Don’t Feed the Hype: Three alternatives to the F.P. Journe Chronométre Bleu
Zach BlassThis highly requested segment of “Don’t Feed the Hype“ has been a long time coming. As a refresher for those who may not have seen previous entries in the series, my goal is to showcase readily available alternatives that provide a similar essence or merit to watches that have become increasingly unobtainable. It is my hope that these lesser discussed pieces can, in many respects, offer the same level of satisfaction as the actual watch in question. For the seventh entry into the series, I am going to undertake the tall order of offering up three F.P. Journe Chronométre Bleu alternatives you may want to consider – especially if paying three times or more over retail is not your jam.
A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin ref. 205.086
When this watch was introduced in 2018, I immediately fell in love with it. Lange is usually associated with classic German heritage aesthetics and sensibilities, but the ref. 205.086 has a youthful touch to its outer-space like vibe. While you would not be faulted for assuming it was aventurine glass, the dial is masterfully crafted from solid silver and faced with copper-blue gold flux to create its blue and starry backdrop. The white gold hands and hour indices are easily discernable on the dial, and match the white gold case that measures in at 39mm in diameter, 6.2mm in thickness, and a super approachable 45.1mm lug-to-lug across the wrist.
The ref. 205.086 not only presents an equally intriguing dial to the F.P. Journe CB, but also a wonderfully decorated in-house calibre L093.1. The L093.1 wins out in terms of power reserve, topping the Journe caliber 1304 CS and its 56 hours of power reserve with its total of 72 hours. While Lange does not use rose gold for its mainplate and bridges here, you still have the allure of their German Silver – and over time the untreated metal develops a lovely golden hue. Notable German design elements such as the hand-engraved balance cock, jewels set in chaton, blued screws, Glashutte stripes, and bevelling exhibit some of the highest finishing you can get in today’s marketplace.
Price: $24,300 USD
Credor Eichi II “Ruri” GBLT997
Among my list of personal grail picks, this Eichi II “Ruri” GBLT997 ranks among the top of the list. The original Eichi II watches with porcelain white dials are phenomenal, but when I got a chance to see this watch in the metal its unbelievable blue tone led it to become my favorite Eichi II variant. Blue is a ubiquitous tone in the watch marketplace, but not this blue – it really is unlike anything I have ever seen before. The ‘Ruri’ dial uses lapis lazuli coloured porcelain that thins out towards the extremities of the dial, resulting in a lightened outer edge. I have previously described its appearance as like “staring into the depths of space with the blue hue of the earth ringing around the inner bezel” and I stand by this description to this day. Mind-blowing colour tone aside, let’s not forget that the dial printing alone is an extraordinary feat. If you didn’t already know, the Eichi II is known for its hand-drawn hour markers and Credor branding at 12’. When you watch the artisans perform this daunting task, the naked eye cannot even register they are moving. It’s only when you watch a sped up video that you see the artisan’s hand move to draw the index.
Flip the watch over and it remains a visual feast for the eyes thanks to the in-house Spring Drive caliber 7R14, and Philippe Dufour approved level of finishing. Incredibly sharp anglange and glistening bevels mesmerise any watch nerd who encounters it, the hairline brushed bridges creating a look as clean as its dial layout. The open-worked barrel alone is a work of art, a bell flower carved into the metal with polished chamfers. A blued hand and indicator on the right bridge displays the power reserve, conveying when the wearer needs to top-off the manually wound and 60 hour power reserve caliber. As a Spring Drive caliber, the 7R14 delivers unparalleled accuracy – certified to run within +/- half a second per day. All of this, of course, is housed within a wearable 39mm 950 platinum case that’s a slender 10.3mm thick.
Price: $54,000 USD
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel
If you are going to spend over $30,000 USD on a watch, you may want to get some complication for your dollar. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel is a limited edition of 100 pieces, but some retailers may still have inventory to sell to new buyers. Its white gold case, 39mm in diameter and 10.04mm thick, will suit a wide variety of wrists. Aesthetically, the sunburst guilloched enamel dial is gorgeous to the eye. While it features complication it remains clean, making the most of the real estate above the 6′ hour index with a calendar and moon phase indicator.
Inside you have the in-house caliber 925/2, decorated with Côtes de Genève, perlage, and blued screws. Notably, this is the only automatic caliber powered watch of this list and its solid gold rotor is nicely openworked, striped, and bevelled – exhibiting fine decorations on its own while also providing a view beneath. The 925/2 offers a near weekend-proof 70 hours of power reserve, making my nominations three out of three in terms of lasting longer than the F.P. Journe CB.
Price: $35,800 USD
Honorable Mention: Vacheron Constantin Overseas
While not a dress watch, and becoming increasingly hard to source at retail, I want to briefly shout out the Vacheron Constantin Overseas in the boutique-only steel/blue combination. Why? Because often enthusiasts have drawn comparisons between their similar electric blue tones. The electric blue dial of this Overseas configuration is likely due to a black polished dial plate that is then treated with coatings of transparent blue lacquer, resulting in an eerily similar but not exactly 1:1 aesthetic as the Chronométre Bleu.
Is the Overseas getting difficult to source at retail? Yes. Is its premium anywhere near the F.P. Journe CB’s? Absolutely not. So before you drop a sum that hovers just below or above six-figures, you may want to consider the Overseas, whether at retail or secondhand, saving a lot of money in the process. Not only do you get enough of the blue vibes with the Overseas, and a far more versatile daily wearer, but potentially enough cash left over to find another dress watch to balance the scales.