Audemars Piguet Social Club 2024 kicks off with the debut of a new ‘Sand Gold’ alloy & a John Mayer collab
Jamie Weiss- Audemars Piguet’s annual Social Club festivities kick off this year with a new AP House and a boatload of new APs.
- The debut of a new alloy, “Sand Gold”, in the form of a Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked is particularly notable.
- The other headline release is a limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar produced in collaboration with John Mayer.
We’re starting to head into the watch industry’s silly season. Watches & Wonders is only a few weeks away, Omega has already made a splash with a white lacquer dial Speedy, and now we’ve got 2024’s edition of the Audemars Piguet Social Club. AP has kicked off this year’s festivities by unveiling the new AP House Milano, which Andrew was on the ground for. However, more exciting than a new AP House is the bevy of new APs we’ve been blessed with. Let’s dive in.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked / 41mm ‘Sand Gold’
AP is a brand that’s no stranger to pushing boundaries when it comes to materials, especially gold: its hammered frosted gold cases and bracelets immediately spring to mind. However, AP has now debuted a new gold alloy that’s quite unlike any other gold alloy on the market, which it’s calling “sand gold”.
Somewhere between white and rose gold, AP’s sand gold is an 18-carat gold alloy with high levels of copper and palladium, which features a warm, dusty look. I’d be very keen to see it in the flesh, as from renders at least, it looks quite unique. “With sand gold, Audemars Piguet is reviving the creative approach to gold alloys and colours that prevailed for thousands of years until the 1960s,” Sébastian Vivas, AP’s Heritage and Museum Director explains.
AP has debuted this new gold alloy with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, one of the more complicated takes on the brand’s iconic integrated luxury sports watch. Powered by the Calibre 2972, which was first released in 2022 for the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, its openworked structure is predominantly crafted from sand gold-plated brass and features a sand gold-toned rehaut. The automatic rotor is conventional rose gold, albeit rhodium-toned.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked / 41mm |
| Reference | 26735SG.OO.1320SG.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k sand gold case |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | 18k sand-gold-toned inner bezel, openworked |
| Strap | 18k sand gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 2972 |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Available for inquiries now |
| Price | POA |
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 38mm / 41mm
Five years on from its launch, the Code 11.59 is no longer the red-headed stepchild of the AP family. Indeed, I think the Code 11.59 is truly underrated: the trick design of its lugs is pretty special, and I love how its sandwiched case design subtly pays homage to the faceted look of the Royal Oak while being something completely fresh.
The big news for 2024 is that we’re seeing a bunch more rose gold references join the collection, across both 38 and 41 mm diameters. In a way, this brings the Code 11.59 back to its roots: it launched in precious metals. All of these references feature the more contemporary concentric ring-motif stamped guilloche pattern that was introduced on stainless steel three-hander references in 2023.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 38mm (77410OR.OO.A344CR.01 / 77410OR.OO.A342CR.01) Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 41mm (15210OR.OO.A348KB.01 / 15210OR.OO.A056KB.01) |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 9.6mm (T) |
| 41mm (D) x 10.7mm (T) | |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold (all references) |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Light blue dial w/ stamped motif (77410OR.OO.A344CR.01) |
| “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (77410OR.OO.A342CR.01) | |
| “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (15210OR.OO.A348KB.01) | |
| Green dial w/ stamped motif (15210OR.OO.A056KB.01) | |
| Crystal | Double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Dial-matching textured textile or alligator strap w/ 18k rose gold AP pin buckle |
| Movement | 38mm: Automatic AP calibre 5900 41mm: In-house automatic calibre 4302 |
| Power Reserve | 38mm: 60 hours 41mm: 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available for inquiries |
| Price | POA |
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm
Similarly, the Code 11.59 Chronograph has also received three new rose gold models with the same aforementioned concentric dial pattern: a black-dialled, a green-dialled, and a third in the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour introduced on the first Royal Oak ref. 5402. One subtle difference between the three is that the black model features a black ceramic mid-case, while the other two feature rose gold mid-cases.
Under the hood of these three beats the Calibre 4401, an in-house flyback chronograph movement with a column wheel, vertical clutch system, 70-hour power reserve and a 4 Hz beat rate. Despite the Code 11.59 Chronograph’s beefy appearance, it’s only 12.6 mm thick – not exactly svelte, but less chunky than one might imagine.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 12.6mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold (26393OR.OO.A348KB.01) |
| 18k rose gold (26393OR.OO.A056KB.01) | |
| 18k rose gold w/ black ceramic midcase (26393NR.OO.A002KB.02) | |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (26393OR.OO.A348KB.01) |
| Green dial w/ stamped motif (26393OR.OO.A056KB.01) | |
| Black dial w/ stamped motif (26393NR.OO.A002KB.02) | |
| Crystal | Double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Dial-matching textile strap w/ 18k rose gold AP pin buckle |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 4401 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | Available for inquiries |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mm
A pair of blingy Royal Oak 37 mm models have also joined the range, both of which feature paved bezels and case ends paired with alligator leather straps. One is white gold with diamonds paired with a green dial and strap, while the other is yellow gold with diamond-paved case ends, a graded sapphire-paved bezel and a light blue dial / strap combination.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mm |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 9mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold case, bezel, and studs set with diamonds and blue sapphires (15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01) 18k white gold case, bezel, and studs set with diamonds (15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01) |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Light blue dial w/ Grande Tapisserie motif (15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01) |
| Light green dial w/ Grande Tapisserie motif (15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01) | |
| Crystal | Double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Dial-matching alligator strap w. large square scales and AP folding clasp set w/ 42 brilliant-cut diamonds |
| Movement | Automatic AP calibre 5900 |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available for inquiries |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) / 37mm
Audemars Piguet’s RD line represents some of the Le Brassus brand’s more envelope-pushing efforts, and the RD#3 is no exception. First introduced in 2022 to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th birthday, it came in two case diameters: a 39 mm ‘Jumbo’ variant with a “Bleu Nuit” dial, and a smaller 37 mm variant with a purple dial. This new 37 mm RD#3 has a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, as well as a tasty new smoked dark blue Petit Tapisserie dial.
Its remarkable Calibre 2968 measures up at a mere 3.4 mm in thickness, yet it manages a 50-hour power reserve, despite that power-thirsty tourbillon. The tourbillon cage features a novel peripheral drive, which reduces its thickness and enables it to fit in this watch’s thin 8.1 mm case.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) / 37mm |
| Reference | 26660BC.ZZ.1356BC.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 8.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k white gold case, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds (2 carats) |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Smoked blue dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern, 12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers (0.2 carats) |
| Strap | 18k white gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 2968 |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Available for inquiries now |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph / 41mm
A sumptuous take on the Royal Oak Chronograph, this new model combines an 18k yellow gold case with a smoked yellow gold-toned Grande Tapisserie dial. It actually reminds me of a triple sunburst Gibson Les Paul – and it’s an appropriately rock-n’-roll watch. Like the Code 11.59 Chronographs mentioned earlier, it too is powered by the Calibre 4401.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwindiing Chronograph / 41mm |
| Reference | 26240BA.OO.1320BA.02 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 12.4mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 50m (screw-down crown) |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Smoked yellow gold-toned dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern |
| Strap | 18k yellow gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 4401 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph. |
| Availability | Available for inquiries now |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon / 41mm
AP’s signature Tapisserie hobnail dial pattern is uncontroversially lovely, but sometimes it’s nice to see a Royal Oak do something different as far as dials are concerned. That’s exactly what this pair of 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models do, both eschewing Petit Tapisserie dials in favour of more distinct looks.
First of all, we’ve got a stainless steel model with a smoked burgundy sunburst dial, which features a translucent tinted lacquer topcoat – giving it a luscious appearance. Secondly, we’ve got a rose gold model with a two-tone dial: a grey sandblasted inner with an azuraged ivory rim. Subtle, but classy.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon / 41mm |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (26730ST.OO.1320ST.05) 18k rose gold (26730OR.OO.1320OR.03) |
| Water Resistance | 50m (screww-down crown) |
| Dial | Smoked burgundy sunburst dial (26730ST.OO.1320ST.05) |
| Sandblasted grey dial w/ ivory minute scale (26730OR.OO.1320OR.03) | |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet w/ AP folding clasp (26730ST.OO.1320ST.05) 18k rose gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp (26730OR.OO.1320OR.03) |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 2950 |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Available for inquiries |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding / 34mm
Two automatic 34 mm Royal Oaks have also joined the range. The first is a rose gold model with a new vivid pink dial, which complements its case material nicely; and the second being a two-tone steel and rose gold model with a grey dial. I was initially very excited when I saw the latter as I thought it might be two-tone tantalum and rose gold, bringing back a metal combination AP played with in the 80s – but nope, it’s steel.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding / 34mm |
| Case Dimensions | 34mm (D) x 8.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold (77450OR.OO.1361OR.01) Stainless steel & 18k rose gold (77450SR.OO.1361SR.03) |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Pink dial w/ Grande Tapisserie pattern (77450OR.OO.1361OR.01) |
| Grey dial w/ Grande Tapisserie pattern (77450SR.OO.1361SR.03) | |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | 18k rose gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp (77450OR.OO.1361OR.01)
Stainless steel bracelet, 18-carat rose gold studs, stainless steel AP folding clasp w/ AP plate in rose gold (77450SR.OO.1361SR.03) |
| Movement | Automatic AP calibre 5800 |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available for inquiries |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding / 37mm
I mentioned hammered gold earlier in this article: well, another one of 2024’s AP Social Club releases is indeed a frost yellow gold 37 mm RO, paired with a smoked gold sunburst dial. The only other frosted yellow gold RO models in the range currently are the garish rainbow gemset Double Balance Wheel Openworked models: this reference is more sedate and I daresay more wearable.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding / 37mm |
| Reference | 15550BA.GG.1356BA.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 9.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k ‘frosted’ yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Smoked yellow gold-toned dial with sunburst pattern |
| Strap | Hammered 18k yellow gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp |
| Movement | Automatic AP calibre 5900 |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available for inquiries now |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding / 43mm
2024 marks the return of the rubber bezel to the Royal Oak Offshore – a much-maligned design feature that I’m actually quite a big fan of. This steel 43 mm model features a smoked blue Méga Tapisserie dial with a matching blue rubber strap and bezel. The lack of complications makes this Offshore somewhat understated… As understated as an Offshore can be, I suppose.
This new model is one of only a handful of contemporary Royal Oak Offshores that isn’t a chronograph. It’s not even a ROO Diver. It’s ‘just’ an Offshore. Instead, it’s powered by the Calibre 4302, which features a blackened rose gold rotor and a 70-hour power reserve.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding / 43mm |
| Reference | 15605SK.OO.A350CA.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 43mm (D) x 14.4mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel case, blue rubber-coated bezel |
| Water Resistance | 100m (screw-down crown) |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Smoked blue dial w/ new generation Méga Tapisserie pattern |
| Strap | Interchangeable blue rubber strap and stainless steel AP pin buckle. Additional interchangeable black rubber strap. |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 4302 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available for inquiries now |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked / 39mm
Also new in 2024: a white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked joins the range alongside the preexisting rose gold model that was introduced in 2022. In the world of complicated Royal Oaks, the “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked stands out as a particularly dapper edition. With 247 inner angles and a prominently displayed filleted barrel at 11 o’clock, the Calibre 7124 in this bad boy is a work of art.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked / 39mm |
| Reference | 16204BC.00.1240BC.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 8.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k white gold case |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Anthracite openworked movement |
| Strap | 18k white gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 7124 |
| Power Reserve | 57 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | Available for inquiries now |
| Price | POA |
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in collaboration with John Mayer
Last but certainly not least, we have a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar produced in collaboration with Grammy-winning singer-songwriter and noted watch enthusiast John Mayer, one of the most prominent celebrity watch collectors on the planet. It features a unique electroformed blue crystal dial that’s quite unlike anything we’ve seen AP attempt before – head to Russell’s dedicated write-up here for a full introduction.
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Model | Royal Oak “John Mayer” Perpetual Calendar / 41mm |
| Reference | 26574BC.OO.1220BC.02 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 9.5mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k white gold case |
| Water Resistance | 20m |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Dial | Blue “Crystal Sky” |
| Strap | 18k white gold bracelet w/ AP folding clasp |
| Movement | In-house automatic calibre 5134 |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, moon phase |
| Availability | Limited to 200 pieces |
| Price | CHF 150,000 |