Editor
Felix Scholz
Felix has been writing about watches for over nine years, having written for Hodinkee and Revolution before becoming the editor of Time+Tide. Aside from the ingenuity of mechanical watches as complex and beautiful machines, Felix is most interested in watches as objects of culture and style. Felix believes there’s just as much merit in an exquisitely hand-finished tourbillon as there is in a beaten-up dive watch, or diamond-set fashion piece. He’s interested in what draws people to watches, and how people express their style through their wrists.

Posts by Felix:

17.02.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Eye of the tiger – Tudor’s Black Bay S&G

Editor’s note: Way back at Basel 2017 we instinctively christened the Black Bay S&G ‘Le Tigre’ when we first saw it. And, passing jokes aside, this watch has stalked our idle thoughts, much as its carnivorous namesake stalks its prey through the dense brush. Our cameraman Marcus has already succumbed, picking one up late last year. Who will be next? Read on to discover the secret behind the power of … Le Tigre. The story in a second:  Two-tone is back, baby! Steel and gold watches have been around for years. Hitting peak popularity around 30 years ago, they were the…

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16.02.2018

VIDEO: The best Montblanc watches of SIHH 2018

The more distance and time I’ve had to reflect on SIHH 2018, the more I’m inclined to think that the calibre of the exhibiting collections was – overall – very high. The very top end of town was well represented but of more interest to me (and I suspect a lot of you reading this), the offerings at the less stratospheric price points were plentiful, interesting and attractive. Case in point – Montblanc. Montblanc’s hero collections were the greatly expanded and slightly re-imagined 1858 collection, and the classically styled Star Legacy, both full of the sort of value-packed, thoughtful watches that…

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15.02.2018

RECOMMENDED READING: The Rolex Submariner, deconstructed

If you follow the world of independent watchmaking you’re likely familiar with the name Peter Speake-Marin. Until recently, Speake-Marin was the man behind the eponymous watch brand. After 17 years, the English watchmaker stepped away from the brand (which is still in business) and announced a new venture – The Naked Watchmaker — a site that bills itself as a sort of horological encyclopaedia, utilising Peter’s formidable watchmaking skills to strip watches down to their barest essentials, taking numerous macro photos along the way, with brief (not overly technical) explanation. It’s an excellent resource, regardless of where you are on your…

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14.02.2018

VIDEO: 4 great Ulysse Nardin watches from SIHH 2018

Ulysse Nardin showed a refreshingly diverse collection at SIHH, with everything from clean, simple (dare we say, classic) designs, all the way up to the incredibly complex and cutting edge. So, as you can imagine, our favourite picks cover off both ends of the spectrum, from daily wear to more special occasion pieces. And while we kept our focus to four models, there’s a few honourable mentions, particularly the new Torpilleur models, and the epic Deep Dive. Ulysse Nardin Classico Last year, we were collectively besotted by the blue enamel, guilloche Classico. This year, we fell in love all over…

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08.02.2018

HANDS-ON: Suit ready – the Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio – 45mm 

When it came to Panerai’s latest collection, we’ve already covered off how the Luminor Due was the surprise star. And while it’s fair to say the smaller models accounted for a disproportionate amount of the noise, there was strong representation at the larger end of the scales. In particular this watch, PAM 00944, a full-cream 45mm case, which — thanks to its Due status — still slips under the cuff with far more ease than its ‘regular’ Luminor brethren. And, to be honest, this watch is made with suits of the finer cut very much in mind. The polished 316L…

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06.02.2018

VIDEO: Panerai’s Luminor Due collection – one of the biggest surprises of SIHH 2018

If you had said to me, on the eve of SIHH 2018, that the one brand I would be most surprised by at SIHH would be Panerai, I honestly wouldn’t have believed you. Panerai have gotten to where they are today by following the sort of slow and steady product development path that luxury and timeless style is built upon. Next thing you know, I’m in the Panerai press presentation, quietly losing my mind (and not because of the incredible Lo Scienziato). No, I’m losing it because Panerai’s 2018 line-up is dominated not by the big, bold 45mm watches I’ve…

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05.02.2018

INSIGHT: Designing A. Lange & Söhne – part 3, the tone of type

Typography matters. The choice of font or type is a more complicated matter than merely the arrangement of letters used and the order in which they appear. It’s something designers and branding specialists know only too well: the sub-textual information communicated through the subtle language of serif, weight and kerning. Take the word ‘apple’, for example. Typically, that arrangement of letters evokes the fruit. Capitalise the ‘a’ and write it in Avenir, a font designed by Adrian Frutiger in 1988, and the meaning instantly morphs to that of the sleekly designed products of the Cupertino giant. The heaviness of this…

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04.02.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at the Longines Heritage 1918

Editor’s note: Even though the dust of SIHH has barely settled, things are heating up for Baselworld. And one of our burning questions is … what awesome heritage piece is Longines going to pull from their archives? They’ve had a good run over the last few years, including this cracking take on a traditional trench watch – the Longines Heritage 1918. Justin Mastine Frost explains … There’s no arguing that the vintage reissue trend is still going strong, though this latest offering from Longines digs further back into the archives than we were expecting. Their newly unveiled Heritage 1918 draws…

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03.02.2018

INSIGHT: Designing A. Lange & Söhne – part 2, the detail in the dial

There are few dials as instantly recognisable in the world of modern watchmaking as that of the Lange 1. This circular watch, with its off-centre hours and minutes dial, subsidiary seconds, power reserve and that instantly recognisable big date. In the opinion of Caragh McKay, watches and jewellery director at Wallpaper* (and founder of McKay Gurney), this distinctive dial is a real classic. “The Lange 1 is the core model for me … the codes are such – clean, big, sublime finishing – that you’d always recognise a Lange design across a watch-crowded room. I’m always drawn to the sheer…

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03.02.2018

HANDS-ON: Fun in the sun – the Seiko Prospex SSC673P diver’s chronograph 

If you’re looking for a watch with bells, whistles and some serious style, you should probably check out this feature-heavy diver, the Seiko Prospex SSC673P. It’s part of a series of three limited edition blacked-out divers called — appropriately enough — the Black Series. The other watches are time-only affairs, in automatic and solar configurations, whereas this addition adds some complication to the equation. But first, the basics. With a substantial 43.5mm case, screw-down crown and pushers, and a broad black aluminium bezel topping off the fully black case, this watch clearly has a bold on-the-wrist presence. Add to that…

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02.02.2018

HANDS-ON: Light in the darkness – the Seiko Prospex SNE493P

Late last year, Seiko announced a series of limited edition Prospex divers, featuring blacked-out cases and the evocative name of ‘The Black Series’. The story behind the name and the black-and-orange concept is the murky, mysterious world of night diving. But honestly, for me this watch is less about the story behind it and more about the sheer hotness of the watches. It’s fair to say that the darling of the trio is the SRPC49K, a stealthy take on their popular ‘Turtle’. But there are two other options in the mix. We’ll look at the chronograph tomorrow, but today we’re…

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31.01.2018

VIDEO: 4 outstanding new Cartier watches from SIHH

Visiting Cartier at SIHH is always an experience. Not only does the floorspace of the maison’s booth outstrip that of any other, but there’s always a sense of effortless cool, matched only by the sort of self-assurance that only comes from having been masters of your craft for a long, long time. Cartier Santos de Cartier Take, for example, the Cartier Santos. The watch, which lays claim to being the first modern wristwatch, was born in 1904, and is wearing its age well. This year, Cartier gave the model some smart, user-friendly upgrades – most notably the QuickSwitch strap changing…

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30.01.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Seiko’s all-black Prospex diver – the ‘Darth Turtle’

Editor’s note: We originally broke the news of Seiko’s limited edition ‘Black Series’ late last year, and the watches are finally hitting Australian stores (and being rapidly snapped up by all accounts — get in quick). The hero of the pack is, without doubt, this blacked-out version of their popular ‘Turtle’, the SRPC49K. As you will read below, I tried to get the nickname of ‘Night Diver’ to stick, but social media has spoken (as it is wont to do), and declared this model is the Darth Turtle. Whatever you think of the name, there’s no denying that the force is…

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29.01.2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger’s Sky-Dweller – Mirka Federer’s Rolex Yacht-Master is next level

Last night, Roger Federer confirmed his GOAT status with his sixth Australian Open win, beating 29-year-old Marin Cilic in three hours in the sweltering Melbourne heat.   Roger Federer — the first man to win 20 Grand Slam titles — is one of Rolex’s most important international testimonees, so it was no surprise he was wearing the latest and greatest Sky-Dweller in white gold Rolesor (with blue dial) as he hoisted the cup. But, much like last year, our eyes were distracted from Fed’s Sky-Dweller by Mirka Federer and her dazzling wrist. Last year, Mirka outshone her husband with a…

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28.01.2018

VIDEO: IWC’s Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years”

For over 30 years the Portofino has been amongst IWC’s dressiest offerings, with a rounded Lépine-inspired case, and elegant, elongated Roman numerals. So it comes as no surprise that the line has a prominent place in IWC’s 150th anniversary collection. And while there’s simpler offerings, such as the Automatic and the Chronograph, our eyes (and hearts) were drawn to the more complex Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years”. Looking at the watch its easy to see why. 45mm of rich red gold protecting the calibre 59800, with moon phase and power reserve, all topped off with that deep, deep blue…

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27.01.2018

VIDEO: All thriller, no filler – Felix’s 5 favourites from SIHH 2018 

If you’ve been paying attention to my recent spate of best-of/top lists (and if you haven’t, what’s wrong with you?!), you’ll know that I have a sense of style and taste that is dazzling in its brilliance, mercurial in its consistency, and as sophisticated as white tie at a garden party. I’ve recently sung my praises for gem-set wonders, hi-tech wrist gadgets that stretch the conceptual definition of ‘watch’, and occasionally a smaller, vintage-inspired piece. So, going into SIHH 2018, knowing that I’d have to come up with a smart, snappy and sassy ‘top 5’ a few days later, I…

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26.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years”

Designing a collection as wide and as important as IWC’s jubilee collection must represent quite the challenge. It needs to be new and innovative, but also remain true to the brand’s deepest roots. I think, by and large, that IWC have done a fine job. Not only does the diverse, 27-watch collection have a clear, unifying theme, thanks to the richly lacquered white and blue dials, but the selection of models is a good balance of their greatest hits and historically significant models. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” fits into both camps quite neatly. The important reference …

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23.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years” 

IWC’s Portugieser line is, in Australia at least, one of their most popular — and, of all the models, one of the perennial favourites is the classically handsome Portugieser Chronograph. Which is why we’re particularly interested in the Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years”. Quick recap in case you’ve been living under a rock for the last week or so: This year, IWC turns 150 (and we don’t mind saying that they’re looking quite good for their age), and one of the ways they’re celebrating the big occasion is with watches. Specifically, 27 special limited editions, released across five key lines. Now,…

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21.01.2018

HANDS-ON: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT is, in marked contrast to the Polaris Automatic, a complex beast indeed, with (as you could probably guess) both chronograph and world time functionality in the one case. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this complication-combo, as the very impressive Calibre 752 pops up in sportier parts of their collection. But while previous incarnations have been quite modern in their style, the bi-compax chrono and world time are well suited to the old-world inspired looks of the Polaris. Nothing vintage about the case though – this 44mm titanium number is thoroughly modern. And, sure,…

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20.01.2018

HANDS ON: How to update an icon – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier 

It’s a tricky task upgrading a storied and legendary watch such as the Santos — you must innovate while appearing to be unchanging. It’s a job that Cartier have pulled off with aplomb at SIHH 2018. The new Santos is the star in their masculine line-up, a sensitive update that brings the design very much up to date. But first, a quick origin story. The Santos claims the enviable title of the first modern wristwatch, made by Louis Cartier in 1904 for Brazilian aviator, bon vivant and (apparently) all-round cool guy Alberto Santos-Dumont. The watch quickly caught on and has…

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19.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

The Polaris – as Andy recently informed us – is one of those truly iconic watches conceived in a golden age, not just of watchmaking but also of global exploration. This year the Polaris got the nod for the remake and revamp treatment, being offered in five new models, starting with the deceptively simple Polaris Automatic. The uncomplicated, no fuss Polaris Automatic is the entry-level ticket to JLC’s brand new sports watch collection. The dual crowns hark back to the original, but this is no Memovox. Instead, one crown governs time-setting and the other looks after the internal bezel. At…

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17.01.2018

VIDEO: 4 standout Girard-Perregaux watches from SIHH 2018

It’s clear that Girard-Perregaux have decided they’re onto a winner with their sporty-yet-luxurious Laureato, as new versions of the model dominated the brand’s SIHH 2018 line-up. Laureato Chronograph The piece I gravitated towards was the Laureato Chronograph, a modular upgrade to the regular automatic; the familiar Clous de Paris texture of the dial joined by three snailed subdials, while the case — in both 38 and 42mm options — has grown some crown guards and octagonal screw-down pushers that are actually easy to screw down. A real joy to use, and it doesn’t look too bad on the wrist either.…

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15.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 1858 Chronograph

According to Montblanc’s Head of Watches, Davide Cerrato, the 1858 collection — the star of their SIHH 2018 lineup — is a “very important second sports line, one that really extends the offer of Montblanc, an offer that before was completely focused on classical watches”. At the core of the 1858 collection’s identity is its vintage style. Cerrato explains: “The vintage look refers to the first Minerva military watch. There’s the SuperLuminova, the cathedral hands, the domed sapphire crystal, the simple – but very strong – case.” All these points are very much in evidence on the 1858 Chronograph, which, like…

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15.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 1858 Automatic

In 2016, Montblanc announced a new line, the 1858, a vintage-inspired sports collection. This year, under the keen direction of Montblanc’s Head of Watches Davide Cerrato, the entire 1858 line has received a stylish and oh-so-smart update. There are more complex versions, but the entry-level piece is this, the Montblanc 1858 Automatic. Montblanc 1858 Automatic steel and bronze with black dial (ident 117832 – 117833) There’s a lot to like about these watches, but before we go into details, let’s talk about what the difference is between these and the original 1858 watches. The most significant change is the size, down…

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15.01.2018

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere, an explorer’s watch in steel and bronze

While the automatic, chronograph and Minerva versions of the 1858 collection bear a strong resemblance to the existing 1858 watches, the Geosphere is something else entirely. It’s also a watch that speaks most directly to the “spirit of mountain exploration” that underpins the line. Like all the watches Montblanc have released at SIHH 2018, the 1858 Geosphere is rugged, sporty and quite retro. But on top of this, the 1858 Geosphere has maps on the dial, and a compass on the bezel. But before we get to the details, let’s look at the bigger picture. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere steel with…

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15.01.2018

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges Skeleton

For a brand with a long, rich history, Girard-Perregaux is a dab hand at the ultra-modern, as evidenced by this Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges Skeleton. This watch is the first skeletonised execution of the Neo Tourbillon. And while there’s no denying that this 45mm titanium-cased marvel of miniaturised engineering is – indeed – a watch, from the right angles you could easily mistake it for a scale model of a particularly audacious and artistic building project. The Neo Tourbillon is dominated, as you would expect, by the horizontal bridges, curved and shimmering thanks to the bezelled, sandblasted black PVD-finished bridges…

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13.01.2018

VIDEO: Just what is SIHH anyway? 

In a few hours, Andrew and I are getting on a plane for the long (long) haul to Geneva — where, bright and early on Monday morning, we will head to the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH to its friends. It’s an acronym you’re going to be hearing a heck of a lot about over the next week, and if you’re new to the whole watch situation you just might be scratching your head as to what it is, and why it matters. Well, here’s Andrew’s explanation of last year’s Salon. SIHH 2018 will be pretty similar, only…

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11.01.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Summer suited – the Longines Legend Diver

Editor’s note: This week we’ve been all about summer watches, which leads, not surprisingly, into the realm of divers. And while many dive watches tend to be ultra-masculine, even slightly hyperbolic affairs, the Legend Diver from Longines cuts a smoother figure, especially on this mesh bracelet. It’s like an old-school gentleman in a world that seems, at times, to have forgotten its manners. A while ago we had a look at one of the classic watches from Longines’ catalogue, the Legend Diver – a heritage diver inspired by old-school super compressors. The Legend has always been popular amongst watch lovers, and an…

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10.01.2018

HANDS-ON: Like a sunrise on the wrist – the Halios Seaforth

Every November/December, like clockwork, I start pondering what constitutes the perfect summer watch, due in large part to the fact that in these months the mercury begins to rise rapidly. So what makes a summer watch? To be a contender, I think a timepiece must have three essential characteristics: water resistance, weather-suitability and a fun personality. This Halios Seaforth delivers on all fronts. Halios, if you’re not familiar, are a small Canada-based microbrand, who have risen to the top of the multitudinous mass of microbrands through their constantly strong watches, which are well built and — importantly — original when…

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09.01.2018

INTRODUCING: The Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition 

Oris have just unveiled the latest take on their popular Divers Sixty-Five line — the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition, a follow-up to 2016’s popular bronze LE, named in honour of US Navy Master Diver Carl Brashear. The overall look and feel of this 43mm LE is familiar: a bronze case with deep, inky blue dial — with one notable difference. This is a chronograph, and a really neatly executed one at that. The dial is clean, with the large sub registers offering balance and symmetry, with no half-eaten numbers, date windows or overly busy scales to detract from the…

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07.01.2018

VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 – $20,000 and above

The sky’s the limit in this final instalment of the best watches of 2017 – and the entry price to this exclusive club starts at a cool $20K. For this you can expect hot ceramic, classical tourbillons, cutting-edge design, ingenious engineering, and finishing to die for. Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 Ah, the equation of time! It’s one of the most esoteric complications in the world of high horology, and Breguet’s innovative and deceptively simple display means that telling the difference between civil and solar time has never been this simple. $296,000 A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le…

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06.01.2018

VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 – $10,000-20,000

Things start getting serious in the $10-20k price point. In our fourth (and penultimate) ‘best watches of 2017’ video we showcase innovative materials, double dials, big crowns, thin winners and more. Panerai Submersible 1950 BMG-Tech 3 Days Automatic – 47mm Smart style and an even smarter case material ensures that Panerai’s BMG-Tech made our list, proving there’s always a place for a big, bad, 47mm diver. $13,850 Rolex Sky-Dweller No surprises here. The new Rolesor Sky-Dweller is up there with the hottest watches of 2017, offering a compelling combination of Rolex brand power, complication and a smartly streamlined dial design.…

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05.01.2018

VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 – $5000 – 10,000

For the third instalment in our video series of the best watches of 2017, we’re talking about watches priced between $5000 and $10,000, including a versatile Omega, a couple of chronos and some more dressy options. Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono The Tudor Black Bay landscape got a little complicated this year with the addition of a chronograph to the family. And the extra detail isn’t just on the dial side — the movement, the result of a new partnership with Breitling, is quite interesting too. From $5690 Tag Heuer Autavia Heritage Heuer fans rejoice! The Autavia was re-released in…

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04.01.2018

VIDEO: The Best Watches of 2017 – $1000 – 5000

Next up in our holiday season wrap-up of the great value watches, we’re talking about the best watches of 2017 priced between $1000 and $5000. Same rooftop bar, same banter, but new shirts and (more importantly) new watches. Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer It makes perfect sense for a Pilot’s watch to have a second time zone. It makes even more sense for that time zone to be easily and intuitively adjusted. And adjustments don’t come much more easy or intuitive than the quick bezel change on this Oris. $5000 Longines Avigation BigEye The well-priced winner of the GPHG’s revival…

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03.01.2018

VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 under $1000

In the last days of last year we decamped from our regular, air-conditioned office for a sun-drenched bar high above the Melbourne CBD. But unlike every other company who had the same idea, we were more work-y, less party. We were recording a series of ‘best of’ lists … like this wrap-up of the year’s best watches of 2017 under $1000. Seiko Presage Cocktail Time The international launch of Seiko’s dressy Presage Cocktail Time caused a stir (or is that a muddle?) this year, and with one of the best dials under $1K it’s very easy to see why. From…

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02.01.2018

VIDEO: Felix’s top 10 watches of 2017

We’ve been rolling pretty list heavy at Time+Tide over the past few weeks, and typically those lists are the result of (sometimes vigourous) team discussion. Well, this one is different in that’s its 100 per cent Felix, for better or (as Andrew found out) more surprising. So, in no particular order, here’s my top 10… Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer Timeless style and a seriously impressive movement ensured the Aqua Terra won over the pragmatic side of my heart. My only dilemma is — which version? Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic I’ve loved this watch from the first time I…

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01.01.2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at the TAG Heuer Autavia – one of the most exciting chronographs of 2017

Editor’s note: The Autavia is one of the most storied chronographs in history, and its return to form at Baselworld 2017 was highly anticipated. Thankfully for fans, the reissue did not disappoint — the new model not only looked the part but also delivered a serious movement upgrade. We can’t wait to find out what Autavia-shaped surprises this year’s Basel fair holds … The new Autavia is finally here. Twelve months after TAG Heuer announced the Autavia Cup — an innovative, open design process that allowed fans to have their say on the look of the final product — the new Autavia…

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31.12.2017

YEAR IN REVIEW 2017: Letter from the Editor

I’m writing this, alone in the office on the last day of the year, with a whiskey and a mango on my desk (don’t ask), and it seems like the perfect time to look back on the year that was — savouring a brief, indulgent moment of reflection about 2017, before jumping, feet first into 2018. And while there are a few routes I could follow down memory lane, for me it can all be neatly summed up in three numbers … 565: We’ve published 565 stories in the last year, which is (from where I’m sitting at least) quite…

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30.12.2017

LIST: The top 10 watch reviews of 2017 – part 2

Yesterday we published the first part of our most-read reviews of 2017, covering off Bulgari, Grand Seiko, Rolex, Longines and some more Rolex (for good measure). Today we go through the top five watch reviews of 2017, with some expected and some more surprising results … 5: IN-DEPTH: Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono – greater than the sum of its parts? Baselworld always delivers a surprise or two, and this year it was courtesy of Tudor, and their first in-house, integrated chronograph. The biggest surprise wasn’t that the Black Bay DNA could handle a chrono, but rather that much of the…

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29.12.2017

LIST: The top 10 watch reviews of 2017 – part 1

Reviewing watches isn’t everything we do, but it’s certainly the heart of it. And this year we’ve photographed, videoed and generally dissected some of the best. So, in the tradition of end-of-year wrap-ups we thought it an excellent idea to run through our top 10 watch reviews of 2017, according to the cold hard stats of our analytics engine. Today we’re going through numbers 10 to five, kicking off with Bulgari’s slender superstar … 10: HANDS-ON: Barely there brilliance – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Some watches have a serious honeymoon period, starting with that first blush of excitement at…

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27.12.2017

LIST: Felix Scholz’s favourite stories of 2017

One of the highlights for me this year has been the increasing number of regular contributors writing on Time+Tide. Whereas a few years ago T+T was essentially the Andrew and Felix show, the last 12 months has seen new voices and fresh perspectives join the mix. I couldn’t be happier. This is also reflected in the increasing diversity of our stories. News and reviews are still at the core of what we do, but as you can see it’s not the be-all and end-all. Here are five stories I’m particularly proud of from this year. VIDEO: Which TAG Heuer Monaco…

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24.12.2017

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko re-creation in yellow gold (ref. SBGW252)

When we think of Grand Seiko, it’s easy to associate them with classic but slightly left-of-centre designs: architectural case lines and instantly recognisable designs. Which is why this watch was such a surprise when we first saw it — it’s a deeply traditional dress watch design. A simple round case, in yellow gold no less (though there are steel and platinum versions too), seems like it’s from a different time, which makes perfect sense, as the watch, the SBGW252, is a re-creation of the first Grand Seiko from 1960. And of all the versions, this yellow gold number has to…

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Hublot Big Bang watch 18.12.2017

VIDEO: Halo effect — the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 in King Gold

I’ve been a big fan of Hublot’s Meccano-inspired Meca-10 ever since I saw it in the metal. For me it manages to be super new and exciting for Hublot, yet also 100 per cent on brand. At the heart of this watch (and its appeal) is the movement. The HUB1201 is a big old manual wind, with two barrels packing in a potent 10 days of power reserve (hence the 10 in the name), and spiced up with some typically Hublot skeletonised architecture. It’s a cool movement, but this new golden incarnation gives it a whole new mood. Other versions…

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16.12.2017

LIST: The 11 best watch photos we took this year … according to the man who took them

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide there’s a chance you’ve noticed my name, along with those of Andrew McUtchen, Andy Green, Sandra Lane, Cameron Wong and Melissa Pearce. After all, we’re the people writing the stories and voicing the videos that we publish. But beyond the byline there’s a small host of people who make the magic happen: videographers, editors and photographers. Jason Reekie is one such magician. He’s been our photographer for a few years now, and is responsible for making some of the nicest watches in the world look even nicer. Now, one thing that’s important to…

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14.12.2017

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, a big, 47mm titanium beast with antimagnetic innards and an oh-so-sexy ceramic bezel. This powerful diver is a watch entirely in keeping with Panerai’s core values. Fast forward to 2017 and we’ve got a new and improved version of this Luminor Submersible, with an updated reference number to match — PAM 1389. Functionally and aesthetically not too much has  changed, it’s still the same Luminor 1950 case, complete with that iconic crown guard. The bezel is still ceramic, with those excellent recessed interval markers and large lume pip at 12. But a…

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13.12.2017

HANDS-ON: Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Garde-Côtes

A few months ago we had a look at the Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Garde-Côtes, an orange-accented twist on their vintage chronograph. Well, today we’re going to pare it back a little further, with the time and date BR V2-92 Garde-Côtes. Looking at Jason’s excellent photos of this watch it should be quite apparent the sort of watch you’re looking at here. A no-fuss 41mm automatic, with a bright personality. That personality comes, of course, from the bright orange chapter ring and the day-glow seconds hand. But there’s more points of interest at play than just these peacock elements.…

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12.12.2017

HANDS-ON: An exercise in subtlety – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon

‘Novelty’ is one of the most abused words in the watch industry. Practically, it’s used to describe the steady stream of new models and designs being produced by watchmaking brands. But on top of that, it conveys a sense of newness and — marketing departments fervently hope — excitement. For example, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2017 novelties were their Master Control trilogy — they excited people, and rightfully so. And while this grey-dialled Master Ultra Thin Moon is a new release, it’s not really a novelty — it didn’t make headlines at SIHH, and doesn’t showcase any innovations in mechanics or material. But despite this…

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12.12.2017

LIST: 5 watches with investment potential … and the car to match

Whenever long-term friend (and sometime contributor) to T+T Ben Zachariah drops into the office, talk quickly turns to the fact that in every car guy there’s a watch guy waiting to get out (and vice versa). Because although Ben is very much into the horological, he’s even more into the automotive; unsurprising, given that he’s the man behind car investment firm Harris & Silverman. And with watch brands targeting their classic car tie-ins more aggressively than ever before — as well as a certain Daytona hitting the block — our chats about these two intersecting interests have taken more of…

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10.12.2017

VIDEO: Black Bay Celebration – we look at the evolution of Tudor’s smash hit

In 2017 the Black Bay is a force to be reckoned with, a retro reissue that has fuelled Tudor’s ascendancy to the powerhouse it is today. And while these days we’re used to having a range of colours and case finishing to play with, it’s hard to overstate just how hot this watch was when it was first released in 2012, and how it got even hotter the following year, when the blue version dropped. The Black Bay isn’t just a (very excellent) dive watch, it’s a tribal marker of community. So we thought it was the perfect opportunity to…

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09.12.2017

LIST: The 10 best heritage reissues of 2017

Ah, the heritage reissue. AKA vintage-inspired or revival watchmaking. Whatever you call it, it’s clear that this trend is here to stay, with vintage-inspired designs running the full gamut of incredibly faithful reproductions of historic models to more modern interpretations with a retro feel. Omega Railmaster We know the Railmaster had to make this list, but the only question is — which one? Do you go for the super legit, super limited reissue of the 1957 original, or go with the vintage-esque vibes of the regular production, Master Chronometer version? Availability and a seriously smart price meant we opted for…

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08.12.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

The story in a second: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver transitions smoothly from the sky to the sea. In the time I spent with the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver I came to think of it as an armoured car. Not the conspicuously bulked up and blinged-out vehicle beloved by the A-list, instead this diver is more akin to the subtly strengthened Land Cruiser, one that looks significantly like the regular model, but can handle IEDs and assault rifles. To me that’s what this Bell & Ross is — a super tough take on the brand’s famous…

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06.12.2017

IN-DEPTH: Tudor’s Black Bay Steel is the real deal

The story in a second: When the going gets tough, wear a Black Bay Steel. Did you know that this year the Black Bay family is five years old? Well, it is, and the fundamental design isn’t showing any signs of flagging. Case in point is this watch, which represents the Black Bay stripped back to its essentials. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel. The case There’s not too much to be said about the case of the Black Bay Steel that hasn’t already been said about every other Black Bay. It’s steel, it’s 41mm across and has those high,…

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05.12.2017

VIDEO: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay

At Time+Tide we typically focus on the new – the latest reviews and news. But there’s always a place for the stone-cold classics, which is why, when we had a bunch of Black Bays in the office (more on that later in the week), we thought we’d take the opportunity to have a look at the Black Bays that started it all: the red, blue and black versions. And while these versions (which we borrowed from friends – thanks guys!) are the older, ETA models, they’re still pretty indicative of what this retro diver is all about. So while you’re…

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05.12.2017

VIDEO: Exceptionally classic – the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat

Editor’s note: We’re very much on the record as being proud members of team Drive, so it was with real excitement that we had a look at the new models shown off at SIHH at the start of this year. And while the Moon Phases probably has the edge in terms of everyday wearability, when it comes to class, it’s hard to beat the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat.  One of the standout watches of last year was the Drive de Cartier. The collection impressed with its assured case shape — a pleasing blend of robustness and classicism that, for many, epitomised what…

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04.12.2017

VIDEO: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver splashes down 

Some people say that a leopard can’t change its spots, and you know what? Some people are wrong, as the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver clearly proves. The French watch brand earned their stripes with an impressive array of aviation watches, centred on the square, cockpit-inspired BR 03 case. Well, it turns out that this large, striking design works just as well at depth as it does at altitude. The BR 03-92 Diver is a remarkably smart underwater repurposing of the brand’s famous form. But really, not too much had to be changed. A bezel was added, as was…

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04.12.2017

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph

Earlier this year I had a chance to have a look at Montblanc’s pre-SIHH offerings in scenic Wyoming, including this smart new evolution of the TimeWalker, the TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph. There are two big changes to this 43mm sports chronograph; let’s start with the most obvious first. The dial. Instead of the black or silver tones of the existing TimeWalker chronos, this time we get some added vintage style, in the form of the ever-popular ‘panda’ dial (so named because the black on white layout looks a little like the endangered bear). The matt dial finish has a slight creamy…

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03.12.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer

The story in a second: Maybe it didn’t get to the moon, but this Speedmaster still excites. Earlier this week, we ran a video review of the black-dialled Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer. Well, we liked it so much we thought we’d go into a little more detail, with the very different feeling grey-dialled version. The case It’s a Speedmaster, so no real surprises with the case. It looks and feels much like every other Speedmaster, except for its contemporary dimensions: it clocks in larger than your regular Speedy, at a not insubstantial 44.25mm wide, but it wears well, and…

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30.11.2017

HANDS-ON: Seiko show their dark side with the Prospex SSC673P and SNE493P

Seiko has just released three limited edition black divers, and they couldn’t be hotter. We’ve already shown you the automatic SRPC49K, but there are two solar options on the table as well. The SSC673P is a stealthy version of the SSC618P we looked at a little while ago. It’s worth noting that in these images the 15-minute demarcation period on the bezel is quite pale. We shot a pre-production model, and I’m not sure if the colour will be the same on the final model. It measures 43.5mm across and is powered by the cal. V175. Seiko Prospex SSC673P Moving…

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30.11.2017

VIDEO: Blacked-out beauty – the Seiko Prospex SRPC49K

Seiko dive watches are a perennial favourite. They’re tough-as, look the business, and have a history as long and proud as any. Whether it’s the coveted SLA017, or the classic Turtle, they’ve got a strong rep, and cult following. The Seiko faithful are going to be very happy with this latest limited edition – the SRPC49K, which we’ve taken the liberty of nicknaming ‘the night diver’ (I’m really hoping this catches on). We’re going to let these stunning pictures do most of the talking, but here are the details we have so far: The SRPC49K is a blacked-out variant of…

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30.11.2017

VIDEO: A modern take on a classic – the Grand Seiko SBGR305

The belles of Grand Seiko’s Baselworld ball this year were three takes on the first Grand Seiko, a buttoned-up dress watch that managed to be both effortlessly timeless and very of-its-time, all at once. Grand Seiko released steel, yellow gold and platinum takes on the classic, but they also released a completely new interpretation, the SBGR305, a watch very much in the same vein, but with numerous contemporary touches, such as the larger 40.5mm case, the brilliant hard titanium case material (a proprietary, extra hard version of the lightweight metal), and the addition of a date. The dial, too, is…

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29.11.2017

HANDS-ON: The Cvstos Challenge GT Chronograph

Over the last few years there’s been a lot of noise about how the watch industry has returned to smaller sized watches, abandoning the larger diameters that dominated wrists in the last decade. And while it’s true that we are seeing more new watches in the 36-40mm range, that doesn’t mean that the ‘go large or go home’ brigade isn’t well represented, as these two monsters from Cvstos clearly demonstrate. You’re looking at two watches from the Cvstos Challenge collection. Large, sporty tonneaus with formidable dimensions of 45mm from side to side, and 59mm from lug-tip to lug-tip. The orange…

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28.11.2017

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer gets our motor running

Given how synonymous Omega’s Speedmaster is with space in general and the moon in particular, it’s quite easy to forget that the watch was originally designed with motorsports in mind. This year, Omega set out to remind us that the Speedmaster does not always equal Moonwatch, with the Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer, a big, 44.5mm dual register automatic that honours the spirit of the Speedy, but also spices things up with numerous automotive touches. Starting with the perforated racing strap, with flashes of orange peeking out from between the lining. Then there’s the high-vis orange highlights on the dial, and…

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27.11.2017

VIDEO: One watch to do it all – The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ203

If you were looking for a go-anywhere-do-anything type watch (and honestly, aren’t we all?), then a stylistically versatile steel GMT on a bracelet would tick a lot of the boxes. And as far as versatile steel GMTs go, there aren’t too many options that offer quite as much as Grand Seiko’s SBGJ203. It’s got the looks: a distinctive, angular and exceptionally well-finished 40mm case, paired with a rich dial that sets an exceptionally high bar for the competition. There’s fine detail at play, but it’s not a watch to peacock its virtues, or to sacrifice comfort and function in favour…

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25.11.2017

LIST: The 12 best dive watches of 2017

It’s something of a truism to say that everybody loves a good dive watch, regardless of their scuba certification status. Watch brands know this, and their 2017 releases did not disappoint, offering retro to futuristic and everything in-between. Rolex Sea-Dweller Without doubt the biggest dive watch of the year is the hotly anticipated Rolex Sea-Dweller, with expanded case, improved movement and single red dial text. And while not everyone’s a fan of the added cyclops, it’s still one of the hardest new-release watches to track down right now. RRP $14,400 Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook At the opposite end of the…

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24.11.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 24th November 2017

The Wind Down this week is a little bit terrifying to be honest. You know why? Christmas in just over a month, SIHH 2018 in two. You know that emoji guy with the gritted, grinning teeth? That’s us. We’ve got some serious thousand-yard-stare happening right now. Maybe a beer will help. What happened Everyone with more than a passing interest in watches has an opinion on the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver. Regardless of where your opinion lies, you can’t deny his impact on the industry, and the size of his personality. Over the span of his 40-odd years in the industry,…

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21.11.2017

VIDEO: The Bremont Supermarine Type S301

Bremont is a brand fuelled by avgas and the spirit of Icarus. The fledgling British brand has their roots in the sky, as it were. But that doesn’t mean that they’ve neglected other spheres of influence, including motorsports and as we can see here, diving. The Supermarine (even their dive watches have an aviation tie-in) first entered the catalogue in 2010, in the form of the Supermarine 500, a large 43mm steel piece with a distinctive ‘crown-at-two’ case design. This year the Supermarine has evolved, with several new references joining the family — the S300 and the S301. These divers…

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19.11.2017

VIDEO: 5 reasons you should have the Tudor Heritage Chrono

We’ve been engaging in a little bit of watch personality matching this week, pairing daring divers up with the Pelagos, and dashing sartorialists with the Heritage Black Bay. But what if you sit somewhere between the two? Sporty and casual, but overall, stylish. Well, by now it should come as absolutely no surprise that there is a third option. The colourful Heritage Chrono. So, if you want an eminently practical chronograph with more than a splash of colour, this could be the watch for you. And while there’s a more subdued black dialled version, our money is — and always will…

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17.11.2017

HANDS-ON: Everlasting glory – the Seiko Premier Kinetic Perpetual

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide it should come as no surprise to learn that I’m a fan of Seiko. Honestly, I think anyone with a more than passing interest in wrist-based timekeeping should be, as there are few brands that offer the sort of vertical integration that the Japanese manufacturer is capable of. If I had to narrow my appreciation for the brand down to two things, I’d have to say it’s their ongoing quest for perpetual accuracy (as evidenced in their innovations in quartz, Spring Drive and Astron technologies), as well as their unique approach to design.…

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17.11.2017

VIDEO: 6 signs the Tudor Black Bay might be the watch for you

Earlier this week we gave you some helpful watch/life advice to see if you’re the sort of person who should strap a Tudor Pelagos on the wrist. This advice would have been quite helpful if you’re the action-and-adventure type, whose idea of a good time is scrambling over rocks. But if the only rocks you’re into come in the bottom of a glass, under a healthy layer of finely distilled scotch, then the sporty diver might not be your speed. Don’t worry though, Tudor has a few more tricks up its sleeve, in this case the Black Bay, a versatile…

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16.11.2017

VIDEO: Solar flair – Seiko’s stylish Prospex SSC618P

Dive watches, thanks in part to their function-before-form ideology, can often be, well, formulaic. Seiko’s bold gold SSC618P manages to buck the trend in a few ways. Firstly, and most obviously, they’ve dressed up rugged steel with an unmissable rose gold coating, which must surely increase visibility underwater, as it’s certainly eye-catching on land. Then there’s the fact that this is a dive-ready chronograph, a slightly uncommon combination, but it’s always fun to play with screw-down pushers. And finally there’s the fact that while this Seiko isn’t packing mechanical heat in the backend, the movement is a quite interesting (and…

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14.11.2017

VIDEO: 8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos

“Which watch should I get?” It’s the first, and hardest, question to answer for any watch lover (shortly followed by “which watch should I get next?”), and our news and reviews aim to make that question easier for you to answer. Well, today we make it simpler yet, with a series of three short videos that each ask, “How do you know which Tudor is right for you?” We match three key watches from Tudor’s catalogue to three styles of wearer, albeit in a slightly tongue-in-cheek way. First up is Tudor’s mighty technical diver, the Pelagos. So, if the above…

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13.11.2017

HANDS-ON: Enamel excellence — the Seiko Presage SPB049J

Seiko drop a LOT of watches at Basel. It’s like a candy store, with everything from super-hot limited editions, to Prospex, to Presage. All there in front of you. And I’m sure I only see a fraction of what’s on offer. It can be overwhelming. But even so, a few watches stand out, and they’re not always the ones you expect. For me, one of those watches was the SPB049J, a sober time-and-date tonneau with a classical dial in enamel. Now, a tonneau, or barrel-shaped case, is relatively uncommon, and can be hard to get right. They tend to veer…

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11.11.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: What it’s like to spend 2 years with a Rolex Datejust

Editor’s Note: This review of the classic Rolex Datejust is a little different to the usual. While we generally spend a couple of days with a watch, Bruce Duguay has been wearing his Datejust for a couple of years. Bruce shares the sort of insights that only come over time. It’s a great companion piece to one of our most popular reviews, Bruce’s excellent review of the Rolex GMT-Master II BLNR. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch pictured isn’t Bruce’s actual timepiece, but rather an earlier Reference 16200 with a different dial and bracelet to Bruce’s watch. With those minor…

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11.11.2017

VIDEO: Girard-Perregaux level up with the Laureato in steel

A little while ago, we put together a list of luxury sports watches and it went – to use a technical term – bananas. There’s something about the combination of utility and exclusivity that really appeals to people. And as I look down at the Laureato on my wrist as I type this, I can honestly say, I get it. Sure, tool-like dive watches and sporty chronographs fill a place in our watch-loving hearts that crave functionality and purpose, but a watch like the Laureato offers something more. Purpose and practicality, with ample lashings of beauty. I mean, just look…

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10.11.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th November, 2017 – the Baselworld 2018 Edition

Wait, Basel in November?! What’s going on here? An understandable reaction but, still, Baselworld 2018 is in the headlines, five whole months before it opens its doors. But we’ll get to that in a second, right after we finish mixing this delicious summery cocktail (a lukewarm beer IRL), and saunter off to (yet another) glamorous party (more deadlines IRL). Let’s wind this Friday down! What happened? Well, last night I got a seemingly innocuous email from the Baselworld mailing list I’m subscribed to. I was tempted to archive it for future *cough* reading *cough*, but my curiosity was piqued, as…

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10.11.2017

HANDS-ON: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in gold — Italian industrialist chic

An important part of the process when reviewing a watch is imagining who the watch is for. Sometimes this perceived wearer can be quite general: “someone who wants a nice dive watch”. Or it can be a little more specific: “a 35-year-old frequent flyer who wants to make a subtle statement with their wrist”. In the case of these 38mm gold Laureatos my imagined wearer is a little more specific. Gianni Agnelli. If you’re not familiar with Mr Agnelli, you really should be. He was one of the most stylish men of the 20th century, a politician, industrialist and international…

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09.11.2017

NEWS: The 15 best watches of 2017, according to the GPHG

A few hours ago, watchmaking’s night of nights – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – wrapped up (though we suspect the afterparties may still be in full swing), and 15 prizes, along with a special jury prize, were awarded by the jury. The GPHG awards are often hotly debated, but do, nonetheless, provide an interesting barometer of where the watch industry is at. This year’s winners are an interesting mix of bigger brands and niche players, haute horology and a more mass approach. I also think it’s great to see a focus on commercially minded innovation, which is perhaps…

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07.11.2017

VIDEO: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary

The hardest thing when recreating a vintage watch design is knowing when to stop. Some changes — swapping the plexiglass crystal for sapphire, and upgrading the movement — are logical, and others, like an increase in size to more modern dimensions, make sense. But the real art is knowing where to stop, and what to keep. By that measure, the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary is a masterpiece in miniature — 38.5mm to be exact. This size is a perfect case in point: it’s an incremental increase that stays true to the spirit of the original in a way that a…

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07.11.2017

HANDS-ON: Two-tone with a twist — the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold

One of the most impressive collections we saw at SIHH 2017 was that of Girard-Perregaux, dominated by the sporty, ’70s-inspired Laureato collection. And while most of the Laureatos walked a pretty established product path — a top-end tourbillon, 42 and 38mm models in a few dials and case materials, as well as smaller, diamond-decked women’s models — one model stood out, both in terms of style and construction. I’m talking, of course, about the watch in the above picture, a 42mm two-tone Laureato in a bi-metallic case. And while two-tone is hardly unusual (especially this year, when it’s launched into legit ‘trend’…

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05.11.2017

MY WEEK WITH: The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph

A few weeks ago I had the distinct honour and pleasure of spending some time with Montblanc (and 50 or so other watch journalists) in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Now, prior to booking flights I had a decidedly foggy understanding of where Jackson Hole was and what it was all about (not coastal, mountains). And while that exceptionally broad understanding is factually correct, it doesn’t accurately encapsulate the awesome beauty of the place. Jackson Hole is a small town, on the outskirts of the Grand Teton National Park, surrounded by mountains. One American colleague told me that it’s the sort of…

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04.11.2017

LIST: 7 sleeper hits of 2017 

This might come as a surprise to you, but the luxury watch industry is a well-oiled, smoothly running hype machine. Every year at the two big fairs of SIHH and Baselworld, watch brands release numerous new watches. Some completely new, some only new variations. But, invariably, a small fraction of these watches dominate the conversation. And that’s no accident, as many brands invest much of their considerable marketing clout into a few heavy-hitting models that (they hope) will be total knockouts. That doesn’t mean there aren’t diamonds in the rest of the catalogue. Here are seven truly excellent watches that snuck…

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31.10.2017

IN-DEPTH: Smart and stealthy – the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 43mm in black ceramic

Story in a second: It’s one of the best modern sports chronographs of 2017. ’Nuff said. In two short years, TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 01 has gone from a single statement model to a fully fledged sub-collection, with something for everyone. Having said that, this stealthy, slightly smaller 43mm in matt black ceramic might just be the most versatile model yet. The case There are two noteworthy features of the case of the CAR2090: its size and material. First of all, the size. As I’ve said before, the 43mm Heuer 01 models are much friendlier to more wrists than the…

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31.10.2017

HANDS-ON: Smooth sailing – the Panerai Luminor 1950 PCYC 3 Days Chrono Flyback 

In recent years, Panerai has changed tack — steering a little away from the purely hard-edged, masculine image that has characterised the brand’s more recent history with models like the Luminor Due and this flyback chronograph, made to celebrate Panerai’s partnership with the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, or PCYC. For a brand that was born on the wrists of Italian frogmen, the journey topside to the decks of classic yachts, and all the glamour associated with that, is a short and natural evolution, as the calm, confident and slightly retro-inspired Luminor 1950 cased watch proves. With its rich ivory-coloured dial,…

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31.10.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Picking up speed with the Longines Railroad

Editor’s note: This Longines Railroad reissue manages to straddle a fine line — of being an authentic reproduction of a period piece that looks entirely contemporary and relevant in 2017. The fact that it’s also got a neat tie-in to the golden age of train travel is something to look back on nostalgically as you’re crammed like a sardine into a packed carriage on your morning commute. Ah, the romance of rail! We’re not alone in our love of Longines heritage offerings – the classic designs and smart prices make them consistently instant hits among watch enthusiasts, and every year we…

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29.10.2017

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology explained … in 2 minutes

Fundamentally, there’s not a whole lot of variation in watch movements. Sure, the peripheral details might vary, but basically you’re either looking at a purely mechancial movement, with a mainspring and escapement setup that’s remained pretty much unchanged for the last few hundred years, or you’re looking at a battery-powered quartz watch that’s come to dominate mass market timekeeping over the last 50 years. And then there’s a few genuinely novel outliers, technologies such as Zenith’s recently announced Defy Lab and, the one we’re looking at today — Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. Spring Drive had a long gestation. It was…

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28.10.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 Halloween-worthy skull watches

In a few days, the portal between this world and the one that comes after will be at its thinnest, so it’s probably a good time to start thinking about what wristwear is best to impress the spectres, ghouls and ghosts. And while vintage Rolex and Patek are your typical, safe bets, we’d suggest something with more … skulls. Like a skull watches. Or at least watches with a skull motif on the face. Why skulls? They symbolise death and danger, and are undeniably cool. When you put a skull on a watch it takes it to another place — a…

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28.10.2017

VIDEO: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212

It’s patently obvious, but it still bears repeating: watches are three-dimensional objects. It’s worth saying because if you’re anything like me, you spend far more time looking at watches on screens than in real life. That’s fine, it’s an unavoidable by-product of our modern world. And while some watches look exceptional in pictures, others (I would argue, all) need to be held to truly be appreciated. A photo, no matter how good, cannot catch the whirr of a movement, the satisfaction of unscrewing a crown, or the cheeky play of light as it bounces from dial to hand to crystal.…

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27.10.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 27th October, 2017 – Adam Savage and the record breaker

Typically in the Friday Wind Down we have ‘What happened?’, ‘What really mattered?’ and ‘The week in numbers’ subsections. Today I can answer all that in one word and one (long) number. Newman. $17,752,500. And no, I’m not talking about the above Newman. Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ll know by now that Aurel Bacs auctioned off Paul Newman’s Paul Newman this morning, in New York, for a record-breaking $17,752,500 USD (including buyer’s premium and taxes). It’s a watch that’s captured the hearts and minds of watch fans and novices alike — and also served as a near-perfect case…

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27.10.2017

HANDS-ON: The unique Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake 

Grand Seiko’s famous ‘Snowflake’ has been with us for quite some time now (it was first released, as the SBGA011, in 2010), and it’s quickly earned a reputation as an exemplary everyday watch that manages to combine functionality and beauty in equal measure. Smartly, Seiko knew enough to leave one of the cores of the Grand Seiko collection well alone … until this year. The ‘new’ Snowflake is the SBGA211, and, thankfully, it’s virtually identical to the original — except for the dial. At the start of this year it was announced that Grand Seiko would be fully independent from…

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25.10.2017

HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 – a new movement in the house

Raymond Weil, one of the few independent, family-owned operations in the Swiss watch industry, marked their 40th birthday this year. And while I’m sure there was cake, and perhaps even champagne, the best part of the celebrations has to be the Calibre RW1212. This automatic movement, with distinctive open-heart escapement, is unique to Raymond Weil, designed in-house and made by Sellita. RW1212 marks the first time Raymond Weil have dipped their toes into the deep (and often murky) waters of in-house movements, and it’s a testament to the brand that they’ve been transparent about the movement’s design, development and construction,…

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24.10.2017

VIDEO: Play of light – Raymond Weil’s Freelancer Chronograph

There’s a reason chronographs are one of the most perennially popular watch complications – they add a lot to a watch. Functionality, interesting design elements, and a sense of derring-do, thanks to the chronograph’s close association with the exciting and glamorous worlds of motorsports, aviation and general athletic endeavour. Most importantly though, they add a real sense of tactility, allowing you to interact with – and measure – the passing of time in a meaningful way. And I’ve got to say, I could get used to wearing and using this Raymond Weil Freelancer. The dial and case is a quiet…

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23.10.2017

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph in red gold with brown dial

Last week, I was in the mountain town of Jackson, Wyoming with Montblanc. And while I’ll have to wait until SIHH 2018 to share most of the watches I’ve seen with you (totally worth it, by the way), I did spot one smooth new variation of this year’s sporty TimeWalker Chronograph that I can tell you about. This new version amps up the prestige with a solid red gold case with a satin treatment, paired with a deep, dark chocolate brown sunburst dial and matching ceramic bezel. On the dial it’s lovely, but it really sings thanks to the contrasting gold…

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23.10.2017

VIDEO: Red alert – could you wear Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Red Sapphire?

There’s something about the colour red. In nature it symbolises danger, in human culture it’s got a more complex set of meanings: typically passion, strength, desire – emotion writ large. Which is why this glistening red sapphire confection is the logical extension of Hublot’s journey into sapphire. Not only does the vivid case amplify all the natural attributes of the Big Bang case – especially given the contrasting black detailing, but it exaggerates everything that Hublot stands for, not just in terms of design, but also in brand ethos. It’s an audaciously out-there watch, not to many people’s tastes, but it…

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22.10.2017

VIDEO: The purity of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake

One of Grand Seiko’s most in-demand and instantly identifiable watches is the Snowflake, AKA the SBGA211. For many, this pure, and deceptively simple, watch epitomises the high-end Japanese maker, and it certainly exhibits all the Grand Seiko hallmarks: exceptional casework, precise finishing techniques, and those glimmering hands and hour markers. And then, of course, there’s the dial — textured like a field of fresh snow, that can, at a distance, be passed off as a simple white. Look closer though and you’ll find yourself sucked into the richness and serenity of its lustrous beauty. And then there’s the impossibly smooth…

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18.10.2017

HOW TO: Wear two-tone (and not look like Gordon Gekko)

Now, if you’ve watched my review of the Tudor S&G you’ll know that I’m #team2tone all the way, but the thing is, I don’t *really* know how to wear it. I mean, I think I’d be OK in more formal settings — just pair it with a suit and away you go, but in every other part of my life — not so sure. I’ve got two-tone anxiety, and I’m sure I’m not the only one. Because, much as we’re all aware that the mix of precious and plain metals is, once again, en vogue, our awareness of it, and…

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16.10.2017

VIDEO: All that glitters – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay S&G

Around this time of the year I’m prone to a bit of the old ‘best watch’ game – running through my favourite releases in a particular brand or category. And typically it’s a pretty clear-cut decision for me. Not so with Tudor’s 2017 collection. I’ve found myself going back and forth over two watches pretty much since I first saw them: the Black Bay Steel and the Black Bay S&G. In a way though my indecision makes perfect sense, as these two models are perhaps the two most extreme expressions of the Black Bay line. The Steel is the epitome…

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16.10.2017

HANDS-ON: Blue Monday – the Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Sapphire 

Hublot’s sapphire journey began with their ultra high-end MP-05 LaFerrari, a horological engine in the truest sense of the word, with 50 days of power reserve thanks to 11 coupled barrels. It made perfect sense for Hublot to show this beast of a movement off to its fullest capacity with a full sapphire case. But it seems LaFerrari only whet Hublot’s appetite for transparency, making a splash last year with the Big Bang Unico Sapphire, a limited edition of 500 pieces that eclipsed any previous sapphire production runs. It’s easy to see why Hublot is drawn to sapphire as a…

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13.10.2017

VIDEO: The watches of Bulgari’s record-breaking Octo Finissimo collection explained

It’s probably a cliché to say that the Italian jewellery house of Bulgari is going through a watchmaking renaissance, but it’s hard to argue with the sense of renewed vigour and energy that’s flowing through their unashamedly modern designs. And at the core of this rebirth is one design – The Octo. What began life as one of Gérald Genta’s characteristic octagonals has evolved into something more stripped-back, focused, and much, much thinner. The man who has driven this evolution is Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Director of Bulgari’s Watches Design Center, a designer who’s swapped fast cars for something much, much…

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11.10.2017

VIDEO: Just how thin is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic?

It’s not too hard to appreciate how thin 5.15mm is in abstract terms – it’s a shade thicker than two 20 cent pieces, FYI – and pictures of the Octo Finissimo Automatic get you a little further along the path to understanding. But short of actually having the watch in your hand or on your wrist, the best way of contextualising just how incredibly slim this watch is is through the medium of video. Luckily, we’ve put this short video review together so you can get a sense of how it wears in glorious HD. The only thing we can’t…

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10.10.2017

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s complex marvel – the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon

Here at Time+Tide we tend to focus on the simpler end of Cartier’s offerings, classic beauties like the Tank or the Drive Extra Flat. But there’s another side to the famous jewellery maison’s watch offerings that’s, well, exceptionally complex. The Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon is one such watch. If you didn’t glean that fact from the impressively wordy model name, take one look at this skeletonised, 45mm monster and you’ll immediately realise that we’re not talking about your run-of-the-mill Tank. No, this watch, or – more accurately – the Calibre 9407MC inside, is one of the…

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09.10.2017

IN-DEPTH: The slender sexiness of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

The story in a second: Forget bling: thin is in, and Bulgari are king. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is the latest in Bulgari’s trio of record-breaking ultra-thin watches, and perhaps the greatest. We have a look at the watch’s barely-there beauty, and find out why it’s such a standout. The case Any discussion of the Octo Finissimo Automatic has to start with some specs. And for the case, the key figure is 5.15mm. That’s slight, no matter how you slice it, but it manages to avoid feeling frail on the wrist. The level of finishing is very high, and you…

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08.10.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer

The story in a second: This year the Aqua Terra received a major upgrade, and now we’re seeing Omega’s staple in a whole new light. Since it first surfaced in 2003, Omega’s Aqua Terra has been a versatile everyman, stylish and sartorial, but tough enough for the real world. This year the collection levelled-up to Master Chronometer status and we thought we’d take this sparkly 41mm rubberclad model for a spin. The case The case of the Aqua Terra hasn’t changed too obviously, it’s still the same classic shape, with sporty, swooping, twisted lugs and polished surfaces aplenty. It’s a…

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07.10.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: A-list approved – Six watches with serious star power

Editor’s note: A little while back now, Andy Green, inveterate watch spotter, put together a list of some of Hollywood’s finest wristwear. You and I may lack the looks or the acting chops to pull off quite the same bravura style performance, but at least our wrists can look the part. Right? Finding the right watch to match your wardrobe can be surprisingly tricky – all too often your wrist overpowers (or worse – underwhelms) the rest of your outfit. But when it’s done well the watch not only looks good with your outfit, but makes it. Here are six of…

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06.10.2017

VIDEO: Shape and sculpture – the Rado Ceramica

When Cameron told us about the Rado Ceramica a little while ago, we knew we wanted to get a close look at this squared-off ceramic number. And when we did spend some time with it on our wrists and in front of our lenses, something became increasingly apparent. This is as much a sculpture as it is a watch – I noticed I was spending more time looking at the flex of the bracelet and the gentle curve at the end of the case than looking at the time. And while some might see this as an issue from a…

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05.10.2017

VIDEO: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra – is it the only watch you need? 

One of the secrets of the Omega Aqua Terra’s success is its versatile charm. In its dark-dialled and gold incarnations it’s super dressed-up, but put it on a leather or rubber strap and it becomes a much more casual proposition. This is a watch that could pull tuxedo duty or go with board shorts (and the 150 metres of water resistance means it’s safe to take swimming) with equal ease. But no matter how you wear it, you won’t find it boring. The flash of the polished hands and applied indices ensure that, as does the shimmering, patterned dial. And…

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04.10.2017

VIDEO: Rado’s Coupole Classic is an everyday hero

One of the great paradoxes of the Swiss watch industry is that, broadly speaking, it is locked into a cycle that demands shiny new watch releases (often referred to as novelties) on a yearly basis. Pretty much without exception, these are all watches that are often intended to last a generation or three. What this means is that many watch brands continually offer new case materials, dial colours or combinations of complications to tempt us to change our wristwear. It’s a strong-willed watch lover indeed who can resist this siren call, but really, the latest is not always the greatest. Sometimes…

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03.10.2017

VIDEO: Get ready for summer with the new Omega Aqua Terra on rubber

I didn’t appreciate just how good the new Master Chronometer Omega Aqua Terras were until I spent some proper time with them. And now that I have, I’m kicking myself for not talking more about them at and after Basel. What’s not to like? The design manages to be current and sporty without losing sight of its classic roots, there’s oodles of cool tech under the hood and it looks stellar on the wrist, thanks to all those facets, edges and polished surfaces. But what really won me over was – wait for it – the rubber strap. Yep, Omega…

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02.10.2017

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold

Believe it or not, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the original sports watches. The oft-quoted origin story about this iconic rectangle is that it was the dusty polo fields of colonial India that gave birth to the reversible watch, which could be easily flipped to protect the delicate dial during the rough and tumble of the chukka. That was way back in 1931, and in the subsequent decades the perceptions of the Reverso have, much like its ingenious case, done a complete about-face. In 2017 the Reverso stands out as one of the default black-tie watches. Nowhere is that…

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02.10.2017

VIDEO: Old meets new in the Rado HyperChrome 1616 

When we think Rado, we tend not to think chunky, ’70s-inspired dive watch. We’re much more likely to lean towards chic ceramic minimalism, or perhaps this year’s surprise hit, the Captain Cook. Which is why the HyperChrome 1616 is such a standout, though the impressive 46mm case helps too. Of course, Rado are a brand with a high-tech rep to protect, so don’t expect them to use anything as simple as steel for the case material. Instead they’ve crafted two takes on the theme – one in black ceramic, the other in hardened titanium. The ceramic version is the more modern…

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30.09.2017

LIST: 9 vintage reissues we want to see in 2018

Today’s list is, without doubt, one of the most meta we’ve done in a while. We’re looking forward… to the past. There’s no escaping that vintage reissues are a part of the watch collection landscape, now being a ‘key pillar’ for many brands, and guessing what they’re going to pull out of the archives is always a fun game. So Andy and I polished off the crystal ball and had a stab at what we’re going to see at SIHH and Baselworld 2018. Omega Flightmaster Andy: The Omega Flightmaster is one of those watches that was made for such a…

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29.09.2017

HANDS-ON: Janus-faced – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Moon

It’s fair to say that, for most people, Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2017 has been synonymous with the Master Control series we’ve spoken about at length. On the one hand, these watches deserve their time in the sun; on the other hand, you might have missed the truly stylish Reversos JLC released this year. For me, the star of the swivelling show is this two-faced beauty, the Reverso Tribute Moon in steel. Last year JLC launched a Reverso subcollection – the Tribute Line – that honours the spirit of historic Reverso models, a mission the Tribute Moon well and truly delivers on, with equally…

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28.09.2017

VIDEO: Wrist appeal – the Tudor Black Bay 41

Tudor’s Black Bay has evolved from a straight-up tool-like diver to an all-encompassing collection that has your wrist covered from dress to diver and any point in between. The Black Bay 41 is the dressier face of the line. Simple steel but not lacking in polish (both on the case and in the style sense), the BB 41 is a larger incarnation of last year’s Black Bay 36. This watch doesn’t stray too far from the winning formula, offering everyday functionality and a strong graphic design. All in a size that’s much more palatable for many more men. Tudor Heritage…

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27.09.2017

VIDEO: Unleash the beast – Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m diver

Grand Seiko is known for many things: mirror-like finishes, incredibly crisp casework and a design style that veers from conservative to downright quirky. But this is not a brand that springs to mind when you think of professional-grade dive watches. Until now. At Basel this year Grand Seiko released this mighty beast that we (in the best tradition of Seiko-related nicknames) have dubbed ‘The Kraken’. Now to be honest, unless you’ve got arms like Dwayne Johnson, I’m willing to bet you don’t have the wrist presence to rock this 46.9mm-wide by 16.9mm-thick behemoth (which is surprisingly light, thanks to the…

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25.09.2017

HANDS-ON: Aussie! Aussie! Aussie! Franck Muller goes green and gold with limited-edition Vanguard for Australia

One of my main gripes with the watch industry in general is that it’s an overwhelmingly Serious Business. Tradition. Precision. Luxury. Attributes that are easily capable of erasing the merest hint of fun. Thankfully, there are a few brands out there capable of injecting some playfulness into their watches. Franck Muller, with their left-of-centre designs and obsession with colour, are definitely one of those brands, as you can see from this Aussie-as limited edition Using the sporty tonneau-cased 44mm Vanguard as a base, Franck Muller’s very limited edition, offered in titanium (18 pieces) or rose gold (eight pieces), doesn’t just display a…

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23.09.2017

LIST: 5 sports luxury watches that live up to the name

Sports luxury is one of those ephemeral subgenres in watchland that hides a multitude of sins. It’s easy for a watch maker to label any oversized solid-gold diver as sports luxe, but the reality is that most of these watches will never see any actual sports time. Frankly, that’s not good enough. So we found a select handful of timepieces that you could wear with ease on the court or in the boardroom. Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Oysterflex   It’s an obvious choice, but this Everose beauty’s inclusion isn’t solely due to the action-ready and oh-so-comfy Oysterflex. The slim case profile…

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22.09.2017

VIDEO: We had a barman make the cocktails that inspired Seiko’s Cocktail Time watches, and it went quite well

We’ve been hitting the bottle this week, but not for the usual reasons. No, this week we’re celebrating that riot of colour and fun that is the Presage Cocktail Time. Now, you might be asking, what is Cocktail Time? Isn’t it about five o’clock? Well, yes and no. Cocktail Time is the on-point name of the latest dressy addition to Seiko’s Presage Line. You see, Seiko has a rich tradition of fan-driven monikers, with everything from ‘monsters’ to ‘samurais’. These colourful nicknames make sense really. ‘Turtle’ certainly rolls of the tongue a lot easier than SRP777, for example. But the Cocktail…

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20.09.2017

HANDS-ON: Not your typical sports chrono – the IWC Da Vinci Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation”

When IWC made the revamped Da Vinci collection their main focus at SIHH 2017, it’s fair to say that there was a little bit of confusion – if not downright consternation – among the watch-loving faithful. Coming off two straight years of strong, masculine product – the Portugieser and the Pilot’s – the dressy Da Vinci was a definite change of pace with it’s feminine demeanour and fancy articulated lugs. If you’re on the fence about the Da Vinci collection as a whole, have a look at this limited-edition Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport For Good Foundation”. Even though the words…

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19.09.2017

VIDEO: Dial it up to 11 with the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (refs SRPB41, SRPB43 & SRPB46)

If you’re ‘into’ watches, it’s easy to fall into a  perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko’s colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with an RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it’s fun, and that’s mostly down to the dials. Take that away and you have a well-priced 40mm steel dress watch. Nice, but unremarkable. The Cocktail Time takes classic dressy tropes and turns the…

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17.09.2017

VIDEO:  Triple threat – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control collection

It’s been a tough year for the luxury watch industry, and though things seem to be picking up now, the mood at SIHH in January could be described as reserved at best. One of the shining lights in a muted firmament was Jaeger-LeCoultre. Specifically, their newest Master Control release was a trilogy of watches celebrating the line’s 25th anniversary. Offered in date, chronograph and dual time configurations, these three watches shared JLC’s highly regarded movements, simple steel cases and vintage-inspired sector dials that transformed them from conservative classics into conversation starters. However, these watches didn’t just impress because of their style…

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16.09.2017

LIST: 8 wunderbar German watches…that doesn’t include Nomos or A. Lange & Söhne

While it’s unarguable that Switzerland has a hegemony on the luxury watch industry, their German neighbours have an equally long and proven track record when it comes to fine watchmaking. We’re willing to bet you’re familiar with Glashütte locals Nomos and A.Lange & Söhne, but there’s a lot more to Deutsche Uhren, such as these wunderbar watches… Archimede Pilot 42 Bronze While the German watchmaking town of Glashütte will pop up more than once on this list, we’re going to kick off with the Pforzheim-based firm of Archimede. Known for their high-quality cases and Pilot’s-style watches, all of which is…

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15.09.2017

VIDEO:  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Chronograph – one of 2017’s best

I’m on the record as saying “I’m not a chronograph guy”, and, by and large, that’s true. However, there are exceptions, and this year’s Master Chronograph from Jaeger-LeCoultre is definitely one of them. Like the rest of the collection, it’s a smart, simple design that’s clearly vintage in inspiration but doesn’t suffer from retro overload. In addition to the good looks, JLC has deilvered the perfectly sized package at 40mm, and the movement is, as you would expect from the brand, top notch. In fact, the only negative point for me is that such a great movement is hidden away…

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15.09.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 15th September, 2017 

Another week, another wind down. Today Melbourne’s mercurial weather is set for a downpour, so Alison and I would much rather be up in Sydney with Andrew at the TAG Heuer Globetrotter event, but we’re not. So we’re making the most of it. And in this case, making the most means cranking the tunes, the heater and pouring a healthy measure of whisky. Cheers! What happened? Apple released their Series 3 smartwatch, finally untetherering it from the iPhone, something I’m – just quietly  – a little excited about. Mark Wahlberg, everyone’s favourite Bostonian (sorry Ben Affleck), was spotted wearing an…

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14.09.2017

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Garde Cotes

For most brands a round 41mm steel chronograph would be unremarkable, but this Bell & Ross stands out precisely because of these features – it’s not an oversize square watch crafted from ceramic or some other highly technical material, which is what we’ve come to expect from Bell & Ross. Even though the BR V2-94 Garde Cotes is a far more ‘conventional’ design, don’t fall into the trap of assuming that it doesn’t stand out. There’s a lot here to please the eye – a well-balanced twin-register dial, glossy black bezel and a soft-grey and washed-out orange colour scheme to…

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13.09.2017

EVENT: Cocktail Time! Seiko opens Melbourne boutique (and 4 watches you can buy there right now)

It’s a wonder I remember last night with any clarity, given the strength of the cocktails served in honour of – and matched to – the latest member of Seiko’s burgeoning Presage collection: the Cocktail Time. Thankfully, the ability to accurately recall technical details with a reasonable degree of accuracy after three Manhattans is an essential skill in watch journalism, which means that I can not only remember that the drinks in question included the Skydiving (for the SRPB43), Manhattan (a perfect match with the rich brown dial of the SRPB46) and the aggressively hued Blue Moon (an on-point pairing with…

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13.09.2017

OPINION: The Apple Watch Series 3 finally delivers on the promise of a fully featured smartwatch

Last night, as Australia slept, Apple unveiled their latest and (they hope) greatest smartphones, a new Apple TV and the Apple Watch Series 3. At the start of the year I had a prolonged tryst with the Series 2 Edition, and the functionality and utility were pretty compelling. The most surprising takeaway for me was how the Apple Watch, rather than adding another screen to my life, went a long way to freeing me from my at times intense love-hate relationship with screens. In particular, I noticed that my iPhone stayed in my pocket more and was no longer a…

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11.09.2017

HANDS-ON: Simply masterful — the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic

Twenty-five years ago Jaeger-LeCoultre released the Master Control collection, a line of watches dedicated to the sort of traditional high-quality watchmaking for which the Le Sentier-based house is so well known. The pure style of the Master Control sits well with the credibility afforded by JLC’s ‘1000 Hours Control’ testing program, in which the subject watch undergoes six weeks of extensive testing, covering off everything from accuracy to impact. And while these days this sort of rigorous testing procedure is increasingly par for the course, in 1992 JLC was well ahead of the pack. The potent combination of conservative good looks,…

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09.09.2017

LIST: Are our 11 Basel 2017 favourites still our favourites?

In the final days of Baselworld 2017, we put together a (very sleep-deprived) video of our top picks of the fair. But as we all know, feelings change. Are the watches that hit us right in the hearts in thick of the fair still the ones we long for months later? Find out below… Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Andrew says: Yes, yes, yes, yessssssss. The Cocktail Time puts fun, colour and an extraordinary array of finishes and considered touches on your wrist for the kind of money ($A1100) that for many falls into the ‘scratch the itch’ category. The question that’s…

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08.09.2017

VIDEO: The Cartier Tank Américaine, now in steel

As Sandra so helpfully informed us yesterday, Cartier introduced the Tank Américaine in 1989. A bulked-up version of the Cintrée, with broad, muscly brancards, this Tank managed to capture not just the spirit of the times but also the bold, entrepreneurial spirit of the continent for which is was named. I can’t help but think that if Wall Street had been made a few years later, Michael Douglas would have been wearing an Américaine instead of a Santos. This year, as part of its Tank centenary celebrations, Cartier has released three new Tank Américaine models, in small, medium and large. And while…

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06.09.2017

RECOMMENDED READING: Omega’s CEO on China and the incredible ‘Building O’

Earlier this week The New York Times published an interview with Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann, in which he gives an interesting overview as to how the Swatch Group’s crown jewel is faring, and what the plans are for the future. Aeschlimann points to China as a star performing market at the moment, saying that half of the brand’s business is coming from Asia, where the Constellation is the model of choice. He also speaks about the new factory, the impressive ‘Building O’: “At the center of Building O is a giant glass-enclosed atrium three floors deep, an inventory area called…

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05.09.2017

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s centenary and the Tank Louis Cartier 

It’s hard to overstate the importance of Cartier’s Tank. Not just in the rarefied world of watch design, but in the much broader fields of fashion and design. In a crowded scene full of pretenders it stands out, like an enduring style icon in a room full of so-called influencers. This year the Tank celebrates its centenary, and Cartier has released a brace of new Tanks to mark the occasion, in the Française, Américaine,  Cintrée and Louis Cartier collections. We’re going to look at the new steel Américaine shortly, but today we’re spending time with the most classical iteration, the…

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04.09.2017

HANDS-ON REVIEW: Eyes on the prize – the Longines Avigation BigEye 

By now it should come as no surprise that Longines is a master when it comes to heritage reissues. The company has a proven track record almost as long and distinguished as its actual archives. From the Legend Diver through to the COSD and the Heritage 1945, the Saint-Imier brand rarely puts a foot wrong when it comes to  vintage themed pieces. Longines’ latest is the Avigation BigEye, a handsome 41mm brushed-steel chronograph that draws on the marque’s strong aviation links. The design is based on a historical pilot’s chronograph, similar in style to the Type XX watches made by a range of brands,…

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01.09.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 1st September, 2017 – the ‘Gaga-gate’ edition

Today is less of a wind down and more of a recovery. Last night we hosted a small gathering of some of our favourite watch lovers. Drinks were had, canapés were consumed, watches were ogled, fondled and ‘grammed, and new friends were found. Thanks to everyone who came! But that was last night. Today we’re trying to get the office back into some semblance of order – emptying bins, wiping down surfaces and rearranging our loupe collection. You know, the usual. Gaga-gate The big news this week comes from Tudor, which announced Lady Gaga as its first female ambassador. Gaga joins Beckham as…

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01.09.2017

HANDS-ON: Beautiful blue – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche

There’s a running joke in the Time+Tide office about my proclivity for “beautiful blue” dials –I once managed to say it a few too many times in a short video review and, well, it sort of stuck. But in the case of this new version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s classic Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche the accolade beautiful blue is well and truly deserved. JLC specialise in ultra-thin watches, and this design of the Réserve de Marche has been a part of the collection since 2012. It is an exceptional, traditionally styled 39mm steel watch with a complicated-but-balanced dial layout…

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30.08.2017

LIST: 6 watch appropriate gifts you can still get in time for Father’s Day in Australia

Father’s Day. It’s one of those quasi-holidays that has a nasty habit of sneaking up on you. And worse, one that has unclear expectations in the gifting department. We’re pretty sure socks and jocks sit on the inadequate side of the ledger, but what constitutes a cracking pressie for dad is a trickier nut to crack. Wine is always a low-effort, high-yield option, scalable to any budget. But it lacks creativity. Now, if your old man is partial to the odd watch (perhaps he’s even subtly – or maybe not so subtly – shared this article) we would humbly suggest that…

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30.08.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The utter refinement of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moonphase

Editor’s note: We exist in a permanent fever-dream of watches. Every day we’re presented with a fresh press release promising hitherto unseen wonder and innovation, not to mention beauty beyond compare. Unsurprisingly, 99 per cent of these watches fail to live up to this promise. A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Moonphase is one of the exceptions. It remains hard to argue with the simple, confident beauty this fine German timepiece exudes. Let’s begin by stating the patently obvious: A. Lange & Söhne has had a very good year. At the top end, collectors have raved about the Grand Lange One Moonphase…

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28.08.2017

NEWS: Will the world go Gaga for Tudor’s new global ambassador?

Tudor has just announced Lady Gaga as a brand ambassador and global face of the #Borntodare campaign. This announcement comes just months after the brand signed veteran sports star and style icon David Beckham. In the advertising collateral supplied Gaga wears the (now classic) Heritage Black Bay with red bezel on a red fabric strap. Lady Gaga is an interesting choice for Tudor. Even though her days of meat dress donning, scandal courting behaviour is (for now, anyway) in her past, the outspoken singer is still a much edgier proposition than your typical luxury brand ambassador, which at least lives up…

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27.08.2017

INSIGHT: 2 takes on the Rolex Sky-Dweller from people who bought it

Reviewing watches like the Sky-Dweller is all well and good, but we’re (usually) quite detached about it. So we decided to find the opinions of people who had handed over their own hard-earned for the Sky-Dweller and asked them for their far less impartial take. Ashley’s perspective First we spoke to Ashley, a Sydney-based collector who’s eagerly awaiting the delivery of his Sky-Dweller. Ashley was pretty sure he was going to get it as soon as he saw the news from Basel, but handling it in person at a retailer’s event sealed the deal. Which one did you get? I went…

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26.08.2017

LIST: 5 of the best heritage reissues… ever

Heritage reissues are hot and don’t seem to be cooling off any time soon. But as more and more brands jump on the retro train, the ratio of filler to thriller is becoming increasingly unbalanced. So we’ve put together some of the all-time greats – five cracking examples of retro done right. Vacheron Constantin Historique Cornes de Vache 1955 It might have cow horns in the name, but there’s nothing ungainly or bovine about this slender, elegant chronograph from Vacheron Constantin. But beware: beauty doesn’t come cheap, especially when it’s in a platinum case. RRP $104,000 Omega Speedmaster 60th Anniversary Limited…

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25.08.2017

VIDEO: 4 things you need to know about the new Rolex Sky-Dweller

Unless you’ve been living under a rock you probably know that the new, updated Sky-Dweller from Rolex is one of *the* watches of 2017. And if you’ve read our in-depth review – you should, if only for the pictures – chances are good that you know why. However, we understand that not all of you have the time for a thousand words of pros and cons (though they’re mostly pros), so being the helpful people we are, we’ve put together this short, snappy video that gives you the executive summary. We run through everything you need to know about the changes to…

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24.08.2017

HANDS-ON: Seiko shakes it up with the complicated Presage Cocktail Time power reserve (ref. SSA346)

Last year, Seiko’s mainstream, mid-tier mechanical line, Presage, went global, with a collection of dressy options (including a particularly outstanding chronograph). This year Seiko expanded Presage in a big way, turning one of the most popular Japanese domestic models (JDM), the SARB065 – AKA the Cocktail Time – into a fully fledged collection. The Presage Cocktail Time consists of a range of three-handed options and a few more complicated offerings, all starring dials that pack a punch as potent as the drinks for which they’re named. We’re going to explore the broader family in a bit more depth soon, but we…

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21.08.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Sky-Dweller comes down to earth

The story in a second It’s one of the hottest watches of 2017, and here’s why… For years, the Sky-Dweller has been one of the most interesting and least understood modern Rolexes. It’s one of the most complicated watches in their lineup, as a luxury traveller’s watch, and is the patrician elder brother of the tool-like GMT-Master II. This niche proposition, along with its solid gold offering, always made it something of an outsider Rolex. Until now. The case In some ways the case of the Sky-Dweller remains identical to the version released in 2012, but viewed a different way,…

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19.08.2017

LIST: Sick of waiting for that Patek? Here are 5 watches you could get instead

You don’t need to sell us on Patek’s 5711/1A. It’s the Nautilus. In fact, you might go so far as to say it’s the steel sports watch. The case, the dial – that bracelet. Heck, even the date. It all works. The only bad thing about it? Unless you’re seriously connected, you can’t just walk into your local AD, drop the $32,300 AUD and walk out with it on your wrist. You need to wait. And, I think we can all agree that waiting sucks. So don’t. Here are five excellent options to scratch that itch a whole lot quicker. Glashütte…

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18.08.2017

HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Jumping Hours Tourbillon

Earlier this week we showed you Franck Muller’s Skeleton Tourbillon, a sculptural wonder that let the movement shine. Today we’ve got a different take on the tourbillon: the Jumping Hours Tourbillon, which is just as stunning, even if it’s a little less revealing to the casual observer. The first thing you might notice about this watch (OK, the second, after you’ve finished gazing in wonder at the hand-engraved 60-second tourbillon) is that it appears to be missing a hand. The sinewy blued steel minutes are there, but what about the hour? And for that matter, where are the hour markers?…

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16.08.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer has an impressive party trick in the bezel

The story in a second It’s all in the bezel. One of the more interesting watches to come across my desk in recent months is this Oris ProPilot Worldtimer. Now, at first glance you might wonder why, as it looks every inch a regular ProPilot, albeit one with a second time zone on display. But this sturdy pilot’s watch has a trick up its proverbial sleeve – an innovative and awesomely user-friendly time zone adjustment method. Add this novel feature to Oris’ already proven robust build quality and versatile style and the ProPilot Worldtimer is an automatic finalist in the…

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15.08.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Turtle power! We review Seiko’s Prospex SRP77X divers

Editor’s Note: Seiko’s re-released ‘Turtle’ is rapidly becoming an essential in any self-respecting watch collector’s roll. And given the winning combination of heritage and quality at a supremely wallet-friendly price, we can see why. Seiko dive watches have a massive – at times fanatical – following. It’s these guys and gals who are responsible for giving the brand’s cryptically coded watches their colourful nicknames – the Tuna, Monster, Sumo and, in this case, the Turtle. Officially, the Turtles we’re looking at here are known as SRP775 (black gilt dial on bracelet), SRP773 (blue dial on bracelet) and SRP777 (black dial on silicone). From now…

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14.08.2017

HANDS-ON: Bold and beautiful – Franck Muller’s Cintrée Curvex Skeleton Tourbillon 

I don’t want to get all KPI on you, but image selection is something that I spend a lot of my time working on. Of the dozens of shots of any given watch that one of our photographers take, only a handful make the final cut. That’s not because the shots are out of focus or poorly lit, but because we strive to hit the right balance between written and visual information, and both elements are complementary and essential. Typically on this sort of review, I’ll end up running with four or five images. Today I’ve we’re at 12, more than…

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13.08.2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @AHWStudio

Angus is well known to Sydneysiders as part of a family-run business, AHW Studio, nestled in The Rocks, Sydney. AHW Studio collects, researches and upcycles obsolete and forgotten timepieces into wearable art — think cufflinks or a signet-ring with a difference. So if you’re looking to buy a gift for ‘the watch lover who has everything’, this is the account for you. NAME: Angus Zhao OCCUPATION: Horological jewellery maker HANDLE: @AHWStudio FOLLOWERS: 5.5k LOCATION: The Rocks, Sydney, Australia How do you unwind? In a way, I don’t necessarily ‘unwind’ (though that’s a good pun), because work is play and play is everything…

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12.08.2017

LIST: 5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off

Every generation or so has its own particular flavour of apocalyptic angst. From mutually assured destruction to pandemic plagues or even rogue asteroids. Living in 2017 we seem to be blessed with a profusion of options for end times, some of which are looking increasingly (and worryingly) plausible. Even if climate change doesn’t give us some entirely new coastal real estate options, Kim and Donald seem pretty intent on their game of nuclear brinksmanship. And that can only end well. So rather than focus on the bleak reality, we thought we’d engage in some lighthearted list-making while we stock up…

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11.08.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 the only watch you’ll ever need?

Editor’s Note: If you’re looking for your ‘one good watch’ something that goes with everything and can go with you everywhere, the fresh Rolex OP 39 is an incredibly good option. Colourful and classic, and without anything superfluous – like a date.  The Story in a second: This could well be the only watch you’ll ever need. There’s a concept in the world of watch enthusiasts that’s referred to as ‘only one watch’. For the majority of the population, this concept is better known as ‘normality’. But if you’re the sort of person who has a watch for work, one for the…

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11.08.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur

Story in a second The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur shows a new, focused and driven face of Ulysse Nardin. I’m going to start this review talking not about mechanical watches, but naval warfare. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, naval dominance was all about massive floating fortresses, with thick plate armour and a massed battery of cannons. These ships, which culminated in the dreadnought class of battleships, were the undisputed masters of the seas. To counter these ungainly behemoths, the Torpilleur, or torpedo boat, was developed. Streamlined, fast and modern, the Torpilleurs were armed with the latest technology —…

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09.08.2017

HANDS-ON: The complete package – Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon

When it was originally conceived, the tourbillon was a technical solution to a specific problem — the impact of gravity on the accuracy of a pocket watch’s movement. These days the whirling cage of finely finished metal represents something else. For brands, it’s a bravura statement of prowess. For watch lovers, it’s typically the crowning piece in a collection, the finest point in fine watchmaking. If we’re honest, the appeal of the tourbillon is only partially due to an appreciation of the watchmaker’s art. There’s also an element of conspicuous consumption to wearing a tourbillon. Dress it up however you…

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08.08.2017

LIST: 9 innovations from the watchmaking wasteland of the ‘90s that matter today

Sitting between the now nostalgia-laden ‘80s and the innovation explosion of the 2000s, the 1990s is seen as something of a watchmaking wasteland; a bold (and brash) period that’s currently out of fashion, but not far enough away to be viewed through the rose tinted glasses of history. But were the ‘90s really a write-off? Here are nine groundbreaking ‘90s watches that redeem watchmaking’s forgotten decade. 1991 – Audemars Piguet Star Wheel What is it? Watchmakers are, by and large, bound by tradition and stick to tried and true methods, like telling the time with hands. In 1991 Audemars Piguet…

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07.08.2017

VIDEO: Full speed ahead with Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer Torpilleur

For years, Ulysse Nardin has been something of an insider’s brand with a solid heritage and catalogue boasting some legitimately impressive horology (we’re looking at you, Freak). Their strongest line has, in my opinion, always been the historically inspired Marine collection, based on the brand’s historic marine chronometers which date back to the middle of the 19th century. These days the Marine watches are less about navigation and more about a mix of everyday classicism with a sporty edge. Dressy Roman numerals paired with integrated lugs and rubber straps. The recently released Marine Torpilleur evolves this concept further and is…

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07.08.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Feel the power of…Tudor’s Black Bay Dark

Editor’s note: For a watch that sits in Tudor’s Heritage collection, the BB Dark is awfully modern thanks to its unrelieved black-on-black colour scheme. It offers a “tacticool” take on the perennial favourite and makes the question, “how many Black Bays is too many?”  that much harder to answer. The story in a second: It’s time you met the dark horse of the Black Bay family After four years of tantalising, tactical releases culminating in the near perfect surprise announcement of the Black Bay Black last year, we weren’t expecting a new Black Bay in 2016. Well, we were wrong. Tudor gave…

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05.08.2017

LIST: The 4 best two-tone watches of 2017

Caveat. Two-tone never truly went away. There’s always been a hardcore for whom the power dressing dream of ‘80s excess never died. And now it looks like they were right all along, as the beguiling combo of precious and plain metals is back with vengeance in 2017. Is it because these watches offer a stronger value proposition in a penny-pinching climate, or maybe because their target market is too young to remember when they were cool the first time around? We’re not sure, and frankly, we don’t really care. We just know they look cool. Tudor Black Bay S&G While…

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04.08.2017

LIST: Got the car? Get the watch – 3 Hublots for 3 Ferraris

In our experience, if you’re into intricately constructed, high-performance machines, it doesn’t really matter if they’re intended for the road or your wrist. But, as our favourite young Old El Paso advocate asks, “Why don’t we have both?” So with that in mind, we’ve found three Hublots that are the perfect pairing for three of Ferrari’s finest. The LaFerrari Aperta At the very top of Maranello’s pecking order is the mighty LaFerrari, limited to 150 pieces. It’s as much a work of art as it is an engineering marvel, so it’s only fitting to pair it with the equally hardcore…

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04.08.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 4th August, 2017 – the fashion edition

Bear with me this week as I go a little off script. This week’s Wind Down is less about watches and more about all the stuff around them. Fashion. Technology. Business. Fine watchmaking manages to neatly intersect all these areas, informing and being informed by them. On a day-to-day level though, it’s easy to miss the linkages, so this week I’m going to ask a few of the big questions. So settle in, pour yourself a drink, and get ready to ponder. Could the watch industry ever embrace the fake? The prevailing dogma of ‘The Industry’ is that fakes and counterfeiting are anathema…

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03.08.2017

IN-DEPTH: Ostentatiously stealthy – the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Unico in carbon

The story in a second Got a blacked-out 488 rolling in and looking for the perfect watch to match? Read on. Hublot are masters of both the high-level partnership and the limited edition. Both of these traits are very much to the fore in their freshest round of Ferrari-themed Big Bangs. I recently had the pleasure of spending some time with this not at all under-the-radar carbon version. The case When the Big Bang was first introduced way back in 2005, it was simultaneously outré and appealing. These days the large and (dare we say) iconic modern sports watch is very…

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01.08.2017

HANDS-ON: Take the plunge with the Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver

Raymond Weil’s Freelancer is the sort of watch that’s an essential in any brand’s collection — a no fuss, utilitarian diver that’s ready for duty in all manners of social and sartorial settings, but still tough enough to handle the vicissitudes of a life well lived. While this Freelancer hides no huge surprises in terms of its specs – it’s 42.5mm across, 11.8mm high, powered by proven automatic movement, rated to 300m and equipped with a tough ceramic bezel – Raymond Weil has put the essential pieces together with a decent lashing of design panache. The hands and applied indices…

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31.07.2017

VIDEO: Design driven – Hublot’s Big Bang Ferrari Unico in King Gold

I can honestly think of few watch/car matches more perfect than that of Hublot and Ferrari. The two occupy similar positions in their respective ecosystems: big, bold, and yes, even brash — but also instantly recognisable and intensely coveted. But beyond that, the carmaker and watchmaker share a fearless approach to design and performance, and a tendency to do things their own way. Take LaFerrari for example — both the watch and the car. Although, not every collaboration between these two passion invoking brands is quite as intense as LaFerrari, as this latest limited edition Big Bang Unico demonstrates. At…

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29.07.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 watches that tell the world you’ve made it

Editor’s Note: We recently ran a list of power players who wore budget timepieces, which was cool, but for watch lovers like us, somewhat unsatisfactory. So to counterbalance this we thought we’d revisit this list of six statement pieces Andrew put together for The Weekly Review. The brief? Six watches that “show you’re a success in life”. Enjoy. Like a boss.  OMEGA – Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial It’s the Omega dive watch du jour, and thanks to its Bond connection and vintage inspired colour scheme it can be worn with anything. And by that, I really do mean anything. The Spectre limited edition…

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28.07.2017

VIDEO: From analogue to digital – Montblanc’s Augmented Paper

Yes, I know — this isn’t a watch. So what are we doing talking about it? Well, when we met with Montblanc to talk about their inaugural smartwatch – the Summit – they also showed us their Augmented Paper. Suffice to say, we were confused, fascinated… and when we saw it in action, impressed. Aside from the technology and how seamlessly it worked, the real standout is the fact that Montblanc is playing in this space at all. It would be easy for the brand to lean on their heritage status and stick to the tried and true formula of…

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28.07.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Yacht rock – Franck Muller style

Editor’s note: Ready your chinos, chains, and jackets with rolled up sleeves – yacht rock is upon us. Only this time, it’s Franck Muller rather than Kenny Loggins who’s bringing the OTT, Champagne-fuelled fun, in the Curvex-y form of the Yachting collection.  The name gives the game away a little, but the Yachting watch offers a fresh nautical feel on the wrist. The marine allusions start with the dial, a shimmering navy blue that pairs well with the bright white Arabic hour markers. On top of that the centre of the dial displays a compass rose, a navigational motif that…

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27.07.2017

INSIGHT: Speedmaster, Seamaster, Railmaster – which Omega 1957 Trilogy watch is right for you?

Seeing Omega’s 1957 Trilogy 60th Anniversary boxed set in the metal was one of the highlights of Baselworld this year for Andrew, Andy and myself. Not least because we realised that seeing these three pitch perfect reissues in one place ever again was unlikely, given the astonishing demand. And while getting your hands on the big boxed set (limited to 557 pieces) is a nigh-on-impossible task, we suspect getting one of the Speedmaster, Seamaster or Railmasters limited to 3557 pieces each is more achievable. The only question is, which one do you pick? Read on for what we chose, and…

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25.07.2017

VIDEO: A slightly smaller statement watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 43mm

TAG Heuer’s avant-garde new take on the classic Carrera, the Heuer 01, has become an increasingly bright – and big – star in the brand’s firmament since its release in 2015. TAG Heuer have used the modular case as a vehicle to release everything from tourbillons to smartwatches. The only bone of contention thus far has been the size. 45mm is not small by any means, especially when you factor in the height of the Heuer 01 movement. The new (slightly) smaller 43mm version is a smart solution. Make no mistake — it’s still a large statement watch, but slightly less intense on…

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Longines Legend Diver Milanese loop 25.07.2017

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver, now on mesh 

Earlier this year we had a look at one of the classic watches from Longines’ catalogue, the Legend Diver – a heritage diver inspired by old-school super compressors. The Legend has always been popular amongst watch lovers, and an important precursor to the heritage trend that has slowly grown to become all-encompassing. Turns out that the Legend Diver celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and Longines has celebrated by popping on a new strap option – a heavy and handsome Milanese mesh bracelet. And while the watch itself is unchanged, this woven steel bracelet is a great example of the…

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24.07.2017

VIDEO: Smart and stylish – the Montblanc Summit

When smartwatches burst onto wrists in a big way with the Apple Watch and its Android powered competitors, the response from the Swiss hegemony lacked a single clear message. Some brands spurned the very concept of a luxury smartwatch, while others wholeheartedly embraced this new frontier. A few years on and the landscape has changed, with the large luxury groups seeing potential in this relatively new market segment. At the Richemont group, the smart push is spearheaded by Montblanc and their traditionally styled Summit watch. Funnily enough, it’s the fact that the brand has gone to great efforts to make…

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23.07.2017

VIDEO: Panerai – the art of the tool watch, explained

All this week we’ve been asking people what Panerai means to them, and we couldn’t think of a better way of wrapping it up than hearing from Panerai collector – and a man with an eye for fine design – Michael S. Michael, or Mickey to most, manages to sum up just what makes Panerai great in under a minute. The key features that Panerai initially developed were with naval warfare in mind. They resulted in a tool watch that is (paradoxically) both under the radar and instantly recognisable. Far from being a trend-driven brand, it’s the fact that the watches have…

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22.07.2017

LIST: A short timeline of Tudor’s movement technology

Tudor’s BB Chrono has been one of the most talked about movements of the year. It has a formidable set of specs, and the collaboration with Breitling is a bold (and smart) play. But it’s far from Tudor’s first step on the road from ETA to movement autonomy. Here’s what they’ve achieved in a few short years. 2011 – The Advisor Not many people realise the story of Tudor’s movement development goes back as far as 2011 –  to the very first watch in the Heritage collection, the Advisor. The Advisor is one of the unsung heroes of the collection,…

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21.07.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 21st July, 2017

There’s an inherent irony in the Friday Wind Down that gets me every time. It’s often the last item on my weekly to do list – the one thing between me and a (very) well-earned knock off drink. For me, writing this isn’t much of a wind-down, if you know what I mean. So with that (and a beer) firmly in mind, I’m going to make this short and sweet. What happened We had more tourbillons in the office over the last week or so than usual, and in general, we’ve been photoshoot city. Our go-to snapper, Jason has really been…

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20.07.2017

VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono – what it’s really like on the wrist

Earlier this week we ran a thousand or so words on the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, along with some pretty crispy pics, which are – as the saying goes – easily worth another few thousand words. But in our ever more hectic lives, time becomes an increasingly precious commodity, which is why we’ve also put together this 90-second video review to give you a real sense of what the watch is *actually* like on the wrist, and in three dimensions. We also opted to show the leather bracelet version, which has a very different feel to the rivet style bracelet;…

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18.07.2017

IN-DEPTH: Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono – greater than the sum of its parts?

The story in a second The Black Bay gets complicated and Tudor adds a surprising twist in the movement… Over the years Tudor has proved their mastery of a particular genre of historically revisionist bricolage – most obviously through their fan-favourite diver, the mighty Black Bay. Except now that straight up diver classification doesn’t sit so easy. The 36 and 41 models add a dressy touch, and the Chrono brings a hefty dose of sporty style to the mix. So perhaps the real question is: does the pick and mix approach, which serves Tudor so well with the relatively restrained palette of…

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15.07.2017

LIST: 6 classic chronographs from $6k to $60k

Chronographs are amongst the most popular complications with collectors. Perhaps because people use them for important timing events in their daily lives or – more likely – they speak to the spirit of adventure and action that’s hard to resist. Whatever the reason, here are six that have stood the test of time. Omega Speedmaster Professional Any list of classic chronographs has to include the mighty Speedy. Sure, it might not be the most original option, but it’s been to the moon, people… the MOON. $6375 on steel TAG Heuer Autavia One of TAG Heuer’s mightiest chronos is the Autavia,…

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15.07.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: How to impress a woman with your watch in 5 easy steps

Editor’s Note: Sure, your watch fam are super impressed with that sweet 5513 with all the trimmings you picked up for a song. Well done you. Regular people of the female persuasion? Not so much. Ceri drops some timeless truth bombs on how to dress your wrist to impress. Firstly, let’s not delude ourselves: your timepiece is going to impress more men than women. That’s a given. Unless of course it’s awful. If that’s the case, you’ll be slaying precisely no one – and also, how did you find your way to Time+Tide? However, there are a few ways you can…

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14.07.2017

BREAKING NEWS: Richemont announces resignation of Georges Kern, Head of Watchmaking, Marketing and Digital

In a short statement published on their website, Richemont has announced that Georges Kern has resigned, effective immediately. Kern, long time CEO of IWC was promoted to the prominent position of ‘Head of Watchmaking, Marketing and Digital’ for the entire Richemont group just four months ago. He has been seen by many as one of the leading figures in bringing luxury watchmaking into the digital age. Richemont chairman, Johann Rupert made a statement on the surprise (if not shocking) departure: “Georges has been offered an interesting opportunity to become an entrepreneur. He has had a very successful career at IWC Schaffhausen and…

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12.07.2017

HANDS-ON: Undeniably impressive – the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang 45mm Sapphire

The Spirit Of Big Bang is one of my favourite lines from Hublot. Partially that’s down to my occasionally contrarian nature wanting to stand out from the regular Big Bang herd, but mostly it’s because I find the large and in charge tonneau case shape is a perfect complement to the brand’s Art of Fusion philosophy. I’ve worn the 45mm King Gold Spirit, and the smaller 43mm titanium moonphase version and enjoyed them both immensely. They’re imposing-yet-fun on the wrist, and this all sapphire version takes the concept to the next level. This is a Statement watch with a capital…

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11.07.2017

VIDEO: Tudor pares it back with the Black Bay Steel

I’m on record as being quite a fan of the Black Bay Steel. For me, it was one of the real highlights of Baselworld 2017. At first this might seem like a bit of an odd choice as the BB Chrono and S&G were the ‘buzzier’ pieces. For me, though, the Steel takes the Black Bay back to what it’s all about — the core of the collection. At its heart, this watch isn’t overly complicated or flashy. It’s a robust, everyday diver with a healthy dose of nostalgia thrown in. And that’s what the Steel delivers in spades. By…

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10.07.2017

HANDS-ON: A charming surprise – the Oris Big Crown 1917 

Oris has developed a bit of a reputation for consistently releasing surprising vintage-inspired pieces. Having said that, their Big Crown 1917 is a little more surprising than most. That’s partly because Oris had no idea the watch that inspired it existed — this little piece of Hölstein history has been sitting in their archives, quietly gathering patina. Happily, someone (who deserves a promotion, just quietly) at Oris noticed it and recognised the potential of their first pilot’s watch, just in time for its 100th anniversary. Not a foot has been put wrong with the Big Crown 1917; all the elements…

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08.07.2017

LIST: Forget the Patek, here are 5 lots from Only Watch 2017 you might actually have a chance on

The big watch news of the week has been the announcement of the unique watches being auctioned off to raise funds for Duchenne muscular dystrophy in the seventh bi-annual instalment of Only Watch. And while everyone’s (rightly) excited about the Patek, F.P. Journe and Tudor unique pieces, we’re pretty sure that they’ll quickly move into the rarefied air of bajillionaire collectors. If you’re interested in trying your luck at scoring a one-of-a-kind piece of horology here are five options that we suspect will hammer in within reach of mere mortals come November 11. Konstantin Chaykin Joker Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin…

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07.07.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 7th July, 2017 

It’s a Wind Down for one this week, as I’m currently alone in the office engaging in some fairly serious desk dancing to this sprawlingly awesome mix. But it’s not all fun and games because watches are a Very Serious Business. Just ask the Swiss. Or the Germans or Japanese for that matter. So, have a drink, but make sure it’s a serious one — more Manhattan, less Melbourne Bitter. What happened? Omega announced their latest Bond limited edition, the Commander’s Watch. It’s hard to tell, but the summery feel of this Seamster caused more askance eyebrow-raising than most Omega LEs.…

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06.07.2017

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Horograph

Earlier this year Bell & Ross released a pair of their trademark square watches that demonstrated quite a different take on their perennial aviation theme. The BR 03-92 Horolum, a slab of grey metal, was inspired by an airport’s tarmac. This version, the BR 03-92 Horograph, takes a similarly pedestrian inspiration — the ubiquitous and useful airport clock. As you can imagine, legibility is the aim of the game here, with stark white printed baton indices and broad stick hands set against a matt black dial. A red-tipped second hand, date at four and a discreet minute track complete the…

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05.07.2017

HANDS-ON: A classic, redefined – The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel

Forget the fuss about the Sea-Dweller and the palaver over the Sky-Dweller, the real Rolex of 2017 is the Datejust 41 in steel. On the surface, the reasons might not be immediately obvious. After all, the Datejust 41 isn’t new (it was released last year in yellow and Everose Rolesor versions), and its looks are almost the very definition of classic. But despite this – or because of it – we’re confident in predicting that the steel Datejust 41 will be one of their most popular models this year. Let’s step back for just a second. What is a Datejust…

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03.07.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Revisiting the Omega Seamaster 300

Editor’s Note: Initially released in 2014, the Seamaster 300 was a near perfect combination of heritage and technique. Four years on and still going strong — I’d say it’s holding its own as one of the best dive watches in its price point on the market.   The story in a second The Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial was one of the best watches of 2014, combining the brand’s rich history with their impressive Master Co-Axial movement. The big question Does Omega finally have a dive watch that can challenge the supremacy of the Rolex Submariner? Last year Omega answered the…

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01.07.2017

LIST: 4 everyday casual watches for under $10k

Are you under sartorial pressure in your nine to five? Feel the need to up your office attire? Well, we can’t help you with suits and shoes, but wrists? We’ve got you covered. We’ve found four perfect daily wearers that will dazzle your peers, no matter how dull your PowerPoint is. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Over the decades the Datejust has become the definitive everyday casual option, and with its combination of refinement and rugged construction, it’s easy to see why. The Datejust 41, just released in steel, brings the classic up to a modern size and adds a…

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30.06.2017

RECOMMENDED READING: The dreaded ‘If you could only wear one watch’ question

Every time a bunch of watch guys get together and have a few drinks, this old chestnut rears its head: “What if you could only wear one watch?” It’s a question loathed and loved in equal measure. Loved because it forces you to distill your values, tastes and hoarding tendencies into a single piece, which can provide clarity. Loathed because it forces you to distill your values, tastes and hoarding tendencies into a single piece, which is a scary proposition. So when Justin from Robb Report US reached out and asked me this exact question, I stewed on it for…

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29.06.2017

HANDS-ON: The sleeper hit — Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 WW.TC in steel

Girard-Perregaux is one of Swiss watchmaking’s best-kept secrets. The La Chaux-de-Fonds based brand offers a complete — and compelling — package, fine pedigree, and a catalogue that ranges from the highest of high horology, through to some more accessible (yet still exceptional) pieces. But, for whatever reason, GP has long lacked the sort of name recognition they deserve, and which is enjoyed by some of their Helvetican siblings. But it feels like that’s on the cusp of change. Girard-Perregaux is back at the SIHH, with a particularly strong and focused collection. And while the Laureato is their shining star, there…

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28.06.2017

UPDATE: 2 days to go on Longines’ Flagship Heritage by Kate Winslet auction and why you should bid

Last week we told you how Longines had teamed up with ambassador of elegance, Kate Winslet, to raise money for The Golden Hat Foundation by auctioning off a very limited series of gold Flagship Heritage watches. On their own, they’re lovely and classic gold watches. But they’re only half the story. The other half of the equation is that as part of the deal you get flown to meet Kate who will personally give you your watch. But wait, there’s more. You and a guest will also get business class flights and five-star accommodation to one of the many sporting events…

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28.06.2017

OPINION: We need to talk about bezel screws

“Such a shame they don’t take the time to align their screws. I wouldn’t buy one purely because of this.” Every time we post a picture of a watch with exposed bezel screws (mostly Hublot or Bell & Ross) we get a variation of this comment. And I’m well and truly over it. While many brands use exposed screws on bezels, the most commonly cited example is that of the iconic Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. It’s certainly what all the commenters on our social feeds reference when they’re lambasting other brands for their inability to align screws. But you…

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27.06.2017

INTRODUCING: The Archimede Pilot 42 GMT – proven quality at a price that’s hard to beat

German based Archimede is one of those small brands that quietly go about their business, sticking to their niche and making some excellent watches with minimal fuss. And while their catalogue offers a full suite of products, from dress to diver, it’s pilots that they’re best known for. And while Archimede’s design has evolved a little over the years, fundamentally it holds very true to the WWII-era aviator’s watches. The latest addition to the collection is a GMT, housed in a reasonably sized 42mm steel case that’s quite slim at 9.2mm thick. The second timezone is displayed via a red…

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27.06.2017

HANDS-ON: The complementary tones of the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter in bronze

Way back in January, one of the watches we were most excited to see at the SIHH was Montblanc’s high-end, Minerva-powered 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter in bronze. Partially because it’s a hot watch and partially because of its extremely limited production (only 100 pieces) we thought this would be the only chance we’d get to try it on. Luckily though, Montblanc also took the opportunity to release some regular production bronze models which are equally awesome, but not in quite the same league as this Villeret piece. Make no mistake, the calibre MB M16.29 is the star here. The manually-wound monopusher chronograph…

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26.06.2017

HANDS-ON: A traveller’s twin-set – Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT PAM 628 and PAM 657

Over the last few years, Panerai has gone to a lot of effort to evolve their offering. The foundation pieces are still there – aggressively simple dive watches that make little effort to belie their military origins, but these days the brand has so much more to offer, from hi-tech tourbillons to slender dress options. These two GMTs, released last year, are the kind of watches that bridge old and new. They’re undeniably Panerai, with the large 45mm Radiomir 1940 case and instantly recognisable combination of super-stylised Arabics and hash marks, but look closer and the changes are obvious too.…

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25.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I’m no longer a ‘vintage watch guy’

Editor’s Note: In the office there’s a bit of a running joke about my taste in watches – that I *only* like 36mm vintage pieces. And while I do own one 36mm vintage watch, the two watches I wear most often are 40 and 45mm respectively (both new, btw). I used to be much more into the old stuff, but these days not so much.  When I first started getting seriously into watches, I was all about vintage. In my mind this is where it was at. I lusted after the IWC Mark XI, the Omega Memomatic and the Tudor…

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24.06.2017

LIST: 4 winter warmers you can buy right now, for less than $6k

The northern parts of the world might be enjoying long, lazy afternoons of relaxation and summer fun, but down here in Australia things have taken a turn for the cooler. So to help take the chill off we’ve found four winter warmer timepieces to hold you over until the summer months. Bulgari Octo Roma With its dark caramel dial and rich chestnut strap, Bulgari’s brand new Octo Roma is the watchmaking equivalent of a well-worn Chesterfield, eternally stylish and always comfortable.  $5950 USD    Sinn 356 SA Pilot II The dial on this Sinn has to be seen to be…

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23.06.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 23rd June, 2017 – Anyone for a climate pun?

It’s that time of the year when we start making Jon Snow/winter puns, but they’re getting a bit long in the tooth, so I’ll try and find a new, more topical climate-based pun. Actually no, all I can think of is climate change gags, and that’s all a bit too real. So I’ll just stick to watches. Speaking of, here’s what’s happened this week, for your Wind Down pleasure. What happened That auction train just keeps on rollin’ – the latest significant piece to go under the hammer is a Jackie Kennedy Onassis Cartier Tank, which sold for $379,500 at…

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23.06.2017

HANDS-ON: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC – a modern take on military style

Blancpain has an excellent history in dive watches, and among the most coveted are the military-issued pieces. In this already hyper-specialised niche, the MIL-SPEC I and MIL-SPEC II watches stand head and shoulders above the rest. These watches were first created in 1957 to meet the very specific needs of the United States Navy. In fact, if you really want to nerd out we’d highly recommend reading the actual military specification – MIL-W-22176A(SHIPS). The most distinctive feature of this watch is the hemispheric moisture indicator on the bottom half of the dial. It’s this feature that Blancpain has celebrated with…

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22.06.2017

HANDS-ON: JLC’s mean machine – the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic, now in black and pink gold

This Jaeger-LeCoultre is a great example of just how true the old saying about assumptions is. You see, it’s easy to pigeonhole JLC as producing only fine, delicate and dressy watches – classic Reversos, or smart vintage-inspired pieces, for example. And while it’s true that this style of watchmaking is their bread and butter, that doesn’t mean they’re not supremely well-equipped to belt out a truly excellent contemporary piece when they put their mind to it. This latest version of the Master Compressor Chronograph ceramic illustrates the point perfectly. This stealthy-luxe sports watch was released at SIHH with (appropriately enough)…

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21.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The most impressive quartz watch in the world and 3 other surprising things I learned about Seiko in Japan

Editor’s Note: Until relatively recently Seiko’s watchmaking – in particular their Grand Seiko and Credor lines – was something of an insiders’ secret, with their quality of finish and precision of workmanship not as widely recognised (or marketed) as those of the Swiss marques. That’s all begun to change, and looks set to change even more now that Grand Seiko is a fully independent brand. Last year I took a trip to discover more about the secrets of Seiko. This is what I found… I’ve always liked Seiko. One of the first watches I ever bought was a Black Monster, followed…

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20.06.2017

HANDS-ON: A winning combination – the yellow gold, Cerachrom and Oysterflex Rolex Daytona (ref. 116518LN) 

When I first saw the new gold Daytonas at Basel, I didn’t quite know what to make of them. After the phenomenal success of last year’s new steel and Cerachrom Daytona, further extension of the line seemed inevitable, and precious metals the logical step. But I did not expect – and was somewhat confused by – the choice to pair these yellow, white and Everose gold Daytonas with an Oysterflex bracelet. Add to this the fact that I was feeling some pretty intense feelings about the new Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller, and it’s fair to say that I didn’t give these…

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Montblanc's limited edition Orbis Terrarum for UNICEF, on the wrist for video review 19.06.2017

VIDEO: Montblanc’s Orbis Terrarum UNICEF limited edition

When they’re done right, limited edition watches are great. They offer some exclusivity, membership to a special club, and that feeling of being part of something bigger than yourself. When they’re done badly, limited editions are merely a poorly thought-out logo whacked on a dial. Thankfully this UNICEF limited edition is very much in the former camp. Montblanc has taken one of their coolest models, the Orbis Terrarum, made some super-subtle design tweaks and wrapped it all into a very worthy cause. Who wouldn’t like it? Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum LATIN UNICEF Australian pricing and availability Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum…

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17.06.2017

LIST: You could buy one of these 5 watches… or put a deposit on a house

Australia’s property market is brutal right now, with some eye-watering prices and fierce competition. Even if you’re in a position to buy, getting some actual skin in the game is hard, thanks to the shark pool known as the Saturday morning auction schedule. So, if you’ve lucked out one time too many, you might be tempted to throw in the towel, eat your weight in avocado toast and spend the deposit on a nice watch instead. Here are five contenders (all currently available in Australia, just FYI). Patek Philippe 5270G If we had to peg this gorgeous blue-dialled perpetual calendar…

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16.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: It’s all in the crown – the steel Clé de Cartier

Editor’s Note: While everyone’s been going crazy over Cartier’s Drive recently, we’ve still got a lot of love in our hearts for the cushiony Clé – especially in steel. Read below to find out why… The story in a second Cartier’s key collection of 2015 just became a whole lot more accessible.   Much fuss has been made over Cartier’s manly new Drive collection, and rightly so. But the Parisian powerhouse also released another excellent, and highly anticipated, men’s watch this year – the Clé de Cartier in steel. It’s no secret that we fell pretty hard for the Clé when we…

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16.06.2017

EVENT: Epic watches and why the Australian market matters — the Sydney Hour Glass GTG with Michael Tay

The concept of GTGs, or G2Gs, or get togethers in plain english, is a staple of the Instagram handled, Facebook-inhabiting individuals known collectively as ‘the watch fam’. For all that the growth of watch collecting and connoisseurship has been driven by digital platforms, there’s nothing quite like meeting like-minded people in person, calling them by their Instagram name and fondling the watch on their wrist. Typically GTGs are semi-regular affairs, based around fora, Facebook groups or, more recently, organisations like RedBar (started by this guy). Well, the GTG that took place in The Hour Glass’ freshly opened Sydney boutique will…

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15.06.2017

LIST: Improve your daily carry with 4 objects from Montblanc’s latest UNICEF collection

Over the years we’ve noticed that a love of finely wrought watches often results in a halo effect on the ecosystem of small objects and accessories in your daily life. You start noticing that the other components of your daily carry that have served you well for years – wallets, keychains and the like – are starting to look a little tatty. And of course there are as many options for these everyday essentials as there are watches (ie. countless), and finding the right pen/cufflink/business card holder can be a daunting task. When in doubt, it’s hard to go wrong…

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13.06.2017

VIDEO: The dressy new face of the TAG Heuer Link 

TAG Heuer has pulled off a minor miracle with the Link. They’ve taken one of their most recognisable designs, one synonymous with the ‘90s, and made it relevant in 2017.  They’ve achieved this by focusing on the most important part of the watch – the bracelet. Link actually began life as a bracelet back in 1987, and the intertwining ’s’ shape links are instantly recognisable. TAG Heuer has made the smart move of toning down the sportiness. This Link is dressy, with a well-sized 41mm cushion-shaped case, and brings the model firmly into the realm of dressy sports. It’s a wonderful…

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12.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Always evolving – the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10

Editor’s Note: This year Hublot released several golden new Meca-10s, and we were surprised at just how different they looked to the original. Before we go into depth on those, we thought we’d take a second look at the OG version, a watch that is, in my humble opinion, one of the best evolutions of Hublot’s Big Bang in some years.  The story in a second New movement + new look = new ball game? Hublot describe their Meccano-inspired Big Bang Meca-10 as a ‘transitional object’. It’s an interesting choice of phrase. You could take it literally and assume that Hublot are referring…

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10.06.2017

LIST: 5 watches under $5k that you can buy right now

There are few things more frustrating than seeing pictures of an incredible watch, reading the news and reviews of just how great it is, only to discover that it won’t be hitting actual stores for months. It’s a very specific feeling (in fact there’s probably a word for it in German, uhrenverbotenangst or some such), and one we can relate to. Well, today we’re hoping to ease that pain just a little with five watches you can buy right now. And what’s more, they’re all under $5k. You’re welcome. Tudor Black Bay S&G It’s gold, it’s steel, it’s David Beckham’s…

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10.06.2017

VIDEO: One for the ladies – the Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook in white

So far this week we’ve looked at the larger 45mm Captain Cook and the smaller vintage versions. To round out the trifecta, we’re taking this bright and beach-ready number for a spin. Now, this isn’t your typical ‘on the wrist’ review, as the mesh bracelet is intended for wrists smaller (and less hairy) than my one. But you can still see how the all-white colour scheme really makes this design pop, especially when helped out by the diamond hour markers and the field of reflections that is the Milanese-style bracelet. Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 37mm (white) Australian pricing The Rado HyperChrome…

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09.06.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 9th June, 2017

Would you believe I’m winding down alone, in a Sydney hotel room, looking out over an exceptionally dreary parking lot? It would be sad if not for the fact that in a few short hours I’m going to be hanging with some of Australia’s finest watch nerds and some of Switzerland’s finest watches at a catch-up at The Hourglass. So don’t feel too sorry for me. This is also why it’s a shorter wind down than usual – I’ve got to make myself look pretty. What happened Citizen released a tourbillon. Yep, you read that right. And what’s even crazier is…

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08.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The greatest chronograph of our times? The rise and rise of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Datograph Up/Down

Editor’s Note: In the hurly burly hustle of endless new releases it’s sometimes important to sit back in a Chesterfield or similar with an overfull glass of burgundy and let it all sink in. Rinse, repeat. What floats to the top of mind? What watch still hits you in the lungs like a chest mark when you see it? What never-seen-before technical advancement of this or that still tickles the brain and creates a tingling sensation in the wallet pocket region? Lastly, whose value is holding up on Chrono 24? Fire up the Bentley Jeeves, we’re heading back to Germany again…   Put…

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08.06.2017

VIDEO: The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook, live on the wrist

We’ve already given you a pretty thorough look at Rado’s pint-sized and patriotic Captain Cook, but while still photography is great at showing the finer details – that sunbrush finish and crisp dial printing, for example – video gives you a much more holistic picture. If you want to know how that dial looks under the glass box sapphire (hint – it looks awesome), or whether that ceramic is too shiny, then video is the way to go. And if you’ve been tossing up the pros and cons of regular vs limited, this could help you seal the deal –…

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07.06.2017

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XVII – a tribute to the last man on the moon

The relationship between Omega and space is special. Central to this relationship, of course, is the Speedmaster Professional, a phenomenally popular watch thanks in no small part to the cool-by-association links with NASA and the American space program. Naturally it’s something that Omega hasn’t been shy about capitalising on (even though former President Stephen Urquhart had his reservations), with countless space-themed ad campaigns and limited editions throughout the years. Limited edition Speedmasters are a funny thing: you can guarantee that every year or so Omega will celebrate a mission anniversary, or something similar, and this regularity sometimes makes it hard to…

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06.06.2017

IN-DEPTH: The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook – one of the best reissues of 2017

The story in a second Who expected a drool-worthy heritage reissue from ceramic focused Rado at Baselworld? No one, that’s who. While Rado is particularly well-known for their use of high-tech ceramic and hard metals, they’ve got a long history in water resistant and dive watches, launching their sporty ‘Green Horse’ series of watches (with a particularly cute seahorses logo on the dial) in 1958. In 1962 they released a simple little dive watch called the ‘Captain Cook’. Fast forward 55 years and Rado has released another series of watches named for the famed explorer. There’s a large 45mm version…

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05.06.2017

VIDEO: Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 45mm

Rado’s HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch perfect 37mm reissue. And while there’s a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that’s OK because Rado has covered their bases by releasing a contemporarily sized 45mm version. It’s not just the case size that’s impressive, but also the construction – with ceramic bezel, hardened titanium case construction and a solid 80 hours of power reserve. Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm Australian pricing Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm, $3175

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04.06.2017

RECOMMENDED READING: The shadow watchmakers of Switzerland

An horological mystery: our recommended read for the week is an article that describes the shadow watchmakers operating secretly in Switzerland. It’s fair to say that the watch industry isn’t renowned for a culture of transparency, with its sometimes confusing mix of companies, parent companies, and suppliers. Add to the equation a hefty dose of marketing invested in the concept ‘in-house’ and the waters become even murkier. The reality is that fully vertical watchmakers are very rare indeed, with most brands making use of third parties, be that in design or production. This (paywalled) Financial Times article investigates ‘secret watchmakers’, who…

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03.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Winter warmer – the Longines Heritage 1945

Editor’s Note: Simple vintage looks, rich tones, a brushed dial and a cinnamon suede strap to die for, all for a very reasonable price. The Longines Heritage 1945 – it’s the perfect watch for a crisp winter’s day.  One of the highlights on our Baselworld calendar is seeing what heritage re-release Longines has cooked up, and whoo boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re looking at the Heritage 1945, an absolutely on point interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything right. Funnily…

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02.06.2017

HANDS-ON: Dark and deadly – the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221)

To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko’s contemporary-looking new modular ceramic Spring Drives, I was on the fence. I didn’t expect it, and wasn’t sure what to think. Of course the quality and technical precision were very much in evidence, but the aesthetics were well outside the norm for the brand. But over time the slick looks grew on me – Grand Seiko’s trademark crisp lines look great in black ceramic, and the sporty style was well-suited to the Spring Drive Chrono. So in the lead up to Basel this year, I was looking forward to seeing where they’d…

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01.06.2017

OPINION: Fancy a date? In defence of the much-maligned date window

We’ve got a surprisingly complex relationship with date windows in the Time+Tide office. And not just because we’ve been known to forget to set them on occasion. No, every time we review a vintage reissue we can be assured that we’ll have a host of comments on various social media platforms that read something like this: “Love the design, but they RUINED it with that ugly date window.” I understand this reaction, and to be fair there are plenty of sloppily designed date windows out there. But ruining a watch? I’m not so sure. A few years ago we were interviewing…

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01.06.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 44 of the best watches from 2016 you can buy from $500 to $5000

Editor’s Note: Way back at the start of this year, Justin put together a series of ‘best of’ lists covering off some of 2016’s finest timepieces – watches that offered maximum return for minimal investment. Now, as we hurtle head-first into that golden period in Australia known as EOFY (end of financial year), we start thinking about tax returns, bonuses and bargains. Sure, you could use this (hopeful) windfall to do the prudent thing and pay the bills – or you could buy a watch. So we thought now was the perfect time to revisit these lists in the form of…

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30.05.2017

NEWS: Tudor announces David Beckham as new brand ambassador

At Baselworld Tudor unveiled a campaign and brand tagline – Born to Dare. Today we got a better understanding of what this means with the announcement of David Beckham as global brand ambassador and famous face of the Born to Dare campaign. At first the news of a luxury watch brand announcing a new endorsement might not seem particularly daring, but in this case it represents a significant new step for the brand, and a legitimately daring change of direction. This is the first time in many, many years that Tudor has had this level of celebrity ambassador, and certainly…

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29.05.2017

VIDEO: Why I love my watch – with Andre Agassi

Andre Agassi’s response to the question, “Are you into watches?” didn’t exactly go to script. “Not at all. I have no interest in them,” he said. It’s not the first time we’ve spoken at length to someone who doesn’t identify as a ‘watch person’ per se. Mark Bouris is one, Mark Richards another. But this really was a first. An interview subject, at the start of a 30-minute interview, declaring our whole subject area a dead zone. Ok then? There was a five second pause, and I let it be because he looked like he was going to continue talking.…

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27.05.2017

LIST: 5 travel-ready GMTs for under $5000

One of the most useful everyday complications is the GMT or dual time zone. If you travel a lot or do business internationally it’s certainly a lot easier to check your GMT than to fiddle with you phone trying to find the world clock app. Given the usefulness of this complication to the jet set, it’s also a genre dominated by pilot’s style watches, and for whatever reason, it’s a little under represented in the entry-to-mid tier price points. Well, all you thrifty frequent flyers can rest easy, as we’ve scouted out five of the finest affordable GMTs on the…

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26.05.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 26th May, 2017 – the auction edition

I don’t know about you, but we’ve had to drag ourselves away our screens and from the unholy timesucking triumvirate known as Twin Peaks, Master of None and Better Call Saul to find out what’s been happening in watchland. So, settle into your booth at the Double R diner, order some cherry pie and a cup of coffee, and find out what’s been going on. What happened? If you’re particularly keen T+T followers (well done you), you’ll have seen this pic on our FB, asking what watch Jac Nasser is wearing. Well, luckily this is one easier to spot than Jimmy McGill’s…

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25.05.2017

UPDATE: Rolex Paul Newman Daytona – most expensive watch sold at auction in Australia

On Monday we told you about a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona that was being auctioned by Sotheby’s Australia the following night. Well, on Wednesday we discovered that the watch hammered in at $219,600 (including buyer’s premium), making it the most expensive wristwatch ever auctioned in Australia. To find out more about what went down in Sydney on Tuesday – and what this means for the Australian vintage watch scene – I spoke to Hamish Sharma, Head of Jewels at Sotheby’s Australia, who was still recovering from such an exceptional result (the Important Jewels auction realised just over $1.8m, with 78.4…

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24.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Not your average chronograph – the Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec II Limited Edition

Editor’s Note: For my money, the Rieussec is one of the most interesting collections in Montblanc’s fine watchmaking line up. And, like most of the brand’s complicated pieces, it offers tremendous value for money. A beautiful column wheel chrono with a vertical clutch and some very pretty architecture, combined with a truly distinct style and of course that rich eggshell dial. What’s not to like?  The story in a second: This version of Montblanc’s distinctive Nicolas Rieussec collection has a nighttime party trick that’s worth staying up for. A nineteenth-century French watchmaker credited with inventing the chronograph, Nicolas Rieussec was…

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23.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: How to lose at Geneva watch auctions – a handy guide

Editor’s Note: Given that the dog and pony show that is the big Geneva watch auctions has just wrapped up (after breaking another bunch of records), we thought it was the perfect time to publish Time+Tide reader Julian Sack’s account of trying to buy a watch in Geneva, which we originally published one year ago – to the day. Now, Julian is no noob – he’s an experienced collector with a penchant for the Rolex Prince and Patek Philippe. So if you’ve got dreams to head to Switzerland and make a killing in the big auctions, this is a must-read. I’d never before…

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23.05.2017

VIDEO: The new Rolex Sea-Dweller (ref. 126600) – live on the wrist

Given that 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller, Rolex’s iconic deep diver, we were pretty confident that we were going to see an updated version at Baselworld. And the Big Crown did not disappoint, offering a brand new Sea-Dweller, the reference 126600, which quickly became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. Now, any new, top-line release from Rolex will get people fired up, but the increased size, the single line of red text and – most significantly – the addition of a Cyclops really stirred debate. As is always the case with watches, it’s best…

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22.05.2017

NEWS: Live in Australia and looking for a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? You might be in luck

The ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona is one of THE legendary watches. At its most basic level it’s an exotic dialled variant of the (already iconic) Rolex Daytona. Unpopular when it was originally released, things kicked off for the watch when pictures of Paul Newman wearing a ref. 6239 emerged and the once-obscure chronograph became one of the hottest tickets in town. And, like the story of all mythical creatures, that of the Paul Newman is a nugget of truth surrounded by a whole lot of  rumour, speculation and downright BS. The reason is simple – Paul Newmans are worth big dollars.…

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22.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Small changes make a big impact – the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Accio Automatic (PAM 682)

It’s been a strong year for the Submersible collection, with Panerai hitting home runs with the latest Bronzo, the ingenious BMG-Tech and the luxe lusciousness of the solid gold PAM 684. And while all these models offer a little something extra, be it limited edition exclusivity, material innovation or a solid chunk of gold, there’s also a Submersible for the rest of us, and that’s the PAM 682. Cased in plain brushed steel, on a rubber strap, the PAM 682 is the essence of the Submersible – tool-like, utilitarian and unquestionably Panerai. It’s also 42mm, which opens the traditionally beefy diver…

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21.05.2017

VIDEO: The most complicated watch in the world – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega

Franck Muller has the impressive title of ‘The Master of Complications’ – and this wristwatch is the reason why. The Aeternitas Mega features a staggering 36 complications, 21 hands and a movement with no fewer than 1483 parts. Reading the watch takes more than a little getting used to and adjusting it requires a PhD in advanced horology. But whatever you do, don’t let it run out of power – resetting it would be a pain.

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20.05.2017

HOW TO: Start your own ‘minimalist’ watch brand

We all have friends who wear watches made by brands like Daniel Wellington and The Horse. We also all know that these watches are, essentially, identical. Yet somehow these simple quartz dress watch look-a-likes seem to net their savvy owners massive piles of dosh. Some of us may have even wondered about starting our own minimalist brand like this (I know I have). Well, wonder no more as someone (who has chosen to remain anonymous) has uploaded a helpful guide to imgur. Here’s the original, but we’ve reposted it in full below. Bravo, mystery writer. Enjoy.

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19.05.2017

LIST: Square pegs in a round world – 6 of the best square watches

Sometimes the endless parade of circular watches gets a little monotonous. We’ve been conditioned by decades of design to default to the round in watches. By and large that’s fine, but sometimes we want something just outside the norm – still versatile, still stylish, but a little less same same. And there’s where the squares come in. Now, a word of warning. What constitutes a ‘square’ in watchmaking is a subjective business. Is it the dial? Is it the case? It’s tricky, because fine watch design is not as black and white as geometry would have you believe. Well, we’ve…

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18.05.2017

VIDEO: There’s more to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second than meets the eye

At first glance the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second seems simple enough, with its round 39.6mm case in satin-brushed steel and uncluttered dial. Closer examination reveals the unmistakable quality, the frosted silver opaline dial, the mirror-polished applied batons and slender hands. The strength of the case and the judicious use of luminous material let you know that the Geophysic isn’t strictly a dress watch. Even when you flip it over and gaze at the excellent finishing and handsomely skeletonised pink gold rotor, you probably won’t spot anything that marks this watch as something truly special. No, you need to see the…

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18.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin’s surprise sailing watch – the Marine Regatta

Ulysse Nardin made their name way back in 1846 making marine chronometres – highly accurate ship’s clocks that were an essential navigational tool in the times before radio and GPS. These days the Le Locle-based brand still makes chronometre-style timepeices, but as a celebration of heritage rather than a practical tool. This isn’t to say that Ulysse Nardin has given up on the sea; far from it, as their new Marine Regatta demonstrates. Developed with the support and input of Artemis Racing – the Swedish sailing team the brand sponsors – the Marine Regatta is, as the name suggests, a regatta…

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17.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Hublot takes matching your watch to your suit to the next level with the Classic Fusion Italia Independent

Aside from Big Bangs, Hublot is perhaps best known for their prolific, and occasionally surprising, partnerships. One of the most interesting, from a design and technique perspective, is Hublot’s relationship with Italia Independent and their famous frontman – Lapo Elkann. If you pay even the slightest bit of attention to the world of men’s style, you’re probably all too aware of Elkann. If you’re not down on the difference between spritz and sprezzatura, Elkann – grandson of billionaire industrialist and sartorial icon Gianni Agnelli – is a staple of the style and society pages. He’s also the founder and driving force behind Italia…

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17.05.2017

VIDEO: Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m gets a meaningful makeover

It’s easy to get distracted by the brightest, shiniest watches of Baselworld; the watches that live up to the marketing parlance of ‘novelties’. But sometimes the real winners are the quiet achievers. I suspect Omega’s redesigned Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m will be one of these winners. The AT (as it’s often called) has long been the go-to casual dress Omega, the obvious choice for those looking for an alternative to the storied Speedmaster or the sporty Seamaster. This year that choice just got easier. The dial has been significantly improved, with less busy text, a new horizontal stripe, and a…

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16.05.2017

EVENT: Passing on the gift of writing – Montblanc launches UNICEF collection in Australia, surrounded by incredible art

The entrance to the venue for last Friday’s Australian launch of Montblanc’s UNICEF collection was unassuming: commuters and shoppers on Melbourne’s busy Chapel street walked right past the narrow door wedged between two shopfronts. Blink and you’d miss it – we nearly did. A discreet sign was the only clue. But as soon as the door opened we knew we were in the right place. The narrow stairs of the Victorian terrace were littered with art – a Degas bronze on the landing and floor to ceiling canvases on the walls. As we reached the top of the stairs it was…

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16.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at Basel 2016’s bad boy – the Rolex Air-King

Editor’s Note: This year the watch that had tongues wagging at Baselworld was, without doubt, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono. Last year it was the Rolex Air-King, with its bold minute track and cheerful green and gold logo. Now that the Air-King is on wrists all over the world I’m struggling to justify the fuss. Sure, this masculine entry-level Rolex might not be to everyone’s tastes, but you know what – that’s OK.  The story in a second It was definitely a surprise when we saw it at Baselworld, but now the unconventional design of the new Rolex Air-King is…

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15.05.2017

NEWS: Former champion boxer Julio César Chávez Jr not having a good time – loses bout and has Hublot stolen in Las Vegas

Following in the grand tradition of elite athletes misplacing expensive watches, Mexican former WBC middleweight champion Julio César Chávez Jr has allegedly had his Hublot stolen from his Las Vegas hotel room. Chávez Jr’s wife, Frida, alleges that the unidentified Hublot (and a phone) were stolen from Chávez Jr by women with whom he was partying, and that she was later contacted by the thieves. Vaguely salacious video posted on Daily Mail shows Chávez, seemingly intoxicated, on a bed surrounded by women. Frida Chávez asserts that her husband may have been drugged in order to facilitate the theft. Luck clearly hasn’t…

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14.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: What makes a watch a keeper

Editor’s Note: We originally published this story way back in 2015, and you’ll be glad to know that Andrew still has his BLNR, and I’ve still got my Archimede. We can’t speak for everyone who answered our call out on Insta, but we suspect they’re still all getting plenty of wrist time. Without getting too first-year-political-science on you – the basis of modern life is disposability. We live in a consumer society. And that’s what we do – we consume. Everything is designed to be discarded and replaced with something newer and more expensive – from our clothes to coffee cups to…

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13.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Not your average Speedy – the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph

Editor’s Note: Green, gold, silver, and grey. What a colour combo! And who said that Speedies always had to be black? I spent some quality time with this quality watch last year, and, if I’m honest, I’ve still got more than a little crush.  If, at the start of 2016, you’d have told me my favourite Omega of the year would be a two-tone Speedmaster (yellow gold no less!) with a green bezel, I’d have enjoyed a good laugh at your expense. I like a Speedy as much as the next guy, but I like them in the straight-up classical…

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12.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Looking for a dressy daily wearer that’s a little left field? Try the Chopard L.U.C XP

I don’t want to sound like a jaded watch journalist because – let’s be honest – those guys are the worst. But having said that, there were not too many surprises at Baselworld 2017. I knew we’d be seeing Speedmasters from Omega, a Sea-Dweller from Rolex and some crazy-but-cool collabs from Hublot. I didn’t expect to be blown away by a simple, smart little dress watch from Chopard. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’ve got a lot of time for Chopard’s fine watchmaking (and indeed their high jewellery – though I’m not the target market there), but the way the Chopard L.U.C XP…

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12.05.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 12th May, 2017 – the e-commerce edition

One of the biggest trends in watches isn’t colour, shape or size, but rather something more prosaic and far more important – finding new ways to sell them. Twenty-two years after eBay was founded, the luxury sector is finally getting serious about selling watches online. So rather than slacking off and sipping exotic cocktails in what’s left of the winter sun, we’re hunkered down in front of our desks, reading financial news, like the nerds we are. What happened Look, we know it’s got nothing to do with e-commerce, but when everyone’s favourite scandi-watch/fashion/lyf-guru Kristian Haagen drops knowledge on vintage…

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11.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The purity of the Grand Seiko Automatic Hi-Beat 36000 (ref. SBGH005)

Editor’s Note: For all that the watch industry speaks about timelessness and classic design, it rides the winds of fad and fashion just like any other consumer-focused business. But that’s not always the case; there are some models that remain impressively unchanged, and pure to their origins. Watches like this simple and sophisticated Grand Seiko Automatic Hi-Beat 36000. The story in a second: Grand Seiko’s limited edition Hi-Beats are hot property, but the regular production SBHG005 is, not to overstate things in any way, a masterpiece of understated excellence. Most high-end watches are instantly recognisable as luxury objects. Your watch makes a…

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10.05.2017

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01, now in a wrist-friendly 43mm

One of the watches I was most looking forward to seeing in the metal at Baselworld was the 43mm version of the distinctive Heuer 01. Now, I’m quite the fan of TAG Heuer’s skeletonised and modular take on their classic Carrera, but there’s no denying that at 45mm across, it takes certain amount of wrist or confidence to pull it off. That the 43mm version will suit more wrists is good news, the fact that there were new colours in the offing only sealed the deal. There are quite a few new Heuer 01 43mm models, including versions with solid…

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10.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: No Submariners with black tie – 5 tips for tuxedo-appropriate timepieces

Editor’s Note: Few stories have caused as much angst in the T+T office as Ceri’s searing, take-no-prisoners guidelines for what we can and cannot wear with black tie. Not only are our suits/shoes/cummerbunds not up to snuff, but it turns out our watches don’t cut it either. Read on and prepare to re-evaluate your formalwear life choices. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. First up, although we’re not here to get all pedantic on your suit, it would be negligent of us not to remind you of a few guidelines, slash hard and fast rules, worth bearing in mind. Pay attention, please:…

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09.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Last year’s surprise Tudor hit just got bigger – the Heritage Black Bay 41

One of the standouts for Tudor last year was the small and simple Black Bay 36. For the first time Tudor’s key collection shed its dive watch origins in favour of a sleeker, more minimal look. It also lost a sizeable amount of bulk, trimming down to a svelte 36mm, making it ideal for women and suitable for men looking for something different. And while the BB 36 found plenty of fans, some were left wanting a little more. Well, Tudor has been paying attention, and at Baselworld the brand unveiled an upscaled, 41mm version. Case diameter aside, not a…

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08.05.2017

VIDEO: The Big Bang, but not as you know it – Hublot’s Sang Bleu in King Gold

One of the keys to success for any watch brand is to have something instantly recognisable – a watch that can be spotted from the other side of a crowded room. Hublot’s Big Bang is one such design. With its large size and uncommon case shape the Big Bang stands out, and the Sang Bleu is no exception. In fact, as this new version is made from a sizeable lump of King Gold, it’s guaranteed to be noticed. But once you get a bit closer you might start to notice things starting to look a little different. The normally rounded bezel…

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07.05.2017

LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts

Editor’s Note: Few brands can match the scope and scale of Cartier. The Parisian jewellery house offers everything from the popular and modern Juste un Clou collection through to some of the finest bespoke jewellery made. The same is true for their watch collections. Tanks and Ballon Bleus might be the order of the day, but Cartier is also capable of creating some truly exceptional technical and artistic pieces. It’s the latter category we’re going to explore today – the watches made in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts. It is impossible to overstate the importance of tradition to the Swiss watch industry.…

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06.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I’ll never buy a skeletonised watch

Editor’s Note: A few years back I got on my high horse about my arms. Specifically the fact that because of their impressive (some would say excessive) follicular nature, there is a genre of watch that I can never truly enjoy, that of the fully skeletonised watch. To say that my original post was widely read by the industry is perhaps a bit of an overstatement, but it’s certainly true that some brands, like Arnold & Son, are offering prettily scalloped solid casebacks or smoky sapphire alternatives to reduce the impact of unsightly hirsuite-ness. I like to think I’ve played…

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05.05.2017

HANDS-ON: The Raymond Weil Freelancer ‘Gibson Les Paul’ strikes a chord

If you’re familiar with Raymond Weil it should come as no surprise that music is a recurring theme in their collections. From homages to iconic performers such as The Beatles and the late, great David Bowie, through to watches made to honour particular instruments – such as their Nabucco Cello Tourbillon – Raymond Weil definitely has a soft spot for this most harmonious of the liberal arts. Which brings us to the Gibson Les Paul. Just as horology has its holy grails, the world of guitars also has its undisputed icons. One such legend is the Gibson Les Paul. Since its…

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05.05.2017

VIDEO: Smoke gets in your eyes – the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

When we evaluate a watch, one of our key criteria is clarity. Things like: Is the watch legible? Can you read the time in an instant? But clarity isn’t everything. There’s something to be said for mystery, and for artful concealment. And that’s exactly what makes the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire so appealing. On the one hand, this watch lays itself bare, showing off the innermost working of the perpetual calendar complication. On the other, the use of a smokey sapphire dial adds just the right amount of ambiguity. The result is compelling. And, for an RRP of $30,890…

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04.05.2017

INTRODUCING: This brand new Tudor Black Bay Bronze is a bolt from the blue

We did not see this one coming. At all. You’re looking at a Tudor Black Bay Bronze, freshly decked out in a particularly regal shade of blue. Before you get on the line to your local Tudor dealer, you should know there’s a ‘but’: this isn’t a regular production Tudor. It’s a special collaboration with venerable jewellery retailer Bucherer, who have been trading in some of the world’s finest watches since 1888. This Tudor is the latest addition to Bucherer’s ongoing series, the Bucherer Blue Editions (which also includes blue timepieces made by the likes of AP, IWC, Piaget and Moser,…

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04.05.2017

VIDEO: 3 of the biggest Blancpains from Baselworld

If you love dive watches but don’t love the wrist-dominating size that typically goes along with the genre, you’ll want to pay close attention to Blancpain this year. Alongside new 38mm versions of the pared-back Bathyscaphe, they’ve also released a particularly hot limited edition – the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec. Not only does this heritage-inspired little legend come in at a crowd-pleasing 40mm, it’s also got a funky-yet-functional dial decoration in the form of a moisture indicator. If that bi-colour circle at six changes colour, time to get your watch out of the water and into the service centre. But…

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03.05.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: TAG Heuer’s new breed – the Carrera Heuer 01

Editor’s Note: These days TAG Heuer’s contemporary new Carrera is a defined part of the watch landscape – coming in a wide range of colours and materials and decked out with diamonds and tourbillons. There’s even a slightly smaller 43mm version. It’s easy to forget just how surprising and ‘new’ this design was when it was first released back in 2015. This is what we thought then. The story in a second: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 is emblematic of TAG Heuer under the stewardship of Jean-Claude Biver; a bold new look at a bold new price. The press release…

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03.05.2017

HANDS-ON: The Nomos Club Campus makes the grade

If you’re an avid follower of our Instagram stories, you might have overheard my candid thoughts on the new entry level Nomos as we captured some scenic pre-Basel scene-setting. As Andrew live-panned a view of the Rhine, I could be heard distinctly in the background saying, “Ooh, new Nomos … huh, not sure about that.” The reason for my reticence (I’m typically effervescent about my favourite German watch brand) was the dial, particularly those two Roman numerals on the bottom half. First, some background on the Club. This round, slightly less classical Nomos has been a stalwart of their line-up…

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02.05.2017

HANDS-ON: One simple word that makes the Longines Record a big deal

Here at Time+Tide we make no bones about being greatly enamoured of Longines’s heritage offerings, so it’s understandable that we made a beeline for the Lindbergh and 1945 models. However, our attention was rapidly drawn to the comparatively pared-back Record, which intrigued us with one simple word on its dial – ‘chronometer’. Now, in case you’re not up with your watch jargon, a chronometer is a essentially a very precise and accurate timepiece. And while in the past the task of certifying chronometers fell to astronomical observatories, these days it’s the duty of Contrôle Officiel Suisses des Chronomètres, Switzerland’s chronometer testing institute.…

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02.05.2017

VIDEO: 3 outstanding Breguet watches from Basel 2017, including the incredible Marine Équation Marchante

Breguet may not have had the largest collection on display at Basel, but they certainly had one of the most complex. As well as some handsome new additions to the Classique family, Breguet released an epic new grand complication – the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, a completely new watch boasting a perpetual calendar, tourbillon power reserve and, wait for it… a running equation of time. What’s that, I hear you ask? Well, you’ll have watch the video and find out.

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01.05.2017

HANDS-ON: Way of the warrior – the Seiko Samurai returns in 2017

Seiko’s Prospex series of professional dive watches is renowned for two things: its exceptionally high quality-to-value ratio and its large number of passionate fans. And while there are a few perennial standouts in the Prospex family, some parts of the collection ebb and flow based on style and popularity. One such model is the so-called ‘Samurai’, a contemporarily styled 200m diver produced for a few years from 2004. Released in a range of dials variants, and in steel or titanium cases, the watch earned its moniker because the handset reminded wearers of the distinctive angles of the aforementioned warriors’ swords. Also,…

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01.05.2017

VIDEO: 4 winning Rados to look out for in 2017

When you walk into the Rado booth at Basel you can be pretty confident that you’ll see ceramic – and lots of it. This year the brand did not disappoint, offering up their trademark hi-tech watches in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours. There’s the new Ceramica – Rado’s distinctive rectangular design – which has been given an automatic upgrade and a fresh case of matt grey ceramic. Then there’s a brace of True models, made in collaboration with designers of all stripes. Our picks were the topographical True Stratum and the clever bling of the True Blaze. And then…

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30.04.2017

INTRODUCING: Looks good, does good – the Montblanc UNICEF Orbis Terrarum Limited Edition

Montblanc has been supporting UNICEF, the United Nations organisation dedicated to improving the lives of children, since 2004, with a particular focus (appropriately enough) on children’s literacy. To date they’ve donated more than $10m USD, and have pledged another $1.5m within the next 12 months. Their latest UNICEF collection offers a complete suite of luxury lifestyle companions, including leather goods and a set of particularly handsome writing instruments inspired by the Rosetta stone. Of particular interest to us though is the trio of limited edition Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum watches. We’re on record as being fans of Montblanc’s cleverly designed…

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28.04.2017

OPINION: The 6 most overused words in the watch industry

A large part of my job is sifting through press releases. After a while they all start reading the same, thanks to the seemingly limited vocabulary of most marketing departments. And you know what the greatest irony is? While these communications have been designed to make the watch they’re talking about stand out and sound unique, the constant, jargonistic repetition of these rote phrases has precisely the opposite effect. Now, it’s only fair to point out that I’m far from guilt-free in this situation. I’m pretty sure I’ve abused all the below words at some point. But you know what…

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28.04.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – 28th April, 2017

We’re calling it. Winter is here. We’ve broken out the light knits and switched the office AC from ‘cool’ to ‘heat’. One thing that’s not cooling down (see what I did there) is the always-exciting world of watch news. SIHH and Basel collections are starting to trickle into local markets, and now that the big fairs are out of the way, everyone seems to be getting stuck into the year in earnest. The other important news is that we’ve made the shift from beer to darker spirits for our (now fortnightly) winding down. Chin Chin! What happened Earlier this year…

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28.04.2017

VIDEO: Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser

There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses a grace and charm that belies its large size. This combination makes it one of the go-to statement watches. But did you know that it’s also got the weight of history behind it? A little while ago we chatted with IWC museum curator and general know-it-all David Seyffer for a quick history lesson on the mighty Portugieser.

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27.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Rolex Cellini Moonphase – what it is and why it matters

While the current Rolex Cellini collection will never have the same mass appeal or cool cachet as their ever-popular steel sports models, I think this chic and refined collection is just as important and emblematic to the Big Crown. When they revamped the line in 2014, I was quite taken – with their fluted bezels, interesting dial textures and small complications, the Cellinis spoke to a mid-century tradition of elegance that seemed almost diametrically opposed to the steel sports watches for which the brand is so famous. Three years later and Rolex has added another complication to the family –…

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26.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 stunning pictures of the Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey in King Gold

Editor’s Note: Most of the time the old adage of a picture being worth a thousand words is tired and overused. But sometimes it’s true. This is one of those cases. Sure, my 500-odd words of information and opinion are great and all (pats self on back), but they pale in comparison to the stunning crispness of the photos. Jason has done an incredible job of capturing this mercurial piece. Hublot should probably get some of the credit too, for creating such a downright desirable watch.  If you look at watches on a regular basis (we’re guessing you do), it’s…

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26.04.2017

VIDEO: Top 4 Oris releases of Basel 2017

Oris seem to be going from strength to strength, releasing smart watch designs – like the Divers Sixty-Five – that impress critics and customers alike. This year it’s time for their modern diver, the Aquis, to shine. The entire collection has been revamped – it’s still big and bold, but it’s a little less blocky. Oris also released the Artelier Calibre 113, with loads of calendar complications (though truth be told, we’re still wondering who would use a week indicator), as well as some hot new heritage pieces: the old-school pilot that is the Big Crown 1917 and the funky cushion-cased…

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25.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Lest we forget – an Anzac watch story

Editor’s Note: Few heirlooms have the emotional potency of a watch. They’re objects that accompanied their owners throughout their lives, and bore silent witness to their trials and tribulations. This is especially the case with watches worn by men and women who served, which goes a long way to explaining our fascination with military timepieces. Today Australia and New Zealand commemorate Anzac Day, where we remember those who served and died during war, armed conflict and peacekeeping missions, so we’re sharing a story from last year about an old watch with a story to tell. At first glance this rusty…

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24.04.2017

VIDEO: 4 of the hottest new Seiko releases

One of the brands we’re always excited to see at Baselworld is Seiko. Not just because they’ve always got a few surprises up their sleeve, but also, if we’re honest, because the price point is a lot less painful than some of their Swiss counterparts. This year we were particularly impressed with two models that represent different ends of the Seiko style spectrum. First up is the excellent reissue of the 62MAS, Seiko’s first ever dive watch. And then there’s the flashy, dressy Cocktail Time collection, which is now part of the ever-growing Presage family. No matter what your tastes,…

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24.04.2017

VIDEO: Back to basics – how a mechanical watch works

If you take a keen interest in the world of watches, you’ve likely heard of Carson Chan. Carson works for the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, an organisation dedicated to building knowledge around fine watchmaking. And while we seem to now run into Carson every time we’re in Switzerland, we first met him in Hong Kong, at the last Watches & Wonders fair. We took the opportunity to get Carson to explain, in his calming, erudite tone, just how a mechanical watch works. Now, we’re well aware that the majority of people reading this know their mainsprings from their pallet…

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23.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Masculinity meets romance in the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases

In our recently published interview, Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s Head of Marketing and Communications, said that the Drive represents a different kind of masculinity, one that isn’t defined by “muscles, sport, achievement, performance”, but by “elegance, and style, and refinement.” Looking at the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases, you can see what he means. It’s a confident watch that takes the dressy Drive design and, by adding the eternally romantic moon phase at six, elevates it to the next level of elegance. Introduced at SIHH in stainless steel and pink gold, the Drive Moon Phases took a bit of a back seat to…

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22.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 15 Instagram wristshots that are better than yours (and why)

Editor’s Note: Instagram is all about the selfie, and the watch-oriented sectors of it are no different. Only for the #watchfam it’s less about the perfect duckface and more about the ideal dial shot. So, if you’ve ever wanted more likes than you can comfortably handle, read on.  If you’re feeling brave, type ‘wristies’ into the Google machine, and you’ll be rewarded with an eye-opening array of results. Who knew, for example, that they were a type of fingerless gloves? Fascinating stuff. Those are not the wristies we’re focusing on today – nor will we be broaching any other varieties,…

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21.04.2017

VIDEO: Apples to Apples episode 4, Jaeger-LeCoultre vs Cartier – cutting shapes

If there’s one key take away from this year’s new watch releases, it’s that brands are playing it safe, with simple, round, steel watches being the order of the day. But, thankfully for the non-conformists out there, not everyone marches to the beat of the circular drum. Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre in particular have long and proud histories of making shaped watches. So for the latest episode of Apples to Apples we thought we’d let two of the most recognisable shapes in the business square off against each other. It’s time for the JLC’s mighty Reverso to meet Cartier’s legendary Tank. Who…

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21.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The IWC Pilot’s Chronograph – one of the classics

Editor’s Note: One of the most popular watch types is the steel, black-dialled chronograph. It’s a a versatile, utilitarian classic and almost every brand has their own interpretation of the theme. IWC’s is their perennially popular Pilot’s Chronograph, a mix of military style and casual elegance. It’s an undisputed classic.  If you’ve been paying even marginal attention to IWC over the past seven months you’ll have noticed it’s on a bit of an aviation kick, refreshing the entire Pilot’s family and adding some tantalising novelties like the limited edition ‘Le Petit Prince’ edition of the Big Pilot and the ingenious Timezoner. Impressive…

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20.04.2017

VIDEO: The most important Omega releases from Baselworld 2017

Most of the Basel buzz around Omega has focused on the very excellent (and likely very hard to get) Trilogy limited editions – and rightly so. But these three spot-on reissues represent only a fraction of Omega’s 2017 c0llection, which is jam-packed full of new variants and completely new models appearing across their key collections. Not only do we have new versions of the Speedmaster and a revamped Aqua Terra 150m, but there’s a completely new regular production Railmaster and a particularly bold Planet Ocean that goes by the name of “Big Blue”. In short, there’s something for everybody.

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20.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Is the Oris Divers Sixty-Five 42mm the best heritage reissue of recent times?

Editor’s Note: Last year one of the fiercest inter-office debates was about the perfectly composed heritage piece that is the larger Divers Sixty-Five from Oris. The perennial question was, “bronze or steel?” Andrew was firmly in the bronze camp, I was steel. Read on to find out why.  Story in a second No risk of second-album syndrome here – this slightly larger take on the Divers Sixty-Five is a worthy, if slightly more mainstream, follow-up to the original release. There must be something good in the water at Hölstein, because Oris has been on fire lately. The 100% mechanical brand…

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19.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue” lives up to its name

While one of the key trends of Basel 2017 is a move towards more wrist-friendly dive watches (see exhibits A and B), there’s no doubt that big and bold is still the name of the game. Omega’s latest PO, the “Big Blue”, delivers on both fronts, thanks to its whopping 45.5mm wide by 17.8mm high case made from bright blue ceramic. Why Big Blue? Well, asides from the obvious, it’s an homage to a super funky (and super collectable) Omega diver’s chronograph from the ’70s. This Big Blue follows on from last year’s release of the fully ceramic “Deep Black”,…

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17.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Going back to Cali with the Panerai PAM 629 video review

Much like the state they’re named for, California (or Cali) dials have something inherently cool and playful about them. With their nonchalant mixing of formal Roman and casual Arabic numerals, you just know these watches don’t play by the rules. Which brings us to the Panerai PAM 629, first seen at Watches & Wonders in 2015. This stealthy/sexy watch raised a few eyebrows when it was released, as it was the first time the brand had paired a Cali dial with the sportier Luminor case shape.

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16.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 men’s watches that look incredible on women (and why)

Editor’s note: At Time+Tide we’ve always felt that gendering watches is somewhat pointless and arbitrary. If you like it and you can wear it, that’s all that matters – right? Sure, there won’t be too many fellas out there rocking 28mm diamond-studded Datejusts, and conversely it’s a rare woman who can rock a 50mm+ timepiece. But between these two poles there’s a wide range of ‘men’s’ watches that look the business on a woman’s wrist. We asked Ceri David to hunt down six of the best.  Ever since the female of the species began wearing trousers circa the 1920s, they’ve been…

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14.04.2017

GOOD FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 14th April, 2017 – the Easter edition

Happy Easter everyone. It’s Good Friday down here in Melbourne, so this edition of the Wind Down will be brief, as the office is closed and I’m penning this between nibbles of hot cross bun and wines in the sun. Not a bad way to spend the day at all. Hope your day off is similarly laid-back. What happened We still can’t stop talking about Basel. Aside from our big ‘Best of’ list, we did some wrap-ups of the best Bulgari (super slim) and Grand Seiko (super chunky) releases from the fair. What really mattered Well, the big news is…

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14.04.2017

LIST: Our top 11 watches from Basel 2017, in pictures

Last week we published a video of our top picks from Baselworld 2017. We filmed it in a pretty sleep-deprived state towards the end of the fair, with the thought of dropping a list while the watches were still hot. If you haven’t seen it, we’ve embedded it at the end of this story. (We hope you’ll enjoy a watch-related chuckle at our expense.) But we understand that not everyone has the time or headphones for video. So if you prefer your images still instead of moving, here are our 11 favourites in all their glorious, technicolour detail. Enjoy. Seiko Presage Cocktail…

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14.04.2017

HANDS-ON: A square peg in a round hole – the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

The first Bell & Ross I ever laid my hands on, back in 2008, was the Marine, an uncommon and somewhat unusual beast that took the brand’s trademark dial and transplanted it into a large, 1000m water resistant, tonneau-shaped case that looked like it could handle anything short of being run over by a main battle tank (and even then it’d probably only scratch the case a little). And it turns out that this isn’t the brand’s first foray into the world of hardcore divers (check out the Hydromax). The only issue is that these older models don’t neatly fit…

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13.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: The Aegir CD-2, a dive watch made by… wait for it… an ACTUAL diver

Editor’s note: There’s nothing that watch journos love more than a watch with a story. Marketing departments know this, and try hard (sometimes too hard) to come up with gripping narratives behind their latest and greatest. In all my years of writing about watches, I’ve come across few stories as authentic and compelling as that of Australian micro-brand Aegir Instruments and the man who makes them. Oh, and the watches aren’t too shabby either.   Todd Caldwell, the man behind the brand, is a commercial diver – and the inspiration for Caldwell to go out on a limb and make his own dive watch…

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12.04.2017

VIDEO: 4 of the biggest Grand Seikos released at Baselworld 2017

Grand Seiko had big news at Baselworld 2017 – and not just the epically proportioned (and named) Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s watch. No, the really big news was that for the first time since 1960, Grand Seiko would stand apart as its own brand. It was the logical next step for Japan’s premier watch brand, which only launched globally in 2010 but has been rapidly building boutiques ever since. Aside from changes to brand position, strategy, company structure and all that jazz, for watch fans the major shift is that Grand Seiko watches will no longer read “Seiko/Grand Seiko” on the…

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12.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Our A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds video review

A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is an unusual and very serious watch. The jumping seconds, or deadbeat seconds, is perhaps the most stealth complication out there – most people would assume the ticking seconds hand is powered by a battery rather than intricate gearing. It’s also a complication that’s finally enjoying its day in the sun, with brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz and Grönefeld all releasing their take on this once-obscure complication. Lange’s version adds a regulator-style dial and some classical German good looks. The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Australian pricing The Richard Lange…

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11.04.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: What happens in a Rolex Service Centre? We visited one to find out…

Editor’s Note: Working in watches, one of the most common complaints is poor aftersales support. If you believe every horror story you hear, servicing or returning a watch for any reason can be outrageously expensive, horrendously slow and the result can be of questionable quality. And while it’s best to take these tales with a grain of salt (did you really expect your high end chrono to be as simple and cheap to service as an old Toyota?), the reality is that too many brands overlook the unglamorous service centre in favour of the shiny new boutique. There’s one exception –…

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10.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Panerai’s Midas touch – the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Oro Rosso (PAM 684)

There’s something gloriously, incredibly and fabulously over the top about a solid gold dive watch. It’s the ultimate juxtaposition of functional object and precious ornament, all bundled up in a neat, wrist-optimised package. It’s this contrast that lies at the heart of the PAM 684’s appeal. And make no mistake, this is an incredibly lust-worthy watch. At first glance it looks like a slimmed-down version of the Submersible we know and love – that crown, the matt black ceramic bezel insert, the hardy rubber strap – so far it’s very much what you’d expect from Panerai. But then your brain processes…

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07.04.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 7th April, 2017 – the Basel comedown edition

Forgive us readers for we have sinned. It’s been two weeks since our last Wind Down. But we’re hoping you’ll forgive us as we’ve been a little preoccupied with the cavalcade of new releases that is Baselworld. Well, now we’ve overcome the jetlag and it’s back to business as usual. Which today means making the most of the fading summer sun, with a beer in hand and some very fresh memories to pick through. What happened Honestly we’re still coming down off the Basel high, and getting up to speed with the wider watch world so we’re probably not as well…

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07.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The dark and mysterious Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in platinum

There’s a lot of love in the Time+Tide office for the Slim d’Hermès collection – it’s classic, classy and somewhat free from the Swiss traditionalism that constrains the rest of the fine watch industry. So we’re very happy to see Hermès continuing to expand this relatively young collection, this time with a new platinum-cased perpetual calendar. A perpetual calendar has been part of the family from the beginning. When the Slim was announced in 2015, the rose gold case with silver dial was the complicated heart of the range – a mature take on a traditional function. Structurally this new…

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06.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar

Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hard core of collectors has slipped into the mainstream, and somewhere along the way it became a key pillar in major brands’ release strategies. In 2007 it was very much novelty, now it’s the new normal. Case in point is Patek Philippe’s hero model of 2017 – the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, an undeniably handsome take on a very Patek complication. The 5320G is not a remake of a particular vintage reference (though it does bear a striking resemblance to the ref. 3448); rather it’s a…

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04.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Return of the reasonably sized diver – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 38mm

Dive watches, almost by their very definition, tend to be oversized creatures from the deep. Historically the reasons for the chunky cases and gargantuan proportions were very clear, these watches were pushing the boundaries of what was possible – serious tools for a serious purpose. Somewhere along the way the functionality started driving the aesthetic, to a point where helium escape valves, 100 bar ratings and innovative bezel lock systems were implemented on watches that barely (if ever) saw any bottom time. It was starting to get a little ridiculous. If you wanted a solid timepiece you could swim with…

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04.04.2017

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Classique 7147 gets an enamel update

Last year’s slim Breguet Classique 7147 had a spectacular dial, with a central section in detailed engine-turned guilloche and a subdial in a delicate crosshatch pattern. It was, not to overstate things, the star of the show. It’s a very difficult art to master, but there’s no doubt that Breguet has the technique down pat. So, imagine our surprise when we were presented this year’s update of the 7147 and there was not a hobnail or brushed finish to be seen. In its place is a single piece of lustrous grand feu enamel – an equally tricky technique to master –…

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03.04.2017

HANDS-ON: Seventies style at its best – the Oris Chronoris Date

One watch leapt out at me from Oris’ 2017 collection – the Chronoris Date. Not only is the colour scheme and tonneau case shape pretty eye-catching, but it’s also an honest and authentic homage to the timepieces of the ‘70s. In fact the Chronoris name refers to a 1970 design that was the brand’s first chronograph. This reinterpretation isn’t a chrono, but it’s certainly an era appropriate design.  Given that I’ve got an incredibly soft spot for this sort of fun and funky design (I’ve been wanting an Omega Memomatic for ages, and – until it died – a compressor…

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30.03.2017

HANDS-ON: And now for something completely different – the Hublot Big Bang Rainbow Sapphire

The Hublot booth at Baselworld is a busy place, a multi-level monolith that’s more akin to a mini city than a trade show stand. We spent a few hours there, taking photos, shooting video and generally getting acquainted with the new collection. We had the door of our little room open, and we could hear the constant, polite hubbub that, in a lot of ways, defines Basel. One French phrase made its way repeatedly to our ears – ‘La Rainbow’. Curiosity got the better of us and we asked to see this rainbow everyone was talking about. A few minutes…

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29.03.2017

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR-X1 RS17, inspired by an F1 steering wheel

Two of the most visible trends at Basel 2017 have been bright colours and unusual materials. For their second collection in collaboration with the Renault Sport Formula One team, Bell & Ross’ BR-X1 combines both in one big, bold package. The chassis for this popping Bell & Ross is the large BR X1 case, in lightweight, hi-tech Carbone Forgé. The engine is the same, skeletonised automatic, modular chronograph we’ve seen in previous BR X1 models. But the real winner is the colourful livery. Renault Sport’s yellow is vey much in evidence, in case details and chronograph rockers as well as the thin…

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28.03.2017

VIDEO: 5 Hublot watches that bucked the trends at Baselworld 2017

The dust is settling on Baselworld 2017, and we’re finally able to step back from the excitement and drama to have a bit more of an objective look at the fair as a whole. And it appears that, overwhelmingly, brands have been playing it calm and cautious. Fewer complications than usual were presented, but smartly priced steel watches were the order of the day. It doesn’t look like Hublot got that memo. One of the brands at the heart of the LVMH watch empire had a big, unashamedly bold line up of releases that made for a refreshing change of pace.…

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27.03.2017

VIDEO: Fantastic 4 – the best TAG Heuer watches from Baselworld 2017

TAG Heuer watches are renowned for putting the pedal to the metal – which is appropriate given their motorsports heritage. Having said that, TAG Heuer’s Baselworld 2017 releases have been both diverse and prolific. There’s the heritage hotness of the Autavia, but there’s also the slimmed down and blinged up versions of the aggressively modern and technical modular Carrera. But the real surprise is a completely revamped and reimagined Link – what was once bold and chunky is now sleek and dressy…

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27.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Barely there brilliance – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Some of the most important, exciting watches are those made by watchmakers who push the barriers of what’s possible. The deepest, the most complicated, or in the case of this Bulgari, the thinnest. Bulgari has a proven record when it comes to high-end, ultra thin horology. They hold the record for the thinnest tourbillon and the thinnest minute repeater. Now they can add the thinnest automatic movement to the list. The movement in the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is a mere 2.23mm thick, 0.7mm thinner than Piaget’s legendary 12P. On top of that the whole watch comes in at…

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26.03.2017

NEWS: This beaten-up Tudor Oyster Submariner 7923 is about to sell for more than $100,000 on eBay

Buying vintage watches on Ebay can be a risky business. There’s a lot of sharks and gussied up pieces in those murky waters. But, every so often those incredible barn finds do happen. Like this reference 7923 Tudor Submariner, which at the time of writing has a high bid of $99,999 USD, with 2d 16h to go. Yes you read that number right, a buck below one hundred grand. And to think that the seller originally listed it with a starting price of $3500, and the following sparse (almost poetic) description; The model number is 7923. This is one of the…

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26.03.2017

LIST: The 5 watches we’re arguing most about at Baselworld 2017

Baselworld is a pressure cooker. It’s an intense week full of back-to-back appointments, cramped accommodation and more watches than – if we’re being really honest – is healthy to try and process at once. So it’s only to be expected that Andrew and I have our own instincts about what are the hotties and notties. In fact, sometimes it can get downright frosty in Chez Time+Tide. It’s Saturday evening here, and instead of chilling out we’re getting fired up over a few Feldschlössen and five watches we just can’t see eye to eye on. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller ANDREW: I’m rapt…

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25.03.2017

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2017 Rolex Sky-Dweller in Rolesor 

In the months, weeks and days leading up to Baselworld the speculation around what novelties Rolex would release reached a near fever pitch. Pundits made predictions about what the new Sea-Dweller would look like, and if we’d see extensions added to the Daytona and Yacht-Master family. But no one predicted an updated Sky-Dweller… Originally released in 2012 the Sky-Dweller has always been something of a niche proposition. Highly complex and only offered in precious metals, the dressy Rolex lacked the instant cachet of the Professional series. Well, with the addition of competitively priced Rolesor models (the steel and yellow gold has…

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24.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Return of an icon – the TAG Heuer Autavia

The new Autavia is finally here. Twelve months after TAG Heuer announced the Autavia Cup, an innovative, open design process that allowed fans to have their say on the look of the final product is here, and it’s quite the looker. The Autavia, a portmanteau combination of automobile and aviation, was first released by Jack Heuer in 1962 and was the first chronograph wristwatch with a rotating bezel, a feature that added even more functionality to the already utilitarian watch. And, as is the case with all of Heuer’s chronographs, the identity of the Autavia is inseparable from the world…

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24.03.2017

VIDEO: Tudor’s key Baselworld 2017 releases – 4 ways with the Black Bay

One of the brands we’re always excited to see at Basel is Tudor. They’ve built a reputation for consistently delivering solid, and occasionally surprising watches, and 2017 is no different. We take a look at four new versions of their flagship Black Bay. There’s the simple but upscaled BB41, the blingy BB S&G, the rugged new BB Steel and the complex BB Chrono. If there’s one thing that struck us about the collection as a whole, it’s just how versatile (and enduringly popular) the Black Bay design is.

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24.03.2017

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage 1945

One of the highlights on our Baselworld calendar is seeing what heritage re-release Longines has cooked up, and whoo boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re looking at the Heritage 1945, an absolutely on point interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything right. Funnily enough it’s the exact watch that Sunflowerman illustrated as part of the Watercolour Watch project back in 2015. The 40mm steel case is simple, and not overly fussy, with a flat bezel just the right width and…

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23.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko has just released their first professional diver, the Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m (refs. SBGH255, SBGH257) and we find it intimidating

Seiko’s reputation in the world of professional dive watches is unimpeachable, and a trusty Seiko diver is a staple in any well-rounded collection. But, until now these watches have primarily been made under the Seiko Prospex label. Well, that all changes today with the introduction of the first ever professional-grade diver made under their top tier label, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver. Released in two versions, the regular production black-dialled SBGH255 and the limited edition (of 500) blue-dialled SBGH257 is every inch a professional grade diver: with a large 46.9mm wide and 16.9mm high titanium case, powered…

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23.03.2017

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Spring Drive GMT (ref. SBGC219)

Last year Grand Seiko released a new-look, sporty, modular, ceramic and titanium Spring Drive Chronograph. It was a bold change of pace for the usually buttoned-up brand, and I’ve got to say it both surprised and delighted me. Baselworld 2017 sees the return of this modular approach, in the form of the Black Ceramic Collection – a trifecta of three Spring Drive GMTs. There’s a black dial (SBGC221) and a white dial (SBGC223), but the version that caught our hearts and inspired out minds was the blue and gold SBGC219. Of course this is the limited edition (500 pieces). But…

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23.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko reissue their first ever watch, plus a completely new re-interpretation

Watch brands love nothing more than an anniversary. You might even be forgiven for thinking that marketing departments devote a substantial amount of energy to finding ever more obscure historical events, products or personages to commemorate with a new limited edition. 56 years since the release of our mildly popular chronograph? Reissue. The company founder’s brother got married on this day 132 years ago? Gala event. Jane from accounts is going on long service leave? Commemorative limited edition. Given this bloviating trend it’s refreshing to see no mention of ‘anniversary’ anywhere in Seiko’s press release for the reissue of the original…

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22.03.2017

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel – a rugged new look and a hot date

Tudor has just lifted the lid on the Black Bay Chronograph, and already they’re showingg us another Baselworld 2017 novelty, and surprisingly/unsurprisingly it’s another take on the Black Bay. But rather than offer novel materials or finishes, like last year’s Bronze and Dark version, Tudor has revisited the heart of the collection, and offered another bezel variant to accompany the Red, Blue and Black. Only this time, it’s not a new colour per se, in fact it’s no colour at all. Meet the Black Bay Steel, with its distinctive, and decidedly tool-look radially satin-brushed steel bezel. The observant among you…

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22.03.2017

VIDEO: Omega 1957 Trilogy box set, containing new Speedmaster, Railmaster and Seamaster models

This year marks the 60th anniversary of three of Omega’s most important models: the Speedmaster, Seamaster and Railmaster. The brand is celebrating by releasing a frankly epic trio of limited edition reissues, available individually, or in this ‘1957 Trilogy’ box set. No word yet on pricing or availability. While we don’t have much in the way of technical detail at yet, first impressions are very positive. The only noticable difference between these new versions and the original models seems to be the coloured luminous material. To see just how good, and faithful, they are, have a look at the new…

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20.03.2017

BASEL BUILDUP: 1 day to go. Patek Philippe’s World Time Chronograph proves that you don’t always need hype…

BASEL BUILDUP: We’re about to enter the single most-hyped week of the watch calendar. Every brand is bringing the full weight of their marketing arsenal to bear. Ambassadors, VVIPs, glitz and glamour – Baselworld has it all. But not every brand plays this game. Take Patek and the technical virtuosity that is the World Time Chronograph 5930G  for example, a watch that arrived with virtually no fanfare aside from the ringing in the ears we experienced when we first saw it… Last year Patek Philippe’s showstopper Basel release was the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Perhaps the most notable feature of Patek’s…

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18.03.2017

INTRODUCING: The Longines Conquest VHP – very precise, very cool

We don’t talk much about quartz here at Time+Tide, and that’s usually for a good reason. Most quartz watches are pretty boring. There are, however, some exceptional quartz technologies out there, and the just-announced Longines Conquest VHP is a great example of this. VHP stands for Very High Precision and it is, believe it or not, a reissue of a model originally released in 1984, when ultra-accurate quartz represented one of the watch world’s great frontiers. As you’d expect from a watch with precision in the name (albeit in acronym form), accuracy is a key feature. The Conquest VHP boasts a…

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17.03.2017

INTRODUCING: See the world as never before with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time

Not content to wow us with an exceptionally assured and complex SIHH collection, Vacheron Constantin have just announced their latest, highly limited (like, 10 pieces limited) version of the Traditionnelle World Time, originally shown in 2011. First of all, this 42.5mm Traditionelle is cased in platinum. Most of the time that’s special enough, but in this instance the heavy metal pales in comparison to the enamel dial. Comprised of three overlapping discs, the dial of the World Time is already a complex beast, but it’s elevated even more through the use of opaque and grisaille enamel techniques. At the centre…

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17.03.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 16th March, 2017

Schedules are printed. Bags are packed. Passports located. We. Are. Ready. For. Baselworld. Next time we Wind Down, it’ll be over a frosty Feldschlössen (our Basel beer of choice) and there’ll be pretzel crumbs all over the place. What happened Horological marketing departments are a fairly conservative bunch on the whole, because luxury watches are, apparently, a serious business. It seems that Corum are the exception that proves the rule. This video for their 2017 collection is, hands down the best watch ad we’ve seen in a long time. Corum marketing team, we salute you, completely laughable (watch the video) Bubble Earth/Sun/Eye watch,…

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17.03.2017

BREAKING: This is the latest Swiss Smart Watch – the Montblanc Summit

Meet the latest surprise entrant in the luxury Swiss smart watch sector – the Montblanc Summit. Yes, you read that right, Montblanc. Outgoing CEO Jérôme Lambert has just released details of the Summit, a fully fledged smart watch, with a 46mm case, and (in a first for the connected sector) a curved sapphire touchscreen. The looks of the summit draw strongly from the popular 1858 collection, Lambert says “we wanted to bring a one-of-a-kind vintage design expression into this new product category to inspire the younger generation who appreciates the vintage look”, which is quite a novel approach. Not only…

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16.03.2017

VIDEO: Piaget 2017 collection overview proves thin is still in

Piaget’s pioneering Altiplano has been impressing since 1957, and given that watch brands love nothing more than an anniversary, we were expecting plenty of that barely-there silhouette in the collection at SIHH. And that’s fair enough, when you consider that, 60 years on, mechanical watches still don’t come any slimmer than the Altiplano. Even so, we weren’t quite prepared for just how stunning the new special editions are, with colourful, shimmering dials that really blew us away. Oh, and Piaget also snuck in a stealthy new black Polo S as well. The only question remaining is, would I rock this diamond-encrusted tourbillon?    

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15.03.2017

VIDEO: Oris take to the skies in the loudest, fastest video we’ve ever made

Ladies and gentleman, if we could please have your attention during our pre-flight safety demonstration. Our pilots today are Skip Stewart and Jurgis Kairys. During our three-minute flight you will experience some turbulence, along with dizzying aerobatics, death-defying stunts and extreme speed, so we advise you to familiarise yourself with the brace position. If you have any concerns about your heart rate, please consult the pulsometer on the Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service II. We’ll be departing from Avalon Airshow – the most significant event on the Australian aviation calendar – in the safe hands of Oris, who have a proven track…

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13.03.2017

VIDEO: Vacheron Constantin 2017 collection – the most complicated of SIHH

Vacheron Constantin bucked the trend this year at SIHH. While many of their fellow exhibitors played it safe, bringing out crowd-pleasing steel models and revisiting their greatest hits, Vacheron Constantin walked another path, with a collection focused at the very highest end of horology. Not only did they offer mind-numbingly complex astronomical grand complication and a grand sonnerie model, they also offered some sculptural (yet still super complex) Métiers d’Art options. Oh, and they threw in some handsome new takes on existing models for good measure. Definitely not playing it safe.

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11.03.2017

IN-DEPTH: My month-long affair with the Apple Watch Edition Series 2

Mechanical watches are very important to me. Not only are they the way I earn my living, they’re also a real passion. So it was with a sense of very real unease that I prepared for this review. Not because I have a fundamental aversion to quartz, connected or smart devices, but because I was concerned, deep down, that what the Apple Watch offered might be more compelling to me than the bridges and barrels I love so much. You see, while I’ve been a ‘watch guy’ for the past decade or so, I’ve been an ‘apple guy’ for far, far longer.…

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10.03.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th March, 2017

If we’re completely honest, there’s not a lot of winding down going on today at Time+Tide. It’s more of a Friday gear up, really. We’re up to our necks in pre-Basel press releases, schedules and the administrivia that is part and parcel of this sort of venture. So, when we do pop the top off a frosty brew, it’ll be more in the ‘well-earned’ vein than the ‘lazy-Friday-in-the-sun’ vibe. But enough about us, on to the news! What happened Eagle-eyed Andy Green spotted (because that’s what he does) a PuristsPro post showing a Hodinkee X Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache up for sale.…

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10.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Return of a legend – the Halios Puck II

Over the years, I’ve worn many (many) watches for review purposes, and to be honest it’s rare that I’m still thinking about that watch months or years after the fact. The Puck, from Canadian micro-brand Halios, is one of the rare exceptions. I wrote up the DLC version of the original Puck over on Hodinkee, way back in 2013 and it’s been stuck in my head ever since. So when I noticed some early renders of the Puck II on Instagram last year, I immediately contacted Jason Lim, founder of Halios, to get my hands on it ASAP (for purely impartial review…

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09.03.2017

VIDEO: Girard-Perregaux 2017 collection – the biggest controversy at SIHH?

While the watches at SIHH change every year, one thing stays reassuringly the same, and that is the drama surrounding them. Sometimes it’s big, like the deregulation of the Swiss Franc. Sometimes it’s small, like a brand being a little too obsfucatory in a press release over the origins of a movement. This year everyone’s tongues seemed to be wagging about a) Moser’s cheesy take on the industry, and b) the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. Feel free to disagree with us, but we think the majority of noise around the Laureato –  specifically around its look and legitimacy – is well and truly blown…

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08.03.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Absolute harmony – the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

Editor’s Note: I don’t know what you’re watching at the moment, but in between bingeing on Gilmore Girls and Black Mirror I’ve been voraciously consuming Abstract: The Art of Design, a Netflix documentary series showcasing exceptional designers. As you’d expect from the subject matter and the production values, it’s very pretty viewing. I might go so far as to say it’s almost too perfect. Regardless, my first instinct was obviously to compare the values and theory applied to art, architecture and objects in the series to watches. And one I kept coming back to was this beautifully simple Saxonia from A. Lange & Söhne. …

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06.03.2017

VIDEO: Ulysse Nardin 2017 collection overview and their impressive SIHH debut

Le Locle-based Ulysse Nardin made their debut showing at SIHH this year, and we have to say, they brought the heat. We’re used to brands showing us one or two major novelties, but it’s safe to say UN went far beyond that. From technical tourbillons and regatta timers through to stunning dress pieces, vintage reissues and haute horlogerie wonders, the scale and substance of Ulysse Nardin’s offering meant their booth had a real buzz. What does this mean for Australian watch fans? Well, expect to see and hear a whole lot more about UN in the coming months as the brand…

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03.03.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 3rd March, 2017

It’s been a mildly epic week here at T+T HQ. We’ve had a full plate of videography, airshow action with Oris (we’re now investigating options around leasing a Pilatus private jet – don’t tell our accountant), and Felix is becoming worryingly attached to the Apple Watch he’s reviewing. On top of all this, the logisitical nightmare that is our Baselworld 2017 schedule continues apace. Basically, we’ve earned our Friday knock-off drinks this week. Now if only we had a space-age flask to pour our booze out of… What happened? It’s really good to see one of the biggest names in independent horology, Urwerk,…

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03.03.2017

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with the Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition II, live from the Avalon airshow

When it comes to partnerships, there are a few routes watch brands typically embark on. There’s the celebrity ambassador, which is often little more than name awareness and a few key appearances. Then there’s the high-profile event tie-in, which usually results in a limited edition with a few dial tweaks. And there’s the organisational partnership, which, in its best form results in two like-minded parties creating something that benefits all involved. It’s this last model that Oris tends to opt for, and they do it well. Oris Australia has a strong track record in supporting charitable organisations, notably their work around…

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02.03.2017

HANDS-ON: Three colours Piaget – the 60th anniversary Altiplano in blue, green and grey

This year Piaget celebrates 60 years of the ground-breaking Altiplano. Released in 1957, the original model was the perfect vehicle for the revolutionary 2mm thin 9P, which went on to become the gold standard for reliable, elegant, ultra-thin movements. Over the decades, there’s been a clear evolution of the Altiplano (which was named after a high-altitude plateau in the Andes, by the way). Key releases include the 1960 automatic version (calibre 12P), and in 2013 the 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring 3.65mm, followed two years later by the Altiplano Chronograph which added complication to the equation while still measuring in at…

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01.03.2017

VIDEO: Baume & Mercier 2017 collection overview and their athletic new shape

Anyone who’s followed the SIHH 2017 releases will have noticed a few clear trends emerging – more entry level options, more yellow gold, that sort of thing. One trend that wasn’t as remarked upon in all the excitement of the fair was the way several brands made significant changes to their marketing and identity. Baume & Mercier is a case in point. Over the past few years they’ve invested time and effort into building their image as a brand with a long and proud heritage, and their product releases – particularly in the Clifton and Capeland collections – reflected this history. All that…

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28.02.2017

LIST: 5 standout Rolexes worn at the 89th Academy Awards (which they just happen to sponsor)

The 89th Acadamy Awards will go down in history as one of the more infamous Oscars, largely due to the La La Land/Moonlight mix-up, but also because of the strong political undertones (ACLU ribbons were the accessory of choice). For watch people, though, the 2017 awards will be remembered as the year the Academy was first sponsored by Rolex. The Swiss giant chose to mark the occasion by airing a 60-second celebration of cinema, seamlessly showcasing some of Hollywood’s biggest names wearing their iconic watches. Of course, that showreel wasn’t the only Rolex-gazing opportunity. Here are five of our favourites, spotted roaming free…

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25.02.2017

VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre 2017 collection overview (including the watch that knocked us both out)

Jaeger-LeCoultre did everything right at SIHH. Their collection surprised and delighted in equal measure with a little something for everyone, from high-end tourbillons to fresh takes on the feminine Rendez-Vous, and sexy new variants of old favourites (we’re looking at you, black and pink gold Master Compressor). But it was the trio of watches comprising the refreshed Master range that really stole the show. That’s not just thanks to their undeniably handsome looks, but also their smart pricing, and the fact JLC seems willing to listen to what consumers want, and offer an on-trend addition to their typically timeless fare. The only…

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24.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 24th February, 2017 – the recommended reading edition

It’s easy to get caught up in this whole 24-hour news cycle thing. Every five seconds there seems to be a new story/scandal/watch, and sometimes it all gets a little too much. That’s why, for today’s Wind Down, we’re trying to actually live up to the name. So, close your work email, divert your phone to voicemail and take 10 minutes to peruse our recommended reading list. What happened A bunch of brands announced pre-Basel releases, sponsorship deals and the like. But that’s not what we’re about today. What really mattered Too many otherwise serious watch guys dismiss Alain Silberstein. Sure, his designs are an…

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23.02.2017

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel collection – 4 new looks for last year’s surprise hit, starting at $1800

If you’re into watches and haven’t heard about the Presage Chronograph from Seiko, we’re sorry to be the ones to tell you, but you’ve been living under a rock. It was, without doubt, the winning curveball of 2016, and for good reason. It ticked all the boxes: pedigree, style, mechanics, value and an incredibly handsome dial. The only problem is that it was a limited edition. Well, that’s not the case with the four new regular production additions to the Presage line, still based on Seiko’s historical ‘Laurel’ model, and all featuring lustrous hand-fired enamel dials and classic style, replete with Roman…

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21.02.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: Omega does some heavy lifting with the Globemaster Annual Calendar

Editor’s Note: With Baselworld just around the corner we can’t help but wonder if Omega will treat us to some more thrills (hopefully not spills) courtesy of the Globemaster. The first version of this retro-ish watch exploded onto wrists in 2015 to very near universal acclaim, followed in 2016 by this much more polarising Annual Calendar. So, where could Omega take the Globemaster in 2017? New complications, sizes or materials? We don’t know, but it’s fun to speculate. Until then, take a few minutes to bask in the glory of these stunning shots of the controversial watch.  Story in a second Omega adds an…

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21.02.2017

VIDEO: Cartier 2017 collection overview and the ‘perfect’ Drive

Between you and me, we were pretty happy with Cartier’s SIHH 2017 collection. And no, not just because the re-release of the Panthère gives us carte blanche to post this picture of Pierce Brosnan in his ’80s prime: No, it’s because we’re all big fans of the Drive, and the powers that be in Cartier’s product development team saw fit to bless us with two very handsome new versions – one with a moon phase, and an extra-flat version that is, in our not-so-humble opinion, stripped-back perfection. Our only problem with it? The lack of a steel version. Let’s just…

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20.02.2017

HANDS-ON: Retro Rado – the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616

When our good friend Justin Mastine-Frost was assembling his lists of last year’s best watches at various budgets, one entry in the 3-4k category sprung out – the Hyperchrome 1616. And no, not just because of how huge it is. The reason it stood out is because it challenges many of the stereotypes and preconceptions about Rado watches. When I think Rado, I immediately visualise sleek, thin cases, instantly recognisable thanks to the opalescent sheen of ceramic. Well, the 1616 is none of those things, but that doesn’t mean it’s not Rado to the core. You don’t have to be an expert to realise…

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17.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 17th February, 2017

Some weeks, the Wind Down is full of momentous news and calamitous happenings. Brands being sold, records broken – that sort of thing. This is not one of those weeks. We’re in the eye of the SIHH/Baselworld storm, and, on the surface at least, everything is calm. At this point we’re going to get all choose-your-own-adventure on you. Do you a: Enjoy this moment of peace, and pour yourself something light and sparkly? Or do you b: Hunker down in the corner with a tankard of foul-smelling swill and mutter cantankerously about ‘trouble-a-brewin’ in a thick rural accent. Either way, read…

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17.02.2017

VIDEO: Montblanc 2017 collection overview and our verdict on the new Timewalker

Over the past few years we’ve come to depend on Montblanc for their faultless heritage-inspired reissues and ‘real world’ pricing structure, so imagine the surprise on our faces when we caught our first glimpse of their 2017 line up. Sure, there were still plenty of Heritage Chronométrie pieces and new 4810 models, but the real star of the show was the completely re-imagined Timewalker. In the video, Andrew and I discuss the pros and cons of the brand’s new, automotive direction and while we didn’t quite see eye-to-eye on the on the Timewalker, we could both very much get behind…

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15.02.2017

VIDEO: Why I love my watch – with RedBar founder Adam Craniotes

If you like watches (you do) and exist in a digital age (also affirmative) there’s a good chance you’ve encountered the garrulous Adam Craniotes – heck you might have even seen his tour of NYC. And if you’ve come across @Craniotes, you’ve probably heard the story of his IWC Perpetual Calendar, and how he had to borrow cash off his mum to get it, and the Delilah-esque toll she exacted. (We’re not going to tell you that story, but you can read up on it here if you like.) On this occasion, we asked Adam to tell us about his Jaeger-LeCoultre Master…

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15.02.2017

VIDEO: Panerai 2017 collection overview and our 3 favourites *post may contain traces of bronze*

Panerai kicked off 2017 with a bang. The brand that artfully bolts together ‘Italian design and Swiss precision’ showed a cohesive range with a strong material focus at SIHH in January. At the collection’s core was the mighty Luminor Submersible in many shapes and sizes. Andrew and I picked our three favourite takes on this diver’s diver, and it quickly became clear just how versatile the Submersible is: from dressy to everyday to downright lustworthy. All that’s needed is a change of case metal and a new dial. The only question is, which watch wouldn’t Andrew shut up about?

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14.02.2017

HANDS-ON: Reach for the skies with the Oris Pro-Pilot Big Crown Day Date

For a few weeks in March, Avalon (part-way between Melbourne and Geelong) will become one of the busiest air spaces in the country. The normally sleepy airport will be transformed when state-of-the-art planes including the gigantic RAF Atlas airlifter and the F-35 Joint Strike Fighter (in its first Australian sighting), will thunder down from the skies. The reason, of course, is the bi-annual Avalon airshow, the world’s third largest aviation trade show, and if you’re in the market for a private jet or just looking to stock up on heat-seeking missiles, no doubt it’s already in the diary. We’ll be there for a…

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10.02.2017

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th February, 2017 – the money edition

For those of our readers who don’t live in Australia, have a quick look at the below heat map. Bet you didn’t know heat maps went up to purple did you? Well, they do, and what that means is that we’re currently sheltering in the cooling AC of the office, and dreading the blisteringly hot commute home. So, those are our problems. You know what makes things better? Money. Well, not really. Happiness, friends and family are probably a safer long-term but, then again, you can buy watches with money. On that note, Happy Wind Down! What happened? So, it’s a…

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10.02.2017

HANDS-ON: A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date

We’re willing to bet that when you think of Breguet, the first thing that comes to mind is slim elegance, or maybe the old-world charm of their vintage chronos. But a casual/luxury sports watch? Not so much. Nevertheless, that’s exactly what the Marine 5817 is – Breguet’s take on a breezy weekender. Sure, it’s got all the brand’s classic hallmarks; the fluted middle case, the very particular lugs and, of course, that guilloche dial. But this is no delicate dandy. Water resistance is solid at 100m, there’s lume, the crown is protected by some unique, curved crown guard and it…

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09.02.2017

HANDS-ON: The appeal of Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire is crystal clear

When Hublot released two takes on sapphire Big Bangs last year – the Unico Sapphire and the All Black version – we suspected that wouldn’t be the last we’d see of the clear case material. Lo and behold, our hunch has proved correct with the release of the Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire. Compared to 2016’s white-on-white and jet black limited editions, the Magic Sapphire feels far less ghostly and much more tangible. This is largely down to the smart design. By using their ‘Black Magic’ visual style with its contrasting elements, such as the black strap and texture-heavy dial with…

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08.02.2017

INTRODUCING: Bell & Ross meets brutalism with the BR 03-92 Horolum

Bell & Ross’s latest take on its classic square draws inspiration not just from aviation, but also – far less predictably – from the realms of art and architecture. The BR 03-92 Horulum is a monochrome monolith of a watch, a 42mm bead-blasted case with matching sandwich dial and complementary pale green C3 Superluminova hands and markings. On this occasion, the aeronautical tie-in isn’t quite what you might expect. It’s not a tribute to the latest generation strike fighter or specialised avionics instrumentation. No, Bell & Ross has gone for something far more down-to-earth this time around: the humble tarmac. The matt grey colour is…

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07.02.2017

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 of Tudor’s most important technical achievements (and a couple of Basel 2017 predictions for good measure)

Editor’s Note: Baselworld 2017 is just around the corner, which means our overactive imaginations have kicked into hyperdrive, imagining what new forms of wrist candy the brands will be dropping on us. At the forefront of our speculations are Tudor, who always play their cards close to their chest when it comes to new releases – which only makes us speculate harder. Currently our hot tips include a ‘right handed’ version of the Pelagos LHD (pretty likely), a bronze Black Bay in a new colourway (somewhat likely) and a Pelagos dive alarm (unlikely – but how awesome would it be). Of course, we could be on…

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