Time and Tide Watches

Australian Watch Authority

Felix Scholz
Felix Scholz

Posts by Felix:

30.10.2019

Well-sized and very stylish, the Bremont Supermarine S301

Editor’s note: An attractive neo-vintage diver is a de rigueur part of any self-respecting watch brand’s lineup in 2019, and Bremont is no different. In fact, these days the brand has a few offerings in their stable. And one of the first options out of the gate was the handsome Supermarine S301 …  Bremont is a brand fuelled by avgas and the spirit of Icarus. The fledgling British brand has their roots in the sky, as it were. But that doesn’t mean they’ve neglected other spheres of influence, including motorsports and, as we can see here, diving. The Supermarine (even…

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28.10.2019

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire

The partnership between Swiss watchmaker Hublot and Italian car marque Ferrari has resulted in some very interesting watches indeed, and I think it should be ranked as one of the most genuinely interesting design partnerships in watches. And while the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT, with its dangerous curves, was one of the real highlight releases of this year (in King Gold, please!), it was far from the only one.  This big fella — one of a trio celebrating Scuderia Ferrari’s 90th anniversary (and called, appropriately enough, the Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire) — is a classic Hublot. We’re talking about…

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26.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The World Economic Forum of the vintage watch market

The handful of BIG Rolex collectors meet-ups around the world represent the sanctum sanctorum of the vintage watch world, secretive affairs (which is sensible, given the dollar value of watches on the table) that offer a glimpse not just into the ultra-rarefied, and slightly odd, world of very high-end watch collecting, but also where the market is going. So this outsider’s perspective, from GQ’s Cam Wolf, is a very interesting take on the phenomenon, and the aforementioned World Economic Forum comparison is apt (a little too apt for my tastes). Perhaps ironically, a bunch of dudes obsessed with time-keeping devices…

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25.10.2019

Have watch will travel – 5 GMTs under $5K that are ready to hit the road

Watches with complications — like the chronograph, moonphase or, in this case, the GMT — are less about practical function and more about possibility. Sure, these watches are designed to excel on the road (or in the air for that matter), but for most wearers, that is an infrequent reality. Still, the possibility of far-off places is enough for many people to fall in love with the GMT complication. It’s also a complication that doesn’t have to break the bank, something these five watches can attest to.  Grand Seiko SBGN003   You can make a strong case for this plucky Grand…

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25.10.2019

Hard stone and heavy metal come together for what might be the coolest Zenith El Primero yet

Imagine, if you will, that you’re a watch fan in the 1990s or even early 2000s. Through some incredible new complication (I suspect Urwerk’s invention), you’re jumped forward in time to 2019. While some things remain the same, the changes are pretty incredible. Take, for example, this watch. It’s a one-off piece made by Zenith, designed by Phillips (in association with Bacs & Russo). Not only is the thought of an auction house designing a unique watch — which they’ll then sell (for charity) at their Geneva Watch Auction X next month — kind of bonkers, but it’s also amazing just how…

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22.10.2019

VIDEO: A song of fire and ice – Grand Seiko’s SBGH269 and SBGR319

There’s a tension and drama in Grand Seiko’s dial work that is … compelling. Colours, textures, patterns: Japan’s premier watchmaking brand offers it all. Two exciting new limited editions that demonstrate this point are SBGH269 and SBGR319. The former is an attention-seeking stunner, with an incredibly rich and vibrant red dial. The inspiration for this lush, textured dial is very Grand Seiko — the hues of autumn leaves in the Japanese mountains. SBGR319 is a bit of a different beast — a regular, rather than high-beat movement made for the Asian market, its dial is frosty white, bisected with seemingly…

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21.10.2019

VIDEO: The latest Omega Trésor is the perfect dressed-down dress watch

You might have missed the slick new updates to Omega’s dressy Trésor line amidst the cavalcade of Speedmaster and Seamaster releases this year but, trust me, they’re worth closer inspection. For one thing, steel joins the family this year, across a few versions. Of particular note is this gorgeous bleu number. Not only is the 40mm steel case an exercise in classic, everyday style of the old school variety, with a slender case and truly top-notch mechanical movement, but the dial is something else. For starters, the thin, long hands and hour markers are timeless. And then there’s the dial…

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20.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator

If you’ve been around watches for more than a few years there’s a decent chance you’re familiar with the watch designs of Alain Silberstein. They’re bold, bright and very much of their time — crazy shapes and primary colours that go to show that Bauhaus design is far from boring. It’s minimalism, but in the most maximal way imaginable. Silberstein had his own eponymous brand, which is no more, but thankfully he’s still involved in the world of watches — he was one of MB&F’s friends a few years ago and now he’s popped up in this cool, colourful collaboration with…

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19.10.2019

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point

Editor’s note: Razor-sharp details, timeless style and a solid new movement make the Baume & Mercier Baumatic an excellent option for an everyday dress watch that doesn’t break the bank.  The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume & Mercier were at their best when they were playing with the classics. The Clifton, with its classical proportions, vintage inspiration and strong value offering, is a proposition that was hard to beat. But beat it they did, with the deceptively simple Clifton Baumatic, and…

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19.10.2019

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

It will surprise precisely no one to learn that round watches are the most popular category. But, versatile as the circle is, the round watch can be a bit same-samey. That’s not an issue with this fancy pair of Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Dates, offered in some stylish new dial variations. Before we get to the dials, let’s check in on the watches themselves. They’re 40mm steel watches, in a very ’70s ‘television’ case shape which looks funky and wears great. They’re chronographs (obviously), and 4Hz column-wheel flybacks at that. With a very nice 70 hours of power reserve…

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18.10.2019

NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne

Vacheron Constantin is one of the grand dames of Genevan watchmaking — tracing their lineage and continuous operation back to 1755, or 260-odd years.  Shortly after Vacheron Constantin’s founding, Captain Cook set sail for Australian shores, claiming it as British sovereign territory in 1770. It took Vacheron Constantin a little longer to make its way down under. In 1881, Australian astronomer William Ernest Cooke commissioned a pocket watch. Fast forward to 2019, and the brand has finally opened its own doors, in the heart of Melbourne’s prestigious Collins Street, giving Australian connoisseurs greater access than ever before to one of…

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Baselworld bought 17.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A deep dive into the future of Baselworld

Whether you’re an inveterate watch tragic, or just starting on your watch journey, the last year has been dominated by two main conversations. The drought of steel sports models (sorry guys, I got no answers for you on that one), and the future of Baselworld.  Now, if you’re coming in cold on the concept of Baselworld, it’s fundamentally a trade show. But a trade show like no other. For a sense of what it’s like, check out this video. Or rather, what it was like. Because Baselworld has been going through some tough times recently. Broadly speaking, there’s a range…

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15.10.2019

Crazy love – Franck Muller’s Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours in blue tones

Often we talk about emblematic or iconic models or shapes in a brand’s line-up, such as Franck Muller, with their distinctive Curvex line. Less often do we talk about a brand’s trademark complication, as it is much less likely that a brand has such a strong association or identity with a particular function, but again that’s something that Franck Muller can lay claim to, with their Crazy Hours.  The Crazy Hours complication, the invention of the eponymous watchmaker, was born in 2003. It’s as ingenious as it is simple. The complication consists of a regular automatic movement with a jump…

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15.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game

Nicholas Foulkes is an author, journalist and perhaps the closest thing the 21st century has to a genuine flâneur. He’s also deeply entrenched in the finer workings of the finer elements of the Swiss watch industry, so when he writes, it’s worth reading. His latest column in the Financial Times’ excellently titled ‘How to Spend It’ sees Foulkes focus his lens on independent watchmaking, which is a bit of an industry-specific term referring specifically to lower production, artisanal brands (after all, Rolex is technically an independent brand). As Foulkes explains, it’s a segment of the industry that’s heating up on…

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TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector's Edition 14.10.2019

Panda-monium! 8 panda-dialled chronographs for all your high-contrast sporty needs

Maybe I’m going colourblind or maybe it’s becoming more prevalent – either way, I’m spotting more and more panda dials out there on wrists. Actually, who am I trying to kid — it’s definitely a trend, a flow-on from the overwhelming vintage onslaught that has dominated watch design over the last decade or so. In case you’re not au fait with the nomenclature, a panda dial refers to a white dial with black sub-dials resembling, you know, a panda.  With that in mind, here are eight of the best … The Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN Yeah, we had to include this.…

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14.10.2019

HANDS-ON: Omega hit another home run with the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph

We knew it was coming. To paraphrase former PM Paul Keating, this is the upgrade we had to have. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. But before we dive into (sorry, can’t help it) what makes this watch special, a quick update for those not up to date with the news from Biel. Last year, at what would be their last Baselworld, Omega announced a major upgrade to the (genuinely) iconic Seamaster Diver 300M, AKA the James Bond watch, with an evolved, refined case, a new dial and a host of other crowd-pleasing bells and whistles. For me this watch…

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13.10.2019

What we’d wear if we could wear only one watch brand for the rest of our lives … 

I know, it’s a horrible prospect, and one that we don’t really want to seriously consider, but you know what, it makes an excellent proposition for a hypothetical, something that flies around the office a fair bit. Only this time, I took some notes … Nick’s choice – Cartier Why? Cartier looks good in any situation, and they’ve got a very consistent design language. On top of that, the brand has an incredible amount of history, and the depth and variety that comes with that. And for me that means I’m confident that there’s a Cartier out there that suits…

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12.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Just what is the Patek Philippe Seal? 

There are few things that high-end watch brands love more than a certification of quality. Some, like COSC, are industry-wide standards, while others (much like the movement) are strictly an in-house affair. The Patek Philippe Seal is one such certification.  The new Patek Philippe Seal dramatically transcends the original hallmark’s notion of quality and perfection. First of all, it applies to the completely assembled mechanical watch as delivered to its owner; moreover it covers both functional and aesthetic aspects. This article, from The Hour Glass, gives a solid overview of the Seal, and how it differs from the Geneva Seal…

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12.10.2019

The heritage heavy hitters – 10 of 2019’s best vintage reissues

Every year in watchland we’re treated to a fresh crop of heritage reissues — modern interpretations of designs of yore. It’s a market category that’s grown from a niche inclusion intended to appease the hardcore collectors to a major pillar in many brand catalogues. And while the year is not over yet, we’re pretty confident calling the below 10 the best heritage reissues from 2019. Heads-up, expect a lot of automatic chronographs in this list …  Blancpain Air Command Yep, we did not see this one coming. Dive watches, yes (more on that below), but a pitch-perfect take on an…

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11.10.2019

VIDEO: Blancpain’s Villeret GMT Date ensures elegance, no matter the time zone 

Travel watches are typically seen as a rough-and-ready affair, a style dominated by hardy steel pieces that often seem to speak a language of adventure rather than luxury. But honestly, while this reflects a romanticised notion of travel, the reality, especially at the pointy end, is a much more civilised affair.  If civilised travel is more your speed, you might be interested in this beautiful Blancpain, which brings dual time utility to Villeret’s dressy style. The 40mm red gold case is well-sized, and the double stepped design is sophisticated, as — it must be said — is the movement tech…

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11.10.2019

The epitome of classic watch design – the Rolex Datejust

There’s a lot of discussion out there when it comes to the most recognisable watch design of all time. For many, that design is a Rolex (though personally I think the classic Swatch would give it a solid run for its money). The debate really starts to heat up when you ask the question of what model. Many would argue that the mighty Submariner claims the prize, while I’m of the school of thought that argues the humbler, more utilitarian Datejust deserves the gong.  The Datejust has been around for a long time — it debuted in 1945. What’s amazing,…

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10.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules 

The history of aviation is full of famous planes. For better or worse, planes like the Spirit of St. Louis, the Enola Gay and the Southern Cross are landmark machines in the evolution of the flying machine. But few vehicles loom larger in popular culture (or indeed reality) than the epic H-4 Hercules, popularly known as the Spruce Goose.  With a wingspan measuring an incredible 97.5 metres across, the H-4 Hercules is the largest flying boat ever built, and a result of the passion (some would say obsession) of aviator, engineer, film director and billionaire Howard Hughes. Originally conceived as a…

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09.10.2019

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours

On the face of it, Blancpain’s elegant Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours — or, if you don’t parlez vous, Complete Calendar 8 Days — is exactly the sort of thing you’d expect from the dressier family of one of Switzerland’s old marques. But once you get past the numerous traditional points — the day/month apertures, the smiling moon, that idiosyncratic waving pointer date and double-stepped case — you’ll find a watch that’s much more modern than it first appears.  The great thing about this Blancpain is that the innovations are very under-the-radar, and made with the wearer in mind. The calendar…

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08.10.2019

VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue

The Fifty Fathoms is a stalwart of the dive watch, dating back to 1953. And, as you might expect, the watch has seen a few revisions over the years, including ones like this, that stretch the boundaries of a rough-and-ready tool watch.  Because a 45mm fully gold dive watch is a heck of a flex. On its own the red gold case would be attention-grabbing enough, but add the gorgeous blue ceramic dial and the Fifty Fathoms’ typical glossy sapphire bezel insert and you’ve got a watch that makes a very splashy statement. It’s also serious watchmaking, with an exceptional…

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08.10.2019

IN-DEPTH: The anOrdain Model 2 

The story in a second: The anOrdain Model 2 is an unbelievable dial at an unbelievable price. From where I’m sitting, 2019 has been a fairly quiet year on the watch front, thanks to a more fragmented release schedule than usual and a general sense of reticence on behalf of many big brands to push the boat out in what is euphemistically called a soft luxury market. Which is why the headline-grabbing hits have been few and far between. Don’t get me wrong, I think this is actually a pretty good state of affairs. The generally conservative slate of releases has…

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05.10.2019

IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 

The story in a second: One of the best watch designs of recent times gets complicated.  I know I’m not alone in thinking that the Octo Finissimo family is one of the most important commercial watch designs of the last decade or so. Sure, it’s based on an old Genta design, but the Octo has evolved so far under the careful ministrations of Bulgari’s design team so as to legitimately stand tall on its own merits. It’s a strong design, one that deigns to ape the past and provides a compelling argument for modernity and a versatile platform that looks…

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04.10.2019

Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there

One of the most interesting watch ‘releases’ this year was Panerai’s series of experiential watches. Basically, the brand released a series of watches with a particular focus — diving, exploration, the armed forces — each with an associated ambassador or partner. One release was the regular version of the watch, and the second was a very exclusive limited edition, a twist on the watch that came with the opportunity to take part in an pretty exceptional money-can’t-buy experience.  A few weeks ago, one of these experiences went down in Italy. Owners of the exclusive Marina Militare PAM961 (the less limited…

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04.10.2019

VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077

Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko Laurel. Both watches feature plain dials, with a date at three, Breguet-style Arabic numerals, and well-sized 39.5mm steel case with a super-hard coating. Reference SJE075 is the white dial, which amps up the vintage look, with the distinctive red 12 and blued steel hands, while…

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03.10.2019

VIDEO: The snakelike excellence of the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori

Most of the time we spend talking about Bulgari at the moment is dedicated to the gorgeous Octo, which, if I’m frank, makes perfect sense. But that’s far from the only arrow in Bulgari’s gem-set quiver. On the more feminine side of the fence there’s also the venerable (and not at all venomous) Serpenti, which saw a significant revision at Baselworld this year in the form of the Serpenti Seduttori, billed as a more everyday take on the serpentine icon.  And while it’s the 33mm diamond-shaped head that is the focal point, for me the slinky bracelet is the centrepiece.…

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03.10.2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Chronograph 55th Anniversary — SRQ031J

Some of the coolest and cultiest of vintage Seiko watches are their calibre 5719 monopusher chronographs, released to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics of 1964 (an event for which Seiko were the official timekeepers btw). These watches didn’t look much like a chronograph, with only a single seconds hand and a bidirectional bezel to track elapsed time. They were also (like all chronographs before 1969), manually wound affairs. And while they might have lacked the sort of bells and whistles we expect from a sporty chronograph today, you can’t deny that these angular pieces, with reserved ’60s good looks oozed…

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02.10.2019

The Moser method – smart marketing in a social age with the Pioneer Tour

If you’ve ever picked up a glossy magazine or attended a major sporting event it should come as no surprise to learn that marketing is hugely significant in the world of watches. It’s also hugely expensive, competitive and, all-too-often, dull.  From awkward posed photographs with A-list celebrities, to baffling brand ambassadors and the most tenuous of partnership tie-ins, for the average watch enthusiast the business of marketing these objects in which they invest so much passion can be confronting at best and alienating at worst. But obviously, it’s a strategy that works for many brands. Not all brands have the…

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02.10.2019

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407

The Snowflake looms large in the minds (and on the wrists) of Grand Seiko fans — the 10-year-old titanium watch is an undisputed champion, and deservedly so. But now there’s a phalanx of other Snowflakes in the family – the dial comes with gold highlights and even in dressier cases. But one Snowflake that stands out to us is the SBGA407.  The most obvious standout is the dial, which is somewhat counterintuitive given how subtle it is. The texture is still that same Washi-paper-esque effect that gives that windswept snowdrift effect, but now it’s in a soft blue tint, like…

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01.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Aquadive Poseidon – paying tribute to the golden age of diving

Diving is a pursuit — more than most — that relies on gear. Which is why it’s an area full of storied suppliers that are as much a part of pioneering and evolving diving as the divers themselves. Of course, watch brands fall into this matrix — but they’re a relatively small part of the picture. Suits, breathing apparatus and all the other paraphernalia are equally as important. Which is why this watch, the Aquadive Poseidon GMT, is such a nice celebration of this heritage.  Aquadive, in case you’re not familiar, is one of those old names in dive watches.…

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24.09.2019

VIDEO: The watches of the GPHG are heading to Sydney, and we’d strongly recommend you check them out

We’re heading into awards season for the watch industry, and they don’t come much more glamorous or glitzy than the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which is set to take place in — you guessed it — Geneva on November 7. There are 84 watches vying to be named best in show, and the competition is fierce. Unfortunately for us, the awards are also on the other side of the world, making it a bit of a mission to attend the big night. But your chances of being able to get up close and personal with the year’s best…

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21.09.2019

A different take on the day date – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s

Editor’s note: Blancpain has one of the best dive watch archives around, thanks to the fact that they were one of the primogenitors of the genre, and it’s something they’ve been tapping into with great effect, as Sandra discovered when she checked out the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s …  We’ve come to associate Fifty Fathoms with minimalistic dials, so this Day Date model – one of three new pieces released at Baselworld 2018 to mark the 65th anniversary of the original diving watch – is a real shift in style. This doesn’t mean that Blancpain are suddenly…

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21.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The return of the retailer exclusive watch

In the world of serious vintage watch collecting the presence of a retailer’s name on the dial can make a big difference in terms of price. Turler, Tiffany & Co, Serpico Y Laino, prestigious retailers with great provenance — just the sort of thing that makes an otherwise generic steel sports watch stand out of the pack, and makes the whole watch collecting space such a vibrant one.  But, as brands took control over their own supply chains, it looked like the age of the retailer edition was done and dusted. But it turns out that the age of the…

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20.09.2019

VIDEO: Travel in style with Grand Seiko’s SBGE201 

The travel watch is one of the classic tropes in the world of watch design — and as with all recurring themes, the travel watch is a broad spectrum, ranging from rough and ready all the way up to the private jets and mega-yachts version of travelling in style. The Grand Seiko SBGE201 treads a middle ground. It’s solid steel, but it also possesses enough innate pizzaz to hold its own in more formal situations. This tricky balancing act comes down to the materials Grand Seiko has used, and how they’ve been treated: the steel is hard-wearing and robust, but it’s…

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19.09.2019

VIDEO: 3 watches that prove Montblanc’s Heritage collection is looking to the future 

Ever since Davide Cerrato took the helm at Montblanc’s watch department, it’s as if the turbo-booster was suddenly turned on. The watches, which were solid before, now have a clarity and a cohesion that makes them a strong option and a force to be reckoned with. Case in point, their 2019 heritage releases …  The Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Pulsograph  Montblanc’s Minerva chronographs have a well-earned reputation for being amongst the best in the business, and the one keeping this beauty running is no exception. And in this case the case and dial is more than a match for the movement.…

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18.09.2019

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203

In general, Grand Seiko has a reputation for being somewhat stealthy on the wrist — but, to be honest, that’s not the case with this chunk of finely crafted steel, better known as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC203.  At a sizeable 43.5mm across by 16.1mm tall, this isn’t the sort of watch that slides under the cuff, and even if it did, those oh-so-distinctive chronograph pushers would happily be peeking out, no matter what. But really, this is the sort of watch that you lean into. It’s a big and bold example of Grand Seiko’s best technologies —…

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18.09.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Queer Eye’s Antoni Porowski can’t live without his Omega Constellation 

If you’re into feel-good positivity, then Netflix’s reboot of Queer Eye is likely already on your radar. If it’s not hard to get behind the premise of five (a fab five if you will) experts in their respective fields whipping into people’s lives and making them better.  And of those experts, the guy in charge of food (and beverages for that matter) is Antoni Porowski, who aside from having strong opinions on the constituent ingredients of guacamole and a more than passing resemblance to a clean-living John Mayer, also has nice taste in watches. On the show he’s regularly seen…

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16.09.2019

VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248

Grand Seiko has something of a reputation for finely finished understatement. This watch is, well, a little extra. That’s not to say that the Grand Seiko SBGE248 isn’t as finely finished as you’d expect, it’s just that, thanks to its popping blue and gold colourway, this Grand Seiko isn’t under anyone’s radar.  Which, honestly, is a really good thing, because this watch is pretty exceptional. These sporty Spring Drive GMTs are already well-loved travel watches, thanks to the combination of great build, good looks and a very, very cool movement. But throwing a near-electric blue bezel and shimmering dial and…

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15.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rediscovering how to wear a watch

People who care about watches enough to be able to drop reference numbers and movement names can sometimes forget that for some — even many — the act of wearing a watch at all is a foreign one. The shift away from wrist-based time-telling to using our phones has been a big concern for the watch industry, and the rediscovery of the wrist afforded by devices like the Apple Watch has been one of the big silver linings of that device’s sweeping popularity.  This article, from one of Australia’s largest daily papers — The Age/Sydney Morning Herald — perfectly encapsulates…

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14.09.2019

RECOMMENDED LISTENING: H. Moser’s Edouard Meylan on running a watch brand like a startup 

Two figures who I respect tremendously in their respective fields are H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan and Blamo! host (and man who can rock a soft yellow hat like nobody else) Jeremy Kirkland. So when the two got together on the latest edition of the podcast, I knew it was going to pop.  Even though Edouard Meylan comes from a family with deep roots in watchmaking, his take on running the boutique brand (slash plucky upstart) is far less traditional than you’d expect. Kirkland asks the right questions about taking risks, failure, the American approach to business, and…

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13.09.2019

EVENT: Wheels up with the new Pilot’s collection at IWC’s Melbourne boutique 

Last night, Time+Tide, along with IWC and Kennedy Watches & Jewellery, hosted an intimate gathering at IWC’s Melbourne boutique. And even though it’s officially ticked over to spring, the evening was brisk, so the horological faithful were truly faithful. But once ensconced in the warm, well-lit space, the cold melted away in the presence of some serious watchmaking heat, in the form of IWC’s 2019 Pilot’s collection, which has been a real standout this year.  After some initial opening words from Brand Director Florian Gutsmiedl, Andrew and I did a quick flyover (if you’ll pardon the pun) of the history…

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12.09.2019

“I decided on this one after I saw Pierce Brosnan wear it” – Dimitrios’ Omega Seamaster

The move to put an Omega on James Bond’s wrist in GoldenEye stands as one of the greatest watch marketing moves in the history of watch marketing. Dimitrios was not the first, and certainly won’t be the last person to buy into the brand because of the fictional super spy.  But even if it was Bond that pushed Dimitrios over the edge, the quality of the watch shouldn’t be dismissed. If the SMP was less of a watch, I’m pretty sure that Dimitrios wouldn’t be sitting in front of our camera, waxing lyrical about it. It’s also a watch that’s…

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12.09.2019

Tracing the journey of Rado’s Captain Cook

Up until a few years ago, Rado’s Captain Cook was a rather obscure watch. A stylish skin diver from the middle of last century, a time when many brands (many of whom aren’t around these days) tried their hands at the genre. Rado made Captain Cook watches from 1962 to 1972. After then, the brand shifted its focus to other areas, like absolutely crushing it in the world of high-tech ceramics. But, driven by the powerful winds of the heritage-style revival, the Captain Cook surfaced again, at Baselworld 2017, and over the last few years has become well-regarded by critics…

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11.09.2019

VIDEO: Vintage style done right, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph

Broadly speaking, heritage-inspired watches fall into two significant camps — faithful reissues or modern interpretations. The Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph falls very much into the former camp. And, as far as faithful reissues go, it’s awesome. The big picture is the case, which is a hefty, hunky cushion — bonus points for the smart mix of case finishings, which is something you rarely see on a watch, let alone one at this price point. The dial is also a straight-up smash hit: panda-style, with a retro Tissot logo and charming orange highlights. A domed sapphire tops it off and the…

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11.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 5 and the 3 upgrades that matter 

It’s that time of year again. Apple has unveiled their latest and greatest Watch (as well as some pretty serious new iPhones), which has the unsurprising name of Apple Watch Series 5. And there’s always a lot to unpack with the world’s most popular watch (yeah, I went there). There are small but significant advances, like international support for emergency calls, improvements to navigation and watchOS 6.  But really, for us it comes down to three main points, two of which are pretty obvious, and the third is a small, but substantial change.  The Apple Watch Series 5 now comes…

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10.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE

A few months ago we introduced you to the first in a series of limited edition watches made to celebrate The Hour Glass’s 40th anniversary. Well, we’ve just had a look at the latest in the series, which takes the form of a TAG Heuer Monaco. Now, if this were any other watch it would run the risk of being a touch underwhelming, what with all the 50 years of Monaco celebratory LEs getting dropped this year. But you know what, I don’t think this ‘TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Special Edition’ (to give it its formal, boring name) needs…

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09.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Longines Conquest Classic – a watch for women that lives up to the name

For Longines, elegance is an attitude — and that’s something they’ve embodied very nicely indeed with the new Conquest Classic, a watch made with exceptional women (and exceptional wearability) in mind.  The Longines Conquest Classic is offered in two case sizes — 29.5mm and 34mm — and in diamond or non-diamond options. The case is (for now) steel, and the dial options offer a sweep of stylish options: sunray blue black or silver, as well as mother-of-pearl in black or white.  And while the diamond and the dial colour options tweak the overall vibe of the watch, it’s a tweak,…

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09.09.2019

WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns

As a category, highly paid athletes are known for the occasional BIG flex. Bespoke cars, planes and all the rest are de rigueur for these guys. And, of course, the wristwatch, being both highly visible and highly valuable, is a great example of this. Now, wearing those factory diamonds on your downtime is one thing, but wearing a cool quarter of a million on the wrist while you’re working is something else entirely.  And this is where NFL wide receiver Odell Beckham schools pretty much everyone on how it’s done, wearing a Richard Mille RM 011 on the field for…

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08.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches

These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department.  And while many brands have history in the area, the history is rarely as personal or intimate as it is at Laurent Ferrier. Laurent Ferrier (the watches) are well regarded high-end independent pieces with curvy lines and funky dials. And sure, Laurent Ferrier (the man) is a well regarded maker of high-end independent pieces,…

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07.09.2019

Bulgari is well placed to clean up at the GPHG, thanks to these 5 watches

There’s no doubt that Bulgari like the GPHG. In 2017 they won the men’s category for their Octo Finissimo Automatic and the Tourbillon prize for the Finissimo Skeleton. A few years earlier, in 2014, they took home the Jewellery prize for their Diva High Jewellery Emeralds. Their odds are looking strong for the 2019 edition of the awards too, with five watches shortlisted. Now, it would be crazy for all five watches to win, but much like Katniss Everdeen, we hope the odds are forever in Bulgari’s favour. Mechanical Exception – Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar Let’s kick off…

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06.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel 

Over the years I’ve seen a lot of new chronographs. Some are impressive, and many are ordinary. But few are as hands-down gorgeous as the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache that I first saw at Watches and Wonders in 2015.  With its classical proportions and comely, cow-horn-shaped lugs it was a love-at-first sight affair. However, the platinum case construction and associated six-figure sticker price put it out of the realm of mere mortals. There was a brief glimmer of hope in 2017, when Hodinkee dropped one of their (IMO) hottest limited editions — a steel Cornes de Vache with a slate…

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06.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age

The other day, Phillips announced Phillips PERPETUAL, an always-on showroom of curated horological goodness. Because while blockbuster sales of celebrity pieces have a place, the opportunity for mass volume sales and Phillips, along with the other major auction players is jumping at it. For an in-depth look at the ever-changing business of selling very fine secondary market watches, this piece over at Le Monde Edmond is well worth a read. Twenty years ago, no one was able to buy or sell a fine collector’s watch if it was not via a public platform such as a tradeshow, a dealer or…

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05.09.2019

VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic

In the field of watch design there’s a lot to be said for restraint. Not every dial needs to be flashy, nor every case overwrought. Sometimes, all you need — all you want even — is a watch that looks good (no matter what), and can do anything, or at least anything most normal people would need their watch to do. The Tissot Gentleman is such a watch.  The sober, classically designed case that measures 40mm across, and is neither too dressy nor too casual, sets the tone. That tone is amplified by the lovely dial options — here we’re…

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05.09.2019

Absolute power – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 

Over the last few years the Laureato line has emerged as Girard-Perregaux’s valiant hero — a sporty steel warrior well equipped to win wrists across the world. Earlier this year, at SIHH in Geneva, Girard-Perregaux unleashed their latest expression of the Laureato – the evolved Laureato Absolute.  This darkly clad watch was offered in a trio: time-only, world time and chronograph — we’re going to focus only on the latter today. The case is the familiar Laureato shape, though the material used is titanium, which has been given a black PVD coating — the finishes are a mix of polished…

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04.09.2019

“Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain 

Generally speaking, watch collectors fear three things: brick walls, unforeseen service costs, and the vagaries of international shipping. I’m not sure about points one and two, but Kelvin has certainly come up against the whims of global logistics conglomerates. But, before you get too stressed out, it’s OK – he won! Or got very lucky, depending on how you look at it.  Not to steal Kelvin’s thunder, but this Blancpain L-Evolution, from the late-oughts, was the first watch he fell in love with, and one he eventually bought, years later. Now, at this point it was well-discontinued, so he purchased…

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04.09.2019

HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46

One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t a new phenomenon, but today a properly original watch design is an exception, rather than the rule. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour case is original. I mean, sure, it’s round and sporty, but it is also possessed of a really interesting case, with an inwardly curving profile…

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03.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive 

Presage has been something of a rising star in the Seiko firmament – a classically inspired, dressy collection that has proven to have broad appeal. These two new watches see the Seiko Presage powered by that most Seiko of technologies — the popular and silky smooth Spring Drive technology.  Already the pairing of Presage and precision is an exciting prospect. But there are two other elements of these two boutique-only 40mm steel watches, and that’s the design and the dial. Seiko has evoked the spirit of Japanese design legend Riki Watanabe for the overall look and feel of these watches, working with…

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03.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made 

Much to the chagrin of watch brand marketing departments, the list of timepieces of genuine historical significance is pretty small. Actual moon watches, the Breguet commissioned with Marie Antoinette in mind, and, of course, the works of John Harrison.  Even if you’re not an aficionado of 18th century horological science (and TBH we don’t hold that against you), there’s a decent chance you’re at least somewhat au fait with John Harrison. Heck, the guy even had a TV series made about him starring Michael Gambon and Jeremy Irons — that’s not something you can say about Gérald Genta, no matter…

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03.09.2019

NEWS: The GPHG has announced the full list of finalists for 2019, and we’re pretty excited by these 5 contenders 

Overnight, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève dropped the list of their 84 pre-selected watches, which will be judged within an inch of their lives and presented to an adoring crowd of industry professionals.  You can check the full list over at the GPHG site. There’s a lot to dive into, and quite a few of the categories are a little esoteric or academic. It’s fair to say that there are a few categories that are more popular with punters than others, and in that realm, we’re excited by the following contestants … Chronograph – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  This…

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01.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed

If you’ve been paying attention to the wonderful world of watches for more than 15 minutes, you’ll have worked out that high-tech materials, often with fancy proprietary names, are a big deal. Isographs, Aeronith, Sedna gold, unobtanium and all the rest. This sort of fancy nomenclature is stock-in-trade of Swiss marketing departments, but it’s also important stuff. Innovations like improved alloys, accessible ceramic and silicon technology have had a massive impact on the science of watchmaking, and the sort of watches that are made over the last few decades.  The real exciting thing is that this isn’t a static field,…

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31.08.2019

This is what $2,000,000 of diamond watch looks like – meet the Franck Muller Invisible Setting with rubies

This is not an under-the-radar watch. So if you’re looking for an unassuming dress watch, scroll on. But if you like your timekeeping served with a bit (OK, a lot) of bling, this might be up your alley. But be warned: the price — much like the weight in stones — is hefty. Want to see what it looks like on the wrist? Make sure you check out Andrew’s video with it here.  So, what are we talking here? Well, there’s a tourbillon. Normally that little cage — here shaped like the Franck Muller logo — would be the star of the show,…

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30.08.2019

The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase

We’ve been having a bit of a lunar week with Longines this week — checking out their new Master Moonphase in the boutique and in our studio. And we thought we’d stick with the theme this Friday. Today we’re taking a closer look at the stylish, chic and generally handsome Longines 1832 Moonphase. If the Master Moonphase is a contemporary piece with heritage notes, the 1832 is the other way around: strong, full-bodied heritage overtones with solid underpinnings of modern construction. To me, the whole package exudes old-world charm, but it’s the dial that sings strongest. The dial is beige, with…

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29.08.2019

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar

If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year. Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand change gears a little, steering the complication into more legible territory. Gone is the central hand, with the month indicator now occupying a prominent aperture next to the extant date window at three. The increased legibility certainly adds some visual weight to the right-hand side of…

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29.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light

The headlines this week have been full of Omega’s latest Aqua Terra, the very matt, very lightweight Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The major selling point has been its light weight of 55 grams, a new alloy and its fancy new disappearing crown trick. It’s made with golf in mind, but the potential is more than that. I was pretty excited by this release, until I caught wind of the price, which is just under $50K USD.  Now, sometime T+T writer Justin has written a punchy analysis of this piece (and whether it lives up to the hype and the…

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28.08.2019

“It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998 

Travelling with a watch fan is always a fraught affair. You’re always pulled into random vintage shops or glittering boutiques, in search of the elusive, the rare, or the unique. It’s a lesson that Teesan’s wife learned … It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique … Teesan isn’t new to the watch collecting game (25 years and still going strong, apparently), but it’s still a hard call when you’re suddenly confronted with the object of your lust in a Venetian boutique. Luckily, everything aligned for Teesan, and he walked away with one…

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28.08.2019

4 great watches to prove that dad rocks … just in time for Father’s Day

Earlier in the week we posted a list of worthy Father’s Day gifts, with a strong bent towards straps and accessories that are actually available in the T+T store. Well, today we’re doubling down on the dad, with a handful of watches suited to the father figure in your life.  Grand Seiko 9F86 Quartz GMT  If your dad is anything like mine, all they want is a ‘good watch’ — which is code for something that will do the job (any job really) without needing to be overly precious. If that rings true to you, let me suggest these quartz…

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28.08.2019

New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase

The Master collection has been a staple in Longines’ catalogue for some time, epitomising the sort of casual elegance for which the bramd is so well known. The latest member of this family — the Longines Master Moonphase — continues to offer the strong combination of timeless style and well-integrated small complications that we saw last year with the clever Annual Calendar model. This time around the additional functionality is taking more of a romantic bent — in the form of a moon phase and pointer date combination. Before we dial in on the complication, let’s take a look at…

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27.08.2019

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome

It might surprise you to learn that one of my favourite watches from this year’s SIHH show was the Dazzling Rendez-Vous from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous has been a strong women’s offering for some time, but this Dazzling version really ups the ante. This is thanks largely to that outer ring of 36 diamonds, which dominate the bezel. And while the size and clarity of these rocks is impressive, what really makes them shine is the setting — they use a griffe, or claw-like setting, which shows off much more of the surface of the stones and lets in more light,…

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27.08.2019

We chat to Paxton Wong, the man behind Watchfest, Australia’s first watch convention

It’s somewhat paradoxical, but the explosion of interest in fine timepieces, fuelled by the internet and social media, has also resulted in the increased popularity of offline meetings. And they’ve always been there — before Instagram and Facebook were the prime drivers of the ‘watchfam’, it was the various watch forums, like Timezone and Purists, that resulted in that weird ritual of online-friends-but-offline-strangers meeting in public, and piling lots of watches out onto tables, much to the bemusement of strangers. More recently still, this get together culture has evolved again, thanks to events such as Fratello Watches Speedy Tuesday world…

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best watches on bracelets 24.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The Monta Atlas GMT 

There’s something really appealing about a well-priced travel watch, and the Atlas GMT, from micro brand Monta, certainly fits that bill. If you’re not familiar with Monta, they’re a relatively young brand inspired by the well-priced tool watches of yesteryear and, I’ve got to say, they’ve done a really good job of delivering on that mission.  The Atlas GMT offers everything in moderation: size, style, and all the rest — it’s not too over the top in any way; 38.5mm wide by 10.2mm tall is a really great size for 2019, where we’re seeing what I (along with many others)…

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23.08.2019

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT races ahead

The story in a second: One of the best, most interesting watches of 2019. The case Wow. What a difference a case makes. Hublot, along with their friends at Ferrari’s Centro Stile, has taken the traditional Hublot design codes, deconstructed them, put them through the ringer a few times, and re-assembled them into something that’s very Hublot, but also completely fresh. The lines are dramatically softened, and the overall look is reminiscent of that bubbly, biomorphic school of watch design that had an extended moment in the ’90s. Having said that, it’s clearly a Hublot — the bezel, complete with…

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22.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The Aussie-only Seiko Prospex SRPD50K

Seiko is a brand with a lot of love in Australia — their watches, especially the divers, are incredibly popular, due in equal parts to their good looks, virtual indestructibility and high ratio of bang vis-à-vis buck. So, we’ve got no doubt that this Australia-only limited edition — a two-tone twist on the classic turtle — will be a hit. So, say hello to the Seiko Prospex SRPD50K. If you’re reading this, the fundamentals of the watch are likely familiar to you. A big, cushion-y case (which resembles the silhouette of a turtle — hence the name) that clocks in…

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22.08.2019

Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph

Before we start, I feel I should apologise for the above headline. Only, I’m not sure if I should apologise to the Ramones or Girard-Perregaux. Perhaps both. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was reborn at SIHH 2017 — from humble mid-70s beginnings. Since then we’ve seen the sporty collection gradually expand to encompass all the usual complications and finishings – skeletons, tourbillons, perpetual calendars and the rest. But the one we’re most into is, without doubt, the chronograph. In the mainline collections (women’s and Absolute versions aside), there are two main options (for now): a delicious shimmering blue, or this handsome silvery…

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22.08.2019

Celebrating the moon, the moonwatch and the Apollo Missions with Omega and Charlie Duke

On Wednesday night, Omega held a black tie bash in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing (and the small but significant role the Speedmaster played in it). It was one of the most impressive events I’ve attended in my time covering watches. But the ‘wow factor’ wasn’t due so much to the cavernous setting at Fox Studios, or the darkly moody, evocative set dressing, with giant, dramatically lit moons and an even more gargantuan, golden astronaut overseeing proceedings. The reason this event stands tall (even taller than the aforementioned big gold guy) had everything to…

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20.08.2019

Exploring the dark side with the Seiko Prospex LX Black editions

In case you’re not familiar with Seiko’s Prospex line, it’s a venerable series of ‘professional specification’ watches that are made with a purpose. It’s a long-running series full of iconic divers with colourful names like the Turtle and the Tuna Can. Baselworld 2019 bore witness to what is perhaps the boldest iteration of the collection yet — the Prospex LX collection. The same sense of purpose is there, but so too is a level of finish that’s uncommon in the Seiko line. Prospex LX is top-tier stuff, with Spring Drive movements and case finishing that we’re far more used to seeing…

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20.08.2019

Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps

There’s a lot to like about a rubber strap — especially if you live somewhere hot, wet or humid. The natural material is exceptionally hard-wearing, and comfortable to boot. The only issue is that in the past there’s been a perception that rubber is a strictly utilitarian affair and, as such, quality is of a lesser concern. The game has changed on that front, with brands like Hublot, Richard Mille and even Patek Philippe showing us what premium rubber looks like. But what if you’re after a solid aftermarket option? Well, we’ve got your back with these five high-end rubber…

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18.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue

Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection — first released in 2018 — is a refreshingly upbeat take on mid-century design, full of personality and warmth. And this new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue keeps the tempo up. The case looks simple at first glance, but quickly gathers sophistication the more you study it. I particularly like the slight cushiony flaring around the crown, and the flare (or is that flair?) of the lugs, which are wide at the flanks but quite short, resulting in a timepiece that’s comfortable on the wrist. The proportions on the calendar model add to…

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17.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in black

A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is a real insider watch. From the dial it looks much like many other Lange watches, but really, it’s something quite special. It’s a watch that’s been around since 2016, but this year we were treated to a chic new version, in white gold with a black dial.  So, what makes the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds stand out (albeit in the most understated way possible)? Well, in a nutshell, it’s a watch that is all about absolute precision, and the team in Glashütte have let nothing get in their way. The caliber…

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16.08.2019

HANDS-ON: 21st century tech meets Japanese swordsmithing tradition in the Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’ 

At first glance, the pairing of a GPS-enabled, solar-powered watch, with a direct lineage to an 800-year-old family tradition in one of Japan’s most culturally important crafts might seem odd, but that’s precisely what we’re looking at with this high-end Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’.  Before we get to the sword side of things, let’s have a look at the timekeeping side of the equation. The case of this imposing watch is made from titanium, but not just any titanium. We’re talking about recrystallised titanium, which gives the metal a unique surface finish, reminiscent of the tempering of a Japanese blade. Moreover,…

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14.08.2019

Sherwood’s Grand Seiko Snowflake 

Look, full disclosure. We did not know (or indeed pay) Sherwood to give us this particular answer.  But having said that, it’s quite nice to hear someone say they bought a watch off your review. And honestly, of the many (many) watches I’ve reviewed over the years, you could do a whole lot worse than the Grand Seiko SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’. It’s a real modern classic, and a watch that’s full of character and emblematic of what Grand Seiko is all about. Or, as Sherwood puts it:  When I look at my watch it’s an immediately calming Snowflake presence that just…

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14.08.2019

Ever fancied owning a piece of Australian political history? How about Bob Hawke’s watch? 

Former Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke, who died in May this year, stands as one of the country’s most colourful — and beloved — political figures. He also enjoyed a particularly long tenure as PM, from March 1983 until December 1991, winning four elections as Labor leader. And while his political legacy includes the creation of Medicare and Landcare, the floating of the Australian dollar, and his removal of any UK jurisdiction over Australian affairs, more popularly he’s remembered as a quintessential larrikin: a swearing, drinking PM who was famous for his ability to skol a can of beer and…

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13.08.2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer’s tourbillons challenge the Swiss status quo … in the best way possible 

Fun fact: TAG Heuer is the largest Swiss producer of tourbillons. It’s a statement that if made a decade ago would have emitted oh-so-Swiss snickers of disbelief in the rarefied halls of Baselworld or SIHH. Tourbillons, according to the narrative, are the epitome of hand-crafting — tiny components that take precious hours to intricately assemble. But here we are in 2019, and TAG Heuer has upset the applecart with its CNC-produced tourbillon, which offers the same visceral, whirling coolness at a price that — while still clocking in at five figures — is, what market analysts would say, aggressively competitive. And…

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10.08.2019

Just because – the incredible Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’

Earlier this year, Andrew spent some (very) quality time in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton and some of their most serious watchmaking. If you haven’t seen the video, it’s definitely worth a look (as is this one), but we reckon this watch, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is worth a second look, as our photographer Jason Reekie has worked wonders with his macro lens.  If you’re in the mood for a seriously high-end statement piece, this should be of interest to you. The 42.5mm case is in Louis Vuitton’s classic ‘tambour’ shape — inspired by a…

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10.08.2019

14 of the best watches spotted in ‘Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee’

Editor’s note: Jerry Seinfeld has dropped another series of the excellent Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee, so we thought we’d repost Dan’s wrap from last year of some of the most interesting watches worn on the series. Stay tuned for the update …  Jerry Seinfeld can do no wrong, and after having been streamed more than 100 million times, Seinfeld’s pet project, Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee, recently premiered its new season on Netflix after nine seasons as a web series on the digital network Crackle. Staying true to the title’s premise, this simple yet compelling series sees Jerry introduce a new…

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09.08.2019

Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph

A few weeks ago we were treated to an evening with Piaget, and their thintastic Altiplano collection. And while we had a bunch of watches in our office, and our excellent photographer Jason Reekie on hand, it would have been a shame not to make the most of it. We’ve already seen what the mighty meteorite dial looks like in crisp focus under good lights, and now it’s time for two others — the 40mm Altiplano Date and the Altiplano Chronograph.  Piaget Altiplano Chronograph Flyback Dual Time OK, so if you’re anything like me, a chronograph isn’t the first thing that…

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08.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The defiant one – Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon

In the early years of the 21st century, Zenith was a brand that looked to the past — honouring their iconic El Primero in its original guise, and taking flights of nostalgic fancy with its Pilot’s collection. All fine watches, but comfortable takes on familiar forms. In 2017, the brand abruptly changed direction, with a thoroughly modern iteration of an old name — Defy — taking centre stage. One of the pillars of this new Zenith vision was the El Primero 21 (a watch we looked at in some detail here), which took the iconic high-frequency chronograph that is the…

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07.08.2019

Watches run in his veins – Jonathon’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic 

Jonathon did not buy this watch — a stylish Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic — instead, he managed to convince his grandfather to relinquish it. It was the first watch Jonathon remembers seeing and noticing that it was a *nice* watch (and honestly, it’s easy to see why). Now, it’s one thing to notice your grandfather’s watch and admire it from afar, but it’s another thing entirely to fully migrate it from his wrist to your own. But as we discovered in the latest instalment of Every Watch Tells a Story, Jonathon’s approach was surprisingly direct.  I said to him, “Hey, that’s…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo 06.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what happens when you take apart the ultra-thin Bulgari Octo Finissimo chronograph

The Naked Watchmaker is one of our favourite internet projects, and not just because of its punny name and the fact that the man behind it, Peter Speake-Marin, is one of the nicest people in the business. No, it’s fascinating because it offers a view of watches we don’t typically see. Deconstructed, and not in an “I dropped it onto a concrete floor and now it’s all deconstructed” sense. No, Speake-Marin offers a superbly qualified take on taking apart a watch. And this time around he’s turning his tools to one of the hottest watches of 2019, the Bulgari Octo…

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05.08.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board)

Some of my favourite releases from SIHH 2019 were the watches from the IWC Spitfire collection, which offers a host of twists on their classic pilot’s collection, and a few special limited editions — like the Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”.  At SIHH we also learned more about the story of this watch, or rather the adventure it takes its name from, and which IWC is supporting. The Silver Spitfire was originally constructed in 1943, and took part in 51 sorties between 1944 and 1945.  The old bird (known by the registration G-IRTY) has been given a fresh lease…

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04.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold

With a name that sounds like it comes straight from the Marvel Cinematic Universe, it should come as no surprise that the watch looks more than a little out of this world.  First of all there’s the dial — or rather the lack of it. Because as you might guess with a name like “Skeleton X”, the dial of this watch is pretty extensively open-worked, offering the wearer a beautifully worked gear train, as well as a whole lot of negative space. The bridges — slight as they may be — form the ‘X’, around a box-like aperture, with the bottom…

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03.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune

There’s an inherent romance in all mechanical wristwatches — a romance drawn largely from the fact that these painstakingly created devices are fundamentally anachronistic machines that have been superseded several times over. Yet, still they manage to survive and, indeed, thrive.  And it might just be me, but this romance factor is more present than ever when it comes to watches with celestial complications because — and let’s be real here — no one *needs* a moonphase in 2019. This fact is why the people who design and create this very traditional complication tend to show a bit of creative…

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03.08.2019

You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019

A lot of new watches are released every year. Big brands will often release 100 or more new unique variants (and fair enough, different dial/strap/material, etc take up a lot of this space), but even so, it’s fair to say that not every new watch gets its time in the sun. Sometimes that’s OK, as we’re talking about minor, or sometimes downright uninteresting updates. But sometimes otherwise excellent watches slip through the cracks. It’s worth noting that the more diffuse release schedule, especially from Swatch Group brands, means that we’re not seeing the same major release moments, which is a…

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02.08.2019

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic

It’s easy to forget or overlook the magnitude of what Hublot has achieved with their materials innovation — the scale and scope of their sapphire pieces is impressive to say the least, and their use of ceramic is amongst the most interesting in the business (which is no small feat given that every brand and its dog is making the most of the material at the moment).  What really stands out with Hublot’s ceramic watches is their vivid tones. Last year’s Red Magic was one of the real bright spots (literally), with a hue that no other brand has managed…

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02.08.2019

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’ 

This is one of those watches that makes so much sense I’m amazed it didn’t exist until now. But before we dive into the details of the IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’, let’s step back and have a quick recap on the Big Pilot.  The Big Pilot is a watch with two distinct histories. The first iteration of this story was the original watch, made as a navigational tool for wartime use. In this context, size = clarity and reliability. The civilian story of the Big Pilot begins in 2002, with the reference 5002. IWC’s revival of their historic design…

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Cartier Santos-Dumont 01.08.2019

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear 

Now that we’re more than halfway through, I think we can all admit that 2019 has been a bit of an odd one, as far as years go. If you had told past Felix that a slender steel quartz Cartier would be one of the best watches of the year, he would have scoffed.  But here we are, and here is the Cartier Santos-Dumont. It is, as you’ll have surmised, a slender steel quartz watch and it’s quite incredible. To my mind, what’s great about this watch is the fact that it showcases everything that’s great about Cartier — namely,…

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01.08.2019

5 presentation dials that ruined perfectly good watches. Or did they?

Editor’s note: The other day, Nick popped into the office with his latest pick-up, a fairly awesome Seiko with a custom ‘Gator Bowl’ dial, which got me to thinking about custom dials, particularly those with corporate logos. They seemed to have had quite a moment in the past, but that time has definitely passed. And while a lot of people aren’t too keen on these dials, I’m quite a sucker for them. Here’s a story from a while back, where I go into bat for custom dials …  There’s a piece of pop culture folklore that says that when you…

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01.08.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition

I can only imagine the joy that must have been felt in Omega’s design department when it was announced that Tokyo would be hosting the 2020 Olympic Games. Not only has Japan had an incredible influence on design, but their flag — a simple red sun in a white field — lends itself to some interesting watchmaking interpretations.  Case in point is one of the first limited editions offered up by the Official Timekeeper, a Planet Ocean clad in white — dial, bezel and strap (there’s a chic grey NATO in the mix too), with a varnished red dot at the…

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31.07.2019

Dale is an actual pilot – and he wears a Breitling Navitimer

Today’s entrant into the ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ hall of fame is Dale. It turns out that Dale has a bit of a thing for pilot’s watches, and for good reason — Dale is a commercial airline pilot. And the pride of his collection is none other than the mighty Breitling Navitimer. In case you’re not across it, the Navitimer (a portmanteau of navigation and timer) is one of those seminal watches that dates back to 1952, and featured a distinctive slide rule bezel, which was used by pre-avionics pilots as a tool, allowing on-the-fly calculations of things like fuel levels…

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31.07.2019

IN-DEPTH: The Piaget Altiplano Automatic 40mm with meteorite dial 

The story in a second: Ultra thin and out of this world, we have to be talking about the Piaget Altiplano Automatic 40mm with meteorite dial. Piaget’s Altiplano is a staple in the world of ultra-thin watches, with an elegance that matches its slenderness. This limited edition version dials (if you’ll pardon the pun) the elegance up to 11, with a unique meteorite dial that adds a level of flash and panache that’s hard for a ‘normal’ dial to match. We had the chance to have a closer look at our recent Piaget event, and these are our thoughts …  The case…

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29.07.2019

HANDS-ON: The Montblanc Heritage Automatic 

Normally in these hands-on reviews I leave the sticky question of the price until the end. But this time around I’m putting it front and centre. This Montblanc Heritage Automatic has an Australian RRP of $3410. And for that amount of coin, you get a lot of watch.  The steel case is well-sized — 40mm across and 11.65mm high, with 20mm lugs packing a really nice grey croc strap with a slight sfumato effect. The lines of this case err, as the heritage name would suggest, towards the more classic in style. Fairly simple construction, a mirror polish, and pleasing,…

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Diver's – Doxa SUB 200T. Graph "130th Anniversary Celebration" 25.07.2019

Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch? 

One of the most random, and awesome watches to emerge from the briny depths of Baselworld was the (very) limited edition Doxa SUB 200 T. On the surface this is a pretty standard vintage reissue, with a big 43mm case in that classic cushion shape, with that classic orange dial, in a dual register layout (powered by a hand-wound Valjoux 7734), and with some awesomely retro dial details — blocky prints, stocky hands, the whole nine yards.  But — and this is a big but — the case is made from solid-freaking-yellow-gold. Solid, with a capital S O L I…

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24.07.2019

Vince’s Konstantin Chaykin is no joking matter 

Next up in our rolling cavalcade of ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ stories is Vince. Now, this one is a bit of a funny one, and not just because the watch in question is the critically acclaimed Joker from Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. If you’re not familiar with the Joker, it’s a very clever piece of watchmaking, that looks like, well, a Joker. Look closer and you’ll notice that those crazy eyes show hours and minutes, and the lolling red tongue is actually a moonphase. It’s bright, cheery and pretty out of the box for a generally conservative industry. And…

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21.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been quiet on the chronograph front, which is, at first glance, odd. Chris Hall, over at QP Magazine, clearly thought so, and put together this story on the matter. He goes into history, corporate politics, R&D and even — occasionally — watches. The real reason why…

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21.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like

The buying and selling of second-hand watches has traditionally been an unglamorous, possibly even seedy, affair. The traditional image of that side of the industry has been one of tight margins, hard sales talk and the ever-present threat of fakes. Well, in the last few years it’s a part of the business that’s been undergoing something of a quiet revolution.  The space is now dominated by the internet, and by large corporate parties like Chrono24 and WatchBox. Richemont has even gotten into the game with their acquisition of Watchfinder. There’s no doubt that this shift is rapidly changing the how…

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20.07.2019

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it

When it comes to creative collaborations, few brands have the level of panache or skill that Hublot does. They have a few on the burner at the moment: their Orlinski watches and the one we’re looking at today – the Sang Bleu.  To be a little more specific, we’re looking at the Hublot Sang Bleu II in titanium. Now, you might be wondering who (or what) a Sang Bleu is — if your French is good, you’ll have worked out that it means blue blood, which gives you a bit of a hint. Sang Bleu is a tattoo studio, with…

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20.07.2019

Speedy stories – 3 tales of Omega Speedmaster love

You might not have noticed but we’ve hit the Omega Speedmaster pretty hard this week. Though, in our defence, we think it’s justified, what with the 50th anniversary of the Moon landing and all that. A few days ago, Felix asked the deep question of what actually makes a Speedmaster, and this morning we had a closer look at the new 50th anniversary piece. And tonight we’re taking some guests to a celebratory shindig at one of Omega’s Melbourne boutiques (spacesuit optional). To score one of the metaphorical golden tickets, we asked people (specifically subscribers to our newsletter) to tell…

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20.07.2019

One small step for the Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary 

On this day, 50 years ago Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin walked on the moon. An incredible achievement in the history of humanity. What’s even more incredible is that this occurred less than seven years after President John F. Kennedy declared: “We choose to go to the Moon.”  Of course, along for the ride was a humble steel chronograph from Omega – the Speedmaster. In the 50 years since that decade, the Speedy has become (and remained) one of watchmaking’s most enduring icons. And, inevitably, this is something that Omega wanted to celebrate — and celebrate in style. At the…

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19.07.2019

EVENT: Celebrating the slender wonders of Piaget in Melbourne

Piaget is a brand that exudes class, and has style to spare. This was something that Time+Tide and our guests got an up-close lesson in on Wednesday night, when the brand showcased their ultra-thin masterpieces for us.  For watches that look so slight, the Piaget Altiplano packs a punch — I had the pleasure of wearing an Altiplano Chronograph for the night, and I’ve got to say that the stark, slender lines of this watch made a welcome change from more sporty chrono fare, and I wasn’t the only person to think so, as I think it spent more time…

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When NASA tested the OMEGA Speedmaster 18.07.2019

What is the Omega Speedmaster?

This week seems to be an appropriate one to ask what, as far as a product-focused watch news and review site goes, is a profoundly philosophical question: what is the Omega Speedmaster? Simple, non? Well, sort of. At the base level, the Speedmaster is Omega’s long-running family of professionally oriented chronographs. But it’s so much more than that. It is, in the truest sense of the word, an icon of both modern design and history. It’s the Moonwatch, immortalised in the Smithsonian Museum, in film and pop culture. Viewed through this lens, the Speedmaster quickly becomes more than a professionally oriented…

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18.07.2019

Dive into the Longines Legend Diver Black 

We’re on record as being fans of the Longines Legend Diver Black — in fact, we like it so much we’re selling it in our shop. The attraction is immediate: if you just look at these photos, obviously apparent. It’s stealthy, sexy and very, very sharp.  In case you need a quick primer: 42mm, 300m of water resistance, PVD case, rock-solid automatic, glassbox sapphire and a sexy dual-crown super compressor style layout. Hotness.  But pictures and specs only tell half the story. Luckily, we’ve got video. So, if you want to see what the Legend Diver is like on the…

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17.07.2019

Felix’s first nice watch – an Archimede Pilot that’s still in the rotation 10 years on

So it’s a little bit weird to be writing an intro blurb for my own ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ video, but there you go. I’d also say that my own ‘story’, brief as it is, doesn’t stack up to some of the others we’ve got in terms of drama. But it is my story, and — I think — a relatable one.  It’s the first one that I chose, and that I obsessed about online. It’s the story of my humble Archimede Pilot, which was the first ‘nice’ watch I bought, more than 10 years ago. It’s a watch…

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16.07.2019

Panerai’s latest lean, green timekeeping machines – PAM00995, PAM00998, PAM00999 and PAM00997

Panerai’s Radiomir is the diving brand’s most dressy offering, lacking some of the heft — as well as the crown guard — of its Luminor and Submersible brethren. But it’s still every inch (or should that be millimetre) a Panerai. That super-distinctive case, those hands and, of course, those numerals. This time around, we’ve been treated to a brace of new references: PAM00995, PAM00998, PAM00999 and PAM00997, running the gamut of 45mm three-hand to GMT models and a beefy 48mm ceramic model, with new dial treatments. And what a dial — glorious (not-so-glossy) matt green. Visually, the look is strong; the…

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16.07.2019

5 Instagram watch cliches that need to be cancelled, right now

Ah, Instagram. That platform that sucks, according to my phone’s digital wellbeing section; well over an hour a day of my life into its colourful void. It’s a social media platform that might as well be made for watches — highly visual, and the wristshot is perfectly framed in that square crop. I’ve made some great watch buddies through Instagram — the #watchfam is real. But it’s not all peachy; it’s also the worst platform out there for mental health, thanks to its impossibly filtered lifestyles and the intense FOMO-factor. That’s a bigger fish than I’m capable of frying RN,…

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15.07.2019

5 Omega Speedmasters that made it the legend it is today, and their modern equivalent 

This week marks the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission that saw Neil Armstrong walk on the moon. And on his wrist was an Omega Speedmaster. This moment ensured that the humble, manually wound chronograph was vaulted into the hallowed halls of history. But the Speedmaster story is about more than just that moonwatch. Here are five defining references of the iconic Speedy.  1957 – Omega Speedmaster — ref. 2915 — the Broad Arrow If we have to start somewhere, it might as well be at the beginning. Production of the Speedmaster began in 1957, and was conceived as a dedicated…

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14.07.2019

3 of Australia’s finest … watch brand ambassadors

In case you haven’t watched our videos and heard our brutal mangling of Swiss brand names with broad Australian accents, you might not realise that Time+Tide is an Australian-based company. So it makes sense that we’re a little proud of our homegrown heroes, and even those we’ve adopted (hello Rusty). So, in the spirit of mateship, say g’day to three crackin’ Aussie watch ambassadors.  The ambassador: Chris Hemsworth. Brand ambassadors don’t come much bigger than the mighty god of thunder. The former soapie star has dominated screens since his breakout role in 2011’s Thor. Since then he’s gone from strength to…

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tag heuer monaco 11.07.2019

INTRODUCING: The shiny, silver, TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer’s Monaco at 50 celebration rolls on — we’ve already seen editions one and two — and the third, formally known as the TAG Heuer Monaco 1989-1999 Limited Edition, has just been announced in New York City.  The basis for this watch is the Calibre 11-powered Monaco (obvs), in its distinctive (and large wearing) 39mm case, with offside crown. And while previous versions have been decidedly colourful in green and red, this edition is more monochrome in flavour. The dial is realised in stunning silver. Or, to be more technical, a grey-grained rhodium-plated dial that’s been given a sandblasted finish.…

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10.07.2019

The detail is in the dial for Louis Vuitton’s Only Watch entry

The other week, Nick showed us some of the highlight pieces from the upcoming Only Watch auction. There was a bunch of spicy pieces destined for charity greatness, but one watch kept drawing my attention — the Louis Vuitton Spin Time.  There are a few reasons why this watch stands out. Sure, there’s diamonds (3.33 carats of them) — but that’s par for the course in a watch playing at this level, and then there’s the unique Spin Time display, which is quite cool, as Andrew discovered here. And, of course, being Louis Vuitton, this watch comes with a pretty…

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09.07.2019

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia

Dan Henry is a pretty great little watch brand — the brainchild of a Brazilian watch collector who is dedicated to making affordable modern versions of classic designs. And while other brands go down this path of well-priced retro nostalgia, too often it comes across as inauthentic pastiche. But this isn’t an accusation you can level at Dan Henry. There is so clearly a level of love, care and attention that goes into these watches that the intention is never really in question. And the brand new Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is a great example of this.  As you might…

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08.07.2019

Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold

Regular readers will register precisely zero surprise when I state that the entirety of Time+Tide are raging fans of Bulgari’s distinctive Octo — but, if we’re being completely real (and when are we not?), then it’s the Octo Finissimo that attracts the lion’s share of our ardour. But it’s not the only arrow in that particular octagonal quiver. There’s the chronograph, the Roma (kind of), and this guy here — the Bulgari Octo L’Originale.  While the Octo L’Originale isn’t a new model this year, this latest version has been given a look that is, as the kids say, fresh. The…

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05.07.2019

The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking 

It’s hard to overstate the importance of the Zenith El Primero. The movement, an elegant, high-beat column-wheel chronograph, is impressive enough. It’s even more impressive when you factor in that this miniature engineering feat was the first automatic chronograph to be presented as a working prototype — after seven long years of development. Just as important — or perhaps even more important — is the staying power of the El Primero. It’s been in near continuous production, and is still one of the greatest automatic chronograph movements on the market today. Today, we’re going to explore its evolution …  1969…

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04.07.2019

Dive deep with the DOXA Sub 1200T Professional

If you know the heritage dive brand Doxa, you know they’re famous for three things: Dirk Pitt, distinctive cases, and orange dials that are bright enough to light up your life (and the lives of anyone within a 10-foot radius of you). Dirk Pitt is a fictional adventuring Doxa wearer, created in the mind of Clive Cussler, so we’re not going to cover him too much here. The case and the dial, however, are very much in evidence on the Doxa Sub 1200T Professional. So, if those sound like two things you’re into, read on.  It’s important to note that…

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04.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: It might be the biggest, but the Apple Watch hasn’t crushed the Swiss 

Fun fact: Last year the Apple Watch shipped 22.5 million units. In the same period, the Swiss watch industry exported 23.7 million watches. Scary stuff if you’re a Swiss watch brand. Especially scary if your business is rooted in quartz watches — the market sector that’s being most aggressively eroded by the Apple onslaught.  This is hardly news though — the Apple Watch has been around for five years, and the Swiss have been busy coming up with their own alternatives, like the TAG Heuer Connected and the Montblanc Summit.  For an excellent state of the union style overview of where…

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01.07.2019

The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection

A few weeks ago we spent some quality time with a few friends and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra Thin pieces, with eye-catching guilloché enamel dials. Well, before the watches were locked away for the evening in their display cases, we took the opportunity to get up close and personal with these beauties.  Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel  When Sandra first looked at the white gold JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon back at SIHH, she commented that its big trick was to transform a discreetly elegant design into a breathtaking showstopper. A few months on and that statement is, if…

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01.07.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Christie’s return champion yachtsman’s stolen Rolex 

OK, so on the surface this story is nice and simple. Philip McColl, a sailor who had his engraved Rolex Submariner (a commemoration of his 1988 World Championship win) stolen in 1998 returned to him by Christie’s auction house. Good news story, right? Well, the actual story is a little more complex.  Turns out that Christie’s contacted Mr McColl way back in 2016, asking if he wanted to buy his watch back. Click here for more on that. Mr McColl, presumably miffed that an auction house was trying to sell him his own stolen watch, went ahead and sued Christie’s.  Fast…

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29.06.2019

HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton 

Architectural is a word that gets thrown around a lot in watch writing, and when you look at a watch like this Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton you can see why. The clear, expansive view provided allows the wearer to look down at a tiny, and industrious city, busily whirring away.  And if we continue the architecture metaphor, this watch is a far cry from your day-to-day office block — this is more along the lines of monumental, futuristic architecture. Full of sweeping bridges and curves. It’s a watch with nowhere to hide — the wheels and gears, along with the…

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28.06.2019

HANDS-ON: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Zodiaque

When you look at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s core offerings from their Reverso and Master Collection lines it’s easy to see why the brand has something of a reputation for straight, sober watchmaking. But don’t forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre is also capable of absolute top-shelf high-complication, high-jewellery pieces like this (frankly astonishing) Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Zodiaque.  So what are we looking at here? Well, first of all, you’re looking at a 42mm white gold case, not that you can see too much of it under all those baguette-cut diamonds gracing the bezel, lugs and even the crown. Under normal circumstances these diamonds would…

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28.06.2019

VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature 

When Montblanc’s 1858 collection burst onto the scene back in 2015 it heralded a bold new direction for the brand, adding a no-nonsense, outdoorsy sensibility to what had, until that point, been a fairly buttoned-up collection of watches.  Since that initial drop, the 1858 has gone from strength to strength, and their 2019 slate of releases was particularly cohesive, and attractive. For me, the core collection can be summed up in three, thematically linked watches, all limited editions, that have taken the brand back to nature, with their earthy bronze cases and lush, dark green dials.  There’s the 1858 Automatic…

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27.06.2019

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold

Just the other day, Sandra was opining about the changing face of two-tone, and today this fine example of modern bi-colour watches hits the proverbial desk. The Record collection is Longines’ line of dressy daily wearers that offer a great entry point into some pretty serious mechanical watchmaking. And that’s because every single watch in the Record collection is certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, Switzerland’s chronometer testing institute. What this means is that when you slip on your Record, you know it’s keeping an average daily rate of between -4 and +6 seconds. On top of that, it’s…

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27.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Your watch is dirtier than your toilet 

Oh ye of sensitive stomachs, look away now. In a story published in the Daily Mail (yeah, we know it’s dodge — but the headline was just too irresistible), your precious watch is home to a host of germs, bacteria and other assorted disgustingness.  In research (and I suspect it wasn’t peer reviewed), it was found that on average a watch was three times dirtier than a toilet seat (which I guess is some sort of industry index for uncleanliness), with watches on bracelet coming up the cleanest, and dedicated sports watches like Fitbits coming up the dirtiest, at an…

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25.06.2019

INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary

It’s a truism to say that the watch industry loves an anniversary, and while mostly it’s the watch brands doing the celebrating, this time it is a retailer celebrating the big 4-0. Boy, are they celebrating in style.  The Hour Glass is one of the major retail figures in the Asia-Pacific region, with more than 40 boutiques (including three in Australia). The first of these boutiques opened in Singapore back in 1979. The brand is celebrating their 40th anniversary by releasing a series of special limited edition watches with some of their long-term partners like Urwerk, Franck Muller, Nomos, Longines and…

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25.06.2019

LIST: 7 watches to check out at Melbourne Watch Week

For the second year running, Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz and Glashütte Original — The Swatch Group’s top-tier brands — are showcasing their latest and greatest at Melbourne retailer Monards Crown boutique.  Melbourne Watch Week, as it’s called, is running from June 20 to 30 (slightly longer than a week, but who’s counting). It’s a great opportunity to get up close and (somewhat) personal with these pretty special pieces. Yesterday I was filming some watches and I took the chance to have a look around at these standout pieces, and these are my seven picks.  Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda  Blancpain’s Fifty…

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24.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what Kanye’s go-to art guy thinks of Breguet

Breguet — as we discovered last week — is a pretty classic brand. Heck, they’ve even got a line called the Classique. So when we saw a story on what Wes Lang — controversial American contemporary artist and collaborative creative to the stars — thought of the buttoned-up brand, you can bet we hit the link.  And we’re glad we did, because Lang’s take on the ultra pure Breguet Classique 7147 is pretty on point. He nails its timelessness.  But the payoff is huge. The 7147’s dial has a depth of colour that is nearly indescribable — it almost looks…

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22.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The rise of patina

One of the longest and most sustained watch ‘trends’ in recent times is that of vintage and retro styled pieces. In fact, you could argue that it’s now a bona fide category in its own right. And underlying this entire movement is the concept of patina. Sure, retro design plays a part, but the real charm is in those faded paints and the kind of look that only comes from a long life well lived …  Patina is even more important in the secondary market — particularly the high-end auction space, where ‘good’ versus ‘bad’ patina on the right watch…

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21.06.2019

Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

The first watch I saw at Baselworld 2019 was the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. I saw it at a preview dinner before the fair proper, and honestly, it kind of ruined me for other watches at the fair.  The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is just so impressive. Not only is it the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph (ever, no fancy caveats needed), measuring 6.9mm for the full watch, and 3.3mm for the BVL 318 movement alone. But (and more importantly for me) it looks and feels good on the wrist and is exceptionally user-friendly.  For me there…

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21.06.2019

EVENT: An evening with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin 2019 releases

Wednesday night saw Time+Tide invite Jaeger-LeCoultre into our office, along with some of our most die-hard fans (you have to be a little die-hard to make it out on such a cold evening), for an evening of watch-related entertainment.  There is no doubt that the guests of honour were a brace of brand new Master Ultra Thin watches, with stunning enamel guilloché dials in white gold cases. These were the watches first on show at SIHH 2019, and it was great to see them closer to home. And while our readers were keen to debate the merits of tourbillon versus…

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21.06.2019

Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional

Big news overnight from the house of Omega – they can now claim the lofty (well, the opposite actually) title of deepest diving watch ever. Just how deep are we talking here? How about 10,928 metres? That’s the depth Victor Vescovo took his submersible, Limiting Factor into the Mariana Trench. And on that sub, was the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional.  The next question you might well be asking is — what was the previous record holder? Well, that honour was held by Captain Don Walsh and Jacques Piccard, who took their Trieste down to 10,916 metres, with a custom…

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20.06.2019

EVENT: Breguet’s 2019 collection lands in Melbourne

Tuesday night in Melbourne was quite chilly, and rainy to boot. But that didn’t stop our watch-loving readers from assembling at Fitzroy’s Cutler & Co for something truly special. And that something was a selection of Breguet’s latest and greatest watches, unveiled in Australia for the first time.  And for all that Breguet is known for their distinctive Classique and Tradition lines, those families were barely represented (though the new blue-dialled Classique was present, and indeed a favourite). No, instead the heroes of the night were the new additions to the sporty Marine line, and the feminine Reine de Naples.…

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19.06.2019

The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic 

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo family has been shattering records left, right and centre since its introduction in 2014. But the watch that really captured the hearts and minds of fans and critics alike was the Octo Finissimo Automatic — initially offered in sandblasted titanium, and shortly after in distinctive steel and gold versions. Well, this year it’s back, but in a brand new form. Meet the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic.  And when we say Ceramic, we mean ALL ceramic. The case, the bracelet, even the buckle. All of it is gorgeous, matt black ceramic.  In some ways it’s an unexpected twist on…

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18.06.2019

Why Hublot’s pitch at cricket is a smart play

The watch industry is nothing if not traditional — and this habitualness extends into the realm of brand partnerships. Formula 1, tennis, car brands, yachting, the Olympics and other top-tier aspirational sporting and cultural events. These are the happy hunting grounds for Swiss marketing executives hoping to leverage a new audience for their finely wrought, ticking products.  Cricket, though. That’s not an avenue traditionally known for its high-profile timekeeping tie-ins. Which is why Hublot, who have been official partners of the ICC Cricket World Cup since 2015, might, just quietly, have a hit on its hands. And the reason is…

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18.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 1969 – the year that changed watchmaking forever

In the history of the 20th century, few years are as loaded with cultural weight as the year 1969. It’s defined in our collective memory as the year of Woodstock and the Moon Landing, but it’s also a year of great significance for watches. Chris Hall has done the heavy lifting here for QP Magazine, in this excellent long read that sums up just why 1969 mattered, watch-wise. Of course there’s the complex and multi-pronged development of the automatic chronograph — long regarded as one of watchmaking’s holy grails. And then there’s the aforementioned moon landing, in which Omega’s famous Speedmaster had…

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16.06.2019

This old Blancpain Air Command commands an impressive price at auction

One of the surprise highlights from the recent Swatch-stravaganza that was Time to Move was Blancpain’s Air Command – a really neat reissue of an historic pilot’s chronograph. It’s fair to say that prior to this release, knowledge of the Air Command was limited to hardcore Blancpain fans and seasoned professionals. Well, the timing couldn’t have been better for the Phillips & Blackbird Sports auction, held in Hong Kong recently. As Lot 814 was an exceptionally rare original version. This 1960s chronograph was in impressive condition — with an evenly aged dial and a very crisp looking 42mm steel case.…

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15.06.2019

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Casio’s G-Shock has a reputation — and a well-deserved one, I might add — for being one of the toughest watches ever made. Way back in 1983, Kikuo Ibe, the man behind the watch, decreed that the watch needed to meet some pretty tough criteria: a 10-year battery life, water resistance of 10 bar, and the ability to survive a 10-metre fall onto a hard surface.  In the decades since, the combination of extreme functionality and even more extreme durability has made the G-Shock the go-to choice for people who need a watch that can *really* take a beating. And, of…

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tag heuer monaco 15.06.2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1979 – 1989 Limited Edition – a tribute to Le Mans

As we found out at the Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer is celebrating the 50th birthday of the genuinely iconic Monaco with five limited editions, one for each decade of its life. The second instalment has just been announced in Le Mans, a tribute to the 1971 film of the same name, a film responsible for some enduring (and genuinely iconic) images of the Monaco on the wrist of the one and only Steve McQueen. The colourway for the first edition was muted: earthy brown and dark green. This Monaco 1979 – 1989 is a polar opposite, in rich, vibrant…

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14.06.2019

Nims is not your average ambassador – the record-breaking speed climber who wears a Bremont dive watch at the top of the world

Brand ambassadors are an indelible part of the watch landscape. Fundamentally, an ambassador is someone — typically with a profile — who has a relationship with a watch brand, and endorses them. That’s the broad brush stroke picture, but the reality is much more diverse. An ambassador could be a Hollywood A-lister who wore a watch for the billboard photoshoot and a contractually mandated number of public appearances, never to be seen again. Or it could be something much more targeted, where the relationship is less about getting the watch in front of the largest number of eyeballs but rather the…

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14.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Can’t stomach a smart watch? How about a smart strap

Smart watches are here to stay. But that doesn’t mean we have to be OK with it in a mechanical watch-fancying world. But it’s hard to deny that self-quantification and easy, breezy notifications on the wrist address certain functionality that the Submariner and its ilk struggle with.  Never fear, Sony has a solution. The Wena strap, which can fit a conventional 18mm, 20mm or 22mm watch, is water resistant to 50 metres, and offers some tracking, notification and NFC functionality. All that is good. More importantly, it doesn’t look too much like a smart strap. This is very good.  Read…

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13.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READI – uh – LISTENING: Halios, Autodromo and Baltic over on the Worn & Wound podcast

It’s 2019. So podcasts and niche indie brands are where. it’s. at. Which is why today’s recommendation is the perfect package — offering both in spades. The Worn & Wound podcast is one of the best in the space, and it only gets better when they assemble the veritable avengers of “micro” brands, the guys behind Halios, Autodromo and Baltic. These guys drop some serious insights into the small indie scene, and what it’s like to run a small brand. Great insights, well recommended. These three brands offer some amazing value and are killing it on the design front. Forty-five…

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11.06.2019

Doubling down on the rainbow – the Franck Muller Double Mystery

Franck Muller’s tagline is “the master of complications”, and this watch delivers on that promise in dazzling style. This fully set Franck Muller Double Mystery from their Round collection (which goes to show that there’s more to the brand than Curvex cases) is a great example of working smart. The movement on show is the Double Mystery — the mystery being that there are no traditional hands at play here, rather two triangles nestled amongst the brilliance of the fully set dial. Of course it doesn’t take long to work out that these markers sit in two rotating discs, creating an…

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11.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza

If you pay attention to the more business-to-business end of watchland you might have noticed that UK-based mega-retailer Watches of Switzerland (not to be confused with our local Aussie retailers of the same name) recently listed on the London Stock Exchange. They noticed it over at Axios, where this interesting piece on the business of telling time comes from. Lots of it will be anecdotally familiar to people in the trenches of watch collecting, but it’s interesting to see it picked up by capital N News. Our key takeouts? Yup, Ecommerce is still the next big thing, but we’re not…

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05.06.2019

Hublot’s latest cricket collab – the Aerofusion Chronograph Cricket World Cup 2019 edition hits it for six

The 2019 Cricket World Cup is underway in the UK, and official timekeepers Hublot are there, busily timing every single match. The brand has been busy in other ways, too – coming up with a tremendously on point limited edition to celebrate. It’s their second World Cup watch (you might remember the first from 2015), and we’ve got to say they really nailed it with the Aerofusion Chronograph Cricket World Cup 2019.  This watch strikes just the right level of balance for a sporting tie-in piece. There’s lots of cricket details at play, but you’re never beaten over the head…

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04.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How Patek Philippe became the most desirable watch brand in the world

So, this article is worth it for the image alone. Aside from the fact that Indy would never wear a 5711, it’s pretty perfect. The Patek Philippe hype is real. But beyond the sassy visuals, it’s a decent overview of the brand, its key models and how its watches are made, even if the why-they’re-in-for repair story isn’t forthcoming: I wanted to know funny stories of how watches get broken. Perhaps an oligarch got into a fight with his supermodel girlfriend and she hurled his prize Patek at a wall one morning. Maybe a rapper fell backwards off a yacht…

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01.06.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The long and winding history of the NATO strap 

These days, “NATO strap” is a catch-all term for any sort of nylon or fabric watch strap. In reality, it’s a little more complex. The use of the term NATO is something of a misappropriation that arose because the ‘original’ fabric strap (20mm, nylon, chrome-plated hardware, in admiralty grey) could be requested using a form relating to its NATO stock number. Hence, the catch-all NATO term was born.  Ken Kessler goes into great detail on all this backstory, as well as the more recent chapters in the NATO strap narrative, in this  Revolution piece. And as a NATO strap (of…

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01.06.2019

The Farer Lander GMT Automatic proves travel doesn’t have to be so serious

Editor’s note: Who doesn’t love a good micro brand (we certainly do)? In many ways the little guys have so much more freedom than the big brands, when it comes to design, production (and all the rest). Case in point is the Farer Lander GMT, which we reviewed last year … Having previously reviewed the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla, I thought it was time to explore some more of the British microbrand’s offerings. Enter the Farer Lander GMT Automatic, one of three pieces within Farer’s GMT Automatic range. As I unboxed the Lander, the first thing that grabbed my attention…

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31.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The mythical Tornek Rayville TR-900

In 2017, Blancpain released one of the coolest dive watches of the year, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, which stood out because of its distinctive spherical moisture indicator on the dial. It’s a watch that owed its existence to a particularly storied watch with a military backstory.  The story is set in a post-WWII era, where the conception of war was changing rapidly and dramatically. It was a time of new technologies and new methodologies. Watches were part of this — and dive watches were particularly important. The legendary James Dowling takes a deep dive (excuse the pun) into…

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30.05.2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex ‘Street Series’ Solar Diver SNE533P

Seiko’s distinctive shrouded diver (commonly called the ‘Tuna Can’) is a real cult model, due in equal parts to its indestructibility and its distinctive design. It’s a watch that stands out from across the street, or in five metres of murky water — depending on how you like to use your dive watches.  Having said that, this solar-powered iteration — one part of a trio — is aimed more at a topside clientele, as the ‘Street Series’ sobriquet suggests. The series is offered in three colours — navy blue (which we’ve got here), an olive-y green and grey. The colour…

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28.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving

So, typically in these ‘recommended reading’ posts we link to a good watch-related read that’s — you know — on the internet. Today we’re doing it a little different, with this link to an actual, honest-to-goodness book.  It’s called (you guessed it) Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving and it’s 240 hardcover-bound pages of images and insight on the underwater world. The foreword is by none other than Clive Cussler and covers off the obvious aquatic options from Rolex, Omega and Blancpain, through to fan favourites Doxa, Tudor, IWC et al. Even MB&F gets a look in (our…

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28.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768

Panerai’s top-tier timepieces go by the name of Lo Scienziato — avant-garde evolutions of the brand’s classic case shapes that really let the watches’ technical side shine.  Of course, the technology is present in the movement: a skeletonised, three-dimensional offering that fills the 48mm case; the P.2005/T calibre boasts a central time and GMT, 24-hour indicator at three and an unusual 30-second tourbillon at the 10 o’clock position. This tourbillon is also on a rotating axis perpendicular to the balance wheel. Just to add a little extra drama. All this weighs a thrifty 23 grams.  And while the open-worked movement,…

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27.05.2019

HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 

Increasingly, I’m finding myself drawn to watches that are understated, unassuming expressions of classical perfection. Which goes a long way to explaining why I was so into the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat.  This is an exquisitely simple watch. Two hands, no date and a manually wound movement. A pure expression of classical watchmaking if ever I saw one. It’s also very classic in its proportions – the steel (also offered in gold) case is 40mm across by a svelte 7.4mm thin — truly deserving of that extra flat name. But just because it’s pared back the essentials, that doesn’t mean…

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27.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How much do you know about Sellita movements?

Ever since the Swatch Group clamped down on the availability of the once ubiquitous ETA movements, the name Sellita has become ever more more prominent in the world of third-party movement supply. But we’re willing to bet you don’t know much about the Sellita itself, beside the fact that their movements are in an awful lot of watches.  Which is where this excellent behind-the-scenes look at Sellita from QP fills in the gaps. For example, did you know Sellita was the third-largest Swiss movement manufacture, (just after the Swatch Group and before Rolex), and that they’ve been around since 1950?…

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26.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary 

Linde Werdelin is one of those brands that knows what it does, and does it well. And what they do is complex cases with numerous cutouts. It’s a strong look, and one that the brand has sensibly stayed loyal to over the years. Their latest limited edition SpidoSpeed Arktis continues the theme.  The 44mm case is complex, the outer part being made from three pieces, in an aggressively modern cushion shape, with a satin finish. The dial is also somewhat openworked — finished in two tones: silver and Linde Werdelin’s signature blue. The hour and minute tracks form part of…

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tag heuer monaco 25.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition

The watch industry likes to throw the word ‘icon’ around, often with very little basis in fact. However, when talking about the TAG Heuer Monaco, that moniker is well and truly earned. The disruptive, innovative square chronograph — one of the first automatic chronos on the market — turned 50 this year. I was expecting to see some big new releases at Baselworld, but TAG Heuer held their fire, focusing instead on the revamped Autavia line. So, no big Monaco news at Baselworld. And, in retrospect, it made sense. For where better to celebrate this significant anniversary than the watch’s…

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23.05.2019

HANDS-ON: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze with slate grey dial for 2019

If there was ever a case study for the difference a dial (and bezel) can make, the 2019 edition of the Tudor Black Bay Bronze with its slate grey dial is that watch. The new colour is subtle, and executed in a sophisticated manner, making for a dramatic improvement on the now discontinued khaki/brown version.  Before we get to the cool grey makeover, a recap. The Black Bay Bronze (or BBB to its friends) is — you guessed it — a bronze-cased version of Tudor’s flagship Black Bay. Specifically an alloy of bronze that’s high in aluminium, meaning you won’t get…

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23.05.2019

HANDS-ON: Swimming with sharks – the Seiko Prospex SRPD21K Save the Ocean 

Last year, Seiko announced their Save the Ocean initiative – a partnership between famed underwater explorer and conservationist Fabien Cousteau and Seiko Prospex. This program is aimed at raising awareness (and funds) for marine conservation. It was also a partnership that saw some very cool ‘Save the Ocean’ editions of classic Seiko divers.  Well, it’s 2019 now, and time for another edition of this feel-good diver. And while the blue colour theme is the same, the details are a little different. Meet the Save the Ocean Great White Shark edition ’turtle’ diver, AKA the Seiko SRPD21K. Fundamentally, this is the…

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22.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rush, racing and remembering Niki Lauda

The inimitable Niki Lauda died yesterday, and Formula 1 lost one of its most enduring icons. And I don’t know about you, but my own little tribute to this man will take the form of finishing off Formula 1: Drive to Survive (and marvelling at the on and off-track intensity of the sport), and re-watching Rush, the 2013 Ron Howard biopic detailing the professional rivalry between Niki Lauda and James Hunt. Rush is an excellent film, and in addition to being exquisitely played by Daniel Brühl, Niki Lauda served as a technical advisor. Read more about the film, and particularly…

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22.05.2019

HANDS-ON: A winning package at a winning price – the Mido Multifort Patrimony

Mido is one of those strange beasts in modern watchmaking – a largely under-the-radar brand that’s also owned by one of the largest corporations in the business (the Swatch Group). Already this is a good place to start, as the former factor means you can get some unexpected and unusual design choices, paired with the benefits (production quality, parts, etc) that come with being part of the Swatch Group. The Mido Multifort Patrimony is a great example of this. A sweet retro-looking watch at a seriously impressive price.  First of all, the Mido Multifort Patrimony comes in three flavours: steel…

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22.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is Aurel Bacs the Willy Wonka of watches?

The above question greeted me when I opened my email this morning — it was such a perfect allegory (heck, watches, chocolate and Bacs are amongst the most Swiss things ever) that I had to open it. Eventually, I scrolled through the mailing list, and came to the article, an extensive GQ profile of Phillips’ majordomo of watches, and one of the bolder figures in the world of watches. It’s a long, rollicking narrative that covers off the greatest hits (Newman’s Newman features a fair bit), and a well-researched one too. Here’s a taste: “More than any other individual, Bacs…

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21.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm in Sedna gold with grey enamel dial 

When the time came to see Omega’s 2019 collection I was pretty sure I knew what I was going to see, and what I was going to like. Speedmasters (obvs) and Seamasters mostly. And to be fair, I was not disappointed. But I was surprised. I was surprised by some very nice new additions to Omega’s thin, manually wound Trésor family. Specifically this Sedna gold number with a grey enamel dial.  I had seen this watch’s red-dialled sister earlier this year, and while it was nice, it was also a fairly flashy, esoteric piece. This watch, while similar from a…

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21.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 watchmaking manufactures you need to know

‘Manufacture’ is one of those watchmaking buzzwords you hear fairly frequently. Basically, it’s a fancy word for factory, but in the slow-moving and hallowed halls of horology it’s so much more. Think airy, well-lit rooms with highly skilled watchmakers investing countless hours on minute details most will never see. A far cry from the typical image of the noisy, grimy factory floor.  Over at Mr Porter’s Journal, the excellent Alex Doak runs through five of the greatest, and longest-running Swiss Manufactures, from Audemars Piguet thorough to Girard-Perregaux.  Worth a read. 

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21.05.2019

A fistful of tourbillons and a fancy fish – 3 high-end standouts from Time to Move

Time to Move, which took place last week in Switzerland, is the higher end Swatch Group brands’ alternative to Baselworld. And because they’re the prestige brands, it’s only fitting to expect some prestigious watches. We were not disappointed. Here are three watches that are less about telling the time and more about showing the world just how much fun can be had with time.  Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 10  Sure, American jewellery house Harry Winston is better known for astonishingly large, clear diamonds arranged in exquisite pieces, but they’ve got pretty solid form when it comes to timepieces too. Time…

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21.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The ultimate guide to the vintage Heuer Monaco

  The Monaco Grand Prix kicks off on May 26, and amidst the high octane and hairpin turns, it’s widely expected that we’re going to get some sort of announcement from TAG Heuer that’s celebrating the 50th anniversary of what’s arguably TAG Heuer’s most famous watch, the Monaco.  And while we can’t be sure about details like the dial and other specifics, we can be pretty sure that it will be a chronograph, and certain that the case will be square. And while we’ve certainly looked at some of the greatest modern Monacos, our work doesn’t have a patch on…

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19.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph

The Grande Seconde is perhaps Jaquet Droz’s most recognisable design, with an outsize second hand and characteristic figure 8 layout that you can spot from across a room. It’s also a versatile design that’s been called into service for a range of complications. But never a chronograph. Until this week’s release of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph.  This release isn’t just a single watch, but rather a fully formed collection. There’s a nice limited version, and a brace of steel-cased models, with asymmetrical dials. The dial options on offer are blue, taupe grey and sand-blasted silver. The blue will…

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19.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original SeaQ

Think Glashütte Original and the chances are good that ‘diver’ isn’t a category that immediately springs to mind. The German brand is known for many things – from 3/4 plates to Panorama dates – but undersea adventure isn’t really one of them.  That’s not to say that the brand doesn’t have form in the area. Fifty years ago the brand did indeed make a specialist underwater watch, for both military and civilian markets, and now they’ve decided to take the plunge again, with a brace of SeaQ watches. There’s a limited edition piece, and a version that comes in a…

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19.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command

When we were shown the new Blancpain products at Time to Move, we expected to see Fifty Fathoms and Villeret. We did not expect a pilot’s chronograph.  But, oh boy, was the Blancpain Air Command a pleasant surprise. On its face, this 500-piece limited edition is a very handsome heritage-styled number, with a 42.5mm steel case, topped with glass box sapphire and a distinctly Fifty Fathoms-esque rotating bezel, with that lozenge-shaped pip at 12. The handset is particularly elegant, with matchstick-shaped hands in white, filled with an ivory-toned, vintage-look lume. The heritage feel is picked up on the dial, which…

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18.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Flat Skeleton 5395

Last year, Breguet introduced a stunningly simple, surprisingly asymmetrical addition to the Classique family, the Tourbillon Extra-Flat. This year, at Time to Move, they’ve premiered the next chapter. It’s still a Classique Tourbillon, but it’s been dramatically skeletonised. Meet the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Flat Skeleton 5395.  First things first – the fundamentals: 41mm across by a truly slender 7.7mm thick, offered in platinum or rose gold cases. The dial is sapphire, to show off the movement. The hands are (obviously) Breguet. On paper, the 3mm thin movement, designated 581SQ (for squelette, or skeleton), is the same as the existing 581.…

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18.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph

The Seamaster Planet Ocean, with its bright orange details, is a favourite in the modern Omega lineup, a compelling combination of brightness and brown. And now we’ve been treated to a brand new version. First of all, this watch is large: 45.5mm across, and  tall on the wrist. It’s also heavy thanks to the steel case. If you really want to double down on the weight, there’s a steel bracelet option, which sees the entire package weigh a hefty 260 grams. If that sounds a little too intense, there are options on a NATO strap — Omega is offering two…

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18.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’ 

Like it or not, the origin story of Blancpain’s famous diver is inseparable from that of naval warfare. The development of the original watch was driven by two men, Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, who were in charge of a newly formed French unit, the Combat Swimmers — or Nageurs de Combat. They came up with a list of ideal characteristics for the perfect underwater wristwatch, one suited to their very specific needs. And, in 1953, Blancpain managed to meet these requirements, which came to define the needs of modern dive watches. To celebrate this legacy, Blancpain has…

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17.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition in steel (with a bit of gold)

Earlier in the year, Omega celebrated 50 years of Man stepping off our terrestrial sphere with the release of a very faithful reissue of the 1969 commemorative gold Speedmaster (even though the alloy itself is very new). But everyone kind of figured that wouldn’t be the only celebratory Speedy to step out of the brand’s Bienne factory. And everyone was right. Meet the Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition in a steel case. Now, though the 42mm case is traditional steel, the bezel is Moonshine gold, Omega’s new, more muted take on traditional yellow gold. But the special…

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17.05.2019

My pick of the 6 best new Omega watches for 2019, fresh from Time to Move

Omega, as you would expect from the Swatch Group powerhouse, had a panoply of new watches on display at Time to Move. We were treated to a total of 67 new watches (often minor variations in case/dial/etc, but still), and two special vintage pieces thrown in for good measure. Suffice to say there’s a lot to get through, and that will happen over the course of the year. But here’s my hot take on the best Omega watches for 2019: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic Titanium We were expecting updates to last year’s hero, the Seamaster Diver 300M, and we…

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12.05.2019

INSIGHT: The horologist’s guide to the galaxy

For generations, the business of buying and selling watches has remained remarkably stable. But all that’s changed in the digital age. This is your guide to watch buying in the 21st century, which originally appeared in our buying guide NOW, which you can download here.  You can’t buy the above watch. It was made in a limited edition of 100, and sold out in a matter of hours. It was made for, and sold by, a TAG Heuer news and review site. Ten years ago this online-only watch would have been unthinkable, in another 10 it might be the norm. So…

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11.05.2019

LIST: 14 of the best women’s watches, just in time for Mother’s Day

Editor’s note: Sunday in Australia is Mother’s Day, so we thought it was the perfect time to share these 14 excellent women’s watches from NOW, our buying guide — which you can download here.  SEIKO PRESAGE “COCKTAIL TIME” The Seiko Cocktail Time is a cult classic amongst the Seiko enthusiasts. First launched in 2010, it was designed with the help of master mixologist, Shinobu Ishigaki. So when Seiko expanded the Presage line to outside of the shores of Japan and introduced a handful of newly styled Cocktail Times in 2017, the crowd went wild. In 2018 they’ve added yet another…

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10.05.2019

HANDS-ON: The Bremont Jaguar D-Type

It’s been a minute or two since we’ve been treated to an automotive limited edition from the English chaps at Bremont. And can I just say, it’s been worth the wait. Today we’ve been treated to the latest chapter in their partnership with Jaguar (the first Bremont X Jag watch appeared in 2014), and this time around we’ve got a winsome chronograph that’s a wrist-borne celebration of the mighty D-Type.  The Jaguar D-Type first rolled out of their Coventry factory in 1955. Jaguar planned to make 100 of these distinctive 6-cylinder racers, but only got around to constructing 75. Until…

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09.05.2019

HANDS-ON: The Golden Turtle – Seiko’s Prospex SRPC44

Seiko’s core Prospex diver, known as the ‘Turtle’, is a rock-solid watch that’s a well-deserved fan favourite. And it’s easy to see why. It’s a compelling mix of classic, conservative dive watch style and idiosyncratic design that’s downright charming.  It’s also quite a versatile platform, as numerous colour combinations, and dials demonstrate. If the blacked-out Ninja Turtle and blue-textured dials of the Save the Ocean editions weren’t enough to convince you, I present the Seiko Prospex SRPC44, colloquially known as the Golden Turtle.  Before we get to what it’s like to wear this (very) gold watch on the wrist, let’s…

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08.05.2019

NEWS: Jaeger-LeCoultre now offers an 8-year warranty, the longest of all major brands

Even though the fine watch business might seem like a perpetual, slow-moving beast, it is one of constant, consistent progress. And as the mechanical movements improve and add things like silicon into the mix, it becomes obvious that they’re built to last longer than ever.  The other side of that coin is a longer warranty period — it makes sense that if you’re offering a more reliable watch, you should stand behind it for longer. Clearly this is something that Jaeger-LeCoultre agree with, as they’re now offering an impressive eight-year warranty on all watches (and clocks). More than that, the brand…

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07.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Tom Ford’s 14 commandments of watch wearing in 2019

So Tom Ford has started making watches. That’s not particularly surprising in this world of multi-category luxury labels. What’s a little more (or perhaps less, given Mr Ford’s frank personality) surprising is that Tom Ford, the man, has some pretty cut-and-dried rules for how to wear a watch in 2019.  The full list is well worth a read (as long as it’s served with a healthy grain of salt), and good for a laugh and even a blush (see #14). But at its core, the advice is solid, if conservative. For example, when it comes to pairing jewellery with your…

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06.05.2019

INTRODUCING: The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good”

The substantial and subtly blue IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good” is the 13th (unlucky for some, but clearly not IWC) edition watch celebrating the Schaffhausen-based brand’s partnership with the Laureus Sport for Good, which leverages the power of sport to end violence, discrimination and disadvantage. It’s a cause as worthy as the watch is good-looking.  The Aquatimer Chronograph is a large, sporty timepiece. It’s 45mm of pure grunt — aggressive case architecture and lots of clever tech: the internal bezel that you operate by turning the external one, the flyback chronograph movement and a case that’s been…

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05.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Farer’s growth begs the question – when does a microbrand stop being micro? 

Broadly speaking, microbrand is a term used to describe smaller watch brands — typically with few staff, outsourced production and a direct-to-consumer business model. The other thing to note is that there is a lot of them, typically waxing and waning in terms of favour. But sometimes these brands gain a critical momentum that starts to stretch the category ‘micro’. Farer is one such brand. I’ve always had a soft spot for the UK-based brand. Initially, their bright and colourful designs drew my magpie eye, and then when we reviewed a GMT and a diver, the quality won me over. And…

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04.05.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Because of course Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh wears a custom, blacked-out Patek Nautilus

In case you’ve been living under a particularly unfashionable rock for the last few years, you’ll know the name Virgil Abloh. Since March 2018 he’s served as Louis Vuitton’s creative director, while still doing his duty as CEO of the Milan-based fashion house Off-White, and being long-term buddies with Kanye West. He also wears a Patek Nautilus, but not a ‘regular’ one.  While he certainly didn’t start the trend for high-end streetwear, he’s an important player in the space, and fond of riffing on (and perhaps even appropriating) design signifiers of other well-known brands. In this context, his choice of watch…

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04.05.2019

Is the Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K the best blue dial under a grand?

Editor’s note: We’re big fans of the new Samurai, it’s one of Seiko’s all-time classic dive watches. We’re also fans of beautiful blue dials. Which is why the Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K is a watch we can really get behind. Read on for our in-depth review … The story in a second: Same great watch, brand new dial. The centrepiece of Seiko’s 2018 Prospex collection is, without doubt, the brand new and very blue ‘Save The Ocean’ series, offered in Turtle, Samurai and solar variants. It follows on from the recent Black Series and Blue Lagoon. But while last…

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01.05.2019

Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models

Since their inception in 1990, Nomos Glashütte have had a remarkably clear visual and stylistic aesthetic. Clean and refined. Utilitarian, leaning towards the dressy. Unmistakably German. Or, to use the shorthand — Bauhaus.  In the earlier years of Nomos, this distinctive styling was paired with some solid watchmaking, and a very strong value proposition. All this combined to earn Nomos a cult following. But Nomos wasn’t content to rest on these laurels, instead embarking on a quiet, and quite deliberate quest to expand their product offering and, in industry parlance, expand their key verticals. So a few years ago we…

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30.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Menswear legend Sid Mashburn explains his watch collection

Sid Mashburn is a veteran menswear designer with an eponymous label. He also has quite nice taste in watches. Mr Mashburn, his clothes and his watches are all on show in this video from US-based retailer Crown & Caliber.  I’ve found that there’s usually a degree of overlap in the Venn diagram of clothes guys and watch guys, and this video certainly supports that thesis. Clearly, Sid comes from the sartorial side of the fence and looks at watches primarily through that lens, which is always interesting. What I loved most, though, was just how well worn his mid ’80s Rolex…

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30.04.2019

HANDS-ON: The Chopard  L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier brings style, substance and sustainability to the table

Chopard is one of the great secrets of the watchworld. The brand, which is better known for its feminine jewellery collections, produces some truly phenomenal watches, of a style and quality that rivals the best in the business.  Take, for example, the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist Qualité Fleurier (QF). It’s a gorgeous dress watch with a much feted movement, a quirky (but not too quirky) design, and some serious integrity in the production process, thanks to Chopard’s ongoing commitment to Fairmined.  Let’s start with design. The watch is very nicely sized at 40mm across by 7.7mm tall, with small seconds,…

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28.04.2019

Two faces, both awesome. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold

Editor’s note: The Reverso is, hands down, one of the all-time classic watch designs. And now, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold is double the fun with twice the dials …  Believe it or not, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the original sports watches. The oft-quoted origin story about this iconic rectangle is that it was the dusty polo fields of colonial India that gave birth to the reversible watch, which could be easily flipped to protect the delicate dial during the rough and tumble of the chukka. That was way back in 1931, and in the subsequent…

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28.04.2019

INTRODUCING: Rado’s hit Captain Cook Automatic now comes in champagne

We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook models, but now it’s official. The fan favourite Rado Captain Cook Automatic in 37mm is now offered in a limited edition champagne (or to give its official, but less romantic, name — brown sunbrushed) dial.  Dial aside, the details are unchanged: polished steel case, ceramic bezel insert in black, boxed sapphire crystal and automatic movement with 80 hours of juice. But this time around, there is a quite cool new addition, in the form of a handy leather travel case that includes space…

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27.04.2019

LIST: Military style and substance – 5 of the best field watches available right now

Field watches are a bit of a paradox — at once a very broad, yet quite niche category. Essentially these are watches originally made for military use — on battlefields. But having said that, there’s also many other tropes of military-inspired watches, like pilot and dive watches. The easiest way to think about it is, while those watches are made for a quite specific purpose, field watches are generalists. They have to be tough enough to handle some pretty rough conditions, and do their job of telling the time quickly and reliably. If we’re honest, a lot of the time…

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26.04.2019

HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire hits the mark

The Mark XI was the first watch that really got me ‘into’ watches, and it has endured over the decades as an icon of good, utilitarian design. Its influence has been very visible in IWC’s Pilot’s family over the years, but this watch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, might be the closest we’ve seen IWC come in a long time to hitting that mark in a regular production model (sorry about the pun, I couldn’t help it).   There are three main reasons why this watch is so great: the dial, the case and the movement. All these elements…

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Baselworld bought 25.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of Baselworld looks like

One of the top three questions on the lips of watch lovers these days is about the lifespan of Baselworld. Well, hold onto your hats because Hodinkee, in the form of the indomitable Joe Thompson, has put together a pretty clear roadmap as to what the future of the fair looks like.  And I’ve got to say, I’m partially convinced. Yes, I was sceptical coming out of Basel 2019, which was sedate (to put it politely), but apparently that was partially planned, as the big revelations and transformations are coming from 2020 onwards. TL;DR version: more experiential, more new audiences…

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24.04.2019

NEWS: Gold Rolex Daytona gifted by F1 legend Ayrton Senna to be auctioned in Geneva

Geneva watch auction season is rolling around again, and one of the stars of the show is this watch, a 1989 Rolex Daytona in gold. It’s being auctioned by Phillips, at their Geneva Watch Auction: Nine, on May 11 and 12.  From the dial side, it seems to be a stock standard reference 16528; in good condition, sure, but nothing super special. Turn it over and it all begins to make sense.  “A Angelo da Ayrton 1978 [From Angelo to Ayrton]” This watch was a gift from Ayrton Senna, one of Formula 1’s  most gifted racers, a man who died…

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21.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Tissot 1973 Chronograph is funk-tastic

Man, Tissot has a great back catalogue. That’s a fact that’s easy to forget sometimes, especially as the Swatch Group brand is a big player in a more modern, sporty space.  But they’ve certainly got some great heritage pieces (like the OG Visodate) in their lineup, and this on point ’70s wonder, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph, inspired by a chronograph from (you guessed it) 1973. I mean, just look at those orange details, that rally strap, the wide-bezelled cushion case. This is ’70s funk on point. Love it.  Head over to Gear Patrol for the specs. 

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Chronometry – TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph 21.04.2019

VIDEO: Blue steel – a closer look at the TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph

One of the big hero releases from Baselworld 2019 was the brand new TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph. Firstly (and perhaps most importantly), it’s a good-looking watch — it looks very much at home on the wrist of Mr Patrick Dempsey, for example. It’s a neat, stylish three-hander that TAG Heuer are billing as a modern adventurer’s watch, leaning on the Autavia’s golden age of motorsports heritage. The dials are on trend — the smoky blue looks good in contrast to the glossy ceramic bezel and the earthy brown leather strap. But it’s more than just a pretty face — there…

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19.04.2019

HANDS-ON: Is this the most accessible true worldtimer on the market right now? The Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer

Worldtimers — which allow you to, at a glance, quickly determine the time anywhere across the globe — aren’t the most common complications. And typically, this level of mechanical wizardry comes at a cost. Typically. This handsome fella, the C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer from UK-based outfit Christopher Ward, bucks the trend. Before we delve into the details, it’s worth a quick recap of the major types of travel watches. A GMT or dual time watch is simple enough — displaying a second time zone in either 24 or 12 hour time respectively (if the latter, you typically get a day/night indicator…

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19.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Timex’s new watches are Made in America … sort of

Even though they might not be as premium a name as their Swiss counterparts, Timex is a legendary company with a long history and one of the greatest ad lines of all time. Who hasn’t heard, “It takes a licking and keeps on ticking”?  In recent years, Timex has been proactive in exploring that legacy, in a series of limited production pieces. The latest step in this journey is the Timex American Documents #001 collection, which is cool, if a little wordy. The schtick here is the Made in America designation. Timex has used local suppliers for all of the…

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18.04.2019

VIDEO: Get your engines running with the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin special edition 

Cars and TAG Heuer is a match made not just in heaven but also in heritage, no doubt something that the marketing departments of other watch brands envy deeply. If you’re in any doubt, have a look at this history of timekeeping in F1. But, back to the matter at hand — the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Aston Martin special edition.  This watch was created (in part) to celebrate the partnership between the prestigious car marque and the Swiss house. And I’ve got to say, it’s a pretty attractive proposition. The honeycomb dial (inspired by the DBS Superleggera, natch)…

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18.04.2019

INTRODUCING: Casio’s MTG-B1000RB is somewhere way over the rainbow

This watch is not for the faint of heart. Not only does the Casio MTG-B1000RB possess the legendary qualities of toughness for which G-Shock is famous, it’s also got one heckuva strong look.  The look is achieved via vivid treatment of the metal bezel portion of the watch; it’s a rainbow-hued ion-plating treatment and, boy, is it a sight to behold. But before I wax lyrical about the glory of rainbow bezels, how about some backstory. The MT-G family was introduced by Casio way back in 1999, which means (and the maths wizards are already three steps ahead here) that…

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17.04.2019

VIDEO: Which TAG Heuer Carrera is right for you?

If you head on over to the TAG Heuer website and click on the Carrera collection, you will see a lot of watches (in Australia there are more than 200 individual models on offer). To say you’re spoiled for choice is an understatement. If you delve a little deeper, you’ll quickly discover that while these TAG Heuer Carreras all have the same family name, there’s some serious diversity going on in the looks department. From large modern sports pieces to more slender time-only options, the Carrera really is a broad church. So, in an effort to help you out, we’ve…

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17.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This unique Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho is coming up for auction. The big question is, how much will it go for?

Vacheron Constantin is famous for its ability to create custom or one-off watches for clients (to learn more about their Les Cabinotiers department, click here). And given the brand’s exceptionally long history, it should come as no surprise that Vacheron Constantin has been making custom pieces for a long time indeed. Phillips is auctioning off one such piece at their Geneva auction, a piece unique from the 1930s known as “Don Pancho”. This watch was the first to feature the combination of minute repeater, calendar and retrograde date, and is, by happy coincidence, undeniably stylish. It’s an interesting auction lot.…

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16.04.2019

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – not your average chronograph

The Defy is playing an increasingly important role in Zenith’s lineup — offering a modern alternative to the Pilot’s line that has dominated the discussion for so long. And there’s a lot to like about it — modern style with a hint of retro flavour. And while the Defy spans the spectrum from accessible to ultra high-end, the watch we’re looking at today — the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 — sits neatly in the middle, adding a quintessentially Zenith complication to the sporty 44mm package.  That complication is, of course, the chronograph — and not just any chrono, but…

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16.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 6 watch podcasts you should be listening to right now

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ll probably have realised that podcasts are hot AF RN. And amidst the true crime and soft, NPR-esque tones of highbrow interviewers sits a growing niche of horology-themed pods. Robin Swithinbank (a modern gentleman if ever there was one) asks a selection of the industry’s heavyweights what watch-related audio goodness they fill their ears with on the daily commute.  The answers are strong, and bear more than a passing resemblance to my own subscription list. Hodinkee is the obvious choice, but the excellent Blamo! gets some love (remember that time Andy chatted to…

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15.04.2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium

In the underwater realm of dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is an undisputed master. Initially released in 1953, this prototypical dive watch was instrumental in reframing the rules of the game, and defining the modern dive watch.  It’s to be expected then that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has been an enduring feature of our horological landscape ever since, being realised in countless different versions over the years. And this is the latest.  The big story here is the titanium case: 45mm across, and rated to 300m, but refreshingly lightweight. Into that mix we get the traditional black Fifty Fathoms…

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15.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Proof these 5 watches are tougher than you could ever be

Watch brands love to hang their proverbial hat on the strength and resilience of their timepieces, but oftentimes these claims are just that — claims. Sometimes, though, these slightly-too-tall tales are backed up with hard facts. That’s the case with these five watches here, from Rolex’s deepest of divers (and bonus James Cameron) to Casio’s epically tough G-Shock and Bremont’s high-flyer. All feats of derring-do and destruction are illustrated in eye-wincing detail. Head to Gear Patrol for the wrap-up … if you can handle it. 

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13.04.2019

LIST: 4 Grand Seiko Snowflakes – one for every season

For many, Grand Seiko is synonymous with Snowflake, and for years there was only one Grand Seiko Snowflake to choose. Now, as the prestigious Japanese brand becomes better known in the world, that landscape is changing, with more of those delicate, gorgeous dials making their way across the world. And, in the manner of Vivaldi’s most famous work, we’re breaking it down, four seasons-style. Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA259   Spring is brought to us courtesy of the SBGA259, which doesn’t deviate too much from the original, but adds a few blossoming buds of colour in the form of gold-tone hands and…

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12.04.2019

VIDEO: 4 new watches that herald Grand Seiko’s dressy revolution

One of the strongest themes in Grand Seiko’s Basel 2019 showing was the pivot to dressy, slightly thinner pieces. We saw two new movements (both mechanical and Spring Drive) cased in a range of (typically gorgeous) new models. And while Grand Seiko’s design hallmarks are there — namely in the exceptional dials and the quality of finish — there were a few elements that set a significant new tone for the brand, particularly the thinner, more ergonomic case profiles, and manually wound movements. It’s a strong start, and it’s also just that — a start. We’re going to see lots more…

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11.04.2019

INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire

Hublot is, in many ways, a brand given to extremes. Or, at least, not doing things by halves. Their latest twin takes on the powerful MP-11 is a clear case (if you’ll pardon the pun) in point.  If you’re not au fait with the MP-11, it’s a fairly impressive piece of tech that is an evolution of 2013’s LaFerrari. The key feature of this 45mm watch is the power reserve of 14 days, an astonishing figure that’s achieved through a rack of seven series-coupled barrels that dominate the lower portion of the watch. Winding this beast is achieved either through…

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11.04.2019

INTRODUCING: The Longines HydroConquest, now in black ceramic

Last year, Longines’ core modern dive watch, the HydroConquest, received a significant stylistic upgrade, with a sleeker design and a ceramic bezel. This year, we see Longines give their flagship diver the full ceramic treatment.  On seeing these pictures for the first time, my impression was — who knew the HydroConquest was such a bad beast? The fully black ceramic (Zirconium Oxide, for the materials science nerds playing at home) is stealthy and (perhaps unsurprisingly, given the monochrome colourway) stark. The movement is the L888, a modified ETA with a solid 64 hours of power reserve. For me, with the combination…

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10.04.2019

INTRODUCING: The new Breguet Classique 5177 will have you singing the blues

If there was the platonic ideal of a dress watch, I’m willing to bet that it would look a lot like Breguet’s Classique: simple, elegant, restrained. But for all that, it’s a watch full of subtle nuance and fine details — details that separate it from the rest of the pack.  The white gold case, fluted around the middle, is perfectly circular, something accentuated by that rounded, polished bezel, and the abrupt angularity of the welded, rounded lugs. Inside this 38mm case lies the Cal. 777Q, an automatic equipped — as are all Breguet’s pieces — with silicon technology where it…

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08.04.2019

LIST: Quick! Change! 5 of the best hot-swappable straps on the market right now

It took Apple, and their eponymous watch, to really hammer home the point that the traditional fine watch industry was stuck in the past. No, not with regards to the watch itself — I’m still plenty fine with gears and wheels — no, the real revelation was that it doesn’t have to be so hard to change a strap.  As someone who’s sworn at more flying spring bars than I’d care to admit, that first, buttery-smooth Apple was a revelation. And clearly not just for me. In the following years, the number of tool-free strap-changing methods has increased significantly, heralding a…

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08.04.2019

NEWS: RedBar New Zealand teams up with Magrette to raise money for Christchurch shooting victims

A few weeks ago, New Zealand, Australia and indeed the world were shocked by the horrific violence perpetrated against the Muslim community in Christchurch. In the aftermath of this event, what stood out was the overwhelming response, on all fronts, from political leaders, through to local and international communities. It can be seen in the watch community too, as the New Zealand chapter of RedBar has teamed up with Dion, from Kiwi watch company Magrette, to raffle off two watches, with all funds being donated to the Victim Support’s Christchurch Shooting Victims’ Fund. The watches being raffled off are a…

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07.04.2019

Is this the best Swiss watch you can get for less than a grand?

Editor’s note: Many (many) times we’re asked to recommend a ‘good’ watch at the roughly $1000 price point. The Tissot Visodate, one of the brand’s staple heritage pieces, is always high on the list. It’s not a new release, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t an incredible piece of kit.  Here at Time+Tide we spend a goodly amount of time talking about the latest watch releases. Well, this isn’t one of those times. Instead, today we’re talking about a stone-cold classic that’s as good today as when it was first released – the Tissot Visodate. The Visodate is an historical…

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07.04.2019

LIST: 3 things you need to know about the Seiko Prospex LX collection, according to the man who designed them

Seiko’s Baselworld press conference is one of my few must-not-miss appointments, if only for a much-needed dose of humour. But for me, the real star of this year’s affair was Ken Okuyama. Mr Okuyama is an industrial designer with an eponymous studio, who made his name in the world of prestige cars, with a folio including such epic vehicles as the original Honda NSX, the Enzo Ferrari and the Ferrari California. And while much of his career has been spent with some of the great European marques, he’s recently turned his eyes homeward, working on raising the profile and prestige…

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07.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Going to a watch meet-up? Leave the Sub at home 

Maybe I’m getting old and grumpy (I am), or maybe it’s a genuine shift driven by the increasing visibility and Instagramability of this hobby/lifestyle choice/money pit we call watch collecting, but I’m noticing an increasing homogeneity in what people are collecting. Steel sports this, royal that, unobtainable the other. Where are the weird, interesting and (most importantly) individual watches?  Well, clearly I’m not alone in this, as my Aussie mate Roman has written a piece on just this topic for Scottish Watches (gosh, it’s like a low-key racist joke here — all we need is a bar to walk into).…

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06.04.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Are watches the new bitcoin? 

Well, that’s the somewhat provocative title of this piece by Alex Williams, which cites numerous high-profile celebrities wearing high-ticket price vintage pieces as the driver for this ever-rising tide. For people reading T+T regularly, it’s the tale of ever-increasing premiums on seemingly innocuous sports watches. But, to give credence to the bitcoin hook in the title, there’s a healthy dose of qualified scepticism about the skyrocketing investment potential, and the risks that come with the rewards. The most interesting part for me was the coda of models to watch, which included the usual suspects with a few interesting outliers. Are we ready for…

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05.04.2019

WATCHSPOTTING: IWC’s Big Pilot never looked so small – The Rock rocks a Bronze Spitfire in Las Vegas

Yesterday, Dwayne Johnson touched down in Las Vegas to showcase his new buddy action flick Hobbs & Shaw at CinemaCon, an industry event. But while I’m sure there were explosions aplenty, what really grabbed our attention was something else entirely. What The Rock was wearing. That Ferragamo knit with a palm print is in-credible.  Also, the dude is wearing the brand new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire — which is, let’s be clear, a 46.2mm watch that certainly earns the ‘Big’ moniker — like it’s a dainty 36mm. Nuts.  This particular Big Pilot was released at SIHH earlier this…

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04.04.2019

INTRODUCING: Steely splendour – the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00977 and PAM00978

Bracelets aren’t something you see strapped to Panerai watches too often, which is, I think, a bit of a shame, as that half-moon design is quite distinctive and stylish. But that’s something that’s set to change with two new, silver and steel additions to Panerai’s Luminor Marina family, the PAM00977 and PAM00978. Offered in two case sizes — 977 is the 42mm, and 978 is 44mm — the overall form of the Luminor Marina is well established by now, but aside from the bracelets, there’s a few things worth pointing out. Most obviously, the dial. I don’t know about you,…

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Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver 04.04.2019

VIDEO: A closer look at the Seiko Prospex LX SNR029J

One of the bigger surprises of Basel was Seiko’s announcement of their high-end Prospex LX collection — big, chunky sports watches that feature a level of fit and finish we’ve seldom seen on a Seiko-labelled watch.  And while the initial collection was a drop of six models, the one that we were most interested in, and — I suspect — the most crowd-pleasing number is the SNR029J1, a straight-up-and-down diver — inspired, to no small degree, by the classic Marinemaster 300. If the look is a 2019 update on a tried-and-tested model, the same can be said for the build.…

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03.04.2019

VIDEO: This is what a heritage reissue should look like – the Seiko SLA033

Few things excite Seiko fans as much as a solid historical reissue (or re-creation in Seiko’s parlance), and this year’s limited edition, the SLA033, is about as exciting as they come.  First of all, it’s based on a diver. Indeed, for many of the Seiko cognoscenti, it’s based on the diver, the 6105, a watch that — thanks to its reliability and corresponding popularity with American servicemen involved in the Vietnam War — contributed to growing the popularity of the Japanese brand in America. But what really ensured this humble diver’s place in the history books was its (period-correct) placement on…

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02.04.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s 3 over-the-top picks from Baselworld 2019

If you’ve been reading or watching Time+Tide for more than five minutes, you might have noticed that I’ve got something of a soft spot for watches that are both sublime and ridiculous. And honestly, Baselworld is the best place to see these rare, beautiful birds all in one place. Before they fly the coop into the boutiques, bank vaults and wrists of the international connoisseur cognoscenti. Now, before we get into the timepieces themselves, a quick caveat. When I say “over the top” I mean that in the best possible way. In many ways, this sort of horology represents the…

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02.04.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: That time Batman and Kryptonite collided

Editor’s note: Batman has been on my mind a bit recently, what with his bracelet upgrade. Which brought back this photographic comparison from a few years ago. Cue dramatic theme music … Earlier this year, we witnessed a chance encounter between two giants of both the superhuman and horological pantheons. The showdown took place at dusk, on the shores of Lake Geneva, at Franck Muller’s Watchland. The combatants? None other than the Batman, in the form of Rolex’s GMT-Master II BLNR, versus Superman, in the shape of the Franck Muller Vanguard Carbon Krypton. The Rolex will be a known quantity to…

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5 most unattainable watches 01.04.2019

VIDEO: Our top 3 watches of Basel 2019 from $35,000 and up – featuring Patek, De Bethune and Hublot

I don’t know about you, but when the price point of a timepiece starts to creep beyond the realms of the everyday, things like price points start to get a little abstract. And, let’s be real here — for most people (though perhaps not most people reading this), watches with a sticker price north of $35,000 are definitely not an everyday proposition. But Baselworld is something of a fantasy land, so we thought it only right and proper to indulge in some hypothetical high-end watch speculation. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5726/1A In the land of high-end steel sports watches, the Nautilus…

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01.04.2019

INTRODUCING: Bremont’s Supermarine 500 now offered on innovative inflatable strap

In a watch that was — surprisingly — not shown to media at the brand’s recent townhouse events, Bremont has added to their ‘tested beyond endurance’ tagline with a new strap option for their Supermarine family.  Details around the strap are scarce, but the press release describes how, in the event of a marine mishap, a simple pull of a ripcord causes the rubber strap to inflate, like a life cuff, improving your buoyancy, and the chances of the watch surviving the mishap unharmed.  No official word on who Bremont worked with in the development of this technology, but given…

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01.04.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: That time Cameron felt sorry about his wrist stalking …

Editor’s note: One of the things watch people like to bond over is the sighting of something uncommon, stylish or downright cool. But sometimes our laser-like wrist focus goes too far, as Cameron is about to explain … To all the strangers on the streets, in the cafes, and just generally going about your own business … I have no shame in admitting that I am a wrist stalker. If you’re a regular reader, then chances are you’re one, too. We all do it. Some of us are just better than others and can pick a watch from across the…

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5 most unattainable watches 30.03.2019

VIDEO: Ceramic, tattoos and a sneaky Patek – Felix’s Basel 2019 picks from $10,000 – $35,000

Usually in this sort of video I try to honour the rules. Because you never know, maybe you actually are in the market for a brand new watch somewhere between 10 and 35K. Odd, but not impossible. And if that’s the case, I don’t want to harsh your vibe by sneaking something in that’s out of the parameters. But you know what? That’s what I did here. The Patek is, asides from being pure unobtanium to mere mortals, well about 35K AUD. But it’s so pretty, I just had to bend the rules.  Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic As soon as…

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30.03.2019

LIST: Beautiful, new, and now in blue – 3 core Vacheron Constantin watches get a dial makeover

Traditionally, the blues are associated with sadness or hard times in life. However, that’s definitely not the case over at Vacheron Constantin, as these new blue-dialled additions add a bright new take on some of the brand’s core pieces. But, these three blues are not the same, each is different in shade or finish, and has been created specifically to complement the character of the collection in which it sits. Here are our three picks … The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue As far as collections go, the Fiftysix is Vacheron Constantin’s newest – loaded with mid-century…

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28.03.2019

VIDEO: Colour, controversy and a streamlined case – Felix’s top Basel 2019 watches under $10,000

Baselworld 2019 was a fairly subdued affair, but that didn’t stop me from ferreting out three (very very different) pieces that reminded me what my love of watches was all about.  Tudor Black Bay P01 Yup, I know. All y’all were very much not into this piece. And you know what, on paper (or Instagram, as the case might be), I was with you. But on the wrist it’s a very different picture, and I’d suggest holding judgement until you see this Tudor IRL. And to be honest, it’s more interesting than another suite of ‘regular’ BB dial variations.  Zenith Defy…

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27.03.2019

HANDS-ON: White heat – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic

I’m not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm of blinding white ceramic, proves this point. Do me a favour, take a minute and check out another version of this self same design. Now, look at the watch below. It’s a marked difference. With the matt ceramic case, open-worked dial (replete with that signature…

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26.03.2019

LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019 

Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore.  The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both the style and engineering sense). It’s a completely new movement, and full of nice engineering details. It also boasts a lot of user-focused details, like that GMT. It’s a really useful combination of complications wrapped up in a wafer-thin package. The yin to the Chronograph’s…

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25.03.2019

VIDEO: Up close and personal with 3 very complicated Vacheron Constantin watches

A little while ago, I had a very good day at work. That’s because my job involved spending some quality time with three exceptional Vacheron Constantin watches, which just happened to be in Melbourne. The first was the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin — a very classic (and slender) execution. Then there was the gorgeous Traditionnelle Tourbillon, with a dial dominated by a mesmerising tourbillon that I could easily get lost in. And finally, the Traditionnelle Grandes Complication Equation of Time – a watch that really shows just what sort of artistic engineering marvels Vacheron Constantin is capable of. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony…

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24.03.2019

LIST: 6 Seikos you need to know from Basel 2019 

You can get a pretty good sense of the overarching themes of Baselworld by listening to the chatter in the halls, press centre and even the sausage cart outside. And, along with smaller crowd sizes and uncertain futures, one of the main conversational themes was the size of brand collections. In press conferences, words like ‘focused’ and ‘consolidated’ abounded. In short, brands weren’t releasing many watches.  One exception was Seiko. The Japanese powerhouse has so many lines (though to be fair these are becoming increasingly codified and coherent) and plenty to choose from, so much so that I had a…

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23.03.2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Diver’s Re-creation Limited Edition SLA033

Seiko’s archive is full of exceptional and much-loved dive watches. One of the brightest lights in this pantheon is the 6105, a real workhorse of the 1970s, and a distinctive one at that — thanks to its large, cushiony case and a crown at four. And while the visuals of the watch certainly didn’t hurt, it’s the combination of good (for the time) water resistance of 150m, Seiko’s reliable build quality and a non-prohibitive price that made this watch such a hit — especially with American soldiers in Vietnam. It’s in this context that the watch received its most famous…

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23.03.2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia

Bronze — that gold-toned alloy that only gets better with age — has continued its domination of the watch world, and the latest brand to be converted is TAG Heuer, who this week released two bronze versions of their brand new three-handed Autavia.  Structurally, it’s the same as the steel Autavias — 42mm across, powered by a Calibre 5 movement running the impressive new Isograph spring, and worn with straps that utilise a smart new quick-change system. But on the aesthetic front, the warm metal, shiny ceramic bezel, smoky green dial, and aged ivory luminous material create a compelling synergy that’s exemplary…

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Our top 5 dive watches of 2019 23.03.2019

VIDEO: This is what Tudor’s 3 top 2019 releases look like on the wrist

It’s testament to the power and ongoing evolution of Tudor’s blue-chip Black Bay family that our top three picks from Baselworld 2019 are all Black Bays, and also — from a distance at least — look very different indeed.  Without a doubt, the most discussed and most genuinely novel watch of the bunch (and perhaps of the whole fair) is the Black Bay P01. While the dial bears a lot of the hallmarks of the Black Bay, the case is Something. Else. Entirely. Long, with a blocky crown guard at four, and a steel bi-directional 12-hour bezel that’s held in place…

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best Rolex GMT-Master 22.03.2019

VIDEO: The 3 new Rolex releases that had everyone talking at Baselworld 2019 

In the weeks and days leading up to Basel, the tension, speculation and near-hysteria around Rolex’s impending releases is palpable, and this year was no different. And while the popular predictions in the lead-up to Baselworld 2019 were the usual mix of near misses and safe guesses, that didn’t stop the Rolex watches — especially the sports watches — from being the most talked-about pieces of the fair.  The Yacht-Master on Oysterflex has, since its debut in 2015, been one of the most distinctively modern models, with its matt cerachrom bezel and understated bracelet. This year saw two significant changes…

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22.03.2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer’s latest releases from Baselworld 2019

TAG Heuer’s Basel 2019 collection had a particularly clear focus, and that focus was Autavia. It’s a watch inspired by TAG Heuer’s enviable heritage — Autavia is a combination of automotive and aviation, and dates back to when Heuer was making cockpit timers in the 1930s. This latest version is a clear nod to the past, without being a fully blown reissue. It’s got details to boot too, like Arabic numerals made from solid blocks of luminous material, a series in subtle rich colours that, thanks to their texture and airbrushed finish, are eye-catching and interesting. The insides are also notable,…

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21.03.2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 – thinner, dressier

Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 and, boy, does the Spring Drive — that unique trifecta of electronic, kinetic and magnetic energy — feature strongly. But not just the Spring Drives you know and love, with that arching power reserve at eight. No, in honour of the movement’s 20th anniversary, there are new manually wound versions, including this super-slender, refined and dressy option. Shown here in steel, it’s known as SBGY003 This is a Grand Seiko like you’ve never seen before. First, the case is so well-sized — 38.5mm across by 10.2mm thick is elegant, restrained…

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21.03.2019

VIDEO: Our pick of the best Grand Seiko watches of 2019, fresh from Baselworld 

There’s a unifying theme to Grand Seiko’s 2019 collection – and no, it’s not the exquisite dials or case work, though those are all very much in evidence. No, this year it’s all about the mighty Spring Drive, a movement (which we’ve explained here) that is unique to Grand Seiko, and appropriately enough, 20 years old.  There’s a new take on the most complicated Spring Drive of all,  the 9R96, with a GMT and Chronograph. This year we see it like never before — in a watch that’s a suitably plus-sized tribute to Japan’s most famous monster, Godzilla. The SBGC231G…

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21.03.2019

VIDEO: Seiko has just announced the Prospex LX collection – these are the watches and what you need to know about them

Prospex is Seiko-speak for “Professional Specification”, a family of professionally oriented tool-watches that was born in 1968 and built to last. And, Seiko being Seiko, that build quality is legendary. As such, these watches have attracted a cult following, in both the actual and desk-diving fraternities. Now, at their press conference at Baselworld 2019, Seiko just upped the stakes once more, with the Prospex LX. A series of (for now) six watches that are gloriously over-specced, premium Prospex watches. There are three watches in plain steel, and three blacked-out variants. Prospex LX — built around the timeless pillars of sea, land…

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21.03.2019

LIST: A quick look at the hottest Tudor watches of Basel 2019

Tudor’s Baselworld 2019 collection is always a hotly anticipated affair, and this year the Shield offered some stylish new takes on existing models, and a distinctive diver no one saw coming.  Tudor Black Bay P01 One of the more interesting, unexpected and downright surprising releases of Baselworld 2019 has to be the Tudor Black Bay P01. To paraphrase that guy from Star Trek: it’s a Black Bay, Jim — but not as we know it. Based on a prototype watch developed in the late 1960s with the US Navy in mind, this Black Bay is pure tool watch. The party trick here…

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21.03.2019

HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph 

It’s no secret that the Octo Finissimo has been a watch that’s kick-started the heart of Bulgari’s recent string of critical hits. And now the collection has — in addition to the core time-only model, minute repeaters and tourbillons — a chronograph.  And not just any chronograph, the world’s thinnest. This watch took Bulgari almost three years to develop (which, in watch terms, is rather quick), and the movement is a slim 3.3mm, shredding a fair bit of width off the previous thinnest – a 4.65mm manually wound movement from Piaget.  This movement isn’t just thin — it’s got a peripheral winding rotor…

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20.03.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: The Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos – where metal meets ceramic

Editor’s note: The thing I love about Rado is that even when they deliver a seemingly demure, classic round watch, they add a twist. In this case made from the futuristic hybrid alloy Ceramos. It’s definitely a watch to check out in the metal – ummm, Ceramos – to really appreciate.  When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra-hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both…

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18.03.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Another look at the 50-year-old Monaco, just in time for Baselworld

Editor’s note: The mighty Calibre 11-powered Monaco turned 50 just a few weeks ago, and what better time, with Baselworld 2019 only hours away, to have a look at one of the defining chronographs of our time. Now, this version here is, no doubt, a stone cold classic. But I’ve got to wonder, what has TAG Heuer cooked up to celebrate the big 5-0? Here’s hoping we find out soon.  The story in a second: 2015 saw TAG Heuer release the bold Heuer 01, the smart Carrera Connected and a faithful re-edition of one of the most iconic watches ever…

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17.03.2019

NEWS: Peak ridiculousness achieved with the unholy fusion of iPhone and tourbillon

So, this exists. Look, I write about high-end mechanical watches on the daily, so I’ve got a pretty high threshold for the superfluous things in life, but this is just ridiculous.  A company called Caviar (of course they’re called Caviar) has revolutionised the world of both watchmaking and iPhones by releasing (and I quote): “the first iPhone with a Tourbillon”. Now, when I first read the press release I thought it was an iPhone case with tourbillon, which, I mean, isn’t the worst. Tourbillons are cool and if you want to spend more money than is sensible on a case…

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17.03.2019

HANDS-ON: A deep-diving Greek, the Ianos Avyssos

In these days of globalised production and democratised design it seems like there are more micro watch brands than ever before and, really, most of them are pretty forgettable, all riffing from the same songbook/factory catalogue. So when something a little left of centre shows up, I tend to pay attention.  The Ianos Avyssos is one such watch. On the surface it’s a dive watch, rated to 300 metres, with the bezel, lume and other bits and bobs you associate with the genre. But pretty quickly you work out that it’s the other elements that separate this watch from the…

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16.03.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: That time the T+T team picked the one watch they’d wear for the rest of their lives

Editor’s note: For some reason, the days before Baselworld always fire up my acquisitive tendencies, however hypothetical. And when it comes to hypotheticals, for watch fans they don’t come much greater than this. One watch. For ever. That’s the question I asked the team last year, and this is what they said … Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It’s clearly hypothetical and I’m pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it’s a perennial watch party favourite, and can be…

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15.03.2019

HANDS-ON: Creux Automatiq evolve their offering with the Diamondback CA-08

Last year I had the pleasure of reviewing the Ghost Explorer, a contemporarily styled sports watch from Australian-based Creux Automatiq. It was a surprisingly sophisticated and solid piece of kit, so when I saw posts of their forthcoming line, the Diamondback, I was keen to get my hands on one.  Fast forward to me opening a DHL package, and unboxing the Diamondback CA-08, and I immediately noticed a few significant differences on this watch from its predecessor – most notably a smaller case size, solid dial and a brand new bracelet. It’s two changes that go a long way to…

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13.03.2019

INTRODUCING: The harder, faster, stronger Hublot Big Bang Ferrari in Magic Gold

The ongoing creative collaboration between Hublot and Ferrari is now in its seventh year, and it doesn’t look like it’s running out of gas any time soon, if the latest offering is any indication. We’re talking about the Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold. The defining feature of this edition of 250 watches is the sporty chassis in Magic Gold. This 45mm case was reworked last year by Hublot and Ferrari’s design team to create a sleeker look, with those case-hugging chrono pushers and cowl-like crown placement. And while the refreshed case is pretty noteworthy, it’s the Magic Gold that still…

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Are Bremont the new kings of mil-spec watches? 08.03.2019

LIST: 4 outrageously cool Australian military Bremonts I spotted at their Melbourne boutique opening

Walking into Bremont’s brand new Melbourne boutique, it doesn’t take long to work out the brand’s military and aviation connection. If the spartan style of the watches didn’t give the game away, the pictures of planes on the walls, the hanging model biplane, and the actual, very battered looking ejection seat sitting front-and-centre kind of give it away.  Not that all those fine details were too easy to spot last night, as the space was packed with people who either loved the brand or were keen to find out more. And amongst the brand’s most die-hard fans are the people…

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08.03.2019

VIDEO: Ulysse Nardin’s 2019 releases prove they’re ready for anything

On the off chance that you’re not, Ulysse Nardin is a brand you should be paying attention to. There’s a real energy around the Le Locle-based manufacture – all the burners are firing. And while one of the brand’s most discussed 2019 releases – the exquisitely painted sexy mermaid pieces of the Classico Manara series — is *too rude* for T+T, there’s still plenty of other, less X-rated horology to discuss. Like the new Freak X, a technically toned down take on their iconic rebel that still delivers high impact with less of a hit to the hip pocket. And then…

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06.03.2019

HANDS-ON: The Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic

Over the years I’ve had a few run-ins with UK-based brand Christopher Ward, having reviewed some of their older world time and jump hour watches. I’ve never tried one of their more mainline pieces on for size though, but when I saw the press renders for the C65 Trident Automatic I figured it was about time I changed that. The C65 Trident is an attractive piece, a neo-vintage diver that offers a strong blend of today’s practicality and yesterday’s charm. Clocking in at a decent 41mm across, and 11.5mm high, this stylish steel chap is offered in either blue or…

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05.03.2019

VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019

Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, and that statement piece (literally, it was all about the statement of the watch industry’s environmental obligations) did not disappoint in real life (again, literally). Another high-level statement that impressed in real life was the exceptionally minimal Swiss Alp Concept Black — I just shudder…

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27.02.2019

VIDEO: New Traditions – taking a look at the Rado Tradition 1965

There’s few things I like more in watchland than being surprised. Sadly, it doesn’t happen too often. But when it does, it’s always memorable. And being in Rado’s booth at Basel last year was one of those moments. I had seen the large Tradition 1965 on display and dismissed it without a thought. Who needs a plus-sized rectangular watch, I thought to myself.  Turns out, me. When I put this watch on I was blown away at how comfortable it was (it wears very well for the shape, and the titanium case keeps the weight down), and the shape of…

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27.02.2019

INTRODUCING: The Bremont MBIII 10th Anniversary limited edition

Bremont is a brand built, to no small degree, around meaningful collaborations — particularly those in the aerospace sector. And of these relationships there’s one that holds pride of place and speaks to the heart of the British brand – Martin-Baker.  Martin-Baker has, since 1946, been one of the most important suppliers of ejection seats and escape systems. Their seats are used on more than 80 aircraft types and have saved 7595 lives. This year marks a decade of partnership with Bremont. The watch collection that is the fruit of this partnership is the Martin-Baker line, a decidedly modern take…

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26.02.2019

HANDS-ON: The sustainable Submersible, Panerai’s Submersible Mike Horn Edition, PAM00984

There were a lot of very interesting watches released at SIHH. Oftentimes, this interest was centred around complication — and rightly so, it’s really the watch industry’s traditional bailiwick. But for me, one of the most interesting collections overall was Panerai.  Panerai, while certainly accomplished at the higher end of the spectrum, tends not to play the complication game, which is entirely in keeping with the brand’s rough and tumble history. Instead, they went down a different (and perhaps more significant in the long run) route. Panerai’s SIHH 2019 releases were exclusively Submersible models, several of which tie into Panerai’s…

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25.02.2019

LIST: 3 well-dressed men straight up wrist flexing at the 2019 Oscars

There’s an argument to be made for a subtle sartorial flex (and it’s an argument that Barack Obama definitely won with his Rag & Bone “44” bomber jacket btw). Class, elegance, all that jazz. But there’s an equally strong statement to be made for putting your best foot forward, and expressing yourself. Something these three fellas are very familiar with.  Bradley Cooper and his IWC Big Pilot Big Bradley Cooper has been filling out the role of a 21st century interpretation of a classic Hollywood leading man, wearing a pin-sharp Tom Ford tux, and bringing his mum along to the…

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25.02.2019

VIDEO: Game, set, match…point. A closer look at Rado’s HyperChrome Match Point

Sports tie-in watches play a — if you’ll pardon the pun — dangerous game. On the one hand there’s a lot of gloss (and potential sales) to be earned from the association with an event that’s under the spotlight. The downside, though, is you might end up with a watch that looks more like a souvenir than a fine piece of precision engineering. This Rado HyperChrome Match Point walks this line just fine. To most casual — and even closer — viewers, it’s a regular Rado chronograph, complete with the high-tech ceramic case and bracelet so synonomous with Rado, as well…

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21.02.2019

VIDEO: Rado’s off-centre DiaMaster proves that life isn’t always balanced

If you’re looking for a watch that’s a little left-of-centre style-wise, look no further. Rado’s idiosyncratic DiaMaster takes many of the conventions of fine watchmaking and turns them, if not on their heads, at least a little bit sideways. And the resulting watch is, it must be said, quite charming. Of course, there are still some familiar Rado hallmarks on display, like the high-tech ceramic case. There’s also an ever-reliable automatic movement that isn’t content to be relegated to the caseback, instead taking centre stage on the dial side — to great effect. The case is hefty, at 43mm, and…

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21.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Glashütte Original gets spicy with two new pumpkin-hued Sixties models 

Hold onto your hats because Glashütte Original has just dropped another dose of exceptional colour, in the form of the 2019 edition of the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date. In case you don’t recall last year’s version, it was a pretty exceptional green (here’s a closer look) and a very popular choice. It was also one of the greatest examples of green being a breakthrough trend for 2018. Now, we don’t think that this fiery orange will have broad cross-sectional appeal, but if you’re a fan of the colour, the chances are good that you will love this pair of…

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20.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Another look at the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ203

Editor’s note: Basel is just around the corner, which means that I’m spending more time than is strictly healthy speculating on what configurations of complications we might be seeing from our favourite brands … like Grand Seiko. But you know what? It would be a hard task indeed to improve on the long tall drink of water that is this Grand Seiko GMT.  If you were looking for a go-anywhere-do-anything type watch (and honestly, aren’t we all?), then a stylistically versatile steel GMT on a bracelet would tick a lot of the boxes. And as far as versatile steel GMTs go,…

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20.02.2019

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Silver 

Zenith is rather proud of the fact — and understandably so — that they hold the trademark for the “Pilot” name on watches, so it makes sense for them to proudly emblazon the name on the dials of their aviation-inspired pieces. This latest limited edition is extra special (also mentioned on the dial), because of its uncommon construction. The design of this Pilot is — well — pure pilot, with its large, classically shaped 45mm case, even bigger onion crown, stylised Arabic numerals and cathedral hands, replete with a suitably rugged calfskin strap (with an extra, somewhat mysterious, layer of leather…

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19.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Golden years – when to rock the heavy metal

Editor’s note: The other week I caught up with a mate who had recently come to the inevitable realisation that he needed a yellow gold Day-Date on his wrist. He struggled with the stigma of gold for ages (yellow gold AND a Rolex to boot), before finally reconciling that it was, by all metrics, awesome. And that got me thinking back to this instructional guide from Andy Green … You know who you are, and you know why you’re here — and it’s totally fine. You’ve found yourself at the inevitable crossroad that all collectors come to. You’re finally in the position…

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19.02.2019

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Marine Chronograph ref. 5527

If I’m being honest, this is one of the less “Breguet” watches Breguet has released in recent years. It’s an unconventional mix of traditional features, in a much more contemporary package. All the key design features are there: the fluted case, the hands and the elaborately guillochéd dial, but this watch is a world away from their Classique collection, while still being undeniably Breguet. It also — and this is a key point — doesn’t look too much like anything else in the crowded field of high-end sports chronographs. And make no mistake, this is a high-end sports chronograph. One…

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16.02.2019

LIST: 6 things I want (and hope) to see at Baselworld 2019

I don’t want to sound too hyperbolic, but Baselworld 2019 will be make or break. The once grand fair has been navigating turbulent waters for a while now, and last year’s mass exodus by Swatch Group brands ripped a hole in the hull that almost sunk it. This year’s fair will be smaller again, and whether or not the organising body has done enough to keep remaining exhibitors happy remains to be seen. It will also be an interesting year for watch releases. Brands are increasingly favouring a drip-feed of digital drops rather than the Baselworld grand reveal, and we’re…

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15.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

In the last few years, skeletonised watches have undergone a renaissance. Once overly designed and overwrought, at some point this distinctive genre segued from niche to very nice indeed. And Jaquet Droz’s Skelet-One is a great example of this new breed. Clean and simple, rather than ornate, is the name of the game for this less-is-more take on the classic Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde figure-eight dial layout. Last year we had a look at the Skelet-One in gold, and now they’ve added a dose of ceramic to the mix. And honestly, I think this is the way to go. What…

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13.02.2019

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin – now on a fully gold bracelet 

When it comes to Vacheron Constantin’s SIHH releases, there’s no doubt the pieces that were the talk of the town (and rightfully so) were the epic Twin Beat and the slightly less epic but epically attractive Overseas Tourbillon. And I get it, they’re both great watches. The Twin Beat is a triumph of clever engineering and the Overseas Tourbillon is downright gorgeous. But the heart wants what the heart wants. And the Vacheron Constantin my heart wanted wasn’t really a new watch at all. But, instead, an existing piece on a new bracelet. And, boy, what a difference a bracelet…

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12.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Only the toughest – 6 awesomely over-designed watches

Editor’s note: First of all, let me state that Cam nailed this list. He’s pulled a bunch of bangers out of left field, and they’re all very much fit for purpose. They’re also surprisingly colourful and, it must be said, far tougher than you really need.  There are watches that are tough, and then there are watches so tough that they’re guaranteed to survive in even the most extreme environments, even if you wouldn’t. We’re talking over-engineering to the point where no man has been before. Watches that can take on the most dangerous of adventures, that push far beyond…

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12.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune

If the increasingly frantic targeted ads in my Instagram feed for fancy underwear and/or chocolate are anything to go by, Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Well, if you’re reading this and have left your extravagant-show-of-affection-giftstravaganza run a little late, don’t worry. We — or rather Blancpain — have your back. Say hello to the Blancpain Villeret Valentine Women Quantième Phases de Lune, a delightful limited edition made with Valentine’s Day in mind. Of course, there’s the expected mix of mother-of-pearl dial and liberal sprinkling of sparkly stones in the 33mm red gold case, but what really elevates this…

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11.02.2019

HANDS-ON: Glashütte Original go all out with their contemporary Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

As far as complications go, perpetual calendars are typically classically styled, verging on the stuffy, depending on how well they’re done. Not that there’s anything fundamentally wrong with this – after all, fine watchmaking thrives on tradition. But I can understand the desire to shake things up a little, and throw down some contemporary styles, which is exactly what Glashütte Original have done with this limited edition take on their Senator Excellence PC. Fundamentally, this watch is the same as the ‘regular’ model, a nicely sized 42mm model, with a big panorama date at four (hence the name), moon at…

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11.02.2019

VIDEO: 3 standout Submersibles from Panerai’s SIHH 2019 collection

If you had any doubts about Panerai’s position as kings of the deep, their SIHH 2019 release catalogue would have dispelled them. Panerai’s hero watch is, of course, the Submersible. It’s one of the brand’s most interesting designs, as it honours their historically important case shape (cushiony, with a fairly famous crown guard), while adding a very handy bezel and some more contemporary lines. This year sees Panerai tweak a few more details, playing more with smaller sizes and interesting case materials. Here are our top picks. Panerai Submersible Carbotech 42mm – PAM00960 Carbotech is, without a doubt, a cool…

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Rolex Kermit to buy 10.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Spending a year with the Rolex Submariner 116610LV – AKA ‘The Hulk’

Editor’s note: In the second part of our year-long reviews, Andy tells us what it’s like to Hulk out for a year. Sun’s getting real low … Swiping the debit card on this purchase wasn’t an easy decision. Being someone constantly surrounded by watches, I was more than aware of the endless list of great options within this price bracket. Now, don’t get me wrong, there were some very big temptations along the way, but a Rolex was something I’d been working towards for a little while, and just over a year ago, the time was right. Wearability has always…

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10.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Spending a year with the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 ‘Grey Phantom’ 

Editor’s note: Typically, the watches we review are in our possession for a few days or, maybe if we’re lucky, a few weeks. Sometimes the relationship lasts a little longer than that. Today we’re going to revisit two reviews that were a year in the making. Kicking off with my TAG Heuer … For those who know me and my taste in watches a little bit, the fact that I own a TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 typically comes as a bit of a surprise, as there’s a perception that I like the simpler, smaller things in watch life. For…

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09.02.2019

VIDEO: 5 outstanding Montblanc watches from SIHH 2019

Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc’s top watch guy, the brand’s timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc’s SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a winner. Two hero collections and a range of watches to appeal to a wide range of tastes. Here are our five picks. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE Last year’s complicated two timer was already a good-looking beast of a watch, and this year the Geosphere’s gone green, making it even more Hulk-like. Montblanc…

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08.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde oozes old school cool

Editor’s note: It should be noted, right up front, that the ‘petite’ in this watch’s name refers to the subsidiary seconds dial, not the overall scale of the piece, which is reasonable and substantial all at once. So, with that caveat out of the way, onto the review … In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That’s not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that’s reflected in the strength…

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08.02.2019

HANDS-ON: Moser’s calm and idyllic Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon

Move over Brooke Shields, the Blue Lagoon has a new star – Moser’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon. And, as with all of Moser’s concept line of watches, there’s almost nothing to get in the way of the typically excellent fumé dial. The Blue Lagoon takes its name from the dial colour which, like all of Moser’s watches, is rather difficult to fully capture on film. It’s iridescent, vivid and compelling. It’s also a very greenish blue, which sits in the middle of Moser’s mild-to-wild spectrum of dial colours. And that, at least to my mind, is just the…

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07.02.2019

VIDEO: 5 of the hottest new Cartier watches from SIHH 2019

Over the last few years, Cartier’s watch releases have been consistently impressive, alternating between savvily commercial and outrageously stunning. This year we saw that strong trend continue. Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph The big news was the addition of a chronograph to last year’s wildly popular new Santos. In addition to complication, this model adds some not insignificant bulk. Cartier Tonneau Deceptively simple and unerringly elegant, this quartz-powered Tonneau is a real looker, and as someone with a fairly large wrist, I was surprised how good it looked on me. Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Skeleton This watch is a classic…

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06.02.2019

LIST: 4 awesome everyday watches from SIHH 2019 that you can actually afford

As far as international watch fairs go, SIHH is great. If highly complex, mind-blowing timepieces are your jam, it’s the one for you. After all, it’s the Haute Horlogerie fair. But things get a touch trickier if you (like I suspect many of our readers) are into simpler fare, more suitable for daily duty. Never fear though, for amidst the tourbillons and astronomical complications there’s some incredible value to be had. Like these four watches … Montblanc Heritage Automatic Montblanc’s revamped Heritage collection was one of the real winners from SIHH, a collection oozing in stylish nostalgia and charm. No…

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05.02.2019

INTRODUCING: Grand Seiko has just announced four new slim manual-wind models in the Elegance Collection and, yes, the dials are off the charts

Grand Seiko has, in the lead-up to Baselworld, just announced a brand new movement for the Elegance Collection, four new manually wound, slender watches (three of them limited editions) that look very promising indeed. First things first, this collection is powered by a new manually wound caliber, the 9S63, the brand’s first in eight years. The basics of this hand-wound movement are that it’s got a reserve of 72 hours, and accurate to within +5/-3 seconds a day. More importantly, this movement opens up new design possibilities for Grand Seiko, with its current layout of balanced small seconds at nine…

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05.02.2019

HANDS-ON: Crashing to earth – Piaget’s Altiplano with meteorite dial

Adding variety in the world of ultra-thin watchmaking is tricky. Because in this space, additional complications typically equals extra thickness — and that defeats the aim of the exercise. So instead of working on altering the mechanics, you change the aesthetics, which is just what Piaget has done here with these new additions to the Altiplano family. Before we take a closer look at those spectacular dials, a quick recap on this particular Altiplano. At 40mm across, and with a very simple, traditional round case, this watch is dressy by design. The incredible thinness of 6.5mm makes it almost unimaginable…

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04.02.2019

VIDEO: 5 stunning Jaeger-LeCoultre watches from SIHH 2019

The talk of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth at SIHH was the incredible (and incredibly well-sized) Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, but that rare bird was in hot demand, so we didn’t manage any quality one-on-one time with it. But that’s OK really, as there were numerous other exquisitely finished offerings on hand, from the Reverso and Master families. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel This watch and the two other Master Thins take several design cues from the grand daddy Gyrotourbillon, but in a package that’s in the realm of mortals. The dials are a rich and complex blue guilloché,…

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03.02.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: To beater, or not to beater – what exactly makes a beater watch, that is the question

Editor’s note: It’s one of the watch world’s perennial favourite questions – what makes a beater? After all, those vintage steel Rolex models were designed to be worn, and worn hard. But then again, they’re very expensive. Justin delves into the issue … What can and can’t be dubbed a ‘Beater Watch’ remains a contentious issue among many. Whether ’tis nobler in the mind to let your watch suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take arms against a sea of troubles and shelter your beloved watch from harm. The ponderings of Hamlet seemed oddly fitting one…

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03.02.2019

MY WEEK WITH: The Omega Speedmaster CK 2998

As far as famous watches go, the Speedmaster is way up there. And aside from its famous extraterrestrial exploits, it’s also a real staple of the watch world, which is why a Speedy was a natural choice of wrist wear for my recent Swiss trip. The fact that this trip included spending some quality time with Omega only sealed the deal. The next question was: which Speedmaster? Well, in the end, my decision wasn’t too hard, because even though you’re spoiled for choice, I wanted a more classical iteration, and one with a mix of personality and versatility. So I…

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02.02.2019

VIDEO: 6 of the best new IWC watches from SIHH 2019

One of my highlights of SIHH every year is IWC – and not just because their booth is exceptional; this year it was dominated by an actual gleaming silver Spitfire. No, I like seeing IWC because the watches rarely disappoint, and this year was absolutely no exception. The Pilot’s collection is one of the brand’s iconic staples, and hugely popular in Australia (and, for that matter, around the world). And at SIHH it got some major new additions, mainly in the Spitfire and Top Gun sub families. Spitfire is the more retro of the two, and covered off the classics…

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01.02.2019

HANDS-ON: New balance – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph 

One of the most interesting — and important — new watch releases I saw while in Geneva recently wasn’t shown at SIHH at all. Rather, it was presented by TAG Heuer. On the surface the watch is typically TAG Heuer, in look and indeed nomenclature — it’s called the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph, and has that large, modular case construction that we’re so familiar with by now, along with carbon lugs and bezels that are straight-up cribbed from their recent Carbon capsule collection. The dial texture is a little different, with a hexagonal structure that looks cool and…

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Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch 31.01.2019

INTRODUCING: Bulgari bring back a legend with the Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Few names loom larger in the collective consciousness of horological history than Gérald Genta. He’s one of the few individual designers whose name — because of the strength of his work — stands as tall as the great houses for whom he worked. But later in his career, Genta launched his own eponymous brand which demonstrated a penchant for retrograde displays and Disney characters. Eventually, the Genta brand was acquired by Bulgari, who have continued to evolve some of the great designer’s works under their own name, and to great effect. Which was why this watch, presented recently in Geneva,…

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31.01.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: The most overlooked element in watch design

Editor’s note: Someone I know is in the process of looking for a new watch – a Breitling Aerospace to be specific. Now, on first glance, this weird old ana-digi watch might not have much going for it, but, really, for a watch so light, this watch packs a big punch. And you know why? Well, I don’t want to give the game away, so read on … Case profile. There, I said it. It might not be as sexy as the movement or the dial, but in terms of real-world user-friendliness, it’s the kingmaker or deal-breaker. The problem is,…

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30.01.2019

VIDEO: The most complicated watches of SIHH 2019 – our top picks

OK, here are the watches that put the HH into SIHH, the sort of timepieces that challenge and define exactly what it’s possible to do with a watch on your wrist. These sort of movements take years and years of development, so it’s unreasonable to expect a new one every year, but at this year’s instalment of SIHH, the top end of town was very well represented, with some genuine innovation, and true ingenuity on show. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar One of the real standouts of the show was Vacheron Constantin’s innovative Twin Beat, which boasts twin…

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27.01.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s 3 favourites from SIHH 2019, from $35K and above

If my other two lists (here and here, in case you forgot) had loose themes tying them together, this one is all over the shop, covering off the serious to playful spectrum very nicely indeed. So, let’s start with the serious … A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date It’s larger and thinner, but the real news is the smartly executed date. You’d be forgiven for expecting a date aperture, in line with the time display, but no, Lange opted for an open-worked date disk that looks very nice indeed. Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Skeleton Cartier’s skeleton watches are well known,…

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26.01.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in ceramic and titanium, with no date

One of the most exciting watches of last year was the significantly revamped Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, a modern icon of the brand that managed to sneak into both Andrew’s and my own ‘best of 2018’ lists (so it must be good). Well, the SMP just got a little bit better — Omega has announced a new version, in an oh-so-sexy looking black ceramic case, topped off with a titanium bezel with a matching black ceramic insert. This is a watch case that really works with ceramic: the complex shapes (like those lyre lugs) and mix of brushed and polished…

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25.01.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s top 3 watches from SIHH 2019 – between $10k and $35k

My last list — a trio of well-priced SIHH offerings — could be neatly broken down into a loose theme of air, sea and land. But this trifecta, covering the much broader $10,000 – $35,000 price bracket, is much less easily pigeon-holed. But if I had to find commonalities I could well go with elegant shapes. The Piaget Polo S A case of a simple change making a big difference, I like this rich green take on the sporty Piaget Polo S so much more than I would have expected. It’s an absolute cracker, and a real change in personality…

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23.01.2019

INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia

The day after SIHH, I found myself walking around the cobbled streets of Geneva’s old town. It’s a very different Geneva to the vast, softly furnished halls of the Palexpo, or even the squat monoliths of the famed manufactures, with their clean rooms and airlocks. No, this street was winding, cobbled and, even though the day was sunny, cold. It was a street filled with art galleries and antique stores and, as I was to discover, one of the most exciting watchmakers in the business right now. In many ways, watchmaking is all about light. It’s something that’s incredibly important…

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23.01.2019

INTRODUCING: A vision in red – the brand new Omega De Ville Trésor 125th Anniversary Special Edition

It’s well known that Omega loves an anniversary, but the one that I’m currently celebrating with them in Bienne is quite significant. This year marks 125 years since the Calibre Omega — a 19-ligne movement that was so significant that, a few years after its debut in 1894, the company changed its name to the Omega Watch Company in 1903, and the rest, as they say, is history. But what made the Calibre so significant that it earned the declarative moniker of Omega — the last letter of the Greek alphabet — and the ‘ultimate’ achievement in watchmaking? Well, this…

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22.01.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe may soon be up for sale

Gossip is one of the staples of SIHH and, as far as gossip goes, it doesn’t get much juicier than this. Bloomberg are reporting that Patek Philippe — one of the last great independently held watchmakers — may be considering a sale. Based on a note by analysts Berenberg, there’s industry talk of a sale, which would be expected to cost seven to nine billion euros. Now, write this off as pure speculation, but as the Bloomberg article suggests, there may be some basis to the rumour. The next question: who could buy it? Swatch or Richemont perhaps, but also don’t write…

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20.01.2019

LIST: Felix’s top 3 picks under $10k from SIHH 2019

Look, I’m going to be honest with you. Believe it or not, SIHH doesn’t have a whole lot on offer in the sub $10,000 category. It’s a sweet spot for one or two of the brands, and a handful of others have one or two watches that fit the bill. But even given the fact that there are not too many watches to choose from, I found this a hard trio to settle on. But in the end I settled on three stunners. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire I mean, just look at this thing. Pure, purpose-built perfection. Aside…

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20.01.2019

VIDEO: Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech, the PAM00979

In recent years, Panerai has made some lateral moves, with watches like the more land-based Due. But for SIHH 2019, one of the original dive watch brands was underwater in full force. Their collection was chock-full of Submersibles (which is now a distinct line of its own). Panerai’s Marina Militare watches pay tribute to the brand’s naval roots, and that famous dial text was back this year, and on a watch that looks, frankly, incredible. The big 47mm Carbotech dial is paired with a carbon dial and even a newly designed handset. There’s a lot to like here, but see…

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17.01.2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions

Breitling has just announced three retro takes on their iconic pilot’s watch — the mighty Navitimer — that evoke the golden age of jet travel. The Airline Editions capsule collection consists of tributes to three of the great airlines, Pan Am, Swissair and TWA. Each airline is the subject of nostalgic homage, in the form of a colourful, and undeniably cool, version of the Navitimer 1 B01. The context behind this capsule collection is quite interesting, as these are limited production, limited run watches, rather than a limited edition per se. The purpose behind this approach is to highlight specific…

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17.01.2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Cadran Bleu

Baume & Mercier’s foray into the world of in-house movements resulted in one of the biggest value propositions of 2018, the Clifton Baumatic. Well, this year the simple steel watch with an impressive five-day power reserve was the subject of a stylish makeover, in the form of a blue dial. But not just any blue. The cadran bleu, as it’s called, is a deep, dark graduated blue that veers strongly into black territory at its outer limits. It’s not as bold or flashy as some other graduated blue dials, but it’s also a lot more mysterious as black. Dial change…

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16.01.2019

VIDEO: Felix’s top 10 watches of 2018

Yes, I know it’s mid Jan, and the traditional time for a summary top ten listicle is late December. But you know what I’ve always said? Better late than never. So, here we are, knee-deep in the best watches of SIHH and Andrew and I are engaging in some 2018 reflection. But really, though, these watches are so good that they manage to transcend the amorphous concept of short-lived “novelty” and deserve to be celebrated beyond their initial marketing period. At least that’s how I’m justifying it to myself. So, from Chanel to Omega, sit back and enjoy the ride…

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15.01.2019

INTRODUCING: Panerai’s new America’s Cup partnership and the stealthy Submersible Luna Rossa

2019 is shaping up to be the year of the Submersible for Panerai, with the brand hitting hard with a collection full of their most modern takes on the dive watch. And one of the coolest is the Submersible Luna Rossa, a very cool carbon fibre number made to honour their brand new partnership with the 36th America’s Cup challenger of record, team Luna Rossa, and their AC75. The first watch in this partnership is a 47mm large Carbotech case, and the material takes on a completely different, much more stealthy characteristic here than on the previous Carbotech model, thanks…

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13.01.2019

LIST: 7 things I’m looking forward to seeing at SIHH 2019

It’s one sleep to SIHH, and the watch releases are coming thick and fast, with many of the exhibiting brands giving us a peek at some of their highlight releases. And while some pieces have raised a little more than eyebrows (hello AP!), I’ve got a feeling that for many brands, the best is yet to come. So here is my lightning fast list of what I’m eagerly anticipating (and hoping to see) at SIHH 2019. Audemars Piguet Yep. Code 11.59 is, for better or worse, the talk of SIHH even before the doors are open. And while it’s an…

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13.01.2019

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X, more accessible, but still freaky

Over the last few years, Ulysse Nardin has been greatly expanding its Freak family (a smart move say I), and the latest member is the Freak X, which joins the Freak Out and Freak Vision. Now, before we break down this watch, a quick word about X, which is serving as something of a thematic moniker for the brand this year. It’s a good theme, evoking everything from mystery to gravity to (depending on how many Xs you use) eroticism. All things Ulysse Nardin is quite adept to translating into watch form. Though I can’t help but wonder if UN…

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12.01.2019

LIST: Looking back at Rado’s heritage highlights

Rado isn’t a brand that you typically think of when you think about ‘heritage’. On the one hand this makes perfect sense, as the brand is best known for their decidedly modern materials and avant-garde designs. But on the other, Rado has been around for a while (since 1917), and has a host of great old styles to draw on. And, in recent years, Rado has been more active in doing just that, and we’ve picked our favourites. Naturally, the Captain Cook looms large, in both its faithful — near facsimile grade — models, as well as the larger, more…

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11.01.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: 10 things you need to know about Japan’s grandest watch brand, Grand Seiko

Editor’s note: My love (indeed the collective T+T love) for Grand Seiko is very real. There’s no denying the quality, care and craftsmanship that goes into these watches that (still) manage to be one of the better kept secrets of fine watches. There’s also no denying that the world of GS can be a little, um, esoteric. So if you need a little explainer, or even a refresher, this one’s for you. I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang…

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11.01.2019

HANDS-ON: Peak performance with the very smart Montblanc Summit 2

I’m flying off to Geneva tomorrow, for the watchstravaganza that is SIHH. And on my wrist, as I step onto the plane, will be Montblanc’s latest generation smartwatch, the Summit 2. Now, Swiss brands have been trying their luck at smartwatches for some time now, with the two biggest players in the space being Montblanc and TAG Heuer. And while the first generation of these Silicon Valley X Swiss connected devices demonstrated the steep learning curves and technical limitations of the genre, we’ve come a long way in a few short years. I tried the original Summit, and I’ve got…

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10.01.2019

EDITOR’S PICK: Bremont’s high-flying diver, the Supermarine Type S301

Editor’s note: It might be hard to believe, but Bremont’s signature Townhouse event is just around the corner, and this realisation got us thinking about one of the coolest Bremont releases of last year, the new, and very fresh looking Supermarine Type S301. I wonder if we’ll see any interesting extensions to the line this year … Bremont is a brand fuelled by avgas and the spirit of Icarus. The fledgling British brand has their roots in the sky, as it were. But that doesn’t mean that they’ve neglected other spheres of influence, including motorsports and, as we can see…

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09.01.2019

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold

There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold as the black hole it evokes, there’s another, brighter option out there. The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold, with a more familiar, blue fumé dial. This piece, limited to 50 pieces (and only one in Australia — Melbourne, to be exact), offers, in…

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09.01.2019

NEWS: Chanel steps up their in-house watchmaking capacity with investment in new factory

I’ve been saying for a while now that Chanel are a force to watch when it comes to serious watchmaking. Their recent high-end movements are impressive, to say the least. They’re already investors in Romain Gauthier, and — more recently — F.P. Journe. The latest step in Chanel’s increasing in-house journey is their acquisition of a 20 per cent stake in Kenissi Manufacture. If you’re not familiar with Kenissi, that’s OK, as they’re a fairly new player, currently based in Geneva but moving to a Le Locle facility in 2021. Where things get interesting is the fact that Kenissi is,…

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08.01.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How to perfect product placement on the red carpet

The dust (and hangovers) have settled on the 76th Golden Globes, and on some corners of the internet it seems that the pre-show press pack hustle is a bigger event than the awards themselves. And, given the intense competition from brands in this Instagram age to have that red carpet moment, it’s easy to see why. And while tuxedos and dresses receive the lion’s share of the attention, the wrists are fiercely fought over as well, with Richemont stable brands, such as IWC, Cartier, Montblanc and Jaeger-LeCoultre, particularly well represented. Rami Malek, who won for his turn as Queen frontman…

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five best watches under 1000 dollars 08.01.2019

VIDEO: Tissot’s Chrono XL Classic

Here at Time+Tide we make no bones about our love of Tissot’s heritage offerings, but the truth of it is that those old-style pieces make up a small percentage of the brand’s line-up. Chronographs, in particular big sporty chronographs like this Chrono XL Classic, dominate the brand, at least here in Australia. And it’s easy to see why: this 45mm watch offers plenty of plus-size punch, but enough traditional styling to keep things civil. It’s quartz, which means you get a cool little 1/10th of a second register, for all your ultra-specific timing needs. The Chrono XL Classic is also…

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07.01.2019

VIDEO: What becomes of the open hearted – the Rado True Open Heart

Really, at the heart of the appeal of a mechanical watch is the ticking, whirring escapement that sets the pace. That and the assemblage of wheel and bridges that powers and supports it. So it’s apt then that this Rado cuts to the core quickly: the True Open Heart lives up to its name, exposing its metal innards enough to satisfy the curiosity of the wearer, while still living up to Rado’s strong, and distinct sense of design, with its slick plasma toned ceramic, and a black dial that maintains legibility despite its pared-back nature. Rado True Open Heart Australian…

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05.01.2019

VIDEO: From ceramic to the Captain, 5 of 2018’s best Rado releases

Rado had a great year of releases in 2018, with a diverse mix of watches that played to their traditional high-tech material strengths, as well as to some of their traditional designs. And while ceramic naturally played an important part, it was used in some surprising ways — like when it was mixed with bronze to create a very cool HyperChrome, and mixed with other metals to create the new alloy Ceramos. And then there were the brand’s tributes to their historic Captain Cook models, two similar but different takes on a great old internal bezel diver. And while the…

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01.01.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Wired’s tech take on the smartwatch 

For a site ostensibly about fine mechanical watches we spend a decent amount of time talking and thinking about watches of the smart variety. But we come at the genre (which is, thanks to Apple, the biggest category of watch in the game at the moment) from a fairly particular (dare I say biased) perspective, whereas Wired, one of the most venerable and respected tech news sites in the world, comes at it, it’s fair to say, from another point of view entirely. Which is why the fact that their fundamental experiences with smartwatches so closely mirror my own, right…

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30.12.2018

INSIGHT: David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best

A little while ago, Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two of his Tudor watches. And I’ve got to say, as far as showing what a brand is all about, they’re pretty hard to beat. The first video looks at the first Tudor watch Beckham owned and wore, a 1969 Snowflake Sub, which Beckham describes as an “old, messed up watch”. And while I wouldn’t go quite so far as to say it’s messed up, it has certainly lived a life, with a beautifully faded ghost bezel and some real age…

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29.12.2018

LIST: Felix Scholz’s 5 favourite stories of 2018

For this year’s instalment of the T+T version of “these are a few of my favourite things”, I’m going to substitute noodles, poodles, and brown paper packages tied up with string for videos. So, without any further Julie Andrews’ references, here are five of my favourite videos. Russell Crowe talks exclusively to us about the stories behind his watches, and why he’s selling them Unsurprisingly, our video with the Kiwi who became an actor, who became a star, who collected watches (AKA Russell Crowe) was popular. In fact, it’s our most popular video to date, with a cool half a…

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24.12.2018

VIDEO: Tudor’s 1926 is a classic charmer

One of the more intriguing releases from Tudor this year — and one that didn’t get quite the attention it otherwise would have, thanks to the show-stealing GMT — was the classically styled 1926. Taking its name from the year the Tudor name was registered, it also owes some design cues to this golden era of style. Take, for example, the finely textured waffle dial, with the blued Arabic numerals interspersed with arrow-head markers. Lovely, but also wearable, and entirely wearable nearly 100 years later. The case is well-sized, the movement rock solid, and the solidly made bracelet adds a…

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23.12.2018

HANDS-ON: A flash on the wrist – the carbon and gold TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon

TAG Heuer has never been afraid of trying new things, and the new Carbon collection is proof. To date, it consists of three popular models that have been given a carbon makeover: the Monaco, the Aquaracer and the Carrera. Earlier this week, we showed you the stealthier Carbon Carrera, but today we’re going to make a quick trip to shine town, with the carbon and rose gold model. Now, funnily enough, thanks to the liberal lashings of gold on the dial, crown and lugs, the carbon inclusions on this watch are quite understated, with only the bezel being made of…

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22.12.2018

LIST: 5 Cartier watches we’d love for Christmas

It’s not many sleeps until Christmas, and the spirit of the season has well and truly taken over in the Time+Tide office, and – as so often happens – our idle speculation has turned to watches. Specifically, Cartier’s watches. So, in the spirit of the season, we’ve done a quick whip-around as to what watch we might find ensconced in a red and gold box under the tree. Assuming, of course, that we’ve been nice this year. Andy’s choice – the Santos de Cartier in pink gold You have to wish big when it comes to Christmas, so why not…

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21.12.2018

VIDEO: The big-hearted Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart 

Many of Rado’s case designs lean towards what we can, in air quotes, refer to as ‘designer’. Sleek, modernist offerings that evoke a high-concept design language. The HyperChrome has some elements of these, in the lines of bracelet in particular, but the overall shape is one of their more traditional — a simple, sturdy round watch. However, if that’s the shape, the details and execution here are something else. Firstly, ceramic, and lots of it. And then there’s the open heart, offering a clear view into the inner, automatic workings of this bold watch. And finally, the brown ceramic number…

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20.12.2018

VIDEO: 8 Cartier watches that stand out 

A little while ago I made my way down to Cartier’s Collins Street boutique in Melbourne, spent a little time amidst the glittering plinths and picked out some watches that, for me at least, really epitomise what makes the Maison’s watchmaking so great. Of course there are numerous shapes in attendance, from the circle of the Ballon Bleu through to the bold rectangles of the Tank. Really, though, the common thread through these eight watches is the overall strength of design, and the timelessness of it. All eight of these watches — regardless of shape, case metal and even complications — are…

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19.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Carbon

I’ve always had a bit of a soft spot for the Aquaracer. To my mind, it’s something of an unsung hero in TAG Heuer’s chronograph-heavy line-up. But the modern diver looks the business and, in a water-loving country like Australia, makes sense. It’s also quite a youthful feeling watch, which makes a nice changeup from the current litany of heritage-inspired offerings. And while the Aquaracer has never been particularly colour-averse, it’s somewhat ironic that this stealthy, blacked-out option is all about the colour. It’s offered in three variants, with blue, rose gold or yellow detailing, and today we’re having a…

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18.12.2018

VIDEO: An everyday all-star – the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles

A little while ago I posited that the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 was the best-value diver of 2018, a bold claim I still back. Today, it’s time to meet the Seastar’s dressy cousin, the Chemin des Tourelles. This watch is powered by the same, quite impressive Powermatic 80 as the Seastar, but on the surface it’s a completely different looking beast. A 42mm case, with a flashy blue starburst dial with an outer level of quite fancy Clous de Paris style finishing, which goes well with the applied numerals. This Tissot hits a lot of familiar, friendly notes, and…

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18.12.2018

VIDEO: Altered Carbon – TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon

The blacked-out Carbon capsule collection takes some sporty TAG Heuer staples and remixes them with carbon, in its various forms — there’s the Bamford Monaco, the colour-popping Aquaracer, and this guy, the Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon. Now, the familiar case on this Carrera isn’t all carbon; only the lugs and bezel are made from the lightweight, high-tech composite, more than enough to give the look (and the feel) of the material, while the central case elements are made from more conventional steel (albeit blacked-out). The other nifty thing about this watch is the Heuer 02 movement, which is a thoroughly…

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16.12.2018

VIDEO: Which Panerai Submersible is right for you? 

At its heart, Panerai is about diving. The brand was born under the waves and continues to call the underwater world home. Which is why we found ourselves, several weeks ago, watching — slightly nervously — as a brace of Panerai Submersibles dipped into a giant tank full of rays, sharks and other (less threatening) fish at the Melbourne Aquarium. Thankfully, the watches were attached to the wrists of professional divers, who put them through their paces, leaving us in the position to debate the various merits of three stars in the Submersible line-up: the Submersible Carbotech, the Submersible in 42mm…

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15.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I’ve got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It’s the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow, and it does pretty much what it says on the tin. Let’s start with the case. Hublot has been playing with (and seriously democratising) ultra-hard, ultra-slick and ultra-cool synthetic sapphire cases since 2016, and it’s become something of a staple in their higher-end limited editions. For all its transparency, this 45mm wide and 14.25mm thick case has stacks…

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14.12.2018

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech – PAM00692

At first glance, you could be forgiven for thinking that this is a 47mm Submersible much like any other. On second, or perhaps third glance, the truth becomes more apparent. This is a Panerai unlike any other, and that difference is thanks to the case, the BMG in BMG-Tech. BMG is short for Bulk Metallic Glass, and it’s what the case is made out of. When I learned this, it took a while to get my head around it. Glass is in the name, but this case is far from fragile. BMG is a glass-like alloy of zirconium, copper, aluminium,…

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13.12.2018

VIDEO: It’s not ceramic, it’s not metal, it’s the Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos

When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they’ve chosen to deploy Ceramos on the relatively conservative DiaMaster Thinline, a classic two-hander with a date. So, if you like your tradition with a healthy dose of technical, check out the Rado…