WATCHES & WONDERS – Parmigiani dazzles with a ground-breaking GMT complication
D.C. HannayEditor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include videos, live pics, and our hands-on perspective. But for now let’s run through each of the new watches – here are the Parmigiani Fleurier novelties of Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022.
Scarcely a quarter century old, Parmigiani Fleurier has made some impressive inroads into the luxury watch space, even more so in the white-hot integrated bracelet sports watch category. And for 2022, they’re firing some massive shots across the bow of the industry, as you’ll soon see.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
This one has to be the star pupil in Parmigiani’s class of 2022. Kicking things off, the Tonda PF collection launched last year gets a unique complication for 2022 in the form of a clever GMT that’s challenging to execute, but dead simple to use. On the surface, it’s a clean (yet exquisite) sport luxury two-hander, but upon closer inspection, you’ll notice a mysterious pusher around 8 o’clock, and a discreet rose-gold push button set into the crown. Engage the pusher at 8 and the hour hand advances, at which point you’ll see a second, rose-gold hour hand peeking out from beneath the rhodium-plated one. Each push moves the rhodium hand forward until you’ve reached the desired hour, while the rose gold hand remains at “home time”. It all works in a similar way to a rattrapante chronograph, but instead of a second elapsed time, it’s used to track a second time zone. Simple. Brilliant. When you no longer need the second time zone, simply depress the button inside the crown, and the hand flies back to its place, above the rose gold home time hand. Such an elegant solution, and because there’s no running seconds or date window, the lovely blue barleycorn guilloché-textured dial remains free of unnecessary clutter. The stunning visible PF051 movement, razor-sharp casework and bracelet, and platinum knurled bezel are all just cream on top of this decadent horological confection.
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante pricing and availability:
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is available now. Price: CHF26,000
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante |
| Ref. Number | PFC905-1020001-100182 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm |
| Water Resistance | 60 metres |
| Case Material | Stainless steel case, platinum bezel |
| Dial | Milano blue grain d’Orge guilloché |
| Strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Movement | PF501 manufacture movement – split GMT function, 48-hour power reserve |
| Price | CHF26,000 |
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
From the visual serenity of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, we move to the ocular riot that is the Tonda PF Skeleton, an openworked sculpture rendered in a svelte 8.5mm tall rose-gold or stainless-steel case. Parmigiani Fleurier’s watchmaking virtuosity is on full display here, quite literally, and it’s easy to see how one can get lost in the hypnotic dance of the PF777 movement from both sides. The bracelet wears like a dream, too, flowing organically from the case, the facets of its brushed and polished surfaces catching the light from all angles. If you’re looking to command the room, the PF Skeleton stands out like a vintage Testarossa sailing through a gridlocked sea of beige minivans.
Tonda PF Skeleton pricing and availability:
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton is available now. Price: CHF88,000 for the rose gold model, CHF59,000 for stainless steel
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda PF Skeleton |
| Ref. Number | PFC912-2020001-200182 (18ct rose gold) PFC912-1020001-100182 (Stainless steel/platinum) |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Case Material | 18ct rose gold (PFC912-2020001-200182) Stainless steel with platinum bezel (PFC912-1020001-100182) |
| Dial | Graphite-coloured openworked with rose gold indices |
| Strap | 18ct rose gold (PFC912-2020001-200182) Stainless steel PFC912-1020001-100182 |
| Movement | PF777 automatic winding manufacture movement, 70-hour power reserve |
| Price | CHF88,000 (PFC912-2020001-200182) CHF59,000 (PFC912-1020001-100182) |
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon
Back in the day, you were doing pretty well if your band scored a gold record. To reach the level of a platinum-selling artist, however, you needed to be a superstar, and the Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon just oozes superstar energy. Nearly every visible surface, from the 42mm case, integrated bracelet, knurled bezel, sand-blasted dial, and even the guillochéd micro-rotor is crafted from the million-selling metal, lending an ultraclean, almost monochromatic look. In fact, the only visual interruption comes from the pulse of the flying tourbillon, one of horology’s own superstars. And it’s visible on both the A and the B side, so you’re never not entertained. You’re gonna want to play this one over and over.
Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon pricing and availablity:
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is available now. Price: CHF140,000
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon |
| Ref. Number | PFH921-2020001-200182 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Case Material | Platinum 950 |
| Dial | Sand-blasted platinum 950 |
| Strap | Platinum 950 bracelet |
| Movement | PF517 micro-rotor manufacture calibre with flying tourbillon, 48-hour power reserve |
| Price | CHF140,000 |
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph Big Date
The 42mm Tonda GT Chronograph Big Date brings an energy akin to other panda-dialled sport luxury heavy-hitters (such as certain Royal Oaks), but does so with a molto bello Italian flair. The subdial layout and big date apertures have been positioned in accordance to the Golden Ratio, and the contrasting Quantum Grey or Granata counters create the ideal visual punch against the silver dial. The automatic chrono movement is COSC-certified and beautifully finished to boot, with a 22ct rose-gold oscillating weight. And now, this rakish timepiece is rendered in 18-carat rose gold, with colour-matched vulcanized rubber straps. Those seeking a casually elegant weekender will no doubt be satisfied.
Tonda GT Chronograph Big Date pricing and availability:
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph is available now. Price: CHF43,100
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda GT Chronograph Big Date |
| Ref. Number | PFC903-2020001-400181 (Quantum Grey) PFC903-2020002-400181 (Granata) |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Case Material | 18ct rose gold |
| Dial | Silver and quantum grey (PFC903-2020001-400181) Silver and granata (PFC903-2020002-400181) |
| Strap | Vulcanised rubber with 18ct rose gold clasp |
| Movement | PF071 COSC-certified automatic calibre with chronograph and big date display, 65-hour power reserve |
| Price | CHF43,100 |
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph Annual Calendar
For those that prefer their weekend wear in stainless, the Tonda GT Chronograph Annual Calendar is much like the rose-gold version, but with the addition of an annual-calendar complication to the chrono functionality. You’ll get the same elevated level of fit and finish throughout, including the triangular guilloché detailing in the panda dial, as well as the same colourways. Truth be told, I’m partial to the rich burgundy of the Granata model, but trust me, there is no wrong choice.
Tonda GT Chronograph Annual Calendar pricing and availability:
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph Annual Calendar is available now. Price: CHF19,400
| Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
| Model | Tonda GT Chronograph Annual Calendar |
| Ref. Number | PFC906-1020001-400181 (Quantum Grey) PFC906-1020002-400181 (Granata) |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Silver and quantum grey (PFC906-1020001-400181) Silver and granata (PFC906-1020002-400181) |
| Strap | Vulcanised rubber with stainless steel clasp |
| Movement | PF043 automatic movement with chronograph and annual calendar, 45-hour power reserve |
| Price | CHF19,400 |