexy. Which makes the achievement of Longines’ V.H.P. technology even more remarkable. Not only do these quartz Conquests look the part, with clean, slightly sporty style and some very nice dials, the movement ticking away inside has a host of features dedicated to improving accuracy — which, at +5/-5 seconds a year, is pretty hard to beat, outside of an atomic clock. The latest member of the family has just been unveiled in Rome — the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting. As you might expect, it adds a second…

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07.09.2018

VIDEO: “I use it as my daily beater” – Andre and his Longines Greenlander

To most people, The Dirty Dozen is the prototypical misfit movie, starring the late, great Lee Marvin. But to watch fans, it’s something else entirely. In watchland, the Dirty Dozen refers to the 12 suppliers of watch, wrist, waterproof timepieces (the WWW engraving on the caseback) to the British Ministry of Defence during World War II. Some of those suppliers, such as Longines, IWC and Omega, are well-known names today, but others, like Timor, Vertex and Grana, are consigned to those particularly brutal pages of history. But, as with all things military, these watches have a cachet and a cult…

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06.09.2018

HANDS-ON: A classic in its purest form – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 with white and black dials

One of the real hits from Rolex’s 2015 collection was the Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300), a bare bones, simple steel timepiece that was still pure Rolex. Initially offered in a range of youthful, colourful dials, this year the Oyster Perpetual family expanded to include white and black dial variants, and they are, just quietly, awesome. While the case and bracelet are unchanged, it’s worth revisiting them. Of course, the Oyster Perpetual is offered in a wide range of sizes, all the way up to this, the 39mm model, which really will suit a lot of wrists. But if you…

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05.09.2018

VIDEO: “I’m in a back street in Havana and a watchmaker says you should look at this…” – Adam and his Longines Cuervo Y Sobrinos

When someone’s watch story starts in the backstreets of Havana, you know it’s going to be good. In fact, it would be a good story, even if the watch itself didn’t match up to the tale. Luckily for all involved, Adam’s oversized mid-century Longines, double signed with famous retailer Cuervo y Sobrinos, stands up. On its own, the watch is big and attention-seeking, but it’s really the fancy dial that steals the show. Even more so when we learn that the dial is made to resemble a poker chip from the (in)famous Hotel Plaza, which was owned and operated by…

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04.09.2018

INTRODUCING: 5 new Panerai Radiomir 1940s – the Mediterraneo Edition, inspired by the deep blue sea

Panerai has just dropped a quintet of new, boutique-only watches and they are straight fire. These watches, called the Mediterraneo Edition, are all in Radiomir 1940 cases, and include a 42mm steel automatic (PAM00933), a 45mm GMT and a 45mm GMT with power reserve (PAM00945 and PAM00946 respectively), a red gold 45mm automatic (PAM00934), and a large 47mm hand-winder (PAM00932). Now, aside from the cases, what unites all these watches are the dials. The dials on these watches are a gradient blue, produced using an exclusive manufacturing process. These sort of smoky, graduated dials are really on-trend right now, and…

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03.09.2018

HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar – unassuming and awesome

There are few things I love more than a watch that surprises me. It’s something that doesn’t happen near enough for my liking, but it happened with this Longines. It was in the Longines booth at Baselworld, the first day of the fair. Trays and trays of watches had just been laid out in front of us and we were working out what to photograph and focus on. The new Legend Divers, obviously; cool new V.H.P. variants, a really sexy blue and gold Record. Then, the brand representative thrust something from the Master Collection into my hand. Steel, 40mm case,…

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02.09.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Fit for purpose – this is what a NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster X-33 looks like

Editor’s note: Omega’s Speedmaster is famous for being worn in space, but it’s not every day you meet one that has, well, actually been worn in space. Yet, that’s exactly what happened when Andy Green noticed the beaten-up Speedy on an astronaut’s wrist … A little while ago, I was in Sydney attending a conference for my day job. The opening speaker was Ron Garan Jr, a former NASA astronaut, who’s travelled 71 million miles for work, spent 178 days in space, orbited Earth 2842 times and enjoyed a grand total of 27 hours and three minutes taking part in EVAs (extravehicular…

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01.09.2018

LIST: The budget list – 5 great new Swiss mechanical watches from brands you’ve heard of that cost less than $1500

A Swiss watch is a near-universally recognised symbol for quality, precision and tradition. And while that’s all well and good, there’s another thing that fine Swiss watches tend to be synonymous with — and that’s high sticker prices. And broadly speaking that perception is true — I constantly find myself uttering phrases like “this $60,000 watch offers tremendous value”, and Justin recently went into a little bit of detail as to why that’s the case. But, let’s be real here, that sort of watch is for the very few. But you know what? Just because the median price of a…

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01.09.2018

NEWS: David Beckham’s new #BornToDare campaign epitomises the rugged masculinity of the Black Bay Bronze 

In May last year, Tudor unveiled a brand new tagline – #BornToDare – and with it, a suitably daring ambassador, David Beckham. The choice of Beckham was a bold one on several fronts: he’s a bona fide A-lister with massive international star power, propelling Tudor to the next level of mainstream visibility. But beyond that, Beckham is a pretty perfect fit for the brand, as is clearly evident in the newest chapter in the brand’s #BornToDare campaign. Beckham, as captured by noted fashion photographer David Sims, is clad head-to-toe in natural, neutral tones and fabrics – a subdued colour palette…

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31.08.2018

VIDEO: This Seiko Turtle is set to Save The Ocean – the SRPC91K

For Seiko, the turtle power is real. Their recent reinterpretation of the classic dive watch has earned near-universal acclaim, thanks to the triple threat of strong design, stronger build quality and a value offering that’s hard to beat. And while the core collection is outstanding, Seiko like to drop something a little bit extra special every so often. And that’s exactly what this watch is: a special edition with a very special gradient blue dial that works towards supporting an even more special cause. I don’t know about you, but I’d find it impossible not to smile while checking the…

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30.08.2018

NEWS: Rose gold Longines Record nominated for the Petite Aiguille at the GPHG

Editor’s note: The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is the industry’s premier awards ceremony. One of the most exciting (and accessible) categories is the Petite Aiguille, which is open to watches with a retail price between 4000 – 10,000 CHF. The GPHG Jury has selected a shortlist of six watches, from a longlist of 21. The Longines Record in rose gold is one of the watches. It’s an interesting choice: a very classical design, COSC-rated movement and a lovely gold case. And while it’s up against some strong competition, it’s great to see this Longines, which represents something of a…

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28.08.2018

HANDS-ON:  Blue moon rising – Raymond Weil’s Maestro Moon Phase 

Call me a romantic, but the moon phase complication is amongst my favourites. Paradoxically, it’s also amongst the least functional — tracking the waxing and waning of our most significant satellite isn’t something that’s high on my list of life priorities. And when the topic does come up, I can, you know, look at the sky. But, really, that’s not the point of a moon phase. It’s a complication of wonder, one that speaks — on a scale far broader than hours or minutes — to the passing of time. It also reminds you that time isn’t an abstract concept,…

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27.08.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K

The story in a second: Same great watch, brand new dial. The centrepiece of Seiko’s 2018 Prospex collection is, without doubt, the brand new and very blue ‘Save The Ocean’ series, offered in Turtle, Samurai and solar variants. It follows on from the recent Black Series and Blue Lagoon. But while last year’s limited edition was purely a cosmetic update, the Save The Ocean release has an element of social responsibility. Seiko has teamed up with Fabien Cousteau (grandson of Jacques-Yves Cousteau), who is himself a marine conservationist, to raise funds and awareness for Cousteau’s Ocean Learning Centre. Part of…

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23.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Masterfully done – the Longines Master Collection

Editor’s note: If we’re guilty of one thing here at T+T it’s of being magpies. We’re constantly drawn to the latest shiny thing. But, as Andrew found out, that can occasionally be to our detriment. Take, for example, the Longines Master Collection …  When it comes to Longines’ yearly new releases we are like heat-seeking missiles for the vintage fire the brand has at its disposal – few archives are as deep or as versatile as Longines, and it means they can pick and choose between adventurers watches, avant-garde designs, classic dress … the options are almost endless and they impress…

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23.08.2018

VIDEO: One of the greats – the Tissot Visodate

Here at Time+Tide we spend a goodly amount of time talking about the latest watch releases. Well, this isn’t one of those times. Instead, today we’re talking about a stone-cold classic that’s as good today as when it was first released – the Tissot Visodate. The Visodate is an historical reissue of a mid-century watch that was novel for its inclusion of – wait for it – the mighty (and occasionally maligned) date window. While these days the date is de rigueur, it’s easy to forget that back in the day it was a big deal. The re-release honours the…

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22.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course

Editor’s note: A few months ago the watch-loving world went a little nuts for the Speedmaster Ultraman. Many (many) people missed out on copping it, but if your love of retro orange highlights still burns strong, how about this automatic alternative? And while there’s a black dial on offer that looks even more ultra, we’re pretty partial to this silver dial … The case It’s a Speedmaster, so no real surprises with the case. It looks and feels much like every other Speedmaster, except for its contemporary dimensions: it clocks in larger than your regular Speedy, at a not insubstantial…

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22.08.2018

VIDEO: Bulgari’s bright steel Octo Finissimo Automatic is a thing of beauty 

The model that’s emerging as the hero of Bulgari’s watch collection — which is undergoing a serious renaissance at the moment — is the Octo Finissimo Automatic, a simpler, more day-to-day offering than the tourbillons, minute repeaters and the like that also form part of the family. Until earlier this year the Finissimo Automatic was a lonely, single titanium offering. Well, that changed this year when Bulgari gave the award-winning model two handsome siblings, in gold and steel. Now, new metal variants of a popular model is hardly something to write home about, but the execution Bulgari has gone with…

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21.08.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Big sharks and surprising watches in The Meg 

There are three things I want in your classic Hollywood blockbuster: big monsters, bad one-liners and quality watch spotting. And from the looks of it, The Meg has all three. And while it’s a movie that’s very much scheduled to tie in with the northern summer, it’s also one that I feel is close to my Australian heart — and no, not because it’s got Ruby Rose in it. But rather … sharks. Big sharks. We Australians have a bit of a weird relationship with animals that can kill us – equal parts fear and pride. And while our land-based snakes…

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20.08.2018

IN-DEPTH: Ultra-thin heavyweight – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in gold 

The story in a second: Bulgari’s latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your Monday off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it’s Bulgari’s darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now, obviously it’s a gold watch, but it looks and wears like no other gold watch I’ve ever had the pleasure of wearing. The case While the movement and other elements of habillage are important to this watch, really, it’s about the case (and bracelet — more on that shortly). The design,…

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19.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Another look at Seiko’s mightiest diver – the Turtle

Editor’s note: Seiko’s divers are the stuff of legend, and deservedly so. And while their back catalogue is full of more classics than is frankly reasonable, the recent re-release of the so-called ‘Turtle’ stands out. The Turtle offers size, retro style and that indestructible Seiko build in spades, and all for a price that’s seriously hard to beat … Seiko dive watches have a massive — at times fanatical — following. It’s these guys and gals who are responsible for giving the brand’s cryptically coded watches their colourful nicknames – the Tuna, Monster, Sumo and, in this case, the Turtle. Officially, the Turtles we’re…

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17.08.2018

VIDEO: 10 things you’ve always wanted to know about Grand Seiko, but were too afraid to ask …

I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang and verbal shorthand can be confusing at best and exclusionary at worst — it can feel like a club with its very own secret language. And the hardest thing is that the language changes with every brand. Take Grand Seiko, for instance — you have to get your head around reference numbers, specific nomenclature and calibres, not to mention the vast and colourful world of fan-based nicknames. But don’t worry, today we’re here…

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17.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Power player – Panerai’s Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Editor’s note: For all that Panerai has been making a lot of noise recently about their smaller, dressier pieces, let’s not forget they can easily flip the switch to full-on beast mode when the need arises. And they don’t come much more beastly than this mighty 47mm Submersible, looking the business in matt black ceramic and brushed titanium … Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, a big, 47mm titanium beast with antimagnetic innards and an oh-so-sexy ceramic bezel. This powerful diver is a watch entirely in keeping with Panerai’s core values. Fast forward to 2017 and we’ve…

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16.08.2018

VIDEO: The Tissot Swissmatic – a great entry into the world of mechanical watches

This video is all about value. Not only do you get two watch reviews (we’re covering Tissot’s dressy Everytime Swissmatic as well as the sportier V8 Swissmatic), but both watches represent a solid value proposition. The style of these two watches is a pretty by-the-book interpretation of daily dress/sport, depending on which flavour you plumb for, but the Swissmatic movements are something else. Based on the revolutionary Sistem51 from Swatch, the Swissmatics share the same fundamental specs and architecture, but benefit from a more robust — and a completely automated – build. These watches might not have the high finishing…

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16.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Throwback fun with the Oris Chronoris

Editor’s note: Too often watchmaking is perceived (even by people inside the tent) as a Very Serious Business. And, yes, timekeeping is important, but you know what’s more important? Having a fun, fulfilling life. And while it’s a stretch to say that your watch can make your life better, I suspect that the pure hit of unadulterated joy I’d get every time I checked the time on this funk-tastic watch wouldn’t hurt. Cameron explores the pint-sized packet of fun that is the Oris Chronoris … The story in a second: Disco might be dead, but the ’70s live on in Oris’ latest…

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15.08.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic – the most important movement of 2018?

The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume & Mercier were at their best when they were playing with the classics. The Clifton, with its classical proportions, vintage inspiration and strong value offering, is a proposition that was hard to beat. But beat it they did, with the deceptively simple Clifton Baumatic, and its powerful movement. The case An elegantly proportioned case is a hallmark of the Clifton family, and this Baumatic version delivers, with neat and tidy dimensions of 40mm across by…

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13.08.2018

HANDS-ON: The Golden Snowflake – Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive SBGA259

Grand Seiko’s Snowflake (the more evocative name for the SBGA211 née SBGA011) is undoubtedly one of the most popular watches in their line-up, and understandably so. With its titanium case, seductive Spring Drive movement and one of the best-loved dials in the business, it’s remained unchanged (reference number and dial naming convention) since 2010 (see our review and video in case you’re unfamiliar). Part of the appeal is the fact that the watch is as pure as its namesake. The Snowflake is unchanged, untouched and undiluted by case/dial/size/etc variants. Except that’s not quite the case. Meet the SBGA259, a Snowflake…

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12.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: As speculation rises about Idris Elba as Bond, we speculate about 007’s next watch

Editor’s note: Speculation that Big Idris Elba might be the next man to don the Tom Ford tux and strap on the Walther and take over from Daniel Craig as the next Bond has once again reared its head, and honestly this is something we can all get behind (side note, Esquire’s suggestion of Thandie Newton also has serious merit). So we thought we’d revisit this piece on possible Bond watches. Q would be proud. Given his extraordinarily good taste in watches in real life we would love to be a fly on the wall at Omega the day Elba arrives to discuss…

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11.08.2018

LIST: 5 of the best watches from the good old U S of A 

It might surprise you to know that in the first half of the last century, America was regarded as the force to be reckoned with when it came to watches — especially modern, efficient and mass-produced watches. But now, with great legacy brands like Waltham and Illinois consigned to the scrapheap of history, while others, like Hamilton, are part of larger Swiss portfolios, the American watch industry is a shadow of its former self. But that’s not to say that the land of the free and the home of the brave is entirely bereft of local timekeeping concerns. Here are…

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10.08.2018

HANDS-ON: The Longines HydroConquest receives a substantive, stylish upgrade

If we’re guilty of one thing when it comes to Longines watches here at Time+Tide, it’s that we maybe focus a little too hard on their heritage heat. It’s something that Andrew realised a while back when he explored their outstanding Master collection, and it’s something I realised at Basel when I saw the latest generation HydroConquest. Yup, the Longines HydroConquest was the recipient of a pretty serious upgrade in 2018, making the sporty line a serious contender in its price point. This diver, offered as an automatic in 43 and 41mm case sizes, comes in a few flavours: black,…

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10.08.2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date

It’s easy to think of the Carrera as purely a collection of chronographs, as that complication is where its roots and, indeed, heart lies. But for a long time the Carrera has been about more than just sports timers. It’s evolved into something more, a shorthand for sports pedigree and precision. This is the spirit with which the Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date shines. The Carrera look is still there, of course, notably in the 41mm steel case, with those proud lugs and polished bezel. But the heritage is there in the dial — the simple baton markers and matchstick hands aren’t…

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09.08.2018

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Freak Out of the Blue 

Ulysse Nardin recently introduced four new members of its freaky family. With titanium cases and unmistakable style, these watches are known collectively as the Freak Out, and today we’re taking a look at the Freak Out Blue. First, though, a quick primer on the Freak. Conceived by genius watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, the Freak first came to life in 2001. It shocked not just because of its unconventional use of a flying carousel tourbillon to tell the time instead of hands, but also its groundbreaking use of silicon components. Fast forward to today and the Freak is, for all its familiarity,…

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08.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: This Longines is Legen … wait for it … Dary!

Editors note: While I’m not sure that Barney Stinson (the chap from How I Met Your Mother, paraphrased above) would be familiar with the Longines Legend Diver, he definitely should be. Like him, the LLD possesses effortless good looks, easy charm, a youthful energy and slightly playful personality. Honestly, it’s a perfect match … Longines was making stellar heritage reissues well before it was cool. Case in point is the stylish ’60s-inspired Legend Diver, first released way back in 2007. And while it’s become de rigueur for most major brands to release one or two retro pieces a year, the Longines…

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07.08.2018

NEWS: If you’ve ever wanted to buy a gold tourbillon for $3000 you might just be in luck

Auctions can be funny things. Most of the time the coverage around watch auctions tends towards the record-breaking headlines – the most expensive this, that or the other. But sometimes, thanks to the fact that auctions tend to be a crystallisation of market forces, you can find a hidden gem. Which might just be what lot 179 at tomorrow’s (the 8th of August) Sotheby’s Australia Important Jewels and Watches sale will be. This lot is a Habring2 Tourbillon 3D in pink gold, sold by Habring’s Australian distributor in 2015 for $45,000. Sotheby’s Australia has placed an estimate of $2500 –…

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06.08.2018

IN-DEPTH: Colour comes to play with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph

The story in a second: Classic Carrera. More colour. If you spend more than a few minutes in the sometimes crazy world of watches, it’s easy to lose perspective. You can very quickly get caught up in the hullabaloo of new this, in-house that, and proprietary the other. But while all that stuff is cool and sometimes really matters, at the end of the day it’s a watch on your wrist with a job to do. And that job is telling the time and looking good. I think this particular model excels at this job, which is why I chose…

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05.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: GMTs are dynamite in 2018! Here are some of the best

Editors note: Back in Basel it didn’t take long for us to realise that GMTs were everywhere. The complication, a boon for frequent flyers, has always been popular, but the sheer volume of new GMTs this year is something else. So, in the midst of the fair, Andy and I took the time to wrap up some of the standouts. It’s worth noting that this is a far from exhaustive list, as it doesn’t include SIHH or some other notable releases (some of which we can’t talk about just yet), but it’s a solid start … It very quickly became…

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04.08.2018

LIST: Germanic greatness – 8 uber-cool German watches

Last week, Cam — fortified with a strong cup of tea and some crumpets — ran us through eight of the finest watches from British brands. Well, today I’ve had my cold cuts and pumpernickel for breakfast and selected eight of Germany’s most serious timepieces to start you day off right. Now, while Germany might not be the watchmaking powerhouse that their neutral neighbour Switzerland is, they’re no slouches either. The industry is based around two towns: Glashütte, in the east, is the best known, as it’s the oldest centre and home to big names like A. Lange & Söhne, Nomos and…

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03.08.2018

OPINION: Judge not – why you shouldn’t judge someone by the watch on their wrist 

One of my favourite quasi-apocryphal watch tales goes like this: There’s a guy who, for lack of anything better or more pressing to do with his life, decides to yacht-hop his way from home to Australia. Somewhere along the way, his watch (a Rolex, natch) is lost at sea. Upon mooring his boat, said sailor runs a comb through his sun-bleached locks, dons his finest T-shirt, shorts and shoes (perhaps Crocs, though hopefully not), and makes his way to the nearest Rolex boutique. Said boutique, in the manner of snooty, apocryphal boutiques everywhere, treats the intrepid traveller with disdain. The…

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03.08.2018

MY WEEKEND WITH: The Montblanc TimeWalker Date Automatic in the wilds of Queensland

A little over a week ago I found myself paying more attention than usual to the pre-flight safety spiel. Perhaps due to the fact that I was standing in a sunny clearing, looking at a helicopter. “Don’t go near the tail rotor, don’t put your hands up when you get out, and if you lose your hat, don’t worry about it.” Sensible life advice. Half an hour and a hundred-odd kilometres later I found myself looking down at my destination: a sweeping golden-brown field on the top of a mountain — Spicers Peak Lodge. It’s a beautiful location, sweeping vistas…

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02.08.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Date night – in defence of the date window

Editors note: Fancy a date? If you’re single and ready to mingle, this question, when asked by the right person, would likely be met with rapturous approval, but ask someone who’s into watches and the answer is a lot less sure. Few elements of watch design are as contentious as the seemingly innocuous date window. Where some see a useful calendar tool, others see a symbol of all that is wrong with the world. Last year I went into bat for the humble date, and we thought it was about time to revisit it … We’ve got a surprisingly complex relationship…

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30.07.2018

IN-DEPTH: You’ve seen blue dials before, but not like this – the Omega Railmaster in blue denim

The story in a second: Workwear meets watchmaking in Omega’s latest colourful take on the Railmaster. One of last year’s most compelling releases from Omega was the revamped Railmaster. This new take on an old favourite offered winning combination of old-school looks, everyday wearability and a movement with some serious chops. Initially offered in more conservative silver and black brushed dials, we all knew that the day would come when Omega offered some more colourful takes on the genre. Well, that day came recently, when Omega unveiled a new, blue Railmaster that was surprisingly textural. The dial Clearly, this is…

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27.07.2018

VIDEO: The detail in the deep blue dial – Seiko’s Shippo Enamel SPB073

Often the best watches are those that come with a story attached. Sometimes that story can be attached to momentous events or achievements the watch is associated with, or the accomplishments of those who wore it. It can also be a story of how it’s made and who it’s made by. Such is the case with Seiko’s latest additions to their Presage collection — the limited edition Shippo Enamel watches. The form of these watches will be familiar to those who have come across the Presage line before, with its elongated Roman numerals and classical hands. This version, the SPB073,…

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27.07.2018

LIST: 4 reasons why the Santos de Cartier is one of this year’s most effortlessly masculine watches

While you can make an argument for one-watch-per-purpose (a watch for work, weekend, formal occasions, etc), I personally think that versatility is the key to a good watch. Luckily, versatility is something the Santos has in spades, which you might find surprising given that, on the face of it, the Santos de Cartier is a rectangular watch with a white, Roman-numeralled dial. But this latest watch has been designed with maximum user-friendliness in mind. Not only does the watch come equipped with QuickSwitch and SmartLink systems for changing your strap and resizing your bracelet on the go, each watch also…

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23.07.2018

VIDEO: A different sort of Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute 

Jaquet Droz is a brand that has built its reputation on incredible automata and extravagant finishing. Fluttering birds, delicate miniature painting, and exquisite handcrafts are all par for the course for the brand. Which is why this watch, the Astrale Grande Heure Minute, was such a surprise. It’s no less beautiful, but much more spartan in its style. In fact, besides two hands, some tiny hour markers and some words, there’s hardly anything on this dial at all. This Astrale has been pared back to its most essential elements, and I’ve got to say the strength of the design holds…

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21.07.2018

IN-DEPTH: Luxury sports done right – the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton

The story in a second:  Contemporary design and classic size make this a winning combination. It’s no secret that the Defy is Zenith’s darling this year. Baselworld 2018 saw them release a swag of different versions, including the crazy Zero G, the impressive chronograph, and this watch, the comparatively simple Classic. And while it may lack some of the fancy functionality of its bigger brothers, for me the Zenith Defy Classic – particularly this open-worked dial option – is the real winner. The dial You have to start with the dial, don’t you: a modern open-worked number with a bold…

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21.07.2018

LIST: One watch to rule them all – the T+T team choose the watch they could wear for the rest of their lives

Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It’s clearly hypothetical and I’m pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it’s a perennial watch party favourite, and can be pretty fun. It’s also a useful challenge for distilling just what it is you like about watches – it’s like mindfulness for watch nerds. Dan’s pick – A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time My one watch is also my Grail watch. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time. It’s robust enough for…

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19.07.2018

VIDEO: Is the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 the best-value diver of 2018? 

This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can’t think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic 80 movement (more than three days of power reserve rocks) in a good-looking, well-made 300m diver, you get nice little features like the gradient dial and ceramic bezel. So much win. On top of that, it fits great on the wrist: 43mm is big, but not obnoxiously so, especially when paired with the height. Even the dial text and date placement is done right. My…

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19.07.2018

VIDEO: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – a cutting-edge chronograph

Earlier this week we had a look at Zenith’s entry point into the Defy family, the solid-dialled Defy Classic. Well, today we’re going to kick it up a notch with something the brand is particularly famous for — a chronograph. And not just any chrono, but the Defy El Primero 21, a watch that marries the modern silhouette and skeletonised look of the Defy with an awesome movement. The El Primero 21 is an evolution of the revolutionary El Primero, which debuted way back in 1969, when Woodstock was the place to be and Vietnam was not the recreational travel destination…

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17.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Many ways to Black Bay – a video overview of Tudor’s heritage hero

Editor’s note: The latest crop of Tudor Black Bays are beginning to hit our shores, from the hot new GMT to the svelte Fifty-Eight. The perfect time then to look back on a line that fuelled Tudor’s ascendancy to the powerhouse it is today, and was a major influencer in the whole heritage trend. But it wasn’t always the profusion of colours and cases that we have today. Back in the day, the first three Black Bays were real markers of identity, a call to arms for the tribe of Tudor. This video review from last year shows us the…

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16.07.2018

VIDEO: Solid sports style from Zenith – the Defy Classic

In recent times, Zenith have made a marked change of tack — away from the oversized heritage pieces that have been their main focus. The Pilot watches are still there, of course, but now the Defy shares top billing as a contemporary alternative. And while the Defy is dominated by the aggressively skeletonised look that we know and love, this solid-dialled Defy Classic is perhaps my number one pick. The dial does a great job of toning down the statement aspect of the Defy, and letting the excellent case and bracelet shine. To my mind this is a really interesting option…

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14.07.2018

LIST: The entire T+T team tackles the fantasy $20K watch collection challenge …

Late last week, Dan innocently asked a question: “Hey, what watches would you get for $20k?” Let’s just say it opened a can of worms as well as some fast and furious debate. So, in the name of science, posterity and good old-fashioned entertainment, I decided to formalise this challenge. The rules? You have a budget of $20,000 AUD to fill up your fantasy watch box. You can buy as many or as few watches as you like, but you have to spend as close to the budget as possible. Pricing is retail, or market value if the watch is discontinued.…

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13.07.2018

EVENT: 3 ‘Very Rare’ moments, according to Moser’s Bertrand Meylan

In our office it’s easy to get a little jaded to the wrist-sized awesomeness that visits the office on the regs. But last week our sense of wonder was well and truly present as H. Moser’s Bertrand Meylan dropped in before the Melbourne leg of his Australian roadshow. We were blown away because he had with him what seemed to be the entire Moser collection. Venturers, Pioneers, Alps – you name it. He even had a few special pieces that we can’t tell you about … yet. And in between photo sessions (I’ve rarely seen our photographer Jason look happier)…

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12.07.2018

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph for the Goodwood Festival of Speed

Let me level with you. There’s an official tie-in between this watch and the oh-so-English Goodwood Festival of Speed, one of the world’s leading events for motor enthusiasts. I could spend the next few hundred words talking about the synergy between the automotive and the horological (don’t get me wrong, there are real and entirely meaningful links), but for someone who hasn’t been to Goodwood and isn’t a “car guy” per se (I leave that to Andy), the backstory is kind of beside the point. The point being that this is an absolutely awesome-looking watch. First unveiled last year, the…

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11.07.2018

HANDS-ON: The bird is the word – Bell & Ross’ BRV2-94 Racing Bird that is

Every year, the Bell & Ross design team goes nuts with an incredible and (sadly) hypothetical vehicular creation. This year it was the Racing Bird, an awesomely streamlined take on a prop-powered racer, the sort of machine you’d see at the Reno Air Races. Of course, while the plane is conceptual, the watches are very, very real. Built off the base chassis of the vintage chronograph, the BRV2-94 Chronograph is at once modern and gloriously old-school. The case is near perfectly proportioned, 41mm across, though the crown guard and screw-down chrono pushers add a little breadth. It doesn’t sit too…

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10.07.2018

BREAKING NEWS: Is the Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday II” going to drop today?

In January 2017, Omega announced, with zero fanfare, a limited edition Speedmaster, made in collaboration with Fratello Watches, called Speedy Tuesday, named after the popular hashtag. Four-and-a-half hours later, all 2012 watches were gone. Well, hold onto your hats and get ready to flex those credit cards, because it looks like it’s about to happen again. The watch-oriented corners of social media have been buzzing with this intriguing image, part of what looks to be an email signed off by Omega President and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann. This image is also on Fratello’s Instagram with a single word caption: “Wait.” And…

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09.07.2018

VIDEO: Made to be seen – the Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds in Cosmic Green

Regular readers will be unsurprised to learn that we’re card-carrying fans of Moser’s Pioneer line here in the T+T office. Not only does it offer a dressed-down, somewhat less aristocratic option to the Moser family, but it also adds the joy of a steel case. Because while gold is very nice indeed, sometimes you’re happy to ditch the heft and shine in favour of something a little more hard wearing. Now, though, we’re in something of a quandary – blue or green? It was a simpler time when there was but one Pioneer Centre Seconds, with its luscious blue dial.…

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08.07.2018

VIDEO: Old meets new in the Rado HyperChrome Bronze

A few years ago we were prepared to write off the use of bronze in watchmaking as something of a fad, limited to a few cult models. Well. We were wrong. The ancient alloy has boomed in popularity, thanks to its warm tones and, more importantly, the fact that it develops a unique patina over time. And while bronze cases look set to stick around, so far it’s a case material that’s found overwhelmingly in the heritage reissue aisle of the watch supermarket — which makes sense as it’s all about the old world charm. But, really, I think that’s…

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07.07.2018

VIDEO: Grand Seiko 101 – 3 things you need to know 

For years Grand Seiko was a very underground, for-those-in-the-know type brand; its visibility outside of Japan was limited, and its passionate supporters revelled in the arcana of cryptic reference numbers, nicknames and shorthand galore. All that changed a few years ago when Grand Seiko went global, but there’s still an air of mystique around the Japanese brand. So, to help clear a few things up, I decided to run through a short explainer, providing a flying overview of some of the key details, covering off the basics around movements, cases and dials. So, if you don’t know your Snowflakes from…

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06.07.2018

VIDEO: H. Moser & Cie’s 2018 collection brings the heat and of course those smoky dials

Where there’s smoke there’s fire. There’s a lot of truth to that saying, especially if we’re talking about H. Moser & Cie’s famous smoky fumé dials — the latest batch of watches they’re attached to are straight up fire. Take, for example, the Venturer Small Seconds XL Purity. The dial-heavy 43mm watch definitely lives up to its XL name, but it’s with those sparse markings in case-matching red gold and the awesome rhodium dial. It’s one of the most beautiful objects we’ve seen in a while. Of course, Moser’s star power went stratospheric a few years ago when they wittily…

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05.07.2018

HANDS-ON: Everyday simplicity done right – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA375

I’m on the record as being a big fan of Grand Seiko, largely because their approach to watchmaking (the focus on accuracy, timeless design and wearer comfort) really resonates with me. However, I’m more than willing to admit that I buck the trend a little in my preference for the brand’s plainer, less jazzy dials. While I can admire and see the beauty in the iridescent green of the peacock, or the intricacy of the SBGR311 or SBGH267, my personal taste is a little more understated; I can’t see myself wearing those fancy fellas all day, everyday. Now, the SBGA375…

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05.07.2018

HANDS-ON: Gorgeous and grey – the Bulgari Octo Roma

If you’re reading this and thinking ‘grey’ and ‘Bulgari’, I’m welling to bet your mind wanders to this slender beauty. And while that’s entirely understandable, earlier this year we had a look at another, equally alluring take on the Octo — the Octo Roma with an anthracite sunburst dial. The Octo Roma is a fairly recent evolution of the Octo, a dressier, somewhat toned down version, where the octagonal shape that gives the model its name has been softened around the edges — notably with the circular brushed steel bezel — which means the 41mm Octo Roma does a good…

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03.07.2018

INTRODUCING: Getting your hands on the First Omega Wrist-Chronograph is pretty much impossible

When Omega releases a limited edition, you’re fairly safe in betting that it will be numbered in the hundreds or thousands. The First Omega Wrist-Chronograph Limited Edition is a little more limited than that … being released in 18 pieces only, and for good reason. This large 47.5mm chronograph was unveiled by Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann at the Omega Museum in Biel, at an intimate event  celebrating Omega’s rich history (more on that later). This watch is a tribute to Omega’s 18”’ CHRO movement, launched in 1913, an important calibre in the brand’s history, and indeed that of watchmaking in…

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03.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 15 exceptional watches from the Omega Museum

Editors note: At the moment, the Time+Tide team members whose names don’t begin with ‘A’ and end with ‘ndrew McUtchen’ are pretty jelly of Andrew McUtchen, who is, as we speak, ensconced in the bosom of Omega’s home turf, to celebrate an incredible (and incredibly rare reissue of Omega’s first ever chronograph — the handsome looking fella below). We’ll have to wait for Andrew to tell us the whole tale, but until then, feast your eyes on these pretties … We’ve told you about The Night of Omega Firsts. You’ve seen the video of Omega Museum manager Petros Protopapas in…

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02.07.2018

VIDEO: A closer look at the Grand Seiko SBGR311

Grand Seiko’s limited editions are, in their own way, hype machines. They generate huge buzz and are, in the pretty fanatical world of GS enthusiasts, hotter than the proverbial hot cakes. The SBGR311, unveiled in Basel earlier this year, is no exception. Ostensibly, it’s a celebration of the mighty 9S calibre, but it’s also a pretty compelling celebration of how awesome a brown dial can be. I mean, look at this thing — it’s rich, it’s textural, it’s got a super detailed mosaic pattern on it and it’s got gold highlights. If you had told me pre-Basel that I’d fall madly…

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01.07.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Straight up funk – the Rado HyperChrome 1616

Editor’s note: Most of the time there’s a formula to the watches someone likes. Something along the lines of 39 – 42mm case plus steel plus chronograph divided by price equals something I want. But, then again, there are watches that come from left field and knock you out of the park. Rado’s unashamedly large and funky HyperChrome 1616 is one such watch. It’s just so cool.  When we think Rado, we tend not to think chunky, ’70s-inspired dive watch. We’re much more likely to lean towards chic ceramic minimalism, or perhaps this year’s surprise hit, the Captain Cook. Which is why…

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30.06.2018

LIST: 5 impulse buys – the perfect way to spend your tax return

Here in Australia the financial year ends tomorrow, which means that some of us — if we’re lucky/fiscally savvy — can expect a windfall of funds, care of the Australian Taxation Office. Now, if we were really responsible we’d be using that cash to pay down debt and knock off some of those big expenses, but that’s no fun. So earlier this week I set a challenge for the team. Assume you’re getting a return (and because I don’t know too much about my co-workers’ finances, I put an arbitrary cap of $3-4k), pick one watch you could and would buy right…

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29.06.2018

NEWS: You’ve got 3 days to bid on some exceptionally limited Longines to support Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf’s charities

A little while ago we got mildly excited about the fact that Longines were auctioning off a watch (and an awesome experience package) in aid of brand ambassador Kate Winslet’s charity. Well, they’re at it again, only this time with a sporty twist. Longines, along with Steffi Graf and Andre Agassi (who both have been Longines Ambassadors of Elegance for a decade now), have cooked up a one-off set of 10 pairs of Conquest V.H.P. watches to be auctioned off to raise funds for the Andre Agassi Foundation for Education and Graf’s charity of choice, Children for Tomorrow. Well, nine…

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29.06.2018

LIST: 3 perfect Girard-Perregaux Laureatos for 3 types of Australians

Earlier this week, Girard-Perregaux presented their latest and greatest in Sydney. Sadly, Melbourne-based team Time+Tide was not able to attend, but we managed the next best thing — a chat to GP’s man of the moment, Global Marketing and Communications Director, Fabrice Dangeli. Now, Mr Dangeli is a well-travelled man of the world, so rather than ask him the particulars of his new products, we thought we’d pose him a little exercise … Now that the Laureato line encompasses everything from time-only to tourbillons, we thought we’d see if he could pick the right Laureato for three distinct types (or…

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28.06.2018

VIDEO: This is how you do it – 5 standout Hublots of 2018

Perhaps it’s just the football, but we’ve got Hublot on the brain at the moment. And while the Referee watch, with its smart interface and snazzy, over the sweatband look — as rocked by FIFA’s refs — is a winner, it’s not the only one in their arsenal. There’s Big Red, which is what I’ve nicknamed the franky epic red ceramic Big Bang, a watch you need to see to really appreciate. But even if you don’t, take it from us that the shade of red is awesome, and awesomely hard to develop. And then there’s a slightly smaller Bang — the…

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27.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Feeling the winter chill? Spice things up with the hot Heritage 1945 from Longines

Editor’s Note: Simple vintage looks, rich tones, a brushed dial and a cinnamon suede strap to die for, all for a very reasonable price. The Longines Heritage 1945 – it’s the perfect watch to fight off that crisp winter weather.  One of the highlights on our Baselworld calendar is seeing what heritage re-release Longines has cooked up, and whoo boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re looking at the Heritage 1945, an absolutely on point interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything…

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27.06.2018

VIDEO: The heart of Panerai – the new Luminor Marina Logo 3 Days in steel 

The heart of Panerai’s line-up has to be the entry-level Luminor. A 44mm watch with the classic crown guard-equipped Luminor case and not much in the way of frills. White or black dial, white logo or blue, small seconds or not, and a range of strap options. That’s pretty much it. But you know what? It’s all you need. Because this watch (shown here in its black dial, blue logo, small seconds configuration — AKA the PAM 00777) is the core of the brand. Rugged, authentic and no fuss. It’s one watch you can do pretty much anything in. And…

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26.06.2018

INSIGHT: How does Hublot love football? Let us count the ways

Hublot understands the power of a good partnership, and they don’t come much more powerful than the FIFA World Cup. The World Cup is one of the biggest events in the world. World Cup Brazil reached 3.2 billion viewers across the globe, with one billion alone tuning into the final. Russia looks set to be even bigger. And while many of those eyes will be on the ball, a good proportion will be paying attention to the wrists and Big Bang-shaped boards of the referees, as well as the clocks and countless other locations. But Hublot’s relationship with the beautiful…

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25.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Blue steel – Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato

Editor’s note: Sometimes there’s a fine science to what gets posted as an ‘editor’s pick’ — perhaps the watch is newsworthy again, or the story ties into some sort of seasonal holiday (get ready for tax time stories). This time, though, I didn’t overthink it. I was simply scrolling through our YouTube, and spotted the blue steel Laureato and olive bomber combo and was all “yep, that’s a hot look”. Superficial, or just plain super?  There’s something about the combination of utility and exclusivity that really appeals to people. And as I look down at the Laureato on my wrist…

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24.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Another look at the latest Omega Aqua Terra

Editor’s note: What with this year’s impressive overhaul of the Seamaster Professional, and last year’s revamp of the Aqua Terra, it looks like Omega’s main lines are getting some major love at the moment, which is good news for people who like high quality, great value watches (which, tbh, is all of us). But anyway, in case you missed it, here’s our deep dive into the AT … The story in a second: The Aqua Terra received a major upgrade in 2017, and now we’re seeing Omega’s staple in a whole new light. Since it first surfaced in 2003, Omega’s Aqua…

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23.06.2018

LIST: 6 low-key lit watches that you might have missed

Sometimes I like to think of the watch industry’s annual releases like an epic, sprawling house party — the sort where everybody shows up. There’s the classy guys who show up at the scheduled start time (SIHH) with nice wine and house gifts, and then, when it’s all settling into polite chit-chat mode, talking about the latest highbrow TV shows, the rest of the party shows up (Baselworld) and it starts getting hectic. Like all good parties, there are cliques, frenemies and drama. Pretty soon all eyes are on the cool kids — your Pepsi GMTs and the like —…

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22.06.2018

EVENT: Melbourne Watch Week kicks off, and our 4 standout picks 

Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz and Glashütte Original, representing the Swatch Group’s top tier watch brands, have teamed up to show off their latest and greatest at a 10-day exhibition hosted by retailer Monards at their Crown boutique. The exhibition kicked off last night, and while excellent company and sparkling drinks are all well and good, the real drawcard was the promise of the first chance to see more than 40 brand new products, fresh from Baselworld. And while the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel and the Breguet Marine 5517 were major drawcards, our eyes were drawn to some…

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21.06.2018

INTRODUCING: Coming at you like an 800-pound Gorilla – the Fastback GT Mirage 

A relative newcomer on the watch scene (debuting in 2016), Gorilla is a brand that isn’t shy about throwing its weight around. The brainchild of Octavio Garcia and Lukas Gopp (formerly designers at Audemars Piguet), Gorilla does things its own way, and doesn’t mess around. Inspired by comic culture and American muscle cars of the 1970s, the Fastback GT is a big 44mm watch (48.5mm if you count the crown guard) with a blocky case construction, and decidedly automotive dial layout. It’s distinctive, but not outrageously or unwearably so, and — commendably for a watch at this price point —…

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20.06.2018

HANDS-ON: Stay golden – the Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 

One of Girard-Perregaux’s leitmotifs is the golden bridge. Typically deployed in a trio, the golden bridges — with their broad, arrow-headed shoulders and pleasing, perfectly aligned symmetry — have been holding the brand’s wheels and balances in place since 1860. The golden bridges first showed up in a wristwatch in 1981, and these days it serves as a de facto logo. Girard-Perregaux has also been playing with tradition, with their modernist neo-bridges watches and this new, more accessible model, the Classic Bridges, which sees two bridges take pride of place on the dial; the smaller of the two looking after a balance wheel…

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20.06.2018

VIDEO: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One shows off its strong bones 

One of the things I love most in watches is when a brand challenges my preconceptions. That’s exactly what happened in Jaquet Droz’s Basel booth earlier this year. I was surrounded by writing machines, jewelled butterflies, automata of all shapes and sizes (well, not really, but you get my point), and then BAM! I saw the Skelet-One. I mean, sure, technically it’s part of the Grande Seconde family (just like the Tribute), but to my mind it’s aggressive modernity meets classical proportion and peerless finish. A seductive mix, indeed. In and of itself the skeletonisation is very cool, but the…

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19.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Everyday heroes – 8 watches you can wear all day, every day

Editor’s note: In the land of watches, it’s easy to fall into an endless hole of segmentation. Dive watch begets dive chronograph begets dive chronograph in rose gold etc. And, fun as this never-ending narrowing of focus is, we should never forget that the number of people in the market for a rose gold dive chronograph is comparatively small. But you know what lots of people do want? A good, solid watch to wear every day. Which is why Andy Green’s round-up of eight of last year’s best all day, every day watches is such a winner. I like to…

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19.06.2018

EVENT: Hublot loves Tim Cahill – the veteran Socceroo has just become a friend of the brand

It was always going to be a tough ask, Australia taking on the powerhouse French team. And in the end the 2-1 score proved the point, but didn’t tell the whole tale. Before we return to the game, let’s take a step back and ask the (very valid) question: Why is Time+Tide talking about the World Cup? Well, there are two answers. A: everyone is, and B: Hublot. It was an invitation from Hublot that found me sipping an Old Fashioned high above the Sydney skyline while I kicked footballs — in perhaps the most un-World Cup worthy manner ever…

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18.06.2018

VIDEO: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tribute 

Two hundred and eighty years is pretty big as far as milestones go. So, given that Jaquet Droz is marking the big two-eight-o this year, you’d expect them to have a few tricks up their sleeve … and you wouldn’t be disappointed. They’ve released this special version of their signature watch — the Grande Seconde Tribute, a limited edition of 88 pieces cased, for the first time, in yellow gold. The original precious metal is perfectly paired with the warm ivory tones of the Grand Feu dial, printed with the characteristic dual dials — including the oversized seconds hand that…

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17.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 months on, and does Felix still stand by his top 10 watches of 2017?

Editor’s note: Late last year I hung out with Andrew and some strangely undrunk drinks on a hot rooftop bar and rolled through my favourite watches of 2017. Six months and two watch fairs have passed since then, and do I still stand by my picks? Well, scroll down and find out. Legend has it those Coronas are still there … Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer Timeless style and a seriously impressive movement ensured the Aqua Terra won over the pragmatic side of my heart. My only dilemma is — which version? Do I still rate it? Heck yes…

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16.06.2018

LIST: 3 watches perfect for the Pitti Uomo Peacock, and 2 that will work in the real world

This week our feeds have been blowing up with all the hot new lewks from Florence as the #menswear and #influencer brigade descended for Pitti Immagine Uomo 94 — a trade show that seems, from the outside at least, to be more about lounging around faux-casually, in immaculate, over-the-top outfits. These guys are known collectively as peacocks. And we thought we’d help out these Pitti Peacocks by selecting some of the finest au current timepieces for their sartorial needs. And then we thought we’d find some real world examples too … Check out this #dapper #gent in his #sartorial #tailoring.…

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15.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Sharp steel – the Seiko Samurai

Editor’s note:  Seiko’s Prospex series of professional dive watches is renowned for two things: its exceptionally high quality-to-value ratio and its large number of passionate fans. And while there are a few perennial standouts in the Prospex family, some parts of the collection ebb and flow based on style and popularity… One such model is the so-called ‘Samurai’, a contemporarily styled 200m diver produced for a few years from 2004. Released in a range of dials variants, and in steel or titanium cases, the watch earned its moniker because the handset reminded wearers of the distinctive angles of the aforementioned warriors’…

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14.06.2018

VIDEO: The stripped-back Santos – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier Skeleton

Last week we had a look at the ‘regular’ version of Cartier’s updated Santos, and today the less-is-more Skeleton is under our lens. To be specific, we’re talking about the large steel model (though there’s a pink gold version as well), which comes on the QuickSwitch and SmartLink equipped steel bracelet, replete with those prominent screws — you also get an additional alligator strap, allowing you to change your look should the fancy take you. So far, so standard for the new Santos. But what’s special here is the dial, or lack thereof, as you would expect. The manually wound…

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12.06.2018

HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

One of the finest openworked watches on the market right now (and one that, paradoxically, didn’t make our list of skeletonised watches) is the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked from Audemars Piguet. Visually, this pink gold case with predominantly steel movement architecture is everything you’d expect — that classic RO case and bracelet looking boss, with a deep, complex openworked dial. And while legibility is the main concern here (there’s not a heap of contrast between the movement and those gold hands, compared to earlier versions with a grey movement finish), it quickly becomes apparent that the titular double…

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09.06.2018

LIST: Out of the closet and onto the wrist – 6 of the best skeleton watches

Skeletonised watches — where the solid dial, and in some cases the entire movement, has been pared down and stripped away to leave the bare bones of the architecture — can be something of an acquired taste. And, as with all watches, the look can vary greatly, from ultra traditional to modern, depending on the execution. But at their heart, skeleton watches allow you to see more of your watch, exposing the complicated beauty to the wider world. Here are six of the best skeleton watches we’ve seen this year. Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time Let’s…

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08.06.2018

INTRODUCING: Blancpain makes a splash with the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III

Today is World Oceans Day, a day that has, since 1992, celebrated our marine environments, and raised awareness for the need to preserve them. It’s a worthy cause, and one Blancpain, with their exceptional legacy in dive watches, has done a lot to support and promote. Most visibly through a series of Ocean Commitment watches. The first was a grey ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, and the second a chronograph version of the same model. Both with rich blue dials. Today, Blancpain has announced the latest generation, the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III, and for the first time, it’s not a…

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08.06.2018

VIDEO: A modern classic – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier

Few watches can rival Cartier’s Santos in terms of on-the-wrist recognition and sheer weight of history. The design debuted in 1904 and has remained fundamentally unchanged in form since. But while the new Santos might look familiar, quite a lot has changed. Small changes have been made to the design and ergonomics of the case, resulting in a watch that looks and wears better on the wrist. Bigger changes have been made to the inside, with an in-house movement upgrade and, most excitingly of all, a new QuickSwitch strap change system that allows you to swap your strap quickly and…

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06.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: How to be a watch spotter, not a watch stalker

Editor’s note: Today we revisit a golden oldie from Andrew that’s as relevant today as the day it was penned: how to casually work out if someone’s wearing the new Tudor GMT — without looking like a massive creep. We can all learn something here, so read on … Watch spotting. Don’t be shy, we all do it, and with varying levels of sophistication. Some among us are smooth as silk, spotting a watch half a room away, approaching the wearer with a smile and leaving shortly after with a photo, a story and the holy grail – a price.…

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06.06.2018

NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8 

Disclaimer: This post contains minimal traces of watch. But it does contain some very large diamonds. Ocean’s 8, the latest in the long-running series of elaborate heist movies, is about to hit our screens, but this time around the film is less of a bro session, as Clooney, Pitt et al. have been benched in favour of an all female crew, with Sandra Bullock and Cate Blanchett masterminding the (inevitably convoluted) caper. The object of their attention is a fairly pricey necklace, worn by Anne Hathaway. And here’s where things get interesting. This necklace, named the “Jeanne Toussaint” necklace, is…

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04.06.2018

HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey – the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date 

It’s easy with any brand’s new release catalogue to get swept up with the drama and complexity of the halo pieces. In the case of Glashütte Original that glory goes to the flashy green of the Sixties Panorama Date, or the bells and whistles of the Senator Cosmopolite. But sometimes you crave something simple, clean and pure. That’s where this latest take on the Senator Excellence Panorama Date comes in. If you’re not au fait with the watch, it’s one of the less complex models in the Senator family and was first introduced, with its lunar sibling, back in 2016.…

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03.06.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Last year we predicted 9 vintage reissues to be released in 2018. So how did we do?

Editor’s note: Speculation is, by definition, risky. But it’s also fun. And here at T+T we don’t speculate on shares or cryptocurrency — no, we make guesses on watch releases. So last year we made nine semi-educated guesses as to what watches we’d see this year … and we didn’t do so well. If you’re charitable, we can kind of claim three out of nine. Their is a new Polaris (though not the Mark II), the new Navitimer 8 does have a bit of Top Time DNA in there, and Andy did predict a gradient grey dial Blancpain Diver Date. But…

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02.06.2018

EVENT: Australian legends at the legendary launch of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris 

Earlier this week, Jaeger-LeCoultre held the Australian launch of their brand new Polaris collection at Carriageworks in Sydney, and it was — to borrow Neil Patrick Harris’ line — legendary. In watchland, the Polaris is a legend in its own right (a watch I incidentally had the pleasure of seeing in its various stages of assembly), so it was only appropriate that Jaeger-LeCoultre assembled some local legends to celebrate its arrival on our shores. Sporting legend John Eales (this guy) officiated over the launch of the sporty line, dropping surprising titbits like the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Vallée de Joux manufacture…

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02.06.2018

LIST: 7 military-inspired watches that are destined for victory

In the world of vintage watch collection, ‘issued’ watches — timepieces that were supplied to military personnel — typically command a pretty penny, and brands with a history of producing timing instruments for armed services often lean on this heritage with military-inspired reissues. However, it’s not always so simple, as some brands are wary of glorifying conflict. Regardless of how the story is articulated, there’s no denying that the simple, clean and purposeful designs that so often characterise watches intended for military use is an attractive look, and not one that’s disappearing any time soon. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Hamilton…

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31.05.2018

VIDEO: I ditched my mechanical watch for the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition, and this is what I discovered

Late last year, one of the more surprising (and contentious) inclusions in my “best watches of 2017” list was the Apple Watch Series 3. For me, the addition of cellular functionality made the already formidable smart watch that much more intimidating — and appealing. So, as you can imagine, I was keen to get my hands on one for review, and just after SIHH a courier dropped one off at my desk. Fast forward to now and I’ve had the grey ceramic Apple Watch Series 3 Edition on my wrist on and off for a few months. Did it live up…

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31.05.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum P.I.’ Rolex

All that’s left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a couple of Hawaiian shirts and my moustache comb. Tom Selleck is Magnum, P.I. For Selleck it’s clearly a career-defining role, and for the rest of the world it’s a cultural touchpoint for Ferraris, aloha shirts and exceptional moustaches. In this short but informative interview with the FHH Journal, the 73-year-old actor talks about how most of Magnum is in the past (he didn’t get to keep a Ferrari), but one prop that has lived on beyond the set is the iconic Rolex GMT-Master. Selleck explains how it’s been a…

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29.05.2018

INTRODUCING: Strong looks and value – the Mido Multifort GMT

Mido is a name that might not be too familiar to our Australian readers, as the Swatch Group brand has had the most minimal of minimal presences on our shores until recently. But as it so happens, they’re celebrating their 100th anniversary this year, and they’re doing it with a strong collection of watches, like this new GMT addition to their venerable Multifort line. The Mido Multifort GMT — offered in either steel with a black dial, or rose gold PVD with a blue dial — is a good-looking unit, 42mm across on a classically styled 22mm three-link bracelet on the black…

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28.05.2018

OPINION: Is this the most important (and overlooked) element in watch design?

Case profile. There, I said it. It might not be as sexy as the movement or the dial, but in terms of real-world user-friendliness, it’s the kingmaker or deal-breaker. The problem is, watchmakers and fans are conditioned to a very top-down visual approach of watches. Look at any brand’s site, or most of the watches on Instagram, and what do you see? Dials. A whole lot of dials. And, honestly, it makes sense. The top-down dial shot encompasses most of what a watch is about. The dial is the visual star, and a typical wrist shot at least gives you…

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28.05.2018

HANDS-ON: Chase the blues away – 3 new models added to Raymond Weil’s classical Maestro family

One of the Raymond Weil’s great strengths has always been stylish, sharp, everyday dress pieces, something that’s really epitomised in the Maestro line. Well, at Basel that line got a little bigger, with the addition of three new, blue-dialled options. These watches, like many things in the world of Raymond Weil, take their inspiration from the world of music — remember, the collection is called ‘Maestro’. But the Maestros we’re talking here aren’t your Chopins or Shostakoviches — no, as you’d expect, these blue dials pay homage to that most American of genres: blues. And while it’s a broad church,…

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26.05.2018

LIST: Somewhere over the rainbow – 8 of the year’s best gem-set watches 

There’s no point sugar-coating it. Gem-set watches aren’t for everyone. For one, all that ice racks up the price tag (so much so that all the watches below are POA), and for another, it takes a certain type of person to appreciate the — occasionally over-the-top — artistry it takes to make a watch shine like the proverbial crazy diamond, sapphire or peridot. But even if it’s not your thing, you can’t deny the power of the bling. Rolex Rainbow Daytona in Everose One of the major standouts of Basel 2018, the latest model to get Rolex’s famous (and divisive)…

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25.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph

Let’s be real here. Ever since we saw the new Laureato last year, we knew the chronograph version was inevitable. After all, what’s a luxury sports watch without the option of the default sports complication? There’s no doubt that this good-looking sporty option is the brand’s commercial focus, so it makes sense that a veritable bevy of chronograph models was released at SIHH 2018. Offered in 38 or 42mm, in steel or pink gold, strap or bracelet, and a range of dials (including a real cool black with blue registers option), there might not quite be something for everyone, but…

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25.05.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 8 ways to let your significant other know you’re spending more money than is sensible on *another* watch

Editor’s note: It’s getting close to end of financial year here in Australia, a time when, traditionally, watch lovers start counting their fiscal chickens before they’re hatched, and allocating that spend to the less essential things in life … like watches. Now, in a shock twist that I’m sure you’re all pretty familiar with, it turns out significant others don’t *always* see the fiscal sense in dropping serious coin on yet another watch that is, let’s face it, pretty much exactly the same as all the others you own. Andy Green has taken on the dangerous task of evaluating eight…

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24.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The classically charming Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Of all of Montblanc’s fine timepieces, I’ve had a soft spot for the distinctive Rieussec line, an uncommon take on the common chronograph that draws its inspiration from the daddy of them all, the original chronograph device invented by the eponymous Frenchman, Nicolas Rieussec. The Rieussec has been in the Montblanc family for a while, but to me it’s always occupied a somewhat liminal space, sitting above the more accessible TimeWalkers and their ilk, yet not quite in the same league as the famed Minerva-based chronographs. But that’s not to say that the Montblanc Rieussec isn’t a serious piece of…

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23.05.2018

MY YEAR WITH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 ‘Grey Phantom’ 

For those who know me and my taste in watches a little bit, the fact that I own a TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 typically comes as a bit of a surprise, as there’s a perception that I like the simpler, smaller things in watch life. For those who know me and my history in watches a little better, the fact that I’m rocking a big, bold, skeletonised chronograph raises no eyebrows at all. But personal preferences aside, if you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to spend some quality time with the Heuer 01, you’ve come to the right place.…

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22.05.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: We ask the experts how to build a potentially valuable watch collection

Editor’s note: Nigh on a year ago, Sandra delved into the mercurial, and occasionally murky, world of investing in vintage watches. But rather than start at the already stratospheric Rolex/Patek et al. price point, she decided to focus on something a little more achievable. And while prices on some of the below suggestions have likely already gone up, the general advice is still sound … A few years ago I attended a talk called ‘How to Start a Collection’. The focus was on vintage rather than modern and the speaker was a prominent collector, so I looked forward to picking up…

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19.05.2018

LIST: 3 cork-poppingly excellent new champagne dials

Not to get too metaphysical with you on a Saturday morning, but does three watches count as a list? Honestly, I’m not sure, and the truth is I couldn’t find too many more ‘true’ champagne dials that were released in 2018. Silver, and other variations thereof, sure. And there’s even one or two I can think of that aren’t *technically* public yet, but proper, cork-popping champagne? Not so many. Why is that so? Perhaps it’s because champagne is an acquired and, dare I say, sophisticated taste. Anyway, here’s the three different flavours of Champagne. Tudor Black Bay S&G Champagne A…

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18.05.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The other side of Breguet – the Type XXI 3817

Editor’s Note: It’s easy (too easy, really) to pigeonhole a brand, often unfairly. For me, my first association with Breguet was all fluted cases, engine-turned dials and precious metal cases. To be fair, the brand does all those things exceptionally well, but you know what else they do pretty darned well? Steel sports watches, like this Type XXI 3817 … Turns out that Breguet, not content with nailing the brief when it comes to dress watches and innovating left, right and centre are also quite the dab hand when it comes to pilot’s watches. And they’re no Johnny-come-latelies at the genre, either. In…

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16.05.2018

VIDEO: 6 of the best new Zenith releases of 2018 

It was clear from Zenith’s 2018 collection that the Defy line was a major priority. Because while there were Pilot, Chronomaster and Elite models on offer, the Defy was the star of the show, with everything from the awesomely complex El Primero Zero G through to the comparatively simple, but still quality, Defy Classics. It’s easy to see why this line is the focus — it’s a bold, distinctive look, with a modern case shape and a tendency towards contemporary materials, but the overall package is still stylistically versatile. But perhaps most important of all, it’s a look that will perhaps…

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14.05.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The ’90s are back in fashion – what does this mean for watchmaking?

Editor’s note: If I needed any further proof that the ’90s were back in a big way, it was seeing a 20-something friend of a friend with a Stussy tattoo on their wrist. For me, that sealed the deal. And while street/skate style has been an accepted new norm in the world of fashion for sometime now, the cycle of fashion turns a little slower in the watch industry. But it does turn, as the return to favour of yellow gold and two-tone shows. So, in that spirit, here are nine watchmaking innovations from the ’90s that challenge the common…

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12.05.2018

LIST: 7 envy-instilling green dials

Today we’re following up on last week’s batch of blue-dialled watches with seven of the freshest green dials on the block. Green is shaping up to be the new en vogue colour, and I suspect that if we ran this list next year, we’d easily be able to double the number of entrants. Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition Let’s kick off with one of the first green watches of 2018, the oh-so-hot 1858 Monopusher from Montblanc. And while the smoky, graduated green dial is a looker, the real winning features are that the case is 40mm, and in the people’s…

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11.05.2018

VIDEO: We meet the people responsible for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most complicated watches

Earlier this week we showed you a behind-the-scenes peek at how Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris is put together. Well, we kick it up a notch and have a look at some of the brand’s most complicated — and most beautiful — pieces, find out a little bit about how they’re made, and meet the talented artisans who make them. Central to this story is Christian Laurent, JLC’s master watchmaker, a man with a twinkle in his eye and a clear passion for his work. During my visit, Mr Laurent presented JLC’s high complications, running through the brand’s achievements — innovative watches like the Duomètre…

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09.05.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The origins of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Editor’s note: Earlier this week we ran a video that looked at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Polaris collection. While this video was being put together I found myself referring back to Andy’s article from earlier this year, which looked at the very interesting Polaris backstory. So here it is again, the story behind the Polaris. And, yes, I’m still holding out hope for a Polaris II.  Today we’re looking back at the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris, an extremely rare and somewhat mysterious dive watch — which lately has been garnering a lot of attention. The Memovox Polaris was an extremely functional offering, delivered…

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08.05.2018

VIDEO: From a piece of steel to a finished watch – how the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is made

Holding a watch in your hands, and wearing it on your wrist is one thing. But seeing where that small, highly precise piece of machinery was designed, and how it comes to life is something completely different, as I found out when I visited Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacture in the Vallée de Joux earlier this year, and saw, firsthand, how the Polaris is made. Of course I had seen the watches before, when the new collection was presented at SIHH, but seeing them at the Salon, accompanied by glossy power points, held by white-gloved hands in orderly display trays, is completely different…

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05.05.2018

LIST: 15 of the most brilliant new blue dials

Over the next month or so we’re going to be running a series of colour-coded stories, where we focus less on the movements and case details and more on the dials. The brighter and bolder, the better. To kick things off we’ve rounded up a bunch of the best new blue dials because, honestly, who doesn’t love blue? From subtle to shimmering to downright electric, this versatile colour can go from sporty to dressy in the blink of an eye. Seiko Prospex ‘Save the Ocean’ SRPC91K1 Let’s start with a dial that has it all, and at a price that’s…

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04.05.2018

VIDEO: A lot of squares and a few surprises – 5 of the best Bell & Ross watches of 2018

It’s always fun seeing Bell & Ross at Baselworld. Aside from the quality, and strong, distinctive DNA of their core offerings, the design-oriented brand is exceptionally good at creating narratives and mythologies around their watches. Case in point is the new Racing Bird series, a colourful take on their vintage line, inspired by a concept plane that (honestly) we wished was much closer to reality. Their collaboration with Renault’s F1 team has the same high speed, high-tech inspiration, but here it’s very much reality. And then there are the latest versions of their 2017 hit, the large and very much…

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04.05.2018

VIDEO: Set sail with the Franck Muller Vanguard S6 Yachting

Yacht rock is one of the Time+Tide office’s favourite genres of smooth, easy listening music, so it should come as no surprise that we’re more than willing to get behind the Franck Muller Vanguard S6 Yachting, which see’s the brand’s typical large, curvex case in mirror-like gold holds — well, less watch than you’d expect thanks to the heavily skeletonised movement inside. the bridges share the same stylish, angular geometry that we’ve seen on other Vanguard models. Here the bridges are in blue, which provides some beautiful contrast with the gold. Things start getting nautical when it comes to the…

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02.05.2018

VIDEO: The top Jaquet Droz watches from Basel 2018 (hint, there’s a lot of Grande Seconde in the mix)

Just because Jaquet Droz is a relative newcomer to Australia doesn’t mean they don’t have history. The brand dates back to the mid-18th century, and, besides watches and clocks, is famous for their incredible automata. And while the incredibly complex, high-end art/engineering pieces are still important for the brand, we thought we’d keep it real and focus on their slightly more down-to-earth offerings from Baselworld 2018, offerings that focused heavily on their signature Grande Seconde model, with its oversized seconds subdial. And like any good signature model, the Grande Seconde is versatile. It excels at traditional — as evidenced by the…

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02.05.2018

HANDS-ON: The most surprising watch I’ve worn this year – the Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer

Given that T+T is an Australian-based site, I’ve spent a fair amount of time over the years looking at watches from local brands. And I’ve got to say, I haven’t seen a single offering as all-round impressive as this Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer. What I was most impressed (and surprised) by with the Ghost Explorer was the overall build quality. But I’ll get to that in a bit. First, let’s look at the bigger picture. Creux launched in 2016, the passion project of Kiwi rapper-cum-jeweller Dane Rumble. And what initially separates these watches from the rest of the indie/micro/Kickstarter pack…

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30.04.2018

HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil bares all with the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton

When Raymond Weil designed the Calibre RW1212, their first ever in-house design (produced by Sellita), I suspect part of the mandate was to show it off, hence the open escapement prominently on display — literally showing off a movement they’re rightfully proud of. Well, Raymond Weil doubled down at Basel 2018, exposing not just the escapement but the whole dial, thanks to a new series of skeletonised Freelancers. As you’d expect, there’s a range of new offerings on the table, but the one that impressed us was this modern sporty number, with what remains of the dial done in crisp…

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27.04.2018

IN-DEPTH: A splash of colour and a lot of fun – the TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition

The story in a second: Two stripes are all it takes to amp up the legacy and motorsports heritage of the Monaco. I’m willing to put the success of the Monaco down to two things. The Steve McQueen link, and the square shape. I’m sure there are numerous other factors, like the Calibre 11, at play. But really, it’s the fact that this watch is so distinctive, and was worn by someone so cool that the Monaco has stayed strong throughout the decades. The latest brightly striped Gulf Special Edition takes both these factors to the next level. The dial…

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27.04.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: 10 pilot’s watches that have the right stuff

Editor’s note: Along with dive watches, we seem to have an insatiable fascination with pilot’s watches — even though pretty much no one who wears one knows how to fly, and even if we did, they’ve been largely superseded by modern cockpit instrumentation. But this is a case of practicality being beside the point, as Cam explores in his excellent list … First things first, just what is a pilot’s watch? While I think most of us could instantly recognise one, there isn’t an exact formula like there is when it comes to dive watches — and there’s a lot more to…

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26.04.2018

MY WEEK WITH: Travelling the globe with the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum

There’s a lot of important planning that happens in the lead up to Baselworld. But perhaps the single most important question is — what watch do I wear? In previous years I’ve taken a handful of pieces, something I wasn’t keen to do this year, as I find it vaguely stressful travelling with more than one (what if I leave it on a plane!), and I typically end up wearing only one the whole week. So this year I decided to travel with just one, and I also thought it was the perfect opportunity to put a travel-oriented watch through…

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25.04.2018

HANDS-ON: Top of the world – the epic, awesome Jaeger-LeCoultre Tourbillon Geophysic Universal Time

As far as boss complications go, the world timer is pretty up there. Not only is it technically impressive, it’s also visually arresting: the city ring and typically colourful layout make walking around with one of these on your wrist the watch equivalent of playing Beyoncé’s ‘Run the World (Girls)’ wherever you go. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time takes it to the next level by adding — yes, you guessed it — a flying tourbillon into the mix, for that extra horological pop. But before we get to the tourbillon, let’s take a step back and talk Geophysic. The Geophysic…

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23.04.2018

HANDS-ON: This watch means business – the Cartier Santos in yellow gold 

If you’re a relative newcomer to the whole world of watches, it’s easy to underestimate just how big Cartier is, and how important their impact on modern watchmaking is. Cartier have carved themselves an unimpeachable place as the evergreen masters of the shaped watch, and the Santos is the watch that started it all. While the origins of the Santos date back to the early 20th century, its primary stylistic association lies not with Belle Époque Europe but rather with Wall Street, circa 1980-something, as the modern Santos was launched (on that oh-so-distinctive bracelet) in 1978. The Santos was a…

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23.04.2018

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition – an icon on the wrist

There’s more to a watch than how it feels and looks on the wrist. Some watches carry a weight greater than what you can measure in grams — they also bear the weight of decades of heritage and sociocultural significance. The Monaco — a true icon of the industry — is one such watch. It’s even more true when that Monaco has a Gulf dial. Those stripes, on that dial, add up to a double hit of Steve McQueen iconography. The watch he wore in Le Mans, emblazoned with the colours of the car he drove, all in one convenient…

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14.04.2018

LIST: 6 of the best vintage watch advertisements, according to @adpatina

Editors Note: One of the more interesting Instagram accounts I’ve followed in recent times is @adpatina, dedicated to sourcing (and selling) vintage watch ads. Clearly, I wasn’t alone, as Ad Patina has graduated from Instagram and is now a fully fledged site and store. I thought I’d reach out and get the full story. So, a few DMs and emails later and Nick has given me the scoop (kind of) on collecting vintage watch ads, and his thoughts on the best possible examples … So, how did you get into vintage watch ads? Ah, it all started when I was a…

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13.04.2018

VIDEO: Omega bring the value with the updated Seamaster Professional 300M

Twenty-five years is a milestone worth celebrating, so Omega have pulled out all the stops with their latest upgrade of the Seamaster Professional 300M, AKA the Seamaster Professional, AKA the SMP. The SMP is a fairly iconic watch, largely down to its prominent placement on the wrist of Bond (James Bond). Omega have made a host of small but sweeping cosmetic changes, from the bezel, to the dial (hello wave pattern), to the bracelet (thinner) and the case (slightly larger). However, the real change is on the inside: it’s now powered by the Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, which, in another…

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11.04.2018

NEWS: Oak & Oscar’s one-of-a-kind Olympic watch 

Watch brands and sporting tie-ins. It’s a combo as old as time(keeping). We see it all the time. But you know what we don’t see all the time? Curling. Funnily enough, the sport of sliding large granite stones across sheets of ice hasn’t made too much of an impact on our sun-drenched shores, so when a curling-related press release pinged in my inbox, it’s fair to say my curiosity was piqued. Oak & Oscar is a small independent brand that has impressed with their consistently solid (and well thought through) product offering. And clearly they haven’t just impressed us, as…

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08.04.2018

NEWS: The results from Russell Crowe’s auction, including a surprisingly expensive Speedmaster

Last night, the provocatively titled Russell Crowe: The Art of Divorce auction took place in Sydney, an event which was, essentially, a rather high-brow garage sale. Unsurprisingly, it was the lots relating to his Oscar-winning role in Gladiator that saw the strong returns, a breastplate netting $152,500, an aluminium sword $85,400, and a a chariot $79,300 (all including buyer’s premium). The 19th century Leandro Bisiach violin played in Master and Commander, the lot with the highest estimate ($110,000 – $140,000) also performed well, coming in at $164,700 including premium. His art collection, including big-ticket Australian artist like Norman Lindsay, Brett…

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07.04.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Russell Crowe’s watch auction, and 3 lots to look out for

As we told you a little while ago, Rusty is auctioning off a whole lot of his personal possessions, memorabilia and, of interest to us, watches. If this is news to you, here’s a recap. It’s all going down in Sydney tonight, and our eyes are going to be firmly fixed on three key lots. Lot 198 – Panerai Luminor Submersible PAM 64C This lot has a lot (sorry) going for it. The La Bomba is one of the real Panerai classics, and has everything in it that the Paneristi love. Plus this one is showing some lovely age on…

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04.04.2018

VIDEO: 5 winning Bulgaris from Baselworld 2018

While I know Bulgari released a full suite of new models at Baselworld 2018 — including a nice new Lucea and variants on the Octo Roma — really, it was all about their geometric critical hit, the Octo. And while we didn’t exactly see the Octo come in new shapes and sizes (it’s still very square), we did see it come in a genuinely interesting new mix of case finishes and complications. Take, for example, the new carbon minute repeater, giving the chiming champion a completely new feel. And then there’s their latest record-breaker, the Octo Tourbillon Automatic, a technical tour de…

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03.04.2018

VIDEO: Felix’s top 10 watches from Baselworld 2018

There’s something I feel you should know about our personal ‘top 10’ videos: Andrew and I don’t share what’s on our lists with each other. Sure, we drop broad hints, but this video is genuinely the first time Andrew’s hearing my list in full. The surprise, and the guesses, are real. And even though it’s a little surprising that Andrew didn’t guess my choices — I mean, I went to absolutely zero effort to hide my unashamed love for that Rolex Daytona, for example — the real surprise was that we had only one duplicate watch in the whole 10. You know what else…

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27.03.2018

VIDEO: 8 of the best Omega watches from Basel 2018

Omega is a real powerhouse brand, with a product catalogue that’s both broad and deep, and their Basel 2018 catalogue is no exception. This year they showed a fairly diverse mix of watches, from the elegant ladies Trésor, to a range of Olympic commemorative editions and a Speedy or two. The main focus, though, is the Seamaster. There was a lovely duo of heritage-inspired models, but really, the critical and commercial heart of their lineup is the revamped Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, better known as the SMP. It’s a model that found renown on the wrist of Brosnan’s Bond, and…

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26.03.2018

VIDEO: 4 of the best Grand Seiko watches from Basel 2018 – including an incredible quartz

The story of Grand Seiko at Baselworld 2018 is really the story of two movements. The legendary quartz 9F, which turns 25 this year, and the high-end workhorse that is the 9S, which marks its 20th anniversary. Both calibres received special tribute models, which really showcase the movement — literally in the case of the SBGV238. Quartz movements typically don’t receive the sapphire case-back treatment, and I believe this is the first time the 9F ever has. And really, it’s quite amazing to look at, as is the rest of the watch, especially that intricate dial. The 9S tribute models also…

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25.03.2018

VIDEO: 4 of the best GMT watches from Baselworld 2018

It very quickly became apparent — after only a few hours on the ground at Basel 2018 — that GMTs were everywhere, and not just the obvious Pepsi-bezelled, Jubilee-braceleted option from the Big Crown. So Andy and I took some time out from our busy schedules to discuss this phenomena, and some prime examples. So, in addition to the Rolex GMT-Master II, we noted that Patek had doubled down on their Calatrava Travel Time. TAG Heuer added a little more complication to their Carrera Heuer 02, adding a blue and black bezelled GMT into the family. And finally Tudor, not to…

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24.03.2018

VIDEO: 5 TAG Heuers that impressed at Baselworld 2018

TAG Heuer’s 2018 line-up is, as you’d expect, dominated by chronographs. But just because one complication is the focus, it comes in a surprisingly diverse range of forms. First up is the Carrera Calibre 16, a round steel number with a pleasingly retro dial offered in blue or black. It’s a good looking watch, and one squarely aimed at the vintage lovers out there. Also on the vintage side of the fence is the boldly striped Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition. For the more modern types there’s the latest take on the modular-cased Carrera, the Carrera Heuer 02 GMT Chronograph.…

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24.03.2018

VIDEO: 8 of the best Seiko watches from Basel 2018

Seeing Seiko at Basel 2018 can be a pretty overwhelming experience. There’s. Just. So. Many. Watches. Trays and trays of them. It’s easy to get distracted, to lose sense of the bigger picture and be bogged down in the minutiae of Presage dials or the subtly tweaked new cases. But we managed to stay above the fray this time ’round, to use our limited time to focus on the surefire hits from the line-up. Like the new blue enamel-dialled Presage, the significantly re-worked Astron, and Prospex. Lots of Prospex. There’s the new limited edition Turtle, with an incredible dial inspired…

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23.03.2018

VIDEO: 4 of the best Tudor watches from Basel 2018 – including the GMT that has everyone talking

I always feel a slight apprehension walking into the Tudor press presentation at Baselworld. My expectation levels are maxed, and I’m always worried that the new range won’t live up to the high standards of the previous year. And, as usual, I needn’t have worried, as Tudor’s Basel 2018 collection is STRONG. New dials, movements, complications and collections — Tudor has it all. First of all, there’s a brand-new line, the 1926, a dressy, everyday option with strong hints of vintage and a decent dash of bling. Speaking of bling, there’s a new dial for the S&G — a new, molten…

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22.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGR311 Limited Edition – celebrating 20 years of the 9S in style

At the heart of many Grand Seiko watches beats the mighty 9S calibre, which is celebrating its 20th birthday, and the location of the party is Baselworld 2018. There’s a swathe of new offerings on the table, including this deliciously dialled number, the Grand Seiko SBGR311. Vital statistics Excuse me if I rush through the key stats, because, really, I want to talk about that dial. The SBGR311 is 42mm across, steel, with that characteristic mix of exceptional polish and brushed finishes that define Grand Seiko’s zaratsu-polished cases. From behind there’s the 9S68 (obvs), visible behind a sapphire caseback with…

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22.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH267 – showcasing the mighty 9S hi-beat movement

The foundation upon which modern Grand Seiko is built is the calibre 9S, first unveiled 20 years ago. Basel 2018 sees the Japanese brand pay tribute to this important movement with this new Grand Seiko model, the SBGH267 Vital statistics Grand Seiko’s dial and case finishes are rightly lauded for their high level of quality. But the far less visible movement is just as significant. And, if the watch is automatic, the chances are high that movement is the 9S. First introduced in 1998, this movement, with its high level of precision, lengthy power reserve and rock-solid construction, was ahead of…

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22.03.2018

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA373 and SBGA375 – blue and champagne dials added to the family

In addition to the scene-stealing 9S 20th anniversary pieces, Grand Seiko have announced two new Spring Drive models at Baselworld 2018. Reference SBGA373 with a champagne dial, and SBGA375 in rich blue. Vital statistics With its inexorably smooth sweeping seconds hand, there’s something hypnotic about Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, powered and regulated by an ingenious combination of kinetic, magnetic and electrical energy. And while the Snowflake tends to garner the most attention, there are other time and date members of the collection, the most recent being these two. Both are powered by the 9R65, visible through clear casebacks on…

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22.03.2018

VIDEO: 4 standout Longines from Baselworld 2018, including a brand new Legend

Longines have a well-earned reputation for exceptionally strong heritage releases, and while their Baselworld 2018 collection featured a particularly hot blacked-out Legend Diver, it was newer lines, like the extensions to Record and V.H.P. that really stood out. On the one hand, the new gold and two-tone additions to the traditionally styled Record impressed with their simplicity and everyday wearability, while on the other, Longines added a chronograph and a GMT to their super-accurate V.H.P. collection. This line in general is well beyond your average quartz collection. Longines’ Baselworld 2018 collection goes to show that this twin focus on making…

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21.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

Omega releasing a new Speedmaster model at Baselworld 2018 is hardly the biggest surprise ever, but still, the high contrast black and yellow colour scheme and novel dial design make the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 an interesting, attention-seeking addition to the family. Vital statistics Fifty years ago, Apollo 8 was the first mission to orbit the moon, and actually see the dark side of the moon. So the black, zirconium oxide ceramic Dark Side of the Moon is an obvious choice. And while Omega say the choice of yellow is inspired by the original Speedmaster Racing…

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21.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300 gets a major upgrade

One of the most popular and most loved Omega watches is the mighty Seamaster 300 — made especially famous by James Bond. Baselworld 2018 marks the 25th anniversary of the design, and to mark the occasion, Omega have completely upgraded and revamped the line, offering a total of 14 new Seamaster Diver 300 models, in both steel and two-tone cases. Vital statistics Every detail of the new Seamaster Diver 300 has been assessed and rethought, from a new, more ergonomic bracelet, to a conical helium escape valve. But it’s the big changes that will capture the eye. The size has…

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21.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Editions 

The Seamaster is one of the enduring staples of the fine watch world, found on the wrists of young and old, all over the world. It turns out that this year the old favourite turns 70, and so we’ve obviously got new Omega Seamaster watches being released at Baselworld 2018 — like these Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Editions, offered in small and central seconds variations. Vital statistics It’s not often you think about watches in the context of international events, but in the case of the Seamaster it’s pertinent. First released in 1948, while the world was still reeling from…

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21.03.2018

NEWS: IWC opens first Australian boutique, and the sort of watches you can expect to find inside

IWC fans rejoice – the Schaffhausen-based brand has finally found an Australian home, in the heart of Melbourne. Designed by IWC’s own architects, the boutique is located at 360 Collins Street, the city’s premier luxury shopping street, already home to many fine watch brands. But the really exciting news for fans is that the boutique means that Australia is finally in the game for those elusive boutique-only editions, and hard-to-find high-end pieces. For example, it will be the only place you’ll be able to get your hands on the super-hot 150th anniversary Big Pilot Big Date when it arrives later…

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19.03.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch is the male engagement ring

There’s a story, published by GQ way back in 2016, that periodically does the rounds of the T+T office, and not just because it has a snappy, hooky title (though it does). No, the appeal of Jessi Klein’s “Yes, there is a male engagement ring” runs a little deeper. Deeper even than that unbidden hope that our nearest and dearest will buy us the watch of our dreams (for some hints on how to make that happen, I suggest reading this). No, this article touches on the fundamentals of what a watch that’s built to last means. Timelessness, meaning, and if…

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18.03.2018

HOW TO: Follow the Time+Tide team at Baselworld 2018

The Time+Tide contingent on the ground at Baselworld 2018 is bigger, badder and more Basel-y than ever before. What this means, aside from unlocking #squadgoals achievements left, right and centre is more watches, coming at you in more ways than ever before. At the fundamental level the best way to stay up to speed is the site (that you’re currently reading), our YouTube channel, Facebook page and Instagram account. If you’ve bookmarked, subscribed, liked and followed them you’re already going to get a pretty thorough overview of Basel’s latest and greatest. But if you want to go backstage you can…

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17.03.2018

VIDEO: Russell Crowe talks exclusively to us about the stories behind his watches, and why he’s selling them

Russell Crowe. A New Zealander who became an actor. The actor who became a star. The star who became a watch collector. Late last year, Russell Crowe announced that he was auctioning off some of his possessions, from movie props to art and, intriguingly for us, watches. In early February, Rusty tweeted again, giving us some more detail on the watches he was selling. This auction I’m having April 7th in SYDNEY will feature no less than 29 watches !! Representing over half my collection . 21 or so of the ones on sale are Chronographs. Never had a flash…

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16.03.2018

VIDEO: The understated chameleon – Omega’s Seamaster Railmaster 

The Omega Seamaster Railmaster was one of the surprise hits of last year’s Basel fair. So it’s vaguely appropriate that as we’re busy speculating what we’ll see Omega release at Baselworld 2018, we look back on one of their hottest from last season. Not that we realised it at the time – the regular production Seamaster Railmaster was more of a slow burn. It’s a deceptively simple piece, lacking the hero status of its limited edition sibling, and somewhat lacking in obvious bells and whistles. Rather than being a weakness, this simplicity is the Railmaster’s greatest strength. Clean, pure design,…

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14.03.2018

VIDEO: The top 9 new women’s watches from SIHH

If I’m completely honest, women’s watches aren’t my speciality, largely because they tend (notable exceptions aside) not to look the greatest on my fairly hairy 21cm wrist. But luckily — and thankfully — Sandra Lane is on the team. So rather than flounder my way through the intricacies of stone-setting and satin straps, I defer to Sandra’s insight and expertise. And what better setting for this than that most exclusive of Maisons (and SIHH newcomer) Hermès. Ironically enough, the Hermès Sandra opted for, the Carré H, isn’t a feminine model per se, but when it comes to some of her…

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13.03.2018

HANDS-ON: The Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster – better than the original?

Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn’t the only Railmaster released last year. No, there’s also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch that formed (along with the Speedmaster and the Seamaster) one part of the triumvirate of watches that makes up the 1957 Trilogy series. The version not included in the boxed set is limited to 3557 pieces, and, like the rest of the trilogy, is a near perfect facsimile of the original. In fact, you could argue it’s more than perfect, as it preserves the…

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12.03.2018

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster

The story in a second: Behind the ultra-hyped trilogy models lays this cool, calm and not-in-any-way limited take on the Railmaster. Odd as it may seem today, but many of the enduring designs of mid-twentieth century watchmaking sprang from a very specific purpose: scientific exploration and the quest for accuracy. The Omega Railmaster, one of their original professional models, stands alongside other great names like the Milgauss, the Ingenieur and the Geophysic. And last year the Railmaster received a major upgrade. Not just in the near 1:1 limited edition re-creation but in this new interpretation: the Seamaster Railmaster. The case…

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09.03.2018

VIDEO: 5 of the best independent watches from SIHH 2018

If you know a little bit about how the world of watches works, you’ll likely know that it’s a space dominated by a few big groups (namely Richemont, Swatch and LVMH), each with their own stable of brands. SIHH is a show dominated by Richemont brands — big names like Cartier, IWC and Montblanc. But they’re not the only show in town at the Salon. Some larger independent brands, such as Richard Mille, show as well, as do a a select group of smaller names. These smaller names — low in production numbers but high in quality, innovation and prestige —…

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08.03.2018

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 special edition

TAG Heuer have, much like Marty McFly and Doc Brown, gone back to the future with their latest partnership, with Gulf Oil International. If you’re not familiar with the world of historic Heuer, the pairing of the Swiss watchmaker and venerable oil company is perhaps surprising, but one larger-than-life character pulls it all together: Steve McQueen. In 1971, during the film Le Mans, McQueen wore a Heuer Monaco while driving a Porsche 917 emblazoned with Gulf’s distinctive blue and orange stripes. Vital statistics Now, it’s not just the car that has the livery, it’s also the special edition Monaco Gulf,…

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05.03.2018

VIDEO: 6 exceptional A. Lange & Söhne watches from SIHH 2018

A. Lange & Söhne is a serious watchmaking brand. Everything they do is deliberate, and relentlessly on message. It would be easy to assume — based on this and the generally traditional nature of their timepieces — that the German brand is sober to the point of dullness, but the reality is exactly the opposite. Not only are their press presentations amongst the most consistently amusing (and informative) I’ve ever attended, but the watches themselves have fully fledged personalities that are anything but boring. Take the Saxonia Thin in Copper Blue. The Aventurine dial is fun, endlessly fascinating, and a perfect…

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02.03.2018

HANDS-ON: Sportier, stealthier – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in black ceramic

Since its surprise reveal a little over a year ago, the Laureato has become an increasingly significant player in the luxury sports category, thanks to its crowd-pleasing good looks and impressive mechanics. SIHH 2018 showed us that the Laureato is an increasingly important part of GP’s lineup too, as handsome new chronograph variants dominated their latest batch novelties. But I was particularly taken by this black ceramic-on-rubber offering. Announced late last year, to me this Laureato really lives up to its sporty pedigree, thanks to its hard-wearing 42mm lightweight ceramic construction and rubber strap. Now, typically I’d advocate for the…

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01.03.2018

HANDS-ON: High-end quartz – Grand Seiko celebrates the 25th anniversary of the 9F with two limited editions (SBGT241 and SBGV238)

If you’re a regular reader, I’m willing to bet that your views around quartz timekeeping will be pretty negative. After all, this is a technology that was (almost) responsible for the downfall of mechanical watches. But, as you’re about to find out, not all quartz watches were created equal. Sure, there’s the cheap and cheerful plastic contraptions that consist of battery, circuit board and a very big spacer. And then there’s the 9F. Seiko pioneered quartz technology with the release of the Astron back in 1969, and they’ve innovated ever since. Of all their many achievements in the field, one…

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28.02.2018

VIDEO: 5 standout Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris watches from SIHH 2018

One of the strongest, all-round collections of SIHH was, without a doubt, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris. Coming off a strong 2017 lineup, JLC hit all the right notes with their brand new Polaris collection. While this five-strong family of watches is clearly influenced by the Polaris of yore (for more on that, check out Andy’s look at the origins of the model), this is more interpretation than pure homage. Sure, there’s the Polaris Memovox, which is the closest the collection gets to a one-for-one reissue, but there are also relatively simple automatic and date models (the date is my pick of…

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26.02.2018

INTRODUCING: Bremont returns to the deep with new Supermarine S501 and updated S500 models

The Bremont Supermarine, first released in 2009, has long been a serious dive watch, and one that stood out from the rest of the submersible pack. Last year, Bremont released the S300, a smaller, more civilian-friendly take on the genre that was, unsurprisingly, wildly popular. So it was inevitable that the larger S500 received a makeover, a cosmetic upgrade to keep the look in line with the S300. Vital statistics Two watches, the S500/BL and S500/BK (in blue and black respectively), are evolutions of existing models: the dial has been redesigned, with the blue being altered to match the tone…

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26.02.2018

INTRODUCING: Night fighter – the Bremont U-2/51-JET

Bremont have always been (rightfully) proud of their strong relationships with various military services, squadrons and organisations, be they active or off-duty. Nowhere is that lineage more evident than the U-2, originally designed for squadrons flying Lockheed U-2s, reconnaissance and spy planes that are, incidentally, among the few planes to be in active service for more than 50 years. So it’s only logical that the latest version, the U-2/51-JET, is a decidedly stealthy take on the model. Vital statistics While the U-2 was originally inspired by the eponymous spy plane, this iteration takes its cues from the Hawk TI Jets…

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26.02.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Blue Monday – the Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Sapphire

Editor’s note: Feeling a little bit of the old Monday-itis? Looking for a watch to put some pep in your step? Well, we’re here for you, and so is this very big, bright blue, crystal clear Hublot. For all its out-there charms, it’s impossible to look down at this watch, or strap it to your wrist, without smiling. So read on to chase away those start-of-the-week blues.  Hublot’s sapphire journey began with their ultra high-end MP-05 LaFerrari, a horological engine in the truest sense of the word, with 50 days of power reserve thanks to 11 coupled barrels. It made…

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