Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection
Zach BlassBuilding a fantasy watch collection is a fun game many watch collectors play. With so many watches to choose from, and so many collector-personalities to make these choices, it is always interesting to see which watches people select in these horological fantasy drafts. Often, because there are so many options to choose from, parameters are set to guide the game: a specific budget, for example, or the need to pick one daily, one dress etc.
But, in the most recent episode of About Effing Time, hosts Adrian Barker, Andrew McUtchen, and George Bamford selected their three-watch collection with no ground rules other than the choices cannot be watches you already own (albeit the question was raised as to whether Andrew broke the rules by picking a vintage reference).
Adrian’s picks: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” ref. 126710BLRO, A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante
Andrew’s picks: Rolex Submariner Date “Red” ref. 1680, A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Elegante 48
George’s picks: Zenith Chronomaster Sport (rose gold on matching bracelet), Trilobe One Folle Journée, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
They did a decent job, but I am throwing down the gauntlet. I think I can do better. So, while adhering to how at least Adrian and George felt the game should be played, here is my ultimate three-watch collection of watches currently in production and not in my collection. And, unlike Adrian, I am strategically picking pieces I would all wear and rotate between.
My robust daily beater: Tudor Black Bay 54
While complete fantasy in terms of three-watch collection, I am electing to introduce a semblance of pragmatism into my selections. Regardless of how wealthy someone is, I think every collector needs a watch they would feel comfortable wearing anywhere, anytime, with no concern over whether the watch maintains a pristine look. For me, the robust and classically-sized Tudor Black Bay 54 can do just that. At least from a casual, daily sense, it is a watch you can wear with anything and can be worn while doing chors, swimming in the ocean, or grilling up some burgers on the Fourth of July. At its price-point, it is a best-in-class diver that harkens back to where the category really began – all without being stuck in the past (70-hour power reserve, T-Fit micro adjustment, anti-magnetic silicon escapement).
| Brand | Tudor |
| Model | Black Bay 54 |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 11.24mm (T) x 46mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200m |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Black and gilt |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Steel bracelet or black rubber with steel fitted end links |
| Movement | Tudor MT5400 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | AU$5,140 (Rubber strap) AU$5,440 (Bracelet) |
My office-daily perfect for my job: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Rattrapante GMT
Considering my profession, and the frequency with which I may be called upon to travel for work, you may be surprised to know that I do not have a “true” GMT watch in my collection. Let Adrian lust after the Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi”. For me, the ultimate travel watch is the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022 showstopper: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Rattrapante GMT. A robust-elegant, stainless-steel watch with impeccable aesthetics, it boasts a game-changing approach to a travel watch. On the surface, you would assume it is a handsome two-hander. Depressing the 8′ case-side pusher, however, will advance the white-metal hour hand forward in one hour increments – revealing the 18K rose gold hand hiding beneath it. Poetically, the warmth of the rose gold hand symbolises the warmth of home (with the hand representing your home time) and the white-metal hand representing your local hours. Once back home, simply depressing the pusher within the crown returns the hour hand back to the home hours position, snapping back like a reset chronograph hand. It certainly helps that the watch is an absolute conversation starter and not just another captain boring Rolex that only leaves people wondering who you bribed to score one at retail. And, because it is, at least currently, an if-you-know-you-know brand, I will not feel like I am drawing too much attention to my wrist while walking down the street abroad.
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante |
| Reference Number | PFC905-1020001-100182 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 10.7mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (platinum bezel) |
| Water Resistance | 60 metres |
| Dial | Milano blue grain d’orge guilloché |
| Crystal(s) | ARunic anti-reflective sapphire |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet and folding clasp |
| Movement | PF051, in-house, micro-rotor automatic |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, split-hour GMT |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | US$29,500 |
My “suit up” formal and decorated dress-piece: Credor Eichi II
As far as dress watches go, the Credor Eichi II is, at least tied with the Phillipe Dufour Simplicity, as my grail dress watch. Having visited the Micro-Artist Studio in Shiojiri, watching as the dial indices and Credor branding is hand-painted onto the dial, I have the utmost respect for how talented a watchmaker you need to be to create the dial, finish the precious metal case, and decorate the movement. After Dufour himself visited the studio, and shared his skills of the trade to an already incredibly talented watchmaking team, the artisans and watchmakers of the Micro Artist Studio received the nod of approval from Dufour on all fronts – his picture hanging on the wall in the studio. The porcelain of the dial, whether blue or white, is absolutely mesmerising – so pure, crisp, and clean. And, with a hand-wound Spring Drive calibre, the dial is that much more serene with the central seconds hand perfectly-smoothly gliding around the porcelain backdrop. Flipping the watch over, the movement decoration is among the best in the world with astoundingly well-executed hand-chamfers very few watchmakers in the world are capable of. I would say, for the sake of case and dial colour variety within this three-watch collection, I would go with the rose-gold model with a white dial and painted blue accents. But, the platinum-cased blue dial “Ruri” is definitely my favourite Eichi II model. Grail, absolute ‘effing grail.
| Brand | Credor |
| Model | Eichi II |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 10.3mm (T) x 45mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | 18K rose gold or platinum 950 |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Porcelain white or blue |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Leather strap with case-matching folding buckle |
| Movement | In-house Spring Drive 7R14 |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, movement-side power reserve indicator |
| Availability | Limited annual production |
| Price | US$42,000 (rose gold), US$57,000 (platinum) |
So, what do you think of my picks? Be sure to watch the upcoming live “therapy session” on the About ‘Effing Time YouTube channel this weekend, and let the gang know what you thought of their picks, my picks, and suggest your own nominations as well!