A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart
Dániel Dobai- Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series
- The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve
- New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial
Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. The Sharp Edged Series falls somewhere in the middle and has been a fan favourite since its 2020 release. It features a similar design language to some Grand Seiko models, but at a fraction of the price. With its latest update, the series has become even more desirable thanks to a new(ish) movement, a new case, and a few little tweaks.
The new dials catch the eye first. The SPB415 has a silky white dial, while the SPB417 has a more daring blue one. Both have an “asanoha” hemp-leaf texture that has been applied to Japanese textiles for centuries. These small diamond shapes catch light differently every time, making sure that you always see a new face of your watch. A new, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating sits above the dial, complemented by the now curving seconds hand, which is just the perfect length, reaching every five-second marker on the perimeter of the dial. The applied indices have been redesigned a bit, as have the lume spots that follow their shape.
They also complement the angular case quite well. The most obvious update has to do with the opening on the dial at 9 o’clock. As Seiko’s 6R movements have simple finishing, the hemp-leaf-inspired decoration on top makes it look more refined. Below, one can observe the balance wheel jumping back and forth. The 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock is also a new addition. It is not there to show another time zone – it simply helps to differentiate between night and day, mainly there to balance out the optical weight of the open heart.
Finishing has always been the main selling point of these watches. With an additional polished flank on the side of the case, it now has a stronger Grand Seiko feel, especially on its lugs. The stainless-steel case measures 40.2 millimetres in diameter and 13.5 millimetres in thickness. Its 47.5 millimetres lug-to-lug makes it quite compact, just like many Seikos, while the aforementioned polished facet takes a bit away from the thickness optically.
While some Sharp Edged models are also available on a leather strap, its stainless-steel bracelet is what truly makes it a complete package. The three-link bracelet is mostly brushed, just like the case, but the polished details on its middle links make it pop out. Both the case and the bracelet have Seiko’s proprietary Super-Hard Coating, which makes them more resistant to scratches. With 100 metres of water resistance, you can even take it on your beach holiday this summer.
Behind the exhibition caseback is the new 6R5J movement, which debuts with 72 hours of power reserve. We haven’t seen this one in a release before, however, its structure is familiar as it is an updated version of the regular 6R caliber. As the dial advertises, it has 72 hours of power reserve and runs at 3 Hz. This longer autonomy is a welcome addition and would be great to see in other releases as well.
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Open Heart pricing and availability:
The newest Presage Sharp Edged Series creations will be available starting in June 2023 at Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide. Price: AU$1,950
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | Sharp Edged Series Open Heart |
| Reference Number | SPB415 SPB417 |
| Case Dimensions | 40.2mm (D) x 13.5mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Dial | Asanoha hemp leaf texture on white or blue backdrop |
| Crystal(s) | Double dome sapphire |
| Strap | Three-link stainless steel bracelet |
| Movement | 6R5J, automatic, in-house |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, 24-hour indicator |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | A$1,950 |