The Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode is a field watch for your field of dreams
Jamie WeissLet’s get straight into it: Baltic, one of the biggest microbrands in the world (which isn’t an oxymoron, we swear) and Time+Tide have joined forces to release a field watch that accelerates into contemporary tastes with an on-trend 37mm case size and an all-black aesthetic. Meet the Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode, which would be among the darkest and most dapper field watches we’ve ever seen, and something we’re really proud to share with the world as part of our 10th anniversary celebrations.
The case
The concept behind the Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode was simple. We asked Etienne and Clement at Baltic, “what is the modern expression of a field watch in a world that – by and large – does not demand military watches?” The answer was broader. The answer was blacker.
Fittingly, the Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode features a matte black PVD stainless steel case: a first for the Hermétique collection. Despite its somewhat petite 37mm case and being only 10.8mm thick – including its highly-domed crystal – the Hermétique boasts 150 metres of water resistance, outperforming the vast majority of field watches on the market.
When the Hermétique collection dropped last year, it was clear Baltic had found a new expression of the field watch that resonated. A more casual take on a field watch when compared to their HMS model, it’s proven to be a winner among watch fans thanks to its sophisticated, nostalgic aesthetic as well as proportions. It’s not an out-and-out rugged field watch like you might find from other brands at its price point: it’s a prettier beast, with a bit more French je ne sais quoi.
The dial
The Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode features a matte black dial, which matches its black case and complements its double-domed sapphire crystal. You could get lost staring into the abyss of this Baltic’s dial.
Well, you would, except that its indices are made of 0.5mm blocks of C3 X1 Super-LumiNova, the brightest grade of Super-LumiNova, which is yellowish in daylight and glows green in the dark. It’s impressive just how bright the Night Mode’s lume is: the contrast between its old-school looks and this extra-bright lume is really interesting. It also makes it very easy to read at night… So much for stealth, I suppose.
The Night Mode’s railway minute track isn’t actually lumed, but because the indices and hands are so bright, you can still make it out even in mixed lighting conditions. I also love how legible its syringe hour and minute hands are, as well as its lollipop seconds hand, which features a pop of blue lume. Another interesting dial detail is a polished steel ring that punctuates the indices, adding a subtle hit of light that plays well with its double-domed sapphire crystal.
The strap
In keeping with its stealthy theme, the Baltic Hermétique Night Mode comes mounted on either a black or khaki FKM Tropic-style rubber strap, which reinforces its retro French look while also reassuring the wearer that this watch is capable of some aquatic adventure. Andrew’s quite obsessed with the khaki strap, but I reckon the black is the one to pick – may as well go fully blacked out. (Note: these photos show pre-production prototype straps; final production straps have black PVD buckles.)
The movement
Under the hood, Baltic has outfitted the Hermétique Night Mode with Miyota’s calibre 9039. Baltic uses a mix of Swiss, Chinese and Japanese movements in their watches: this movement is one of Miyota’s premium calibres and features a smooth 4Hz beat rate, automatic winding and a 42-hour power reserve.
One of the reasons we’ve always liked Baltic is because they’re unusually transparent about where their components are sourced from. The majority of their components are produced in Hong Kong, their accessories come from Italy and in this instance, the movements come from Japan – but Baltic assemble and regulate all their watches in Besançon, the heart of the French watch industry.
The verdict
Field watches were designed to be worn ‘out in the field’ – that is, in battle. But this is a watch to wear in your field of dreams. Whether that’s a night drive through the rain-slicked big city – a scene that fans of Etienne’s will find familiar – or a pre-dawn run, ride, workout or surf, where the Tropic-style strap and slim case profile will play along nicely.
This isn’t just a case of coating a design in black DLC and calling it a day: the Night Mode has a proper story and rationale behind it, as well as a considered design that emphasises visual flair. That steel dial ring in particular is such a clever piece of design; it’s subtly genius and epitomises Baltic’s exceptional attention to detail.
Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode pricing & availability
The Baltic x Time+Tide Hermétique Night Mode is exclusively available in-store at the Time+Tide Melbourne Discovery Studio. Price: A$1,200 / US$800 / £600 / €700
| Brand | Baltic x Time+Tide |
| Model | Hermétique Night Mode |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 10.8mm (T) x 46mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel with black PVD coating |
| Water Resistance | 150 metres |
| Crystal | Double-domed sapphire |
| Dial | Matte black, railway minute track, stainless steel reflection ring 0.5mm-thick Super-LumiNova C3 X1 “super indexes” Syringe hour and minute hands, lollipop seconds hand, coated in Super-LumiNova C3 X1 |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap(s) | Black/khaki FKM Tropic-style rubber straps, black PVD pin buckles |
| Movement | Miyota 9039, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Limited release, see above |
| Price | A$1,200 US$800 £600 €700 |