HANDS-ON: Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian
Borna Bošnjak- Parmigiani Fleurier flexes their watchmaking muscles with three platinum-cased calendar pieces
- The brand takes on the Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian calendars and executes them in their signature minimalist style
- Powering the Hijri Perpetual Calendar is the 2020 GPHG-winning calibre PF009
In the last few years, Parmigiani Fleurier might’ve garnered interest through their minimal, slim-wearing pieces with equally minimal complications like the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante or the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. The brand’s specialty for a long time, however, have been complications, more specifically, calendar complications. The calendar trio presented today assembles the best of the brand’s knowledge, creating the most complete version of a constantly varying Xiali calendar, an evolution of their 2011 Hijri table clock, now housed in a wristwatch, and finally, a watchmaking classic in a Gregorian Annual calendar.
Tonda PF Xiali Complete Calendar
We begin with a piece that’s by far the most difficult to execute perpetually. Impossible, in fact. Synchronised from a combination of solar and lunar calendar calculations, the years are repeated on a sexagesimal (word of the year for me thus far) cycle, but due to the necessity of observing astronomical phenomena, it’s impossible to create a perpetual mechanism for it. Parmigiani’s execution is based on a 12-year cycle, mechanically hard-coded and requiring a re-set at the end of the period. This incredible complication is cased in a 42mm platinum case, matched by the integrated bracelet finished with an 18k white-gold folding clasp. The dial indications include the months and their numbers, short or long months, an additional month every three years, solar terms, day numbering, moon phases, year, name of animal and alternating colours indicating Yin or Yang. This extremely complex display can be adjusted via the various hidden correctors in the case band, displayed on a platinum dial with aventurine moonphase disc.
The aforementioned complete Xiali calibre is named the PF008, offering a 54-hour power reserve, beating at 4Hz and with a height of 6.9mm. As is expected from a piece like this, the calibre is finished to a tee, with Côtes de Genève and extensive bevelling. The winding rotor is also in platinum, combining a sandblasted and polished finish. The Parmigiani Fleurier logo is front-and-centre, seemingly suspended in mid-air.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali is limited to three pieces. Price: TBC
Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
Model | Tonda PF Xiali Complete Calendar |
Reference Number | PFH982-2022302-200182 |
Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 12.2mm (T) |
Case Material | 950 platinum |
Dial | 950 platinum with 18k gold rhodium-plated markers and aventurine moonphase |
Crystal(s) | ARunic anti-reflective sapphire |
Strap | Integrated 950 platinum bracelet |
Movement | PF008, in-house automatic movement |
Power Reserve | 54 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, complete Xiali calendar |
Availability | Three-piece limited edition |
Price | TBC |
Tonda PF Hijri Islamic Perpetual Calendar
Parmigiani’s inspiration for a Hijri perpetual calendar goes back to a single pocket watch that displayed the calendar perpetually. After it was restored under their watchful eye, Parmigiani created a table clock that housed the complication in 2011, and eventually a wristwatch in 2020, winning a GPHG Innovation prize. The case, bezel and bracelet are once again in platinum, sized at 42mm in diameter and 11.2mm in height. And, just like the Xiali and the Gregorian I will touch on shortly, the dial is a sandblasted 950 platinum disc with recessed calendar indications.
The movement is the PF009, naturally in-house, offering 48 hours of power reserve and beating at 4 Hz. It keeps track of the 12 months of the Islamic calendar, 29 or 30 days in length, depending on the phase of the moon, and is identical to the GPHG-winning movement from three years ago. It’s finished with a skeletonised platinum rotor with that lovely suspended logo, against a backdrop of Geneva stripes, anglage, snailing and polished countersinks.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Islamic Perpetual Calendar is a limited edition of 25 pieces. Price: TBC
Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
Model | Tonda PF Hijri Islamic Perpetual Calendar |
Reference Number | PFH983-2020001-200182 |
Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 11.2mm (T) |
Case Material | 950 platinum |
Dial | 950 platinum with 18k gold rhodium-plated markers and aventurine moonphase |
Crystal(s) | ARunic anti-reflective sapphire |
Strap | Integrated 950 platinum bracelet |
Movement | PF009, in-house, platinum winding rotor |
Power Reserve | 48 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, Islamic perpetual calendar |
Availability | Limited edition of 25 pieces |
Price | TBC |
Tonda PF Gregorian Annual Calendar
It’s not often that watchmakers have to specify the kind of calendar they’re releasing, as it’s usually some sort of Gregorian implementation. Parmigiani’s entry is an annual calendar with a twist, as they’ve implemented a retrograde date complication to clean up the overall look, making for a legible display. The hands are all 18k rhodium-plated gold, though their polished finish somewhat helps the legibility against a similarly coloured dial. I’m always confused by the addition of a central seconds on Parmigiani’s complicated watches that are so concerned with minimalism, and it’s still present here. The aventurine precision moon phase with gold moons provides the only pop of colour to the otherwise monochromatic look, needing adjustment once every 122 years.
The PF339 calibre is an annual calendar, meaning it’ll require adjustment just once per year, not accounting for the shorter month of February. It features the aforementioned retrograde date and precision moon phase displays, beating at 4 Hz for up to 50 hours. It’s complicated, too, containing the most components out of the three watches introduced at 359. The finishing is largely similar as on the other calendar pieces, with a platinum rotor, Geneva striping and some fine anglage work.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Gregorian Annual Calendar is a limited edition of three pieces. Price: TBC
Brand | Parmigiani Fleurier |
Model | Tonda PF Gregorian Annual Calendar |
Reference Number | PFC907-2020002-200182 |
Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 11.1mm (T) |
Case Material | 950 platinum |
Dial | Sandblasted 950 platinum |
Crystal(s) | ARunic anti-reflective sapphire |
Strap | Integrated 950 platinum bracelet |
Movement | PF339, in-house |
Power Reserve | 50 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, Gregorian annual calendar |
Availability | Limited to three pieces |
Price | TBC |