The F.P. Journe Élégante Gino’s Dream is as touching as it is brilliant

Russell Sheldrake

Nothing draws more attention and comments in the watch world than a rainbow watch. We can’t help ourselves as a community to be drawn like moths to these multi-coloured, glittering spectacles of gem-setting brilliance. So when one of the most restrained and traditionally minded independent watchmakers brings out a rainbow bezel quartz watch, heads are bound to turn. And that is exactly what F.P. Journe has done. When I managed to get hands on with this watch at the brand’s headquarters in Geneva during Watches & Wonders, it was a real pleasure to hear the incredible story that lies behind this piece runs as deep as it possibly can in the company.

The background

While 2024 marks the 10th anniversary of F.P. Journe’s quartz marvel, the Élégante, the release of this watch is far more meaningful than just the celebration of this milestone. The true meaning lies in a man who made a huge difference in M. Journe’s personal and professional life. Serge Cukrowicz, known as Gino to all, first came across Journe at Baselworld 1999, the day he launched the brand with his Tourbillon Souverain. Having run his own jewellery business since 1987, Gino was in a perfect position to help the newly established Journe to flourish.

Forming somewhat of a triptych, Gino, Journe, and Philippe Rabin founded Montres Journe SA, and would travel the world opening the brand’s now well-established network of boutiques, displaying Journe’s latest creations to press, and meeting with clients as the brand’s popularity and recognition grew. On all of these trips, Gino would be easy to spot, wearing his multicoloured jackets, diamond earrings, and yellow watch strap.

Sadly, Gino passed away in 2021, but a member of his family is still in Journe folds, as his stepson, Shawn Mehta, is the Manager of the newly opened London boutique. Given that Gino was such a big part of Montres Journe SA, it only seemed right to commemorate his colourful spirit and lasting contributions in a watch that matched his bright nature.

The cases

The main star of these watches are their technicolour rainbow bezels. While this is nothing new in the watch world, what is novel is what these “stones” are made from. Traditionally, we have been used to seeing every shade of sapphire used to produce this effect, however that is not the case here. These are cast in ceramic glass. Produced in-house at Boîtiers de Genève, Journe’s own casemakers, using this ceramic glass material allowed M. Journe to be incredibly precise in the exact shades he wanted to produce. And if we know one thing about everything that has been produced by Montres Journe SA, it’s that it has come from the singular vision and exacting standards of François-Paul himself.

These 52 ceramic glass stones are placed in either titanium or Titalyt cases, with the latter being an electromagnetic coating that is applied to a titanium case that gives it a darker look, but also increases the material’s toughness and resistance to corrosion.

The dials

So now we know the story, let’s look at the actual watches. There are two editions of Gino’s Dream, with differing dials and cases. As is expected with the Élégante, the dials are fully luminous in both the black and white versions. The typical Arabic numerals surround the luminous discs which are held in place by screwed-in steel plates. The aperture at four shows this watch’s party trick, the motion detector that triggers the movement’s resetting function once picked up – but more on that later.

The movement

The Calibre 1210 has run the Élégante for its full ten-year life after taking eight years to develop. An electromechanical movement, it places functionality and elegance at its very heart with the aforementioned standby mode feature. If the watch remains motionless for 35 minutes, the hands will stop ticking and it will fall asleep. But, as soon as it is picked up, the small rotor on the dial side will trigger the hands to wake up and move in the shortest route possible in either direction, to the correct time. This means the watch can stay running on one battery for eight to ten years while active, or 18 years in standby mode. Of course, Journe would not just be happy with pure functionality, so the circuit tracks are plated in rose gold, reminiscent of Journe’s 18k rose gold movements.

The verdict

The meaning that lies behind this watch is perhaps more profound than any I have come across before. The deep, personal connection that Journe and Gino had meant a lot to the watchmaker, and helped to build the brand that is possibly one of, if not the, most successful independent brands today. To honour a man like that in such an authentic way makes perfect sense to me. While I understand some may be disappointed with the stones not being naturally occurring, to me, it makes no difference. As we move towards a culture where lab-grown diamonds are becoming more and more acceptable, these ceramic glass stones give Journe the control he wants, without forgoing any visual quality.

F.P. Journe Élégante Gino’s Dream pricing and availability

The F.P. Journe Élégante Gino’s Dream is going to be available in the autumn and only limited by the number that the brand can produce. Price: CHF 34,500 (excl. taxes).

Brand	F.P. Journe
Model	Élégante Gino’s Dream
Case Dimensions	40mm (D) x 7.95mm (T) x 48mm (LTL)
Case Material	Titanium or Titalyt-coated titanium
Water Resistance	30 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire front and back
Dial	White or black, both fully lumed
Lug Width	18mm
Strap	Yellow or orange rubber
Movement	Calibre 1210, quartz
Power Reserve	8-10 years running, 18 years in standby
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds automatic restart
Availability	Autumn 2024
Price	CHF 34,500 (excl. taxes)