Czapek’s new Promenade collection is art for the casual wearer
Buffy AcaciaCzapek truly know what a massive watch fair is supposed to be about, and have used Watches & Wonders 2024 to launch an entirely new collection called Promenade. It covers a style which is yet untapped by Czapek’s sporty Antarctique, the classically handsome Quai de Bergues or the futuristic Place Vendôme ranges. That style is something casual, but still highly artistic and expressive. Three new references have been released for the Promenade’s debut, with two colours of the Guilloché Soleil and one Goutte d’Eau.
The dial
Bridging the gap between the sports-dress watch spectrum requires quite a delicate balance, and it’s one that most watch companies struggle with. You can easily end up with something that only works in certain contexts, or even worse, something that’s just plain boring. The Czapek Promenade collection shows a lot of nuance from the brand, packing the references full of character without introducing restrictions to its all-encompassing style. They would look equally glamorous with formalwear or t-shirts, even heightening them. The Promenade Guilloché Soleil displays radiant beams emanating from the small seconds hand between 4 and 5 o’clock, capturing a bit of an Art Deco feel thanks to its rigid lines. The logo is quite small, working alongside the skeletonised hands to reduce obstacles for viewing the dial. In either its navy blue or silvery-beige colour schemes, it’s timeless blend of sophistication and exploration.
The Goutte d’Eau, or Water Drop, takes on a hypnotic depth in all aspects of design, colour, and texture. Even from a distance you can clearly make out the rippling pattern, which has the illustrious sheen of silk satin. Closer inspection reveals some of the telltale graininess of the grand feu enamel, but the illusion is never broken, even when viewed with a loupe. Czapek can’t take all of the credit for the new Promenade dials however, and in fact they give the credit where it is due. The Guilloché Soleil dials are made in partnership with a Swiss manufacture called Metalem, while the Goutte d’Eau uses Donzé Cadrans for its enamel work.
The case
When so much effort is put into creating a stunning dial, overlooking the case is an easy mistake to make. The Czapek Promenade collection is thankfully attentive to its stainless steel case design, while seeming laid-back. The shape is quite easygoing, with a soft bubble profile to its slender bezel and a refined, polished finish. There are small crown guards on the right side, protecting the rather thin crown. The lugs are also smooth, avoiding too many harsh angles which might distract from the star of the show.
38mm is the ideal size for a watch like this, ensuring gender-neutral enjoyment and maximising the available dial space. The lug-to-lug length is 42mm, keeping everything neat and compact on the wrist. Slenderness is also important for a versatile watch, and the Czapek Promenade doesn’t let anyone down there at a height of 10.8mm including a box domed sapphire crystal. 50 metres is an adequate water resistance for a watch like this, as it’s clearly aimed towards fashionable events rather than the beach or the pool.
The movement
If you’re familiar with Czapek, you’ve probably heard of its in-house calibre SXH5 and its association with the best-selling Antarctique. Well, it’s also a more than appropriate movement for the Promenade, given its simplicity in displays and beauty from behind. The only modification needed for this iteration was the relocation of the small seconds, but the rest of the specifications are familiar. There are 60 hours of power reserve at a beat rate of 4Hz, and it’s automatically wound by a micro-rotor made from recycled platinum. The view from the sapphire display caseback is marvellous, with special attention paid to the seven skeletonised bridges that take after a François Czapek pocket watch design from the 19th century.
The strap
Straps are almost always going to be underwhelming compared to a beautiful watch, but Czapek has employed my favourite method of making straps feel like luxury items in their own right. Curving the spring bars and the ends of the straps helps to integrate them with the shape of the watch case, ensuring a smooth overall appearance without needing to peek in at wrist skin. There are grey, beige, or blue options available in nubuck calf leather, or a Milanese steel bracelet which also has curved end links for that fitted feel.
The verdict
There really isn’t a huge market for luxury art watches with a casual flair, which makes evaluating new releases difficult. At CHF 17,350 for the Guilloché Soleil and CHF 18,000 for the Goutte d’Eau, the price isn’t too much more than an entry-level Moser Pioneer, which has a similar vibe. Considering the limited production of Czapek as well as the visual impact of these dials and the SXH5 movement, I’m sure that all of the models made will find their respective homes, and that the Promenade collection will grow substantially over the next few years.
Czapek Promenade collection pricing and availability
The Czapek Promenade Guilloché Soleil is now available for pre-order, in limited production but not a numbered edition. The Goutte d’Eau is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Price: CHF 17,350 (Guilloché Soleil), CHF 18,000 (Goutte d’Eau)
Brand | Czapek |
Model | Promenade Guilloché Soleil Promenade Goutte d’Eau |
Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 10.8mm (T) x 42mm (LTL) |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Water Resistance | 50 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Navy blue or silver (Guilloché Soleil) Blue drop effect in grand feu enamel (Goutte d’Eau) |
Bracelet | Nubuck leather strap or Milanese mesh bracelet with curved end links |
Movement | SXH5, in-house, micro-rotor automatic |
Power Reserve | 60 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
Availability | Now available for pre-order Goutte d’Eau limited to 100 pieces |
Price | CHF 17,350 (Guilloché Soleil) CHF 18,000 (Goutte d’Eau) |