The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1
Borna Bošnjak- The Glashütte-trained watchmaker presents his first in-house complication
- A minimalist, modern take on a moonphase complication
- Heavily modified and extensively hand-decorated Unitas movement
Felipe Pikullik launched his eponymous brand in 2017, upon completion of his studies in Germany’s cradle of watchmaking – Glashütte. In that short period, Mr Pikullik has already introduced four different collections, and while all have been extremely limited in numbers, their individuality and level of finishing considering the asking price was astounding. The latest in line is his first in-house complication, a beautifully executed moonphase adapted to the same Unitas movement that he amassed plentiful experience with already, resulting in the Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1.
Future star
His introduction to the world of watchmaking wasn’t as smooth as his anglage, however. After harbouring the passion his whole life, he suffered a setback as he wasn’t accepted into his watchmaking school of choice. Through pure focus, determination and sheer f***ing will (thanks John Wick), he persevered and eventually succeeded in entering. It was only onwards and upwards from there, as he apprenticed with Stephan Kudoke and Rolf Lang, both German masters of skeletonisation and engraving, which can be seen in Pikullik’s follow-up work.
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Alongside his “regular production” models, Pikullik also offers fully custom work, and has been known to modify the smaller Pesseux 7001 calibre as well. Likely his most famous unique work is the custom piece made for Marko Koncina of Swiss Watch Gang, featuring frosted and hand-engraved surfaces front and back, as well as the funky Swiss Watch Gang logo as the running seconds.
The Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1
Whereas Pikullik’s prior work focused greatly on the extensive hand-finishing techniques used on the common Unitas movement, the Mondphase takes it a step further, including the watchmaker’s first in-house complication. At first glance, the fact that it’s a moonphase may not be obvious, reaffirming the minimal brand image that Pikullik has managed to create in a short time period. Since it does house a 6497, the stainless-steel case isn’t as compact as some may like, including myself, measuring in at 41mm in diameter and 50mm lug-to-lug, while remaining relatively slim at 10.5mm. I’ve no doubt however than anyone with an averagely sized wrist could pull these dimensions off with no issues. If you can get one of the limited run of 20, that is.
Situated between 9 and 10 o’clock, the three-dimensional sphere has a two-sided frosted finish, partly blending into the rhodium-plated brass dial, while the subtle dimpling evokes the crater-scattered surface of the Moon. Owing to his Brazilian heritage, Pikullik displays the moon from the southern hemisphere. For additional visual interest, Pikullik exposes a part of the wheel train that turns the moon just below, balancing it with hand-engraved text denoting the brand name and place of origin – “In Berlin gefertgit”. I adore the black-polished minute track, which is applied to the dial and gives it awesome depth, integrating eastern Arabic numerals at its markers – a left-field choice for a German maker, but relates to its maker’s Islamic faith.
Turning the watch over, I’m simply stunned. I’ve seen well-finished Unitas movements before, but the intricate skeletonisation and elongated bridges of the Mondphase speak to me more than any I’ve seen before. While this prototype movement is brushed, the production examples will feature a frosted finish, similar to that of the dial. Just look at that f-hole shaped bridge holding up the escape and fourth wheels, just kissing the adjacent third wheel bridge, both with wonderful anglage. The snailing on the crown and barrel are just as wonderful, with all screws and their countersinks black polished. All of this, and we haven’t yet mentioned the hand-engraved balance cock, colour matched to the balance wheel and going train. Absolutely gorgeous – *chef’s kiss* 🤌
Spec-wise, it’s a hand-wound movement (duh) with a 50-hour power reserve – a standard affair for a Unitas calibre. Talking about the movement more does give me an opportunity to include another beautiful angle of it though, and I’d hate to deprive you of that.
As a final fun fact, I was able to get a bit more information of the high degree of precision that was put into this movement. So high in fact, that it caused an issue in the Mondphase. The 59-tooth shifting mechanism for the moonphase was crafted to such a high degree, resulting in extremely low friction, that it caused the moon to jump further than it was supposed to. As hand-made gears have lower wear and friction than industrially made ones, the standard formula for producing a moonphase is not entirely accurate, as it is based on industrial production, which leaves gaps in between the gears to prevent wear. Due to the low friction from the hand-made parts, such gaps are not necessary. Findings like this are key in Pikullik’s understanding of building a hand-made movement from the ground up, which is why his progression has been so steady and methodical.
Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 pricing and availability:
The Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 is available now, as a limited edition of 20 pieces. Price: €24,000
| Brand | Felipe Pikullik |
| Model | Mondphase 1 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 10.5mm (T) x 50mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Rhodium-plated brass, frosted grey finish with black-polished minute track and 3D moonphase |
| Strap | Black leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle |
| Movement | Unitas 6497 base, heavily re-worked with skeletonisation and hand-finishing and in-house spherical moonphase |
| Price | €24,000 |