HANDS-ON: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date

Bruce Duguay

I have to admit that up until this month I all but ignored bronze watches. It seemed like a lingering trend that just didn’t make a lot of sense to me, in photos anyway. Because I’m in my late 30s and not my early 20s, I decided that this kind of pre-judgement was beneath me, and that I should probably try wearing bronze before lambasting the third-place metal in print. Luckily, an Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date had just arrived at my doorstep and, lo and behold, it was rendered in bronze!

Instantly I was taken with the warmth of the watch. If you have been following some of my writing you will probably know that I assign this subjective feel to watches that have softer edges, natural colourways, and textile straps. Oris is on a roll these days. They are a great corporate citizen with many initiatives related to ocean conservation (coral reefs, in particular) and employ some highly credible ambassadors (including German freediver Anna von Boetticher) who support the brand in a non-pretentious way. Their watches grab headlines in all the major media outlets, with a diverse and high-quality collection that usually hits a great pricing sweet spot.

At well under $3000 and precisely 40mm, the Big Crown Pointer Date certainly makes its argument for that sweet spot existence very well. My press model was already starting to oxidise slightly, which is an intentional characteristic of bronze meant to effect an aged or patina look. On the BCPD (let’s agree it’s a long name), this patina works well with the thin coin-edged bezel, without looking dirty or mistreated. As the name suggests, the big crown complements the proportions of the watch and makes for easy winding and adjustments, which are intuitive to anyone who has experience setting an automatic time and date watch. The bronze case is bookended by the dark brown leather strap, itself taking on a rugged texture and slightly distressed look.

Turning the watch over finally betrays its modern origins. The caseback is stainless steel because bronze can commonly cause irritation to the skin. The owner is also treated to a view of the handsome but reserved 754-SW200 movement that Oris has adapted from Sellita, and competency is the order of the day here with a 38-hour power reserve.

Back up front, the dial initially comes across as possibly busy, however the large non-serif numbers are highly legible on the innermost circle of the brown expanse which enjoys a minimal presence of text. It is only the outer tracks of minutes and dates that start to get busy. I enjoyed the pointy primary handset quite a bit for its ability to very accurately set the time and the bright lume in low light. The namesake pointer date function is a nice departure from a date window but you should know it isn’t a quick-glance affair. Look closely to see which date the thin arm is pointing to, but it’s worth the time to enjoy the overall view of the watch.

The element that brings it all together for me is the domed sapphire crystal over the dial. I actually had to double-check the specs to make sure this wasn’t an acrylic crystal because it has none of the sharp coldness of sapphire. The domed nature of the crystal doesn’t distort the view of the dial except on very shallow viewing angles which means you get the vintage look but none of the compromise.

How does the Big Crown Pointer Date in bronze fit into your lifestyle? Perfect with a button-down white shirt and jeans. I also liked it with khaki pants and dark blue sport coat as a statement of contrast and hip alternative to yellow gold. This is a more svelte alternative to the chunky Tudor Black Bay in bronze and better value in my mind. Welcome to the new bronze age brought to you by Oris.