The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking

The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking

Jamie Weiss

Luxembourg and Switzerland have a lot in common. Both are tiny, very rich European tax havens that sit at the crossroads of great European powers. They’re both slightly inscrutable, quirky little countries, known for being homes of wealth and luxury. Yet unlike Switzerland, which is the heart of the world’s watch industry, surprisingly few watch brands call Luxembourg home (even though Luxembourg was the birthplace of Jean-Claude Biver, one of the industry’s most influential figures). That’s why Duke, and their first-ever model, the Clarity Tourbillon, is such an intriguing prospect. Boasting a familiar octagonal form housing an innovative in-house movement, it’s a bold first attempt from a brand (and country) little known to the world.

The case

duke clarity tourbillon case

Designed by Alessio Muller, one half of the father-and-son team that founded Duke, the Clarity Tourbillon’s 44mm octagonal case demonstrably owes much to the legendary designs of Gérald Genta – yet it’s by no means derivative. Its case features a novel sandwiched construction, with a bezel, backplate and lugs crafted from grade 5 titanium plus a middle section crafted from titanium-infused carbon fibre.

The dial

duke clarity tourbillon dial

The dial of the Duke Clarity Tourbillon is the main event, though. Crafted from tinted shot-blasted sapphire with a large 100-degree opening at 6 o’clock to highlight the tourbillon, it’s completely featureless, save for the Duke logo at 12 o’clock. The tourbillon is undeniably the star of the show.

duke clarity tourbillon

The opening has been hand-softened at its edges to create a seamless look, while a mirror-polished 18k white gold flange frames the stark dial, with skeletonised hands adding to the ultra-modern look.

The movement

duke clarity tourbillon caseback

Well, I say the dial is the main event – really, it’s the Clarity Tourbillon’s movement. Designed in collaboration with legendary master watchmaker Vianney Halter, the Duke Clarity Tourbillon is powered by the in-house Calibre 9600, an automatic-winding flying tourbillon movement (who would’ve guessed?) with double sapphire bridges, which makes the tourbillon appear truly weightless.

duke clarity tourbillon bridges

That effect is heightened by the movement’s mysterious rotor, which is crafted from sapphire crystal – again, designed to let the tourbillon be admired completely unobstructed. Mounted on ceramic ball bearings, Duke claims it’s nearly impossible to perceive the rotor’s winding.

duke clarity tourbillon rotor

Duke has also gone the extra mile when it comes to the movement’s finishing: hand beveling, mirror-polishing and reliefs made of alternating grained, sun-brushed and shot-blasted surfaces. It’s fundamentally modern in its appearance and deceptively minimalist.

The strap

duke clarity tourbillon strap

Adding to the Duke Clarity Tourbillon’s modern character is its strap, which is an integrated FKM rubber strap with titanium hardware. We suspect Duke plan to introduce integrated bracelets on their next Clarity Tourbillon models.

Duke Clarity Tourbillon pricing and availability

The Duke Clarity Tourbillon has been released in a ‘First Edition’ limited run of 8 models, which we believe may all be spoken for – but bespoke nature of the brand means that if you have the dosh, they’ll likely make you your very own. Price: €98,000

Brand Duke
Model Clarity Tourbillon
Case Diameter 44mm
Case Material Grade 5 titanium and carbon fibre
Water Resistance 50 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire
Dial Tinted shot-blasted sapphire, 18k white gold flange, hands and appliques
Lug Width Integrated
Strap FKM rubber strap, titanium pin buckle
Movement Duke Calibre 9600, automatic, double sapphire bridges
Power Reserve 72 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon, mysterious rotor
Availability Limited edition of 8
Price €98,000