The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more (Pt II) The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more (Pt II)

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more (Pt II)

Thor Svaboe

Writing this story has proved to me the growing popularity of olive-green dials. What was meant to be a snappy round-up, quickly snowballed into a two-parter simply because there were far too many great options that we couldn’t bear to leave out. Perhaps that shouldn’t be surprising, either. Olive green, after all, is a colour that’s particularly well-suited for watch dials being at once distinctive but highly wearable, too. Check out the pieces in this second installment as we consider some green-eyed beauties from Patek Philipp, Hublot, TAG Heuer, IWC and Rolex.

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more

The Grail Grenade – I’m hereby claiming this nickname for Time+Tide (including hashtag rights) for what could be the ultimate slimline sports watch on a rubber strap.  Patek Philippe’s olive dial is a calm, greyish green whose delicate grid pattern makes it look like, yes, a hand grenade framed by white gold. A rugged sports watch on rubber is enough of a contradictory reference for Patek Philippe already, but that etched pattern set against the broad bezel with its large expanse of brushed white gold only underlines the sweet juxtaposition. The way those striations in the brushwork play with the mirror polished bevel through the smooth, rounded shape of the bezel, offers a sharp counterpoint to the highly legible dial. The muscular lugs, intricate bevelling and impressive 324 S C calibre are set into a package that’s super thin for a sports watch at 8.25mm, making this 42.2mm diameter sit like a dream. The question is, would you dare actually use it? Would you click on the delicately designed butterfly clasp in white gold when you’re heading out to shoot some hoops? Please send pictures! Price: $35,000 USD

TAG Heuer Sports Chronograph

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more

The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection saw the light of day last year and, for me, the high point was the olive green sunburst dial of this reference (read our hands-on review here). Both the boldness of the dial colour and the restrained bezel execution ensured this watch stood out in a refreshing light, and made it a different proposition from the rest of the collection. The TAG Heuer shield sits prominently on the unusually radial brushing of the dial, while the registers sit slightly recessed with brushed chapter rings and a snailed inner circle – textures that only underline the warm glow of the metallic olive shade that TAG Heuer must have spent months researching. Yes, it is that delicious. Don’t get me wrong, this is a proper tough nugget of a watch, and at 44mm large with a 15.3mm thick case, a shrinking violet it ain’t. But the clear contrast of pure brushed and bevelled steel and that rich green glow is truly special. A depth rating of 100 metres with a solid 80 hours of power reserve denotes it as a great everyday wearer. Price: $8300 AUD

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more

At 41mm, the warm glow of bronze makes this one of many strong pilot’s watch contenders in IWC’s arsenal. Here we have the rich deep golden glow of bronze only emphasising the vintage vibe of an IWC, the Flieger watch of choice for many serious collectors. And how well does the deep sun-ray olive work to complement it.  The pure utilitarian satin sheen of the matte bronze case is such a good partner to the dial, while IWC has resisted the temptation of fauxtina, instead opting for crisp white Arabic numerals with golden hands and register pointers. Admittedly, the iconic triangle at 12 and Super-Luminova blocks at 3,6 and 9 are a calm beige, matching the bronze to a tee. Strap it onto your wrist with IWC’s classic dark brown leather strap with its notched taper and double top stitch. Now where’s my leather bomber jacket? Price: CHF 7,050

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph 42mm

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more

My favourite take on the chronograph complication is a bi-compax layout, preferring this balanced, simple version of a function that I shamefully admit to not using to its full potential (I promise to change my ways). The Classic Fusion Chronograph is a large watch, but like all offerings from Hublot a great mix of bold lines and comfort on the wrist. This is exemplified by the lightness of titanium, making the distinctly Hublot case a pure angular joy in combination with their soft rubber-lined leather strap. The sharp handset is polished, the sword hour and minute hands with a central crease used to compete with the indices in a light-catching battle that comes out a draw. The brushed sunray dial emits dark green reflections that makes this a strong wrist presence, matched with the alligator strap for classic elegance. But this is a different kind of elegance that can’t be mistaken for anything but Hublot, and yet another reason to eschew monochrome for the wonderful rich world of greens. This 42mm reference comes with the HUB1153 automatic calibre, 42 hours of power reserve, and the delicious option of a version in King Gold.. Price in titanium: EUR 10,200

Rolex Day-Date rose gold Olive

The best olive green dials featuring Patek Philippe, Hublot, Rolex and more

First impressions? Well, this is actually the first watch I thought of for this two-part olive green story, so strong is its impact on the senses. The Day-Date 40 is such a strong part of Rolex lore, and why not go for the boldest colour combination with that sweet rosy tint in the Everose case, on the supreme comfort of the President bracelet with the warmth of olive green. With its day at 12 o’clock, fluted bezel and cyclops date, it is in many eyes the epitome of classicism. Almost annoyingly perfect in its precision, the reason for its grail status is undisputable. My OCD is at once sedated just by glancing at the roman numerals at 4 with the discretely bevelled indices placed at a micro-millimeter equidistance on the olive surface. The 3255 manufacture calibre is hard-working perfection, produced for reliability rather than glitz with the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers the result of more than half a century of evolution.  Price: EUR 37,300

Check out Part 1 of the our round-up of the best olive dials here