The Studio Underd0g Field is a cheeky yet innovative piece of wrist candy
Jamie WeissField watches are meant to be the least flashy of all watches. They’re supposed to be robust, simple and perhaps most importantly, stealthy. If you’re a soldier in the field, the last thing you want is a flashy watch giving your position away to the enemy.
However, it seems Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc missed that memo when it came time to design his second major watch collection, the Series 02 Field, as these field watches with their bright colours and expanses of lume are the opposite of stealthy. Colourful, irreverent, and fun, they’re the perfect follow-up to his cult-favourite Series 01 Chronograph – but their playful nature belies a pretty impressive dial design that’s a first in the watch industry.
The dials
The Studio Underd0g Field features a unique take on a sandwich dial, where a base layer with seven layers of custom-made Super-LumiNova pigment is topped with a transparent 1mm thick sapphire crystal dial, attached via two prominent screws. This gives the dial a very cool 3D effect, as the applied numerals on the top crystal dial cast a subtle shadow on the lume dial underneath. This is something we’ve never seen a watch do before, and according to Studio Underd0g, was the result of a serious amount of R&D.
The Studio Underd0g Field comes in four colours, each with its own playful name and aesthetic. Let’s break it down. There’s the Full M00n, a classic full lume dial; and the cheekily named Steffany Blue, which pokes fun at the watch community’s current obsession with all things Tiffany Blue.
The Midnight features a more conventional black dial with lumed indices – yet it’s by no means totally conventional. During the day, you get that aforementioned 3D effect with the numerals casting shadows onto the dial – and then at night, you get a different 3D effect as the lume appears to hover above the dial, turning the Field’s trademark dial effect on its head.
Finally, you’ve got the Pink Lem0nade, which is the most unique of the four colourways. It features a pink-to-yellow gradient lume dial which Mr Benc claims is an industry-first, and is produced via an exclusive manufacturing method he’s quite keen to keep close to his chest. This one is my pick of the litter, as that colourful gradient really pops, especially in the dark.
The case
The Studio Underd0g Field’s dial is really the main event: its case is tasteful, functional and designed not to distract from the watch’s dial. It combines a slabby profile with brushed surfaces and a thin, polished bezel, which flows beautifully into its vintage-inspired boxed sapphire crystal, providing a smooth and seamless look. Not only does this sleek design help the Studio Underd0g Field slip nicely under one’s cuff, but those boxed crystal edges let you admire its dials from a wide variety of angles so you can get the full 3D effect of the numerals hovering above the dial surface.
The screw-down caseback of the Studio Underd0g Field features featuring a jellyfish design – a nod to the luminous nature of the watch rather than signalling any dive watch intentions. A thin coin-shaped crown decorated with Studio Underd0g’s zero logo completes the package.
The strap
The Studio Underd0g Field comes on a variety of different handmade leather straps courtesy of The Strap Tailor, with the Midnight, Full Mo0n and Steffany Blue paired with full grain leather straps and the Pink Lem0nade with a suede strap. Thin and light yet robust and comfortable, all four straps complement the rugged yet artsy nature of the watch and reinforce the brand’s commitment to revitalising British watchmaking.
The movement
Under the hood of the Studio Underd0g Field beats the Sellita SW210-1, a hand-wound and utterly reliable movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Compared to the Chinese-made Seagull movements which powered the brand’s Series 01 Chronograph, this Sellita movement represents a significant step-up in quality – not that the Seagull movements are in any way deficient, but let’s be real, it’s nice having a Swiss-made movement.
The verdict
We’ve used the line before when talking about this watch, but sometimes the sequel is just as good as the original. Actually, I’d argue the sequel is actually better. The Studio Underd0g Series 01 Chronograph isn’t my cup of tea, but the Series 02 Field certainly is. It’s innovative, playful and eye-catching but also suitable as a daily wearer. Most importantly, it’s totally unlike anything else on the market.
Studio Underd0g Field pricing & availability
The new Studio Underd0g Field collection is open for pre-orders via Time+Tide in the Melbourne Discovery Studio exclusively, with deliveries beginning in 2024. So if you want one, you’ll have to come in person and put your order in. The watches are currently on display in the studio, which is currently the only place in the world where you can see and try one on for yourself. Price: A$1,750, US$900, €850, £800.
| Brand | Studio Underd0g |
| Model | Field |
| Reference Number | 02FSBE (Pink Lem0nade) 02BLB (Steffany Blue) 02BEBR (Full MoOn) 02BKG (Midnight) |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 12mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 10 ATM |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Gradient pink, light blue, cream (full lume dials) Black (lume indices only) |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Strap | Taupe, black, brown or olive leather strap, steel hardware Pass-through strap, fabric, steel hardware |
| Movement | Sellita SW210-1, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Open for pre-orders exclusively in-person at the Time+Tide Discovery Studio in Melbourne |
| Price | A$1,750, US$900, €850, £800 |